Nature’s Impact on Invasive and Native Insects Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologist

Washington County Cooperative Extension Service

February 2014

Volume 10, Issue 9

Prune and Fertilize Fruit Trees

2

To Do’s February 3

A Note From Dennis 3

Recipe of The Month 4

Horticulture Calendar 4

Wheelbarrow Series Registration

5

Plant of The Month 6

Inside this issue:

HORTICULTURE

Helping You Grow!

The recent polar vortex sent temperatures plummeting and may have some significant impacts on arthropod populations for 2014. The hemlock woolly adelgid is one invasive species that seems susceptible because temperatures in the range of -4°F to -5°F can be lethal. We saw those readings over much of Kentucky, which is encouraging; however, the reproductive capability of survivors can allow populations to recover relatively quickly. The mercury has to drop substantially more to impact the emerald ash borer. A temperature of -10°F kills about 33% of exposed larvae; mortality at -20°F is almost 80%.

Additional things to remember: temperatures where the insects are

spending the winter are not the same as the surround-ing air temperature. Snow cover and exposure aspect of host trees can provide insulation and warming. Also, survival of beneficial insects is affected.

Natural enemies begin to exert some influ-ence. Wood-peckers are sig-nificant preda-tors of emerald ash borer larvae. In fact, increased woodpecker interest in ash trees is one of the early signs that the insect may be present in an area. Research (2008) in the Detroit, Michigan area indicates that woodpecker predation in study sites was keeping EAB density at low to moderate densities. Woodlot owners and forest

managers can promote woodpecker populations by leaving potential nesting trees, snags, and dead limbs on live trees when practical.

Volunteers with Pro-ject Feeder Watch in the same general area noted increases in relative num-bers of the red-bellied woodpecker and the white-

breasted nuthatch between 2002 (first detection of EAB) and 2011. Numbers of the downy and hairy woodpecker fluctuated during that time but may be trending upward. The ranges of these four spe-cies include Kentucky.

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Washington County Horticulture

Prune and Fertilize Fruit Trees

Page 2 Vo lume 10, Issue 9

Now is the right time to prune most fruit trees. Apples, plums, pears, cherries and just about any other tree fruit you can think of need a little help now before they actively start push-ing out new growth (wait and prune peaches after flow-ering) Pruning is a necessary process that will increase your yields, decrease insect and disease problems, and give you a healthy tree in the process.

When pruning fruit trees al-ways make cuts flush to the branch collar, this is the raised area with a few wrinkles at the base of each branch or limb. It is important that you don’t leave a stub or cut the limb flush with the trunk, meaning don’t cut the branch collar off. If you leave a stub it will have to rot and fall off before the collar can grow over and seal off the wound. If you cut flush to the trunk it may nev-er properly heal and you will invite insect and disease problems.

Pruning is necessarily to re-move damaged branches. Thin out the tree especially in the middle where most insects and disease prob-lems arise. This is a moist stagnant area with little air flow. By thinning the middle of your tree you will in-crease the air flow thus decrease in-

sect and disease problems.

Branches that are crossing or touching should also be removed. By crossing I mean they are close

enough that in a few years they will be rubbing or touching. Many times branches will hang lower when the fruit load is high and will cause wounds or bent areas on the stems. If you

think a limb will be a problem with a large fruit load then remove it.

Any dried “mummy” fruit still hanging on the tree should be re-moved and compost-ed or discarded. Mummies account for the largest insect and disease inoculums on most fruit trees.

If you see any canker spots from fire blight cut the limb

back down into healthy wood, but do it soon because fire blight will be active starting in mid March. If you are worried about spreading fire blight further then dip your pruning equip-ment in a 10% bleach solution each time you make a cut.

Look for insect eggs while pruning your trees. The most preva-lent will be tent caterpillar. Their eggs look like raised tar spots on the stem. The egg mass is really hard and it’s easier to prune it out than to try and scrape them off. If you want you can spray your fruit trees with dormant oil labeled for fruit trees, this will smother many of the insect eggs. Be sure to read the label and cover the branches and limbs com-pletely.

If your fruit trees haven’t grown as you wish or don’t seem like they are healthy you should have a soil test done. As a general rule most fruit trees need ¼ pound 33-0-0 or ¾ pound 10-10-10 per tree per year of age broadcast under the tree. Be sure to take it out to at least the drip line where the feeder roots are. If you maintain a lawn fertilizer pro-gram your fruit trees probably don’t need fertilizing. Over fertilizing can

be worse than under fertilizing because it will cause a lot of soft succulent growth, fewer flowers, and increased instance for insect and disease prob-lems.

A good cut healing nicely. Notice the branch collar growing over the wound.

Remove fruit mummies!

Prune out fire blight cankers.

Tent Caterpillar Eggs

To Do’s For February

A Note From Dennis

Page 3 Vo lume 10, Issue 9

Trees And Shrubs

February is a good time to prune trees and shrubs. Of course depending on bloom time.

One note of caution on pruning, if the tree or shrub is an ornamental and blooms in the spring don’t prune it until after it blooms. Fruit trees should be pruned now through the beginning of March.

If you aren’t sure what your soil needs it is always a good idea to have a soil test done. It only costs $7.00 and it will save you time and money in the long run.

Now is also a good time to force branches of flowering trees and shrubs indoors. Several varieties such as flowering quince, dogwood, forsythia, star magnolia, crabapple, flowering cherry, and pussy willow are all good candidates for forcing.

Vegetables

If you are growing your own vegetable transplants in window seals or under lights remember as a general rule it takes about six weeks for a good sized transplant to grow.

This means you can start brocco-li, cabbage, cauli-flower, kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, and other cool sea-son garden plants in mid February. These will be planted in

the garden in late March.

Again, take a soil sample now for your vegetable garden. This will keep your fertilizer bill down and your plants healthy.

If you haven’t ordered your vegetable seeds yet go ahead and do it so you will get them in plenty of time for spring.

Lawn

If your lawn needs lime it

can be applied now or anytime. You don’t need lime on a lawn unless the pH is below 6.0.

Don’t apply nitrogen now. Wait until October, November, or December. Nitrogen applications in the spring will force your grass to grow succulently and quickly causing more frequent mowing and weak shallow rooted turf which will be more susceptible to drought.

Apply phosphorus and potassium anytime of the year as your soil test indicates.

Mid February and March are the times to sow new lawns or over seed old ones. September is the best time but now is the second best.

Pre-emergent control herbicides can be applied in late February and March. This will help control annual weeds. A second application may be needed in late May or June for good crabgrass control. Don’t apply pre-emergent herbicides if you sowed or plan to sow grass seed this spring.

I hope you like the new layout of the newsletter, I thought it was time for a change. This winter has been very cold and snowy compared to the last several we have had and I think most of us are ready for spring! The girls are even complaining about the snow days especially after we explained to them that they can go now or in June! They quickly realized their summer break was being taken up by snow days of which very few have been days where there was enough snow to play in, and if it was, the wind chill was way too low to stay out for long.

I hope you have all found a few Wheelbarrow Classes you liked and have registered for them. Most clas-ses are still open but a few are getting close to the cut off numbers so make haste! It is always interesting which classes have the most interest, many of which depends on if they are free or there is a supply charge. You would think that the free ones would out pace the ones with a charge but that isn’t generally the case. I guess we all like gardening too much to not want more plants!

February Horticulture Calendar

Page 4 Volume 10, Issue 9

2 pounds fresh Kentucky Proud kale, col-lards or other greens

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup flour

2 cups milk

1 cup grated cheddar cheese

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

2 hard-boiled Kentucky Proud eggs, chopped

1/2 cup bread crumbs

2 tablespoons melted butter

Tuesday February 11th at 10:30 AM and Thursday February 13th at 6:30 PM at the Extension Office the Wheel-barrow Series Class is on Starting Seeds at Home and everyone will receive tomato seeds for FREE!

Monday February 17th at 10:AM The Springfield Green Festival Planning Committee meeting at City Hall

Thursday February 20th at 3:30 PM at the Extension Office 4H Seed Sprouters Garden Club meeting

February 25th-27th Extension Agents Out of Office for State Extension Conf.

Wash greens well, cleaning each leaf and removing stems and coarse ribs. Cook greens in enough boiling water to keep from cooking dry about 15 minutes. Drain. Melt butter. Stir in flour until smooth. Add milk. Cook over medium heat with con-stant stirring, until mixture comes to a boil. Add cheese, salt and pepper. Stir until cheese is melted. Mix in chopped hard-boiled eggs and greens. Place in a greased casserole ( 1 1/2 or 2 quart). Toss crumbs with melted butter. Sprinkle on top of greens mix-ture. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes

Plate It Up Green Casserole

The Rescheduled Master Gardener

Association Formation Meeting is Thursday March 13th at 7:30 PM Immediately Following

The Wheelbarrow Series Class!

Page 5 Volume 10, Issue 9

Feb 11 Tues FREE! 13 Thurs FREE! Mar 11 Tues FREE! 13 Thurs FREE! Mar 18 Tues $25.00 20 Thurs $25.00 Mar 25 Tues $20.00 27 Thurs $20.00 April 8 Tues FREE! 10 Thurs FREE! April 22 Tues FREE! 24 Thurs FREE! April 29 Tues $25.00 May 1 Thurs $25.00 May 13 Tues FREE! 15 Thurs FREE! May 20 Tues $20.00 22 Thurs $20.00 June 10 Tues $20.00 12 Thurs $20.00 June 24 Tues $10.00 26 Thurs $10.00 Aug 5 Tues $10.00 7 Thurs $10.00 Aug 19 Tues FREE! 21 Thurs FREE! Sept 16 Tues FREE! 18 Thurs FREE! Sept 30 Tues $20.00 Oct 2 Thurs $20.00 Oct 14 Tues FREE! Oct 16 Thurs FREE! Nov 18 Tues FREE! 20 Thurs FREE! Dec 2 Tues $25.00

4 Thurs $25.00

$5.00 x

Starting Seeds At Home Starting Seeds At Home Growing Root Vegetables In KY Growing Root Vegetables In KY Lesser Known Fruit Series-Medlar and Rose Hips Lesser Known Fruit Series-Medlar and Rose Hips Lesser Known Fruit Series-Josta and Goji Berry Lesser Known Fruit Series-Josta and Goji Berry Herb Gardening For Culinary Use Herb Gardening For Culinary Use The Other Pollinators The Other Pollinators The Exceptional World of Dahlia’s The Exceptional World of Dahlia’s Growing Vining Vegetables In Kentucky Growing Vining Vegetables In Kentucky Begonias! Begonias! The Great Hellebores The Great Hellebores Make and Take Hypertufa Planters Make and Take Hypertufa Planters Cole Crops For Fall and Winter Harvest Cole Crops For Fall and Winter Harvest Fall Cover and Green Manure Crops Fall Cover and Green Manure Crops Long Blooming Perennials Long Blooming Perennials Alternative Hardy Spring Flowering Bulbs Alternative Hardy Spring Flowering Bulbs Trees for Food and Wildlife Habitat Trees for Food and Wildlife Habitat Healthy Hollies for Kentucky Landscapes Healthy Hollies for Kentucky Landscapes Creating The Ultimate Holiday Centerpieces

Creating The Ultimate Holiday Centerpieces

Basic Registration For Any and All Classes Total From Above

Minus 10% If Paid In Full By February 15th. Total

Wheelbarrow Series Registration-Classes Meet Tuesdays at 10:30 AM and Thursdays at 6:30 PM For More Information Call 859-336-7741

211 Progress Road Springfield KY, 40069 Office 859-336-7741 Fax 859-336-7445

Email dennis.morgeson@uky.edu

February Plant of The Month - Witchhazel “Kohankie Red”

Washington County Cooperative Extension Service

We Are On The Web!!!

washington.ca.uky.edu

Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Washington-County-Horticulture/140659449317295

Late winter fragrant bloomer!

Curly petals form bright red blooms that mature to a more muted red. We have maintained stock of this beautiful, early spring bloomer from the old Kohankie Nursery in Perry, Ohio. Vigorous, healthy grower. Attractive green foliage turns golden-orange to red tones in fall. Own root plants. Size: 6' tall x 5' wide in 10 years. Plant zones: 4-8. Genus/Common Name: Hamamelis/Witchazel Light Requirements: full sun/partial shade From Dennis: Witchhazels are tough native plants (although this is most likely a cultivar) that are very forgiving and not fussy about soil types and will grow in soils that may not have opti-mum fertility. They help kick off the late winter/early spring garden with blooms and then give you beautiful fall colors to end it. Kohankie Red will make a great addition to any garden.

Information taken from Klem Songsparrow Farm Nursery: http://www.songsparrow.com/catalog/plantdetails.cfm?ID=3514&type=WOODY,&pagetype=plantdetails