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Features of Huckaback weaves

The weave is characterized by a rough surface. It is produced by floating threads in groups

arranged on a plain weave basis.

Repeat: Twice of an odd number: 10X10 With these constructions hardwearing and

extremely thick, moisture absorbing fabrics areproduced.

10X10 is the widely used repeat size. The weave can be divided diagonally into equal

parts.

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Characteristics of ordinary honeycomb:

Alternate raised and sunk diamond shapedarea

Rough surface

Weave contains long floats

Repeat size : number of ends and picksmay be equal or unequal but multiple oftwo

Normally pointed drafting systems areused.

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Main features of Brighton honeycomb:

More honeycomb cells of varying sizes. Rough surfaces

Repeat number will be multiple of four. Longest float of diamond will be one less thanhalf the number of threads in the repeat.Example: If the repeat 12X12 , then long floatwill be 12/2 -1=5

Both sides of the fabric look same as ordinaryhoneycomb.

Straight drafting system is used

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Features of Mock leno weaves1.

It is open perforated weaves like leno

fabrics.2. It is produced in the ordinary way

without special leno shafts.

3. The similarity of this weave to theHuckaback is quite obvious, but themethod of denting is different, as it isnecessary to encourage thread grouping.

4. The weave is arranged in groups ofequal or unequal sizes.

5. Even number repeat size is normally

used. Minimum repeat: 6x6

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Features of Bedford cord design:

The weave produces longitudinal warp lines withfine sunken lines between the cord

Warp face cloth Two or more cords are produced in one repeat

Ends and picks are always even number

Picks number always four. Eg: 12X4, 16X4 etc.

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Types of Bedford cord

1. Plain face Bedford cord

2. Wadded Bedford cord

3. Crepon bedford cord

4. Bedford cord arranged with alternatepicks.

5. Twill face Bedford cord

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Main features of Pique weave

A typical pique structure consists of a plainface fabric composed of one series ofwarp & weft threads and a series of back

or stitching warp threads. Continuous sunken lines or cuts i.e. cords

are run horizontally in the cloth.

One cord is produced per repeat.

Normally skip drafting system is used toproduce this weave

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Types of pique weave

There are four types of pique weaves:

1. Ordinary pique or welt structure/ Loose

back without wadding picks.

2. Weft wadded welts/ Loose back waddedwelt structure.

3. Fast back welt or pique structure

4. Waved pique structure

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Ordinary welts

The number of face picks in the width of acord is varied according to requirements,but usually the number of consecutive

picks that are unstitched should notexceed twelve.

The order of warp thread arrangement,which is always one face or ground andone stitching or back end and one faceend (g-s-g). Or in the proportion of twoface to one stitching end.

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Wadded welts

In order to increase the prominence of theunstitched portions i.e. horizontal cords ofthe cloth, it is customary to insert waddedpicks between the tight back stitching

ends and the slack face fabric. Usually the wadding weft is thicker than

the ground weft and is inserted tow picks

at a place. Thick wadding picks which are inserted in

pairs, are supplemented by single waddingpicks of the face weft.

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Wadded welts

The stitching ends are placed on aseparate beam which is very highlyweighted, where as the face ends are kept

at moderate tension.At intervals the tight stitching ends are

interwoven into the plain face texture

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Cord effect in the cloth

By using thicker yarn

By producing a. Bedford cord weave

b. Pique weave

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Sponge weave

The number of ends and picks are always equal. 10x10 is the smallest repeat size of this weave.

Straight drafting system is used to produce thisweave.

Low twisted and coarser yarns are used toproduce this fabric. So the fabric is very soft andabsorbent.

Longest float of the diamond=

1repeattheinpicksorendsofNumber

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Sponge weave

It is reversible cloth like honeycomb.

Honeycomb weave produce one cell on

both sides but in this case number ofproduced cell depends on the number ofrepeat size.

The weave is produced on the sateenbase.

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Extra warp design1. The productivity of a loom is greater

because only one series of picks isinserted.

2. No special picking box and take-up

motions are required.3. There is theoretically no limit to the

number of colors that can be introduced.

4. In the intermittent arrangement of theextra ends either spotted or stripepatterns can be formed.

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Extra warp design

Two or more warp beams may be requiredinstead of one.

Stronger yarn is required for the weave.

Extra ends are subjected to greatertension during weaving.

If the extra threads have to be removed

from the underside of the cloth, it is moredifficult and costly to cut away extra ends.

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Tubular fabric

Concept:Tubular weave is a kind of double weavewhich both selvedges are joined.

Application:Tubular fabrics are used for fire hoses,seamless bags, sacks, tubular shaped

filter, covering Cylindrical objects, artificialvessels, etc. Various dimensions can beproduced.

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Basic principle of tubular cloth production

A tubular fabric consists of two distinctface and back fabrics in which selvedgesare joined, because the shuttle flies left to

right, inserting the face pick and then fliesin the opposite direction, inserting theback pick. When the pick is inserted intothe face fabric all the threads of the backwarp should be lowered. And when thepick is inserted into the back fabric all theface warp threads should be raised.

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Seamless bag production

While producing seamless bags, theshuttle inserts two face picks passing fromleft to right and from right to left. Then

two back picks are inserted. As a result,only the left selvedges of the face andback fabrics are joined, forming thebottom of the bag. The sides of the bagare formed by making a short length ofthe double fabric and then again a wholewidth of the bag.

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Uses of tubular fabrics

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Uses of tubular fabrics

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(1) Selection of base weaves. The face weave and backweave should be same. And the structure should besimple. The following weaves can be used as the bases:plain weave,2/2(2) hopsack,2/2 weft ribs, twill, etc. Theshift in weft direction should be constant, otherwise, the

selvedges are not evenness. (2) Arrangements of face and back threads.

Arrangements in warp direction should be 1:1; and inweft direction must be 1:1, otherwise, the selvedges cannot joined properly.

(3) Calculation of the total number of ends. To achieve aperfect continuation of the weave from face to back andvice versa, certain rules for the calculation of the totalnumber of ends in fabric have to be observed.

Main points of designing a tubular fabric

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Stitched double cloths

Double cloths are fabrics in which thereare at least two series of warp and weftthreads each of which is engagedprimarily in producing its own layer of

cloth. The two layers may be only loosely

connected together. Each layer may bereadily identified as a different entity or

they may be so intricately stitched or tiedtogether that they appear to form acomplex single structure.

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Purpose of this construction

For the improvement of the thermalinsulation value of a fabric.

The capacity for producing intricate effects

dependent upon either color or structuralchanges.

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Classification of double cloth

1. Self stitched double cloth2. Center stitched double cloth

3. Double cloth stitched by thread

interchange.4. Double cloth stitched by cloth

interchange

5. Alternate single ply and double plyconstruction

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Cloths Made in the Plain Weave

A partial list of plain weave fabrics are as follows:

1. Cottons: Gingham, percale, voile, pliss crepe, batiste, calico,chambray, cheese-cloth, chintz, crash, cretonne, muslin sheeting,cambric, lawn, organdy, shantung, unbleached muslin, scrim,buckram, canvas, flannelette.

2. Linens: Handkerchief linen, art linen, rash toweling, cambric,

dress 3. Nylons and other man-made fibered fabrics: Organdy,

lingerie crepe, shantung, taffeta, shirting ( many of theseconstructions are also made in blends with natural yarns and withother man-made fibered yarns).

4. Rayons and/or acetates: Taffeta, georgette, flat crepe,

seersucker, 5. Silks. Taffeta, organza, voile, Canton crepe, crepe de Chine, flat

crepe, chiffon, shantung, silk shirting, broad cloth, China silk. 6. Wools. Homespun, challis, crepe, batiste, some tweeds, voile.