FEATURE ARTICLE The 1997 Mitsubishi...

1.The Eclipse is a sporty and popular car. The Eclipse is not a difficult carto service except for a couple tricks. This car uses the standard Mitsubishikeyway. The code series is 5000-7679. The key is a double sided and has 8cuts on each side with a possible four depths. The car has dual frontAirbags. The door lock linkage is horizontal. (Continued on page 32)

The 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse ...........................................page 1

Director's Page ..................................................................page 3

The 1997 Nissan 200SX ...................................................page 4

Computer Software for the Automotive Locksmith ..........................................page 13

Servicing the Merkur Chubb Locks ...........................page 15

The 1997 Dodge Dakota ................................................page 22

The Official Publication of the

NATIONAL LOCKSMITHAUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION™

Winter1996-97

TM

The 1997Mitsubishi Eclipse

By Michael Hyde

FEATURE ARTICLE

V.A.T.S., P.A.T.S., M.A.T.S. andPASSLOCK, it’s all becoming veryconfusing. What ever happened to thegood old days when General Motorsvehicles used either an A, B, C, D, E,H, J, or K key? And Ford used onekeyway for the ignition (on almost allmodels) and one keyway for the trunk

(on almost all models)? Like the oldsaying goes, that was then, this is nowand anit-thef systems are here to stay.

With the introduction of V.A.T.S.,M.A.T.S., PASSLOCK and P.A.T.S.over the years, it’s a bit more difficultto keep track of it all. Although noneof the systems mentioned are really

that difficult to service, keeping trackof what is used where, is!

To ease the pain a little, here is areference list of the anti-theft ignitionsystems currently being used onBuick, Cadillac, Chevrolet,Oldsmobile, Pontiac, GMC Trucks,Ford, Lincoln and Mercury.

DIRECTOR’SPAGE

GREG MANGO

MODEL YEAR SYSTEM CODE SERIES

BUICKCentury 1997-1/2 V.A.T.S. 10 - cutLaSabre 1992 - 1995 V.A.T.S. JKPark Avenue 1991 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKReatta 1990 V.A.T.S. ABNPReatta 1991 V.A.T.S. JKRegal 1994 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JKRegal 1997-1/2 V.A.T.S. 10 - cutRiviera 1990 V.A.T.S. ABNPRiviera 1992 - 1993 V.A.T.S. JKRiviera 1995 - 1997 V.A.T.S. 10 - cutRoadmaster 1992 - 1993 M.A.T.S. JKRoadmaster 1994 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKSkylark 1996 - 1997 PASSLOCK 10 - cutCADILLACAllante 1989 - 1993 V.A.T.S. ABVWDeVille 1990 V.A.T.S. ABVWDeVille 1991 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKEldorado 1991 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKFleetwood 1993 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKBrougham 1993 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKSeville 1989 - 1990 V.A.T.S. NPSU/ABCDSeville 1991 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKCHEVROLETAstro Van 1993 - 1995 M.A.T.S. JKBlazer 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKCamaro 1989 - 1990 V.A.T.S. ABNPCamaro 1991 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JKCaprice 1992 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKCaprice 1995 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKCaprice Wagon 1995 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKCaprice Wagon 1992 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKCavalier 1996 - 1997 PASSLOCK 10 - cutCorvette 1986 - 1990 V.A.T.S. ABNPCorvette 1991 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKG10, G20, G30, VAN 1993 - 1995 M.A.T.S. JKImpala 1992 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKImpala 1995 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKLumina 1994 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JK

MODEL YEAR SYSTEM CODE SERIES

Monte Carlo 1994 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JKSafari Van 1993 - 1995 M.A.T.S. JKS-10 Pick-Up &C/K Pick-Up 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKSuburban 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKTaho 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKYukon 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKOLDSMOBILEAchieva 1996 - 1997 PASSLOCK 10 - cutAurora 1995 - 1997 V.A.T.S. 10 - cutCustom Wagon 1992 M.A.T.S. LMCutless Supreme 1994 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JKEighty-Eight/Royal 1992 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JKNinety-Eight 1991 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKToronado 1990 V.A.T.S. ABNPToronado 1991 - 1992 V.A.T.S. JKPONTIACBonneville 1992 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JKFirebird 1991 - 1997 V.A.T.S. JKFirebird GTA 1988 V.A.T.S. NPSU Trans Am 1989 - 1990 V.A.T.S. ABNPGrand Am 1996 - 1997 PASSLOCK 10 - cutGrand Prix 1994 - 1996 V.A.T.S. JKSunfire 1996 - 1997 PASSLOCK 10 - cutGMC TRUCKFull Size Pick-Up 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKFull Size Van 1993 - 1996 M.A.T.S. JKJimmy 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKS-15 Pick-Up 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKSafari Van 1993 - 1995 M.A.T.S. JKSonoma 1993 - 1994 M.A.T.S. JKFORDExpedition-ALT 1997 P.A.T.S. 0001X-1706XMustang 1996 P.A.T.S. 0001X-1706XTaurus 1996 - 1997 P.A.T.S. 0001X-1706XLINCOLNMark Series 1997 P.A.T.S. 0001X-1706XMERCURYSable 1996 - 1997 P.A.T.S. 0001X-1706X

National Locksmith Automobile Association Winter 1996-97 3

By Michael Hyde

The 1997 Nissan 200SX

OPENING

1. The new 200SX is also very similar to the Nissan Sentra. There are slight differences but not much.The 200SX uses the standard Nissan keyway and the code-series X0001-8000. There are four depthsand eight cuts.

2. Use two good wedges and a reverse slidelinkage tool. This particular tool was purchasedfrom Tech-Train.

3. A view of the horizontal linkage rods. The toplinkage rod is the locking button rod.

4 Winter 1996-97 National Locksmith Automobile Association


4. The tool being moved into position. Notice to the right of the toolthe metal security channel for the locking linkage rod.

5. The tool is now pushing upon the rod as it connects to thebell crank (or) pivot point.

IGNITION SERVICING

6. The ignition lock assembly is concealed by atwo piece plastic shroud. As with almost allNissan’s there is no active retainer for easyremoval of the ignition cylinder. Thereforremoval of the entire lock assembly is necessary.

7. First, pop-off the plastic trim around the frontof the ignition face.

8. There are four phillips head screws that must beremoved to separate the plastic two piece shroud.


9. Once the screws are removed, you can unsnapthe plastic shroud and remove it.

10. Making sure the battery is disconnected, youcan now remove the shear-head bolts. The shear-head bolts can be removed by drilling a hole in thecenter of the bolt and using a “EZ-OUT” to unscrewthe bolt. Another method would be to use a diegrinder (Dremel) to make a slot in the bolt head andunscrew it with a flat-blade screwdriver. Evenanother method would be to use a Awl or long PinPunch to tap on the edge of the bolt, at an angle, inorder to unscrew the bolt.

11. The ignition lock assembly is pictured.12. There are two roll pins, one on each side ofthe lock that need to be removed.


13. Once the two pins are removed you can thenpull off the lock face cap.

14. The cylinder can now be removed. Be carefulof the spring and ball bearing that sit on thebuzzer lever.

15. A view of the cylinder plug removed from the cylinder housing.The plug contains all eight tumblers.

16. The cylinder plug has twosmall actuators that fit into it,one on each side. Be carefulnot to lose them.

17. On this model, the door lockcylinder is not part of the outsidehandle assembly.

DOOR LOCK SERVICING


19. Remove the phillips head screw in the doorpull cavity.

18. A view of the inside door panel which mustbe removed.

22. Next, There are two fasteners on the frontedge of the panel that need to be removed.

21. The trim ring being removed.

20. Do not remove the screw in the center of theinside door release. There is a trim ring thatsnaps on top of the release housing.


23. There is also two fasteners on the rear edgeof the panel that need to be removed.

24. There are four phillips head screws on thebottom of the panel that must be removed.

25. A view of the door with the panel removed.Remove the thin plastic access hole covers andinsert a 10mm socket to take off the nut thatholds the anti-theft metal arm in place.

26. Now you can insert a large screwdriver to slide off the metal horseshoe clip. The Nissan door clipcan be a tough one to remove.

TRUNK LOCK SERVICING

27. To disassemble the door lock you mustremove the face cap. Replacement caps areavailable from ASP, part # P-16-205.

28. Next, remove the tailpiece, it is held on by a“C” clip.

29. The lock cylinder disassembled. 30. The door lock cylinder plug contain all eighttumblers.

31. To service the trunk lock it will be necessary to remove thepainted trim cover that sits on top of the lock cylinder and blocksthe cylinder from being removed.

32. There are six plasticfasteners that must beindividually unsnapped. Don’ttry to just pull up on the panelas this action can cause thepanel to crack. They must beunsnapped from the inside.


33. There are also six 8mm nuts that have to beremoved.

34. Now that the fasteners have been removedthere is access to the lock cylinder.

36. To disassemble the cylinderyou must remove the face cap.The cap must re-used.

35. The lock cylinder is held in place by two 10mm bolts.



39. The trunk lock cylinder contains all eighttumblers.

Method 1. Check owners manual for code, written inby the dealer.

Method 2. Disassemble trunk cylinder, and decodewafers to make master key.

Method 3. Disassemble door cylinder, and decodewafers to make master key.

Method 4. Impression locks.

Code Series: X 0001-8000

Key Blank: Ilco X123/DA25, X124/DA28,X197/DA30, X210/DA31; Silca DAT13, DAT14,DAT15, NSN11

Reed Codes: 07-03-096

HPC Card: XF67, CF67

M.A.C.S: 2

Shoulder to center of first cut: .118

Cut to Cut: .085

Depths: 1=.276, 2=.256, 3=.236, 4=.217

37. The tailpiece must also be removed. It is heldin place by a “C” clip.

38. The trunk lock cylinder disassembled.

MAKING FIRST KEY


Computer Software for theAutomotive Locksmith

COD - Codes On DiskOne of the requirements for

automotive work is a goodcode system. Code books aredeclining in popularity ascomputers have becomecommonplace. Two reasons forthis are the reduced bulk andthe quicker informationavailable from code software.

Blackhawk’s Codes on Disk(COD) is ideal software forquick code retrieval. Theprogram starts quickly and isimmediately ready for a code.Lookup is very fast, rangingfrom four to six seconds on a286 processor to almostinstantaneous on a Pentium.

Every series containing thecode is displayed so that youcan choose the one that applies.For most series, the descriptionincludes the range of years thata series has been used. If morethan one blank is used for thesame series, the descriptionswill help you to pinpoint thecorrect blank by listing specificmodels separately.

What kind of information ispresented? Of course you willsee the cuts on the key - up tofour blanks are also shown -most commonly Curtis, Ilco,S i l c a , a n d S t r a t t e c , i fa p p l i c a b l e . F o r c u t t i n ginformation you can set theprogram to default to yourfavorite code machine such as:H P C 1 2 0 0 ; H P C p u n c h ;

Framon; A-1 Pak-a-Punch;Curtis clipper; Exacta; DC-300;Codemax DSD number; ITL(sends space/depth and cuts tothe machine); Baxter depthkeys as well as give micrometermeasurements.

No matter which you choosefor the default, every otherspace/depth choice is only onekeystroke away. So if you use aFramon or 1200 in your shopbut a clipper in your van youcan relay to your outsideserviceman which kit orcarriage to use.

If you want a paper trail, justsend the information to yourprinter and it will print a shortnote telling you cuts, key blank,and space/depth information.

Done with one key and readyfor the next? So is Codes OnDisk. There are no extra steps tohold you back, just type in thenext code and continue.

No Keyblank? Use KBX - Key BlankCross-Reference.

What if you don’t have theblank needed? Well, maybeyou do after all, you just didn’tknow it. KBX: Key Blank Cross-References has virtually everyblank available to the NorthAmerican Locksmith, andmany obsolete numbers aswell. And since it is updatedtwice a year, it’s easy to keepup with new blanks as they areissued.

If you are looking for a blankthat you might not have, KBXwill show you all knownsubstitutes for a given blank,with same or different bowshapes, and various shanklengths so that you cansubstitute when necessary. Ifyou are looking for an X121,you’ll find that you cansubstitute a DC-3, or an MIT2R,or a longer-shank TOY29, andso on. Some locksmiths cutdown their inventory enoughwith this program that thesavings pays for all theupdates! The wealth ofinformation and the time savedare just bonuses.

You can even set up theprogram to point to the hookon your keyboard. This isuseful not only for speedy keyduplicating but also duringcode retrieval. One locksmith Iknow uses this feature alongwith his ITL machine to save aconsiderable amount of time.When a customer gives him acode number on the phone, hecan look it up in COD, find theblank on his board using KBX,and cut the key on his ITLbefore the customer is off thephone!

No Code Number? Use “FILL”

On many cars the trend is toleave the code number off mostor all of the locks. This canleave you in a situation where it


might be easy to get one lock offthe car and decode it, but itdoesn’t have a full set of wafers,so you have only part of the key.Thus was born FILL: Fill theCombination. Covering mostcars for the past 25 years andmore, it lets you first choose thecar or code series, then indicatewhat cuts you know, and then itgoes to work. Blackhawkdeveloped the program to takethose known cuts, match themagainst the combinationsactually used in the code series,and produce a progression chartfor use on the car.

Even on a slow computer,FILL quickly produces a list ofall possible ways to completethe combination. Since it usesthe actual code series, it showsonly legitimate combinations,not everyone possibilitywhether used or not.

At this point you can decidehow feasible it is to progress thekey. If there are only a fewpossibilities, progression is fast.If many, you know that it mightbe worthwhile to look for

another lock with other wafersbefore proceeding. FILL canalso be very useful in the shopto show a customer why thedoor lock he brought you isn’tenough to make a key over thecounter.

If you decide to progress thekey, a chart is quickly producedfor your use. You can print itout and check off each key asyou try it.

Impress the CustomerSometimes a dealer wants the

code number for the key youjust originated for his car. We allknow that by recording theblank and cuts we can easilyreproduce the key, butsometimes your customerwould prefer the code number.If you can provide it, you havea better chance of beingremembered the next time yourcustomer has a problem.

RDA: Reverse Domestic Autowill take the cuts from the keyand give you back all codenumbers leading to that key. Itcovers Ford, Chrysler, and GM

models of domestic origin. Allyou have to do is type in thecombination and it then goesthrough its code lists and showsyou the code(s).

Historical NoteKBX, FILL, and RDA were

each the first programs of theirrespective types. COD hasinnovations that have yet to bematched by any other codesoftware.

All are incredibly easy to use,and very fast. Each is highlyrecommended for theautomotive locksmith.

For information on anyBlackhawk Products contact:

Blackhawk Products

25913 County Road T.5

Dolores, Colorado 81323

Phone: 970-882-7191

Fax: 970-882-7228

E-mail:[email protected]

Web site:

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/blkhawk

By Michael Hyde

Servicing the Merkur Chubb Locks

1. Original factory keys had a plastic code tag attached to the side.

The Merkur Scorpio used aunique keyway in its first year inproduction, before switching to theTibbe system. Only the Scorpiohad the High Security keyway.The Merkur line lasted only fouryears and had only two models.The models were the “Scorpio”and the “XR4Ti.” The cars weresold from Lincoln-MercuryDealerships. The XR4Ti was soldfrom 1985 to 1989. The Scorpio wassold from 1987 to 1989. The Chubbname is a popular one on locksmade in Europe and a Chubbkeyway can be found on somesafes in Europe.

When you buy a door cylinderor ignition cylinder from the ASPor the dealer, it may come as aservice package, includingtumblers. However, it will notcome with instructions on how toassemble it. This can be a reallytough job for anyone.

The Chubb key is a unique one.The key has ten cuts on each sideand has different bitting on eachside, but the key will work the lockno matter which way you insert it.There are five depths.

2. A closer look at the bitting.

3. The tumblers used are definitely different thanmost we have seen before. One side of the tumbler isdifferent than the other. Each cut on one side of thekey must have a matching cut on the other, they mustadd up to six. So if you have a #5 depth on one side,the other side in the same position must be a #1depth. If you have a #2 depth on one side than youmust have a #4 depth on the opposite side. Thedepths are determined by which way you slide theminto the tumbler tube.



4. A view of the ignition lock cylinder. Theentrance for the key looks something like a Bowtie. The cylinder also uses an active retainer.

5. A code is stamped on the side of the lockcylinder housing. The codes are not publishedbecause to determine the cuts you need to do alittle math, which I will explain later.

6. To disassemble the lockcylinder you must first removethe clip on the rear of the lock.Use a pair of “tru-arc” pliers.

7. There is a retaining ring thatmust removed from the grooveit sits in.

8. Use a small flat head screw-driver to accomplish this. Acloser look at the retaining ring.

9. The tumbler tube can now be removed. Noticethe position as it is being removed. This will beimportant when you reinstall it.

10. The ignition tumbler tube assembly. Noticethe position of the ring that sits on the rear ofthe tube.


11. The only thing left in thehousing is the dust shutterassembly. The shutter willslide out.

12. The dust shutter has only one moving part. The little actuatorslides into the dust shutter housing, as positioned.

13. There are plastic spacers used between each tumbler. Thereare five tumblers and four plastic spacers. The tumblers andspacers are then followed by metal spring tension spacer and thena round plastic keeper. The end of the tumbler tube is curledslightly at the end, this is done at the factory. Once you load all thepieces in the tumbler tube, it will be necessary to gently force theplastic keeper in place.

14. A view of the tumbler tube.To code the lock correctly,make sure the combinationyou want is loaded in the tube,the side that is pictured up..The stamping on the tumblermust be placed in the tube soit is facing you as you load it.

15. Another point to rememberis that the plastic spacers mustbe placed in the tumbler tubethe same way as to have thelargest opening to allow thekey to pass through them. 16. The ignition lock cylinder assembly is shown.

17. The door lock is pictured.There is a plastic trim cover on thefront of the lock. The trim coverdoes not give you access to thecylinder. The components areremoved from the rear of the lock.

18. There is a plastic tailpieceon this lock. The code numberis stamped into the plastic ofthe tailpiece.

19. Remove the “C” clip andslide off the tailpiece. Be sureto mark the tailpiece andhousing to determine whichway to re-install it. In this casethe cylinder spring came offwith the tailpiece.

20. To disassemble the cylinderyou will need to remove thewhite plastic sprocket on therear of the lock housing. Theplastic sprocket is a one waytype, meaning you will have tobreak it to remove it. ASP sellsreplacements sprockets, theirpart number is P-18-242.

21. A view of the back of the lockwith the sprocket removed.


22. The tumbler tube can now be removed, as shown.


23. The dust shutter assemblyis a one piece unit.

24. A view of the tumbler tube.The tumbler tube consists of 5combination tumblers, 4plastic spacers, metal springtension spacer and then around plastic keeper.

25. As with the other cylinderson the car, the door lock cylindertumbler tube is curled slightly atthe end, this is done at thefactory. Once you load all thepieces in the tumbler tube, it willbe necessary to gently force theplastic keeper in place. Thestamping on the tumbler mustbe placed in the tube so it isfacing you as you load it.

26. A view of the door cylinder tumbler tube and components in theorder in which they were removed from the tube.

27. A closer look atthe metal springtension spacer andthe round plastickeeper.

28. The door lockcylinder disassembled.The white plasticsprocket is missingfrom the picture.


30. The plastic tailpiece is held on by a “C” clip.29. The trunk lock cylinder is pictured.

31. Once the tailpiece is removed, you will thenneed to use a pair of “tru-arc” pliers to remove thetru-arc ring. The tru-arc ring is under spring tension.

32. The plastic sleeve and spring can now beremoved. The cylinder can also be removed.

33. To remove the chrome cap off of the tumbler assembly you will have to remove themetal keeper. I have done a few of these and I can always tap the cylinder against somewood, for the keeper to just fall out.


35. A view of the trunk lock disassembled.

34. A view of the tumbler tube. The tumbler tubeconsists of 5 combination tumblers, 4 plasticspacers, metal spring tension spacer and then around plastic keeper. As with the other cylinderson the car, the door lock cylinder tumbler tube iscurled slightly at the end, this is done at thefactory. Once you load all the pieces in thetumbler tube, it will be necessary to gently forcethe plastic keeper in place. The stamping on thetumbler must be placed in the tube so it is facingyou as you load it.

36. When reassembling thecomponents make sure you placethe return spring in its properplace. The end of the spring with a90 degree bend in it, goes into asmall hole in the metal ringattached to the shaft of thetumbler tube assembly. The otherend of the spring that is pointedup, goes into a slot that is milledinto the chrome cap.

The 1997 Dodge Dakotaby Michael Hyde

Photograph 1. The new Dakota hasbeen updated to looksimilar to the popularDodge Ram full sizepick up. The newDakota uses animproved securityignition and uses thewide body tumblers inall locks. The keyway isstandard Chryslerproduct, double sidedkey with seven cuts oneach side and fourpossible depths. Thereis no glove box lock onthis model. Both doorlocks and the ignitioncontain all the tumblers.



Photograph 4. Insert the tool in the door cavityand pull up on the linkage rod to unlock the truck.

OPENINGOPENING

Photograph 2. This model has vertical linkage. Start outwith a couple of good wedges and a hooked type tool.

Photograph 3.Type of opening

tool we used wasbought from

High-Tech Tools.

IGNITION LOCK SERVICINGIGNITION LOCK SERVICING

Photograph 5. This truck has dual frontAirbags. The column uses a two pieceplastic shroud that covers the ignitionlock assembly. Removal of the Airbag isnot necessary to service the ignition lock.

Photograph 6. To remove the plastic shroud,you must remove the three #20 Torx screws.


Photograph 7. A view of the ignition lock cylinder andignition control module. The control module can beremoved and replaced easily by simply removing thethree #25 security Torx screws. Replacing the modulewould be necessary if you had a broken key stuck inthe ignition or if the ignition stop operating correctly.Average cost of the module is $35.00.

Photograph 8. A view of the side of the ignition lockcylinder and the active retainer. Insert an working keyand rotate it to the “ON” position and depress theretainer. The cylinder will slide straight out. Earliermodels you had to turn back the cylinder to the “OFF”position for removal.

Photograph 9. The ignition lock cylinderremoved. For 1997 Models they have introduced

an interlocking tailpiece. There is also a anti-theft pin that sticks out the back of the lock. Ifthe lock was forced out of the control module,

the truck could not be started.

Photograph 10. To disassemble the lock insert a workingkey and rotate it back to the “ACC” position. Depress thedetent pin and rotate the cylinder even further. The cylinderplug should now slide out.


Photograph 11. There is asmall buzzer actuator that can easily be lost. Becareful when disassembling the lock cylinder.

Photograph 12.The detent pinand spring. Thedetent pin is whatgives you thatfeel that the lockis in the “OFF”position. Thedetent can fall outwhen you removethe cylinder plug.

Photograph 13. The ignition cylinder plug contains allseven tumblers. These tumblers are the newer widebody tumblers. The chance of tumbler breakage has

been minimized. This was a large concern onprevious models with the smaller weaker tumblers.

Photograph 14. The door lock cylinder is held into theoutside door handle by a wire clip.

DOOR LOCK SERVICINGDOOR LOCK SERVICING

Photograph 15. The door panel must be removed toservice the door lock.


Photograph 16. To remove the doorpanel, first remove the#25 Torx located bythe door pull.

Photograph 17.Remove the

phillips headscrew that is

recessed at thetop of the

panel.

Photograph 18. There is a Torx screw that need to beremoved behind the inside door release handle.

Photograph 19. There are two screws on the bottom ofthe panel that need to be removed. The first one islocated on the forward bottom section of the panel.

Photograph 20. The other one is located on thebottom rear section of this panel.


Photograph 21. Now that the screw fasteners havebeen removed the panel can be taken off. Thepanel uses lock-in hooks as the remainingfasteners. Lift up on the panel to remove.

Photograph 22. Disconnect the linkage rod from the panel.

Photograph 23. A view of the door with the panel removed.

Photograph 24. To make it easier to getthe lock out you might want to removethe two screws that hold the rearwindow track in place. You don’t haveto remove the window track, just moveit to the side.


Photograph 25. Next remove the rubber plug to gainaccess to the rear handle nut. Remove the rear nutand the front nut. Use a 8mm socket. Don’t forget todisconnect the lock cylinder linkage rod.

Photograph 26. The handle can now be moved awayfrom the door enough to slide the cylinder retainingclip off and slide the cylinder out of the handle.

Photograph 27. This particular model has electronicswitch mounted to the rear of the cylinder. Be carefulwhen removing the switch as it is made of plastic.

Photograph 28. The door lock cylinderand lock retaining clip.


Photograph 29. To disassemblythe cylinder, you must firstremove the face cap. Save thecap as it is re-usable. All thetumblers can be seen from thelarge cut-out for the drain hole.

Photograph 30. The tailpiece is held to the cylinder by a“C” clip.

Photograph 31. With the face cap removed you cansee the shutter assembly. The shutter assembly snapinto place, into the plug.

Photograph 32. The door lockcylinder disassembled.


Photograph 33. The doorlock cylinder plugcontains all seventumblers. The door lockalso uses the newer widebody tumblers.

Photograph 34. The keying kit is made by Strattec and is partnumber 702962 or 701417.

Method 1. Check owners manual for codes,written in by the dealer.Method 2. Use a tool called an ‘EEZ-Reader’ todetermine the cuts in the door for positions 1through 7. You will then have all the cutsnecessary for a complete key.Method 3. Use Try-Out KeysMethod 4. You must remove a door cylinderand decode it. Once you have those seven cuts,you will then have all the cuts necessary for acomplete key.Code Series: L0001-3580Key Blank: Ilco Y157 / Silca CY22Reed Codes: 11-05-016HPC 1200CM #: X60M.A.C.S.: 2 First cut: .297 (from tip)FRAMON: Use Ford 5 pin clipand set for first cut @ .052 Cut to Cut: .092

MAKING FIRST KEYMAKING FIRST KEY

Ignition & Doors1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Depths: 1=.340, 2=.315, 3=.290, 4=.265

OPENING

FEATURE ARTICLE

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse (Continued from front cover)

Photograph 2. The car can be opened using a slidelinkage tool and a couple of good wedges.

OPENING

Photograph 3. Attach the opening tool to the rodshown. Bind the tool to slide the linkage rod towardsthe front of the car.

IGNITION LOCK SERVICINGIGNITION LOCK SERVICING

Photograph 4. Toservice the ignitionon this car is simplesince it utilizes anactive retainerignition cylinder.



Photograph 5. Remove the three Philip headsscrews from the underside of the plastic two piececolumn shroud. Then gently unsnap the shroud.

Photograph 6.Insert an workingkey and rotate it

to the “ACC”position anddepress the

retainer to slideout the ignition

cylinder.

Photograph 7. The ignition lock cylinder.

Photograph 8.To service this

cylinder youwill need toremove the

“tru-arc” ringon the rear ofthe cylinder.

Insert theworking key

and slide outthe cylinder

plug.

Photograph 9. When working with the cylinder plug becareful not to lose the buzzer activator, as it can easilyfall out.


Photograph 10. The ignition lock disassembled.

Photograph 11. The plug contains all

eight tumblers.

DOOR LOCK SERVICINGDOOR LOCK SERVICING

Photograph 12. The door lock cylinder is part of thedoor handle assembly and the cylinder is held inplace by a clip.

Photograph 13. The inside door panel is shown.


Photograph 14. You must remove the doorpanel to service the door lock. There are twoscrews on the front of the panel and two onthe rear of the panel that must be removed.

Photograph 15. There is a screwhidden under the trim cover for

the door panel pull cavity. Removethe screw.

Photograph 16. Pull outward onthe inside door handle to see thephillips head screw that has tobe removed.


Photograph 17. There is a screw hidden behind theplastic cover for the mirror mounting access. Push inthe center plug of the plastic retainer about a 1/4”.Now remove the plastic retainer. Remove the cover.

Photograph 18. Remove the last panel screw.

Photograph 19. The door panel is held to the door bythe standard plastic push in style clips. Remember todisconnect the wiring going to the door panel.

Photograph 20. A view of the door with the panelremoved.

Photograph 21. To remove this lock it is necessary toloosen the 10mm handle bolt above the lock cylinder.The door glass blocks direct access to the bolt. Youwill need to loosen the bolt with a 10mm wrench.


Photograph 22. Next, remove the other handle 10mmbolt on the side of the door.

Photograph 23. There should now be enough room toslide the lock cylinder out of the handle. Disconnectthe electronic switch that sits on the rear of the lock.

Photograph 24. There is a plastic spacer ring that sits infront of the lock cylinder while the cylinderis mounted to the handle. Make sure thespacer ring is in place before you re-installthe cylinder to the handle.

Photograph 25. The passenger door cylinder is the only

cylinder with a code stamped on it. Whileother cylinders will have numbers stamped

on them, those numbers are eitherproduction codes or part numbers.


Photograph 28. The door lock disassembled is shown.

Photograph 29. The door lock cylinder plugcontains all eight tumblers.

Photograph 30. All Mitsubishi Eclipse hardtop models are Hatchbacks.

Photograph 31. To service the rear hatch lock cylinderyou must first unsnap the center plastic trim panel. The

panel is made of thin plastic and uses very strong clips. Ihave serviced a couple of these models and on both I

cracked the trim panel. Wholesale cost for this panel isaround $25.00. Be careful when removing the panel.

Photograph 26. The tailpiece must be removed. It isheld in place by a “C” clip. Photograph 27. The face cap must be removed. It is

re-usable.

HATCH LOCK SERVICINGHATCH LOCK SERVICING


Photograph 32. With the panel removed you will need

to remove the two 10mm bolts thathold the latch mechanism in place.

Photograph 33. The outside plasticname plate/tail lightcenter piece must beremoved to get to thelock cylinder. It trimplate is held in byeight 8mm nuts.

Photograph 34. The trim plate beingremoved.


Photograph 37. The tumblers can be seen through the large drainhole area.

Photograph 38.To disassemble

the lock cylinder,remove the “C”

clip that holds onthe tail piece.

Photograph 35. The rear hatch lockcylinder can removedby taking off thehorseshoe metal clip.

Photograph 36. The lock cylinder ispictured.

Photograph 39. The face cap must also be removed, it isre-usable.


Photograph 40. The rear hatch lock

disassembled.

Photograph 41. The cylinder plug containsall eight tumblers.

THE GLOVE BOXTHE GLOVE BOX

Photograph 42. The glove box lock is held to the compartmentdoor by two phillips head screws.


Photograph 44. With the tabs straightened out,

you can slide off the front cover.

Photograph 45. Be careful of the spring loaded pushbuttons that open the latch.

Photograph 46. A view of the glove box lock pushbuttons and springs.

Photograph 43. To disassemble the lock youmust straighten the four brasstabs on the rear of the lock.


Photograph 47. The lock cylinder plugis now ready to beremoved. It isimportant to mark theplug and housing foreasier re-assembly.

Photograph 48. The cylinder plug

contains fourcombination tumblers

and a valet tumbler.Combination tumblers

are in positions fivethrough eight. The

valet tumbler rides onthe tip of the key. Ona master blank there

is a number twodepth pre-cut for the

valet. On a valet blankthere is a number

four depth pre-cut, toprevent the valet key

from bringing thevalet tumbler to the

shear line.

Photograph 49. Once the cylinder plug hasbeen removed there isnothing to keep the two latchlugs in the housing. Becareful you do not let themfall out.


Method 1. Check owners manual for code, written in by the dealer.

Method 2. Remove passenger door cylinder and read code stamped on lock.

Method 3. Disassemble door cylinder or trunk cylinder, and decode wafers to make master key.

Method 4. Disassemble the glove box and decode the tumblers. The glove box contains 4 tumblers inpositions 5 through 8. Use Blackhawk Computer program called “FILL” to progression the remaining cuts.

Method 5. Impression locks.

Code Series: E5000-7679

Key Blank: Ilco X176/MIT1 / Silca MIT8

Reed Codes: 9-02-280

HPC Card: XF88, CF88

M.A.C.S.: 2

Shoulder to center of first cut: .098

Cut to Cut: .083

MAKING FIRST KEYMAKING FIRST KEY

Ignition, Doors, & Rear Hatch

Glove Box1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Depths: 1=.325, 2=.297, 3=.270, 4=.242

NOTES:

FEATURE ARTICLE The 1997 Mitsubishi...

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Transcript of FEATURE ARTICLE The 1997 Mitsubishi...