Fashion Marketing 12

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    Sanuwar Rashid

    B.Sc. in Textile Technology (DU, Bangladesh)

    M.Sc. In Industrial Engineering (THS, UB, Sweden)

    (Major in Applied Textile Mgt.)

    Fashion Marketing in Theory & Practice

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    Introduction to Fashion Marketing

    CHAPTER 1

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    What is fashion?

    Fashion is defined as short term trends or fad which involves change.

    Hot trends are created overnight, consumer

    preferences change like the breeze, and assortments change

    more often than the seasons.

    How successful the fashion is, depends on trends, consumer

    preferences, Assortment range

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    Fashion product and serviceFashion is not only about cloth

    Related fashion Services

    Advice on garment co-ordination

    Cosmetic surgery

    Tattoos

    Image consultancy

    Hair dressing

    Hair transplant

    Sun tanning

    Garment cleaning service

    Clothing alternation/repair

    Clothing

    Underwear Outerwear

    Formal Informal

    Bespoke Ready made

    Natural Men-made

    Related fashion products

    Shoes

    Hatshosiery

    Jewellery

    Belts

    Bags

    Scarves

    CosmeticsFragrances

    Cleaning Products

    Haberdashery

    Wigs

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    Some Fashion IndustriesH & M

    Gina tricot

    Lindex

    Adidas

    NikeZara

    American Apparel

    Patagonia

    Gap

    Hugo Boss

    Gorge ArmaniBenetton

    Everest

    Puma

    Haglofs

    Gant

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    What is marketing

    Marketing is a management process concerned with

    anticipating, identifying and satisfying customer

    needs in order to meet the long term goals of the

    organization.

    Marketing is a philosophy developed by each firm

    to delivery product or service to their target

    customer.

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    What marketing does

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    Factors that effect the growth of marketing

    Long or short termLow/high promotion driven

    Or up scale business

    Promotional tactics

    Digital or manual ad.

    Viral marketing

    Awareness: health issue

    Share with reputed brand

    Create your brand

    Customer interest first

    Offer better serviceDesign belongs to

    Originality, sustainability

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    What is Fashion Marketing

    Fashion marketing is the application of rangeof techniques and a business philosophy that

    centers upon the customer and potential

    customer of clothing and clothing related

    products and services in order to meet the

    long term goals of the organization.

    Intrinsic change in fashion marketing make it

    different from many other areas of marketing.

    The role of design in both leading and

    reflecting consumer demand results invariety of approaches of fashion marketing.

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    Two different views of fashion marketing

    Fashion marketing is the same as

    promotion

    Design should be based solely on

    marketing research

    Sell what we can makeMake what we can sell

    Design centered

    Marketing centered

    High failure rate

    Relies on intuition

    Bland designs

    Stifles creativity

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    Fashion Marketing concept

    Low

    Low

    High

    High

    Design Centered

    Failure Marketing centered

    Fashion Marketing

    concept

    Concern for customer and profit

    Concernforfashion

    Design

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    low concern for customer, profit and design leads to failure.

    It is the consequence of overestimating design ability while

    consumer preference and need for profit is undervalued.

    The fashion marketing concept is devoted to high

    concern for design, customer and profit by recognizing

    the interdependence of marketing and design.

    In this matrix, it can be seen that

    Therefore, fashion marketing concept is not just a

    theoretical model, it does work in practice.

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    Job description of fashion MarketersFashion marketers have the job title like fashion

    marketing manager, selector, merchandiser, sales

    executive, public relation consultant

    1. Fashion marketing research:

    A researcher will investigate the market shares of

    competitors and trends in those share. He is

    responsible for carry out a group discussion with

    potential consumer.

    2. Fashion Product Management:A design manager should be concerned with

    producing a specific range of clothing. He is

    responsible to collect and pass on information to the

    designer. Later the manager will sell the designs to

    retailer , usually in the face of fierce competition.

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    3

    . Fashion Promotion:A fashion manager may think about brochure beside his

    fashion cloth as a part of the promotional effort. In that case,

    a brief to be given to a responsible person to prepare visual

    and textual material for the brochure . It will include and

    estimate of the no. of brochures needed and a list of

    addresses.

    4. Fashion distribution:

    Someone who wish to expand his or her business , needs to

    research a few options including franchising her business,spreading his product in selected department stores and linking

    with a leading designer to produce new range.

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    5. Fashion Product positioning and pricing:

    To be competitive in fashion market, a retailer need to offer

    reasonable price in compare to other retailer. So the positioning and

    pricing of the product must be reviewed constantly by considering

    the price sensitivity of customers.

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    Fashion Marketing process

    Fashion Marketing Organization

    Price, Products & Services, Place, Promotion,

    Marketing Mix

    Marketing

    ResearchCustomers

    Design

    Research

    Marketing Environment

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    Production Transportation Store End user

    Merchandise depDesign dep.Pre-Production

    Demand information

    Product flow

    Marketing

    Demand

    management

    Product information

    General model of fashion business

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    3- tier view of fashion market

    Haute

    Couture

    DesignerWear

    Street Fashion (MassMarket)

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    Haute couture

    Haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive

    custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to

    order for a specific customer, and it is usually made

    from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with

    extreme attention to detail and finished by the most

    experienced and capable seamstresses, often using

    time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.

    Pierre Balmain adjusting a dress on

    model Ruth Ford in 1947

    (Photographed by Carl Van Vechten).

    In France, the term haute couture is protectedby law and is defined by the Chambre de

    commerce et d'industrie de Paris based in

    Paris, France. The criteria for haute couture

    were established in 1945 and updated in 1992.

    Members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules:Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.

    Have a workshop in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.

    Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising

    at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

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    5 Leading fashion Market allover world

    Paris

    Yves St Laurent, Chanel, Christian Dior, PierreCardin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix,

    Milan Gorgio Aramni, Gianni Versace, Emanuel Ungaro

    London

    Bruce Oldfield, Jasper Conran, VivienneWestwood, Paul Smith, Katharine Hamnett,

    New York

    Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Bill Blass, Oscar de laRenta, Donna Karan

    Tokyo

    Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, IsseyMiyake, Kenzo

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    Yves St Laurent

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    Chanel

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    Christian Dior

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    Pierre Cardin

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    Jean Paul Gaultier

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    Christian Lacroix

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    Giorgio Aramni

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    Gianni Versace

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    VivienneWestwood

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    Katharine Hamnett,

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    The Fashion Marketing Environment

    MACRO Environment

    MICRO Environment

    Demographics Legal

    Technology Political

    Social

    Economic Environmental

    Cultural

    Supplier Manufacturer- Intermediate- Consumer

    Competitor

    Public

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    Fashion Logistics

    CHAPTER 2

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    Traditional Apparel Supply Chain

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    Globalized Apparel Supply chain

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    THE VALUE CHAIN

    Insource /

    outsource?

    Manage

    variety,

    quality& costs

    BrandDevelopment

    &

    Management

    Marketdevelopment

    Distributor

    liaison

    Product &

    service

    liability

    Product &

    service

    specification

    Infrastucture

    supoort

    Value

    Delivery

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    Basic Supply chain management

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    Own production

    Fabric producers

    Trimmings producers

    Garment producers

    Product developing brand

    suppliers

    Integrated retailers

    Trade agents/importers

    Licensees

    Traditional wholesale dealers

    Retailbranch companies

    Independent shops

    Voluntary multiple chains

    Integrated wholesalers

    Franchise

    Department stores

    Mailorders/Internet

    Outlets

    The companys value chain

    Outsourced production

    Fabric producers

    Trimmings producers

    Garment producers

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    Fashion scheduling by traditional

    players and ZARA

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    Off shore supply chain may consists of severallinks:

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    Sourcing Strategy

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    Sourcing Concept

    CM

    CMT

    Full Package (Full Price)

    Private label

    Own label

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    CM Cutting Manufacturing

    Customers supply full product specifications,

    materials, patterns, accessories for the order.

    The production company just makes the

    manufacturing of the garments.

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    CMT Cutting Manufacturing and Trimmings

    The price covers cutting and manufacturing

    and all trimmings, such as: threads, buttons,

    linings etc.

    The customer supplies full product

    specifications, patterns, some of the

    accessories and all main materials.

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    Full package (Full price)

    Cutting, manufacturing and materials.

    The customer supplies full product specifications covering both

    material and individual style.The supplier buys the material and sells the garment for so

    called full price.

    Patterns could be done by customer or supplier.

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    Private label

    The manufacturer independently or jointly with the

    customer designs the product, searches materials,

    makes patterns and sells the product for the full price.

    The garments are delivered under the customers label.

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    Own label

    The manufacturer designs and manufacture the

    product and sells it under own label.

    Own brand sold to multi brand chains

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    Gradual value addition

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    Critical Success Factors

    CHAPTER 3

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    CRITICAL SUCCESS FACTORS

    Offshore/nearby

    sourcing

    Processlead time

    Up-front/

    replenishmentmix

    Forecast

    accuracy

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    Upfront/ Replenishment mix:

    During the start of a particular season, all products are available

    in retail shop irrespective of where it is produced, whether far

    east or near by region as the order is placed earlier by

    considering the lead time.But some products are going to stock out due to excessive

    customer demand.

    Then the issue of replenishment comes forward. As the product

    design, material specification has already been done,

    replenishment requires only the production duration and if theproduction is conducted with near by manufacturer, then the

    newly lead time will be maximum two to four weeks.

    Therefore, the replenishment tactic ensures fewer lost sale and

    better service level.

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    Offshore and nearby sourcing:

    For functional products where the demand trend is predictable and

    demand variation is less, offshore sourcing could be the best

    practice.

    But for fast fashion product where the demand trend is virtually

    impossible, nearby sourcing is appropriate.

    In nearby sourcing, the lead time is reduced and retailer or marketer

    have the opportunity to manipulate the product design and someother specification.

    Even in the season, they can modify some specifications of garments

    as per the feed back of customer

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    Process Lead time:

    F

    rom the starting stage ofidea generation done by

    fashion designer, lead time is

    counted. The following

    figure will give a idea of

    lead time. As per the figure,it is clear that transportation

    is the main differential factor

    for offshore and nearby

    sourcing strategy. Material

    purchase and product design

    also have a impact on how

    long or short the lead time

    will be.

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    Forecast accuricy

    When a buyer makes a purchase plan for the season he tries to

    forecast the demand as accurately as possible.

    A survey carried on 16 fashion companies of Scandinavian region

    expressed the tremendous influence of forecast accuracy on their

    sourcing strategy. For Up-front sourcing, the forecast accuracy is

    +33/-18 while In season or QR sourcing initiate 5% forecast error.

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    FORECAST ERROR+ ERROR

    Unsold goodsReduce price

    Lose profit

    - ERROR

    Stock-outLost sales

    Bad reputation

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    Forecast ErrorForecast Error

    + 28+ 28

    -- 1818

    72 % sold at first price, and72 % sold at first price, and

    28 % sold at reduced prices28 % sold at reduced prices

    18 % lost sales = could have sold18 % lost sales = could have sold

    more if there had been right goodsmore if there had been right goods

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    FORECAST ERRORFORECAST ERROR

    -20%

    -15%-10%

    -5%

    0%

    5%

    10%

    15%

    20%

    25%

    30%

    Up-fronts Replenishments

    28 %28 %

    -- 18 %18 %

    7 %7 %

    -- 8 %8 %

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    Success Measure of Fashion Retailing

    Stock Keeping Unit (

    SKU ) is a term referring to oneproduct on style, color and size level, i.e. the basic item in

    stock management as well as in sales. SKU range means the

    assortment of different SKUs bought for a season. To make

    our understand on SKU range, lets consider a ladies wear

    store of Europe where the sales per year is 130000 pcs. Andthe normal assortment range is:

    SKU Range:

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    S i l l

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    Service level:

    Service level indicates what proportion of the full SKU range

    bought for the season is available at store. A service level of 90% means that 90 % of all the different SKUs bought for the

    season are available through-out the whole season. It means

    also that at the end of the season 90 % of SKU range is left over

    and will have to be cleared through mark-down sales

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    Lost sales:

    The negative error of forecast accuracy denote lost

    sales percentage. Due to excessive demand fromcustomer side, particular SKUs are quickly sold out.

    Therefore, the percentage of sales lost due to stock out

    is described by lost sales

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    For 100% upfront purchase (offshore sourcing)

    Forecast error +33% -18%Annual purchase 200 mEuro

    Mark up 2.5 (150%)

    Mark down 50% (Average)

    For 70% Upfront (offshore) and 30% OTB (nearby/QR)

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    Forecast error, for upfront +33% -18%

    For Replenishment +7% -8%

    Annual Purchase 200 mEuroMark up 2.5Mark down 50% (average)

    For 70% Upfront (offshore) and 30% OTB (nearby/QR)

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    Market Environment Analysis

    Target Company: HUGO BOSS

    Target product: Boss Black; Mens wear

    Target Market: Germany

    Selected competitor: Strellson, Emporio Armani

    Prepared By:

    Katja Schmitz

    Sara Habte Selassie

    Imran SarwarKamran Siddiqui

    Han Jiashen

    Sanuwar Rashid

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    Market Environment Analysis

    5- Force Model

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    5 Force Model

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    Product Quality & Cutting Edge

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    Price & Cutting Edge

    Price & Product Quality

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    Price & Product Quality

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    Brand Identity & Width of Distribution

    C ti l i f k f t

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    Comparative analysis of key success factors

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    Sanuwar RashidShufei- Wang

    ECO-FAIRBusiness for Green Planet

    Case study on Fashion Logistics

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    Company Description

    Integrated retailer in the wholesale segment

    Product - Knit Garments

    Target group - Men and Women of all ages

    including children.Annual Sales target - 125 M. SEK in retail price

    & 50 M.SEK in whole sale price

    No. Of stores - 6

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    Our Business Strategy

    Dealing with 100% natural fiber (cotton & wool)

    Sustainable eco-textiles are produced on ethical working

    conditions

    Moderate price level

    Wide product range

    Strong CSR & Environment conscious

    Good relation with supplier

    Collaboration with Swedish School of textile

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    Basic Supply Chain Model

    Out SourcingRomaniaFULL PRICE

    ECO-FAIR

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    Value Chain of ECO-FAIR

    Manufacturer Wholesaler Retailer

    Outsource Production Integrated Retailer Own shops

    Mono brand shops

    Online shops

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    Sourcing Matrix

    ProductProductRangeRange

    %% PurchasingPurchasing SeasonsSeasons/ year/ year

    SourcingSourcingstretegystretegy

    WhereWherefromfrom

    Lead timeLead time

    AA BBTotalTotalA+BA+B

    ContinuousContinuousproductsproducts 4040

    AutomaticAutomaticreplenishmentreplenishment

    20%20%

    UpUp--front 80%front 80%

    11 VMIVMI100%100% OffshoreOffshore100%100% 88--1212weeksweeks 88--1212weeksweeks

    1616--2424

    weeksweeks

    SeasonalSeasonalFashionFashion

    6060UpUp--front 20%front 20%

    During seasonDuring season

    80%80%

    44VMI 30%VMI 30%QRQR--70%70%

    OffshoreOffshore20%20%

    Near byNear by80%80%

    33--44weeksweeks

    33--44weeksweeks

    66--88weeksweeks

    11weekweek

    11weekweek

    22WeeksWeeks

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    Critical Success Factor

    Forecast error

    Sell through %

    Lost Sales %

    Upfront (44%)

    +30% -15%

    70%

    15%

    Near By(56%)

    +7% -8%

    93%

    8%

    80% of continuous products are followed by upfront purchasing

    As we source our seasonal fashion on the basis of QR from Romania, we

    have the forecast error here in satisfactory level.

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    Average Mark down: 50%

    We offer huge mark down for our seasonal fashion product after the

    season expired and moderate mark down for our continuous product.

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    Average Service Level: 85%

    As our products are subjected for both sexes including children, we have a

    optimum SKU range. So 85% service level is relatively good for us.

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    Stock Turn: 4.38

    We eliminate the backup inventory; our all goods go directly in to the

    store. Thats why our stock turn is now in satisfactory level. We are

    focused more on logistics activities to get rid of interest paying on money

    for backup inventory as well.

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    OTB- 56%

    Our 60% of total sales are based on seasonal fashion where QR is in action

    to ensure the continuous flow of product according to customer demand.

    We emphasize more on upfront buying only for continuous product where

    high lead time is considered.

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    GM- 56.2%

    As we offer moderate price level, our mark up is about 150% and our markdown is approximately 50% on an average. We have minimum forecast

    error for OTB (56%).

    In these circumstances, GM value have been optimized which is now in

    satisfactory level.

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    GMROI- 5.63

    GMROI is the consequence of our high stock turn.

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    d i d l i i l d i

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    Production and logistics, lead time

    knitting

    steamingpacking

    yarn sourcing

    transportation

    winding linking Wash & drying

    inspection inspection

    inspection

    distribution center in Sweden

    RumaniaChina, Bengal

    store

    customersonline shop

    by airby sea by air (QR)

    1 week 3 days1 week

    1 day

    2-4 days4 weeks

    1-2 days

    4 days2 days

    1 day

    3 days1 day

    1-2 days

    Replenishment

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    ep e s e t

    productionstore suppliermarketing team

    packaging

    Design modification

    transportation

    3-4 weeks2 days

    3days 1-2 week

    2 days

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