Fashion Design: A Technical Foundation by Tanya Dove

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  • 7/30/2019 Fashion Design: A Technical Foundation by Tanya Dove

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  • 7/30/2019 Fashion Design: A Technical Foundation by Tanya Dove

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    \h coo taj tjcnajrs ckl gu`ljs wah acvj nrhssjl ey pcta,

    @ tacki yhu.

    \h coo taj stuljkts @ acvj tcugat @ tacki yhu thh,

    bhr coo taj pcttjrk eci`kg acklhuts @ prhv`ljl th yhu

    crj khw `ks`lj

    C \jnak`nco Bhuklct `hk.

    \h coo taj ljs`gkjrs ta`s mhhi w`oo gu`lj `k taj buturj, jkfhy.

    \ckyc Lhvj - Ljs` gkjr, Nr jct hr, Cut ahr

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    @ktrhlunt`hk

    BC^A@HK LJ^@GK6 C \jnak`nco Bhuklct`hk

    C \jnak`nco Bhuklct `hk`s c whejks wjcr pcttjrk-nutt`kg gu`lj bhr coo bcsa`hk

    ljs`gkjrs. Brhe csp`r`kg stuljkts, th c bcsa`hk ljs`gk ojnturjrs rjbjrjknj ectjr`co, ckl

    ljs`gkjrs co`ij. @t prhv`ljs ljtc`ojl nhkstrunt`hk `kbhrect`hk bhr gcrejkt mohnis tact

    crj usjl w`ta`k bcsa`hk ljs`gk.

    \h nrjctj nhoojnt`hks, wajtajr ehljo s`zj bhr nctwcoi sahws ckl pahth sahhts, hr ck

    `kl`v`lucos s`zj, gcrejkt mohnis crj cowcys usjl ckl clcptjl `kth taj nahsjk ljs`gk.

    C \jnak`nco Bhuklct `hktcijs yhu tarhuga taj nrjct`hk hb tajsj mohnis, wa`na nck tajk

    mj usjl ckl clcptjl rjpjctjloy. @t `s c bhuklct`hk hb pcttjrk nutt`kg cs `t sahws yhu

    ahw th nrjctj taj mohnis, kht `kl`v`luco gcrejkt ljs`gks.

    C \jnak`nco Bhuklct `hk`s l`v`ljl `kth twjkty-hkj nacptjrs hb gcrejkt mohnis,

    nhephkjkts ckl k`sa`kg usjl `k gcrejkt nhkstrunt`hk. Jcna nacptjr acs ljtc`ojl

    `kbhrect`hk ckl nojcr tjnak`nco p`nturjs sahw`kg ahw th nhkstrunt taj l`bbjrjkt

    gcrejkt mohnis ckl tcij taje th pocks ckl pcttjrks.

    \aj gcrejkt nhkstrunt`hk nacptjrs prhv`lj c rckgj hb l`bbjrjkt mohnis th mj usjl th

    nhkstrunt taj spjn`n gcrejkt bhr c si`rt tajrj `s c strc`gat si`rt, buoo si`rt, n`rnoj si`rt

    ckl pjkn`o si`rt. \ajsj mohnis nck tajk mj usjl ct taj ljs`gkjrs l`snrjt`hk th ljs`gk a`s

    hr ajr hwk rckgj. Jcna gcrejkt sjnt`hk nhvjrs c euot`tulj hb gcrejkt mohnis, wa`na

    ecijs clcpt`kg l`bbjrjkt mohnis `kth `kl`v`luco ljs`gks tact euna jcs`jr csC \jnak` nco

    Bhuklct `hknhvjrs c nah`nj hb mohnis bhr jcna gcrejkt th whri brhe.

    \aj gcrejkt nhephkjkt nacptjrs sahw `k ljtc`o ahw th nhkstrunt l`bbjrjkt gcrejkt

    nhephkjkts, brhe cll`kg buookjss `kth nohta`kg - taj bhur vcr`jt`js hb pojcts, ghljts ckl

    gctajrs. L`bbjrjkt wcys th k`sa taj wc`sto`kj ckl kjnio`kj, sojjvj sacpjs, ahhls,

    nhoocrs, pocnijts, nubbs th brhkt hpjk`kgs ckl l`bbjrjkt styojs hb phnijts.

    \aj nacptjrs acvj mjjk ljs`gkjl `k ck hrljr hb s`epo`n`ty ct taj mjg`kk`kg, ckl taj

    tjnak`nco cspjnt hb pcttjrk nutt`kg gjtt`kg ehrj nhepojx tarhugahut taj mhhi. ]ckg`kg

    brhe si`rt ckl trhusjr mohnis tarhuga th tc`ohr`kg, nhkthur`kg ckl fjrsjy wjcr mohnis.W`ta jcna gcrejkt ckl nhephkjkt `k l`bbjrjkt nacptjrs C \jnak`nco Bhuklct `hkacs

    mjjk ljs`gkjl `k c wcy bhr taj ljs`gkjrs th jvhovj tarhuga taj mhhi rjcna`kg c ojvjo hb

    ukljrstckl`kg ckl prcnt`nj, th tajk acvj taj tjnak`nco si`oos th ljs`gk taj`r hwk

    nhoojnt`hks. \ajrj crj cosh tjnak`ncooy `ooustrctjl scepoj ljs`gks th sahw taj typj hb

    gcrejkts tact taj l`bbjrjkt mohnis nck nrjctj.

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    \aj ejcsurjejkts quhtjl bhr coo pcttjrk eci`kg crj c ZI s`zj 34. (Cpprhx`ectjoy ck

    JZ >< ckl c Z^ s`zj 2). \aj ejcsurjejkts acvj mjjk ljn`ljl brhe ck ckcoys`s hb

    rjtc`ojrs ckl taj`r s`z`kg nacrts cnrhss taj gohmj. \ajrj `s kh ljk`t`vj s`z`kg nacrt,

    ecky rjtc`ojrs clfust`kg taj`r s`z`kg th su`t taj cgj grhup hb taj`r nusthejrs. \ajrj`s c nhouek hk taj s`z`kg nacrt bhr taj ljs`gkjrs th wr`tj taj`r nahsjk ejcsurjejkts.

    Coo nhkstrunt`hk ejcsurjejkts quhtjl tarhugahut taj mhhi cosh acvj taj bhreuoc th

    hmtc`k suna ejcsurjejkt, wa`na jkcmojs nackg`kg taj s`zj hb taj mohnis jcs`jr bhr taj

    ljs`gkjr.

    C \jnak`nco Bhuklct `hkcosh sahws ljtc`ojl tjnak`nco spjn`nct`hk tjepoctjs th

    jkcmoj taj ljs`gkjrs th lrcw taj`r ljs`gks `k ljtc`o. @t acs c spjn`n nacptjr bhr

    nhst`kg gcrejkts ckl spjn`nct`hk sajjts th pcss taj pcttjrk hkth c bcnthry hr tc`ohr

    th ecij taj ljs`gks. \aj grcl`kg nacptjr sahws c grcl`kg s`zj nacrt hb ahw th nackgj

    gcrejkt s`zjs, w`ta ljtc`ojl `kbhrect`hk hk p`vht grcl`kg.

    \aj kco nacptjr, Bcmr`ns, g`vjs `kbhrect`hk hk ahw th nut hut bcmr`n ckl taj l`bbjrjkt

    bcmr`n quco`t`js. \ajrj crj ecky nah`njs hb bcmr`ns cvc`ocmoj th usj w`ta`k bcsa`hk

    ljs`gk, brhe kcturco mrjs o`ij nhtthk, whho, s`oi ckl o`kjk th eck eclj ckl e`xjl

    mrj bcmr`ns. \aj r`gat bcmr`n bhr gcrejkt ljs`gk ljpjkls hk taj ljs`gk `tsjob. \aj

    scej pcttjrk nck mj usjl w`ta l`bbjrjkt bcmr`ns mut taj k`sa ohhi w`oo mj l`bbjrjkt.

    Bou`l o`gat bcmr`ns w`oo lrcpj lhwk taj mhly, wajrj cs rejr ajcv`jr bcmr`ns w`oo ackg

    hvjr taj mhly. \aj mrjs nacrts g`vj c ljsnr`pt`hk hb shej l`bbjrjkt typjs hb kcturco

    ckl eckubcnturjl bcmr`ns cvc`ocmoj.

    C \jnak`nco Bhuklct `hk

    my \ckyc Lhvj

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    3. @kbhrect`hk

    Ejcsurjejkt ^`zj Nacrt

    \aj ejcsurjejkt s`zj nacrt `s c gu`lj hk mhly ejcsurjejkts bhr ZI s`zj 34, 3= ckl 3

    WO - Wc`st o`kj - .: >:.0

    QB - Najst - ejcsurj 3=ne lhwk brhe A.T.^ >3 >=.= >>. > >

    Brhkt wc`st lcrt ojkgta - WO th b`k`sa 34 34 34

    Mcni wc`st lcrt w`lta > > >

    Mcni wc`st lcrt ojkgta - WO th b`k`sa 3< 3< 3>.2 >:.=

    Ckioj =4.< =3 =3.2

    ^ojjvj ojkgta :1 :1.: :0

    M`njp - ejcsurj =.:ne lhwk brhe creahoj =2.< =1 =0.2

    Jomhw == => =. \cpj ejcsurj

    -ee `k ojkgta `s eclj hk taj bcmr`n wajk `t `s nut.

    Khtnajs crj ecrijl hk mohnis ckl nut hut w`ta khtnajrs hk pcttjrks. \ajy crj ck c`l bhr wajktaj gcrejkt `s sjwk. A`po`kj ckl wc`sto`kj crj cowcys khtnajl. Wajk eci`kg c gcrejkt w`ta pckjos

    mcni th mcni acs twh khtnajs, brhkt th brhkt acs hkj khtna. Mcni th brhkt acs fust hkj khtna. 3ne

    sjce

    coohwcknj `s kjvjr khtnajl, mut m`ggjr sjce coohwcknjs lh acvj khtnajs. Ajeo`kj `s khtnajl wajk

    `t `s kht 3ne. Khtnajl crj usjl th ecij sjw`kg jcs`jr sh crj cowcys usjl wajk sjce o`kjs crj

    nurvjl. Ohkg sjces crj khtnajl cpprhx`ectjoy acob wcy.

    34

    Brjkna sjce us`kg 3ne sjce coohwcknj yhu sjw taj r`gat s`ljs thgjtajr rst us`kg 4.>nesjce coohwcknj, tr`e, prjss ckl tajk sjw taj sjce cgc`k us`kg 4.:ne sjce coohwcknj. \ajsj crj

    gjkjrcooy usjl hk kj bcmr`ns ckl jvjk`kgwjcr cs `t g`vjs c kjct secoo sjce hk taj `ks`lj.

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    Lcrts

    Tcttjrk mohnis acvj must lcrts ckl wc`st lcrts. \a`s `s th tcij taj =L pcttjrk p`jnjs ckl nrjctj >L

    gcrejkts th t taj aueck bhre. \ajy crj usjl th nrjctj sacp`kg th t taj mhly wajrj hur mhl`js

    nhkthur `k ckl hut.

    Lcrts nck mj ehvjl `kth pckjo o`kjs sh tact tajrj `s kh v`s`moj lcrt. \ajy crj rcrjoy usjl cs c

    ljs`gk ljtc`os. C lcrt `s taj sacpj hb c R. Wajrj taj o`kjs hb taj lcrt crj ckgojl th taj ph`kt

    wajrj taj jxnjss bcmr`n kjjls th mj rjehvjl.

    Wc`st lcrts crj pocnjl crhukl taj >L wc`sto`kj th l`str`mutj wajrj taj jxtrc bcmr`n `s tcijk hut.

    ^`lj sjces corjcly acvj sacpj, lcrts spo`t taj brhkt ckl mcni sjnt`hks `k acob brhe njktrj th s`lj,

    tci`kg hut taj jxnjss jvjkoy. Wc`st lcrts nck mj ehvjl cohkg taj wc`sto`kj, mut taj hr`g`kco phs`-

    t`hk g`vjs taj mjst l`str`mut`hk. Must lcrts sahuol cowcys ph`kt thwcrls taj must ph`kt th nrjctj taj

    mjst t.

    Lr`oo Ahojs

    C lr`oo ahoj `s c ecri tact `s eclj hk c pock, pcttjrk ckl trcksbjrrjl hkth taj bcmr`n wajk nutt`kg.

    \ajy crj usjl bhr phnijts ckl ljtc`os tact crj `ks`lj c pcttjrk p`jnj @.J. kht hk ck jlgj wajrj yhu

    nck lh c khtna. \aj phs`t`hk `s ecrijl cnnurctjoy hk taj pock ckl pcttjrk ahwjvjr hk taj bcmr`n `t

    `s mjst ecrijl >ee lhwk ckl >ee cnrhss brhe taj cntuco phs`t`hk.

    Grc`k O`kjs

    Grc`k o`kjs crj cowcys lrcwk hk coo mohnis, pocks ckl pcttjrk p`jnjs. \ajsj sahw taj l`rjnt`hk `kwa`na taj bcmr`n `s th mj nut hut. Hk mohnis taj grc`k o`kj `s lrcwk cs taj strc`gat grc`k, pcrcoojo th

    taj sjovjlgj hb taj bcmr`n. Bhr pocks ckl pcttjrks taj grc`k o`kj ljpjkls hk taj gcrejkt ljs`gk. \aj

    grc`k o`kj `s lrcwk cs c strc`gat o`kj w`ta `kbhrect`hk wr`ttjk lhwk taj ojkgta. \aj purphsj hb ta`s

    `s bhr taj nuttjr th ikhw ahw th nut taj bcmr`n brhe taj pcttjrk. @t `s `ephrtckt th jksurj grc`k o`kjs

    crj

    pjrbjntoy strc`gat htajrw`sj taj bcmr`n nhuol mj nut hut wrhkg. \a`s whuol mj hbb grc`k. Bcmr`n `s

    vjry sjks`t`vj wajk nut ckl `b `t `s nut hbb grc`k `t nhuol ncusj taj sjces th kht mj sehhta ckl taj

    bcmr`n th kht ackg lhwk taj mhly nhrrjntoy. \a`s `s ncoojl rhp`kg.

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    Grc`k O`kjs L`cgrce

    3=

    ^trc`gat Grc`k- taj sjovjlgj `s taj jlgj hb taj bcmr`n, wa`na `s kcturcooy k`sajl wajk eclj.\aj grc`k o`kj bhoohws ta`s o`kj lhwk taj ojkgta hb taj bcmr`n (kht taj jlgj wa`na acs mjjk nut wajk

    taj bcmr`n wcs purnacsjl).

    Nrhss Grc`k`s wajk yhu nut ct c r`gat ckgoj th taj grc`k o`kj. \a`s whuol mj nutt`kg cohkg tajjlgj wa`na acs mjjk nut wajk purnacsjl. Hkoy shej bcmr`ns nck mj nut hut nrhss grc`k tajsj tjkl

    th mj stcmoj bcmr`ns wa`na lh kht acvj euna kcturco strjtna. Nrhss grc`k nutt`kg `s cosh usjl bhr

    ljs`gk

    ljtc`o`kg `b taj bcmr`n `s bhr jxcepoj c str`pj.

    M`cs Grc`k wajk pcttjrk p`jnjs crj nut ct c

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    V`ppjr Hpjk`kgs

    Ck hpjk`kg hk c si`rt hr trhusjrs kjjls th k`sa 31ne mjohw taj wc`sto`kj th jkcmoj yhu th gjt taj

    gcrejkt hvjr yhur a`ps. @b yhu rjlunj taj wc`st aj`gat (th ecij ohw wc`stjl) yhu kjjl th usj c

    sahrtjr z`ppjr. V`ps lh kht kjjl th nhej cky ohwjr tack 31ne mjohw taj wc`sto`kj. C khtna ecri `s

    usjl th sahw wajrj taj z`ppjr kjjls th jkl. \a`s `s cppo`ncmoj bhr s`lj sjce ckl brhkt ckl mcni

    hpjk`kgs. Wajk c z`ppjr `s usjl ct taj s`lj sjce `t `s cowcys sjwk hk taj ojbt s`lj hb taj mhly bhr

    coo gcrejkts.

    Wajk nahhs`kg c z`ppjr bhr yhur gcrejkt `t `s clv`scmoj th sjojnt hkj tact `s c su`tcmoj ta`nikjss

    ckl wj`gat bhr taj bcmr`n yhu crj gh`kg th usj. @b taj z`ppjr `s thh ta`k ckl o`gat `t w`oo kht mj strhkg

    jkhuga bhr rjpjctjl usj. @b taj z`ppjr `s thh ajcvy `t e`gat ecij taj bcmr`n lrcg lhwk w`ta taj

    wj`gat hb taj z`p.

    ]jguocr V`ppjr\a`s `s taj z`ppjr wajrj yhu nck sjj taj z`p, taj tjjta. Zsjl `k trhusjrs bhr taj njktrj brhkt yhpjk`kg. \ajrj crj khw ecky styojs hb rjguocr z`ppjrs w`ta l`bbjrjkt nhohurjl tjjta, ejtco, pocst`n

    ckl l`cecktj styoj jemjoo`saejkts hk taj tjjta. @t hpjks hkj jkl hkoy w`ta taj z`ppjr puoojy. \ajrj

    crj ecky typjs hb z`ppjr puoojys cosh. \a`s z`ppjr `s mjst usjl wajk yhu wckt th sjj taj z`p, hr

    wajrj taj z`p `s nhvjrjl my c stckl.

    @kv`s`moj V`ppjr\a`s z`ppjr acs taj tjjta hk taj `ks`lj sh tajrj `s kh v`s`moj z`ppjr hk taj huts`lj. Ec`koy usjl `k

    lrjssjs ckl si`rts, sjwk hk taj ojbt s`lj sjce sh `t nckkht mj sjjk ct coo. @t whris wjoo bhr kj

    bcmr`ns, cs taj z`ppjr `s ehrj ljo`nctj tack c rjguocr z`p.

    Hpjk Jkljl V`ppjr\a`s z`p hpjks mhta jkls ckl `s usjl `k fcnijts, nhcts ckl gcrejkts wajrj yhu kjjl (hr wckt) th

    hpjk taj gcrejkt up nhepojtjoy. \aj scej cs c rjguocr z`ppjr, tajrj crj ecky nah`njs hb

    hpjk-jkljl z`ppjrs cvc`ocmoj. \ajsj tjkl th mj ajcv`jr z`ps, ckl crj nheehkoy sjjk `k ncsuco wjcr

    ckl hutjrwjcr.

    @ktjrbcn`kg

    @ktjrbcn`kg `s usjl th ahol taj sacpj ckl nrjctj c k`nj k`sa wc`sto`kj, creahojs, kjnio`kjs (w`ta

    bcn`kgs). @t `s nut >ee secoojr crhukl coo s`ljs hb taj pcttjrk p`jnj. \ajrj crj l`bbjrjkt wj`gats hb`ktjrbcn`kg. Phu sahuol nahhsj c wj`gat su`tcmoj bhr taj bcmr`n `j s`oi sct`k whuol kjjl o`gatwj`gat,

    whho whuol kjjl c ajcv`jr `ktjrbcn`kg. @b yhu crj try`kg th nrjctj c st`bb bhre, `.j. c stckl up st`bb

    nhct nhoocr tajk usj c vjry ajcvy `ktjrbcn`kg. Cotjrkct`vjoy yhu nck ackl mcstj nckvcs crhukl taj

    bcmr`n th g`vj `t jxtrc wj`gat w`tahut st`bbkjss.

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    =. ^I@]\^

    \h mjg`k eci`kg nohtajs yhu kjjl th bhoohw taj pcttjrk eci`kg stjps 5 Mohni th Tock th Tcttjrk

    Mohnis - tajsj crj mcs`n styojs eclj brhe ejcsurjejkts. \ajy crj usjl `k `klustry cs c mcsj thnrjctj ljs`gks. Mohnis lh kht acvj sjce hr aje coohwcknjs. Mohnis crj eclj `k taj mcs`n gcrejkt

    nctjghr`js6- i`rt, Mhl`nj, \rhusjr, Fuepsu`t, Fcnijt, Nhct mohni jtn.

    Tocks- c pock `s eclj my trcn`kg rhukl yhur mohni ckl clcpt`kg `t `kth yhur hwk styoj. C pock `s cecp hb yhur kjw styoj. Cowcys ijjp taj wc`sto`kj ckl a`po`kj hk taj pock `k taj scej phs`t`hk bhr

    brhkt ckl mcni th jksurj taj ojkgta hb yhur ljs`gks crj nhrrjnt. \aj o`kjs hb yhur kjw ljs`gk sahuol

    mj lrcwk hvjr taj thp hb taj mcs`n mohni. ^hej o`kjs w`oo hvjrocp ljpjkl`kg hk taj ljs`gks.

    L`bbjrjkt pckjos `k taj kjw ljs`gk sahuol mj a`gao`gatjl th ecij `t jcs`jr th trcnj hbb taj pcttjrk.

    Tocks crj kjvjr nut up. \ajy crj usjl bhr rjbjrjknj `k ncsj tajrj `s cky ljs`gk hr tt`kg `ssujs

    hknj taj gcrejkt `s eclj. Tocks lh kht acvj sjce hr aje coohwcknjs. Wr`ttjk `kbhrect`hk hk cpock whuol mj cmrjv`ct`hks ckl taj pcttjrk kcej bhr rjbjrjknj.

    Tcttjrks- th ecij c pcttjrk yhu trcnj hbb jcna `kl`v`luco p`jnj hb taj pock cll`kg hk sjcecoohwcknj ckl aje coohwcknj. Wr`ttjk nhktjkt hk c pock nhks`sts hb taj pcttjrk p`jnj `kbhrect`hk.

    Grc`k o`kjs crj lrcwk hk jcna pcttjrk p`jnj. @kbhrect`hk ckl khtnajs hk pcttjrk p`jnjs crj vjry

    `ephrtckt bhr wajk yhu sjw taj gcrejkt thgjtajr.

    ^i`rt ojkgtas

    E`nrh E`k` >:ne

    ^ahrt

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    ^i`rt Mohni Nhkstrunt`hk

    MCNI ^@VJ 34 EJC^Z]JEJK\^

    3 - = ^i`rt ojkgta WO th Ikjj 5 ::ne3 > WO th AO 5 =4ne squcrj cnrhss ph`kts 3,=,> th taj r`gat

    Ecri cs NM> < !a`p pous 3ne jcsj 5 (3/< hb 04ne 5 ==.:+3ne 5 =>.:ne)

    = - : ^cej cs > < 5 =>.:ne: 2 Nhkkjnt < : ckl nhkt`kuj =ne ZT brhe WO 5 ph`kt 2

    3 7 Mcni pr`knjss o`kj 5 7.:ne7 1 Mcni lcrt 5 >ne7 0 Acob mcni lcrt 5 0ne squcrj lhwk th AO ckl ecri ph`kt 34

    0 33 Mcni lcrt ojkgta 5 3ne lcrt + 4.:ne jcsj (32.7:+>+4.: 5 =4.=:ne)1 3= Fh`k w`ta c nurvjl o`kj

    < 3= Fh`k w`ta c nurvjl o`kj

    B]HK\ ^@VJ 34 EJC^Z]JEJK\^< 3: !a`p pous 3ne jcsj 5 =>.:ne

    : 3> ^cej cs < .:ne3> 3< Nhkkjnt 3> th 3: ckl nhkt`kuj o`kj th WO jxtjkl my 4.1ne

    Ecri cs NB3< 32 Brhkt pr`knjss o`kj 5 1ne32 37 Brhkt lcrt 5 =.:ne

    37 31 Acob brhkt lcrt 5 3.=:ne squcrj lhwk th a`po`kj Ecri ph`kt30

    31 =4 Brhkt lcrt ojkgta 5 34ne37 2 Fh`k w`ta c strc`gat o`kj

    3< =3 !wc`st + =.:ne lcrt + 4.:ne jcsj (32.7:+=.:+4.: 5 30.7:ne)37 =3 Fh`k w`ta c nurvjl o`kj

    < =3 Fh`k w`ta c nurvjl o`kj

    3:

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    .

    ^

    ts

    ^i`rt Mohni Tock

    Wajk stcrt`kg c pock cowcys pocnj taj mcni mohni th taj ojbt, nhkt`kuj taj WO,AO ckl aje cnrhss

    th taj r`gat. \ajk pocnj taj brhkt mohni hk taj scej WO,AO, aje o`kjs. \a`s w`oo jksurj pcttjrkojkgta `s nhrrjnt.

    ^i`rt Mohni Nhkstrunt`hk

    32

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    ^i`rt Mohni Tcttjrk Nhkstrunt`hk

    \h clcpt yhur pock `kth c pcttjrk yhu kjjl th cll taj bhoohw`kg6-

    3. Cll 3ne sjce coohwcknj crhukl coo jlgjs (KH\ NB,NM cs tajsj crj hk taj bhol)

    =. Cll >ne aje coohwcknj

    >. Cll khtnajs th6-

    c. Lcrts, mhta thp jlgjs

    m. A`po`kj

    n. V`ppjr (31ne lhwk brhe wc`sto`kj)

    l. Ajeo`kj cs ta`s `s kht 3ne

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    .

    ^

    ts

    Wc`st B`k`sajs

    3. ^trc`gat Wc`stmckl- wajk taj si`rt s`ts hk taj cntuco wc`sto`kj c strc`gat wc`stmckl

    `s usjl. \a`s `s eclj my ejcsur`kg taj thp jlgj hb taj si`rt pcttjrk ckl eci`kg c strc`gat pcttjrkp`jnj. \a`s nck mj nut hk taj bhol cs `t `s c strc`gat o`kj. \a`s g`vjs c kjct thp jlgj k`sa w`ta kh

    sjce.

    =. Ohw Wc`st ^i`rt - ^acpjl Wc`stmckl ohwjr wc`st >ne th

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    >. Bcn`kg - ^jwk hkth taj `ks`lj hb taj wc`st-

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    .

    ^

    ts

    Wc`st B`k`sa ^cepoj T`nturjs - Brhkt R`jw

    ^i`rt Phij ^cepoj Ljs`gks - Brhkt R`jw

    =4

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    Tjkn`o i`rts

    \aj si`rt mohni `s strc`gat lhwk taj ojg brhe taj a`po`kj. Bhr pjkn`o si`rts taj s`lj sjce ckl njktrj

    mcni sjce nck mj rjlunjl brhe a`po`kj th ajeo`kj th ecij ehrj ttjl si`rts.

    ** Lh KH\ rjlunj a`po`kj ejcsurjejkt cs ta`s `s rjqu`rjl bhr mhly t. Bhr vjry ttjl pjkn`o si`rts cspo`t hr vjkt kjjls th mj clljl th coohw bhr ehvjejkt.

    Tjkn o ^i`rt Tock

    Tjkn`o ^i`rt Tcttjrk

    =3

    Mcni Brhkt

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    ^

    Buoo ^i`rt (C O`kj ^i`rt)

    Bhr buoo si`rt ljs`gks taj lcrts nck mj nohsjl ckl hpjkjl up ct taj ajeo`kj (ta`s `s ncoojl p`vht`kg)

    th coohw c sehhtajr ohhi ct taj wc`st w`ta kh lcrts, ckl hpjk`kg taj si`rt tarhuga taj e`lloj hb tajojgs. \a`s ejtahl g`vjs jvjk buookjss tarhugahut taj si`rt. Ck cll`t`hkco =.:ne `s clljl th taj s`lj

    sjce th sehhta taj a`po`kj nurvj tact `s hk taj strc`gat si`rt mohni, ckl cosh clls cll`t`hkco

    buookjss ct taj s`lj th g`vj ck coo rhukl jvjk buookjss w`ta`k taj si`rt ljs`gk.

    3. Nhkt`kuj pckjo o`kj lhwk th ajeo`kj.

    =. T`vht lcrt th nohsj hpjk`kg si`rt ct ajeo`kj

    ** tci`kg mhta s`ljs hb taj lcrt ckl pocn`kg thgjtajr,

    ehv`kg taj s`lj hb taj si`rt hut th taj s`lj,

    ckl tajrjbhrj hpjk`kg taj si`rt ct taj ajeo`kj

    >. Tous =.:ne ct s`lj sjce, brhe a`po`kj th aje

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    Buoo ^i`rt Tcttjrk

    Brhkt R`jw

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    =.

    ^i`rts

    N`rnoj ^i`rt

    Bhr n`rnoj si`rts c l`bbjrjkt ejtahl `s usjl bhr nhkstrunt`hk my ejcsur`kg taj wc`sto`kj ckl nrjct`kg

    c n`rnoj. \aj qucrtjr n`rnoj `s nut twh hk taj bhol ckl tajrjbhrj nrjct`kg c buoo n`rnoj.

    3. Nhpy thp pcrt hb si`rt mohni. Lrhp wc`st my >ne ckl ecri c ohw wc`stmckl . Lrcw twh o`kjs ct r`gat ckgoj. \cij taj wc`st ejcsurjejkt ckl lrcw c n`rnoj

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    N`rnoj ^i`rt Tcttjrk

    Brhkt R`jw