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PreFall2015

BalenciagaReview Collection PreviousSeasons

Nicole Phelps

January 25, 2015

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1/26/2015 BalenciagaPreFall2015FashionShow:RunwayReviewStyle.com

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AlexanderWangbuilthisaestheticonthestreetBalenciagaisaEuropeancouturehouse.Wang'sfirstcoupleofyearsattheFrenchlabelhavebeenadialogue,sometimesdifficult,betweenhisnatural

instinctsandthoseoftheatelier,buthe'sinthegroovenow.ChalkituptothecommercialimperativeofthePreFallseasonorthesimplefactthathe'sbeenatthebrandfortwofullfashioncycles,buttherewasanappealingforthrightnesstotheclothespresentedatthecompany'sLeftBankofficestoday.Theylookedpolishedwithoutsacrificingmuchoftheirhipfactor,andtheyweren'ttryingtoohard.Theywere,inaword,wearable,startingwithafivepiececapsulebomber,trench,Perfecto,etc.inshearedmink.

Thatsaid,theclothesweren'twithoutspecialdetails,either.Jacketsandothertailoredseparatesfeatured"spraypaint"jacquards,asifthey'dbeentaggedbyagraffitistar(that's

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1/26/2015 BalenciagaPreFall2015FashionShow:RunwayReviewStyle.com

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onewaytogiveasuitsomestreetwiseedge),andapairofsleevelessbiascutdressescamewithunexpectedembellishments:squiggleflockinginonecase,andarowofbrassbuttonsmarchingupthesideseaminanother.Thosebrassbuttonswerearecurringmotif,andtheirmilitaryconnotationgavepiecesonwhichtheyappearedthezingofessentials.Creatingdesire,ofcourse,doesn'tallcomedowntoneed.ArhinestonebroochintheshapeofacursiveBwassuperfluousinthemostfabulousway.

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