Farman Aslam ,B.Sc-Fashion Design +2years diploma in womens wear Portfoilo

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++ Submitted by- FARMAN ASLAM B.Sc. FT. 2 nd year FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Transcript of Farman Aslam ,B.Sc-Fashion Design +2years diploma in womens wear Portfoilo

++

Submitted by-

FARMAN ASLAM

B.Sc. FT. 2nd

year

FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Project report on

Topic name

Submitted to

Dezyne E’cole College, Ajmer towards the

Partial fulfilment for awards of

Bachelors of Science in Fashion Technology

Submitted by

FARMAN ASLAM

Dezyne E’cole College, Ajmer

2014-2015

www.dezyneecole.com

Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer

Tel. no. 0145 2624679

The Project of Ms. Farman Aslam student of Bachelors of Fashion Technology with two years of women's wear

Fashion Diploma programme has been checked & every aspect of design developed has been & overall grade is-

__________

Thanking You

Principal

Seal& Signature

I am thankful to all my mentors whose guidance has helped me to complete my portfolio according to industry.

I am also thankful to Dezyne Ecole college for being my mentor and giving me such a grateful opportunity to make a

industry ready project and I also thanks Dezyne Ecole for giving me wings to fly high in my career.

Farman Aslam

Bachelors of Science in Fashion Technology

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

CONTENT

What I do is restricted by cloth and the human body.

My job is to make that cloth give expression to the body.’

(VIVIENNE WESTWOOD)

April 1941 is an English Fashion Designer and businesswoman, largely

responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the

mainstream.

QUOTATIONS

WHY PEOPLE WEAR CLOTHES?

Physical needs• Protection

• Safety

Psychological needs• Identity

• Adornment

• Cultural identity

Social needs• Affiliation

• Standards

Why clothing?

FASHION CAPITAL’S

PARIS

Chic and stylish

MILAN

Casual elegance

LONDON

Unorthodox clothes

NEW YORK

Clean-cut & casual

Dior, Chanel,

Yves Saint Laurent

Valentino, Milan Fair Vivienne Westwood

Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren

GOOD FASHION = GOOD DESIGN

A combination of-:

• LINE

• SHAPE

• FORM

• COLOR

• TEXTURE

• Fashion is the accepted day to day way of dressing

at a given time. If u see everyone wearing the same

color or style when they have not been the trend before,

such is “in-fashion”.

• Never has and never will-fashion is the outlook of an

individual of today. Even the retro fashion is never seen.

WHY DOES FASHION CHANGE?

• Fashion change because people change.

• We always want something new.

• Clothing always change for practicable reasons.

• “Take the black skirt” as an example.

WHAT IS FASHION?

FASHION DESIGNING

It is the art of application of design and

aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and

accessories. Fashion designing is influenced

by cultural and social latitude, and has varied

over time and place. Fashion designers work in

a number of ways in designing clothing and

accessories.

• Ready to wear (Pret-a-Porter)- it’s mass produced

garments. It includes designers originals manufactured to

a certain number for department stores offered at low

cost.

KINDS OF FASHION

HAUTE COUTURE

• Haute Couture- French word meaning high

fashion. It means a one-of-a-kind. These include

designers original designs or clothing that are

custom made.PRET-A-PORTER

CATEGORIES OF FASHION

HAUTE COUTURE

Sr. no.Fashion

categoriesProperty Lines Textures Colors Effects

1HAUTE

COUTURE

Designers

collection, very

attractive

Layered and

very specificSoft textures Soft colors Unique effect

2 CLASSIC

Emphasis's

more on

business and

corporate look

Simple and

traditionalSoft textures

Beige,navy,red

,blue and black

Effect of

leader,

practical

3 ELEGANTExpensive

designers

collection

Mostly

uncomplicated

Fine fabric

textures

Muted, solid

colors

Executive look

effect very

refined

4 CASUALFeeling at

home, denim

Simple and

easy

Natural and

blended fabric

textures

Bright's,

pastels and

earthy tones

Simple and

easy going

effects

CATEGORIES OF FASHION

HAUTE COUTURE

Sr. no.Fashion

categoriesProperty Lines Textures Colors Effects

5

6FUTURISTI

C

Emphasis's on

look of

electronic and

computer age

Angular, sharp

and

asymmetric

hard textures

Gold, silver

and

contrasting

Impractical to

our present

times

7 DRAMATICStyle creates

glamorous

impact

Mostly

uncomplicated

Fine fabric

textures

Strong and

contrasting

Confident

effect

8CONSERVA

-TIVEOld fashioned

Simple and

easy curvesLacy textures

Pastels, soft

and muted

Simple and

innocent

effects

WESTERN

Clothes are

reduced from

the feminine

emphasis

Durable,

simple

and easy

going

Soft textures Earth tones Unique effect

CATEGORIES OF FASHION

COLOR WHEEL

IMPORTANCE OF COLORS

• DEFINITION-• Colors are used in many ways to assert recognition

• Colors have a demonstrable psychological effect

• Military uniforms are intentionally colored to give statement

and impose authority

COMPARATIVE VALUE RELATIONSHIP

Sr. no. Colors Emotions

1 BLACK Sophisticated, mysterious

2 WHITE Pure, safe, simple

3 GRAY Dignified, cold and gloomy

4BROWN Earthy and warm

5GREEN Fresh, calm, restful, loving

6 ORANGE Warm, new, happy and cheerful

7 PINK Feminine, soft and innocent

8 RED Warning, energetic, cheerful and exciting

9 YELLOW Bright, sunny, alive and positive

10 BLUE Cool, calm, quiet

11 VOILET Royal and rich

COLORSCOLORS

DE

SIG

NE

RCOCO

HANEL

DESIGNERS

PRET-A-PORTER

DE

SIG

NE

R

DESIGNERS

• New look

• Full bustiness

• Tiny waists

• Full skirts

CHRISTAIN

D OR

PRET-A-PORTER

DE

SIG

NE

R

DESIGNERS

SYVE AINT

LAURENT

• Master of couture

• Introduced Tuxedos

• Best color sense collection- Chinese collection

PRET-A-PORTER

DE

SIG

NE

R

DESIGNERS

STRAUSS

LEVI

• Founder of first company to

manufacture riveted blue jeans

PRET-A-PORTER

DE

SIG

NE

R

DESIGNERS

BALENCIAGA

CHRISTO AL

• True inventor of fashion

• First collection was coat, cut in one piece with yoke

• Quest for the perfect sleeve

• Introduced sailor blouse

PRET-A-PORTER

DE

SIG

NE

RCOCO

HANEL

DESIGNERS

• Fashion influences from 1920’s to World War 2

• Resurfaces in 1954

• Little black dress

• Costume jewelry

• Revolution in women's clothing

FASHION SHOW

DIFFERENT FASHION SHOW

• A fashion show is an event put by fashion designers to

showcase his or her upcoming line of clothing during

fashion week.

• Fashion show debut every season, particularly the

spring/summer and fall/winter seasons.

• Here the latest fashion trends are made.

Fashion shows in INDIA and ABROAD-:

• Lakme fashion week

• New York fashion week

• Wills lifestyle fashion week

• Milan fashion week

• Paris fashion week

• London fashion week

• Miami fashion week

• Japan fashion week

FASHION SHOW

New York Fashion Week

Lakme Fashion Week

Bangalore Fashion Week Milan Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week London Fashion Week

FASHION BRANDS

TEN VALUABLE BRANDS

• Fashion Brands are the ones that give identity to a

fashion. They are created by designers and are meant

to sale. They carry the trust of the brand and

designers.

Fashion brands-:

• Adidas

• Armani

• Benetton

• Calvin Klein

• Fastrack

• Gucci

• Nike

• levis

• Pepe jeans

• Prada

• Puma

FASHION BOUTIQUE

INDIAN BOUTIQUES

• Fashion Boutiques are the ones that give identity to a

fashion. They are created by designers and are meant

to sale. They carry the trust of the brand and designers

• In boutiques the designers keep the selected dress or

the dresses which are highly maintained in advance to

differentiate the garments from other ones.

• Manish Arora's

• Ritu Beri’s

• Amara Pali’s

• Umrao Tailors

• Aki Narelle's

• Chanel

• Yves saint Laurent

• Christian Dior

• Seven

• Oak

• Outfit

• Cos

• Macka

• Vakko

• Matches

INTERNATIONAL BOUTIQUES

FASHION SCHOOLS

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

PRET-A-PORTER

• Fashion Schools will provide you the training you

need to advance in your fashion career. Whether you

are interested in clothing design, fashion

merchandising, fashion marketing, or fashion in

general, they provide you with all. Here are examples

of very famous fashion schools.

• Westwood college

• Arizona fashion design schools

• Tucson design college

• California fashion design schools

• International academy of design and technology

• Brooks college

• Colorado fashion design schools

• Denver south Florida fashion designer schools

• American intercontinental university

FASHION SCHOOLSFASHION MAGAZINES

• Fashion Magazines bring the world of international fashion home. The best fashion, beauty, shopping, health,

travel and culture, trends, runway slideshows are written in these magazines.

• Vogue: magazine for sophisticated female fashion mavens. Covers the latest in beauty, style, health, fitness and

celebrities.

• Fashion office- features international trends in fashion, design, arts, and photo stories from New York, Paris, Milan.

• Bibi- bridal and fashion magazine geared towards the people of the South Asia.

• Cashak- fashion magazine covering fun, styles and trends.

• Elle- covers style and beauty trends to personalities and lifestyle issues.

• Iconique- includes catwalk shows, trends,.

• Influenza- trade publication for fashion industries.

• Flip-zone- French online fashion magazine featuring couture, ready-to-wear, bridal.

• Nirvana woman- high fashion, beauty, upscale lifestyle magazine for south Asian woman.

• Sassy Bella- Australian fashion magazine.

• Lucire- international source for latest in fashion.

• Adversus- lifestyle magazine featuring fashion, beauty.

FASHION CHANNELS

• Fashion Channels are channels on television which

are devoted to fashion and modeling. They show

everything related to fashion from fashion shows to

models.

• Fashion TV

• World fashion channel

TWO FASHION CHANNELS

GARMENT

CONSTRUCTION

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block

pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic

pattern from which patterns for many different styles can

be developed. The process of changing the size of a

finished pattern is called grading.

Fashion design runs the garment from eveningwear to

sportswear, women’s wear to menswear, and kids wear to

knitwear. Garment Construction popularly called as Pattern

Engineering has a great importance in the fashion design

industry. The companies like Van Heuson, Dockers, Levis,

Adidas etc. are all providers of perfect fit and this is what

we learn at Dezyne E’cole through the art of pattern

making.

The draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up

pattern by pinning fabric directly on a form, then

transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper

pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.

• The first clothes were made of natural

elements-:

Animal skins

Furs

Grasses and leaves

• Clothing was draped and tied, needles were

made of bones.

• Before sewing machines all clothing were

simple and hand sewn, after sewing

machines were invented, the clothing was

industry took off.

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

• Garment making is a technical accomplishment

that requires knowledge of fabrics, principles of

clothing construction and skills involved in it.

• This depends on the ability to select the correct

fabric, color, design and accessories to suit an

individual occasion.

NATURE AND PURPOSE OF DRESS

• Most obvious function of dress is warmth and protection.

• Identifying the wearer and making wearer appear more

attractive.

HISTORY

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT’S

The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements, using rulers,

curves and straight-edges. A pattern maker uses various tools such as a notcher, drill and awl to mark the pattern.

Usually, flat patterning begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern, a simple, fitted garment made to thewearer's measurements.

A patternmaker typically employs one of two methods to create a pattern.

SYMBOLS AND PATTERN MARKINGS

Onfold

Darts

Pleat

Tuck

Balance Mark

Zip Placement

Bust Point

Buttonhole

Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern

SYMBOLS AND PATTERN MARKINGS

Combine buttons

Button positions

Snap fasteners

Single notches

Double notches

Triple notches

Markings to be transferred from the pattern pieces to the fabric for matching to indicate for details

Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern

NOTCHES

• Seam allowances

• Center line

• Ease and gathers control

• Dart legs

• Identification of front and back

• Identification of joining parts

• Zipper placements

• Facings

• Hemlines

• Waist lines

• Shoulder tip

• Placement of trims and pockets

• Sleeve cap

Punches/ circles:-• Dart intake

• Corners

• Button holes/ buttons

• Pocket placement

Seam allowances:-¼ inches-

• All faced areas

• Narrow spacing

• Extreme curves

• Sleeveless armholes

½ inches-

• Side seam

• Armhole with sleeves

• Waist lines

• Center line

• Style line

Variable(1/4 to ½ inches)

• Placket or zipper

• Top stitched seam

• Side seam

1 inches

• Shoulder

2 inches

• Straight hemline

TYPES OF SEAMS

BOUND SEAM ABBUTED SEAM FLAT FELLED SEAM

TOP SEAM FRENCH SEAM

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

• A costume or garment is constructed by cutting the

fabric into parts according to a pattern which fits the

human form; then the different parts

are joined together by sewing.

FINISHES

• Finishing is a final process given to garments-

• Gives a good appearance

• Desirable feel

• Impart certain durable properties

1. Stiffness

2. Softness

NECKLINE FINISH- PIPING

PIPING – Piping is a bias strip of fabric on 1 ¼” wide and is attached to the neckline on the seam line after starching.

The piping is finished either by heming or machine stich it is finished to about 1/8” to ¼” wide ready on the right side of

the garment it is a popular finish for necklines.

Here are several steps of preparation to finish a neckline threw piping -

1. Take measurement of

neckline.

2. Mark a bias strip which is

1.5“ wide and length

according to neck + seam

allowance.cf 3. Cut the strip.

4. Pin this strip at neck.

NECKLINE FINISH- FACING

SHAPED FACING- A shaped facing is cut following the shape of the neckline and its attached on the right side and

then it is completely turned in. the width of this facing varies for each design but is generally 1-1/2”

3. Cut the strip.

4. Pin this strip at neck.

1. Trace the neckline on fabric 2. Mark a bias strip which is

1.5“ wide and length

according to neck + seam

allowance.

GEOMETRY

As since from childhood we are using geometry. We worked through our geometry boxes. As we grew up we came to

see that geometry is everywhere. Geometry is seen in plants, mountains, human figure, architects and many more. The

things which we take in daily use like pen, pencil, rubber, boxes, scales, etc. are also based on geometry.

• Geometry is the combination of shapes, lines, and forms.

• Things that are available in market are in rectangular shapes- copy, boxes, rubbers, sharpeners, pencil, etc.

• In geometry we can find how circles can be used in myriad ways to create geometrical shapes and patterns.

• From Ancient times geometry could be seen in the dresses. Pyramids were constructs through geometry.

• Geometry is all about GOLDEN RATIO.

• Everything on earth is based on FIBONACCI SERIES i.e. human figures.

• Things based on Fibonacci series looks beautiful and elegant.

When I entered in the field of FASHION DESIGNING I came to know that all the cuts on the dresses are based on

geometry. Garment construction totally depends upon geometry. The patterns are developed through geometry.

So, presently I am working on a project which is based on geometry, as geometry fascinated me a lot.

In the subsequent pages you will be able to see how geometry has been used to create different patterns.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new floral pattern is

created by the help of a

circle

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new 4 sided floral

pattern is created by

the help of a circle

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new square pattern is

created by the help of a

circle in which a square

is developed.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new hexagonal and

diamond shape pattern

is created by the help

of a circle in which a

square is developed.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new triangular and

square pattern is

created by the help of a

circle in which a square

is developed.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new floral pattern is

created by the help of a

circle in which a square

is developed.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new 6 sided floral

pattern is created by

the help of a circle in

which a square is

developed.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new hexagonal pattern

is created in which a

floral pattern is also

developed inside the

hexagons by the help

of a circle in which a

square is developed.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new big hexagon is

developed along with a

6 hexagons inside it

with a 12 triangle

pattern is created by

the help of a circle in

which a square is

developed.

PLAYING WITH CIRCLES

• It’s the drafting page in

which circles are used

in different manners to

create a wonderful new

pattern.

• As we can see that a

new 12 side geometric

pattern is created by

the help of a circle in

which a square is

developed.

THE ANCIENT WORLD

This civilization reached impressive level of development.

• Clothing & accessories-including protective armor

& talismanic were used .

• Fine linen was woven on the banks of the Nile of Egypt.

• China was the main to produce the silk .

• The Greeks & Romans created fantastic wool Tapestries.

• The Etruscans crafted ornate , tooled metalwork.

STARTING POINTS

• The time come when Style & Shape comes in a dress

• Two pieces of material are connected to form a garment.

• The another major thing evolved in this era was Embroidery came.

• The embroidery is majorly done on Neck Hem, Shoulders and Wrist.

CYCLE OF FASHION

• The elegant draperies of classical Greek and roman.

• 2. Ancient Egypt’s massive jewelry & the Kohl-eyed, black bobbed “CLEOPATRA LOOK”

• If the cloths people wore in the distant past often look remarkably modern and familiar because the styles are

continually revived through cycle of history.

CLEOPATRA LOOK ELEGANT DRAPERIES

FASHION FROM STONE AGE

(500,000-100,000BCE)

• Hides of animals were worn as a first clothing

(40,000BCE)

• The earliest bone needle date

back to 30,000BCE

30,000BCE

• People used Ochre, Hematite,& Charcoal to

decorate their own bodies

(1,900BCE)

• Jewelry started to play an important role.

• Colored glass & semi precious gems were also used.

PREHISTORY-600CE

FROM FUNCTION TO IDENTITY

The Prehistory time has the impressions

of :-

• Bone sewing needles, reindeer horn

buttons, amber necklaces , etc.

• Furs were dated back from

prehistoric time period.

• T-Shaped Tunic was worn.

• Stitching has been used sometime.

JEWELLERY

• Bone, stone & shell jewelry were

used in prehistoric time.

• Gold was prized item which was

used.

Geometric

patterns

impresses

with a stylus

Early Bronze Age

Gold lunula

MINOAN CULTURE

WOMEN’S CLOTHING

• Minoan ideas was accepted

by Egypt and Greece.

• Men wore peaked, caps, wrapped

loin cloth.

MEN’S CLOTHING

Women wore flounced skirts , Embellished sleeves

and hats.

ANCIRNT EGYPT(3150BCE-30CE)

MEN’S CLOTHING

• Clothing worn by Egyptians was of Linen.

• Minimal cutting was there & clothes was simple.

• Egyptians used Indigo Dyed wigs.

• Men’s wore a SCHENTI cloth wrapped around the hips

which hung fold in front.

WOMEN’S CLOTHING

Women wore a KALSIRIS(Sheath like dress) with

detachable sleeves

INDIGO DYED WIGS

WOMENS CLOTHING

QUEEN NEFERTITI

A beaded dress worn by Egyptian women

This beaded dress is having

3000 cylindrical & disc – shaped

colored beads

2400BCE

Hems fringe of mitra shells

Beads glazed in green, blue,

black, brown

High waistband

• Decorative collar circles her neck & shoulders.

Most famous image of Queen Nefertiti From

Egyptian museum 1350BCE

• Nefertiti wears a flat-topped crown with decorative

ribbon & a symbol of cobra.

STYLE IN THE EAST

• China was the main center for silk fiber

• They included highly patterned , light reflective

fabrics.

• The T-shaped kimono –style garment

(having wide sleeve) they wore.

WIDE SLEEVES

SASH IN CONTRASTING COLOR

TUBULAR SKIRT

UPTURNED SHOES

The type of dress worn by

Chinese people

Robe wrapped around

the body

Richly Embroider Dress

Diagonal Front of robe

Contrasting Silk Border

STYLE IN THE EAST

GREECE

STYLE IN THE EAST

Greek wore CHITON(Tunic) up to Knee – length, with long

sleeves & held up at the waist.

CROWN OF

LAUREL LEAVES

CLOAK OF

WOOL

GALLICAE

(KNEE HIGH BOOTS)

The type of dress that

Influenced the Greece

Period

The another costume wore by Greek people was

PEPLOS

As with Tunic this garment is

managed by the wearer &

may be wore with the belt.

This pepols was made from

Wool

GARMENT FALLS IN

HEAVY FOLDS

LINEN

UNDERSHIRT

NATURAL OPENINGS

CREATED FOR ARMS

BROOCHES

ROMAN EMPIRE 509-476BCE

WOMEN’S CLOTHING

• Only the emperor can wore PURPLE TOGA .

PURPLE BORDER

INDICATES HIGH STATUS.

TOGA DRAWN

OVER THE HEAD

• Women's basic garment was stola which hung in

pleats from shoulders .

• The brooches which they use for fastening

considered as “FIBULAE”.

• Over stola they wore

“PALLA” a kind of shawl.• Leather sandals or boots

protected the feet.

ROMAN EMPIRE 509-476BCE

HAIR STYLES

• The memorable garment of roman

male dress. was “TOGA”, basically asemi circle piece of fabric

MEN’s CLOTHING

• A subucula (simple tunic )

was worn underneath.

• They wore shoes

known as

“CALCEI”.

• Men generally keep their hair short

• Women used to curl their hairs through the hot metal

rods.

• Hair pieces & wigs were used in this culture.

WOMEN’S HAIRSTYLE

CURLS WERE MADE

USING HEATED METAL

CURLING TONGS

HAIR POMADES & CREAMS

WERE MADE FROM ANIMAL

FATS

MEN’S HAIRSTYLE

BYZANTINE STYLE

WOMEN’S COSTUMES

• After the fall of Rome in 476CE the Byzantine Style

came into existence

• This Style was the fusion of Greek, Roman ,

Middle eastern , & Oriental styles.

EARLIER ATTIRE

OF THE BYZANTINE

EMPERORS

LATER ROYAL ATTIRE

OF THE BYZANTINE

EMPERORS

• The veils & silk were worn by women

• Poor people wore plain woolen

tunics, knee-length with leggings

,boots & a cloak on the top

BYZANTINE STYLE

MEN’S COSTUME

EMPEROR;S ATTIRE

•The T-shaped tunics & cloaks worn by men

CROWN INLAID WITH JEWELS

JEWELS HANGING

AROUND FACE

LARGE FIBULA HOLDS

MANTLE IN PLACE

GOLD & SILK WOVEN

TABILON ( DECORATIVE

PANEL)

SHOES EMBROIDED &

ENCRUSTED WITH PEARLS

BYZANTINE STYLE

MEN’S COSTUME

EMPERESS ATTIRE

•The T-shaped tunics & cloaks worn by men

PADEED HEADDRESS

CALLED PROPOLOMA

STRINGS OF PEARLS

AROUND FACE

IMPERIAL DECORATIVE

COLLAR

JEWEL-EMBLISSHED

PANEL AT WAIST

SEMCIRCULAR CAPE

CALLED A MANTION

EMBROIDERED SHOES

COLLECTION

MARKET RESEARCH

• In order to gain an understanding of current fashion

stock and ranges across market level, the designers

need to conduct “COMP SHOP” this term refers to

competitor, retail outlets, stock and comparing this

stock with each other.

• Quality of fabric construction and detailing are carefully

studied along with prices and origin of manufacturers.

• It provides a great deal of information like planning and

selling fashion collection.

• Finally, it will be the fashion buyers who make the

decision to order fashion.

• Decisions based on-

1. Historical knowledge of customer

2. Quality of merchandise

3. Exclusivity, price and stock in previous season

HOW TO START COLLECTION

• Any successful or financially viable collection

require an enormous amount of research.

• Designers, manufacturers have information of their

customers need.

• In addition to creation of any collection we need to

consider a lot of consideration.

THEMES FOR COLLECTION

• Designer selects theme, color, type of fabric, place,

history, event.

DESIGNING FOR COLLECTION

• Designing builds of theme and includes number of

garments, to be done. From paper pattern to muslin

sample, adjustments, accurate pattern, samples in

fashion fabric and various colors in three month

period.

COLLECTION AND THEIR INFLUENCES

• ARCHIVISM

In a fashion context, archivism refers to the way in which designers look back to previous collections for inspirations. In

particular the original aesthetics of all well established label may be revisited decades later, with collection referencing

the same design influences and detailing. Designers such as Karl Lager field for Chanel and John Galliano for Christian

Dior continue to refer the fashion houses iconic statements, playing with scale, logo and accessories,. These designers

continue to update the signature of past. These fashion sources fluctuate in importance and influence due to trend

directions and fashion ever changing aesthetics.

KARL LAGERFIELD

CONCEPTUAL INFLUENCES

The origin of contemporary conceptual fashion may well be credited to the Japanese designers Rai Kawakubo, Yohoji

Yamamoto, Issey Miyake. For decades these designers have been producing the most intriguing, provocative fashion

by creating new ways of cutting and constructing. Conceptual collections are often beautiful, timeless, ageless, and

dislocated from most visual narratives, however they can also be challenging, abstract. There is usually little or no

decoration to obscure the essence of proportion, cut, finishes, or quality, of fabric, used

REI KAWAKUBO YOHOJI YAMAMOTO ISSEY MIYAKE

GLOBAL INFLUENCES

International developed the world and influence knowledge Japanese Kimono, Chinese Cheongsams, Indian Sari,

Tartans, Jacquard, Ikkat, Paisley, Russian Prints went on refining and developed into new fashion collections.

CHINESE CHEONGSAMS RUSSIAN PRINTS PRINTS

FORM AND FUNCTION

Functional garment like military wear and expeditions clothing, work wear and utility clothing fall under this category of

design there performance erogenous of the wearer activities and environment are paid attention while designing.

SPORTS WEAR

• Cary Williams, Calvin Klein got attached by camouflage and silhouette. Calvin Klein created military inspired

PARKA.

• The SAFARI JACKET, riding jacket, cargo pants.

CALVIN KLEINPARKA JACKET SAFARI JACKET ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

DRAPING

TWO FASHION CHANNELS

PRET-A-PORTER

• Fashion Channels are channels on television which

are devoted to fashion and modeling. They show

everything related to fashion from fashion shows to

models.

• Fashion TV

• World fashion channel

DRAPING

WHAT IS FASHION DRAPING?

• Draping technique is the technique means the way of

fabric changing.

The method of draping includes stitching the garment by

use of loosely hanging material to create flowing effect.

Draping needs ability to do exact fitting, fall and fullness.

Fashion draping is an important part of fashion

designing. It’s the process of positioning and pinning

fabric on dress to develop the structure of garment

design. It’s done with muslin. Fashion designers

drape garments in sections- front & back bodice,

front and back skirt. Only the right side of the fabric

is draped.

PROCESS OF DRAPING

MECHANISM DRAPING?

• Pieces of muslin are cut and prepared. It includes-

measuring, blocking, marking grain lines.

• Fabric is pinned to dress form and positioned to form

darts, tucks, to give shape and fit to the garment.

• Once the design is achieved, marking of seam lines

darts etc. are marked on muslin.

• After marking muslin is removed and laid on flat table

for trueing for giving smooth curves.

• Again the muslin is pinned on dress form along with

pinned darts to check fit accuracy.

• Muslin is removed and pressed flat to transfer markings

on paper, creating sewing pattern.

Designers have to consider many aspects while

draping fabrics like, material and GSM of fabric.

Materials like chiffon, satin, silk are used in draping.

Drape meter was used to determine a drape

coefficient. It contains a number from 0 to 100 in

written format.

Eg. Satin and muslin clothes have good draping

property than twill hosieries.

T NCE IQUEH

SURFACEDE IGN

SURFACE DESIGN TECHNIQUE

• Surface design encompasses the coloring, patterning, and structuring of fiber and fabric. This involves creative

exploration of processes such as dyeing, painting, printing, stitching, embellishing, quilting, weaving, knitting, felting,

and papermaking, manipulation.

SHIBORI COLLAR SCREEN PRINTING

FABRIC PAINTING

EMBROIDERY

• Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread. It may incorporate other

materials like, metal strips, pearls, beads quills and sequins.

• Stitches used- chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch.

PRINTS

• PRINTING is a process for reproducing text and images using a master form or template.

• Earliest examples- Cylinder seals, Cyrus cylinder, and Cylinders of Nabonidus.

For designing garments one has to have a good knowledge of elements and principles of design.

The elements play a major role in development of any design. Elements like line, shape, color, value, texture are used

as structural and decorative way on a garment so that the appearance comes out beautiful and pleasing.

In the subsequent pages I have presented how basic prints can create optical illusion on the garment.

Prints are decorative elements which can create beautiful textures on the garment. In this portfolio I have presented

using Photoshop the basic prints dress form. For designing garments one has to have a good knowledge of elements

and principles of design. The elements play a major role in development of any design. Elements like line, shape, color,

value, texture are used as structural and decorative way on a garment so that the appearance comes out beautiful and

pleasing.

In the subsequent pages I have presented how basic prints can create optical illusion on the garment. Prints are

decorative elements which can create beautiful textures on the garment. In this portfolio I have presented using

Photoshop the basic prints dress form.

AZTEC PRINT

INTRODUCTION

PRET-A-PORTER

About Aztec print

FRET PRINT

INTRODUCTION

CHEVRON PRINT

INTRODUCTION

MANIPULATIONS

TYPES OF MANIPULATIONS

TYPES OF MANIPULATIONS

TYPES OF MANIPULATIONS

TYPES OF MANIPULATIONS

SUBMITTED BY-FARMAN ASLAM

BSc. Fashion Technology (2nd year)