FAD Magazine Vol 3 No 3

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TRANSFORM. FASHION/ART/DESIGN HORACE MANN SCHOOL VOL. 3 NO. 3 SPRING/SUMMER 2012

description

As another volume of FAD comes to an end, we can't help but look back on how FAD and our lives have transformed over the past few years. On this bittersweet note we thought the theme of "transformations" was the perfect choice for this issue. From articles to photoshoots, let your eye and opinions be transformed through the lens we give you. We hope you enjoy and until Volume 4... Stay FADtastic!

Transcript of FAD Magazine Vol 3 No 3

TRANSFORM.

FASHION/ART/DESIGNHORACE MANN SCHOOLVOL. 3 NO. 3SPRING/SUMMER 2012

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design2

EDITORS’ NOTE

W hen FAD began 3 years ago, the future of this young maga­zine was unknown. Since then FAD has transformed from its inchoate stage into the con­ceptual magazine that it is to­

day. FAD’s look and feel has changed with its ever­ma­turing content; we believe this has reflected our own process of growing up. Helping us develop not just our sense of style but our sense of selves and point of view, FAD has influenced our lives in ways we could have never imagined. We can only hope that it has benefited the daily lives of our fellow students in some small way. The involvement and interest from the community at large has been such an incredible support system for us, and we are so grateful to everyone who contributes to the success of FAD. With graduation approaching, it is impossible for us to ignore the immense transfor­mations we’ve undergone, and the ones yet to come. So what better theme for our last issue than that of “Transformations.” In the following pages you will find articles highlighting the ever­evolving fashion, art, and design worlds, photoshoots that reinforce the transfor­

mative power of art, and even an interview with the architect who transformed the face of Yan­kee Stadium! No matter which way you look at it; FAD has transformed, we have transformed, and the world has transformed. There are only more changes and exciting things to look forward to in the future, and as bittersweet as our approaching departure may be, we can’t wait to continue our creative endeavors in the world ahead of us. And, of course, we wish the best of luck to our succes­sors, next year’s editors, and we hope that your already great passion and dedication for FAD only continues to grow. Thank you to everyone who has supported us along the way, and as we sign off re­member; stay FADulous.

xoxo,Rachel and Baci

Baci WeilerCo­Editor in Chief

Rachel ScheinfeldCo­Editor in Chief

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 3

Table of Contents

sponge....6

Met Gala Cannes Film Festival

reviews....8 Stein Met Exhibit Cindy Sherman Retrospective Chamberlain Guggenheim Exhibit

interviews....12

Terry Dunn: Yankee Stadium Architect Rodney Smith: Photographer

features....16

Going Green Abu Dhabi Art Movements Fashion Houses

op-eds....22

Is Print a Dying Industry? Off the Runway

into the dark....24

Beauty Photoshoot

double vision....28

Optical Illusions Photoshoot

school’s out for the summer....34

50s Inspired Photoshoot

diy....46

Galaxy Nails

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design4

Co-Editors-In-ChiefRachel Scheinfeld and Bathsheba Weiler

SENIOR EDITORSProduction Manager Seth Arar

Creative Director Noah MargulisManaging Editor Veronica Williamson

Features Editor Anna GoldbergShoot Coordinators Lia Ehrlich and Chloe Albanese

Architecture and Design Editor Billie KanferBeauty Editor Rachel Buissereth

JUNIOR EDITORSEmma Garcia, ShaKea Alston, Paige Burris

Lauren Cantor, Julia Hirschberg, Anna Carroll

ASSISTANT EDITORSMichelle Kim, Edie Comas, Julia Pretsfelder, Gina Yu

Alex Vogelsang, Jessica Heller, Shinil Kim, Mihika Kapoor

SENIOR STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERSOlivia Chigas, Lily Sands, Kim Sarnoff, Ella Landesberg

CONTRIBUTORS + STAFFGeorgie Bonondona, Diva Gattani, Rachel Ha, Natalie Imamura, Rachel Kline, Maia Landesberg, Halle Liebman, Kylie Logan, Allison Malin, Florence Ngala,

Savannah Smith, Libby Smilovici, Charlotte Chazen, Cece Glatt, Miranda Jacoby, Rebecca Shaw, Gabrielle Reid, Sophie Levy, Hannah Fink, Lucy Golub, Nicole Fortune,

Amanda Zhou, Jackie Goodman, Lizzy Weingold, Yohan Hahn, Alex Adler, Pierre Eid, Claudia Lichtenberg, Maddy Gordon, Eden Sung, Alexis Brianna-Felix, Brad McCandeless, Sarah Gertler

Faculty Advisor Alicia Hines

We would like to thank Ms. Hines, Dr. Kelly, Ms. Rubirosa, Mr. Do, Mr. Logan, Ms. Busby, Ms. Cassino, Dr. Delanty, and Dr. Schiller for their continuous support in the creation of FAD!

PLEASE NOTE: As a policy, FAD never digitally alters photos to fundamentally change

a model’s appearance, including body image and color. FAD only removes minor blem­

ishes and adjusts lighting values at the discretion of the editors and the models them­

selves. Digital editing, including the use of Adobe Photoshop, is credited where utilized.

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 5

behind the scenesf.a.d.SPRING/SUMMER 2012

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design6

EVENT NEWS...

On May 7th, the stars gathered on 5th avenue for the annual Met Costume Gala. The ball is hosted every year by Vogue Magazine, headed by the infamous Anna Wintour, and coincides with the opening of the Met’s Costume Institute Exhibit. This year the exhibit features designs by Schiaparelli and Prada. In attendance were some of the hottest stars, such as Beyoncé, wearing the designs of moguls like Dolce & Gabbana and Versace. The Costume Ball has been deemed the hottest social event of the year and is fashion’s true night out. The event is fashion’s biggest chance to show its latest designs and innovations. The Gala also features performances from stars such as Bruno Mars and Paul McCartney.–ANNA CARROLL ‘13

Fame & Glam at the Met Costume Gala

READ UP...

Carine Roitfeld, ex­editor­in­chief of Vogue Paris, has her latest fashion magazine set to hit the stands this September. It will be called the CR (her initials) Fashion Book, and each issue will be released biannually. The magazine will predominantly focus on long­format articles and spreads, and some sections include Icons, Fitness and Skincare. There will be a print edition with a $20 subscription fee and an online version for $5. Each issue will be centered on !" #$%&'(&" )*%+%,"with “Obsession”

being the theme in mock advertisements. It will debut under Fashion Media Group LLC. The premiere issue will comprise of 288 pages, including approximately 100 pages for ads featuring designers such as Gucci, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani and Cartier. The CR Fashion book

has garnered much hype in the fashion world, and with Roitfeld’s pitching it as being “trendy and timeless at the same time,” it is sure to be a success. –MIHIKA KAPOOR ‘14

CR Fashion Book on the Rise from Paris

SPONGE*SPONGE* f.a.d. recommends you check out these quick !"##$%&'!"(&"#$')*$+

WE ABSORB

CULTURE

WE ABSORB

CULTURE

SHOP UP...

The winner of the 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, French designer based in New York, Joseph Altuzarra, launched his line this month for J.Crew. The fund is organized by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue magazine to help rising fashion designers make their way into the tense fashion industry. The fund is a combination of a cash prize as well as a mentoring program for the winner. Previous winners have been Alexander Wang and Thakoon, both of which are now large names in the industry. Altuzarra describes

his collection as “French preppy” and consists of stripped “French girl” sweaters and dresses, as well as a racy spinoff of

a “cowgirl” inspired blouse. The two more popular pieces of the collection are the “Sabrina dress” and the “Corrine espadrilles.” One of the more noticeable aspects in Altuzarra’s collection is the way he kept J.Crew’s distinctive look in each of his designs. The line will be sold in J.Crew stores and online for one month and !-%" #.-%" )/" 0%" 12'34" /55" )*%"

shelves. Altuzarra’s collection for J.Crew is a match made in a preppy girl’s heaven. –CLAIRE HAYES ‘14

Match Made in Prep Heaven: Altuzarra for J.Crew

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 7

NOW TRENDING...

The popular loud and spunky neon colors, which joined us last spring, have followed through to the spring of 2012 – only, they’ve been toned down just a notch. This season, we’re looking at soft and elegant pastels, in shades of green, pink, blue, and lavender. Vogue.com offers a “Guide to the Best Accessories for Spring” featuring great fashion items from bags to sunglasses for inspiration, such as a light pink Furla Candy purse, timeless Chloé Jerry rings, sky blue Oscar de la Renta wedges, and lavender Ray­Ban sunglasses. Every one of the items is a great accent )/"!" 6'4*)"!37"!'-2"/.)()" '3"3%%7"/5" #/+%"color. Though most of the items are above anyone’s window­shopping price range, each piece offers new ideas for stunning #$-'34" /.)()#" !37" %+0/7'%#" 8*!)" )*'#"year’s chic pastel spring is all about for the world’s top designers.­KYLIE LOGAN ‘14

Punching with Pastels for Spring/Summer

FESTIVE TIMES...

While New York might have the Met Costume Gala to make its annual red carpet splash, across the globe in the south of France, the glam have gathered to make some statements of their own. This year’s Cannes Film F e s t i v a l has been yet another testament to the strength of style and talent that is '3(6)-!)%7" '3"our world. From the red carpet fashion to the premieres to the parties, this coastal paradise has been alive while celebrating )*'#"2%!-9#".$&/+'34"(6+#"!37"5%#)':')'%#;"Amongst the screenings and late night extravaganzas, festival participants and other visitors can head on over to the Hotel Martinez to see an exhibition of exclusive photographs of the iconic movie star, Marilyn Monroe. Nearby this show of glamour, many premieres of new movies

were on the reel. One movie shown at the festival was “Moonrise Kingdom,” which was no easy feat for costume designer Kasia Walicka Maimone who had to create hundreds of handmade khaki

Boy Scout uniforms for the movie. Along with the fashion and the events, L’Oréal Paris commissioned a 250­page coffee table book titled “ I n s i d e s C a n n e s : The Golden

Edition,” celebrating all of the faces of the illustrious festival. The Cannes Festival is a stylist’s dream as they prepare their clients for the multiple appearances and premiers. From the showing of Jack Kerouac’s On the Road to the power couples strutting the red carpets, this year’s festival is not lacking of star power.­RACHEL SCHEINFELD ‘12

Can’t Miss theCannes Film Festival

WATCH IT...

The Artist on the Runway

<*%3")*%"06!&="!37"8*')%"#'6%3)"(6+">*%"Artist hit theaters, it took the runway by storm. The Artist brought back legendary styles from the 1920’s. Designers like Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Etro, Alberta Ferretti and Gucci were all inspired by this successful movie and showed slim, straight 1!$$%-" #'6*/.%))%#" !37" ?-)" @%&/" 06!&=Aand­gold beaded loose sheaths for this spring. Costume designer Mark Bridges used the texture of sequins in the movie, as there is certainly a glitter about Hollywood. You will be seeing these sequined designs !" 6/)" )*'#" #$-'34;" B$%&'(&" 7%#'43#" 6'=%" 5.-"collars, art­deco patterns, fringe, sequins, faux jewels and loose­fringed dresses will all be hitting stores. It’s amazing how The Artist can bring back these beautiful 1920’s designs.­CHASE KAUDER ‘17

SEE IT...Keith Haring at the Brooklyn Museum

Work from the early career of renowned 20th century American artist Keith Haring is now on display at the Brooklyn Museum. >*'#"'#")*%"(-#)"6!-4%"%C*'0')"/5"8/-=#"5-/+"this period of Haring’s career, from 1978­DEFG;"H!-'34"8!#"!"IJI"!37"4-!5()'"!-)'#)"!37" 0%5-'%37%7" '31.%3)'!6" #)-%%)" !-)'#)#"like Jean­Michel Basquiat. Haring himself was also a street artist and began making political art early in his career. He became a constant in New York’s downtown artist culture. His work often features thick lines, :'0-!3)"&/6/-#,"!37"&!-)//32"(4.-%#;"H!-'34"used a variety of different materials, such as video works and paintings on canvas. Many works, such as Haring Paints Himself into !"K/-3%-,"8*'&*"8!#"H!-'349#"(-#)"8/-="/5"video art, are on display, and many of these works have never been seen before. The exhibit was curated by Raphaela Platow and is at the Brooklyn Museum until July 8th. ­ANNA CARROLL ‘13

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design8

Keeping Up with the Steins

A fascinating new exhibit at the Metro­politan Museum of Art, “The Stein’s Col­lect: Matisse, Picasso, and the Parisian Avant­Garde,” enables visitors to step back in time and view many of the works of art previously owned by members of the Stein family. The exhibition traces the history of the Stein’s art collections and examines the relationships between members of the family and their artist friends including Henri Matisse and Pab­lo Picasso. The exhibition demonstrates )*%"#'43'(&!3)"'+$!&)")*!)")*%"B)%'3#"*!7"on the emerging and relatively unknown artists of their day. The exhibition in­cludes paintings, drawings, and sculp­ture by artists including Paul Cezanne, Edgar Degas, Paul, Gauguin, Henri de Toulouse­Lautrec, Edouard Manet, Au­

guste Renoir, Juan Gris and many others. In the early 1900s, Gertrude Stein, her brothers Leo and Michael and Michael’s wife, Sarah, settled in Paris and started buying the works of cutting edge artists that were neither famous nor expensive at the time. Works by Picasso and Matisse 8%-%"!+/34")*%'-"(-#)"$.-&*!#%#;"L'&*!%6"and Sarah favored Matisse; Gertrude and Leo preferred Picasso. The Steins made their collections available to the public through their weekly Saturday evening salons at their apartments. Friends and acquaintances, including artists, writers and musicians, were invited to their Sat­urday salons to view the new collections. Through their salons, the Steins intro­duced the public to what was considered radical or revolutionary art. The exhibit

includes a visual re­creation of the Stein’s living room (salon) through the use of photographs projected on the walls of the room to convey the way in which the art was displayed in their crowded apart­ment.The Stein’s collection of art was sold and dispersed over the years. The exhibit gathers and reassembles a majority of the works that were collected by members of the Stein family. Highlights of the ex­hibit include Matisse’s Fauvist “Woman With a Hat,” and “Blue Nude,” Cezanne’s, “The Bathers,” Picasso’s, “Boy Leading a Horse,” and a portrait of Gertrude Stein. K/+$-'#%7" /5" $*/)/4-!$*#," 0//=#," (6+"and other artifacts including Gertrude Stein’s will the exhibition at the Metro­politan Museum of Art is a must see!

REVIEWS

Paige Burris ‘13 reviews the

Metropolitan Museum of

Art’s showing of the family

that changed the face of art.

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 9

Transformative photography is probably the best way to describe the retrospective exhibition of Cindy Sherman’s photogra­phy currently on display at MOMA. The exhibition includes over 170 photographs of this renowned American born pho­tographer. Most of the photographs are of the artist dressed up in costumes with elaborate make­up and inventive poses. Sherman uses props to transform her im­age in front of the camera into the various characters. The photographs appear to be scripted and choreographed much like a movie.

Sherman typically creates her work in a series. The rooms in the show are arranged chronologically. Her earliest works is a se­-'%#"/5".3)')6%7"(6+"#)'66#")*!)"!-%"+!7%")/"resemble publicity pictures taken on old movie sets. There is also a series of over­sized photographs devoted to aging society women. In another series, Sherman makes allusions to historical paintings by artists such as Raphael, Fragonard, and Cara­vaggio. There are also a number of photo­graphs of Sherman dressed up in different clown costumes. A number of photographs in the exhibition have a distorted quality

to them. In some of her later works, Sher­man digitally alters her image. Regardless of the subject matter, the photographs all have a feminist overtone. The exhibit is on view until June 11 be­fore traveling to the San Francisco Muse­um of Art. A number of the photographs can be viewed online at http://www.moma.org/interactives/exhibitions/2012/cindysherman/

To many, an automobile junkyard is nothing more than a pile of metal; to the late John Chamberlain how­ever, this was his clay. American Sculptor John Cham­berlain is amongst the creative minds of the past few 4%3%-!)'/3#" )*!)" 4-%!)62" '31.%3&%7" )*%" 5!&%" /5" !-);"H%"went beyond the boundaries of what was known and ac­cepted as art and created larger than life sculptures out of the parts of automobiles. Through crushing, molding, and creating; he was able to create vibrant works that +!7%"#.&*"!3".3.#.!6"+%7'.+"'3)/"+!43'(&%3)"#'4*)#;"After his passing last year, the Guggenheim in New York honored the work and life of this great artist through a retrospective in their NY location. The museum it­self and its spiral composition creates a unique view­ing experience for any exhibit, so to combine the heavy masses of crushed car sculptures with its delicate inte­rior was a work of art within itself. The show exhibited everything from his early period works to small models that would be later transformed into large pieces. This retrospective is a must see, and proved that Chamber­lain is a name that will go down in history. As acclaimed artist Donald Judd once wrote, “The only reason Cham­berlain is not the best American sculptor under forty is the incommensurability of ‘the best’ which makes it ar­bitrary to say so.”

REVIEWS

Chamberlain at the Guggenheim: Junkyard Art

A Woman of Many Faces: Cindy Sherman. A Retrospective.

by Rachel Scheinfeld ‘12

by Paige Burris ‘13

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design10

AROUND THE BENDWhat will you be wearing this summer?

TREND

NEON SPORTY

by Julia Hirschberg ‘13 & Paige Burris ‘13

Prada

Jil Sander

Many designers are incorporating neon into their collections this

season, whether they are accenting their designs with it or creating

full­on neon looks. Neon green, yellow, pink, blue, and orange can be

seen on spring t­shirts, pants, shorts, dresses, blazers and even shoes.

Wear neon to create a fun summer look.

Sporty designs are no longer made by the likes of just Nike. Sportswear

is hitting the streets, and I’m not talking about Juicy Couture tracksuits.

Alexander Wang, among other designers, has designed tailored bomber

jackets and track pants, too stylish to be worn to a workout class. De­

signers such as Guiseppe Zanotti, Balenciaga, Alexander Wang, Pierre

Hardy, and Maison Martin Margiela have created funky and futuristic

sneakers. Slip on a pair and you’ll look both stylish and be comfortable:

you’ll have the best of both worlds.

Get ready for fun in the sun wear­

!"#$%$&'(()$'*+,-!.+/$0%12$30+$(+,4+51$&'(()$0%1$!-$%$67-1$have accessory for a day at

the beach, a stroll through

central park, or an excit­

ing tour of a big city.

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 11

POINTY TOE HEELS

PALAZZO PANTS LEATHERED ALIVESkinny jeans? Not this season. Flowy and wide­leg pants are taking

over spring and summer fashion. Designers such as Missoni, Rag &

Bone, and Etro are making pants this season that can’t be missed. If

you want to mix up your wardrobe and be able to breathe, give the

skinny jeans a rest and slip on a cute pair of wide­leg pants.

You don’t need to own a motorcycle to look sly in a full on leather out­

812$$9+%10+,$!-":1$;7-1$4'7"/$'"$-0'+-$',$;%5<+1-$%")6',+=$>+%10+,$0%-$found its way into spring as shorts, t­shirts, dresses, and even sun­

#>%--+-2$$30!-$-+%-'"?$6%")$/+-!#"+,-$%,+$6!@!"#$!1$7($%"/$5,+%1!"#$purple, white, orange, or red leather pieces. As cool as leather can be,

it’s not going to keep you cool on a hot summer day, so don’t whip out

a pair of leather shorts and a leather t­shirt in 90 degree weather!

Pointy toe heels are no longer worn by people stuck in the ‘80’s or an

'485+$57A!5>+2$$30+)$0%*+$4'7"/$10+!,$B%)$'"$1'$6%")$,7"B%)-$%"/$,+/$5%,(+1-2$$30+)$%,+$-'(0!-1!5%1+/$%"/$->++<$%"/$%$67-1$4',$10!-$-+%-'"2$$30+)$5%"$A+$-++"$!"$%")10!"#$4,'6$A>%5<?$1'$"7/+?$1'$0'1$(!"<2$$C'7$5%"$10,'B$'"$%$(%!,$1'$>''<$50!5$%"/$1'$-(!5+$7($)'7,$'71812

OVERSTATED BAROQUE

D,+--$1'$!6(,+--$!"$>%*!-0$%"/$'*+,-1%1+/$'7181-2$E',<$F%,'G7+$styles this summer with embroidered fabrics and bold looks. Be dar­

ing and experiment with chunky jewelry and over the top accessories.

Include high heels and anything metallic. Don’t be afraid to include

some extra bling. For inspiration on how to embrace the over the top

F%,'G7+$50%,6$>''<$1'$H755!:-$-(,!"#$%"/$-766+,$IJKI$5'>>+51!'"2

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design12

How did you come up with the design for the new Yan­!""#$%&'()*+#,-"#%."-"#&/0#12"3(43#25&3"1#06)#'-"7#(/­spiration from?From the Babe and his called home­run shot off the Cub’s Charlie Root in the ‘32 series, to Joltin’ Joe Dimaggio’s 56­game hitting streak in 1941, to the Mick and Roger Marris’ home­run duel in 1961, to Jeter’s home­run to left, capping 3000 hits in 2011, the new stadium needed to pay homage to the rich histo­ry of the Yankees. The Populus design for the new stadium was based on the proposed design of the 1923 stadium by the Osborn Engineering Corp, “the house that Ruth built”, which interest­ingly enough was a bit different than what was eventually built. We were incredibly lucky to have the original vellums (signed by Joe DiMaggio no less) to use as a point of departure. Other de­signs were presented and rejected, including one with a retract­able roof that lasted only as long as the presentation meeting. I’ve included some pictures of the original stadium on opening day and the new stadium for comparison. The same arched facade with attic windows separated by pilasters used on the original stadium became the organizing element on the new, although clad in Indiana Limestone taken from the same ledge as that used for the Empire State Building in lieu of the cast concrete used in the original. As the Yanks told us, they wanted the ghosts that haunted the old stadium to be comfortable in the new.

867#'6#06)# %-0# %6#*&(/%&(/#&/'# 1.67# %."#9&/!""# 5":­&30+#867#'('#06)#36*;(/"#%.(1#5":&30#7(%.#<)/3%(6/#%6#*&!"#&#7"55='"1(:/"'#1%&'()*+The Yanks were adamant that their new home feel as comfort­able and as lived­in as their old, so numerous features of the old stadium were recast in the new and I’ve included a few ex­amples below. As the fences had been moved numerous times over the years, there was a huge discussion as to the preferred 7'+%3#'/3#"5/-")*%"3%8,"!37")*%"(3!6"&/3(4.-!)'/3"/5")*%"DEMN"

renovation was eventually settled upon. Distance down the lines and to center are the same; the power alleys, as everyone knows, 8%-%"#6'4*)62"+/7'(%7")/"!&&/++/7!)%")*%"#%!)'34;"?#")*%"-'4*)"(%67"$/-&*"8!#"#/+%8*!)"3%!-%-,"!37"*/+%A-.3#"8%-%"12'34"/.)"/5")*%"#)!7'.+"7.-'34")*%"(-#)"*!65"/5")*%"(-#)"#%!#/3"OP"0%6'%:%"the new Stadium was referred to as a “band­box”), we were quite anxious to demo the old stadium to remove the wind­tunnel af­fect that our preliminary wind studies had pointed to. After win­3'34")*%"B%-'%#")*%"(-#)"2%!-,")*%"Q.%#)'/3#"*!:%"#/+%8*!)"7'%7"down. As the renovation in 1974 had stripped away many of the fea­tures of the original stadium, it was immensely important that the Frieze (the feature that caps the leading edge of the up­per canopy) and Memorial Park were recreated... you can get a glimpse of the original frieze in Gehrig’s farewell speech on July 4 of 1939 on YouTube. The original frieze was of copper and was stripped off during the last renovation, leaving only a vestige !0/:%")*%"/.)(%67"8!66;">*%"/-'4'3!6"5-'%R%"8!#"$.-%62"7%&/-!)':%S"the new frieze was designed to provide structural bracing to the upper canopy.The “Eagle Medalion” that surmounted the original Gate 4 was reinterpreted and mounted above the new entrance (albeit in a lightweight material). The clay maquette was sculpted by an art­ist based in Long Island, and the bronze casting was installed inside Gate 4 at gound level; the auxiliary scoreboard in the out­(%67"8!#"-%'3)%-$-%)%7"!37"-%'3#)!66%7S")*%"4-/.37#=%%$%-#"3/8"man the board, but the room behind was originally intended for “guest­keepers” to manage the board during the game.Something not discernible from the seats but which is indica­tive of the Yank’s desires to honor the old stadium is the seat­ing and room numbering in the new stadium. After completing 7%#'43" !37" (6'34" )*%" 7-!8'34#," %:%-2" 7//-," -//+" !37" #%!)"8!#"-%3.+0%-%7"#)!-)'34"!)")*%"-'4*)"(%67"$/-&*"!37"+/:'34")/8!-7")*%"6%5)"(%67"$/-&*,"#!+%"!#")*%"/-'4'3!6"#)!7'.+;

Project Manager, Tishman Speyerthe yankees a fixture of new york culture, and everyone re-

members when the new yankee stadium was opened in 2009. paige burris ‘13 and anna carroll ‘13 pick the architect’s

brain about the ambitious and historic project.

INTERVIEWS

TERRY DUNN

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 13

“ “

867#56/:#'('#%."#2-63"11#%&!"#<-6*#;":(//(/:#%6#"/'+After a few years of stasis as the Yanks searched for alternate locations, design work started in earnest in May of 2005; opening day was April of 2009.

>.&%#7"-"# 16*"#6<# %."#*&?6-# 3.&55"/:"1# 06)# <&3"'# (/#36*25"%(/:#%."#2-6?"3%+>*%" !$$-/:!6" $-/&%##;" ?#" )*%" 3%8" (%67" 8!#" 0.'6)" !&-/##" )*%"street from the old, we needed approvals from City, State and Federal agencies. Thanks to the Department of Parks & Recre­ation for shepherding us through the labyrinthine bureaucracies.

867#7&1#%."#2-6?"3%#4/&/3"'+#How much did it cost?The project cost for the stadium was $1.3 billion dollars, which in­cluded both hard costs (bricks and mortar) and soft costs (professional fees and services, i.e. Architects, Engineers, Geotechnical Engineers, %)&T" !37" 8!#" (3!3&%7" )*-/.4*" )!CAexempt bonds backed by the New York City Industrial Development Agency.

Do you have any interesting or funny stories from the project?A few... we were in Frankfurt, Germany with the Design and Construction teams meeting with the vendors that were fabri­cated the operable windows at the front edge of all of the par­)2"#.')%#;" "<%"*!7"U.#)"(3'#*%7"!")/.-"/5")*%"-/66'34"$6!3)"8*%3"everyone’s blackberry went off—seems some knucklehead had told a NY Post reporter than he’d buried a Red Socks Jersey in a concrete pour at the Stadium...and had pictures to prove it. We went pale, then spent the next four hours on the phone, trying to determine where the jersey was buried. As the news hit on a Fri­

day, the site supervisor, Frankie Gramarosa, armed with the cell phone picture of the burial, spent the next 10 hours jack­ham­mering concrete until he located and exorcised the Jersey—as other Boston paraphernalia were rumored to have been buried, a Wiccan showed up that Monday to exorcise the demons.The seats were also a bit of a challenge as all cast­iron stan­chions were manufactured in China, outside of Beijing. As you may recall, the 2008 Summer Olympics were held in Beijing and the air quality was questioned. To ensure that the air quality im­proved, manufacturing surrounding the Olympic sites was se­verely limited... including the plant that cast the stanchions. We

held our breath and worked over­time to catch up when manufactur­ing resumed in the fall.

What was the funnest part of designing the stadium?Opening Day, watching the fans streaming into the new Stadium and V/-4%"I/#!7!9#"(-#)"*/+%-.3;"

The updated stadium was a huge change for New York. What effect do you think this transformation had on New York? On the Yankees and %."(-#5":&30+Yankee Stadium is as iconic as the Empire State Building or the Statue of Liberty, so the project was under the microscope from the time we picked up our pencils. I don’t really consider the design of the new stadium as transformative; I consider it as -%!5(-+!)'/3"/5")*%"&/++')+%3)"+!7%"02"W!3=%%"+!3!4%+%3)"to New Yorkers that they’ll always honor the players and the fans that built and supported the team.

,/'#/67@#&#4/&5#A,B#C)"1%(6/=#9&/!""1#6<#D"%1+Yankees... how could I say otherwise?

INTERVIEWSHISTORIC MOMENTS these photos capture the history of the yankee stadium, from its original 1923 facade (below center) to its current one (below right). The original frieze that lined the roof of the stadium can be seen at left; the new stadium replicates this element, as shown below left. While of course a modern structure, the new stadium honors the history of the yan-kees in its architectural details.Photos courtesy of Terrence Dunn

As the Yanks told us, they wanted the ghosts that

haunted the old stadium to be comfortable in the new.

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design14

867#76)5'#06)#'"13-(;"#06)-#2.6%6:-&2.0+The thing that distinguishes a photograph from a picture is not only the content, but also the intent. I think many people see my pictures as telling stories. Many people have described my photo­graphs as surreal and whimsical and slightly aspirational. All of this seems appropriate. No matter how you describe the pictures, I would hope that one would say that they have a strong emotional content.

How did you discover your passion for photography?I have always been a very visual person as I grew up in a very visual family. Quite simply, when I was a junior in college and I returned home for a holiday, I went to the permanent collection at the Museum of Modern Art, by chance to look at photographs. To this day I am not exactly sure what prompted me to do this. I can remember very clearly looking at photographs by Alfred Stieglitz, Edward Steichen, Henri Cartier­Bresson, W. Eugene Smith and others, and thinking quite arrogantly that I could do this. I think what I must have felt was that I could take my feelings as these people who preceded me had done, and put them on a two dimen­sional piece of paper. From that moment on, both consciously and unconsciously, I realized this is what I wanted to do with my life.

867#'6#'"3('"#6/#1);?"3%1#&/'#563&%(6/1#<6-#06)-#2.6%6:­raphy?Mostly the pictures I shoot at this time are relatively large pro­ductions, which require models and a fairly large support team. As far as the talent goes, I choose the subjects mostly based on people

I have previously worked with and liked, or we conduct a casting to (37"3%8")!6%3);"X%3%-!662"/-"+/#)"/5)%3"P"$-%5%-"+/7%6#"5-/+"Y!#)­ern Europe. There was a time when I shot a great deal of portrai­ture, but at this point most of the subjects I photograph are people P"&*//#%")*!)"()")*%"3%%7#"5/-")*%"#*//);The locations are a totally different situation. Finding a great lo­cation has always been the bane of my existence. This is the most important aspect of my photographs, the locations. We often will #$%37"7!2#")-2'34")/"(37"!"6/&!)'/3")*!)"()#")*%"3%%7#"/5")*%"&6'%3)"/-"#)/-2,"/-")*!)"()#")*%"*'#)/-2,"$!)'3!,"!37"5%%6")*!)"P"!+"6//='34"for.

>.&%#%02"#6<#2.6%6:-&2.(3#"C)(2*"/%#'6#06)#)1"#&/'#'6#06)#'6#06)-#67/#'"E"562(/:+We use primarily a Hassleblad, which is a camera that produces !"GDZNA'3&*" #Q.!-%"3%4!)':%;" P" /362" #*//)" /3"(6+"!37" 2%#"8%"7/"$-/&%##"!66"/5")*%"06!&="!37"8*')%"(6+"'3"/.-"7!-=-//+;">*%"&/6/-"(6+"'#"#%3)")/"!"6!0"'3"[%8"W/-="5/-"$-/&%##'34;

What do you enjoy most about being a photographer?Particularly when I was young, I loved the romance and excite­ment of making pictures. Even to this day, 45 years later, I love the excuse of meeting new people and participating in the world through the camera. The picture making process has always been the most interesting and best part of being a photographer for me.

>.&%#'6#06)#4/'#*61%#3.&55"/:(/:+It is kind of sad or at least ironic that what I spent many years

RODNEY SMITHProfessional Photographer

featured in magazines including Time, Vogue, New York, and more, rodney smith’s carefully composed photographs inject fantasy into everyday settings, exploring physical and emotional landscapes. anna carroll ‘13 delves into his experiences.

INTERVIEWS

15horace mann school | fall 2011 | vol. 3 no. 1 f.a.d. magazine

of my life learning and studying in Graduate School is now consid­ered for the most part obsolete. In the middle ages what was true for your great­great grandfather was probably still true for you, but today everything changes so quickly. Photography in 10 years will be a completely different medium than it was 10 years ago. The question that is up to your generation to decide is if this is an im­provement.F6)5'#06)#1.&-"#7(%.#)1#6/"#6<#06)-#<&E6-(%"#2.6%6:-&2.1+#Why?Quite honestly, I don’t have a favorite picture. My favorite pic­ture would be a new picture that I have most recently shot, that felt original to me. There is a great excitement in doing something that you haven’t done before. This feeling lasts about a week, and then I am back to all the pictures feeling like part of a family.

What or who motivates your photography?<%66"')"'#"7%(3')%62"3/)"$/$.6!-"&.6­ture or modern art, or much of mod­ern fashion, or for that sake much of the current modern world. I guess that leaves a small window of opportunity, which motivates me. It is primarily through classic architecture, or Italian renaissance painting, or Flemish painting, or the generation /5"$*/)/4-!$*%-#")*!)"$-%&%7%7"+%;"\35/-).3!)%62"P"&!39)"#!2"P"()"/-"(37"+.&*"U/2" '3"+.&*"/5"8*!)" '#"&-%!)%7")/7!2;"P"!+"#/--2")/"say this, because this is a world that you are a part of, but for the moment the culture has made a turn down a dead end road and hopefully will right itself before too long. This is your job to help (37")*%"-'4*)"7'-%&)'/3;

Can you share any advice for students with a passion for photography?The simplest advice I can give you is that when I was young in my early 20’s and just starting out the photographic world seemed unreachable, forbidding and not very promising for me. I was luck

enough to meet a great photographer, Inge Morath, who was a member of Magnum, a photographic cooperative agency. Inge sat down and looked at my work and told me (and I will never forget this), “If you’re good, there is always room.” What was right then, I think is still appropriate today.

G."#%."*"#6<#%.(1#(11)"#(1#%-&/1<6-*&%(6/H#F&/#06)#-"5&%"#this theme to your career as a photographer?Unfortunately, I am full of stories. When I was also relatively young, in my mid­twenties, I went to see John Szarkowski, who at the time was the curator of photography at the Museum of Modern Art. Quite honestly much of modern photography owes its accep­tance thanks to him. From my perspective he was not a great voice

for photography, but he was the most powerful man in the photographic world. I went to show him my work and I remember him saying to me that my work was good, but to come back in the next few years because he was interested in seeing how my work would evolve. I remember say­ing to him with my typical arrogant demeanor, “it’s not changing, what

2/."#%%"'#"8*!)"2/."4%)]^"?37"8')*")*!)"P"8!6=%7"/.)"/5"*'#"/5(&%;"P-/3'&!662,"+2"8/-="*!#"&*!34%7"!37"%:/6:%7"#'43'(&!3)62"7%#$')%"my intentions not to. It has changed because of a number of fac­tors. The primary factor would be the needs of the clients who I was working for changed, I matured and developed, I became less seri­ous and more whimsical and found new ways to make pictures not of subjects that I had chosen; not of portraits that I had chosen, but of models that no longer had the depth of character of the people I had shot previously. So, despite myself and despite my best effort, I *!:%"&*!34%7;"_.),"P"6%!:%"2/."8')*")*'#"(3!6"Q.%#)'/3,"'#"!"&*!34%"always an improvement?

>."-"#'6#06)#4/'#06)-#3-"&%(E"#(/12(-&%(6/+Mostly from napping.

LOOK INTO THE LIGHT rodney smith’s work is notable for its meticulous lighting and composition, as well as the whimsical subject matter: men in top hats gaze at their feet or each other; women stand rigid in a clock or swooning on a cab. the worlds created are beautiful and timeless. Photos from rodneysmith.com

The thing that distinguishes a photograph from a picture

is not only the content, but also the intent.

INTERVIEWS

“ “

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design16

Going green has become a huge part of today’s society. We see blue and green bins all over the school for re­

cycling, and hesitate to buy bottled water as more and more students and faculty carry their own reusable plastic water bottles. Recently, artists (including designers) have incorporated eco­friendly or recycled materials into their work. Others have tru­ly taken on the task of turning something from trash to treasure. Erika Iris Simmons is an artist who con­structs celebrity musicians’ faces from the tape of old cassettes. The creations are startling in their imagination, attention to detail, and skill. Not only is Simmons recy­cling, but she utilizes the most appropriate material to create these portraits: recorded music. More recycling was seen at New York’s 2nd Fashion Week’s series of “Green Shows.” Models walked the catwalk in gor­geous gowns entirely composed of trash.`/-"'3#)!3&%,")*-%%"*.37-%7"!37"(5)2"&/$'%#"of the Financial Times were used to make !" #)-!$6%##" -.51%7" 7-%##S" !3/)*%-" 7-%##"was reconstituted from twenty­one plastic laundry bags. ?$-'6" GaDG" #!8" I!-#/3#9" (-#)" !33.!6"Earth Week Festival, home to events like “Recycled Runway”, in which students give new life to old clothes, leftover materials, or recycled, eco­friendly materials. b%5)/:%-"+!)%-'!6#" !-%" )2$'&!662" !"0'4"(­nancial loss for clothing companies, with 15% of the original material used for gar­+%3)#"%37'34".$"/3")*%"#%8'34A-//+"1//-;"B).7%3)#" !)" I!-#/3#" !-%" (4.-'34" /.)" */8"to produce interesting garments without wasting any fabric at all. Think of Dunkin’ Donuts, Munchkins, and donut­hole res­cue!More and more mainstream clothing stores have joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition with the goal of turning out ap­parel with no harm to the environment. Al­ready in the Coalition: Adidas, H&M, Levi

Strauss &Co., and many more. As technology advances, old computer $!-)#" !-%" #6/862" $'6'34" .$" '3" 6!37(66#," 7%­tracting from the beauty of our environ­ment. Diana Ritter has one solution. She 5!#*'/3#"/0#/6%)%"1/$$2"7'#=#"'3)/"$'&).-%"frames and colorful wall hangings. These disks would last a lifetime in garbage dumps, so why not remake them into art /0U%&)#"5/-"/.-"*/+%#"!37"/5(&%#c"Fieldston Ethical Culture School holds a 5!#*'/3"#*/8"%!&*"2%!-" '3"L!2;"?66"/.)()#"are designed and created by students using only recycled materials. The tradition began ten years ago as an end­of­year assignment for the seniors taking sculpture as their art class. Now about 80 students participate each year. Past creations have included a dress made from 50,000 beads and a skirt from Tic Tacs. Parents and friends gather in the gym to celebrate the event. This year laughs and applause echoed through the air as a teacher glided through the gym in a green toilet paper dress as another showed off his full length gown made entirely of pictures of his daughter. A senior marched around in a suit of MoMA tourist guides. The art teacher came out to quiet the crowd as another senior walked out with a dog 8%!-'34" !3" /.)()" !##%+06%7" 5-/+" [%8­man’s Own dog food bags. Another conscientious business, Long Island City’s Cake and Shake, is a street cart selling organic, eco­friendly cupcakes and coffee. The owners’ goal is to use only the simplest ingredients. The cakes contain /362" /-4!3'&" 1/.-,"+'6=," !37" %44#" !37" !66"packaging is biodegradable or composted. The cart itself is solar powered! The run­by­the­sun carts can be found in front of the Metropolitan museum and in Washing­ton Square Park. The future will see many more innova­tive ways to recycle discarded materials. As we have seen, artists, designers, and entre­preneurs have already produced incredibly imaginative products.

old is the new new: making art with recycled materials.

by edie comas ‘14

GO GREEN OR GO HOME.

FEATURES

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 17

Abu Dhabi, the largest of the seven Arab Emirates, has transformed from a desert island to a modern metropolis. Now one of the world’s richest cities and

largest producers of oil, Abu Dhabi has continued to be one of the world’s greatest civilizations. In 1980, after discov­ering that the country had 10% of the world proven “black gold” reserves, its transformation began as the wealth of the country grew at a rapid pace, drastically changing the face of this new metropolis. These reserves contribute to one of the world highest per capita incomes: $55,000 a year.Emirates Palace, a luxury hotel developed in November 2005 with a cost reaching 3 bil­lion USD, is the second most expensive hotel ever built, and is only one example of the in­conceivable transformation the country has undergone. With two swimming pools and spas, a marina, a helipad and 1.3 km of sandy beach, and impecca­bly landscaped gardens, the Emirates Palace certainly isn’t lacking in amenities. Many of the rooms are made with gold and marble. The central room of the hotel has a large pat­terned dome at its center also decked out in gold. The exte­rior is beautiful, with balconies and domes galore and gold seemingly dripping from every square inch. The attention to architectural detail is apparent in the images of the hotel. The materials, lights, archways and all the other details add even more to the luxurious feel of the hotel.Abu Dhabi has become an incredible city at an incredible pace. The development and transformation of this country from is only expected to grow as the skyline begins to rival that of the ultimate metropolis, New York City.

FROM DESERT TO METROPOLIShow the city of abu dhabi went from sand dust to gold dust

by shakea alston ‘13

SHIMMERING SURFACEthe discovery of oil in

the region propelled abu dhabi to a level of global

wealth. beneath this facade, though, lies an

ignored class of su!ering migrant workers.

FEATURES

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design18

art history is orga-nized, orderly. but it seems that contem-

porary art resists !"#$$%&!#'%()*

julia pretsfelder ‘14 explores the impli-

cations of a frag-mented art world.

FEATURES

H inton Alberg, a fictional art col­lector in Steve Martin’s novel, An Object of Beauty, describes

the art world’s transformation from being defined by movements to hav­ing “a hundred different categories… There’s ‘pale art’, faint things with not much going on in them. There’s ‘high­craft OCD’, you know, those guys who take a thousand pinheads and paint a picture of their grandmother on ev­ery one…Apocalyptic scenes of stuff flying around a room…How can we forget ‘junk on the floor’? You walk into a gallery and there’s stuff strewn everywhere...I don’t see it as silly, but outsiders do.” Despite my status as one of Alberg’s outsiders, I don’t find this silly, because I don’t want to trivial­ize one of these micro­movements just because I may not understand certain aspects of them. Even so, I feel that one of the most important ways genera­tions are remembered is through an art movement. Even though it is difficult to tell in the moment which movements will be remain in focus in the some­times­narrow lens of history, I wonder whether the constant flux of “it” trends that flit in and out of style in the worlds of fashion and art create a laudable di­versity or a woeful shapelessness. Al­though there is no lack of talent in the arts, which is something clear even at our school and in art schools through­out the world, does the absence of a dominant or transformative movement make our generation artistically insig­nificant—a mere transition from the last great era to the next?

Art’s boundaries have become limit­less, and the response to the question, “what is art?” has grown much more subjective. These qualities allow for greater diversity of thought­provoking work, yet breaking the rules of society and straying or critically responding to the rules or set motifs of past styles, shared opinions of art’s purpose, and the appreciation of certain techniques provides a transition and foundation for new art movements. Art move­ments create a new avant­garde with each transition and determine what modernity looks like for a certain pe­riod of time. For example, the artists of the Mannerist period in the 1520s responded to the High Renaissance’s fascination with perfection and pre­senting the human form realistically by featuring darkness, supernatural forms, and heightened drama, and us­ing art to express themselves. Also, when the Impressionist movement was founded in 1874, artists of the day were questioning the way modern culture understood and perceived the world. Instead of painting historic and somber subjects, which was the accepted style at the time, Impressionists wanted to depict the world through an artist’s

IS ART

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 19

FEATURES

perspective, changing from moment to moment. The French critical com­munity thought their work looked like it was painted by someone with eye disease, and that the short and visible brush strokes, brighter colors, and can­did subjects were radical and in poor taste. It is funny to think that a change in technique or depiction of nude fig­ures was offensive in the art world in the 1900s, while today the countercul­ture is the mainstream, and so many artists are making dramatic statements that subtle, possibly collective changes could go unnoticed.Another source of movement is a radical shift of perception. Paul Cé­zanne is considered the Father of Mod­ern Art for pushing the boundaries past Impressionism through the desire to move beyond perceptual experi­

ence and directly portray emotions and ideas in art. Cubism and abstract art followed, and later Surrealist art incor­porated more intellectual enterprises, and so forth. While each individual’s way of expressing himself or herself is unique, we share as a culture the same profound influences. Is it still possible for art to be wholly original, and is it still possible to transform the way one sees art through a movement? Maybe the art movement of our time is, as cliché as this sounds, that anything is possible.

ITS

ARTPAST

SPEED LIMIT

?

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design20

FEATURESTHE

REVOLVING DOOR OF FASHION

noah margulis ‘13 reports: changing leadership at top fashion houses challenges tradition and confronts modernity. but what does this mean for the identity of a brand?

“It is with the utmost respect for its tremendous history, its unparalleled knowledge and craftsmanship that I am joining the magnificent house of Dior.” Raf Simons recently announced this state­ment as he took on the role of becoming the new creative director for the eponymous fashion house. Simons continued to say, “Mr. Christian Dior has always been for me the most inspiring couturier. Around the globe, the name Dior symbolizes the ultimate in el­%4!3&%"!37"-%(3%+%3);"P"!+")-.62"*.+06%7"

and honored to become artistic director of the most celebrated French house in the world.” In the past few months, Raf Simons and Hedi Sli­mane have become the new artistic directors for two major fashion houses, Dior and Yves Saint Lau­rent, respectively. This news has made the fashion world all a twitter about what will change at these two beloved brands. The whole situation brings up the question, “what chang­es at a fashion house when a new creative director is

appointed?” Most major houses are very old, and hardly any of them have their original cre­ator or designer in charge. So what will these changes bring about? Will the new designers embracethe houses’ signature styles or infuse future collections with their own personal de­sign aesthetics? And furthermore, what does all this change mean for the future of fashion?Raf Simons, who previously designed for the forward­thinking and minimalist house Jil Sander, will become artistic director of @'/-," -%$6!&'34" V/*3"X!66'!3/,"8*/"8!#" (-%7"last year for making anti­semitic remarks. In the two seasons since Galliano was dismissed, Bill Gaytten has led the house, but critics have agreed that his collections have been predict­able and uninspired. (The house of Dior has always been famous for its ultra feminine sil­houettes and theatrical gowns.) The choice of Raf Simons culminates a yearlong discussion as to who is the ideal person to give creative direction to the 66­year­old brand. Simons was not widely considered as a candidate for Dior. His minimalist and futuristic designs seemed to clash with the signature style of Dior, which began as reaction to the dreary styles fol­lowing World War II. Christian Dior’s “New Look,” which featured nipped waists and full skirts, premiered in 1947 and gave the house ')#" -%$.)!)'/3" 5/-" %C&%##" B'+/3#9" (-#)" &/66%&­tion for the house will appear in late July. He’s

OLD HATpictures of the traditional house of dior, including christian dior himself.

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 21

FEATURES&')%7" '31.%3&%#" 5-/+" *'#" 6/:%" /5"+.#'&" O$!-­ticularly David Bowie and Kraftwerk) and of Mid­Century Modern Architecture (some of his collections for Jil Sander seem to be direct representations of the work of Jean Royére or V/*3"b!.)3%-T;"_.)"8*'&*"/5"*'#"'31.%3&%#"8'66"shape his work for Dior is unknown. One can hope he carries over his modern approach to design, which at a major fashion house such as Dior can put the whole fashion world into a forward­think mood. Hedi Slimane has a history of working with the major French fashion houses, having been the Creative Director for the menswear division of Yves Saint Laurent and for Dior Homme. His appointment as Creative Director will give Sli­+!3%")*%"(-#)"&*!3&%")/"&-%!)%"!"8/+%3#8%!-"

collection, and with virtually nothing to base it off of, the fashion world will wait with bated 0-%!)*" 5/-"*'#"(-#)" &/66%&)'/3;"B6'+!3%" '#"0%#)"known for changing the silhouette of men’s fashion to super skinny in the late 1990’s dur­ing his time at Dior Homme. Slimane’s design aesthetic is similar to that of Raf Simons, so as Raf Simons takes on Haute Couture and Sli­+!3%")!=%#"/3"8/+%3#8%!-"5/-")*%"(-#)")'+%"there is likely to be some rivalry between the two fashion houses. But rivalry aside, given the '31.%3&%" /5" )*%#%" )8/" 6!0%6#,"+/7%-3')2" !37"minimalism will likely gain awareness by be­'34"#%%3"'3")*%"*'4*"$-/(6%"&/66%&)'/3#"/5")*%#%"two household names.

SHOES TO FILL right, hedi

slimane, the new artistic director

for the house of yves saint

laurent.below, looks from

his collection.

SLIM JIMabove, looks from raf simons’s col-lections for the minimalist house of jil sander. he is replacing john galliano as artistic director of dior.

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design22

OP-EDS

DON’T STOP THE PRESSES.the print industry is being

threatened by new technology. can the centuries-old medium

stand up to its competitor?

by emma garcia ‘13

With the internet and technology on the rise, the pub­lishing and print industries are fearing the approach­ing, inescapable burial of print. Over the past few years, technological advances have brought into question the necessity of print. With Kindles, iPads, and virtually any­thing with access to the Internet, we have the ability to learn about breaking news as it happens, annotate an !-)'&6%,"-%!7"!"3/:%6,"!37"+.&*"+/-%d!66"!)"/.-"(34%-­tips, instantly accessible. It is evident at this point that the opportunities that technology offers seem to equal, if not surpass, those of print. Even beyond that, the use of products such as E­readers is much more “green” than that of print because it utilizes fewer of our precious natural resourc­%#;"<*'6%" ')"+!2"0%"7'5(&.6)" )/"come to terms with, it seems that today’s technology will be the assassin of the centuries­old institution of print. Since the introduction of E­readers to the market, their sales have risen exponentially. There are many reasons to buy an E­reader in place of its ink­on­paper counterpart—sellers like Amazon can /55%-"#'43'(&!3)62"6/8%-"$-'&%#")*!3"$.06'#*%-#,"!37")*%'-":'-).!6"#)/-%#"!-%"'3(3')%62"+/-%"&/3:%3'%3)")*!3"%:%3"!"Barnes & Noble down the street. Plus, the buyer can feel eco­friendly, “saving trees” by downloading thousands of virtual books instead of devoting a library to as many print books. I can’t argue against the fact that carrying around a Kindle is much easier than carrying around #%:%-!6"0//=#;"H/8%:%-,")*%"&6!'+#"/5"&/#)"%5(&'%3&2"!37"environmental responsibility are disputable. It’s very possible that purchasing an E­reader becomes more ex­pensive than purchasing books even though it eliminates the cost of paper. For one, there’s the initial fee of acquir­ing an E­reader, and then, you must purchase books for it. E­books have in general been cheaper than print ver­sions, but now publishing houses are raising complaints that this undercutting is unfair to them and to the au­

thor. Consequently, most new books are sold at compa­-!06%"$-'&%#"'3"%')*%-"5/-+!);">*%"'3)%-%#)#"/5"$-/()"+!2"prevent the trend of ultra­cheap books from continuing, proving E­readers to be as expensive as, or maybe even more expensive than real books.E­readers may be touted as “green,” but this claim is not foolproof. Although E­readers don’t consume paper, they have other, comparably negative impacts. Their manufacture requires heavy metals like mercury, which can also have a negative impact on the places where it

is mined, and necessitates a lot of energy, both during and after manufacturing. Both the print and the E­reader industries have large carbon footprints on our environment. There is, though, a way of determin­ing which is in fact the greener choice. Taking into account the entire carbon footprint of creat­ing and vending an E­reader, a user must read at least 70 E­books before replacing an E­reader in order to offset the ef­

fects of an E­reader on the environment versus that of print books.Despite the debate over the true superiority of virtual reading, technology is inexorably expanding into what was once exclusively print’s territory. And print is unde­niably dwindling. But I don’t expect that print will ever go extinct. There’s something special that paper offers that technology simply can’t simulate. The sensory ex­$%-'%3&%"/5" !"0//=" '#" &/+$6%)%62" ')#"/83S"2/."&!39)"1'$"through the pages or scribble notes in the margins of a Kindle. There’s no spine to crack on a Nook. And as yet, the iPad doesn’t have an app for that intoxicating smell of aging paper. These aspects of print have led me to contin­ually prefer print books to electronic ones. No one knows the fate of the print industry, but I think that our nos­talgia for traditional, imperfect media (think Polaroids) will give books a foothold even as technology progresses beyond imagination.

+(,-!#).'-/%0-'12(,31-'14-pages or scribble notes in the margins of a Kindle. There’s no spine to crack on a Nook. And as yet, the iPad doesn’t

have an app for that intoxicat-ing smell of aging paper.

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 23

OP-EDS

WALK OFF THAT RUNWAY

the fashion runway has been the influence of style for centu-ries. do we reflect the runway or does the runway reflect us?

by kylie logan ‘14

“Fashion is a means of self­expression that allows people to try on many roles in life. Whether you prefer hip­hop or Cha­nel­chic, fashion accommodates the chameleon in all of us. It’s a way of celebrating the diversity and variety in the world in which we live.” Thus Cynthia Durcanin, International Fashion Editor, sums it all up. Fashion is truly a way of showing one’s story, without telling it. Social decorum dictates we must wear clothing all the time, but it is not just an obligation. We use it as an implement for sharing not only how we feel today,

but how we felt yesterday, and how we hope to feel tomorrow – our life story. The most comforting aspect of fashion is that we don’t need to stay the same; in fact, things get a lot more interesting if we don’t. In our teens, we may go for the bohemian vibe as a way to let problems wash over us and in our twenties, we may shift to a

classic look, ready for a more structured life. The truth is that no matter what one wears, we’re displaying a little piece of our sentiment, the way

we want to be portrayed at that given moment.So then, isn’t it true that fashion is all about change? There is always a lot of chatter about the latest trend, complaints about the rapid pace in which fashion changes, and talk over what the upcoming fad will be. What we continuously fail to remember is that we are next year’s style. Fashion is created “by people for people.” Durcanin mentions, “…the street is the real barometer of style. More and more designers are

drawing their inspiration from life on the street…A teenager can throw something together without thinking about it and

it can trigger a new trend.” This may well explain why the runway is such an impor­tant tool in the fashion industry. Fashion shows tell the dramatic stories of each line by a certain designer; with runway models strutting the clothing and pouting their

faces, moody music that envelopes the whole moment in a blanket of heightened emotions, those watching are able to imagine themselves in a world where they, too, are wearing

the clothes in their own life.

The show essentially picks pieces one may see in a cata­logue and makes them hyperreal. “I like the ritual, the liturgy of a well­crafted, emotional fashion show,” Hedi Slimane, $-/+'3%3)"5!#*'/3"(4.-%"#!'7"'3"!3"'3)%-:'%8"8')*"B)26%;&/+,"“The ‘catwalk’ is pure anthropology…” Surely, it is. The run­way is as much about the artistry of the clothing as it is about the people who will wear them. There is a sort of progres­sion in the show, a transformation of character. As models &/3)'3.%")/"#)-'7%"7/83")*%"-.38!2,"%!&*"/3%9#"/.)()"&/33%&)#"to the other but gives a different interpretation. The small

changes, whether they are in the form of length, fabric, or color, represent actual changes in our own lives. ?#"#'43'(&!3)"!#")*%2"!-%,"!-%"-.38!2#"really essential? Well, they may not be vital to anyone’s health in particular, but they certainly create a crucial impression /3")*%"8/-67;"P)"'#"7'5(&.6)")/"7%32")*!)"fashion is also about showing off. Aside

from telling a true story about ourselves, clothing often brings out the part of us we might have trouble showing through other means. In order to tell our full story, fashion has to show off who we’ve always wanted to be as well – or in other words, )*%"1!86%##,"$%-*!$#"'+!4'3!-2"$!-)"/5"/.-#%6:%#;"e.38!2"shows do that and more, as they are extravagant productions of not only who we are, but also who we could and want to be. They certainly make us want to buy the clothing, for this is, of course, one of the prevailing points of an expensive fashion show, and they do this by overproducing and dramatizing a #$%&'(&")*%+%"'3"/.-"$%-#/3!6"6':%#,"8*%)*%-"')"0%"%&#)!#2"/-"even revenge. Either way, we relate to the anthropological fac­tor of runway shows, which is always stretched past boundar­ies to get us to think a little bigger about our own lives. Then, it must also be true that not only do we inspire fash­ion shows with our utterly real style, but also fashion shows )-!3#5/-+".#"'3)/"8*/"8%"8!3)")/"0%&/+%;">*%2"-%1%&)"0!&="on us, showing us our true selves in over­the­top perfor­mances. But, sometimes, that’s what it takes to understand who we really are.

Runway shows are extrava-gant productions of not only who we are, but also who we

could and want to be.

NIGHT

COLORED

ALIVE

TWO-FACED

I OFTENTHINK THAT

THAN THE DAYVINCENT VAN GOGH

RICHLY

IS MORE

AND MORE

stage fright

NIGHT

COLORED

ALIVE

I OFTENTHINK THAT

THAN THE DAYVINCENT VAN GOGH

RICHLYAND MORE

Night can bring out the best - and worst - in a person. Man has long been fascinated with creatures of the night, from vampires to were-wolves. In this photo-shoot we chose to por-tray night as a life force, inspiring a more vivid form of living.

Photographed by Baci Weiler ‘12 Beauty by Baci Weiler Modeled by Rebecca Segall ‘12, Janet Lu ‘12, Natasha Stolovitzky-Brunner ‘12

show night

NIGHT...WHEN MANREASSEMBLES

FRAGMENT

HIS

SELF THOU WERT NOT SENT FOR SLUMBER!ARY

SAINT-EXUPÉRYANTOINE DE

night out

morning after

MOST GLORIOUS NIGHT!

THOU WERT NOT SENT FOR SLUMBER!LORD BYRON

night owl

early bird

DOUBLE VISIONDOUBLE VISIONDOUBLE VISION

DOUBLE VISIONDOUBLE VISIONDOUBLE VISIONcolors so bright your eyes hurt? well,

double that. these pages will assault your eyes, test your perceptions, and hopefully leave you wanting to inject some neon into your style, too.

styled by paige burris ‘13photographed by gina yu ‘14modeled by lia ehrlich ‘12, jackie 3((56#)-789:-/(24)!4-)3#"#-78;assisted by julia pretsfelder ‘14, julia hirschberg ‘13, rachel buissereth ‘13, alex vogelsang ‘14, emma garcia ‘13

digital editing by seth arar ‘12

Photo by Gina Yu ‘14. Model Lia Ehrlich ‘12. Shirt by Paige Burris ‘13. Styling and

makeup by shoot assistants.

things are not what they seem

Photos by Gina Yu ‘14. Model Jackie Goodman ‘14. Dress by Paige Burris ‘13. Styling and makeup by shoot assistants.

the world isn’t all black & white

Above: Photo by Gina Yu ‘14. Model Florence Ngala ‘13. Skirt by Paige Burris ‘13. Styling and makeup by shoot assistants. Right: Photo by Gina Yu ‘14. Model Jackie Goodman ‘14. Styling and makeup by shoot assistants.

tickled pink

SCHOOL IS OUT

SUMMER

FOR THE

as the weather turns warm and classes come to an end, joy can be accompanied by a certain sense of nostalgia. thoughts of the coming summer always bring back memories of past summers. in this photo-shoot, we dove deep into an imagined past, exploring the golden days of 50’s teenag-ers. we had good, wholesome fun, but clas-sic looks don’t have to rule out sass.

SCHOOL IS OUT

SUMMER

FOR THE

styled by rachel scheinfeld ‘12 makeup by rachel scheinfeld with assistance from shakea alston ‘13, anna caroll ‘13, and

emma garcia ‘13 photographed by rachel scheinfeld, paige burris ‘13, gina yu ‘13 shoot assisted by emily erani ‘12, sarah

pyun ‘12, shakea alston ‘13, anna caroll ‘13, emma garcia ‘13, michelle kim ‘13, julia pretsfelder ‘13 models (all class

of 2012): seth arar, pierre eid, brad mccandless, alex adler, yohan hahn, maddy gordon, claudia lichtenberg, lizzy wein-

gold, sarah gertler, alexis brianna felix, eden sung.

photos edited by seth arar.

REBEL

WITHOUT

A CAUSE

Photo by Rachel Scheinfeld. Models Alex Adler, Seth Arar, Pierre Eid.

REBEL WITH A CAUSE Photo by Gina Yu ‘14.

Models Seth Arar and guest Hannah Weiler.

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design38

POPPhoto by Rachel Scheinfeld. Models Maddy Gordon, Lizzy Weingold, Alexis Brianna Felix, Eden Sung, Sarah Gertler, Claudia Lichtenberg.

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 39

40

DOUBLE TROUBLE above: Photo by Rachel Scheinfeld. Models Claudia Lichtenberg and Yohan Hahn. Opposite: Photo by Gina Yu ‘14. Models Claudia Lichtenberg and Pierre Eid.

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design42

C H E E R S

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 43

C H E E R S

Photo by Rachel Scheinfeld.Models Lizzy Weingold, Yohan

Hahn, Claudia Lichtenberg, Alex Adler, Eden Sung, Seth

Arar, Alexis Brianna Felix, Pierre Eid, Maddy Gordon,

Brad Mccandless, Sarah Gertler.

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design44

H U R R A H

Photo by Rachel Scheinfeld.

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 45

H U R R A H

f.a.d. magazine fashion | art | design46

nails to the galaxy & beyond gina yu ‘14

inspired by rookiemag.com’s galaxy nails

you’ll need:- white matte nail polish- dark base coat- shimmery pink/red color- light, clear, glitter polish- shimmery green color- makeup sponge (cut into small pieces for easy use)- toothpicks- pair of scissors- corrector pen (optional)

step 1:Paint your nails with a dark bottom coat. Make sure that there are no thin areas.

step 2:

step 3:Repeat step two, but this time with the green color. Don’t worry if the green doesn’t per-fectly cover the white, it just needs to cover it.

step 4:Same thing as step two and step three, but with the red.

step 5:

step 6:Finally, add a coat (or two) of your glitter polish and a top coat and voila! The universe at your fingertips!

Take the white nail polish and on any disposable surface (I used a news-paper) and put a drop of it on the surface. Using the tweezers, take your small piece of makeup sponge and dab it in the nail polish, dab it on the disposable surface so there’s no excess, and then dab it LIGHTLY on each nail. The white will act as a base for your “nebula.”

This is the tricky part. Put more white nail polish onto the disposable sur-face, and with a toothpick, transfer tiny amounts of the nail polish so it surrounds your “nebula.” These will be your “stars.”

and you’re done! the universe is now at your !"#$%&'()***enjoy!

DIY: do it yourself

horace mann school | spring/summer 2012 | vol. 3 no. 3 f.a.d. magazine 47

Thank you to everyone who has made Volume 3 of FAD Magazine possible.

We’ll miss you!

Congratulations to next year’s editorial board!Co-Editors-in-Chief Paige Burris & Veronica Williamson

Creative Director Noah MargulisManaging Editor Anna Caroll

Features Editors Julia Hirschberg & Emma GarciaProduction Manager Gina Yu

Beauty Editor Rachel BuisserethAssistant Editors Julia Pretsfelder & Michelle Kim

step 2:

step 3:

facebook.com/hmFADmag

fadmag.wordpress.com

twitter.com/hmfadmag

issuu.com/fadmag

youtube.com/user/fadmag

have a great summer!