Facial Makeup
description
Transcript of Facial Makeup
Facial Makeup
Chapter 24 – 12’
Main Objective Emphasize most attractive features/accents Minimize less attractive features/flaws For most people makeup should be subtle Application will vary from person to person
Structure of the face Color of eyes, skin and hair How the client wants to look Results that can be achieved realistically
Cosmetics for Facial Makeup
Foundation Used as a base or protective film applied before
makeup and/or powder Evens out skin tone Conceals minor imperfections Protects skin from the climate, dirt and debris Oil based - normal to dry skin types
Liquid, stick, cream-to-powder, tinted moisturizers Water based – oily skin types
Water based liquid, cream-to-powder, or powder – matte finish
Color primer – applied before foundation top cancel out & disguise skin discoloration
Green – redness Lavender – sallow or yellowish Amber – dark purplish
Foundation Chemistry Cream –
Dry to normal skin Medium to full coverage Oil-based
Liquid – Oily to normal skin Sheer to medium coverage Matte finish Water-based
Powder – Oily skin Dry to powdery finish
Using Foundation Success of the entire makeup application
depends on the correct color selection and application of the foundation
Skin tone determines foundation color Test at jawline Too light – dull chalky Too dark – muddy or splotchy Line of demarcation – obvious line where
foundation starts or stops
Classified as warm, cool, neutral Warm
Yellow, orange, red-orange Cool
Blue, blue-green (olive), blue-red (pink), Neutral
Equal amounts of warm and cool tones FYI – page 759
Foundation should always match as closely as possible to the actual skin tone
Apply at jawline to get the best match possible Color should “disappear” Remove from container with a sanitized
spatula Applied to the face with a sponge
Mineral Foundation Applied with a large fluffy brush Kabuki Brush
Concealers Used to cover blemishes and discolorations,
dark eye circles, dark splotches and may be applied before or after foundation
Contain more talc or pigment for heavier coverage
Available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks
Wide range of colors Contain
Moisture or control oil, treat acne and oiliness, anti-aging and moisturizing benefits
Here’s a Tip Page 760 -
Pots are the heaviest and provide most coverage
Pencil gives a sheer to medium coverage and may contain some moisture
Wand is usually sponge or brush tipped, fluid consistency
Tube or stick medium to sheer and may be used as a foundation
Concealer Chemistry and Use
Chemical composition is similar to cream foundation
Removed from container with a spatula and applied with a sponge or brush
Place sparingly over blemishes and blend with sponge
It is IMPORTANT to match color to skin as close as possible! If too light can appear “raccoon –like” and draw
attention to problems
Face Powders A fine cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted and
scented Used to add a matte finish Improves overall attractiveness by enhancing
skin’s natural color, helping to conceal minor blemishes and discolorations and toning down excessive color and shine
Used to set the foundation
Absorb excess oil Minimizes shine of oily skin
Face Powder Chemistry Loose and pressed Powder base mixed with a coloring agent and
sometimes perfume Bactericides are added to inhibit the growth of
bacteria and preserve the product (powder)
Talc or cornstarch with color pigments added Translucent – do not contain much color
Using face Powder Light and medium weights - dry to normal skin
types Heavier weight – normal to oily Powder should match well with the natural skin
tone and work well with the foundation Should never appear caked, spotted, or streaked Apply using a fresh cotton puff remove excess
with brush Pressed – compact and easy to carry for quick
touch-ups Loose is best for use at home
Cheek Color Blush, blusher, rouge Cream, liquid, dry (pressed) or loose powder
used to color the cheeks beneath the cheek bone (zygomatic)
Gives natural glow to the face and helps to create more attractive facial contours
Cheek Color Chemistry Oil based formulas – combinations of
pigments in an oil or fat base Blends of waxes and oily liquids create a
water-resistant product Cream – contain water, thickeners and
surfactants that enable particles to penetrate hair follicles and cracks
Using Cheek Color Cream or gel – dry to normal skin - applied
with facial sponge Liquid – all skin types – blends well – applied
with facial sponge Dry (pressed) – matte finish – most widely
used – applied with a cotton puff or brush Loose powder - variety of shades – applied
with brush or cotton puff
General Rules for Application
Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear (remember the triangle – outside corner of eye to
corner of nose to top of ear – draw in book bottom of pp. 760)
Do not extend color above the outer corner of eye
Do not apply in bright round circle – blend color so it softly fades into foundation
Lip Color Lipstick or lip gloss Cosmetic paste usually in a tube Variety of colors Color the lips Enhance or correct the shape of the lips Some contain sunscreen Moisturizers help to keep the lips becoming
dry and cracked
Lip Color Chemistry Creams, glosses, pencils, gels, sticks All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes Castor oil is the primary ingredient Color agents Waxes
Using Lip Color Artistry and a keen sense of fashion needed to
select appropriate colors Consider the client’s preferences, eye color,
skin tone, and lip shade Apply directly from the tube ONLY IF IT
BELONGS TO THE CLIENT! Otherwise apply with disposable lip brush
Begin at outer corner of the upper lip and work towards the middle – repeat on opposite side
Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes following natural lip line
Repeat on bottom lip working from corners in and connecting in the middle
Aim for symmetry and balance
Lip Liner Colored pencil used to outline lips Helps to keep lip color from feathering or
bleeding Usually applied before lip color to ensure
proper shape and definition of the lips Chose color on fashion trends or one that
compliments and coordinates with lip color
Sharpen pencil and wipe with clean tissue before and after each use
Sanitize sharpener after each use Line lips beginning at corner of upper lip and
work toward the middle Repeat on opposite side Connect the center peaks with rounded strokes,
following the natural lip line Outline the lower lip from the corners in Apply liner to lips for color staying power
Eye Shadow Applied to the eyelids to accentuate or
contour Variety of colors Used wet or dry Finishes – metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or
dewy
Eye Shadow Chemistry Stick and cream - water based with oil Water – resistant have a solvent base (mineral
spirits) Pressed and dry – compressed with binders so
as not to fall apart
Using Eye Shadow Makes eye appear brighter and more
expressive Matching shadow color and eye color creates
a flat field of color and should be avoided Use colors other than eye color - contrasting
or complimentary Light and dark colors can bring attention to
the eyes
Darker shades make iris appear lighter Lighter shades make iris appear deeper Makeup selection should enhance client’s eyes
the client’s eyes Color choices should be subtle for daytime Colors may match and coordinate with client’s
clothing Referred to as highlight, base, and contour
colors
Highlight lighter than skin tone and may have any finish Lighter color will appear larger
Base color is generally a medium tone close to skin tone Used to even skin tone Applied all over the lid and brow bone, form lash to
brow Other colors applied after, providing a smooth
blending Matte finish is usually preferred
Contour color, in any finish, is deeper and darker than skin tone Applied to minimize a specific area To create contour in a crease Define the eyelash line
Remove with spatula and apply with fresh applicator or clean brush
Remove and apply with unused disposable brush
Apply close to lashes, sweeping color slightly upward and outward
Blend
Focus On - 761 762 763
Here’s a Tip – 764 765
Eyeliners Used to outline and emphasize the eyes Variety of colors Pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), felt tip pen Create a line close to lashes to make eyes
appear larger and lashes fuller
Eyeliner Chemistry Pencils have wax (paraffin) or hardened oil
base (petrolatum) Soft and hard form Used on both upper and lower lids
Liquid and cake Caution Box PP 764
Using Eyeliner Most prefer color same color as lashes or
mascara for a more natural look More dramatic colors may be chosen
depending on trends and own style Apply with extreme caution Have a steady hand and make sure the client
remains still Sharpen with pencil and wipe with tissue
before and after each use
Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Apply in short strokes and gentle pressure,
close to the lash line Powder application – scrape a small amount
onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator
Wet the brush first for a more dramatic look
Eyebrow Color Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add
color and shape to the eyebrows Darken the eyebrows Correct their shape Fill in sparse areas
Eyebrow Color Chemistry Similar to eyeliner pencil Ingredients in eyebrow shadow similar to eye
shadow
Using Eyebrow Color Sharpen with sharpener and wipe clean with
tissue before and after each use Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Powder shadow application – scrape a small
amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator
Avoid harsh contrasts between hair and eyebrow color
Mascara Used to darken, define and thicken the
eyelashes Liquid, cake, and cream form Variety of shades and tints Brushes (wands) can be curved or straight
with fine or thick bristles Enhances natural lashes, making them appear
longer and fuller Lashes should be darker than eyebrows
Mascara Chemistry Polymer products
Water, waxes, thickeners, film-formers, and preservatives
Pigments Rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken hair
fibers Pigments – must inert
Unable to combine with other elements
Using Mascara Used on both upper and lower lashes Apply from inner to outer corners Dispose of wand NEVER DOUBLE DIP!!!!!!! Apply carefully Most common in jury is poking the eye with
the applicator Curl lashes before applying mascara
Other Cosmetics Eye makeup removers – used to remove
makeup Oil based - are generally mineral oil with
fragrance added Water based – are a water solution to which other
solvents have been added Plain soap and water is sometimes ineffective
Grease paint – heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes
Cake or pancake makeup – Shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a
moistened sponge Gives good coverage and used to cover scars and
pigmentation defects
Makeup Brushes and Tools
Powder brush – large, soft to apply powder and blend edges of color
Blush brush – smaller more tapered brush used for applying blush
Concealer brush – narrow, firm with a flat edge
Lip brush – narrow, firm with a tapered edge
Eye shadow brushes – variety of sizes – small to large, soft – firm The softer and larger the brush the more diffused
and blended the shadow will be A firm brush is better for depositing dense color
than for blending Eyeliner brush – firm, tapered, firm bristles
Angle brush – firm, thin bristles Lash and brow brush – comb-like brush used
to remove excess mascara on lashes or to comb brow into place
Tweezers – metal or plastic - used to remove excess facial hair
Eyelash curler – metal or plastic used to give lift and upward curl to upper lashes
Caring for Makeup Brushes
Commercial sanitizer can be used for quick cleaning
Spraying cleaner over a long period of time can dry out brushes
A gentle shampoo or brush solvent should be used Will not hurt bristles and may help them last
longer
Caution: - the brush should always be put into running or still water with the ferrule pointed down
If brushes are pointing up- water may remove the glue holding the bristles in place
Rinse brushes thoroughly after cleansing Brushes will dry in the shape they are left in Reshape wet bristles and lay flat to dry State Regulatory Alert - 766
Disposable Implements Sponges
variety of shapes and sizes Apply and blend foundation
Powder or cotton puffs – velour or cotton – used to apply and blend powder
Mascara wand – plastic – one use only! Spatulas
wooden or plastic Wide, flat base
Disposable lip brushes – one time use only! Sponge-tipped shadow applicators – apply
shadow and lip color or to blend eyeliner Cotton swabs – apply shadow, blend eyeliner,
remove unwanted makeup from eyes or lips Cotton pads or puffs – apply astringents or
makeup removers, apply powder products Pencil sharpener – used before and after each
application of pencil cosmetics
Makeup Color Theory Everyone sees colors differently It may take awhile for you to see color
naturally and easily
Primary colors – cannot be obtained from a mixture Blue Red yellow
Secondary colors – mix equal parts of two (2) primary colors Orange Green violet
Tertiary colors – mix an equal a mount of a primary and the adjacent secondary colors Red-orange Orange-yellow Yellow-green Green-blue Blue-violet Violet-red
Complementary colors – primary and secondary colors opposite each other on the color wheel Red – green (Christmas) Yellow – violet (Easter) Blue – orange (almost Halloween) These colors cancel each other out to make a
neutral brown or gray When next to each other they look brighter
Warm and Cool Colors Warm –
Red Yellow orange
Cool – Blue Green violet
Selecting Makeup Color Three main factors
Skin color Eye color Hair color
Determining Skin Color 1st
Light Medium dark
2nd
Warm Cool Neutral - equal amounts of warm/cool
Warm colors Yellow and gold Oranges Red-orange Most reds Some yellow-greens
Cool colors Blues Greens Violets Blue-reds
Reds Orange based – warm Blue based - cool
Greens More gold – warm More blue - cool
Light skin color Light tones – soft natural look Medium to dark tones – more dramatic look
Medium skin color Medium tones – understated look Dark or light tones – striking and vivid
Dark skin color Dark tones – most subtle Medium to medium-light tones- striking and vivid
Be cautious choosing tones lighter than the skin
If too light skin will appear gray or chalky Look for translucent or shimmery colors
Complementary Colors for Eyes
Neutrals will always be safest choice Have both warm/cool Work well on any skin tone, eye color, or hair color
By contrasting eye color with complementary colors – emphasize the color most effectively
Complementary Colors Blue eyes – orange
Contains yellow and red Make eyes look bluer Gold, warm orange/brown
peach, and copper Red-browns
mauves and plum Neutrals
taupe or camel
Green eyes – red Red shadows tend to make the eye look tired or
bloodshot Pure red tones not recommended Brown-based reds
Red-orange, red-violet, Coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauves, purples
Brown eyes – neutral Any color Contrasting colors
Greens, blues, grays, silvers
Adding Cheek and Lip Color
Coordinate with same color family as the eye makeup
Choose neutrals – coordinate with any makeup colors
Hair Color and Eye Color Hair color needs to be taken into account
when determining eye makeup colors Table 771 Table 24 – 2 Here’s A Tip page 771
Reviewing Color Selection Steps
1. Determine skin level: dark, medium, light2. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool,
neutral3. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown etc.4. Determine complementary colors5. Determine hair color: warm, cool
6. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors
7. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within the same color family: warm, cool neutral
8. Apply Makeup
Client Consultation Listen closely and try not to impose your own
opinions Your role is:
To hear your client’s wishes Concerns To make recommendations based on your
knowledge
Consultation Area Clean Tidy Clean brushes after each use Tidy makeup area daily Portfolio - your own pictures Magazine layouts
Lighting Adequate and flattering Be sure client’s face is evenly lit without dark
shadows Natural light best choice Combination of incandescent (warm and most
flattering) and fluorescent (cool) Make sure light shine directly and evenly on
the face
Makeup Consultation Visually assess client to understand their
personal style Engaging the client in conversation will help
determine their needs
Gather information on Skin conditions How much or how little is normally worn Daily versus special occasion makeup Amount of time spent applying makeup Colors likes or dislikes Any makeup the client is having trouble with
Special Occasion Makeup Here’s a tip - Page 774 & 775 Time for you to work your magic Subdued lighting:
More definition for eyes, cheeks, and lips Add drama by applying false eyelashes and
shimmery colors on eyes, lips, cheeks or complexion Wedding:
Matte colors are recommended Shimmer may reflect too much light
Special Occasion Makeup for Eyes
Striking contour eyes Page 773
Dramatic Smoky Eyes Pages 773 - -774
Special Occasion Makeup for Cheeks
Use darker blush under cheekbones to add definition Add brighter, lighter color to apples of cheeks and
blend Use cheek color with shimmer or glitter over
cheekbones for highlight
Special Occasion Makeup for Lips
1. Apply lip liner to, fill in lip line with pencil, and blot
2. Add similar color in lipstick over entire lip area3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips
Activity: color faces
Corrective Makeup All faces are interesting in their own special
way, but few are perfect These tiny imperfections can make the face
more interesting if treated artfully Facial makeup can create the illusion of better
balance and proportion when desired Caution box
Basic rule for makeup is that highlighting emphasizes a feature and shadowing minimizes it
A highlight is produced when a cosmetic, usually foundation is lighter than the original foundation is used on the a particular part of the face
A shadow is formed when the foundation is darker than the original color
The use of shadows minimizes prominent features so that they are less noticeable
Analyzing Features and Face Shape
Emphasize attractive features and minimize less attractive
Goal of effective makeup is to enhance the client’s individuality, not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard
Oval-shaped Face Face is divided into three (3) equal horizontal
sections (pp. 775 figure 24-21) 1st – 1/3 hairline to top of the eyebrows 2nd – 1/3 top of eyebrows to the end of the nose 3rd – 1/3 end of nose to the bottom of the chin Oval face is approximately ¾ as wide as it is long Distance between the eyes is the width of one
eye
Round Face Broader in proportion to its length Rounding chin and hairline Makeup applied to:
slenderize lengthen the face
Square-shaped Face Comparatively straight lines Wide forehead Square jawline Corrective makeup applied to:
offset the squareness soften the hard lines
Triangular (Pear-shaped) Face
Jaw is wider than forehead Corrective makeup is applied to:
create width at the forehead Slenderize the jaw Add length to the face
Inverted Triangle (Heart-shaped) Face
Wide forehead and narrow pointed chin Corrective makeup applied to:
minimize width of forehead Increase width of jawline
Diamond-shaped Face Narrow forehead Greatest width is at cheekbones (zygomatic
bones) Corrective makeup applied to:
reduce width across cheekbone
Oblong Face Greater length in proportion to its width than
the square or round face It is long and narrow Corrective makeup is applied to:
Create illusion of width across cheekbone (zygomatic bone)
Making the face appear shorter
Forehead Area Low forehead
Application of lighter foundation lends a broader appearance between brows and hairline
Protruding forehead Apply a darker foundation over prominent area to
give an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face Suitable hairstyle will also draw attention
away from the forehead FYI – page 776
Nose and Chin Areas Large or protruding nose
Darker foundation on the nose Lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the
nose Creates fullness in the cheeks and makes nose appear
smaller Avoid cheek color on nose
Short or flat nose Lighter foundation down center of nose Makes nose appear longer and larger If nostrils are wide apply darker foundation to both
sides of nostrils
Broad nose Darker foundation on sides of nose and nostrils Avoid darker foundation on laugh lines - it will
accentuate them Carefully blend foundation to avoid visible lines
Protruding chin and receding nose Shadow chin with darker foundation Highlight nose with lighter foundation
Receding chin Highlight chin with lighter foundation
Sagging double chin Use darker foundation on the sagging portion Use natural skin tone foundation on the face
Jawline and Neck Area Blend foundation onto the neck so the client’s
color is consistent from face to neck Set with translucent powder to avoid transfer
onto client's clothing Broad jawline
Apply darker shade of foundation over heavy area of jaw – starting at the temples
This will minimize the lower part of the face and create an illusion of width in the upper part of the face
Narrow jawline Highlight by using a lighter foundation shade
Round, square, or triangular face Apply a darker shade of foundation over the
prominent part of the jawline By creating a shadow over this area the prominent
part will appear softer and more oval
Small face and short, thick neck Darker foundation on the neck Will make the neck appear thinner
Long thin neck Lighter shade of foundation on the neck This will create fullness and counteract the long
thin appearance of the neck
Corrective Makeup for the Eyes
Round eyes Lengthen by extending eye shadow beyond the
outer corner of the eyes Close-set eyes (closer than length of one eye)
Lightly apply shadow up from outer edge of the eye
Protruding or bulging eyes Minimized by blending shadow carefully over the
prominent part of the upper lid Carrying it lightly toward the brows Use a medium to deep shadow color
Heavy-lidded eyes Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the
edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket
Small eyes Extend the shadow slightly above, beyond, and
below the eyes Wide-set eyes
Apply shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid toward the nose and blend carefully
Dark circles under eyes Apply concealer over dark area, blending and
smoothing into surrounding area Set with translucent powder
Deep-set eyes Use bright, light, reflective colors Use the lightest color in the crease Light to medium color sparingly on the lid and
brow bone
Eyebrows Well-groomed eyebrows are a part of the
complete and effective makeup application The eyebrow is the frame for the eye Overgrown eyebrows can cast a shadow on
the brow bone or between the eyebrows Over-tweezed eyebrows can make the face
look puffy or protruding, or may give the eyes a surprised look
To correct eyebrow shape
Remove all unnecessary hairs and demonstrate how to use an eyebrow pencil
Ideal eyebrow shape can be drawn in three (3) lines Page 781 Figure 24-53 1st – vertical from corner of nose to inner corner of
the eye (eyebrow begins) 2nd – corner of the nose to the outer corner of the
eye ( eyebrow ends) 3rd – vertical from the outer center of the iris
(highest part of the arch)
Adjustments to Eyebrow Shape
Low forehead Low arch gives more height to a very low forehead
Wide-set eyes Extend the eyebrow line to the inner corners of
the eye Be careful not to give a frowning look
Close-set eyes Widen the distance between the eyebrows and
slightly extend them outward
Round face Arch the brows high to make face appear narrow Start directly above the inside corner of the eye and
extend to the end of the cheekbone Long face
Make the eyebrows almost straight can create the illusion of a shorter face
Do not extend the brows farther than the outside corners of the eye
Square face Face will appear oval if the arch is high on the ends of
the eyebrow Begin directly above the corners of the eyes and extend
them outward
Eyelash Enhancers Contain fiber to make lashes look longer &
fuller Built into mascara or separate product Prescription drug “Latisse®”
The Lips Lips are usually proportioned so that the
curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils
Lip Figures
Skin Tones Ruddy skin
Red, wind-burned or affected by rosacea Apply a yellow or green foundation to affected
areas blending carefully Apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow
base over entire complexion Set with a translucent or yellow-based powder Avoid red or pink blushes
Sallow skin Skin that has a yellowish hue Apply pink based foundation on the affected areas
and blend carefully into the jaw and neck Set with translucent powder Avoid yellow-based colors for eyes, cheeks, and
lips
Wrinkles Age lines and wrinkles due to dry skin can be
minimized with a foundation Apply the foundation sparingly and evenly in a
light, outward, circular motion Care should be taken to remove any
foundation that collects in lines and wrinkles
Artificial Eyelashes Clients with sparse lashes and clients who
want to enhance their eyes for special occasions are most likely going to request this service
The objective is to make the client’s own lashes look fuller, longer and more attractive without appearing unnatural (unless the occasion calls for dramatic or enhanced look)
Artificial Lashes Band lashes - Strip lashes
Eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line
Individual lashes Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the
eyelids one at a time Eyelash adhesive
Product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere or stick to the natural lash line
Applying Band Lashes Procedures pp. 787 - 788 Caution box pp. 783 Human hair, mink hair or synthetic fibers Synthetic fibers are made with a curl will not
react to the weather Variety of colors
Removing Band Lashes Commercial preparations Lash base may be softened by applying a face
cloth or cotton pad saturated with warm water and a gentle facial cleanser
Starting from the outer corner, remove the lashes carefully to avoid pulling out client’s own lashes
Use cotton tips to remove any makeup and adhesive remaining on the eyelid
Individual Lashes Synthetic Attached directly to client's own lashes Eye tabbing Follow mfg. directions
Safety precautions Pp. 783
Professional Makeup Application
Page 784 - 786 Caution box – Page 786 Service Tip 784