Fabric Quality Assurance

8/12/2019 Fabric Quality Assurance

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FABRIC QUALITY ASSURANCE

SIGNIFICANCE OF TEXTILE TESTING

To determine the suitability of a fabric for a particular end use which

is also the primary concern to both the buyers and sellers of textile

products.

The type of yarn used plays a signicance role in determining the

quality of the fabric.

The quality of yarn is improvised by improving the various properties

of yarn like yarn count, twist and GS etc depending on the end use.

IMPORTANCE OF TESTING

!esearch and development to enable new and desirable textile

products to be produced.

"roduct performance and evaluation to determine if the fabric is

suitable for the intended end use.

#uality control to ensure that the fabric will be made properly and

e$ciently. Thus claims and returns will be minimi%ed.

"roblem analysis to determine why a fabric or textile product is not

performing as desired

"roduct comparison to determine which material would be the bettervalue and to prevent wasteful buying.

"roper advertising to enable ads to be truthful and not misleading or

false

&dherence to government regulations so that the textile product can

be sold without violating any laws.

TEXTILE TESTING

DEFINITION:

't is used to determine whether or not a product complies with orperforms in a specied manner in relation to a standard or other

requirement.

Standard atmosp!r!

(ecause of the important changes that occur in textile properties as the

moisture contest changes, it is necessary to specify the atmospheric

conditions in which any testing is carried out. Therefore a standard

atmosphere has been agreed for testing purposes and is dened as a

relative humidity of )*+ and a temperature of -

-

. /or practical

T0 1 /abric #uality &ssurance 1 Study aterial "rof. 2. Sivalingam, 3'/T, (engaluru


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purposes certain tolerances in these values are allowed so that the testing

atmosphere is !4 )*+5 +, - 5 -.

TYPES OF TEST MET"ODS

P#s$%a& t!sts:These tests are mainly physical or mechanical in

nature and includes breaking strength, abrasion resistance, 6 pilling

propensity.

C!m$%a& T!sts: hemicals are used includes ber identication

using the solubility method, detection of antibacterial activity of

fabrics,6 determination of the presence of merceri%ation in cotton

fabrics.

T!sts to d!t!rm$n! %o&or'astn!ss prop!rt$!s: These tests are

used to determine the resistance of fabrics to color change under

various conditions, includes colorfastness to sunlight, washing,6

crocking.

Opt$%a& T!sts:& microscope or another magnifying device is used,

includes grading of wool bers, ber identication of textile defects.

FORMAT OF TEST MET"ODS

Test name 67or 3umber 0esignation

Scope

0enition of terms

&pparatus 6 aterials

Test Specimens

Test "rocedure

8valuation7alculation of !esults

!eport

3otes

P"YSICAL TESTS



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TYPES OF P"YSICAL TESTS

0urability test

/riction test

&ppearance test

/unctional test

DURABILITY TEST

!8&S93S T9 &!!: 9;T 0;!&('


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Tensile strength is the resistance of a material sub>ect to tension by an

external force.

& testing machine used for tests where a pulling force is exerted on

the specimen is called tensile testing machine.

8ach machine has ? basic elements of strength testing machine@

loading mechanism, clamping mechanism, recording

mechanism.

There are ? testing machines@

onstant rate of traverse A!TB

onstant rate of extension A!8B

onstant rate of load A!


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The breaking strength test is performed on most woven, non woven

and felted fabrics. 't is not recommended for knitted material since

they elongate easily, with the specimen becoming distorted.

This test can be performed with either wet or dry condition

TEST MET"ODS FOR FABRIC BREA)ING STRENGT"

Grab test

!aveled strip test

ut strip test

odied grab test

GRAB TEST

This method is used to determine the e=ective strength of the fabric

when in use, and not the strength of the yarns actually grippedbetween the clamps.

This test has the advantage of fast specimen preparation.

RA,ELED STRIP TEST

This can be useful for comparing the e=ective strength of yarns in

the material with their strength before being woven into the fabric.

DETERMINING FABRIC BREA)ING STRENGT" - ELONGATION

!eference@ &ST 0C)D

&pparatus 6 aterials

C. Tensile testing machine

.


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Sp!%$m!n Pr!parat$on

"repare ve fabric specimens for warp tests 6 ve for lling tests for each

method indicated below@

A+ Gra. T!st M!tod

C. ut specimens D inches F inches, with the longer edge in the

direction to be tested

B+ Ra/!&!d Str$p T!st M!tod

C. ut specimens D inches CH inches, with the longer length in

the direction to be tested.

. /or each specimen, unravel to exactly a CEinch width.

T!st pro%!d0r!

C. "roperly prepare the testing machine for the grab method.

. "roperly position the specimen in the clamps 6 the chart in the holder.

?. 9perate the testing machine, obtaining a loadEelongation curve on the

chart.

F. 0etermine the fabric breaking strength 6 the elongation from the

chart.

*. !eplace the chart 6 the tested specimen.

). !epeat the procedure for the other specimens for the grab test

method.

I. "roperly prepare the testing machine for the raveled stripe test method

using larger si%e >aws.

D. !epeat the test procedure used for the grab test method.

J. alculate the average fabric breaking strengths 6 percent elongations

for both methods.

DATA AND RESULTS:

/abric identicationKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

Tensile testing achine typeKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

achine capacity Albs.BKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

BREA)ING STRENGT":

T!st No+ GRAB L&!"1&.s+2

MET"ODFILLING1&.s+2

RA,ELED3ARP 1&.s+2

MET"ODFILLING1&.s+2

C

?F



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*TOTALA,ERAGE

"8!83T 8


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C. T93G;8 8T490

. "830;


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*. alculate the average fabric tearing strengths

T!ar$n* str!n*t

Capa%$t# o' t! ma%$n!4444444444444444444444

S+No+ 3arp5str!n*t *ms 3!'t5str!n*t *ms

C*Tota&

A/!ra*!

BURSTING STRENGT" TEST

(ursting strength is the force needed to rupture a fabric by distending

it with a force applied at right angle to the material. (ursting strength

is an alternative method of measuring strength in which the material is

stressed in all directions at the same time and is therefore more

suitable for such materials.

This is especially desirable for materials such as knits, laces and

nonwovens. There are also fabrics which are simultaneousl stressed

in all directions during service, such as !arachute fabrics, "lters, sacks

and nets, where it ma be im!ortant to stress them in a realistic

manner. # fabric is more likel to fail b bursting in service than it is to

break b a straight tensile fracture as this is the t!e of stress that is

!resent at the elbows and knees of clothing.

This test has application in testing woven fabrics that are to be

stressed equally in every direction when in use.



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T6o M!tods:

0iaphragm (ursting ethod

(all (ursting ethod

B0rst Str!n*t T!st!r &STE0C-, T&""'ETTF-?, P'SE


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T!st Pro%!d0r!: D$apra*m B0rst$n* M!tod

C. "repare the bursting tester.

. "osition the specimen over the rubber diaphragm 6 close the clamp so

the fabric is held securely.

?. Start the tester. Lhen the specimen bursts, stop the machine

immediately.

F. !ecord the gauge reading. This is the total bursting pressure.

*. 9pen the clamp 6 release the specimen pressure on the diaphragm.

!ecord the new gauge reading. This is the tare pressure.

). !emove the tested specimen 6 deOate the diaphragm.

I. !epeat the procedure for the other specimens.

D. alculate the specimen bursting strength

J. alculate the average fabric bursting strength.

Data and R!s0&ts: D$apra*m B0rst$n* M!tod

Fa.r$% $d!nt$=%at$on4444444444444444444444444444444444444

Ma%$n! %apa%$t# 1ps$244444444444444444444444444444444444

TEST NO+ Tota& pr!ss0r!1ps$2

Tar! pr!ss0r!1ps$2

Sp!%$m!nB0rst$n*str!n*t 1ps$2

C?F*

T9T&usted to give a pressure drop across the fabric of C-mm

head of water and the air Oow is then measured using a Oowmeter.

/ive specimens are used each with a test area of *-Dmm A*.FmmdiameterB and and the mean air Oow in ml per second is calculated from

the ve results. /rom this the air permeability can be calculated in ml per

C-- mmper second.

FUNCTIONAL TEST5 FABRIC DIMENSIONAL C"ANGE

0imensional change is the increase or decrease in the length or

width of a fabric called growth and shrinkage respectively.

'ncrease in dimension s called growth while decrease is called

shrinkage

hange is usually expressed in percentage.



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/abric shrink or grow for various reasons.


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'f 3ew length V 9riginal length then calculated percentage is

growth

'f 3ew length W 9riginal length then calculated percentage is

shrinkage

S"RIN)AGE MAR)ER AND SPECIMEN

DETERMINING FABRIC DIMENSIONAL C"ANGE AFTER LAUNDERING

Apparat0s and mat!r$a&s :

C. &utomatic home washing machine and detergent

. &utomatic home dryer

?. C- inch shrinkage markersF. !estoration apparatus

*. /abric specimens

). !uler

I. Scissors

Specimen preparation

;sing pinking shears to prevent unraveling, cut ? specimens each

measuring C) inches C) inches. 'ndicate the lengthwise direction with

indelible ink. ondition the specimen before testing.

ark the specimen with ink as indicated below. The marks are C-

inches apart and on grain.

M enter measurement

< M


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! M !ight measurement

TEST PROCEDURE "lace the specimen in the washing machine. &dd additional fabrics to

make a FEpound dry load.

Set the machine for the normal cycle. &dd J-g of detergent and start

the machine.

!emove the fabric from washer immediately after completion of nal

cycle. Separate the tangled pieces.

"lace the entire load in the tumble dryer.

!emove the specimen from the dryer and examine them. 'f there areexcessive wrinkles, remove them gently using hand iron.

/or each specimen, measure the distances between the indelible

shrinkage marks.

alculate the average percentage of shrinkage for both the length and

width to the nearest -.*+ .

Data and r!s0&ts:

Fa.r$% $d!nt$=%at$on4444444444444444444444444444444444444444



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3as$n* ma%$n! :

Ma! and mod!&4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

3as %#%&! 1s!tt$n*24444444444444444444444444444444444444444

3as t$m!44444444444444444 3as T!mp!rat0r!4444444444444444

Dr#!r :

Ma! and mod!&444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

Dr#!r s!tt$n*44444444444444444 Dr#!r t$m!44444444444444444444

Pr!ss$n* m!tod 1$' 0s!d24444444444444444444444444444444444

D$stan%! .!t6!!n sr$na*! mars .!'or! %&!an$n*KKKKKKKKKKKKKK

FABRIC FLAMMABILITY5TEST

/lammability refers burning behavior, specically to ease of ignition

and continued burning after ignition

/abrics can be placed in di=erent categories with regard to

Oammability.

Flammablefabrics will be completely consumed when exposed to re.

'n order to for such fabrics to be nonOammable it has to undergo some

chemical treatment and then called fame retardant abric.

%f the fabric is develo!ed from in&ammable "bres like kevlar ' (ome)

is called fame proo abrics

H5D!*r!! An*&! T!st

The specimen, mounted in a holder,is positioned in a metal cabinet at

a F* degree angle, and ignited with a butane gas Oame for one second.

The ignition Oame is removed and the time for the specimen to burn its

entire length AC*- mmB is recorded.


T!st no+ Mar!r

&o%at$on

D$stan%!

.!t6!!n

&!n*t

Sr$na*!

mars 6$dt

C enter


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fabric identicationKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

fabric type Aplain or raised surfaceBKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

direction of test Alength or widthBKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

T!st no+ Or$*$na& Cond$t$on A't!r Dr#

%&!an$n*

%od! t$m! T!st no+ %od! t$m!

C

?

F

*

Total Total

&verage &verage

COLOUR FASTNESS - S"ADE MATC"INGCOLOR FASTNESS

"roperty of a pigment or dye to retain its original hue, especially

without fading, running, or changing when wetted, washed, cleanedN

or stored under normal conditions when exposed to light, heat, or

other inOuences.

Fa%tors A?!%t$n* Co&or Fastn!ss

/iber Type

lass of 0ye ;sed

0yeing or "rinting "rocess used

Types of /inishing Treatments ;sed

&ction 9f


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"ossesses a knowledge of dyes and pigments.

4as the ability to evaluate and report color changes.

T#p!s O' Co&or'astn!ss

Ad/!rs! a?!%t!d .#: Lashing


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They equate di=erences in lightness with di=erences in color.

Gr!# s%a&!s 'or sta$n$n*

& di=erent set of grey scales is used for measuring staining

/astness rating is shown by two identical white chips Athat is nostainingB and rating C shows a white and dark chips. The other

numbers shows geometrical steps of contrast between white and a

series of greys.

&piece of untreated, unstained, undyed cloth is compared with the

treated sample that has been in contact with the test specimen during

the staining test and a numerical assessment of staining given.

Grade of *@ no change in color, no staining

Grade of C@ substantially di=erent. 4eavily stained

M!todo&o*# O' T!st$n*

3ormally a multiEbre strip of ) bre components used for staining test@

A%!tat!< Cotton< A%r#&$%< Poam$d!< Po!st!r and 3oo&+

;sually only one specimen of fabric used.

'f material dyed or printed uniformly throughout the fabric, then specimen

chosen should be representative of entire lot.

/or multi 1colored printed fabric, each color should be tested in order to

evaluate every color.

L$m$tat$ons o' Gr!# S%a&!

0isagreement when bright colors are used.

C"ROMATIC TRANSFERENCE SCALE

's used to evaluate fabrics resistance to crocking.

onsists of six sets of color chips.

8ach set is graduated from light to dark with di=erent rating.

L$*t$n* Us!d For E/a&0at$on

Lhen visually evaluating or comparing, standardi%ed light source

should be used.

9


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't enables specimen to be sprayed with water during the test, if

desired.

't also is able to alternate light and dark periods if continuous light

exposure is not desired.

These conditions are used in the LeatherEoEmeter to test fabric for

such end uses as outdoor furniture, tents or rainwear.

(oth machines have either a carbonEarc lamp or a xenonEarc lamp

as the light source.

The degree of fastness required depends on end use.

&s an example, a coat material should have more color fastness

than a colored dress shirt. Similarly clothes not intended to worn

outside should also have certain color fastness to enable drying in

sunlight.

3EAT"ER5O5METER

3ewer, versatile.

't enables the specimen to be sprayed with water if needed.

't also manipulates the light and dark period if continuous exposure

is not needed.

These make it most suitable for testing fabrics for end uses like

outdoor furniture, tenting or rainwear.Us$n* 3!at!r M!t!r

Two testing methods are used@

Time method

Standard fading method

TIME MET"OD

The specimen is exposed to light for a particular amount of time.

&fter the termination of time the specimen is taken out andevaluated.

Specimen is not exposed to the same amount of light each time the

test is performed.

T!st Pro%!d0r! standard Fad$n* M!tod

Sp!%$m!n Pr!parat$on

ut the specimen .* x D with the longer dimension in lengthwise.

T!st Pro%!d0r!



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ount the specimen in the cardboard holder and remove the

perforated strips so that half of the specimen area will be

uncovered.

'nsert the cardboard holder into the metal holder and place in to the

machine.

8xpose the specimen for - hours.

&t the end of the desired exposure time period, remove the

specimen and allow it to relax in the dark at room temperature for

atleast hours in order to regain moisture from the air.

;sing the grey scale for evaluating colour change, determine the

colour fastness rating for the test fabric.

COLOR FASTNESS TO CROC)ING

The rubbing o= of colors is called as crocking.

/abrics with large amount of surface dyes like dark color cotton

fabric tend to have poor colorfastness to crocking, pigment dyed or

printed fabrics also face the same problem.

Some time in order to increase the depth of the colors the surface

dyes are not washed o= which also results in crocking.

Cro% M!t!r

The crock meter is used to nd the color fastness to crocking.

This instrument has a nger covered by a white cotton fabric whichwould rub against the specimen.



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ut the specimen of R x R

ut the multiber fabric to x inch

PROCEDURE:

'mmerse the test sample and the specimen in the acid solution forC* min.

Lith draw the fabric and remove any excess liquor

"lace the specimen in the perspiration tester


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The specimen is held in such a way that only small portion is

exposed A inchB to rubbing force.

Two abradants are used here.

Em!r# M!tod

more severe test

;sed for garments that are exposed to severe abrasion

resistance for a long period of time.

&lso used for fabrics that have low dye penetration.

TESTING EQUIPMENT

S%r!!n 3$r! M!tod

!esults in mild abrasive action.

& ne wire screen is used and the specimen is placed over a

hard sponge material.

This is used for cross dyed and blended fabrics.

'n crocking test the rubbing cloth is evaluated and in this the

specimen is evaluated

D$?!r!n%! .!t6!!n Cro%$n* T!st and Frost$n* T!st

rocking evaluates the appearance of the specimen

/rosting only evaluates the rubbing cloth, not the specimen.

INFLATED DIAP"RAGM ABRASION TESTER

The specimen is placed between the abradant and the foam.

The table moves to and fro while the specimen is slowly rotated

causing it to rub against the abradant.

SCREEN 3IRE MET"OD

"lace the screen and the specimen in the tester. The specimen ismounted over the foam rubber cushion.

&pply a .* pound load on the head.

Start the tester and allow it to operate for C-- continuous cycle.

Stop the machine and remove the specimen.

/rom this continue as previous method and nd the color fastness.



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TESTING STANDARDS - MET"ODS

/or test results to correlate between laboratories it is essential that each

test conducted is to a standard test method. Test methods used in

di=erent countries have unique identication numbers but are usually

variations on the same basic protocol. the most commonly used test

standards are@

&ST and &&T for ;S&



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&merican society for testing and materials

&merican association of textile chemist and colorist

(S for ;nited Uingdom

&3 for anada

DIN0eutsches 'nstitute for 3ormung @ Germany

P'S for Papan APapan industrial standardB

&S for &ustralia

('S 1 (ureau of 'ndian standard

'S9

83E'S9

&&T 6 &ST are the preferred standards for the 3orth &merican

continent while 'S9 is used for the rest of the world. 'ndividual countries

have derived their own standard methodology but are usually based on

either the 'S9, &&T7&ST or (S test methods. !ecently, with the

8uropean ;nion being formed, a consolidation of all standard methods

used in 8urope is begin done. 'n most cases, common standards are being

evolved which are designated as 83 or 83 'S9. 't is expected that all

8uropean countries adopt these new designated test methods over a

period of time.

ASTM FABRIC PERFORMANCE

SPECIFICATION C"ART

Param!t!rs

M!nKs and

.o#s

S0$t

M!nKs - .o#s

Pa>amas

(reaking strength, lbs F- *:arn slippage, lbs * C*



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Tear strength, lbs .* C*

(ursting strength, lbs EE EE

0imensional change @ after *


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:arn slippage, lbs -ZZ *

Tear strength, lbs ? ?

(ursting strength, lbs EE EE

0imensional change@ after *

launderings

EE ?+

@ after ? dry

cleanings

EE +

olorfastness@ shade change,

original fabric

lass F lass F

Shade change after C laundering lass F lass F


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:arn slippage, lbs EE

Tear strength, lbs EE

(ursting strength, lbs *-

0imensional change@ after *

launderings

?+

@ after ? dry

cleanings

+

olorfastness@ shade change, original

fabric

lass F

Shade change after C laundering lass F


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Sr+ T!st D!s%r$pt$on M$n$m0m P!r'orman%!

Sp!%$=%at$ons

C Tensile Strength AGrabB C* kgf @ Larp 6 Left

Tear Strength School wear @ I--g @ Larp 6 Left

9thers @ *-- g@ Larp 6 Left

? Seam Slippage D kgf at S9 ) mm @ Larp 6 Left

F Seam Strength C- kgf Larp 6 Left

* &brasion !esistance C-,--- rubs

) "illing !esistance Afor

blends onlyB

Shirts 6 School wear @ ?EF @ CD,---

rubs

(louses @ ?EF @

CC,--- rubs

I 0imensional Stability 1

achine wash, /lat 0ry

5 ?.-+


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1In%&0d$n* S6$m6!ar< B!a%6!ar - L!otards2

Sr+ T!st D!s%r$pt$on M$n$m0m P!r'orman%!

Sp!%$=%at$ons

C Stretch 7 !ecovery !esidual 8xtension@ *.- + max. after?- minutes of recovery in length or

width as applicable.

0imensional Stability 1

achine wash, /lat 0ry

E *.- +


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It!m Sp!%$a& R!0$r!m!nts

Garments for &ustralia 'mproved


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The inspection of fabric, madeEup and garments has two primary

functionsN rst to classify the products according to the di=erent

qualities based on the demands of market and customer and second to

provide the information about the quality being produced.

3ormally the three operations such as inspection, mending or repairingof mendable defects and grading are performed in one operation at a

time.

Grad$n* o' D!'!%ts:

The textile products such as fabric, madeEups and garments during the

manufacture may have yarn defects, fabric defects and fabrication

defects due to the various reasons.

The defects depending on the magnitude, frequency of occurrence,

position, importance, e=ect on the purpose, consequences in the

further process, etc., shall be classied and graded under various

systems.

0uring the inspection, the occurrences of various defects need to be

examined and graded based on their magnitude and dimension as per

the required system.

There are di=erent types of systems are widely used for grading the

defect of fabrics

Po$nt Grad$n* S#st!m:

The F point grading system, also called the &merican &pparel

anufacturers &ssociation A&&&B point 1 grading system for determining

fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics

Po$nt A&&o%at$on 'or Po$nt S#st!m

L!n*t o' d!'!%t $n 'a.r$%< !$t!r &!n*t or6$dt

Po$nts a&&ott!d

;p to ? inch C

9ver ? inch, up to ) inch

9ver ) inch, up to J inch ?

9ver J inch F

4oles and openings A


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9ver C inch F

C. 3o linear yard of fabric shall be assigned more than F penalty points,

no matter how bad or frequent the defects are.

. & continuous defect running over J shall be assigned F points for eachyard.

7@ Po$nt Grad$n* S#st!m:

/abric is considered rst quality if the number of defect points is less

than the number of yards of fabric inspected.

'n the case of fabrics wider than *- inch., the fabric is considered rst

quality if the total defects points do not exceed the number of yards of

fabric inspected by C-+ .

Po$nt A&&o%at$on 'or 7@ Po$nt S#st!m


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Ca&%0&at$on:

& fabric roll C- yd long and FD inch width contains the following defects.

an we accept this fabric roll as per F point system[

0efect


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CARE LABELING D!/!&op$n* and E/a&0at$n* Car! La.!&s

are labels are required by the are


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e) 3!ar and T!ar:The abrasion, rubbing and Oexing to which the

textile materials ae sub>ected to, have the e=ect of breaking the

bres or displacing them in the yarn so that the textile materials are

weakened and eventually they are torn.

Sp!%$=% C&!an$n*< Dr#$n* and Stora*! R!0$r!m!nts o' T!t$&!sMad! o' ,ar$o0s F$.r!s:

aB ottons@ 't can be washed in hot water with strong detergent and

can be pressed with hot iron. &s cotton textiles wrinkle easily, they

should be treated with starch prior to ironing. They should be stored

in dry condition only and not in damp condition, to avoid mildew

attack.

b) 3oo&s:Lool should be washed in luke warm water with a mild

neutral sop or mild synthetic detergent. 't should be dried slowly

away from heat. Lool should be preferably ironed on wrong side

with a steam iron or damp cloth. 0ry cleaning is preferred to

washing. Lool fabrics are to be protected against moths and carpet

beetles.

c) S$&s: Silk should be washed only if labeled as QwashableQ.

9therwise it should be dry cleaned. Lashing is done by hand with

lukewarm water with mild soap or neutral detergent. 'roning is done

while damp on the wrong side of fabric. Silks stained by perspiration

should be cleaned at once, since perspiration weakens the fabric.

hlorine bleach is to be avoided. 8xposure to sun light is also to be

avoided. Silk fabrics are to be protected against moths and carpet

beetles.

d) Ra#ons:if the product is labeled washable, it should be washed by

using mild luke warm soap or detergent solution. The fabric is

squee%ed gently and rinsed in luke warm water. The article shoukd

neither be wrung nor twisted. 'roning should be done at moderate

temperature.

e) N#&on+ A%r#&$% and Po!st!r: These fabrics can be machinewashed, tumble dried at low temperature. /abric softener may be

added at nal rinse. 'roning can be done at moderately low

temperatue. /requent machine wash may lead to pilling of polyester

fabrics. Lhite nylin fabrics tend to become yellow or grey. hlorine

bleach should not be used in such cases.

Car! o' 3o/!n< )n$tt!d and F!&t!d Fa.r$%s:

are of fabric also depends upon its construction. Loven, knitted and

felted fabrics need di=erent treatments. /abrics, rmly woven in a

simple weave, is usually easily laundered unless bre or nish prevents



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it. Satin weave fabric should not be washed or dried with anything that

might catch on the long Ooat yarn. Unitted fabric usually resists

wrinkling but the loop on the long Ooat yarn. Unitted fabric usually

resists wrinkling but the loop formation can be distorted in cleaning

unless proper care is given.. Unitted fabrics may preferably be handwashed and should not be hung on the hanger to dry as the weight of

damp cloth may result in permanent elongation of loop structure. ost

of the lace garments do better if dry cleaned or hand washed, since the

intricate design structure may be damaged by agitation during

machine washing. Lhile washing corduroy or velveteen garments, they

should be separated from other items of clothing to avoid lint

accumulation. 3onEwoven fabrics such as felts are not strongly

constructed and may be permanently damaged if improperly cleaned.

True felts are made of wool bres, which shrink when washed and

should be dry cleaned only. Those held by adhesive substance may

disintegrate if cleaning treatement dissolves the adhesive and hence

the label instruction of cleaning must be followed strictly.

(efore making actual purchase of textile product, the consumer should

consider the kind of care the product will require. 'f an article does not

have a right kind of cleaning or care, it may lose its usefulness long

before the owner has received satisfactory monetary value.



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GuT 1 8ssentially a life 1 cycle analy%e protocol for carpets.

OE)O5TEX SC"EME

The various standards set out in the ecoElabeling system, the most

important human ecological standard is the 9ekoETex standard C-- of the

'nternational &ssociation of !esearch and Testing in the eld of Textile

8cology

'n CJD*, the &ustrian Textile !esearch 'nstitute A9T/B published guidelines

on the testing of textiles for toxic substances.

'n CJJ the 9T/ 4ohenstein !esearch 'nstitute set up 9ekoETex. 9ekoETex,

then drew up general conditions for awarding the 93/'0838 '3

T8T'


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CC* 1 Spun bres A:arns, "lyEyarnsB and initial products A


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lass '2 /;!3'S4'3G 1 &rticles, preEproducts and accessories for

decorative purpose such as tableware, furniture coverings, curtains textile

Oooring, mattresses.

T#p$%a& E%o5Param!t!r R!0$r!m!nts 'or T!t$&!s ( Garm!nts

Sr+ It!m P!rm$tt!d &$m$ts ( 0sa*!

C "resence of (anned &mines (elow ?- ppm

"resence of

"entachlorophenol A""B

(aby wear @ -.-* mg7kg

9thers @ -.* mg7kg

? "resence of "olychlorinated(iphenyls A"(QsB

3ot traceable

F "resence of /ormaldehyde 'tems not in direct contact @ ?-- mg7kg

'tems in direct contact with skin @ I*

mg7kg

(aby wear @ - mg7kg

* p4 2alue of &queous 8xtract (etween F.- and I.*

) !esidual "esticidesZ

AtotalB -.* mg7kg Ababy wearB



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C.- mg7kg AothersB

I "resence of 4eavy etals &s detailed separately. ZZ

D hloroorganic arriers 3ot detected

J /lame !etardants 3ot to be used

C- 9dour 3o unnatural odour

CC "hthalates in "2 3ot detected

C T(T, 0(T, (T 3ot detected

C? hlorine (leaching 3ot to be used

Z7ZZ'ndividual limits of 4eavy metals and "esticides are prescribed by

buyers.

N!6 r!0$r!m!nts $n E%o T!st$n*

&s the understanding on harmful e=ects of chemicals grows, new

requirements in ecological parameters are added. hanges and updates in

the specications are done based on this, mainly in the private 8co ersey being sold in Germany a year and a half ago. T(T was used as anantibacterial, to suppress body odour which results from bacterial growth

in perspiration. T(T is known to be a mutagen, causing genetic mutation

in sea snails. This led to many retailers and popular 8coElabels requiring

T(T, 0(T AdibutyltinB and (T AmonobutyltinB to be absent from their

merchandise.

Bann!d Am$n!s:&part form the - banned amines listed in the German

!egulation Aommodities &ctB, four more amines are required to be below

limits@

oEanisidine

pEamino a%oben%ene

.FQ xylidine

.)Q xylidine

A&&!r*!n$% D#!s: "roposed 88 regulation now also lists D disperse dyes

which are to be banned. These dyes are known allergens.

3ickel in accessories @ & new test method, 83 DCC 7 CFI was made

applicable to all metallic accessories used in garments, such as %ips,



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rivets, buttons, embellishments etc. in Pune --- by regulation in

Germany. This test method simulates years of actual use of the article.

Pta&at!s $n P,C:8mbellishments of "2 are expected not to contain

phthalates.

Total Quality Management

TQM refers to activities that involve everyone in organisation in an integrated effort to

improve performance at every level.

The goal of TQM is to maintain the organisations competitiveness in the world markets

TQM PERSPECTIVES ARE

A customer focus

An emphasis on quality

Team work

ndividual empowerment

Training and education

nvolvement of all employees



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!ommitment by management

!ontinuous process improvement

QUALITY IS .the QUALIFIER!

"oing it right first time and all the time. This boosts !ustomer satisfaction immenselyand increases efficiency of the #usiness operations.

!learing the bar $i.e. %pecification or %tandard stipulated) &'cellence that is better than a

minimum standard.

Quality an u"tome# e$%etation"

Quality is also defined as excellencein the product or service thatfulfills or exceeds the

expectations of the customer.

There are 9 dimensions of quality that may be found in products that produce customer(

satisfaction.

Though quality is an abstract perceptionit has a quantitative measure( Q* $+ , & )

where Q*quality +* performance$as measured by the Mfgr.) and & * e'pectations$ of

the customer).

The & 'imen"ion" o( Quality

+erformance- +rimary product !haracteristics

eatures- %econdary characteristics added features

!onformance- Meeting specification or industry standards

/eliability- !onsistency of performance over time average time for the unit to fail

"urability- 0seful life

%ervice- /esolution of problems and complaints

/esponse( of "ealer, Mfgr. to !ustomer- 1uman to human interface

Aesthetics 2 of product- e'terior finish

/eputation( of Mfgr.,"ealer- +ast performance and other intangibles such as being

ranked first

TQM #e)ui#e" "i$ *a"i Cone%t"+

3. Management commitment to TQM principles and methods 4 long term Quality plans

for the 5rganisation

6. ocus on customers 2 internal 4 e'ternal

7. Quality at all levels of the work force.

8. !ontinuous improvement of the production,business process.

9. Treating suppliers as partners

:. &stablish performance measures for the processes.



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E((et" o( %oo# Quality

;ow customer satisfaction

;ow productivity sales 4 profit

;ow morale of workforce

More re(work material 4labour costs

1igh inspection costs

"elay in shipping

1igh repair costs

1igher inventory costs


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Uai%en is a Papanese word. 't means continuous im!rovement !rocess

of creating more value and less nonEvalue adding waste.

Uai%en is not >ust a philosophy of the workplace, it means continually

im!roving in ever facet of life, including business, industry,

commerce, government, and diplomacy, among others.

't involves incremental improvement involving everone.

The improvements are usually accomplished at little or no e)!ense

without so!histicated techni*ues or e)!ensive e*ui!ments.

'f focuses on simplication by breaking down com!le) !rocesses into

their sub+!rocessand then improving them.

Uai%en can be regarded as culture that encourages suggestions by

operators who continually try to incrementally improve their >ob orprocess.

Uai%en helps to achieve process more ecient, e-ective, under control

and ada!table.

Uai%en training has focused on both philosophical and cultural concepts

and is based on the belief that the develo!ment of an individuals skill

bene"ts both the com!an and that individual, and that people

constantly aim for selfEimprovement

The 6ai7en im%#o3ement" (ou" on the u"e o(+

Value-added and non-value added work activities

Muda, seven classes of wastage- over production delay transportation processing

inventory wasted motion and defective parts

+rinciples of motion study and use of cell technology

+rinciples of materials handling and use of onepiece flow

"ocumentation ofstandard operating procedures

0se of 5

Visual Management

!o"a-yo"eto prevent or detect errors

#eam dynamics which includes problem solving communication skills and conflict

resolution

Flo ha#t o( 6ai7en P#oeu#e



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Si$ Sigma



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%igma $@) is


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"efining /oles- This is important to si' sigma. All team members should have a

well defined role with measurable ob>ectives.

Si$ Sigma Methoology

%i' %igma methodology improves any e'isting business process by constantly

reviewing and re-tuning the process.

To achieve this %i' %igma usesa methodology known as$M%&'$"efine

opportunities Measure performance AnalyGe opportunity mprove performance !ontrol

performance).


0ene

0etermine benchmarks, Set(ase line, 0etermine ustomer

!equirement, Get customercommitment,

ap "rocess /loweasur

e

0evelop defect measurement,0evelop data collection

process, ollect data, reateforms, ompile and display

data

&naly%e

2erify data, 0raw conclusionfrom data, test conclusions,

0etermine improvement

opportunities, 0etermine rootcauses, , ap causes to e=ect

'mprove

reate improvement ideas,reate models, 8xperiment,Set Goals, reate problem

statement and solutionstatement, 'mplementimprovement ethod

ontrol

onitor improvement process,

measure improvementsstatistically, &ssess

e=ectiveness, ake neededad>ustment.


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0PP0RTU-ITIES F0R ERR0R AT VARI0US SI1MA

Number of defects

per million

opportunities for

error

Associated

sigma level

&&$'() *+)

,,$.) *+.

&$,() /+)

($*.) /+.

,** .+)

*, .+.

*+/ &+)



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Loation o( 89"igma

:u"t in Time ;:IT>>

The international 5rganiGation for %tandardiGation $%5) was found in 3C8: in


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&'ternal quality- reduction in customer complaint and return

Time performance- improved on time delivery throughput time

!ost of poor quality- &'ternal nonconformities scarp rework are reduced.

A%%!pta.&! Q0a&$t# L!/!&

Ma>ority of sampling is based on desired achievement of predetermined acceptable

quality level $AQ;).

AQ; is a statistically measure of the consistency or quality predictor of manufactured

goods.

The AQ; is the ma'imum percent defective can be considered as process average for the

sampling purpose.

t is designated value of percent defective that the consumer will accept.

The AQ; may be defined in the contract or established internally.

A certain proportion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process however if

the percentages doesn=t e'ceed a certain limit it is often more economical to allow the

defective to go through rather than to screen entire lot. This limit is called Acceptable Quality

level.

n other words the ma'imum percent defective or ma'imum number of defects per 3II units

which can be considered satisfactorily as a process average is termed as Acceptable Quality

level.

%ampling procedures are adopted under practical and economic considerations to accept or

re>ect a lot on the basis of the sample drawn at random from the lot. 1ence it is necessary that

a scientifically designed sampling plan is used to provide adequate confidence and protection

to the manufacturer and the customer very economically.

Fo#mation o( lot"

ormation of lots will have to be planed with respect to the following-

a) Type of lot$%tationary lot or moving lot)

b) %iGe of the lot.

c) 1omogeneity of the lot.

d) Accessibility of item in the lot.

a) %tationary and moving lot

n a stationary lot items are presented simultaneously all the sample items may be obtained at

one time in a moving lot as the lot moves past the point of inspection one or a few items are

selected at a time. n many situations stationary lots offer advantages over moving lots.

*< Si7e o( lot



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The general rule in the formation of lots is to make the lot siGe as large as possible provided

that a reasonable degree of homogeneity is maintained. #ut siGe of lot will have to be limited

on account of the following factors-

i) The formation of larger lots may result in the inclusion of items differing more

widely in quality.

ii) The production or supply of material may be such that the accumulation of large

lots will be over a long period.

iii) "ue to shortage of space and handling problems.

iv) The economic consequences of re>ection of larger lots because of the cost of

scrapping the cost of detailed inspection or the cost of reworking them. n

forming a lot therefore compromise is to be made in respect of its siGe.

< @omogeneity o( lot"

As the efficiency of sampling depends on the degree of homogeneity of the lot efforts should

be made not to have a mi'ed lot as far as possible and to confine the lot to materials or

products originating from essentially similar condition.

< Ae""i*ility o( item in the lot

t is also important from the point of view of convenience of inspection that the lot is easily

identifiable and should have easy access to all parts of the lot to select representative sample.

'ete#mination o( "am%le "i7e

t is not possible to have a single rule for determination of the siGe of the sample. The number

of items to be in the sample is dependent on the e'tent of error due to sampling that can betolerated which in turn depends to a large e'tent on the degree of homogeneity of the lot. The

siGe of the lot also comes into picture more from practical consideration than any statistical

reasoning.

or economical inspection of goods a sampling plan was designed by American military

department known as American Military standardB. This standard has undergone many

revisions from M;(%T"(3I9A to M;(%T"(3I9&. Today this sampling is very much in use.

The acceptability of a lot submitted for inspection shall be determined with the sampling plan

associated with the specified value of AQ;.

'#aing o( Sam%le

Ascertain the lot siGe

/efer the sample siGe code letters table

orm the column indicating lot,batch siGe identify the class to which the population

belongs.

dentify the letter $alphabet) from-


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/efer to table titled %ingle sample plan Lormal nspection using the identified letter

$alphabet) of ection.

Fabric Quality Assurance

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