Fabric constructionTypes of Fabrics

Fabric Construction

The Three Basic Types of Fabric:•WOVEN•KNIT•NON-WOVEN

Woven Fabrics• Made on a loom• Harnesses

• Hold the Warp or lengthwise yarns during weaving

• Go up and down and determine the weaving pattern

•Shuttle• Holds the weft or crosswise

yarn during weaving. • Shuttles are thrown back and

forth in between rows of lengthwise yarns

Hand Weaving

Power Loom

Woven FabricsMade on a loom• Lengthwise yarns are vertical (WARP)• Lengthwise yarns are stronger • Go up and down on your body

• Crosswise yarns are horizontal (WEFT)• Go across your body

Woven Fabrics

• Plain• Twill• Satin

Three Basic Types of Woven Fabrics

Are:

It is called a “PLAIN WEAVE” because it is the most simple type of weave.

• The first yarn will go over one and then under one.

• The second yarn will do exactly the opposite.

• The third one, will repeat the first and the forth one will repeat the second.

Plain Weave

Plain Weave

Twill WeaveThe “TWILL WEAVE” is designed for STRENGTH & DURABILITY.

• The first yarn will go over Two and then under two of the lengthwise yarns.

• The second yarn will rotate one over and then repeat the same pattern.

• The third one rotate one over again, and then repeat the same pattern

When it is finished, you will see the illusion of a diagonal appearance.

Twill Weave

Satin WeaveThe “SATIN WEAVE” is designed to create a shine on the surface of the fabric.To get a shine there must be two things happening.

1. The type of fiber must be made of a fiber that can shine.

2. The way it is woven will enhance the shine capability

This style of weave is called a “Random Weave” because there is no order to the weave of the crosswise yarns.

Satin Weave

Knits

Knits are made of interlocking loops

Characteristics of knit fabrics• Stretches• Resilient (which means

returns to original shape• Wrinkle Resistant

KnitsThe

“Knit Side” shows

the face of the fabric

“Purl Side” shows

the back

of it.

Knits: -Single Knit /Jersey-

Has a front (KNIT SIDE) and back (PURL SIDE).

The edge will curl when you stretch it.

It is the only one that the front and back look different.

Knits: -Double-

Two layers of jersey made back to back.

Looks the same on both sides.

The edge does not curl.

Knits –Ribbed- - Looks the same on both sides.

- You will see ridges in between the knit rows.

- It has an ultra-stretch

Non WovenFabric is made by gluing fibers

together.

Characteristics: • It does not have “GRAIN”• It has No resilience. • If you stretch it does not return to its

original shape• Requires special sewing techniques• Typically Used for Crafts & Décor

items

NonWovenEXAMPLES

Felt – Felt is a fabric that is used mostly for crafts. - It has very little stability or resilience. - It usually comes in brilliant colors.

Felt&

Felt Crafts

NonWovenInterfacing

-Interfacing is used to stabilize fabrics and change the body. In some places on a garment may need more stiffness, strength or heavier drape.

On this Jacket Interfacing is used in the collar, the lapel and the cuffs to help them be more functional.

NonWovenDryer Sheet

- A dryer sheet is made from the same material as the interfacing. The difference is that the dryer sheet has fabric softener applied to it. The fabric Softener will melt in the dryer heat and go into the laundry.

NonWovenBatting

-Batting is used on the inside of a quilt or wall hanging. This is the part of the blankets that makes the blanket heavier and warmer than just two pieces of fabric together.

NonWovenDiapers

-Diapers are a great use of non wovens. And they help keep children dry. The non woven fibers are used on disposable diapers to hold the diaper together from the outside

Fabric Characteristics

Fabric CharacteristicsSelvage Edge:

The uncut edges that do not frayFollows the lengthwise direction of the fabric

Cut/Raw Edge:This is the edge that is cut and will fray

Lengthwise Grain:Also called the “Warp Yarns/Threads”These are the longest yarns in the fabric

Crosswise Grain:Also called the “Weft Yarns/Threads”These yarns go from Selvage to Selvage

Fabric Characteristics

Selvage Edge

Fabric CharacteristicsStraight of Grain:

Refers to the lengthwise direction of the fabric…

True-Bias:Refers to the diagonal Direction on the fabric…

Fabric Characteristics

Important Information you

need to know about Fabric

How are “woven” fabrics made?

Woven Fabrics are made on a

“Loom”

How are “knit” fabrics made?

A yarn that is looped

together to create a

solid piece of fabric with a stretch

How are “non-woven” fabrics made?

Random fibers that are glued together.

There is not a straight of grain on “non-woven”

fabrics.

“Non-woven” fabrics are not durable because

of the way they are made.

What is the “selvage edge” ?

“Selvage Edge” is the un-cut edge that doesn’t fray…

… and follows the “lengthwise grain”

of the fabric.

What does it mean to work with the “true-bias” ?

Cutting the fabric at a 45* degree, diagonal angle

What are some unique characteristics when working with

fabric on the “bias” ?

Fabric that does not normally stretch, will stretch on the “bias”

What are some unique characteristics when working with

fabric on the “bias” ?Fabric cut on the “bias” can change the direction of a

print

Fabric cut on the “bias” changes the

way the fabric drapes the body

What does it mean for fabric to be “On Grain” ?

Why is important to cut out your fabric “on grain” ?

Fabric cut “off grain” will make the seams hang crooked

How is “lengthwise grain” related to “selvage edge” ?

The “lengthwise

grain” follows the

same direction as the

“selvage edge”

Fibers & FABRICS QUIZGo to the following website. Take the fibers &

fabrics quiz.Click on the link below. When it directs you to the

website, hit the refresh button.Or you can open Internet Explorer and type this web

address into your browser.You need to make sure to enter your first and last

name and click the button that says “login and start”

www.ucutips.org/~hhutchings

Your results will be sent to Mrs. Hutchings email address.

When you are finished with the quiz, ask Mrs. Hutchings for your fabric swatches so you can attach them to your

packet.Last, You need to get the Quiz Fabrics From Mrs. Hutchings!