Fabric and Garment Performance Testing - DXL 5... · Location of Defects: The location of a defect...

Revised 03/08/2018

Chapter 5

GENERAL QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY OVERVIEW FOR APPAREL

AND FOOTWEAR

Internal Inspection Policy

All merchandise received in the DXL Group Distribution Center in Canton, MA is inspected for

conformance to quality and measurement specifications. If the selected samples pass these

criteria, the entire shipment is accepted. If the samples fail the inspection, the entire shipment

stays on QA Hold.

The procedure used is the Single Sampling Plan taken from the American National Standard

Institute ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, published by the American Society of Quality Control.

The disposition of shipments placed on QA Hold is made based on discussions with the Global

Sourcing, Quality Assurance, Technical and Merchandising teams in Canton, MA. If the

deviation from the standards is determined to be significant, the following process may be

adopted:

100% inspection and / or correct at either DXL Group’s DC or an outside audit and

repair service

100% inspection and / or correct at the Vendor

Return to Vendor all defective units (RTV)

Both DXL Group and vendor should agree upon the final disposition of a shipment. If 100%

inspection or any correction occurs, charges will be assessed to the vendor for operating, labor

and possibly loss of sales incurred in resolving the problems and delaying the distribution of

goods into our retail channels. For more information on our charge-backs and RTV policies,

please refer to the charge-backs section of this manual.

All correspondence should be sent to:

Testing/Final Random Inspection: [email protected]

Quality Control/Compliance: [email protected]

1. Merchandise Quality Standards

Classification of Defects:

Three defect classifications (critical, major and minor) have been selected that will be used to

classify types of defects (refer to appendix 4). Only critical and major defects will be considered

when applying the sampling plan. The defect descriptions follow:

mailto:[email protected]

mailto:VendorCompliance%[email protected]

Revised 03/08/2018

Critical: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the consumer or

end user.

Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a

shipment.

Major: Any defect that adversely affects the appearance or performance of a product, including

fit or customer satisfaction.

Any defect that is likely to materially reduce the usefulness of the product, or is likely to result in

failure, is also a major defect. The consumer would normally be unwilling to accept such a

defect, resulting in a return or complaint. Any major defects must be corrected and re-inspected

before shipment leaves factory floor.

Minor: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major,

and would not provide a discerning customer with justification for return or complaint.

The defect would not materially reduce the usefulness of the product, nor is it likely to result in

failure.

Please refer to Appendix 4 for Defect Terms and Classifications

Location of Defects:

The location of a defect is important in determining its classification (i.e., major or minor). Two

defect zones (A and B) have been selected for all merchandise categories.

Zone A: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is of major

importance. i.e., center front, center back, top of sleeves

Zone B: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is important

but only of minor importance. i.e., lower hem, underarm, under-sleeves, sides of the

body.

Please see sample sketches of defect locations at the end of this chapter

2. Sampling Plan Parameters:

Lot Size

The lot size is the amount received in one purchase order from the vendor. The lot can include all

colors and sizes from one style received from the vendor in the purchase order. Sampling plan is

based on each purchase order.

Use of Sub-Lots

When necessary, additional information may be needed concerning part of the total lot. A sub-lot

consisting of a separate color of a SKU within the lot, or even a separate size, may be selected for

inspection. In these cases, a sub-lot (i.e., one color or one size) may be accepted even though the

rest of the main lot is rejected. It is also possible to fail a sub-lot, though the rest of the main lot

is accepted.

Revised 03/08/2018

Fabric Inspection

Bulk fabric quality inspection should be performed at mill level. Fabric inspection reports must be

submitted to DXL Group and written approvals must be received from DXL Group prior to cutting

bulk fabrics.

4 Points System

Penalty points are assigned for each defect according to the length thereof as set forth in the

following table:

Size of Defects (length in inches) Number of Penalty Points

3” or less 1

Over 3” but less than 6” 2

Over 6” but less than 9” 3

Over 9” 4

Note:

No one yard should have more than 4 penalty points.

Any holes (2 or more broken ends) will be awarded 4 points.

Any running defect more than 4 continuous yards will cause the roll to be rejected.

Final Random Inspections (FRI)

Performed to assure all units shipped are first quality merchandise, packaged, packed and shipped

in full compliance with DXL Group requirements. FRI should be conducted when 80% of goods

are produced and packed. All FRIs must be performed for each individual style and PO. Final

random inspections for the same style across multiple PO’s may be performed only with prior DXL

Group approval. FRIs cannot consist of multiple styles without prior authorization.

In-Line (During production) audits to be performed for each operation by factory/agent QA.

DXL Group may request in line inspection reports periodically.

For agents: FRI and Compliance inspection reports must be sent to DXL Group’s QA team at

least 72 hours before shipment departs.

For vendors/factories: All vendors and factories must use Bureau Veritas for final random

inspection (unless otherwise agreed upon between DXL Group and the factory/vendor) on all DXL

Group private label merchandise. Bureau Veritas inspection services require a 2 week advance

booking from your ex-factory date. FRI and Compliance Inspection reports must be approved by

DXL Group 72 hours before shipments exit factory.

FRI Requirements: All final random inspections are conducted using a 2.5 AQL –

Level II Normal Inspection.

Revised 03/08/2018

Final Random Inspection Definitions

Normal Inspection Quantities will be used for inspection of original shipments from any vendor. Normal inspection

will also be used when a vendor changes place of production, materially alters the product, or an

extended period of time (4 months or longer) elapses between receipts. Refer to the AQL Plans

Appendix 1.

Tightened Special Inspection Quantities (larger number of items inspected) will be used after two consecutive shipments of an

item from a vendor have failed normal inspection. When tightened inspection is in effect, normal

inspection will be instituted after two consecutive shipments of an item from a vendor have been

accepted. Refer to Appendix 2.

Reworked Lots All reworked lots or sub-lots must be inspected 100% by either the vendor, DXL Group or by third

party of our choice. All fees and inspection charges will be charged back to vendor. All defective

units must be repaired, cleaned or corrected or cannot be included in a reworked lot. All reworked

lots will be inspected by DXL Group in the same manner as the original lots.

Compliance (Package & Label) Inspection To ensure inventory accuracy, we require a separate inspection procedure on packaging and

labeling (stickers, tickets, jokers, PIDs, UCC128, size labels) based on our normal single sampling

plan, audit level III. Refer to Appendix 2.

There is zero tolerance on inaccurate packing and labeling, the shipment will be

rejected if any single carton fails inspection (unless approved by DXL Group).

Revised 03/08/2018

Appendix 1 AQL Normal Inspection Plan

Appendix 2 AQL Tightened Inspection Plan

Appendix 3 AQL Reduced Inspection Plan (with approval by DXL Group)

Lot or Batch Size

Sample Size at General

Inspection Level II

AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection)

Major 2.5 Minor 4.0

Ac Re Ac Re

91 to 150 20 1 2 2 3

151 to 280 32 2 3 3 4

281 to 500 50 3 4 5 6

501 to 1,200 80 5 6 7 8

1,201 to 3,200 125 7 8 10 11

3,201 to 10,000 200 10 11 14 15

10,001 to 35,000 315 14 15 21 22

Lot or Batch Size


Inspection Level III


Major 1.5 Minor 2.5

Ac Re Ac Re

91 to 150 32 1 2 2 3

151 to 280 50 2 3 3 4

281 to 500 80 3 4 5 6

501 to 1,200 125 5 6 7 8

1,201 to 3,200 200 7 8 10 11

3,201 to 10,000 315 10 11 14 15

10,001 to 35,000 500 14 15 21 22

Lot or Batch Size


Inspection Level I


Major 2.5 Minor 4.0

Ac Re Ac Re

91 to 150 8 1 2 1 2

151 to 280 13 1 2 1 2

281 to 500 20 1 2 2 3

501 to 1,200 32 2 3 3 4

1,201 to 3,200 50 3 4 5 6

3,201 to 10,000 80 5 6 7 8

10,001 to 35,000 125 7 8 10 11

Revised 03/08/2018

FRI Measurement Audit

Sample size: Special inspection level 3 (S-3)

e.g. If the lot size is 12,000 pieces, no. of sample to be measured is 20 pieces.

Acceptable level: Out of tolerance points not more than 10% of measured points.

e.g. If we measured 20 pieces, each piece has 10 measurement points(all measurement

points given on the size specification). Totally, we will measure 200 points. If we found

more than 20 points are out of tolerance, the result will be failed.

Additional condition: If more than 5 measured pieces (same size or in different sizes) are

found out of tolerance on the same primary point (key point of the garment), the result

will be failed too.

e.g. If the chest width of 5 measured pieces found out of tolerance, the result is failed

regardless of the percentage of the out of tolerance points found.

Measurement Audit – Primary Points of Measure Primary points of measure are to be evaluated during measurement audit, following these

guidelines.

Woven Tops: Neck Opening (collar band length): Description: Lay the collar open and flat. Measure

from center of button to far end of buttonhole, following contour of the band.

Chest 1” below armhole

Armhole Circumference

Sleeve Length CBN

Front Length HPS

Across Shoulder

Knit Tops/Sweaters: Chest 1” below armhole


Sleeve Length CBN

Body Length HPS

Across Shoulder

Bottom Sweep (relaxed)

Revised 03/08/2018

Bottoms: Waist

Front Rise

Back Rise

Thigh (1” below crotch)

Leg Opening Circumference

Inseam

Seat Width (9” below waistband)

Socks: Leg Length (relaxed): Measure from the top of the leg to the bottom of the heel

Leg Width (relaxed): Measure across the center of the leg from one side to the opposite

side

Foot Length (relaxed): Measure from the back of the heel to the toe

Foot Width (relaxed): Measure across the center of the foot from one side to the opposite

side

Belts: Length

Width

Sport Jacket and Suit Jackets:

Chest 1” below armhole

Half Waist: Measure from the front edge of the jacket going over the top buttonhole to

the center back seam. If jacket is a 3-button, measure over the center buttonhole.

Jacket seat 5” from bottom: Measure 5’ up from bottom and straight across the garment

side to side

Across Shoulder

Back Length CBN

Upper Arm: Measure 1” below arm opening straight across the sleeve

Sleeve Opening (Relaxed)

Sleeve Length Underarm

Vest:

Chest 1’ below armhole

Bottom Sweep (Relaxed)

Across Shoulder

Across Front 8” Down From HPS

Across Back 8” Down From HPS

Front Length HPS

Back Length CBN


Revised 03/08/2018

Outerwear (Jacket):



Body Length HPS

Sleeve Length CBN

Across Shoulder


Knits and Sweaters:



Across Shoulder

Sleeve Length CBN

Body Length HPS

Revised 03/08/2018

QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY

Testing Policy

DXL Group believes that quality must be built into the product. The purpose of testing is to

assess, achieve and meet our customers’ satisfaction and expectations. Test results confirm

Government Regulatory Compliance and DXL Group’s quality expectations are met. To achieve

this goal we have developed fabric, component and garment test specifications and guidelines that

our vendors/factories have the responsibility to achieve, maintain and to ensure the consistency of

product performance. This focus is part of our ongoing process to continuously improve product

quality.

Our nominated exclusive testing laboratory service provider is Bureau Veritas. For lab contact

information, guidelines and protocols follow the below link

http://www.destinationxl.com/media/content/vendors/

VENDOR/ AGENT / FACTORY RESPONSIBILITY

Follow all testing procedures and testing requirements listed below and in the Bureau

Veritas Protocol Manual.

As a vendor to DXL Group, you are fully responsible for all fabric, garment,

trim/component and special claims testing of production merchandise. You must

guarantee that fabric, garment, trim/component and special claims pass all tests before

production and shipment. The best timing for fabric testing is upon the initial run of

production. The best timing for component, garment and special claims testing is upon

receipt of our order with the correct samples. It is the vendor’s responsibility to ensure

that all necessary tests are done to meet DXL Group requirements. Testing is required for

all products at least once every 6 months, and/or when changes have been made in

production or the supplier has changed. This is also applicable to Core and E3

Replenishment Programs.

Analytical Testing:

Determines if harmful chemicals are present in DXL Group products; and ensures

compliance with U.S. and International regulations.

Nickel Leaching: Any metal trim/component in direct contact to the skin which results

in a positive nickel spot test will require a full Nickel Leaching test at the expense of the

vendor.

AZO Dye Colorants: DXL Group requires that all products are AZO Free or within

the AZO Dye Colorant maximum requirement of <30mg/kg. Therefore, all vendors are

responsible to provide DXL Group with evidence of compliance in the form of a

certificate from an accredited testing laboratory to ensure conformity to the regulation.

This test will be at the expense of the vendor. The AZO Free/AZO Dye Colorant

certificate validity must be maintained by the vendor.

http://www.destinationxl.com/media/content/vendors/

Revised 03/08/2018

Formaldehyde Content: DXL Group requires that all products in direct contact with

the skin are within the formaldehyde content maximum requirement of 75 mg/kg.

Lead Testing: Any applicable surface coating or substrate lead test result must not

exceed the maximum allowable limits.

California Proposition 65: All products will be reviewed against the requirements of

California Proposition 65 to determine if additional testing or labeling is required.

Fabric Testing: All fabrics used in DXL Group products must be tested per the appropriate protocol and meet

DXL Group standard test requirements. Bulk production cannot proceed without DXL Group

review and approval.

Pre-production / Development Stage: Newly developed fabrics must go through our

specification testing during development stage to verify the proper finishes, performance

and requirements.

Production Fabric Stage: All bulk fabric testing should occur as soon as the fabric is

correct for construction, color, finish, etc. Testing should be planned accordingly so it

will not delay bulk garment cutting and sewing. Fabric tests will help determine/verify

the care instructions and fiber content labeling for the garment. Bulk fabric must not be

cut until written approval is issued by DXL Group.

Solid/Pattern/Print Fabric: Full fabric test should be done on the first available production

colorway. Other colorways are tested as “Additional Color” by abbreviated protocols.

Fabric used in Color-Blocked Garments: Fabrics must be in the form of a color blocked

mock-up and tested for colorfastness per the care instructions to ensure self-staining does

not occur.

Fabrics containing Wicking and Anti-fade properties: the fabric mill must submit every

color in one submission to Bureau Veritas for testing. Example: If your order for style

KT-1000 includes 20 colors, all 20 colors should be sent together on one trf for testing.

The vendor must contact [email protected]

prior to testing if all colors cannot be submitted together.

Fabric produced for Garment Wash programs:

o Any fabric produced which will be going through a garment wash program must be

tested after the garment wash process.

o Therefore, the fabric mill must send the garment factory two (2) square yards of all

colors in order for the factory to perform the garment wash process.

o Once the garment wash process is complete, the garment factory will be responsible

to send the fabric in all colors to Bureau Veritas for fabric testing. The fabric mill

should advise the factory as to what testing package is required, such as fabric test,

additional color test and/or any special claims.

mailto:[email protected]

Revised 03/08/2018

o DXL Group will review the completed test reports and advise their comments to the

mill.

o If test failures occur that require improvements and retesting, the mill will make the

necessary improvements and send the improved fabric to the factory with the

retesting instructions.

o The factory will process the fabric once again and send it to Bureau Veritas for

retesting.

o After DXL Group approval, the mill can ship the bulk/improved fabric to the factory.

Trim/Component Testing: ALL trims/components used on DXL Group products must be tested separately per their

respective protocol. Bulk production cannot proceed without DXL Group review and approval.

DXL Group requires trim/component testing prior to the vendor’s commitment to

purchase.

Zippers: DXL Group preferred supplier is YKK. However, local manufacturing brands

will be accepted based on a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Vendors should

obtain written approval from DXL Group prior to purchasing non YKK zippers. YKK

brand also requires a passing test report from Bureau Veritas.

Shank Buttons: DXL Group preferred supplier is Scovil. However, local manufacturing

brands will be accepted based on a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Vendors

should obtain written approval from DXL Group prior to purchasing non Scovil shank

buttons. Scovil brand also requires a passing test report from Bureau Veritas.

Buttons and Metal Pins/Clips (used for the Dress Shirt Program): non-breakable buttons

and non-rust pins/clips must be used on all dress shirts. The buttons and metal pins/clips

must pass the applicable tests. See trim/component testing protocols for test

requirements.

Knit/Mesh Lining Insert Trim Fabric (Jacket Relaxer) used for Sport Coats and Suit

Jackets: conduct colorfastness to crocking and perspiration only. See requirements in the

trim/component protocol.

New programs must carry out trim/component testing during development. Repeat

programs must test all trims/components every 6 months and/or when changes have been

made in production or the supplier has changed.

Garment Testing: Is carried out to ensure the fabric, components/trims and garment

construction are compatible and meet DXL Group quality standard requirements. The garment

test assesses and verifies the garment performance and the labeled care instructions. Bulk

production cannot proceed without DXL Group review and approval.

Revised 03/08/2018

Full garment testing is required on one color of each style. However, if a garment is

color-blocked, a full garment test is required on one color combination and colorfastness

per the care label is required for each additional color combination.

All production styles have to be garment tested as soon as bulk fabric, trims/components

and labels become available to factory. At times, we may require garment testing during

the sampling stage to verify its performance and functionality.

Sweater Testing: Full testing for sweaters should be done in garment form by style.

Additional colorways can be tested for colorfastness in knit-down panels.

Vendor/agent is responsible to notify labs regarding appropriate protocol, and all special

claims to ensure that proper testing is performed according to DXL Group requirements.

If the garment contains a belt, Protocol 805 must be conducted.

Repeat styles require testing every 6 months if produced by the same factory. Any change

of fabric mill, factory, supplier, trim, component, label, etc. before the 6 month period

will require immediate full testing.

DXL Group reserves the right to reject shipment if the testing program was not

followed or test results were not accepted.

Additional Responsibilities:

Ensure there is a QA & QC process in place, in line with DXL Group’s requirements. At the

beginning of each season’s development, vendor/agent/factory must review all style development

specifics on fabrics, trims/components and fit in order to set a plan for all testing and assurance

protocols.

Arrange testing and inspection based on time and action calendar to avoid any production delay.

Any special claims on performance or special fabrics and garments must be clearly defined at the

time of testing.

Fabric Inspection must be performed at the mill. Fabric inspection test reports are required and

must be approved by DXL Group prior to bulk garment production.

All vendors must use Bureau Veritas as our exclusive nominated inspection service, unless

otherwise agreed upon. All inspection reports must be approved by DXL Group before shipment.

Please contact our QA department for Bureau Veritas inspection instructions.

Inbound QC inspections are conducted by DXL Group for all shipments. If a shipment fails and is

deemed unacceptable based on quality, measurement, product labeling or packaging integrity; the

vendor is responsible for all charges related to the associated re-work. This includes but is not

limited to internal DC charges, transportation to and from 3rd

party, 3rd

party re-work charges, and

cost of damaged goods including freight and duty (LDP cost) and loss of sales. DXL Group is

not responsible for any import duty refund. Return to Vendor goods will be charged back at full

Landed Duty Paid term. All charges related to rework will be deducted from the actual PO or the

next open invoice.

Revised 03/08/2018

Appendix 4 Defect Terms and Classification

Packing and Presentation Critical Major Minor

Missing size and care label X

Missing hang tag X

Missing price tickets, price stickers and PIDs X

Price tickets, price stickers and PIDs placed on wrong item X

Wrong UCC128 placement X

Wrong size ratio in pre pack cases X

Wrong SKUs mixed in single SKU cases X

Improper folding X

Soiled/Dirty/Unsealed poly bag X

QTY in case does not match QTY on UCC128 label X

PID applied in the wrong place on polybag X

General Critical Major Minor

Use of monofilament sewing thread that will hurt customer’s skin X

No warning clause on poly bag if required X

Any sharp point/sharp edge on accessories X

Infestation of live insect X

Lack of multi-languages for Fiber Content and Country of Origin (7

languages: English, French, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, German, and

Russian). Lack of bi-lingual Care Instructions (French and

English). Lack of 5 care symbols (Ginetex) on the care label.

X

Needle detected X

Mildew/mold X

Strong odor X

Wet X

Holes

X

Stains

X

Mending place X

Missing bar tack (at significant area if specified) X

Different lots of shade from garment to garment. NEED BUYER'S APPROVAL

X

Cleaning mark X

Shank pulls off during inspection pull test X

Revised 03/08/2018

Fabric Critical Major Minor

Fabric flaw / run more than 1/2" at obvious part of a garment X

Fabric flaw / run more than 1" at non-obvious part of a garment X

Hole (any size other than pinhole) X

Wrong or slanted grain line X

Pills on surface (depends on density) X X

Color shade difference within same garment X

Printing fault (depends on obviousness) X X

Barrenness on knitted fabric (depends on obviousness) X X

Permanent crease mark X

Different dye lots ( Needs buyer approval ) X

Accessories Critical Major Minor

Any missing accessory X

Dimension, color, art work or content not as specified X

Button inside out X

Button marking not removed X

Damaged button X

Rusted stud, snap, rivet, buckle, zipper, hook & bar, pins, clips X

Paint peel off on stud, snap and buckle X

Button and buttonhole not aligned causing bulge (depends on

obviousness)

X X

Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass through X

Buttonhole too big X

Uncut / partially cut buttonhole X

Ragged edges at buttonhole X

Broken buttonhole stitches X

Button thread easily pulled out X

Wordings upside down on button / snap X X

Gap at zip top / end (depends on size) X X

Incomplete adhesive on interlining X

Illegible information on accessory X

Fusing bubbles/Wrinkled fuse on interlining X

Sparse embroidery X

Revised 03/08/2018

Workmanship and Appearance

***Stitching and Seams Critical Major Minor

Irregular stitch density X X

Loose / tight stitches X X

Crooked stitches (depends on size) X X

Skipped stitches X

Broken stitches X

Run-off stitches 1/4" (depends on size) X X

Blind stitching visible (depends on obviousness) X X

Needle cutting X

Exposed seam grin X

Insufficient seam allowance X X

Pleated seam X X

Seam slippage (If found on more than one garment - Critical) X X

Puckering seam (depends on obviousness) X X

Open seam (any size) X

Seam not fully opened before stitching X X

Exposed under ply seam (depends on obviousness) X X

Abrasion feed mark (depends on obviousness) X X

Uncut thread ends 1" or more X

***Assembling Critical Major Minor

Mismatched stripes, checks or prints over 1/8" X

Asymmetrical collar (depends on obviousness) X X

Uneven collar point 1/4" X X

Facings pulling up X X

Uneven sleeve length 1/2" or more X

Uneven leg length 1/2" or more X

High/low pockets 1/4" or more X

Pocket not smooth / squared (depends on obviousness) X X

Pocket flap not centered over pocket 1/4" (depend on length) X X

Misaligned of cuff / neck 1/4" (depends on length) X X

Uneven hem line (depends on obviousness) X X

Revised 03/08/2018

***Washing Critical Major Minor

Different shade lots NEED BUYERS APPROVAL X

Uneven washing effect X

Streaky marks X

Pills / Hairy on garment surface (depends on density) X X

Broken collar / Cuff and Hem (depends on size) X X

Sand on garment surface X

Rocks inside pockets X

Different washing effect (if specified)

NEED BUYER’S APPROVAL PRIOR SHIPPING X

***Pressing Critical Major Minor

Wrinkle (depends on obviousness) X X

Seam not fully pressed open X

Crease mark (depends on seriousness) X X

Burn mark X

Water spot (depends on obviousness) X

Melt X

Glazed / Scorched mark (depends on obviousness) X X

Pleated press X X

Zip / button mark made by improper pressing X

Common defects in specific items

Shirt Critical Major Minor

Collar not symmetrical in size, shape or length (depends on size) X X

Exposed under collar at outside of top collar X

Foreign matter sewn inside the finished collar/yoke/cuff X

Open seam at collar points X

Interlining seen through X X

Flap points not fully turned out X

Revised 03/08/2018

Jacket/Outerwear Critical Major Minor

Puckering seam at hood facing (depends on obviousness) X X

Front placket not down to hem 1/4" or more X

Uneven fullness at armhole X

Wrong way insertion of zip (if specified) X X

Snap easily pulled off X

Uneven or loose elasticity on rib/bottom X

Loose quilting stitches X

Malfunctioning of buckle/snap/zipper X

Fabric easily torn at snap position X

A noticeable amount of down percolation on the lining X

Down leakage X

Exposed drill hole X

Incompatible interfacing causing cracking, puckering or bubbling X

Corresponding pockets horizontally uneven or misaligned 1/4" or

more

X

Color yarn caught inside shell fabric but obviously seen from

outside

X

Jeans Critical Major Minor

High-low waistband ends 1/4" or more X

Waistband corners not folded in right shape X

Inclined belt loops X

Mismatched belt loop color (depends on obviousness) X X

Pocket bag caught in tack X X

Missing bartack (at significant area if specified) X

Bulged fly (depends on obviousness) X X

Zip exposed when buttoned X

Rusted studs / rivets X

Twisted leg 1/2" or more X

Holes at hem after stone washing 1/4" or more X

Revised 03/08/2018

Knitted T-Shirt Critical Major Minor

Neck opening / collar not symmetrical X

Asymmetric body shape X

Twisted body at side seam 1/2" or more X

Twisted/slanted/curved/pleated placket (depends on obviousness) X X

Exposed row edge at cuff/hem (depends on obviousness) X X

Twisted seam at cuff / bottom (depends on obviousness) X X

Untrimmed seam allowance at inside hem (inside garment) X

Mismatched rib color (depends on obviousness) X

Mismatched stripes / checks at shoulder / side seam 1/8" or above

(depends on size)

X X

Neck opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) X X

Neck opening too big X

Sweater Critical Major Minor

Wrong knitting pattern X X

Barre X

Thin/thick place X

Single yarn (depending on seriousness) X X

Slub yarn X

Split yarn X

Yarn run X X

Knots (depending on size and frequency) X X

Hole (other than normal loop hole) X

Dirty yarn X X

Dropped stitches X

Garment weight below specification 1/2 lb or above X

Neck / opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment -

Critical)

X X

Twisted sleeve 1/2" or more X

Twisted body 1/2" or more at side seam X

Shoulder seam / side seam / underarm seam shown at front X

High/low placket 1/4" on bottom X

Revised 03/08/2018

Sweater (continued) Critical Major Minor

Zigzag seaming at armhole X

Facing exposed at placket X

Harsh hand feel X

Melt or excessive wash X

Spirally (10º or more) X

Loose linking X

Untrimmed seaming thread X

Tight/Insecure seam end at cuff/hem X

Different color of seaming yarn X X

Glazed or scorched press at seam X X

Flat press at cable X X

Shiny press at seaming X X

Less elastic at rib cuff/hem X X

Irremovable crease line X

Pull-out loop X

Leather Garments Critical Major Minor

Color shade difference within same garment X

Needle cutting X

Scratch/surgery/brand/burnt/paint/cut/stretch mark X

Glue/hammer mark X X

Belly/marbled/drawn/discolored grain X X

Dead fold mark/setting out pleats X

Without silica gel pack or no warning clause on it X

Variation in skin thickness across the garment X

Weak adhesion X

Loose hair on fur X

Pencil mark X X

Button mark X

Hanger mark X X

Scattered leather X

Grain break/peeling/wrinkles/cracks X

Pinholes X

Score X

Revised 03/08/2018

Socks Critical Major Minor

Uncut thread end X

Strings joining diamonds less than 1-1/4 inch X

Waviness at toe seam X

Pattern / embroidery deviated from center X

Misplated X

Twisted grain / ribs (¼ inch) X

Uneven toe X X

Open seam at heel gore X

Pilling X

Barre X X

Uneven sock length (max. 1/4 inch within the pair) X X

Uneven sock length (max. ½ inch from pair to pair) X X

Uneven Top width (max. 1/8 inch within the pair) X X

Uneven Top width (max. ¼ inch from pair to pair) X X

Spot X

Hole X

Wrong hook direction X

Misprint / invisible print on capper X

Sticker placement not centered (1/4 inch) X

Leather Garments Critical Major Minor

Brine draw X

Salt pits X

Large hair follicle holes in pig split affecting appearance X

Blood stain (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) X X

PVC Garments Critical Major Minor

Fold mark (depending on seriousness) X X

PVC torn at button X

PVC adhesion X

Needle damaged X

Revised 03/08/2018

Revised 03/08/2018

Appendix – Footwear Test Protocols

DXL Group – Performance Specifications

Boots and Shoes

Page 1 of 3

Test Property Test Method DXL Group Requirement

Labeling

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (If

claimed)

Wool Products Labeling Act

Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather

Products

EU Footwear Labeling Directive ( EU

distribution only)

Canada Stuffed Articles Act (Canada

distribution)

Visual Fiber Content Label

Care Label

Country of Origin

RN # or WPL #

Size

Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* (If claimed) AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 0% Single Fiber

+3% Blends

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASM D3776 + 5% from contracted weight

Thread Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight

Yarn Size* ( If requested) ASTM D1059 + 5% from contracted weight

Defects Visual assessment Report all defects

Appearance

General appearance Visual assessment No distortion, defects,

damaged components,

excessive shrinkage/puckering

between components

Colorfastness

CF to Crocking

General

Dark leather/suede

AATCC 8/116

Dry: Class 4

Wet: Class 3

Dry: Class 3

Wet: Class 2

Colorfastness to water: Color block/Contrast

trims

AATCC 107 Color change: class 4

Staining: class 3

Self-staining: class 4.5

Colorfastness to perspiration: Inner components AATCC 15 Color change: class 4

Staining: class 3


Performance

Heel attachment: heels >5 cm ASTM D1683 modified 150 lb minimum

Heel strength: heels >5 cm BS 5131 No bending or cracking after 5

cycles of 4 ft-lbs

Slip Resistance MTS 0.40 minimum static

0.30 minimum kinetic

Sole wearing resistance DIN 53516 No more than 350 cubic mm

volume loss

Flex Resistance (Upper component only) MTS/SATRA No cracking @35,000 cycles

Sole Bond durability MTS 10 lb minimum

Toe Bond durability MTS 30 lbs @ ½” circular sector

Reinforcement strength MTS 25 lb minimum

Tongue strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum

Revised 03/08/2018


Boots and Shoes

Page 2 of 3

Lace strength ASTM D1683 modified 75 lb minimum

Lace durability ASTM D3885 modified 100 cycles

Eyelet strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum

Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10

secs Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10

secs

Waterproofing if claimed MTS No leakage after 100,000

cycles

Analytical

Lead in surface coatings* ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm

(0.09% by weight)

Nickel * (For EU distribution only) Spot Test None present

Formaldehyde – skin contact areas* (For

EU distribution only)

Spot Test None present

Azocolorants* (For EU distribution only) EN14362 Less than 30 ppm * Dimethyl Furmarate (DMF) (For EU Distribution Only)

* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel) packets.

* When product comes in contact with skin, test up to 3 like materials of the largest surface area.

NOTE:

Vendor to provide PKG Desiccant document and

testing should only be completed if vendor cannot

provide signed document

MTS In house method

(Document Review)

Products placed or made available on the market shall comply with the

requirements of Directive

2009/251/EC.

Max limit: 0.1 mg DMF per kg of

the product or part of product.

Effective date: 01 May 2009.

NOTE:

- If the form is not filled out and

attached in the TRF, please ask

the vendor to return this form

- If the form is not returned

within 5 days of sending the

vendor the document, please

proceed with testing

- If the vendor cannot or will not

return the form, please proceed

with testing

Revised 03/08/2018


Boots and Shoes

Page 3 of 3

Sample Submission

USA Asia

Darkest colorway – Full

testing

Including 2 common fibers

3 pair $295.00 $195.00

Additional colorway –

Colorfastness only

2 pair 95.00 60.00

Fabric (If requested by DXL

Group)

1 ½ yards N/A N/A

Turnaround time (TAT) 3-4 working days

excluding analytical

Chemical fiber content per fiber 45.00 14.00

Microscopic fiber content

Two cellulosic fiber blend 95.00 65.00

Additional cellulosic fiber 50.00 22.00

One specialty hair fiber 100.00 32.00

Two specialty hair fiber blend 150.00 60.00

Additional specialty fiber 60.00 32.00

Lambs wool per yarn/per fiber 150.00 32.00

Lead Content 65.00 25.00

Nickel Qualitative Spot 15.00 each

Nickel Quantitative EN12471/EN1811 Coated -

$128.00

Uncoated -

$83.00

Azocolourants EN 14362 70.00

Formaldehyde Qualitative A056 15.00

Formaldehyde Quantitative ISO 14184 20.00

Note: Protocol base price includes fiber identification of 2 common fibers

*Additional charge

Individual test discount: 35% off local prices

Revised 03/08/2018

DXL Group – Performance Specifications Sandals

Page 1 of 3


Labeling


claimed)



Products

EU Footwear Labeling Directive (EU

distribution only)


distribution)


Care Label

Country of Origin

RN # or WPL #

Size

Fabric Construction


+3% Blends





Appearance


damaged components,


between components

Colorfastness

CF to Crocking

General

Dark leather/suede

AATCC 8/116

Dry: Class 4

Wet: Class 3

Dry: Class 3

Wet: Class 2


trims


Staining: class 3



Staining: class 3


Performance

Heel attachment: heels >5 cm ASTM D1683 modified 150 lb minimum

Heel strength: heels >5 cm BS 5131 No bending or cracking after 5

cycles of 4 ft-lbs




volume loss

Flex Resistance (If applicable) MTS/SATRA No cracking @35,000 cycles



Toe strap break MTS 25 lb minimum

Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10 secs

Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10

secs

Revised 03/08/2018

DXL Group – Performance Specifications Sandals

Page 2 of 3

Analytical


(0.09% by weight)






* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel)

packets.


NOTE:




MTS In house method

(Document Review)



2009/251/EC.




NOTE:










with testing

Revised 03/08/2018


Sandals

Page 3 of 3

Sample Submission

USA Asia


testing


3 pair $295.00 $195.00


Colorfastness only

2 pair $95.00 $60.00


Group)

1 ½ yards N/A N/A














$128.00

Uncoated -

$83.00





*Additional charge


Revised 03/08/2018


Athletic Wear

Page 1 of 3


Labeling


claimed)



Products


distribution only)


distribution)


Care Label

Country of Origin

RN # or WPL #

Size

Fabric Construction


+3% Blends





Appearance


damaged components,


between components

Colorfastness

CF to Crocking

General

Dark leather/suede

AATCC 8/116

Dry: Class 4

Wet: Class 3

Dry: Class 3

Wet: Class 2


trims


Staining: class 3



Staining: class 3


Atmospheric fumes (white only) AATCC 23 Class 4 minimum

Performance




volume loss

Flex Resistance (Upper component only) MTS/SATRA No cracking @35,000 cycles




Tongue strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum

Lace strength ASTM D1683 modified 75 lb minimum

Revised 03/08/2018


Athletic Wear

Page 2 of 3

Lace durability ASTM D3885 modified 100 cycles

Eyelet strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum

Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10

secs Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10

secs

Waterproofing if claimed* MTS No leakage after 100,000

cycles

Analytical


(0.09% by weight)






* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel) packets.


NOTE:




MTS In house method

(Document Review)



2009/251/EC.




NOTE:










with testing

Revised 03/08/2018


Athletic Wear

Page 3 of 3

Sample Submission

USA Asia


testing


3 pair $295.00 $195.00


Colorfastness only

2 pair $95.00 $60.00


Group)

1 ½ yards N/A N/A














$128.00

Uncoated -

$83.00





*Additional charge


Revised 03/08/2018

DXL Group – Performance Specifications Slippers

Page 1 of 3


Labeling


claimed)



Products


distribution only)


distribution)


Care Label

Country of Origin

RN # or WPL #

Size

Fabric Construction


+3% Blends





Appearance


damaged components,


between components

Colorfastness

CF to Crocking

General

Indigo dye, Pigment dye, Garment dye,

Lightly brushed or piled surface

AATCC 8/116

Dry: Class 4

Wet: Class 3

Dry: Class 3

Wet: Class 2


trims


Staining: class 3



Staining: class 3


Performance

Slip Resistance (Traditional non-textile sole) MTS 0.40 minimum static





Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10 secs

Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10

secs

Analytical


(0.09% by weight)


Formaldehyde – skin contact areas* (For EU

distribution only)


Azocolorants* (For EU distribution only) EN14362 Less than 30 ppm

Revised 03/08/2018


Slippers

Page 2 of 3 Analytical - continued

* Dimethyl Furmarate (DMF)

(For EU Distribution Only)

* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel)

packets.


NOTE:




MTS In house method

(Document Review)

Products placed or made available

on the market shall comply with the requirements of Directive

2009/251/EC.




NOTE:










with testing

Sample Submission

USA Asia

Darkest colorway – Full testing


3 pair $275.00 $180.00


Colorfastness only

2 pair $95.00 $60.00


Group)

1 ½ yards N/A N/A

Turnaround time (TAT) 3-4 working days excluding

analytical











Nickel Quantitative EN12471/EN1811 Coated - $128.00

Uncoated - $83.00





*Additional charge


Fabric and Garment Performance Testing - DXL 5... · Location of Defects: The location of a defect...

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