Chemistries for Personal Care

PureSyn™ Polyalphaolefins (PAO)

ExxonMobil ChemicalSynthetics Division

PureSyn™ Polyalphaolefins (PAO)

pH Stability of PureSyn™ PAO

High Purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids

Do not react with acid or base

Stable across entire pH range

Ideal for formulations containing:

AHA/BHA (Anti-aging products)

Strong Bases (Hair relaxers)

Non-Comedogenic

All of the PureSynTM PAO and Ester products are non-comedogenic.

Will not clog poresWill not clog pores

Also non-irritating

Substitute for petrolatum and other comedogenic emollients, for example

• isopropyl myristate

• oleyl alcohol

• safflower oil

• others

Oil-Free Formulations

PureSyn PAO has a hydrocarbon structure with some properties similar to mineral oil.

Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can have an oil-free distinction.

Ingredient list on the formulated product package would have INCI designation:

Hydrogenated polydecene

Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers

Polydecene

Broad range of SpreadabilityPureSynTM PAO and EstersPureSyn products cover the entire range of spreadability.

From very fast to slowFrom very fast to slow

Formulations can be designed with cascading effects by combining components.

May enhance sunscreen performance by providing tailored spreading on skin.

Wide range of emollient properties.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Reduction (PureSynTM PAO and Esters)

Certain PureSynTM products significantly reduce TEWL; comparable to petrolatum.

Higher molecular weights provide most Higher molecular weights provide most protection

Provide water retention in skin and barrier protection.

May enhance retention of active ingredients in upper skin layers.

Solubility Profiles Allow Significant Formulation Flexibility PureSynTM PAO and Esters

Broad spectrum of solubility in a range of commonly used cosmetic substances.

Including organic sunscreen active ingredients

Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3

May be matched to sunscreen active ingredients

Selected products have silicone compatibility, especially with dimethicones. May lead to:

improved aesthetics

reduced silicone in formulation

Can be used as carrier fluids and solubilizers.

Other Key Personal Care Characteristics PureSynTM PAO and Esters

Non-greasy with good skin feel

Provide emolliency Provide emolliency

Possess glossing characteristics

May provide water resistance properties

Film formation

Will not suppress foam like silicones

PolyAlphaOlefins (PAO)Synthetic high performance functional fluids

Hydrogenated (saturated) olefin polymers

Manufactured by the catalytic oligomerization of linear alphaolefins having 8 or more carbon atoms

Wax-free combination of relatively unbranched (compared to mineral oil) molecules of predetermined chain length

PAO Chemistry

Linear Oligomerization HydrogenationPAO

LinearAlphaolefins

Oligomerization HydrogenationPAO

PAO Chemistry - OligomerizationH2C CH

C2H5

H2C CH

n-C4H9

H2C CH

n-C6H13

H2C CH

DimersTrimersTetramers

H2C CH

2n-C

8H17

H2C CH

n-C10H21

H2C CH

n-C12H25

H2C CH

n-C14H30

1-C18=, 1-20=, 1-C22=.......

Ethylene Linear Alphaolefin Polyalphaolefins

TetramersPentamersHexamersHeptamersOctomers.....

PAO Chemistry - Hydrogenation

Hydrogen

H H

Hydrogen

New PAO Technology

Average Side Chain of 6-7 carbons Average Side Chain of 8 carbons

Conventional PureSyn™ PAO New, Patented PureSyn™ PAO

PureSyn™ PAO Typical PropertiesProperties Method 2 4 6

Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052 0.798 0.820 0.827

Brookfield Viscosity

@ 25oC, cPs Est. 6 30 50 @ 25 C, cPs Est. 6 30 50

Kinematic Viscosity

@ 100°C, cSt

D 445

1.7

4.1

5.7

@ 40°C, cSt D 445 5.0 18 30

Viscosity Index D 2270 NA 131 134

Pour Point, °C D 97 -66 -63 -54

Flash Point, °C D 92 154 221 243

Color, APHA D 1209 10 10 10

Properties Method 150 300

Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052 0.850 0.852

Brookfield Viscosity

@ 25oC, cPs Est. 2900 6200

Kinematic Viscosity

PureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties

Kinematic Viscosity

@ 100°C, cSt

D 445

150

300

@ 40°C, cSt D 445 1,500 3,100

Viscosity Index D 2270 218 241

Pour Point, °C D 97 -33 -27

Flash Point, °C D 92 >265 >265

Color, APHA D 1209 30 30

CTFA INCI NomenclaturePureSyn™ 2 - 6, 150 - 300 = Hydrogenated C6-14 Polyalphaolephins

CTFA = Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association

INCI = International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient name

Japanese Registration - JSCI Codes

Product Japan Code Japan Ingredient Name

PureSyn™ 2 N/A N/A

PureSyn 4 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer

PureSyn 6 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer PureSyn 6 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer

PureSyn 100 – 300 N/A N/A

PureSyn™ PAO BenefitsCan be variously characterized as:

High purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids

Wide viscosity range of productsWide viscosity range of products

Stable in high and low pH systems

Non-oily, Non-greasy

Broad spreadability range

Non-comedogenic

Bright and clear

Non-irritating

PureSyn™ PAO FunctionsMay be well-suited for use as:

Emollients/Lubricants

Water resistant agents

Occlusive barrier for moisturizationOcclusive barrier for moisturization

Film formers

Stable carrier fluids

Solubilizers

Glossing Agents

PureSyn™ PAO Personal Care Formulations

Cosmetics

AHA/BHA Products

Hair Relaxers

Antiperspirant/

Can be readily incorporated into:

AHA/BHA Products

Lotions and Creams

Sunscreens

Moisturizers

Antiperspirant/

Deodorants

Gels

Water-in Oil Emulsions

Additional PureSyn™ PAO Properties

Solubilities

Solubility Parameters

Lin Water solubilization

Carbomer dispersionCarbomer dispersion

Surface tension

Refractive Index

HLB (Required) values

Definition of Solubility Parameter• The solubility parameter is an indicator of the solubility characteristics

of one material with another.

• It is the square root of the cohesive energy density (cal/cc)0.5. Thisparameter gives an accurate estimation of the interaction energies in

many diverse systems.

• It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic• It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic

materials in formulated products.

• The solubility parameter of a particular material can be directly

measured by a variety of methods or it can be calculated

• The parameter can be calculated by adding up the component parts and

then used to predict possible uses, probable substitutions and potential

problem interactions.

• A general guideline is that if the solubility parameters for two or more

materials are within +/- 1.5 (cal/cc)0.5, they are miscible.

PureSyn™ PAO - Solubility Parameters: Fedors Correlation

Product Solubility Parameter

(cal/cc)0.5

PureSyn 2 7.99

PureSyn 4 8.09 PureSyn 4 8.09

PureSyn 6 8.14

PureSyn 150 8.38

PureSyn 300 8.38

PureSyn™PAO Surface Tension Measurements

Product Dynes/cm (24° C)

PureSyn 2 28.0

PureSyn 4 29.1

PureSyn 6 29.8 PureSyn 6 29.8

PureSyn 150 30.7

PureSyn 300 30.4

Measurement Procedure;PureSyn 2 - 100; Wilhelmy Plate MethodPureSyn 150 - 3000; Spinning Drop Method

PureSyn™PAO Refractive IndicesProduct @ 25oC

PureSyn 2 1.4418

PureSyn 4 1.4535

PureSyn 6 1.4565

PureSyn 150 1.4695 PureSyn 150 1.4695

PureSyn 300 1.4707

Mineral Oils 1.4670-1.4900

PureSyn™ PAO Potential Attributes in Personal Care Applications• Provide a broad range of spreadability values that may be used to

customize skin feel.

• Stable over a broad pH range for easy formulation of acidic alpha- and

beta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high pH hairbeta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high pH hair

relaxers.

• Compatible with a wide range of personal care ingredients including

certain sunscreen active ingredients and silicones.

• Can be readily incorporated into a broad range of skin and hair care

formulations.

• Provide barrier protection (high molecular weight/ high viscosity PAO)

in skin care applications by significantly reducing transepidermal

water loss.

PureSyn™ PAO (2-6)ExxonMobil PureSyn polyalphaolefins (PAO) are a unique class of premium fluids whose features set them apart from other hydrocarbon fluids such as mineral oils, petrolatum and polybutene. PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids that can be variously characterized as:Non-comedogenic Non-irritating OdorlessStable in high and low pH systemsWhen combined with other personal care ingredients, PureSyn PAO may impart a non-greasy or non-oily feel.

Antiperspirant Stick with PureSyn™ 3E20Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt%A DC 245 Fluid Cyclomethicone 40.25A Hansicone Ultrabee Dimethiconol Beeswax 5.00A PureSyn 3E20 Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate 5.00

A Stearyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol 18.00

A Crodafos CES Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate

0.50

A Peg 6000 Distearate PEG-150 Distearate 2.00A Myrj 59 PEG-100 Stearate 2.00A Synchrowax Erl-C C 18-36 Acid Glycol Ester 1.00B Cabosil M-5 Silica 0.75B Reach Azp 908 Suf Aluminum Zirconium, Tetrachlorohydrex GLY 24.00

C TALC 127 WC&D (Talc) Talc 1.00D Fragrance MF 8038 Fragrance 0.50

100.00

Blending Procedure1. Heat ingredients of phase A to 80°C2. Stop heating and add phase B3. Homomix while allowing to cool4. Add remaining phases at 60°C5. Pour at 55°C to 60°C

Anhydrous Antiperspirant Roll-On with PureSyn™ 6

Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt%A DC 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone 33.7A Bentone Gel VS-5 PC Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate20

This anhydrous suspension roll-on antiperspirant applies smoothly to the skin. It is designed to leave a smooth talc-like feel

A Bentone Gel VS-5 PC Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate20B PureSyn 6 Hydrogenated Polydecene 20C REZAL 36GP Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlohydex-Gly 20C TALC 338 Talc 2D DC193 Surfactant Dimethicone Copolyol 4D Fragrance Fragrance 0.3

Total 100

Blending Procedure1. Mix phase A using the Silverson at 3000 rpm with large head (approx. 3 mins.)2. Add phase B & C3. Mix phase D together and add to batch4. Mix on Silverson until uniform