Extended Abstract 48803

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D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril

September 2009

Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal

Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedrodo Estoril.

D. F. Antunes

Eng. Mecnica

Instituto Superior Tcnico,

1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal

[email protected]

ABSTRACT:

In one of the tanks with beaters for waves of the LNEC, a reduced scale physical model with

30mx30m, was built for the study of the sea agitation in an artificial surf reef . The model reproduces

the bathymetry of the place, the topography of costal cliffs, and also the reef drawing.

The objective is to test the reef drawing in the physical model, in order to optimize it according to the

respective drawing parameters. It also intends to secure that the physical model is loyal to the

agitation in the place, since the model will be an object of a public consultation in the context of the

evaluation process of the environmental impact.

This physical model culminates one year of data and numerical studies gathering on the reef model,

including the establishment of the climatology, the waviness in the place, and the test of several reef

drawings. The drawing introduced in the model is the one, that according to the numerical

simulations, produces better quality waves for the surf practice. For this, it will be necessary to measure the wave

quality with 5 parameters: - speed of the wave (peel angle), - form of the tube (Number of Irribarren), - wave height, -

wall (ramp for manoeuvres), - wave quality and regularity along the reef. The wave parameters will be valued for each

series of per-specified conditions, of the wave height , of the tide height, of the incident angle of the waviness and of the

wave period, being enough for the analysis to study monochromatic waves. These 5 parameters will also be compared

with the measurements effectuated in the LNEC waves tank.

Key words: Surf Parameters, Peel Angle, Evaluation, Wave Quality Evaluation methodology, Distortion, Perspective

geometry, Coordinate transformation, Unit to score conversion, Photogrammetry.

1.Introduction.

This theory main subject is the Physical Modelling of

an artificial surf reef, in So Pedro do Estoril, Portugal.

This work intends to study the quality of the sea

agitation on an artificial reef using the physical existent

model in the National Laboratory of Civil Engineering

(L.N.E.C.), located in Lisbon, Portugal. This project is

financially supported by the Cascais Town Hall.

Figure 1-S. Pedro ASR Perfect Wave in the wave tank during a test on the LNEC, in Lisbon, Portugal
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]


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2. Application in the Main Project.

A protocol amongst the CMC, LNEC, IST and FCUL

was signed on the 16th

of November of 2006, in order

to provide S. Pedro do Estoril, a 300m long World

Class Wave, using big solid rock blocks as raw

Material. This Theory intends to study the results onthe best waves to Surf in the S. Pedro ASR, according

to the tests[ made in L.N.E.C.

3. Product Development and

Entrepreneurship (PDE).

As an Introduction to the central subject of this theory,

a theoretical base is presented, as well as the framing

of this dissertation in the extend of the PDEsubject. A

Study was taken based on the perspective of the ASR

seen as a Product, and the Costumer explicit and

hidden needs were identified.

This study contains the enormous set of entities who

directly and indirectly exist and are rising up in the surf

Market. If all of these entities are gathered, they

actually make part of a important piece in the

Economy.

Figure 2- Indirect users on an ASR.

Is S. Pedro a good Spot for the implementation of

an ASR?

The answer lies on this PDE study, and is based on

the fact that this coast band is very consistent in terms

of swell, and has a favourable geographical disposal

but the main problem lies on the crowd. The need of aWorld Class wave in this spot is also an important

need.

The big amount of medium quality waves is shown in

Figure3.

Figure 3- Big amount of Surf Spots in the Estoril Coast region

This Sport is Booming, and this statement taken from

the EUROSIMA after an Inquiry to a set of young

persons, aged between 15 and 25 year Old, about

the next Sport to try, 90% answered SURF confirms it.

The Relation between the good and bad aspects about

the existing waves is shown in the next diagram.

Figure 4- Good versus Bad aspects on the existing waves.

The set of needs is shown in the following diagram:

Figure 5- Explicit and Hidden needs on S. Pedro ASR.

Since the origins of Man History, Sports have a very

important paper in the Society, and giant support

ASR

A.Surf

Session

Management

Whats GOODabout the

existent Waves?

Whats BADabout the

existent Waves?

Explicit Needs Hidden Needs

-To protect the Costal Belt.

-Overcoming the Crowd.

-The need of a World ClassWave.

-The spot needs an interactiveattraction.

-Develop the spot maintainingits natural Beauty and

environment.

-Development of the Fauna and Floraon this lifeless spot .

-Its a great way to suppot the Sports, motto of the Cascais Town Hall.

-Its a way to show up Portugals

creative and Techneological Spirit .-Makes of this Spot a Potential

investments centre.

-Strong Turistic Attractive. To pointout places that were developed on an

exemplary form thanks to have aWorld class wave:In Portugal

(Peniche, Sagres and Ericeira) andalso in the rest of the World

(Mundaka in the Basque Country,Kirra in the Australian Gold Coast,J.Bay in South Africa, and also the

Landaise Region in France)


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infrastructures were created in order to improve its

quality.

The surf problem is based on its extreme dependency

on Natural conditions, such as the Waves, the Wind,

and for last, a factor where Human intervention is

Possible the, the Bathymetry.If Human intervention is possible, to improve the

bottoms of the sea, the creation of an artificial Surf

Reef, is a project that reduces the dependency of the

natural conditions for a Sport, and therefore can be

compared to the construction of a Football stadium.

In order to understand the ASR, and having theoretical

basis of the variables on demand, a short description

is done about what is the surf and the ASRs, as well

as the several ways to take advantage and enjoying

playfully and economically the ASRs.

The main activities taken on an ASR are several such

as:

-Bodysurf

-Bodyboard

-Kneeboard-

-Kayaksurf

-Windsurf

-Longboard

-Paddlesurf

-Shortboard

-Tow in

-Spearfishing

-Snorkeling.

-Fishing

There is also given a little of the surf and ASRs

historical framing, which points to the fishing ASR in

the Algarve, on the south region of Portugal, as well

as the first ASRs in the world, used in the Punic war by

the Romans for costal territorial defence.

4. The Physical Model:

In this chapter, here is let know the physical model, his

functioning, as well as aspects that might bring him

eventually improvements.

It is set in the LNEC, and was built in a 1:30 Scale. In

this model it is possible to control the tides, and the

wave beater can produce waves from 1 to 4 meters,

and Wave period of 11, 15 and 19 seconds.

The tests equipments are mainly:

Figure 3-A-Hydraulic wave Beater; B-Wave Height sensors;

C-Plate and guides set:

The two plates were assembled in order to eliminate

major wave diffraction.

The reef is 6,66m long, 1,33m wide, and has a 4,3

slope.

Figure 6- Reef dimensions.

The entire set can reproduce swell from two directions,

but the reef is located on a 30 peel angle and is

positioned always in this position.

The top view of the entire set is show in Figure 4

Figure 7- Total set top view and wave beater disposals.


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5. Technical Procedure:

The technical data is obtained photographically, and

also from the control Tower, connected to the wave

height sensors and wave beaters.

The investigators chose a spot over the reef on aladder, and take sequential pictures over the different

test as shown in Figure 5. A video Camera is also

recording the whole tests, for subsequent reviews.

Figure 8- Investigators physical disposal.

The collected data is later analysed and treated

according to a theoretical evaluation method for the

various tests.

6. The theoretical Evaluation Method

MTMAQO:

According to this evaluation method, there were

created evaluation parameters, described, scheduled,

and valued in the form to be able to be quantified.

Therefore was created an analysis mechanism for the

parameters obtained experimentally. This mechanism,

was created by the author, whom it allows through a

quality evaluation theoretical model, to obtain a wave

quality quantification.

This model is called by Theoretical Model of wave

quality Evaluation Mechanism and its Portuguese

minor name is MTMAQO.

In a first phase of the model MTMAQO application, it

is possible to obtain an evaluation, based on the

conjugation of several evaluated parameters. Theselevel one parameters are in this ASR specific case, 11

surf Parameters. The collected data analysis, sets on

converting measured parameter values into parameter

SCORES on each test.

So, the first step on the MTMAQO, is to convert the

values of the parameters into SCORES. The SCORE

has a 0 to 10 Scale of importance.

In a more advanced phase application of the

theoretical model, the several SCORE parameters, are

valued to a specific Level two evaluation. The

importance of each level one parameter is set on a

table, and a conjugated SCORE is obtained according

to the importance weight of each level one parameter

SCORE. in the second phase, a Specific subject

evaluation is defined.

On the same basis, and managing, the several level

two evaluations, the importance weight of each, is set,and on a conjugation of these level two evaluations, a

level tree evaluation is obtained, in a way that

translates the final quality of the wave

On this last application of study, there are presented

analogies to several levels of evaluation of the model,

that all combined in the end, provide a final Evaluation

for waves produced on the tests as shown on Figure 6.

Figure 9- The MTMAQO evaluation Pyramid. Level one, twoand three.

7. Level One Surf Parameters:

Several problems show up when intending to SCORE

the eleven level one parameters.

-PA: Peel Angle, is the angle between the wave line

and the foam line. It sets the speed of the wave.

Figure 10- Variable peel Angles in a Natural Surf Reef , inGland, Indonesia.

-TUBO: Tube, It provides an evaluation of the tube

type.

-HEIGHT or H: Provides the height of the wave

Figure 11- Measuring Wave height
http://coconutgirlwireless.files.wordpress.com/2007/08/wave-height.gif


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-WALL: Means the available surface for manoeuvres.

-Q&R: It provides a measurement of the wave Quality

and Regularity along the ASR.

-BW: Back Wash, is a wave collision phenomenal.

-CF: Collision on the reef. This parameter presents the

danger of crashing.-START: It represents the beginning of the wave, and

the difficulty on the drop.

-MOVE: It describes the comfort and mobility inside

the surf spot.

-P. Wave Period, is the time gap between two waves.

-TIDE: The tide has effects on the waves

8.Data Analysis:

8.1 Unit to SCORE conversion

The results obtained from the tests, hold, the

respective physical units, namely HEIGHT in meter

and PA in degrees.

In order to be able to attribute these parameters an

evaluation (SCORE) on a 0 to 10 scale, it is necessary

to convert his physical unity (UNIT) value into the

SCORE scale, and this way it is possible to use the

MTMQAO.

This conversion method, consists in expressing a

function, which defines a value of classification

(SCORE), on basis of the value of the physicist (UNIT)

unity. Therefore:

SCORE=f(unit) [eq.1]

with the intention of obtaining the conversion function

f, the method of the polynomial interpolation is used

on basis of some reference values. These reference

values, are initially defined by the maximum physical

unity of note SCORE=10, the minimum value

SCORE=0, as well as the limit for acceptable value

SCORE=5.

Afterwards, other intermediate values, are defined to

translate a more refined behaviour of the function.

Depending on the values, so can be possible to define

the conversion in one single polynomial function, or a

on a set of functions divided by regions defined by as

many interpolation polynomial of ordern as possible,

depending on the values. A graphical display is carried

out with polynomial functions, and an analogical

SCORE function is obtained.

8.1.1 HEIGHT SCORE

For the height score, a single polynomial Function isenough to define the behaviour of this unit conversion.

The reference values are:

- Maximum SCORE=10, H=3 m, this value is

attributed on basis of the initial objective, in what it

takes this ASR objective on the production of a World

Class Wave, in which the ideal size for professional

surfers is 3 m high waves.- Minimum SCORE=0, H=0m logically, as there are

no waves, the classification is null.

- Acceptable limit SCORE=5, H=0,5m the least size

in order to exist the minimum conditions for the

practice of this surf sports is the half meter.

Adding some more values to improve the function

behaviour, a values table is obtained, and the

interpolation is taken on the basis of this values as

show in the following Table1 and Figure 7.

Table 1- HEIGHT reference and function SCORES.

Figure 12- Wave HEIGHT Score plot.

According to this results, the order 5 polynomial

Function obtained for Wave HEIGHT SCORE is:

F(H)=SCORE= 0,0487(H)5 - 0,6591(H)4 + 3,3812(H)3- 9,2585(H)2 + 14,677(H) - 0,9725 [eq. 2]

8.1.2 PA SCORE.

The same reasoning is taken upon the peel angle, but

this function has a more variable behaviour, what

makes it a function divided by 3 polynomial functions.

- Maximum SCORE=10, PA=30 this value was

attributed on basis of the ASR objective: the

construction of a world class Wave, in which the ideal

angle for professional surfers is of 30 , and is also the

limit angle. Below this value it is very hard to surf.

H, Altura da onda real

(m)

SCORE atribudo

(0 a 10)

SCORE dado pela

funo aproximada f(H)

SCORE =

erro mximo

0 0 -0,97 0,97

0,1 0,1 0,41 0,31

0,2 0,5 1,62 1,12

0,3 2 2,68 0,68

0,4 4 3,62 0,38

0,5 5 4,43 0,57

1 7,8 7,22 0,58

1,5 8,5 8,66 0,16

2 9 9,41 0,41

2,5 9,5 9,70 0,20

3 10 9,47 0,53

4 7 7,14 0,14

5 4 3,85 0,15

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- Minimum SCORE=0, PA=0 logically, if the wave

bursts all at the same time, the classification is null.

- Acceptable limit SCORE=5, PA=60 the acceptable

is 60 , since for more than that the wave becomes

very slow.

The reference Values, as well as the 3 function plots,are shown on Table 2 and Figure 8.

Table 2- PA reference and function SCORES.

Figure 13- PA SCORE plot.

According to this results, the 3 polynomial Functions

obtained for Peel Angle PA is:

SCORE=f1(PA) if 23>PA>0 ,

SCORE=f2(PA) if 30>PA>23 ,

SCORE=f3(PA) if 30>PA>90

f(PA)=

f1(PA)= 0,0012*(PA)^2 - 0,0126*(PA) + 0,1053

if 23>PA>0

f2(PA)=(-0,0378*(PA)^3)+(3,1691*(PA) 2)-

(86,54*(PA)+774,38 if 30>PA>23

f3(PA) = (0,0015*(PA) 2)-0,3561*(PA) +19,675)

if 30>PA>90 [eq.3]

8.2 Importance of each parameter on the Level two

evaluation.

In this level two evaluation, there was given a specific

evaluation for the:

-Security S

-Beginner surfer level NA

-Regular surfer level NM

-Professional surfer level NP

-Visual Impact an Touristic investment potential POT

In order to provide a level two SCORE, weights are

attributed to each parameter, with the intention of

gather the influence of each level one parameter on

the level two evaluation. This weights were attributed

by the author, but the MTMAQO, has flexibility, for any

investigator values attribution.The Values, and equation for each level two

evaluation are shown in Tables 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7.

Table 3- Security analysis.

S=((10-PA)*0,1)+((10-TUBO)*0,1)+((10-HEIGHT)*0,12)+((10-WALL)*0,05)+Q&R*0,05)

+(BW*0,07)+(CF*0,19)+(START*0,1)+(MOVE*0,05)+(P*0,02)+(TIDE*0,15) [eq.4]

Table 4- Learning level analysis.

NA=((10-PA)*0,05)+((10-TUBO)*0,2)+((10-HEIGHT)*0,13)+((10-WALL)*0,1+(Q&R*0,1)

+(BW*0,05)+(CF*0,1)+(START*0,15)+(MOVE*0,05)+(P*0,02)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq.5]

Table 5- Professional level analysis.

NP=(PA*0,15)+(TUBO*0,25)+(HEIGHT*0,21)+(WALL*0,1)+(Q&R*0,08)+(BW*0,02)+

(CF*0,05)+(START*0,02)+(MOVE*0,02)+(P*0,05)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq. 6]

Table 6- Medium level analysisThis table contains averagevalues on tables 4 and 5.

NM=(PA*0,1)+(TUBO*0,225)+(HEIGHT*0,17)+(WALL*0,1)+(Q&R*0,09)+(BW*0,035)+

(CF*0,075)+(START*0,085)+(MOVE*0,035)+(P*0,035)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq.7]

Peel Angle ( )

SCORE atribudo

(0 a 10)

SCORE dado pela funo

aproximada f(PA)

score = erro

mximo

0 0,1 -0,013 0,087

10 0,12 0,107 0,013

15 0,2 0,257 0,057

20 0,3 0,467 0,167

23 0,5 0,501 0,001

24 0,8 0,274 0,526

25 1 0,942 0,058

28 6 6,049 0,049

29 9 8,029 0,971

30 10 10,342 0,342

35 9 9,049 0,049

40 8 7,831 0,169

50 6 5,620 0,380

60 5 3,709 1,291

65 2 2,866 0,866

70 1 2,098 1,098

90 0,1 -0,224 0,124

y = 0,0012x2 -

0,0126x + 0,1053

0

0,1

0,2

0,3

0,4

0,5

0,6

0 10 20 30

y = -0,0378x3 + 3,1691x2 -

86,546x + 774,38

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

0 20 40

y = 0,0015x2 - 0,3561x

+ 19,675

-2

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

0 50 100

Weight %

1 10-PA 0,10 10,00

2 10-TUBO 0,10 10,00

3 10-HEIGHT 0,12 12,00

4 10-WALL 0,05 5,00

5 Q&R 0,05 5,00

6 BW 0,07 7,00

7 10-CF 0,19 19,00

8 START 0,10 10,00

9 MOVE 0,05 5,00

10 P 0,02 2,00

11 10-TIDE 0,15 15,00

SUM= 1,00 100,00

Quality on Security

weight %

1 10-PA 0,05 5

2 10-TUBO 0,2 20

3 10-HEIGHT 0,13 13

4 10-WALL 0,1 10

5 Q&R 0,1 10

6 BW 0,05 5

7 CF 0,1 10

8 START 0,15 15

9 MOVE 0,05 5

10 P 0,02 2

11 10-TIDE 0,05 5

SUM= 1,00 100

Quality level Aprendizagem

Weight %

1 PA 0,15 15

2 TUBO 0,25 25

3 HEIGHT 0,21 21

4 WALL 0,1 10

5 Q&R 0,08 8

6 BW 0,02 2

7 CF 0,05 5

8 START 0,02 2

9 MOVE 0,02 2

10 P 0,05 5

11 TIDE 0,05 5

SUM= 1,00 100

Quality level Profissional

Weight %

1 PA 0,225 22,5

2 TUBO 0,17 17

3 HEIGHT 0,1 10

4 WALL 0,09 9

5 Q&R 0,035 3,5

6 BW 0,075 7,5

7 CF 0,085 8,5

8 START 0,035 3,5

9 MOVE 0,035 3,5

10 P 0,05 5

11 TIDE 1 100

SUM= 1,90 190

Quality level Mdio


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Table 7- POT analysis.

POT=(PA*0,02)+(TUBO*0,18)+(HEIGHT*0,2)+(WALL*0,12)+(Q&R*0,3)+(BW*0,02)+

(CF*0,02)+(START*0,02)+(MOVE*0,02)+(P*0,05)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq. 8]

8.3 RAW analysis

The values on this last 5 tables are used to a Raw

evaluation. It is also important to point out the fact

that, this last table7, as well as all the other four, have

been characterized by parameter weights stipulated by

the author, to make the Raw evaluation, where it is

reasonable to use this values, but in a more refined

evaluation, this values will change, for improvement.

This raw evaluation, was made to both wave directions

of220, and 235, and provides good results as shown

in Tables 8 and 9.

The results were very similar for both wave direction,and those are show, in the following plots.

On the 220 RAW analysis, the 3 best wave SCOREs

obtained per major order were:

1st 220 MB 19 2

2nd

220 MB 11 2

3rd

220 MB 15 1

On the 235 RAW analysis, the 3 best wave SCOREs

obtained per major order were the same as in the 220

analysis.

Table 8- Raw evaluation values for 220.

Table 9- Raw evaluation values for 235.

Weight %

1 PA 0,02 2

2 TUBO 0,18 18

3 HEIGHT 0,2 20

4 WALL 0,12 12

5 Q&R 0,3 30

6 BW 0,02 2

7 CF 0,02 2

8 START 0,02 2

9 MOVE 0,02 2

10 P 0,05 5

11 TIDE 0,05 5

SUM= 1,00 100

Quality leve l POT

NIVEL 1

Segurana

Qualidade

Aprendizagem

Qualidade

Profissional

Qualidade nivel

Mdio

Qualidade a nivel de

impacto Visual

Qualidade

Final

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

N Mar condio PERIODO ALTURA PA TUBO HEIGHT WALL Q&R BW CF START MOVE P TIDE SCORE

1 MB 11 1 1 10 6 6 7,5 9,5 10 7 5 9 7 8 4,14 5,16 7,35 7,235 7,6 6,297

2 MB 11 2 2 10 8 7 8 9,5 10 6,7 7 8,5 7 8 4,027 4,825 8,125 8,035 8,244 6,6512

3 MB 11 3 3 10 6 8 8,5 7 10 6,7 8 7 7 8 3,982 4,87 7,675 7,6125 7,384 6,3047

4 MB 11 4 4 10 1 8,5 6,5 5,5 10 6 8,3 6 7 8 4,56 5,78 6,161 6,1755 5,866 5,7085

5 MB 15 1 1 10 9 6 8 9 10 6 6 9 8 8 4,1 4,53 8,13 7,96 8,1 6,564

6 MB 15 2 2 10 8 7 8 8,5 10 6,3 7 8 8 8 4,048 4,68 8,065 7,9325 7,976 6,5403

7 MB 15 3 3 10 1 8 2 1,5 10 6 6 7 8 8 4,485 5,62 5,31 5,155 4,05 4,924

8 MB 19 1 1 10 9 6 7 ,5 9,5 10 6 5 8 ,7 9 8 4,055 4,485 8,144 7,8945 8,214 6,5585

9 MB 19 2 2 10 8,5 7 8 9 10 6 7,5 8 9 8 4,15 4,695 8,275 8,145 8,27 6,707

10 MB 19 3 3 10 6 8 7 ,5 7,5 10 6 9 ,5 7,8 9 8 4,42 5,255 7,726 7,7305 7,546 6,5355

11 MM 11 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 10 10 7 7 7,69 7,09 1,1 1,795 1,1 3,755

12 MM 11 2 2 10 6 7 1,5 3 10 7 7,2 9,4 7 7 4,385 5,38 6,442 6,371 5,132 5,542

13 MM 11 3 3 10 3 8 6 2 10 7 3 6 7 7 3,7 4,5 6,12 5,75 4,88 4,99

14 MM 11 4 4 10 2 8 2,5 1,5 10 7 6 4 7 7 4,15 5,35 5,5 5,315 4,15 4,893

15 MM 15 1 1 0 0 0 0 0,5 10 0 10 10 8 7 8,435 7,66 1,39 2,225 1,5 4,242

16 MM 15 2 2 10 2 7 5,5 5 10 7 7 7 8 7 4,565 5,85 6 5,985 5,49 5,578

17 MM 15 3 3 10 3 8 6,5 4 10 7 6 6 8 7 4,095 5,12 6,44 6,27 5,65 5,515

18 MM 15 4 4 10 1 8,5 1 1 10 7 4 4 8 7 4,06 5,305 5,175 4,845 3,75 4,627

19 MM 19 1 1 10 0 6 0,5 0 10 7 9,8 9,8 9 7 5,325 6,96 4,552 4,786 2,992 4,923

20 MM 19 2 2 10 2 7 3 1 10 7 6 8,8 9 7 4,5 5,66 5,496 5,388 4,056 5,02

21 MM 19 3 3 10 4 8 5,5 5,5 10 7 5 6 9 7 4,04 5,04 6,74 6,48 6,19 5,698

22 MM 19 4 4 10 6 8,5 7 6,5 10 7 6,5 5,8 9 7 3,895 4,74 7,601 7,3755 7,156 6,1535

23 MC 11 1 1 10 0 0 0 0 10 8 10 10 7 6 6,02 7,94 3,15 3,695 1,61 4,483

24 MC 11 2 2 10 1 7 0,5 0,5 10 8 9,7 9,7 7 6 5,035 6,77 4,948 5,169 3,388 5,062

25 MC 11 3 3 10 2 8 3 5,5 10 8 7 7 7 6 4,535 6,15 5,95 5,94 5,46 5,607

26 MC 11 4 4 10 5 8 6 5 10 8 8 4 7 6 4,01 5,2 6,92 6,85 6,17 5,83

27 MC 15 1 1 10 0 0,5 0,5 0 10 8 10 10 8 6 5,955 7,845 3,355 3,865 1,82 4,568

28 MC 15 2 2 10 5 7 2,5 6,5 10 8 9,3 9,3 8 6 4,795 6,31 6,662 6,796 6,182 6,149

29 MC 15 3 3 10 4 8 1,5 2 10 8 8,4 7 8 6 4,395 5,78 6,098 6,079 4,668 5,404

30 MC 15 4 4 10 0 8 0 0,5 10 8 6 4 8 6 4,405 6,07 4,72 4,585 3,21 4,598

31 MC 19 1 1 10 0 0 0 0 10 0 10 10 9 6 7,58 7,18 2,85 3,165 1,55 4,465

32 MC 19 2 2 10 2 4 2 0,5 10 8 8,5 7,5 9 6 5,03 6,56 4,75 4,925 3,18 4,889

33 MC 19 3 3 10 7 8 5 7,5 10 8 9 7,3 9 6 4,29 5,505 7,706 7,6955 7,346 6,5085

34 MC 19 4 4 10 7 8,1 6 7 10 8 9,2 7 9 6 4,208 5,357 7,785 7,774 7,334 6,4916

19

11

ANEXO V /1.1

Direco 220

15

NIVEL 2

MEIA

CHEIA

NIVEL 3

SECUNDARIOS

BAIXA

19

11

15

19

PRINCIPAIS

11

15

NIVEL 1

Segurana

Qualidade

Aprendizagem

Qualidade

Profissional

Qualidade nivel

Mdio

Qualidade a nivel de

impacto Visual

Qualidade

Final

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

N Mar condio PERIODO ALTURA PA TUBO HEIGHT WALL Q&R BW CF START MOVE P TIDE SCORE

1 MB 11 1 1 10 6 6 7 ,5 9,5 10 6,7 5,5 9,2 7 8 4,257 5,215 7,349 7,262 7,608 6,3382

2 MB 11 2 2 10 8 7 8 9,5 10 6,5 7,5 8,7 7 8 4,125 4,89 8,129 8,0695 8,254 6,6935

3 MB 11 3 3 10 6 8 8,5 7 10 6,4 8,5 7,2 7 8 4,099 4,925 7,674 7,6395 7,392 6,3459

4 MB 15 1 1 10 9 6 8 9 10 5,7 6,5 9 8 8 4,207 4,575 8,125 7,98 8,104 6,5982

5 MB 15 2 2 10 8 7 8 8,5 10 6,1 7,5 8,3 8 8 4,151 4,75 8,071 7,9705 7,988 6,5861

6 MB 15 3 3 10 1 8 2 1,5 10 5,8 6,4 7 8 8 4,563 5,66 5,308 5,174 4,054 4,9518

7 MB 19 1 1 10 9 6 7,5 9,5 10 5,7 5,5 8,8 9 8 4,167 4,535 8,141 7,918 8,22 6,5962

8 MB 19 2 2 10 8,5 7 8 9 10 5,8 8 8,5 9 8 4,263 4,775 8,285 8,19 8,286 6,7598

9 MB 19 3 3 10 6 8 7,5 7,5 10 5,7 10 8 9 8 4,537 5,31 7,725 7,7575 7,554 6,5767

10 MM 11 1 1 10 8 0 0 0 0 0 10 10 7 7 5,89 4,99 4,6 4,595 2,74 4,563

11 MM 11 2 2 10 1 7 1,5 3 10 6,8 7,7 9,6 7 7 4,983 6,445 5,196 5,2805 4,242 5,2293

12 MM 11 3 3 10 3 8 6 2 10 6,7 3,5 6,2 7 7 3,817 4,555 6,119 5,777 4,888 5,0312

13 MM 15 2 2 10 2 7 5,5 5 10 6,8 7,5 7,3 8 7 4,668 5,92 6,006 6,023 5,502 5,6238

14 MM 15 3 3 10 3 8 6,5 4 10 6,7 6,5 6,1 8 7 4,207 5,17 6,437 6,2935 5,656 5,5527

15 MM 19 1 1 10 0 6 0,5 0 10 6,7 10 10 9 7 5,412 6,97 4,545 4,7875 2,994 4,9417

16 MM 19 2 2 10 2 7 3 1 10 6,8 6,5 9 9 7 4,598 5,725 5,5 5,4225 4,066 5,0623

17 MM 19 3 3 10 4 8 5 ,5 5,5 10 6,7 5,5 6,2 9 7 4,157 5,095 6,739 6,507 6,198 5,7392

18 MM 19 4 4 10 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 6,1 4,8 1,5 1 0,2 2,72

MEIA

11

15

19

ANEXO V 2.1

NIVEL 3

PRINCIPAIS SECUNDARIOS

BAIXA

11

Direco 235

15

19

NIVEL 2


8/10


September 2009


Figure 14- Plots for RAW SCOREs in 220 and 235.

8.4 REFINED Analysis

This analysis intends to improve the results obtained

on the RAW analysis, and the difference between both

analysis, relays on the scientific and carefully

measured data and posterior conversion for the PA

and HEIGHT SCOREs as shown in section 8.1

8.4.1 POT improvement:

Another improvement lays on inquiries made to all

types of potential tourists, and with the gathered

information acquired in the inquiry, a new table was

set, and the data on Table 7 was upgraded to a more

realist evaluation as shown on Table 10.

Table 10- Weights according to POT inquiries.

Quality for POT Weight %

1 TUBO 2,175793 21,75793

2 ALTURA 1,988473 19,88473

3 PAREDE 2,161383 21,61383

4 Q&R 2,04611 20,4611

5 MAR 1,628242 16,28242

SUM= 10,00 100

This Table was obtained by the average on the 18

realized enquiries.

For this Refined analysis, before making the

Parameters SCORE conversion, it has been

necessary to gather values from the tests data, the

values of HEIGHT and PA.

8.4.2 HEIGHT improvement: This values were

specially analysed separately, and for the wave

HEIGHT, the Procedure included the wave height

sensors plots on each test, as shown in Figure

Figure 15- Wave height plot for the 220 MB 11 2 test.

A line was plotted over the major wave height values,

and the average value of the wave along these point

was considered the HEIGHT to use in SCORE=

F(HEIGHT) in order to obtain the respective SCORE

for this test. This procedure was made to all the tests,

and this way, the HEIGHT SCORES were inserted on

the REFINED analysis table.

8.4.3 PA improvement and the Distortion Problem:

For the Peel Angle, a big problem occurred when

measuring the angle from the sequential top view

pictures taken during the tests. This problem is the

MB 11 1

MB 11 2

MB 11 3

MB 11 4

MB 15 1

MB 15 2

MB 15 3

MB 19 1

MB 19 2

MB 19 3MM 11 1

MM 11 2

MM 11 3

MM 11 4

MM 15 1

MM 15 2

MM 15 3

MM 15 4

MM 19 1

MM 19 2

MM 19 3

MM 19 4

MC 11 1

MC 11 2

MC 11 3

MC 11 4

MC 15 1

MC 15 2

MC 15 3

MC 15 4

MC 19 1

MC 19 2

MC 19 3

MC 19 4

6,297

6,6512

6,3047

5,7085

6,564

6,5403

4,924

6,5585

6,707

6,53553,755

5,542

4,99

4,893

4,242

5,578

5,515

4,627

4,923

5,02

5,698

6,1535

4,483

5,062

5,607

5,83

4,568

6,149

5,404

4,598

4,465

4,889

6,5085

6,4916

RAW WAVE SCORE 220

anexo V/ 1.2

MB 11 1

MB 11 2

MB 11 3

MB 15 1

MB 15 2

MB 15 3

MB 19 1

MB 19 2

MB 19 3

MM 11 1

MM 11 2

MM 11 3

MM 15 2

MM 15 3

MM 19 1

MM 19 2

MM 19 3

MM 19 4

6,3382

6,6935

6,3459

6,5982

6,5861

4,9518

6,5962

6,7598

6,5767

4,563

5,2293

5,0312

5,6238

5,5527

4,9417

5,0623

5,7392

2,72

RAW SCORE 235

anexo V/2.2

Hreal_Mdia 1.92


9/10


September 2009


pictures Distortion and so a Photogrammetry study

was made, and the author overcome this situation.

Although the problem has been solved, it is a very

complicated and extremely extensive. For each

picture, a long term procedure takes action on a

pictures reference geometry viewed on theAUTOCAD Software, and several algorithms in the

MATHEMATICA Software are set to run, to obtain in

the final Pell Angle.

This Study begins by setting the chosen picture on the

Autocad, defining a Picture coordinate system, and

identify common points in the picture and in the REAL

reference coordinate axis plot in Figure 13.

Figure 16- REAL Reference, coordinate Axis.

With a minimum of 4 identified common points on

the (PX)REAL reference axis and on the

(Px)Picture coordinate system, it is possible to

determine any other Picture additional point real

coordinate.

Figure 17- Perspective Geometry.

The method is based on the Bydimensional Invariance.

Taking the values of the 4 point of each coordinate

system, as well as the wanted point coordinates in Px,

and inserting them into the algorithm based upon 2

matrixes like the one on Figure 13 , the REAL

coordinate of an extra unknown point is obtained.

Figure 18- Equation Matrix to obtain extra point coordinate.

Repeating the procedure for 3 points, and applying this

3 point on a vector analysis algorithm, the obtained

result is the REAL Peel Angle , as Show on the

following example.

Example on test 220 MB 15 1, Picture 264, and

MATHEMATICA algorithm code.

Figure 19- Test 220 MB 15 1, Picture 264.

Determination in the REAL ref XY, point a ,Picture 264

Solve[{f[mA,mB,mC,mD,mE,mF,mG,mH]=0,g[mI,mJ,mK,mL,mM,mN,mO,

mP]=0},{Xu,Yu}]

{{Xu=4.69282,Yu=3.58269}}

Determination in the REAL ref XY, point b ,Picture 264


mP]=0},{Xu,Yu}]

{{Xu=6.70197,Yu=3.96482}}

Determination in the REAL ref XY, point c ,Picture 264


mP]=0},{Xu,Yu}]

{{Xu=5.40452,Yu=3.08302}}

Determination in the REAL ref XY, real PELL ANGLE, Picture 264

{u}={u[XuA,YuA,XuB,YuB]}

{{2.00915,0.382124}}

{v}={v[XuB,YuB,XuC,YuC]}

{{1.29745,0.881796}}

"The angle Between the two lines is:"

(180/Pi)*VectorAngle[u,v] ""

The angle Between the two lines is:

23.4328

Clear [u,v]

In this case the Pictures Peel Angle taken from

AUTOCAD software is 28, and after eliminating the

distortion, the REAL peel Angle taken from the

MATHEMATICA algorithm, is 23.428. The results on

the several long term distortion corrections obtained

are disposed on Table 9.


10/10


September 2009


Table 9- PA results on distortion correction.

After analysing the error results on these 7 pictures,

the conclusion was that inside the 44-45-54-55

Square on Figure 20, the distortion was minimal, and

even so, the relative error on the distortion, was not

that accentuated. Consequently, the Peel Angle data

taken for the REFINED analysis can set values from

this Square because it is the less affected by distortion

Area. It is natural to understand this fact just by

realizing that the investigator had take pictures mainly

positioned over this area.

The Results on this REFINED analysis are posted on

Table 11, and Figure 20.

9.Results.

1st_220 MB 19 2_SCORE=6,776;

2nd

_220 MB 15 2_SCORE=6,743;

3rd_220 MB 11 2_SCORE=6,661

10. Conclusions

It is very difficult to study a wave behaviour due to its

chaotic blowing properties, but yet, it was possible,

after defining the surf parameters and applying this

theory to the S. Pedro ASR surf Model. The best

results were obtained in the lowest tide and smallerwaves, due to the minor boundary conditions

influence.

The perfect angle for the ASR physical model would

be between 35 to 40.

11. References

[1] Product Design and Development by Ulrich and Eppinger (2nd ed.,

McGraw-Hill, 2000)

[2] Edward M. Mikhail, James S. Bethel and J Chris McGlone..

Introduction to Modern Photogrammetry, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., New

York. Mar 2001.

[3] Mota-Oliveira, I. Hidrulica martima. Ed. AEIST, Instituto Superior

Tcnico, Lisboa. (1981).

[4] P. Bicudo, Estudo Prvio da implementao de um recife artificial

para a prtica de surf na praia de So Pedro do Estoril.

[5] P. Bicudo, A Fisica Do Surf, Lisboa, 28 de Outubro de 2003.

[6] P. Bicudo and A. Horta, Integrating Surfing in the Socio-economic

and Morphology and Coastal Dynamic Impacts of the Environmental

Evaluation of Coastal Projects, Journal of Coastal Research, Special

Issue 56, 2009.

Table 11- REFINED analysis Values for 220.

Figure 20- REFINED SCOREs for 220 and the 44-45-54-55Square.

Picture PA in Picture REAL PA PA

77 40,00 : 40,58 : 0,58 :

79 22,00 : 21,10 : 0,90 :

245 19,00 : 17,65 : 1,35 :

248 30,00 : 31,47 : 1,47 :

264 28,00 : 23,43 : 4,57 :481 15,00 : 16,15 : 1,15 :

512 25,00 : 28,58 : 3,58 :

NIVEL 1

Segurana

Qualidade

Aprendizagem

Qualidade

Profissional

Qualidade

nivel Mdio

Qua idade a

nivel de impacto

Visual

Qualidade

Final

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

N Mar condio PERIODO

HEIGHT

criada

pelo

batedor

HEIGHT

REAL

pelos

sensores HEIGHT

PA

medido

nas fotos

SCORE PA

terico

SCORE

de PA PA TUBO HEIGHT WALL Q&R BW CF START MOVE P TIDE SCORE

1 MB 11 1 1 1,03 0,03 40 8, 5 0, 669 7 ,83 1 6 7 ,3 3 7 ,5 9 ,5 1 0 7 5 9 7 8 4, 19 70 80 439 5 ,09 53 121 42 7 ,30 43 342 31 7, 24 45 11 044 7, 630 818 78 5 6, 294 411 33

2 MB 11 2 2 1,92 0,08 38 9 0, 6908 8 ,3092 8 9, 32 8 9, 5 10 6, 7 7 8, 5 7 8 3, 917395812 4, 60763213 8, 359077329 8, 2607226 8, 569858406 6,74293726

3 MB 11 3 3 3,42 0,42 46 6 0 ,4 68 4 6, 46 84 6 8 ,8 0 8 ,5 7 1 0 6 ,7 8 7 7 8 4, 23 88 84 982 4 ,94 22 820 64 7 ,31 37 412 82 7, 39 57 29 609 7, 627 826 02 1 6, 303 692 79

4 MB 11 4 4 3,88 0,12 62 2 1 ,3 62 8 3, 36 28 1 7 ,5 4 6 ,5 5 ,5 1 0 6 8, 3 6 7 8 5 ,3 38 73 425 6 ,23 64 587 71 4 ,96 41 450 62 5, 34 88 43 145 5, 550 043 22 8 5, 487 644 89

5 MB 15 1 1 0,99 0,01 31 8, 2 1 ,8 77 4 10 ,0 77 9 7 ,1 8 8 9 1 0 6 6 9 8 8 3, 95 09 67 978 4 ,37 30 636 43 8 , 38 88 710 38 8, 16 79 03 697 8, 258 618 02 2 6, 627 884 88

6 MB 15 2 2 2,76 0,76 39 7, 5 0 ,5 68 6 8, 06 86 8 9 ,6 5 8 8 ,5 1 0 6 ,3 7 8 8 8 3 ,92 31 087 4 ,43 20 360 92 8 ,33 18 447 74 8, 18 99 04 341 8, 430 447 76 5 6,66146833

7 MB 15 3 3 3,48 0,48 6 0, 5 0 ,4 70 06 78 0, 02 99 1 8 ,6 7 2 1 ,5 1 0 6 6 7 8 8 5, 40 18 30 913 6 ,03 16 462 01 3 ,95 47 975 97 4, 27 15 75 698 3, 982 995 73 8 4, 728 569 23

8 MB 19 1 1 1,24 0,24 32 8, 7 1 ,1 15 8 9 ,8 158 9 8 ,0 2 7 ,5 9 ,5 1 0 6 5 8 ,7 9 8 3, 83 07 43 482 4 ,23 13 104 38 8 ,54 10 539 07 8, 21 98 71 734 8, 420 854 59 7 6, 648 766 83

9 MB 19 2 2 2,86 0,86 46 8, 4 1 ,9 31 6 6, 46 84 8 ,5 9 ,5 9 8 9 1 0 6 7, 5 8 9 8 4, 19 20 41 432 4 ,53 45 348 85 8 , 28 97 174 93 8, 23 25 91 304 8, 630 088 01 5 6,77579463

10 MB 19 3 3 4,59 1,59 24 6 5 ,7 25 6 0 ,2 744 6 4 ,9 7 7 ,5 7 ,5 1 0 6 9, 5 7 ,8 9 8 5, 75 57 02 735 6, 134 684 63 5 ,63 16 602 14 6, 24 34 87 792 6, 752 711 55 5 6, 103 649 39

12 MM 11 2 2 1,74 0,26 33 2,8 6 ,7572 9,5572 1 9 ,08 1 ,5 3 10 7 7 ,2 9 ,4 7 7 4 ,679454607 6 ,131495824 5 ,562774438 5 ,555639307 4 ,101291549 5 ,20613115

13 MM 11 3 3 3,37 0,37 38 2, 6 5 ,7 09 2 8, 30 92 3 8 ,9 1 6 2 1 0 7 3 6 7 7 3, 76 02 73 422 4 ,46 66 662 07 6 , 05 67 915 11 5, 73 50 62 652 5, 269 630 04 6 5, 057 684 77

15 MM 15 1 15 1 0,97 0,03 35 0 9,049 9 ,04 9 0 7 ,1 0 0 0 ,5 1 0 0 1 0 10 8 7 6, 67 84 45 462 6, 284 924 25 4 ,23 77 454 42 4, 33 64 10 596 2, 653 314 8 4, 838 168 11

20 MM 19 2 2 2,8 0,8 36 2 6 ,7 99 4 8, 79 94 2 9 ,6 3 3 1 1 0 7 6 8 ,8 9 7 4, 30 44 55 841 5 ,37 81 254 95 5 ,86 82 172 78 5, 71 50 45 892 4, 342 854 60 1 5, 121 739 82

21 MM 19 3 3 3,43 0,43 24 5, 7 5 ,4 25 6 0, 27 44 4 8 ,7 8 5 ,5 5 ,5 1 0 7 5 6 9 7 4, 91 88 88 006 5 ,42 48 020 06 5, 445 085 99 5, 64 01 41 992 6, 070 200 00 8 5, 49 98 23 6

Direction 220REFINED ANALYSIS

MEIA

11

19

BAIXA

11

15

19

ALTURA

CLASSIFICAESNIVEL 3 NIVEL 2

M AIN PARAME TE RS S EC UN DARY PARAME TE RS

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

MB 11 1

MB 11 2

MB 11 3

MB 11 4

MB 15 1

MB 15 2

MB 15 3

MB 19 1

MB 19 2

MB 19 3

MM 11 2

MM 11 3

MM 15 1

MM 19 2

MM 19 3

6,294411329

6,742937255

6,303692791

5,487644891

6,627884876

6,661468335

4,72856923

6,648766832

6,775794626

6,103649385

5,206131145

5,057684768

4,83816811

5,121739821

5,4998236

REFINED SCORE FOR 220

Extended Abstract 48803

Documents

Transcript of Extended Abstract 48803