Exploring Ireland's Ancient MonumentsA few of Ireland's top cultural attractions

Rock of Cashel

by Suzanne Barrett

Come and explore the ancient monuments and attractions of Ireland.

Ireland is home to a vast array of historical and cultural attractions, which can easily be visited by holidaymakers arriving in the country. Car rental is an ideal way to explore these places of history and heritage, with many car hire companies available at airports and big cities, such as Dublin.

Visitors to Ireland should make sure they go to the megalithic passage tomb at Newgrange, in County Meath. Built around 3200 BC, this historical attraction dates back to before the construction of the pyramids in Egypt. It has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site, welcoming over 200,000 visitors every year.

The passage tomb is enclosed by a mound, which covers around an acre and is surrounded by 97 kerbstones that are decorated with megalithic art. The design of the passage and chamber means that they light up during the summer and winter solstice. However, experiencing this phenomenon could mean a long wait. For the 50 places that were available to book in 2003, 20,000 people applied.

C ounty Meath is also home to the Great Mound at Knowth and is similar to the passage tomb at Newgrange. This monument was built around 5000 years ago and has guided

tours running from the Bru na Boinne Visitor Centre, close to the village of Donore. These tours run between April and October.

Another place of interest is Kells, which is home to a round tower that was constructed to protect natives against the invading Vikings and remains today. The original monastery is also present and this is where the famous Book of Kells was created and housed over a thousand years ago. The book has since been moved to Trinity College Dublin, where thousands of people go to visit it every year.

The landscape of Ireland transformed considerably due to the arrival of the Normans in the 12th century, with castles frequently dotted around the country. These forts come in many different shapes and sizes from the grand Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, to the ruins of Kildownet Castle, which was once the Achill Island home to pirate queen Grace O’Malley.

Until next time.

Museum Exhibits: Four Million ArtifactsVisit the wide array of National Museum items on display at various locations

Photo by S. Barrett

by Suzanne Barrett

Dublin is the main location of a well-visited museum that displays up to four million historical artefacts, and Irish car hire users looking to view the wide collections may like to pay a visit to the National Museum of Ireland. However, the wide array of items exhibited by the attraction are spread among four different locations. Three are located within the city, while the fourth lies 240 kilometres from Dublin near Turlough Village, County Mayo. Visitors to the various complexes are greeted with a stunning array of

items that have been collected by the museum since it launched in 1877, when it took receipt of a collection of antique Irish coins and other historical artefacts.

Over time, the museum has expanded and now has its individual sites devoted to several areas, including archaeology, decorative arts and history, natural history and country life - the last of which can be viewed at the County Mayo building. There is much to interest holidaymakers keen to view exhibits that hail from Ireland's past and those from overseas. For a glimpse into the artistic crafts that have been created in the Emerald Isle, visitors can attend the Art and Industry building located in Dublin's Collins Barracks. Here, they can learn the interesting history of the site itself, which was home to troops for 300 years.

In addition, there is much to see, including exquisite glassworks and many other works of art that have been made from a variety of materials, such as metals, lace and ceramics. The building also has a section devoted to the transport methods used in the past, where visitors can view original 19th Century carriages.

Moving on from here, day trippers can step back into the mists of time when ancient man walked the earth. Located just a short trip from Collins Barracks, the museum's Archaeology building located in Kildare Street boasts over two million objects, with some hailing from the stone age. Gold jewellery and ornaments from Viking and Medieval periods are likely to amaze visitors, as are items created in Roman and Classical Egyptian times.

Due to reopen next year, the Natural History exhibit in the city is undergoing renovation. Once the works are completed visitors can marvel at the many animal specimens on show that offer insights into nature and the many animals that inhabit the plant. Drivers to County Mayo are free to stop off at the attraction's Country Life exhibit, which takes a detailed look at Irish culture and lifestyles from the Great Famine until the 1950s. Here visitors can learn and see items that have helped to shape the lives of Irish people. Exhibits feature information and items related to the country's religion, agricultural practices and sports and leisure pursuits.

Until next time.

Exploring Ireland's Ancient MonumentsA few of Ireland's top cultural attractions

Rock of Cashel

by Suzanne Barrett

Come and explore the ancient monuments and attractions of Ireland.

Ireland is home to a vast array of historical and cultural attractions, which can easily be visited by holidaymakers arriving in the country. Car rental is an ideal way to explore these places of history and heritage, with many car hire companies available at airports and big cities, such as Dublin.

Visitors to Ireland should make sure they go to the megalithic passage tomb at Newgrange, in County Meath. Built around 3200 BC, this historical attraction dates back to before the construction of the pyramids in Egypt. It has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site, welcoming over 200,000 visitors every year.

The passage tomb is enclosed by a mound, which covers around an acre and is surrounded by 97 kerbstones that are decorated with megalithic art. The design of the passage and chamber means that they light up during the summer and winter solstice. However, experiencing this phenomenon could mean a long wait. For the 50 places that were available to book in 2003, 20,000 people applied.

C ounty Meath is also home to the Great Mound at Knowth and is similar to the passage tomb at Newgrange. This monument was built around 5000 years ago and has guided tours running from the Bru na Boinne Visitor Centre, close to the village of Donore. These tours run between April and October.

Another place of interest is Kells, which is home to a round tower that was constructed to protect natives against the invading Vikings and remains today. The original monastery is

also present and this is where the famous Book of Kells was created and housed over a thousand years ago. The book has since been moved to Trinity College Dublin, where thousands of people go to visit it every year.

The landscape of Ireland transformed considerably due to the arrival of the Normans in the 12th century, with castles frequently dotted around the country. These forts come in many different shapes and sizes from the grand Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, to the ruins of Kildownet Castle, which was once the Achill Island home to pirate queen Grace O’Malley.

Until next time.

Travel to Galway for the Safety Direct Galway International Rally Weekend

Photo courtesy Jane Huffman

by Suzanne Barrett

Galway on the west coast of Ireland will be the venue for The Safety Direct Galway International Rally, which will be held from 5th February 2010 until the 7th February 2010.

The administrative headquarters will be based at the Clayton Hotel and visitors to the event will be assured a war welcome and exciting racing entertainment during the weekend. Visitors to Dublin can hire a car and travel west out of the city along the M4 in the direction of County Galway.

The village of Oranmore, where the main race section will take place is preparing itself for the onset of thousands of rally fans, all looking forward to three days of

fast-paced action. Due to severe flooding in south Galway, rally officials have had to revise to route and close roads as they prepare for the main event.

The ceremonial start of the weekend will begin on Friday night in the heart of Oranmore, with centralised service on Saturday and Sunday taking place in the Oran Precast grounds. The finish ramp ceremony will occur on the Sunday evening as the winning crews return to Oranmore village.

The top entrants for the opening round of the Irish Tarmac Championship include Tim McNulty and David Moynihan, on board their Subaru S12B, while Kevin Barrett and Sean Mullally, winners of the Galway Summer Rally, will be racing in their Subaru S11.

There will be large support for the local crew of JJ Fleming and David Hogan in another Subaru, with massive interest sure to follow the multi-award winning driver Craig Breen, who will be giving a debut on tarmac to the new Ford Fiesta S2000.

The new Citroen Racing challenge is proving to be a popular one with competitors, with this series, which consists entirely of Citreon C2 R2s, being headed by 2009 British C2 champion, Martin McCormack.

There is local interest in the Modified entries series, where Tom Flaherty and Patrick Curley are on board their Ford Escort Mk2, as are fellow local entrants Tommy Flanagan and Leanne Flanagan. The three day rallying event continues to be as popular with the competitors as it is with the spectators and is set to bring €3.6 million to the local economy.

Until next time.

Visiting Belfast

Queen's University - photo Belfast Visitor and Convention Bureau

by Suzanne Barrett

Belfast, a city of 300,000, is the capital of Northern Ireland and one of the great little cities of Europe. With an investment in peace well underway, this up-and-coming city takes its place on stage to offer tourists one of the warmest welcomes in Ireland. Here, the visitor can find new hotels, world-class entertainment venues, superb sightseeing and shopping, wonderful food, and a year-round program of events. Come join me in a virtual tour of this upbeat, regenerated gem of the North. Start here with a Street Map of the city.

A Brief History

John deCourcy, an Anglo-Norman, took Ulster from the Gaels in 1177 when Belfast was little more than a crossing point on the River Lagan. He built a strategic castle there, remembered now only by a city crossroad. In Elizabethan times, the Queen's favorite, Lord Essex, built a fort at Fortwilliam where he grossly mistreated the Irish. He failed to build a corporate city; that lot fell to Arthur Chichester, another man who ill-regarded the native Irish. Chichester built "a towne of good forme," which became his by its charter of incorporation, in 1613. However, another Chichester, Lord Belfast--another man of flawed character and nicknamed Gambling George--who made possible the modern city. George Augustus Chichester had huge extravagances and spent time in a debtors' prison before succeeding to the title of 2nd Marquis of Donegall and possession of the city, in 1799.

It was, however, architect Sir Charles Lanyon, whom speculators turned to and who is responsible for the shaping of the city. Lanyon-designed buildings, bridges, and viaducts abound. It is possible to build a walking tour around Lanyon-designed buildings.

Getting There

AirGetting to Belfast is easy. Belfast City Airport is just two miles from the city center with a rail link to Great Victoria Street Station. Belfast International Airport (Aldergrove) is a 40 minute drive via the M2 Motorway with regular Airbus service into the City Center. Dublin Airport is a two hour drive on the N1 with service to Belfast by express coach.

Sea and RailThere is sea crossing access from both Scotland and England; regular ferry and high-speed catamaran travel the routes in as little as ninety minutes. Northern Ireland Railways and Iarnrod Eireann Express Service provide eight rail departures from Dublin's Connolly Station every day except Sunday in just under two hours.

Getting Around

Belfast, like Dublin, is a walkable city, and many sights are best viewed on foot. Allow about an hour to traverse the heart of the city, but plan to take time to see the magnificent Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian architecture. Many areas are pedestrian-only. For those wanting to see more, there are taxis, chauffeured vehicles and bike rentals. Citybus offers a full program of tours departing from Castle Place throughout the summer. Most tours are £10 or less and include a souvenir booklet. TourUlster offers guided tours for £8 that cover the old and new in the city, Cathedral to University, Shipyard to Stormont, Republican and Loyalist landmarks and murals, and the best views. If you've more time, check out the Giant's Causeway and Antrim Coast Tour for £15. Click here for a list of tour guides.

Attractions

Belfast is imbued with a unique traditional charm and spirit of history that touches visitors and locals alike. Many of its attractions reflect this. Note: not all attractions are fully accessible for handicapped travelers. A phone call to determine accessibility and possible changing opening times is advised.

Belfast CastleJust off Antrim Road and located 3 miles north of the city center, Belfast Castle sits on the slopes of Cave Hill, overlooking Belfast Lough. Here visitors can sample excellent food, savor unsurpassed views and lovely gardens, or just soak up historic atmosphere. The Heritage Centre is a "don't miss" attraction. To get there take Citybus 45-51. Open daily. Admission is free. (Tel. 028 9027 6925)

Belfast City HallDonegall Square is the location for this Edwardian (1906) edifice of Portland stone , considered one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Europe. Home of the City Council, the interior boasts fantastic marble dome, grand staircase, and main entrance. A mural of Belfast's industrial heritage by local artist John Luke and the original Charter of Belfast (1613) are among its many attractions. The statue-filled grounds are a haven for the city's

sun-bathers in summertime. Guided tours Mon.-Sat. Admission is free. (Tel. 028 9027 0465)

Belfast ZooThe city's zoo occupies a 50-acre site on the lower slope of Cave Hill. Here over 100 species of rare and endangered animals are housed in modern enclosures which replicate their natural habitat. Restaurant, snacks, and a shop on premises. To get there take Citybus 9, 45-51. Open daily; admission charged. (Tel. 028 9077 6277)

Dundonald Old MillLocated at 231 Belfast Road, Quarry Corner, Dundonald, Ireland's biggest waterwheel (35 feet) attracts visitors to this restored 300-year-old sandstone mill. The mill houses a restaurant, gift shop, exotic plants centre, and a Taste of Ulster coffee shop where you can find Ireland's famous Banoffee pie. To get there take Ulsterbus 5, 7, 10. Open daily, admission free. (Tel. 028 9048 0117)

Grand Opera HouseLocated on Great Victoria Street, this late Victorian building (renovated 1980) is Northern Ireland's premier theatre for musicals, opera, ballet, concerts and pantomime. Performances Mon.-Sat. Admission by ticket. To get there take Centrelink bus. Ticket shop tel. 028 9024 1919.

Lagan LookoutThe Lagan lookout visitor centre offers several information exhibits about the regeneration of the Laganside area, among them the working Lagan Weir. Check out the detailing on the 30 foot ceramic salmon in the piazza. Located at Donegall Quay via Centrelink bus. (Tel. 028 9031 5444)

Linen Hall LibraryOne of the oldest surviving subscription libraries in the United Kingdom specializing in Irish politics and culture. Admission for library tours is free, however, membership is required for checking out materials. 17 Donegall Square North. (Tel. 028 9032 1707)

The OdysseyIreland's biggest visitor attraction and ultimate entertainment venue. Includes a 10,000-seat multifunctional indoor arena for concerts, shows, sporting events; IMAX cinema; 14-screen multiplex cinema; and W5 Science Centre plus pavilion, restaurants, bars, and shops. Located at 2 Queen's Quay via Centrelink bus. (Tel. 028 9045 1055)

Ulster MuseumPlan to spend a full day at the Ulster Museum with its wonderful art gallery. Rich displays of archaeology, ethnography, art, history, and natural sciences. Check out the Early Ireland Gallery while you're there. A good museum for children. Stranmillis Road location; take Citybus 69. Admission free. (Tel. 028 9038 3000)

Ulster Folk & Transport MuseumLocated 7 mi. east of Belfast near Holywood, the museum illustrates the way of life past and present of the people of Northern Ireland. A 1910 town, Titanic exhibition, "flight experience", country landscapes, and a folk village are there to enhance the visitor experience. Allow a full day and have lunch in the old railway station buffet. Admission charged. (Tel. 028 9042 8428)

Do you have a question about Ireland? The Ireland for Visitors Forum is available with many helpful members.

Until next time.

Ireland: Your Winter Destination

Cashel in January - photo by author

by Suzanne Barrett

Despite an aggressive economy, one of the fastest growing in the industrialized world--at least until a year ago--Ireland to many visitors seems pleasantly old-fashioned. We would not want to dispel that myth, even though Ireland seems to be racing toward the future with an emigration reversal and a greatly diminished unemployment. Ireland is really what the traveler chooses to make of it, and pleasantly rural vistas and a slow pace of life may still be found just outside the cities. Top draws are its spectacular scenery and warm, friendly people, neither attraction being dependent on a break in the fickle weather.

If you prefer fewer people and want to feel like you're the only tourist in town, a winter holiday fills the bill. The downside is that it's cool to cold, daylight hours are short at this time of year, and many attractions may not be open as they shut down or begin "winter hours" at the end of September. (Winter hours generally means they are open only on weekends.) Still, there are many places to visit that are open all year, and all the outdoor attractions, castles, cathedrals, high crosses, dolmens and stone circles are open to view anytime. Plus many hotels and self-catering cottages offer reduced winter rates, so combining that with your low-cost airfare can mean serious savings for the intrepid traveler.

I spent one December-January in County Waterford and found the weather far better than expected, the countryside verdantly green, the shopping superb, and the pubs warm and inviting. It was an excellent time to visit the castles at Cahir and Kilkenny, Ormonde House in Carrick-on-Suir, and the wondrous Rock of Cashel. The starkness of leafless trees against a winter sky painted a picture you'll long cherish. A pleasant surprise is that the grass stays green all year.

Packing for your winter holiday won't be much different than planning a spring visit: comfortable shoes for walking, jeans and slacks, a warm wool cardigan or pullover bought when you get there, an all-weather jacket, an umbrella, and layered clothing. Turtleneck tops to mix and match and wear under a cableknit pullover work well. A silk camisole under all is great for warding off the damp. Casual dress is acceptable everywhere in Ireland. Men may desire a jacket or blazer for dining in fancy hotels or restaurants, but ties are not generally required. Women may wear either slacks or skirts.

As expected, heating costs will be higher in winter. Most self-catering places charge extra for heat. Sometimes a meter is read upon arrival and departure, while other places may have a coin-operated system. Budget for an additional 10 to 15 pounds per week.

Christmas in Ireland often features festivals and outdoor entertainment. Horse races and hunting trips are plentiful, and the pubs with their warming open fires, lively craic and music are always welcome. In fact, winter visitors find their Irish hosts and acquaintances, having extra time on their hands, take added interest in their guests.

For visitor information prior to departure, contact the Irish Tourist Board in New York (800-223-6470) or in London (0171 493-3201). For visitor information for Northern Ireland, there's a Northern Ireland Tourist Board office in New York (800-326-0036) and in London (0171 355-5040). Available for the asking are maps and many different brochures advertising escorted tours, sights not to be missed, heritage centers, castle accommodations and more. One useful book to consider is the Bed and Breakfast Guide. A similar Hotels Guide is also available by request. The Tourist Board staff are knowledgeable and very helpful in answering all sorts of questions relating to Irish travel, transportation within the country, accommodations, festivals and more.

Once you arrive in Ireland, a visit to the local Tourist Board offices (Bord Failte) will display a number of useful booklets, heritage cards and other items at nominal cost.

Ireland's close proximity to the Gulf Stream assures that temperatures stay in the moderate range. Winter is mild except in the high mountain ranges, and snow may fall in areas but does not linger. The average temperature for Dec., Jan. and Feb. is 46 degrees F. (7C). While not bitter cold, the damp makes it seem colder. Warm sweaters, a good insulated jacket and layered clothing is recommended. Because rainfall averages nearly three inches per month from August through January, dropping only slightly during other months (heavier in the West), bringing rain gear is always advised. Listed below is a table with average temperatures for each month of the year for Dublin. Add approximately two degrees for Cork, and subtract two to four degrees for winter months in Belfast.

Jan 47F May 59F Sep 63F

  34F   43F   49F

Feb 47F Jun 65F Oct 58F

  36F   49F   43F

Mar 50F Jul 68F Nov 50F

  38F   52F   40F

Apr 56F Aug 67F Dec 47F

  40F   52F   38F

Swans at Cahir Castle, photo by author

Things to see and do:

Often, a guided coach tour is the preferred choice for spring and summer travel, but in winter nothing beats having your own transportation to get to those out of the way places not covered by local transport.

Some venues are open from March or April until the end of October, but many remain open, some having limited hours, being open only on weekdays or weekends. Many outdoor sights such as Wexford's John Fitzgerald Kennedy Arboretum are open year round. Listed below are some off-season opening and closing schedules.

The Lower Shannon

Ailwee Cave - open daily Bunrattty Castle - open 9:30am - 4:45pm daily Bunratty Folk Park - open 9:30am - 5:30 pm daily Cahir Castle - open daily Hunt Museum, Limerick - open Mon. - Sat. Rock of Cashel Visitors Centre - open 9:30am - 4:30pm daily, closed 12/24 -

12/28

A suggested tour: Begin at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, then tour Limerick, a bustling city centrally located in the Lower Shannon region whose skyline is dominated by mighty King John's Castle. Visit the Hunt Museum, once the old Custom House. Northwest in County Clare lies the Burren, a vast limestone plateau eroded by wind and rain into pavement slabs surrounded by deep fissures called grykes. An array of mountain plants grow out of these crevasses in spring and summer. The Visitors Centre will be closed in

winter, however, there is much to see, including the famous Poulnabrone dolmen in the heart of the limestone plateau. From here it's a short hop to the magnificent Cliffs of Moher, spectacular any time of year.

The Southeast

Powerscourt - open daily 9:30am until dusk Glendalough - ruins open daily, Visitor's Centre open daily except between 12/23

and 12/31 Avondale House - closed 12/23 - 12/28, otherwise house and grounds open daily Kilkenny Castle - closed 10 day during Christmas, other wise open Tues. - Sun. Rothe House, Kilkenny - open weekends, Sundays after 12:00 noon St. Canice's and Black Abbey, Kilkenny - open daily Waterford Crystal Factory - open Mon. - Fri. between Nov. and Mar.

Kilkenny is a delight any time of year, but it is especially nice in the winter. A walking tour takes you past such interesting places as the Shee Alms House, Rothe House, Kilkenny Castle and its wonderful Design Centre across the road. (Be sure to have lunch in their superb cafeteria.) St. Canice's Cathedral is open daily, and the grounds and round tower are most interesting.

In Wicklow, Powerscourt, with its walled garden, waterfall, Italian Garden and pebbled mosaic, is open daily. An interesting tour of the area would include Powerscourt, then Glendalough by way of the Old Military Road.

Cork and Kerry

Ardfert Cathedral, Co. Kerry - open daily Blarney Castle - open daily, closed 12/25 & 12/26 Cobh Heritage Centre - open daily Cork City Gaol - open daily Crawford Art Gallery - open Mon. - Sat. Jameson Heritage Centre - open daily Muckross House - open daily but closed 12/25 - 1/1 St. Anne's (Shandon) - open daily, closed 12/25 St. Finbarr's Cathedral - open daily

Suggested sights to see in Counties Cork and Kerry include a tour of the Dingle Peninsula where may be found many excellent places to eat and lodge. Muckross House, a lovely 19th century manor, overlooks the lakes of Killarney. Visitors can enjoy seeing its elegant rooms and the museum of Kerry life.

Many pretty villages await the traveler on the Ring of Kerry as well as interesting mountainous terrain over Moll's Gap. Kenmare is an excellent base for seeing Beara, Southwestern Ireland's third and less traveled peninsula.

Cork sights include Gougane Barra, Drombeg Stone Circle, near Glandore, Timoleague Abbey, and the tidy harbor town of Kinsale, known as the gourmet capital of Ireland. Purchase a Tourist Trail map at the tourist office at Emmet Place and treat yourself to a walking tour of this special town. Just outside Clonakilty is the birthplace of Irish Patriot Michael Collins. In the town itself is the West Cork Regional Museum with displays of Collins memorabilia and other items from the town's historical past.

Cork City offers many interesting places to see including Shandon, where for a few pence you may ring the steeple bell, the Crawford Gallery, Cork Gaol, Blackrock Castle, St. Finbarr's Cathedral, and the Butter Exchange. Make The Co-op at Sullivan's Quay your stop for lunch and you'll be pleasantly surprised. No visit to Cork would be complete without a stop at the Cobh Heritage Centre, home of the Queenstown Story. This, for many Irish emigrants, was the last sighting of their homeland. It was also a port of call for many luxury liners and was the last stop for the Titanic on its ill-fated voyage.

Whichever season you choose, you'll find splendid landscapes, cosy pubs and friendly people to welcome you.

Do you have a question about Ireland? The Ireland for Visitors Forum is available with many helpful members.

Until next time.

The Blackwater near Dromana Gate - photo by author

A Blackwater Ramble: Exploring Munster's Blackwater Valley

The Munster Blackwater at Youghal - photo by author

by Suzanne Barrett

I first saw the River Blackwater in the spring of 1989. Following a walking tour of the seaside town of Youghal (pronounced "Yawl"), I paused at the river's mouth, beguiled by the signposted "Blackwater Drive," but completely unprepared for the sheer beauty of the dusky-colored water, broad and swift-moving in its final journey to Youghal Bay and the sea. Turning left off the N25 by the bridge outside the town, you follow a scenic road that meanders peacefully along tree-lined banks. The view from any angle is spectacular and provides numerous photographic opportunities.

More than the verdant green of moss-covered trees and rippling water awaits. As you journey toward the village of Cappoquin, Molana Abbey's Norman arches rise up eerily

from the islet set in the Blackwater estuary. The mainly 13th century ruins include a church and cloisters, recalling the seclusion of the monastic settlements. Built on a the 6th century site of the Abbey of St. Molanfide, the abbey claims the remains of Raymond le Gros , one of the first of the invading Norman knights to come to Ireland, are buried nearby.

A few miles further is Templemichael, a disused cemetery with a ruined tower jutting skyward. I stopped to visit here on a grey New Year's Day in 1992 and found a sort of peace about the place with its tilting gravestones,

ivy-covered walls in ruin, one lone arch still intact. From the bumper-to-bumper parked Cars along the lane leading to the cemetery, I discovered Templemichael's popularity as a fishing spot.

Indeed, the Munster Blackwater (so-called to differentiate it from Leinster's Blackwater, which is a tributary of the River Boyne) is famous for the multitude of fish that are taken from its waters. It's one of the best salmon rivers in all of Europe. In season, Cappoquin hosts fisherman from the world over who hunger for the opportunity to catch Blackwater salmon.

About 10 kilometers from Cappoquin is Strancally Castle situated on the riverbank. George Richard Pain designed the castellated mansion in the 1820s, but in an earlier period the castle existed as a Desmond stronghold. Stories abound about the Earl who increased his landholdings by inviting wealthy landowners to dine with him, afterward murdering them. A bit of carelessness one evening left a guest wounded but not dead. He reported the incident, thus ending the greedy Earl's land acquisitions.

Occupying the opposite riverbank lies Dromana Castle, once the home of Katherine, wife of the Earl of Desmond. Legend claims she died at a great age (actual age figures vary) falling from a cherry tree. More impressive is the gate, a Hindu-Gothic construction originally built of papier mâché to greet the owner of Dromana Estate, Henry Villiers-Stuart and his wife, returning from their honeymoon in 1826. They became so enchanted with the gate that they had it constructed of more durable material. In 1971, the Waterford County Council opened a bridge across the Finisk River through the gateway. The estate, now under State ownership, was restored by the Irish Georgian Society in the 1960s.

Towering beeches line the N71 as you enter the market town of Cappoquin. In this pleasantly wooded setting, the Glenshelan River joins the Blackwater at the foot of the Knockmealdown Mountains, smooth and vividly green, even in the winter. The river turns west here and now follows a stretch of unparalleled beauty as you head toward Lismore and Fermoy.

Lismore Castle, tall with crennellated towers and battlements, is situated at a bend of the Blackwater. Although first built in 1135, most of the castle building dates from the nineteenth century. Its ancient history has expanded with finds of a fifteenth-century manuscript and a crozier. The Castle is private, but its grounds are open to the public from May until September, excluding Saturdays, and rooms may now be rented upon occasion.

Ballysaggartmore Towers is located on the right as you continue toward fermoy. There's a story behind this folly. Arthur Kiely's wife, jealous of her brother-in-law who owned

Strancally Castle, urged her husband to build a better castle. Work began on the long winding avenue, but when the main gateway had been completed, the Kielys' money ran out and the project was never finished. The 1820s gate which remains is of Gothic style. The insignificant house beyond was never finished.

We now arrive at Fermoy, a nineteenth-century planned town, designed by a Scotsman named John Anderson. He bought the lands on which the town is built, leased sites for military barracks to the government, widened the old bridge which dated back to the 1690s, and designed the layout of the streets and squares. Fermoy is a pleasant town with many fine country houses built nearby. At Fermoy, the angling is also excellent, and riverside walks may be enjoyed.

Three km west of Fermoy lies Cregg Castle, actually an eighteenth-century house with two storys over the basement. Nearby is the tower house with its mullioned windows which can be seen from the road. As we continues our westward course toward the river's origin, we pass Ballyhooly, situated on a lovely stretch of the water. The Roche Castle which was largely ruined in the 1641-1652 war was restored as a residence by Lady Listowel in 1862.

The road angles north at Castletownroche and away from the river, meeting it again at the village of Killavullen, associated with Edmund Burke (1729-1797), orator and statesman ,who spent his childhood here. Ballymacmoy House overlooking the bridge is the ancestral home of the Hennessy family of cognac fame. It's a short hop now to Mallow, a large town situated in a rich agricultural region. Thomas Davis who founded Young Ireland was born here. Fashionable in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as a spa town, it was also the scene of some noteriety caused by the Rakes of Mallow. Mallow Castle stands a ruin in the park surrounding the present house which is partly Elizabethan. It was burnt in 1689 by order of James II.

Though the Blackwater runs on past Millstreet in County Cork and nearly to Killarney, this is where our tour ends. I hope it has been an enjoyable journey.

Do you have a question about Ireland? The Ireland for Visitors Forum is available with many helpful members.

Until next time.

The Blackwater at Cappoquin - photo by author

An Irish Wedding

Photo courtesy Sheila McMahon

by Suzanne Barrett

Marry in May and Rue the Day…" If you are born Irish then you are automatically born superstitious. It seems the Irish have superstitions regarding every single facet of life so of course they would have certain "rules" regarding getting married.

So when my husband and I decided to get married (yes, that is how it happened, no bending down on one knee, no ring in my champagne glass at a nice restaurant…) in

Ireland, I started researching the various customs and traditions, legalities and particulars of getting married in Ireland.

The first thing necessity was to pick out a church over there and contact the parish priest at least three months in advance. It seems this is a law in Ireland now, I guess to stop fast, rushed marriages that will end up in divorce or separation in just a few short months. And, being Catholic, we then began pre-marriage counseling to clarify the fact that my future husband and I did indeed want to take this huge step in our lives. We had to dig out our baptismal, first communion, and confirmation records and have our local parish priest send all these documents to the priest in Ireland to do what ever legal things he needed to do.

Our next step in planning our Irish wedding was to reserve and purchase our plane tickets, buy our wedding clothing (my dress and his tux/suit) and get our wedding rings. These were pretty simple & straightforward things to handle, but I would like to say a word about our wedding bands. We decided to do something really special and buy Celtic wedding bands so that everyone who meets us would know our Celtic heritage. They made our day really special, and people frequently comment on them. They remind us often about our Irish wedding and are a very special touch that I would recommend to all.

So that handled on this side of the ocean, you must be sure the following things are reserved on the other side:

Photographer Menu and Location for the Reception Entertainment for Reception Cake Wedding Transportation/ Car Meeting with the Parish Priest to review your ceremony

I had an advantage because my mom and dad live in Ireland and were able to get most of these things lined up for me. So I arrived an extra few days before the wedding to tie up loose ends and make sure everything would go perfect. (Ed. note: if you do not possess Irish citizenship, it is necessary to fulfill a residency requirement.) And by the time my husband arrived, the night before the wedding, the only thing left to do was meet with the Parish priest to go over the ceremony.

We had been at the pub most of the afternoon meeting with old friends who of course had to buy us pint after pint to toast our future together. So, before we knew it, it was 9 pm and we had to go down to the parish rectory to rehearse. Both of us were slightly nervous because of the fact that we were fairly smashed, but the first words out of The Father's mouth were "Welcome home Michael, will ye share a whiskey with me?" Needless to say, the ice was broken and we proceeded on merrily. And after that we headed back to the pub, me for my "Hen Party" and my future husband for his. We had a long, fun night and in the wee hours, stumbled home.

The next morning, of course I awoke "bright eyed and bushy tailed" and ready for a beautiful day. The photographer arrived about an hour before the mass and we commenced to take picture after picture after picture.

My father and I rode to the church in a '47 Rolls-Bentley, our quaint chaffeur-driven wedding car. The priest was shocked and I believe a little peeved that we arrived when we did. It seems that the bride is always supposed to be late!

We proceeded on with the ceremony and it went much as an American ceremony would, with just a few unique parts. When we exchanged vows and rings, my husband took my left hand, touched my thumb with the ring and said, "In the name of the Father". Then he touched my index finger next and said, "In the name of the Son." Then he touched my middle finger and said, "And the Holy Spirit" and at "Amen" he placed the ring on my ring finger. I did the same procedure to him.

Then the priest handed my husband an ancient polished coin. He then handed it to me and said these words, "I give you this gold and silver, tokens of all I possess." It was a beautiful touch that I had never before heard.

After the ceremony, we stepped outside the church for more pictures and merriment. Our guests threw rice with sweet abandon, and we really whooped it up! Then my husband and I climbed in the wedding car and proceeded to the reception, a nice twenty-mile drive away through the gorgeous countryside of Westmeath. As we passed through each town people waved and honked at us to help celebrate our happy day.

At the reception of course we had MORE pictures and then a really nice meal. Then the real fun began with our entertainment, a one-man band who played lots of traditional Irish music. I think my favorite part was when each member of my family got up, one at a time, gave us a toast and then either sang a special song or recited a special poem. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day!

My Irish wedding was so enjoyable and special. I went back to my Irish roots and celebrated my heritage. If you have the chance, do it! You will truly cherish it "all the days of your lives…"

Until next time.

The church where Sheila was married

All photos by Sheila McMahon

The Magic of Mayo

Near Cong, Co. Mayo - photo courtesy Bord Fáilte

by Suzanne Barrett

What is it about Mayo that brings people back time after time? Curious, I had to see for myself, and thus began my own love affair with this county of mountains (one of them holy), rolling plains, windswept coastline, and a shrine. The Mayo coastline from Killary Harbor to Killala Bay presents a wonderful succession of views from sandy beaches to cliffs with rugged headlands. Prominent in the area is the 2,500 foot Croagh Patrick,

which rises from the shore of Clew Bay. Purported to be where St. Patrick spent forty days of prayer and fasting in 441 A.D., it is a place of pilgrimage for thousands on the last Sunday in July. A climb to the summit affords one of the finest panoramic views in Ireland. Achill Island, Clew Bay, central Mayo and even Connemara can be seen on a clear day.

Rounding the head of the fiord-like Killary Harbor is an area of outstanding beauty. The alternate road runs from Delphi to Louisburgh between the Sheffry Hills and the Mweelrea Mountains. Above Delphi on the left, Doo Lough appears as a long sheet of water with mountains on both sides. Louisburgh, a fishing village, is situated somewhat inland from the Bay. Fine sandy beaches are located at Cloughmoyle and Old Head.

From the mouth of Clew Bay, excursions to Clare Island can be made. Approximately 500 people live on the island, once the home of Gráinne Ní Mháille (Grace O'Malley), sea queen of the west. Her body lies in the ancient island abbey, and her massive square castle has served as a coast guard station and a police barracks. Grace was an extraordinary personality, and the subject of several novels.

Westport lies in an arm of Clew Bay and is a pleasant town with trees and groves surrounding it. It is unique in that it was designed to the plan of well-known architect William Wyatt. Lime trees line the Mall on both sides of the Carrowbeg River and it is one of the country's most charming thoroughfares. Westport House, a Georgian mansion designed by Richard Castle, is the home of the Marquess of Sligo. It has been in the family for over 300 years. Many fine English and Irish pictures grace its walls, plus there are exhibits of historical interest. The house is open to the public between April and September.

Castlebar is the county town of Mayo. It received its charter from James I in 1613. Perhaps it is better remembered historically for the routing General Lake received here by

General Humbert in the 1798 Rebellion. John Moore, who was President of the Provisional Republic of Connacht in 1798, is buried in a plot beside the memorial on the Mall. Today, Castlebar, as well as Westport, are vibrant towns for visitors. Some of the best music sessions in Ireland originate in Westport pubs.

To the west, the Nephin Mountain Range looks down on the road from Newport to the l-shaped Achill Island. Achill is the largest of Ireland's islands and lies in a Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area. The villages of Dooega, Dooagh, Keel, and Dugart

dot the scenic coastline. Keel is a charming resort town with one of the finest strands in Ireland. At Dookinella a fine memorial marks the birthplace of Fr. Manus Sweeney, the patriot priest, who was hanged at Newport in 1799 for participating in the 1798 Rebellion.

Continuing north to Bangor, then northwest to Belmullet, the visitor sees a handful of gently sloping fields across a sheltered inlet of Broadhaven Bay. This is deceiving, however, because a few miles further on one realizes that these fields are reclaimed bog land of rushes and ragwort and mosses of soft green. Wiry grass and purple heather crowd the sloping brow of Erris Head, the northernmost point on the Mullet Peninsula. It is a wild and windy place where sheep huddle behind turf banks to keep warm and dry. Binghamstown, a few miles south, was an up-and-coming town in the nineteenth century. It declined as people shifted their commerce to the better situated Belmullet. There are several points of interest for the visitor. Sea angling is popular, the waters clean and rich. A ruined workhouse gives testament to the hardship this remote area faced during the famine years. Cross Abbey, perched atop a sandy hillock, is where Brendan the Navigator founded his beehive settlement in the sixth century. St. Dairbhile's Church on the southern tip of the peninsula, not far from Blacksod is an interesting ruin. Climbing through the window seven times protects one from drowning goes one superstition.

Here one understands the might of the Atlantic storms. The western coastline of the thirteen mile trip from Belmullet to Blacksod Point is completely denuded of vegetation, while the eastern shore is not.

The north coast of Mayo, accessible by a trunk road running through Killala, has some of the most interesting and grand cliffs in Ireland, well worth the side trip. Traveling east, we come again to Bangor, then Crossmolina near the shores of Lough Conn. The River Deel is now on the right hand side with the 2,646 foot high Mount Nephin towering on the left. A trunk road goes from Crossmolina to Castlebar along the western bank of Lough Conn. Errew Abbey, now only meagre ruins, is located on a jutting peninsula. Lough Conn is joined to the smaller Lough Cullen by a single-arched bridge. Both bodies of water hold large trout.

Ballina, eight miles east of Crossmolina on the River Moy, is the largest town in Mayo and an excellent angling center. The Moy is noted for its salmon and trout. A handsome, modern Catholic cathedral stands in the town; nearby are the remains of an Augustinian friary (A.D. 1427).

Foxford, in East Mayo is a sizable town with a woolen industry. The Foxford Woolen Mills Visitor Centre provide a unique experience to learn the story of a Sister of Charity who overcame enormous odds to establish a thriving industry in the town in 1892. A tour through the woolen mills affords visitors an opportunity to see skilled craftsmen producing the famous Foxford blankets, rugs, and tweeds. There is also a restaurant, Mill Shop, Art Gallery, and Exhibition Centre. They are open Mon.-Sat. 10am to 6pm and Sun. 2-6pm with tours running approximately every twenty minutes.

South of Castlebar is Claremorris, the railway junction for Knock. In 1879, fifteen people claimed to have seen the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, and Saint John the Evangelist by the south gable of Knock church, with a lamb and an altar surmounted by a cross. A group of pilgrims from Limerick visited three years later, and droves of people have been coming ever since. Many sick and aged have come, hoping for a cure. Bord Fá writes that apparitions are still the subject of eccliastical controversy. Even so, Knock has been popular enough to warrant its own airport.

Ballinrobe is a fine town situated on the Robe River near the eastern shore of Lough Mask. It is also an angling center, but its real value is its proximity to several sights of interest. Six miles north on the Ballinrobe-Westport road, the road forks with the main road going toward Castlebar. Three and one-half miles along this road lies Ballintubber Abbey. A cruciform church with nave, transepts, and choir, along with many fine windows, and a lofty gable provide much for the visitor. Nearby lies the monastic buildings with an altar tomb and fine row of figures on the pediment. The abbey was founded in 1216 by Cathal O'Connor, king of Connacht. Despite being wrecked by the Cromwellians, it is notable that Ballintubber has existed as a place of worship to the present day.

A return journey along the eastern shore of Lough Carra brings one to Carrownacon and the ruined Moore Hall, burned to a shell in 1923. The hall is the birthplace of famous novelist George Moore. His ashes are enclosed in an urn and buried on Castle Island in the lake.

The most well-known Mayo town owes its fame to Hollywood. In 1951 John Ford made a film in Cong about a returned Yank and a farmer's fiery daughter starring John Wayne and Dublin's Maureen O'Hara. The Quiet Man endures in this part of the country where visitors can see the recreated 'Quiet Man' cottage at Maam Cross and the medieval cross in Cong which served as a real prop where many of the scenes were shot.

Cong's Augustinian Abbey was founded in 1128. Here Roderick O'Connor, the last high king of Ireland died in 1198, having spent the final fifteen years of his life in monastic seclusion. Visitors will enjoy the atmosphere of the ruins, especially the Monk's Fishing-House (seen in The Quiet Man). The famous processional Cross of Cong, now in Dublin's National Museum, was made for the Cathedral of Tuam by order of Turlough O'Connor. Its function was to enshrine a portion of the True Cross. Turlough's son, Roderick, brought the masterpiece of Irish art to Cong where it was found in a chest in the early nineteenth century.

Also in the vicinity of Cong is Ashford Castle, a luxury hotel set deep in the heartland of Mayo and with a nearly eight hundred year history. Originally built by the de Burgos on the site of a sixth-century monastery, Ashford has seen many changes over the years.

Plan a visit to this magnificent 26,000 acre estate with a world class golf course and stately gardens.

Between Cong and The Neale lies the Plain of Southern Moytura, a prehistoric battlefield where the Tuatha Dé Danann inflicted the first great defeat on the Firbolgs.

Mayo has more magic--I've but touched on the highlights. I hope they inspire you to find a little magic of your own.

Do you have a question about Ireland? The Ireland for Visitors Forum is available with many helpful members.

Until next time.

Ashford Castle, Co. Mayo

'Quiet Man' cottage - photo by author; other photos courtesy Bord Fáilte