In Dominica this year, I visited one of themany volcanic pools in the area and alsopurchased a tourist sample of the mudextracted out of this hot, splutteringferment. Local people have a superbknowledge of their local flora and ethno-pharmaceutical remedies, but they alsoplaced great store by the muds and siltsthat are prevalent in the area.

Examination of the sample showed that there was eagerness to show that thesulphur mud was anti-ageing, and goodfor combating arthritis, pimples, rashes and many kinds of skin disorders. Althoughthere is uncertainty about the claim topreserve a youthful skin, the claim that it would be good for pimples is wellsubstantiated from a search of theliterature, since sulphur has long beenknown as good for acneic skin. Thepresence of mineral in the mud would alsobe beneficial in any preparation seeking to alleviate distressing problematic skinconditions.

Sulphurous mudsIn the 5th Century BC the beneficialproperties of the sulphurous springs werealready well-known because they wereused to treat muscle and articular diseasessuch as arthritis and also used to improveskin complaints. This use continuedthrough into Roman times and became apart of the hot springs and bathing culture.

Sadly, the sulphur paste sold by theside of the sulphur pool was not availablein large quantities commercially and so I searched literature for a possiblealternative and discovered that a sourcewas available from Provital called ThermalAlluvium with Sulphur.

It was explained that the mud hadsettled after long periods of time, insediments near thermal springs or at thebottom of the sea, and was essentiallycomposed of clay and small quantities ofother compounds. These compounds areresponsible for the different characteristicsof the mud, such as colour, odour andother special properties, depending onits place of origin.

Muds are formed because of the

erosion of several rocks, especially feldspar and mica. Once transformed intopowdered materials, they are easily carriedaway by water flows and deposited insediments at the river sides or at thebottom of seas and lakes.

The composition and morphology ofthese muds are very different. They mainlycontain aluminium, iron and magnesiumhydrated silicates (crystalline andamorphous forms) which includes nacrite, of thermal formation, up tomontmorillonite, as well as the stablekaolinite. In some cases these depositscontain hydrated alumina and ferric oxide.The size and distribution of the particles,which have a colloidal size and a plain orflattened shape, give them a charateristicslip, whereas the very fine quartz sand,feldspar, mica, powdered opal, fossilfragments, high density minerals such as sulphates and carbonates give them a certain degree of abrasiveness.

The thermal alluvium is picked up insediments close to a sulphurous thermalspring, when the most granulated hardparticles are eliminated. It containsapproximately 7% of elemental sulphur.

The main properties of the mud are: w Absorbing power: it has a very high

adsorption and absorption capacity,because of its small colloidal particlesize and so has a large surface area,

which gives it excellent qualities as ananti-toxic and decongestive. Due to its strong absorbing power, mud is of great use to treat greasy acne-proneskin. The mud exerts a proven action on sores, eczema, skin burns and otherdermatological conditions, promotingrapid wound healing.

w Cicatrising action: it has a highaluminium silicate content and so helps to cicatrise wounds, eczema andother disturbances of the skin veryquickly. Improved speed of healingleads to a reduction in possible scarringand blemishes. The mud is a naturalbio-catalyst, especially efficient onconnective tissue, because of its highsilicon content. Silicon is essential forthe correct formation of collagen fibres. In this context, oligoelementsalso play a relevant role.

w Stimulating capacity: mud absorbsseveral radiations (solar, magnetism,radioactivity, etc). It releases againthese radiations but dosified and at a lower frequency, resulting in a veryconcrete potential of organicstimulation, which influences the bodyvigour and metabolism, invigorating thecell reconstruction and accelerating all the organic processes.

w Antimicrobial effect: according to abrochure this highly powerful absorption

March 2008 PERSONAL CARE 27

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor MINERALS

Exciting minerals – an update

Sulphurous mud pool.

and/or therapeutic preparations, due to its thermoactive, remineralising andexchanging salts properties.

There are a number of marine mudswhich would happily fit into this category.

Dead Sea mudAlban Muller has Dead Sea muds andsalts which are of great potential in avariety of personal care applications.

The thermal baths of the Dead Sea are contemporary to Great King Solomon.Their reputation for efficacy spread all overthe antique world (Cleopatra imported saltsfrom the Dead Sea for her beauty care).

The Dead Sea is situated 400 metresbelow sea level. As water of the rivers thatflows in cannot flow out, it concentrates,evaporates, then progressively depositstreasures eroded from the Judean Mounts(mineral salts, organic sediments). Thesalinity of the Dead Sea is thus 10 timeshigher than that of any other sea.Nowadays, many countries encouragecitizens suffering from psoriasis or arthritisto make a stay at the thermal baths of theDead Sea as the mud and salts bring relieffrom these distressing conditions. The saltsand mud are also quite famous for theirremineralising and purifying properties and are much sought after.

The mud is highly recommended incase of seborrhoeic skin or skin sufferingfrom acne, and Dead Sea mud is veryefficient for the care of skin, to “deepcleanse”, and to relieve painful joints. Theblack mud, rich in minerals, is composedof layers of clay sediments constituted asmillennia went by. The concentration inminerals is high. The mud contains naturalexfoliating agents with an action thatpurifies and tones the skin. As a result the skin is more supple and smoother.

In a mask the mud can be used tobalance and smooth the skin. The skin iscleaned in depth and, as a result, ends upnourished and better hydrated. In scrubs it provides a light lifting to leave the skinfresh and revitalised. On the hair, in amask or in a shampoo, it is used to cleanthe hair, to remove an excess of sebum,

and to rebalance the scalp. In productsdesigned for body care it is said to favourcellular exchanges and slimming and helpsto improve the aspect of the skin and keepit elastic. The figure becomes thinner, theskin breathes. It is ideal for anti-stresscures or after birth. Around the joints, it relieves pains.

The salts of the Dead Sea bring acalming and relaxing effect.

In a bath they enable the body to feelwell and provide an ideal solution for bodytiredness, muscular or nervous tension. In cosmetics, the salts allow purifying,cleansing and remineralising of the skin.Their beneficial aspect is furthermoreimproved when associated with warmapplications of Dead Sea mud.

Rassoul mudRassoul or Ghassoul was created at thepiedmont of the Atlas mountains inMorocco, known as “the country where the sun sets”. It was formed in depositsduring the Jurassic period in the Mesozoicera, 208 to 144 million years ago. Thisdetoxifying clay is mined from 2.5 mileswithin the Atlas Mountains. Its purity isrenowned throughout history going back as far as 2500 BC. Rassoul containslithium as well as magnesium and othertrace elements, such as iron, potassium,copper and zinc. The mud has been usedsince the 12th Century; Moroccans usedRassoul as a daily therapeutic source forskin cleansing and purification, dermatitis,sensitivities, smoothing rough or scaly skin,seborrhoeic skin and scalp and hairtreatments. The underground mining ofRassoul originally commenced with ancientNorth African civilisations.

The Societé du Ghassoul et de sesDérivés (available through Unifect) exploitthe only known deposits of Ghassoul clayin the world, located 200 km from Fez inMorocco.

Ghassoul has been used for more than12 centuries by people from all NorthAfrican and Middle-Eastern countries, andtakes its name from the Arabic word forwashing – “Rassala”.

The material has been awarded Ecocertorganic certification for the cosmeticssector. [www.ghassoul.org]

Minerals are growing in popularity and a number of new raw materials are beingpresented.

Bamboo silicaThis is one of the natural sources of plantsilica.

Lessonia has Bamboo 200, 500, 1000and Bamboo 100. Bamboo Exfoliator is asolidified organic silica extracted from thenodes of specific bamboo stems, calledtabasheer in the traditional Indian

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inactivates the microorganism action.This action seems to be strengthenedby a certain natural antibiotic capacityof mud.

w The occlusion that results of mudapplication on the skin raises skintemperature and promotesmicrocirculation in the conjunctivetissue, all of which produce a certaindegree of skin moisturisation.

These effects would confirm the claimsmade on the small purchased sample in Dominica.

ClaysBeraca has a similar product calledAmazonian White Clay. This clay is anoleaginous soil that has a great number of shades, depending on the site of origin.It is a natural product, very rich in mineralsalts that take the toxins to the skinsurface and help remove them. It is rich in iron, aluminium, potassium, calcium,boron and sulphur. The clay was quitepopular natural therapy, well-known locallyfor its beneficial effects in headache andstress illnesses. The Brazilian Indians usedgeotherapy often, as the clay may protectthem against skin problems and alsoprotect them from biting insects. The clay is full of nutrients that combat freeradicals and is believed to channel positive energy.

This product is said to be effectivewhen it is sun dried to energise it. TheAmazonian White Clay can be applied in natural treatments for relaxation, skinregeneration, hydration and cleansing.

Silts Active Concepts has a Sea Silt which formsin calm estuaries and coastal regions withlow tides. Often rich in minerals, clay, algaeand other nutrients, Sea Silt is said to bothfortify and rejuvenate the skin. During themanufacturing process, Sea Silt is carefullyextracted with water and butylene glycol to retain all of its nutritive benefits. ABSSea Silt Extract is a healthy addition tocosmetic and personal care products.

Gaiamare (through Gattefossé) has aFossil Mud which is silt 40%, magnesiumaluminium silicate 35% and aqua 25%.The product is extracted by washing to amore than 700 metres depth zone ofCatalonia where the earth presents a great concentration in salts and mineralsthat confer to these products and theirderivates wide properties. It is a naturalsaline mud that contains an elevatedportion of halite (NaCl), calcite (CaCO3),anhydrite (CaSO4), quartz (SiO2) andphilosilicateated fractions of muscovite andrests of nontronite. It is combined with redclay and is used as a basis for cosmetic Bamboo.

medicine. Bamboo 100 is especially ideal for microdermabrasion since itimproves skin refinement and complexionclearness.

A further exfoliator based on bamboosilica is available from Libiol. The BambooExfoliant is obtained from the bambootabasheer stems collected in the form ofan exudate which crystallises at ambienttemperature. The product is presented inthe form of a very hard white mass. Aftercrushing, obtained is a crystalline powdervery rich in mineral salt. It is a source ofsilica (SiO2) since this particular variety ofBamboo contains nearly 70% of it amongthe other minerals found. The Bambooexfoliant is particularly interesting for themanufacture of exfoliating creams or gel to remove the dead cells and debris fromthe skin surface.

Bamboosilk is available fromNaturactiva. Certain female bambooscontain a white secretion in their jointscalled tabasheer. It consists almost of pure hydrated silica and has been used inIndian phytotherapy for its remineralisingproperties in treatment of arthritis,osteoporosis and for strengthening hairand nails. Eastern medicinal traditiondescribes tabasheer as alkaline, cold innature and sweet in taste. It is consideredas aphrodisiac and tonic in China where it is called tian zhu huang. Bamboosilkimparts to powder formulations a variety of properties that include a high sebumabsorption capacity, a mattifying aspectand a silky smooth feel. It also helps toimprove the ease of application and thespreadability for body lotions, absorbexcessive perspiration, reduce lipstickexudation, add volume in mascaras andimprove nail polish wear.

Lava silicaRhyolite (Si/Al) 75 & 200 (Lessonia):extremely abrasive, rhyolite is a low densitylava rich in silica (71%), formed in Lipariislands volcanoes’ magma. Processed into a very fine powder, Rhyolite exfoliatorallows a tonic exfoliation. Such a mineralis ideal to regenerate skin and to smooththe epidermis without affecting thehydrolipidic surface.

Marine sources of mineralsLithothamnium (Ca/Mg) (Lessonia):lithothamnium is a red coral plant highlyrich in calcium (30-35%) and magnesium.Its marine origin makes it a revitalisingmineral treasure, gathering more than 32 trace elements in a readily availableform. Its hardness also ensures energeticexfoliations.

Spring Sea Water (from Soliance) ispumped from a natural reservoir more than22 m in depth which is constantly supplied

with sea water. It is naturally rich inminerals and trace elements because ofits contact with the sand and the networkof granitic faults of its original environment.The marine station is located in NorthBrittany (France). It optimises waterexchanges and improves the cohesionbetween the dermis and the epidermis byincreasing hemidesmosomes number andmaintains endogenous skin hydration bystimulation of epidermal lipids synthesis.

A huge range of marine derivatives anda similar spring water are available fromCodif.

Precious stonesAmethystSoliance supplies an amethyst in itsLithocosmetic range of materials. Theamethyst is approved by Ecocert forecological and organic cosmetics.

Purple has long been considered a royal colour. It is not surprising, therefore,that amethyst has been so much indemand during history. Amethyst is avariety of quartz. This popular gemstonecan occur in the form of long prismaticcrystals that have a six-sided pyramid ateither end or of crystalline crusts that onlyshow the pointed terminations. Amethyst is mined in Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia andArgentina as well as in Namibia, Zambiaand other African countries.

The name amethyst is derived from the Greek “a” (not) “methuskein” (tointoxicate), expressing the old belief thatthe stone protected its owner fromdrunkenness. Indeed, it was held that wine drunk out of a cup of amethyst wouldnot intoxicate. The stone still symbolisessobriety.

Metaphysical characteristics: amethysthas relaxing effects. It brings internalpeace, dissipates evil thoughts andquickens the intelligence. Amethyst drives away anger, fear and anxiety. Itworks against toothache and headache. It fights against blood impurities, venerealdesease and colour blindness. Amethystbalances the energies of the body:physical, mental and emotional.

CitrineCitrina is supplied by Soliance and isdescribed as a relaxing gemstone cosmeticpowder. Citrine is a yellow member of the quartz mineral group. It is one of themost affordable gemstones, thanks to its durability and availability. It is oftenconfused with the costly yellow-orangetopaz gemstone.

Metaphysical characteristics: citrineacts against digestion problems and eyedisease. Citrine is also called the “stone of the mind” because it is believed toincrease psychic power. It increases self-esteem, protects from negative energy,opens the mind and clarifies thoughts.Citrine also has the power to calm andsooth depression, to give joy and love.

Cosmetic characteristics: citrina is acitrine micronised powder and improvesthe complexion by fighting against theeffects of stress. Citrina also stimulatesthe immune system, thus protectingsensitive skin.

DiamondActive Concepts supplies a diamondmaterial. For centuries diamonds havebeen used as alternative medicines. It has been said that diamonds are capableof increasing energy and brain activitywhile fighting glaucoma. Although theseclaims have never been scientificallyvalidated, diamonds have come tosymbolise generosity, prosperity and love.Diamonds are the strongest mineral onearth, and are often used not only injewellery, but also for industrial equipmentto cut hard surfaces.

The popularity of diamonds is mostlikely attributed to their beauty. Whenpolished and cut, the sparkle and shimmerof a diamond may seem rather hypnotic to some. Although most of us are familiarwith the “4 Cs” – cut, colour, clarity andcarat – many of us often confuse carat asbeing a measurement of size when it isactually a measurement of weight. Theterm carat is derived from the Greek wordkeration which is the fruit of a carob.Carob seeds were noted to have uniformweight and were originally used as weightson precision scales. Our confusion with the word carat does, however, seemlogical, as larger diamonds tend to weighmore than smaller diamonds. Many of usmay want a large diamond due to thevalue – but from an aesthetic sense, theymay be more appealing due to the greaterdistance the light must travel. This resultsin an increased prism effect, which weregister as a greater sparkle and shimmerthan we see in a smaller diamonds.

But why would we ever think to usediamonds in cosmetics? Our skin is a living organ that is constantly changing.

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Amethyst.

It consists of the dermis and theepidermis. The epidermis is comprised of several layers, with the outermost layer of the epidermis consisting of dead cells.These cells tend to build up over time andwithout proper exfoliation our skin appearsdull and dry. By regularly exfoliating we can keep our skin looking smooth andrevitalised while imparting evenness to our skin tone.

AC Diamond Dust (though IMCD in UK)consists of diamonds that are ground intoa fine powder for use as an exfoliant inpersonal care and cosmetic products. Thiscan be used not only in foot and elbowexfoliants but also in products designatedfor exfoliating more sensitive areas suchthe face, neck, shoulders and even lips.

Diamond is also supplied by Solianceand is described as the purity gemstonecosmetic powder.

Metaphysical characteristics: diamondsare the traditional emblem of fearlessness,virtue, power and wealth. Today, diamondssymbolise eternity and are often seen on engagement rings. Diamond is a greatassistance for all brain diseases. It is also beneficial in the stomach area andcan strengthen the owner’s memory. Thewearer of diamond is protected from thebad influence of evil spirits and snakebites.Diamond is an antidote to poison and is capable of detecting it.

Cosmetic characteristics: diamond is amicronised powder and this stone showshealing properties and stimulates immunedefences. Diamond can be useful fortreating bone diseases.

EmeraldActive Concepts also supplies an emerald.Green is the colour of love, money andenvy. It is also one of the most soughtafter colours in gemstones. Emerald is the green variety of the mineral beryl(Be3Al2(Si03)6) and its green to bluishcolour is attributed to trace amounts ofchromium and iron present. It isconsidered to be the most valuable of allthe gemstones due to its rarity. Emeraldsare typically formed under hydrothermalreactions and tend to have slight waterinclusions. Emeralds also have a hardnessof 7.5 on the Mohs scale where 10 is considered to be the highest.

Regarded as the traditional birthstonefor May, the emerald also represents theastrological signs of Cancer and Taurus. It is believed by many that emeralds havethe power to ward off evil spirits, cureepilepsy and dysentery while also aidingpoor eyesight. Typically regarded as asymbol of pride, emeralds are also thetraditional gifts given for the 20th, 35th

and 55th wedding anniversaries in severaldifferent cultures. Emerald is commonly

recommended in chakra and crystaltherapies. Emeralds are attributed withimproving the wearer’s physical, emotionaland mental balance. Emeralds are alsoconsidered to be a source of inspiration,while improving patience and providinghealing properties.

The Incas and Aztecs of South Americarevered the gemstone as holy. Emeraldswere also a favourite of ancient Egyptianpharaohs between 3000 and 1500 BC.Not surprisingly, the emerald mines werereferred to then as “Cleopatra’s Mines”.The Vedas, holy scriptures written in Indiamany centuries ago, mention thegemstones as having healing properties,while enhancing wellbeing and ensuringgood luck. Not surprisingly, artifacts withemeralds are highly sought after andprominently displayed in museums andprivate collections. An example is the cupof Emperor Jehangir (made entirely ofemerald) which has been displayed at theNew York Museum of Natural History nextto the Patriciaç, a Colombian emeraldweighing 632 carats.

When added to cosmetic and personalcare products, AC Powdered Emerald mayprovide mystical properties that have beenassociated with the gem. Commonly usedfor healing, and as an “energy medicinetool”, gemstone products are also popularin holistic healing treatments such aschakra and crystal therapies.

Garnet Garnet (Si/Fe) 100, 200 and 300 (Lessonia).A semi-precious stone, the AlmanditeGarnet used in Garnet Exfoliator is knownfor natural hardness and abrasivecharacteristics. It is especially rich in iron(30%), essential for the body’s wellbeing.Associated with silica and aluminium,these minerals act in synergy for apowerful regenerating and energisingexperience.

JadeActive Concepts supplies jade which hasbeen known to exhibit various therapeuticproperties, both for the body and themind. Many ancient cultures, such as the

Mayas and Aztecs, used to wear a belt of jade around their waist because it wasthought to relieve kidney problems. Jade isalso known as being one of the toughestnatural stones, and these cultures used itto make many of their everyday tools. Thepeaceful features of this stone give it thequalities to be deemed the birthstone forthe month of March as well as for thezodiac sign Virgo.

In gemstone therapy, jade is believed toimprove creativity and mental agility whilealso having a balancing and harmonisingeffect. This stone is known in China as the“stone of heaven” and is known to embodythe Confucian virtues of wisdom, justice,compassion, modesty and courage. Thequalities were so important that the Aztecsburied their loved ones in jade masks sothat they would have a peaceful death.

Jade is actually two distinct stones and, although it is typically thought to be a green colour, it also comes in shades of white, yellow, pink, purple, and red.Nephrite is the more common of the twostones and can be found in China, NewZealand, Russia, Guatemala, and theSwiss Alps. This stone has been theprovincial gemstone of British Columbiasince 1968, with more than 150communities depending on the miningindustry in Canada. Jadeite is the lesscommon of the two stones and can befound in China, Russia, and Guatemala,while the most valuable type is found inBurma. The value of the jade stone isdetermined according to the intensity of colour, vivacity, texture, clarity, andtransparency.

When applied to cosmetic formulations,AC Powdered Jade may provide themystical properties that have beenassociated with the gem. Commonly usedfor healing, gemstones are also popular in holistic healing treatments, and jademay be able to bring about a sense ofbalance and harmony.

MoonstoneActive Concepts supplies a moonstonematerial which many different cultureshave associated with possessing mysticalpowers. Ancient Romans believed that an image of Diana, the goddess of themoon, was encapsulated within the sacred stone; and until the 16th Century it was believed that the appearance ofmoonstone changed with the differentphases of the moon. It has also been saidthat wearing the gem will bring one victory,health and wisdom. In India it is consideredto be sacred and is typically displayed on a yellow cloth that will bring good fortune,which is brought on by the spirit thatresides in the stone. Recognised as asymbol of fertility in many Arab countries,

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Jade.

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the stone has also been sewn intowomen’s garments.

Many believe that moonstone mayimprove one’s intuition and sensitivitytoward others, while also improving one’semotional and daydreaming tendencies.Considered a stone for lovers, it has beensaid that it will also increase feelings oftenderness and the desire to protect lovedones. Often cut into a cabochon shape,the shimmering opalescent stone was verypopular during the Art Nouveau period and was commonly used in jewellery andornamental decorations by the famousgoldsmith René Lalique and hiscontemporaries. Many pieces containingmoonstone that were created during theArt Nouveau period are now displayed inmuseums and private collections.

Moonstone is a type of feldspar thatnaturally occurs in many igneous andmetamorphic rocks. An important group of silicate minerals, feldspar comprisesapproximately half of the earth’s crust; and under certain geological conditions,gem quality stones such as moonstone,labradorite, amazonite and sunstone form.These gem quality feldspars are actuallyaluminosilicates, which contain aluminum,silicon, oxygen sodium and potassium.Although Sri Lanka is considered the to be the primary location for mining thehighest quality moonstone, the gems arealso found in the Alps, Malagasy, Burmaand India.

When added to cosmetic and personalcare products, AC Powdered Moonstonemay provide mystical properties that havebeen associated with the gem. Commonlyused for healing, and as an “energymedicine tool’, gemstone products arealso popular in holistic healing treatments.

Rose quartzActive Concepts supplies a form of rosequartz. Historically, holistic healers andtherapists around the world have employedthe natural energy of gemstones to helpcorrect physical, mental, and spiritualabnormalities. Such imbalances arethought to cause everything from dry skinto insomnia. Today, with a renewed interestin the natural living and wellness market,where health and beauty habitsincreasingly overlap, it is not surprising that the ancient practice of usinggemstones has found a place in themodern world.

A very interesting gemstone, rose quartzis one of the most desirable varieties ofquartz. It is found in Madagascar, India,Germany, and several localities in the USA.Much rose quartz was originally extractedfrom a famous site near Custer, SouthDakota, but now, most of the world’ssupply comes from Brazil. So amazing

are the rose quartz crystals that modernmineralogists from around the worlddismissed the first ones discovered asfakes.

In ancient Egypt, women wore facialmasks carved of pure rose quartz to soften and beautify the skin. Hair was dryshampooed using fine powdered clays andgemstones. The powders were combedthrough to absorb the grease and dirt. Thegem has since become the establishedstone of all things feminine and goddess-like. Rose quartz can be categorised asone of nature’s most energising minerals.

In its powdered form, it may be used to buff away dead skin cells andimpurities, revealing the soft, fresh, andyouthful skin beneath. Its light-reflectivecrystals illuminate the skin, softening flawsand boosting radiance. Its restorative and energetic properties sweep awayimpurities, improving dull or flaky skin and opening hair follicles, while protectingagainst future damage. AC Powdered Rose Quartz creates a stronger, morepotent bio-energy field in formulations.

RubyRubisa from Soliance is described as amodulating gemstone cosmetic powder.

Ruby is the red variety of the corundummineral. For thousands of years ruby hasbeen considered one of the most valuablegemstones of our earth. It has all it takesfor a precious stone: a wonderful colour,excellent hardness, and an overwhelmingbrilliance. Slight traces of the colour-creating elements such as chrome, iron,titanium and vanadium are responsible forthe red colour, synonymous with passionand power.

Metaphysical characteristics: rubyprotects people from afflictions, sorrowand disasters. This stone strengthens thespirit, prevents egoism andauthoritarianism. The wearer of the rubyenjoys wealth and property and becomesfearless.

Cosmetic characteristics: Rubisa is aruby micronised powder that is a strongstimulator and good regulator of bloodcirculation. It also has a toning effect.

SapphireSoliance has a product called Sapphira,which is described as the regulatinggemstone cosmetic powder. Sapphire,“gem of heaven”, has been cherished forthousands of years. The ancient Persiansbelieved that the earth rested on a giantsapphire and its reflection coloured thesky. From the deep blue of evening skiesto the bright and deep blue of a clear andbeautiful summer sky, sapphire exists in all the shades of blue skies. This splendidgemstone, however, also comes in many other colours, displaying the brightfireworks of sunset colours: yellow, pink,orange and purple.

Metaphysical characteristics: sapphiresymbolises loyalty and faithfulness, whileat the same time expressing love anddesire. Blue sapphire is used to transmuteangers and impulsiveness into patienceand waiting. Sapphire wakes up theconscience as well as qualities of wisdom,intuition, interior peace, knowing andsimplicity. Sapphire calms and alleviatespain.

Cosmetic characteristics: Sapphira is a sapphire micronised powder that belongsto the Lithocosmetics range composed of cosmetic precious stone. Sapphira isexcellent for the skin, the hair and thenails. It can be used to fight against skineruptions and excessive perspiration.

TopazActive Concepts supplies a topaz which isa very hard gemstone that shares the traitsof a diamond. Topaz exists in variousshades of colour from brown, yellow,orange, pink, and red. The gemstones aremostly found in Brazil, Sri Lanka, Pakistan,and Russia. Pale topaz, which has beenenhanced by irradiation to become blue, is mostly found in Brazil, Sri Lanka,Nigeria, and China.

Topaz has been associated with Jupiter,the Roman god of the sun. Being thelargest planet in the solar system, theplanet Jupiter is known as a celestialmetaphor for the king of gods. Jupiter isalso associated with health complications.The combination of bad transits and weakJupiter at birth causes complaints such as jaundice, hernia, liver problems, skindisease, and cerebral congestion. In suchcases, it is believed that wearing topazmay act as a remedial measure againstdiseases governed by Jupiter. The Greeks,on the other hand, focused on the powerof topaz to increase strength and make its wearer invisible in times of emergency.Additionally, they used the powder to cure insomnia.

Today, this elegant stone is used incosmetics in its powder form to helpstimulate blood flow circulation and

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Rose quartz.w

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improve dull skin. When used inconjunction with plant extracts, ACPowdered Topaz hydrates and protects,infusing the skin with visible life andradiance, bringing a healthy glow to thesurface. It can also be used in skinrejuvenation techniques, such a micro-dermabrasion, to correct topical flaws.

For hair care, the crystals can act astiny mirrors focusing positive light on thefollicle, where it may stimulate nascenthair.

TourmalineSoliance supplies Tourmalina, which isdescribed as the energising gemstonecosmetic powder. It is approved by Ecocertfor ecological and organic cosmetics.

Tourmaline is a mineral found in granitepegmatic and metamorphic rock. It hasbeen characterised since Ancient Egypt by a wide range of different shimmeringcolours.

Metaphysical characteristics:tourmalines are said to enhance one’sunderstanding, increase self-confidenceand amplify one’s psychic energies. They also are said to neutralise negativeenergies, dispel fear and grief, and to help in concentration and communication.Tourmaline gives off a very focuseddirectional energy; it is supposedly good for moving energy between the chakras.Pink tourmaline is said to inspire love,spirituality and creativity, and to givewisdom and enhance one’s willpower. It isone of the foremost heart chakra healers.It treats stress and nervous conditions.

Mechanism of action: tourmaline is apiezo-electric crystal which emits energy in the far infrared region (4-20 µm). These radiations have unique interactionwith biological systems by resonanceabsorption. The skin absorbs IR radiationsat 9 µm so tourmaline crystals cantransmit the energy and induce improvedblood flow. Far infrared rays improvemicrocirculation and are involved in betterhealing as they increase collagen synthesis.Niwa (1993) proved that tourmaline iscapable of activating leukocyte functionswithout promoting oxidative injury (lipid

peroxidation from unsaturated fatty acidwas markedly inhibited).

Cosmetic characteristics: Tourmalina is a micronised powder of tourmaline.Tourmalina triggers microcirculationthrough a physical phenomenon: farinfrared energy emission. It improves thecomplexion by increasing skin temperature.

Precious mineralsCorindon (Al) SpecialMicrodermabrasion (Lessonia).A fashionable skin-freshening and skin-renewing technique. Corundum is thecrystalline form of aluminium oxide. It isnaturally clear but can have various coloursdepending on the crystals it contains. The transparent specimens are used as gems (e.g. ruby, sapphire).

Hema’Tite (Libiol)Haematite is capable of acting right insidethe cells, to stimulate enzymatic activity ofprolylhydroxylase, thus increasing fibroblastproduction of pro-collagen.

Rhodo’lite (Libiol)The anti-stress stone par excellence,rhodochrosite encourages intuition andcreativity by emitting high frequencyvibrations that are actual fields of energywhich surround the bearer. When placeddirectly on the skin, it helps regulateemotions and calms restlessness andanguish. In litho-therapy, it is used to purifythe skin and to improve general physicalwellbeing. In the face of everydaypressures imposed by the urban andprofessional environment, rhodochrositeprepares our mind and renews ourstrength and energy. By aiding our memoryand mental acuity, it stabilises emotionaland energy networks.

Mala’Kyte (Libiol)The effects of malachite have beendemonstrated at several levels of the“antioxidant” defence mechanisms in ourcells. Through its effect on the superoxideradical, this mineral acts directly on thereactive species by inhibiting thesuperoxide anion at a rate of more than95%. At the same time, malachite acts at a more complex level in the body’sdefence system. Its effect on hydrogenperoxide occurs via reduced glutathione –or more precisely, through the enzyme incharge of regenerating it. This indirectactivation effect allows elimination of oneof the main factors limiting the reactionbetween hydrogen peroxide and reducedglutathione: the reduced glutathione itself.

Zin’Cyte (Libiol) orSmithsonite (zinc carbonate)This can offer advanced cell protection that

encourages natural DNA repair and shields against permanent cell lesions.Metallothioneins have a genoprotectiveeffect that helps prevent DNA lesions. They can maintain the nuclear redoxpotential, thus making DNA repair easierthrough the exchange of zinc atoms. Themetallothionein induction capability ofSmithsonite makes it a select ingredientfor daily application formulations such asday creams and foundations. It providesthe best, constant protection for cells inthe daily fight against environmentalstress. When added to detoxifying serums,zinc carbonate mineral helps fight againstthe effects of certain pollutants. It hasspecial genoprotective action, making itparticularly effective in protecting DNA, the building block of our skin cells.

Pearl sources of mineralsPearl (Ca/Mg) 200 and 500 (Lessonia)The mother-of-pearl is alternatively formedwith layers of aragonite and conchiolinorganised around a nucleus. Thus, bothmineral and organic, it especially activatesmicrocirculation and gives brightness tothe face; with sparkling particles, it givescosmetic scrubs a deep precious imagewhich is pure luxury for the skin.

Cosmepearl Freshwater Pearl Powder(Cosmetochem)A cosmetic ingredient to add a touch of luxury to personal care products. Thisis a fine powder made from micronisedfreshwater pearls coated with jojoba oil.They contain calcium carbonate in theform of aragonite crystals and traceelements and natural moisturisers in theform of a wide range of amino acids andprotein complexes. A water pearl abrasiveis also available.

Crodarom has a pearl extract whichis described as being anti-inflammatory,stimulating, invigorating, antibacterial and detoxifying. It re-energises skin tissueand strengthens hair and skin.

There are also pearl powders availablefrom A&E Connock, Sino Lion andEurocostech.

ConclusionThe growth of the use of minerals hasprovided a brand new and exciting portfolioof raw materials for the cosmetic industryand looked forward to is a wealth of furtherideas from these novel sources.

AcknowledgmentsThe author would like to thank all suppliersmentioned in this article for the use oftheir brochures to compile this article andapologise to those suppliers not mentionedbecause space did not permit a completereview.

PPCC

MINERALS

32 PERSONAL CARE March 2008

Mother-of-pearl.

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