Evelyn Handbag & Market Tote

swoonS E W I N G PAT T E R N S

Handbag12” wide10 ½” tall4 ½” deep

Market Tote15” wide13 ½” tall5 ¾” deep

handbag & MARKET TOTE

evelynBag & Photo by Jennifer Greene

Always print at “Actual Size” or 100%. www.swoonpatterns.comFeel free to sell your bags made with this pattern. Copyright 2015 Swoon Sewing Patterns

Instructions & Pattern Evelyn Handbag & Market Tote

Materials Needed:• 1 yard 44” wide quilting weight exterior fabric (1/2 yard for Handbag size)• 1 1/2 yards 44” wide quilting weight lining fabric (1 yard for Handbag size)• 1/2 yard foam interfacing (Soft & Stable, or 1 1/2 yards Pellon Flex-Foam) You can use Pellon Thermolam and Shape-flex SF101 in place of foam interfacing• 3 yards fusible woven interfacing (2 yards for Handbag size) (Pellon Shapeflex SF101)• 1/4 yard fusible stiff stabilizer (Pellon Peltex 71F)• 16” (or longer) handbag zipper (14” for Handbag size)• 9" all purpose zipper (7" for Handbag size)• Four 1 1/2” rectangle rings (1” for Handbag size)• Coordinating thread• Erasable marking pen• Fabric glue, optional (Beacon Fabri-tac)

1) PREPPINGPrint the pattern pieces for the size you want to make; pages 16-24 for the Tote size or pages 25-30 for the smaller Handbag size. Cut out all of the pattern pieces along the solid black lines. For the Main Panel, Bottom Lining and Side Panel, match the letters (butting the lines) and tape together. Trace and cut out all fabric pieces from Exterior and Lining fabric (on the wrong side), as noted on each pattern piece. Be sure to cut on the fold where marked. Repeat to cut the foam interfacing, woven interfacing and stabilizer.

Additionally, measure and cut the following:

For Tote Size: Handles • 6” x 25” • Cut 2 Lining, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing Handle Stripes • 3” x 24” • Cut 2 Lining Bottom Support • 11.5” x 5.75” • Cut 1 Stabilizer Zippered Pocket • 11” x 16” • Cut 1 Lining Zipper Tab • 3” x 4” • Cut 1 Lining

For Handbag Size: Handles • 4” x 20” • Cut 2 Lining, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing Handle Stripes • 2” x 18” • Cut 2 Lining Bottom Support • 8.5” x 4.5” • Cut 1 Stabilizer Zippered Pocket • 9” x 12” • Cut 1 Lining Zipper Tab • 3” x 4” • Cut 1 Lining

Where to stitch


Exterior Lining Wrong Side

Please note that instructions, measurements and diagrams are for the Tote sized bag. If making the Handbag size, the measurements are in parenthesis.

Center the Bottom Support stabilizer onto the wrong side of one Bottom Panel, fusible side down. There should be a 1/2” gap between the stabilizer and raw fabric edge on every side. Fuse into place.

Bottom Panel

Stabilizer

1

Connector

Stabilizer

Center a stabilizer Connector widthwise on the wrong side of a lining Connector and so that the point of the stabilizer is 1/2” from the point of the fabric Connector, and 1/2” from both side edges. Fuse into place and repeat with 3 remaining stabilizer Connectors and 3 of the lining Connectors.

Fuse woven interfacing to the wrong side of the four remaining lining Connectors without stabilizer. Fuse woven interfacing to everything else except for the Exterior pieces, Handle Stripes, Side Panel Overlays, Main Panel Overlays, Zipper Tab and two of the Top Zipper Panels.

Pin a foam interfacing Main Panel to the wrong side of an exterior Main Panel, matching all raw edges. With the exterior side down, machine baste around the entire panel at 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat to baste foam interfacing to the remaining exterior Main Panel, two exterior Side Panels, and the Bottom Panel with stabilizer (the foam interfacing will go over top of the stabilizer).

Tip: You can instead use Pellon Wonder-Under (Vliesofix in EU) to make the foam interfacing fusible instead of machine basting.

Connector

Stabilizer

Connector

Stabilizer

Connector

Stabilizer

2) HANDLE STRIPESFold a Handle Stripe in half, wrong sides together and matching the long edges, and press to make a center crease. Open and fold each long edge to the center crease and press again. The long raw edges should be butting together in the center.

Flip it right side up and make sure it’s an even 1.5” wide (1” wide for Handbag size). Fold it in half matching the short raw ends and cut it at the fold to make two Handle Stripes that are 1.5” wide and 12” long (1” wide and 9” long for Handbag size). Repeat with the remaining Handle Stripe panel. You should end up with a total of four Handle Stripes.

1

2

Fold an exterior Main Panel in half, right sides together and matching all raw edges, and press to make a center crease (or you can mark it with an eraseable marking pen). Measure 2.5” to the left (2” for Handbag size) of the center crease and mark a vertical line. Measure 2.5” to the right (2” for Handbag size) of the center crease and mark a vertical line, parallel to the center. Double check your markings using the placement lines on the paper pattern piece.

2.5”

Center crease

2.5”

Pin (or glue baste) one Handle Stripe to the LEFT of the left line, just barely covering the line itself. Top stitch down each long folded edge of the Handle Stripe. Repeat to pin then sew another Handle Stripe to the RIGHT of the right line. Both Stripes should be 2.5” from the center of the Main Panel (2” for Handbag size), and 5” apart (4” for Handbag size).

5”

Repeat to sew the two remaining Handle Stripes to the remaining exterior Main Panel.

2

3

3) OVERLAYSPin two Main Panel Overlays right sides together and matching all raw edges. Sew along the curved edge only at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to about 1/4” and flip right sides out. Roll the seam in between your fingers to get it nice and flat and press well. Repeat with the remaining two Main Panel Overlay pieces.

Pin a Main Panel Overlay to an exterior Main Panel, matching the top and side raw edges, with the curved edge of the Overlay facing downward. Top stitch along the curved edge of the Main Panel Overlay, about 1/8” from the edge. Machine baste around the sides and top edges of the Overlay at 1/4” seam allowance to fully sew the Overlay to the Main Panel.

3

4

Repeat the last paragraph to sew the remaining Main Panel Overlay to the remaining exterior Main Panel.

Repeat Step 3 to sew the Side Panel Overlays together along the longest straight edge only.

Then trim the seam allowance, flip right side out, press, and top stitch to the top ends of the two exterior Side Panels.

4) CONNECTORSPin a Connector with stabilizer to a Connector without stabilizer, right sides together and matching all raw edges. Starting at the short straight end and with the stabilizer side up, sew with a shorter stitch length down the length of the Connector at a 1/2” seam allowance, right next to but not through the stabilizer. Sew until you reach the point at the other end of the Connector. With the needle down, raise the presser foot and pivot. Continue sewing just until the curve of the stabilizer turns into a straight edge and stop. Backstitch and stitch again.

Trim the seam allowance only where you stitched down to about 1/8”. Turn right side out, using something pointy (but not sharp) to carefully poke out the point. Fold the open long raw edge in 1/2” (leave the short top end open) and press the entire Connector well. Repeat with the remaining six Connectors to end up with four finished Connectors.

4

5

Fold the raw end of a Connector under 1” and press. Slide a rectangle ring onto the Connector and into the fold. With the ring in the fold, sew across the Connector as close to the rectangle ring as you can. Pivot and continue sewing with a long top stitch length down the long edge of the Connector. Stop at the bottom point of the Connector and pivot with the needle down. Continue sewing up the other long edge until you reach the stitching at the rectangle ring, then backstitch.

Repeat the last paragraph to sew rings onto the remaining three Connectors and top stitch.

Pin (or glue baste) a Connector (fold side down) so that the top of the Connector at the fold (with rectangle ring inside it) is 2” from the top raw edge of an exterior Main Panel (1.75” for Handbag size), and centered over a Handle Stripe. Mark a line going horizontally across the Connector that is 1” down (1” for Handbag size as well) from the top horizontal line of stitching on the Connector.

2”

1”

6

Sew across the Connector, right over the top horizontal line of stitching, backstitch and stitch again. With your needle down, rotate the Main Panel so that you sew from the top corner to the bottom corner on the opposite side of the Connector. Then pivot and sew directly across the Connector over the marked line. Pivot again so you sew from that bottom corner to the top opposite corner. Backstitch.

Repeat to sew another Connector to the same Main Panel over the other Handle Stripe. And again to sew the remaining two Connectors to the remaining exterior Main Panel.

5) TOP ZIPPER PANELFold a short edge of a Top Zipper Panel under towards the wrong side 1/2” and press. Repeat to fold the other short edge of the same panel under 1/2” and press.

Repeat with the 3 remaining Top Zipper Panels.

With the zipper fully closed, clip into the zipper tape halfway on both sides of the zipper, at the very same place, 1.5” from the end of the zipper with the zipper pull.

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7

1.5”

Unzip the zipper about 3” and pin (or glue baste very lightly just along the very edge) the long handbag zipper face down onto the right side of an interfaced Top Zipper Panel, matching a long edge of the zipper with a long raw edge of the Top Zipper Panel and matching the “clipped” part of the zipper to about 1/2” from a folded end of the Top Zipper Panel. At the clip, turn that half of the zipper so it turns 90 degrees away from the Top Zipper Panel (it should turn to be parallel with the short folded edge of the Top Zipper Panel). Pin the zipper well so that it turns as sharply as you can get it. Tip: If you have trouble sewing the zipper in place, try basting it at a 90 degree angle first, before sewing it to the Top Zipper Panel.

Zipper Face Down

Flip over so the Top Zipper Panel is wrong side up and sew along the pinned long edge of the Top Zipper Panel at 1/4” seam allowance, sewing right over the zipper where it turns 90 degrees. You may want to switch to your zipper foot for this. When you get to the Zipper Pull, stop with your needle down, lift the presser foot, and slide the Zipper Pull out of the way.

Pin a Top Zipper Panel without interfacing to the Top Zipper Panel already sewn to the zipper, right sides together and matching all (raw and folded) edges. The zipper will be sandwiched between the two Top Zipper Panels.

7

8

Flip over so that the first Top Zipper Panel (with interfacing) is on top and you can see the line of stitching you added when sewing the zipper to the panel. Sew right over that same line at 1/4” seam allowance.

Trim the end of the zipper that you sewed over to match the seam allowance. Press both Top Zipper Panels away from the zipper so that they are wrong sides together and matching all edges. Pin the two panels together matching the 3 raw edges. Starting at the long raw edge, top stitch along one 2” side edge about 1/8” from the edge, then pivot and turn to sew along the seam at the zipper, and again to sew along the other 2” side edge. Machine baste along the long open raw edge at 1/4” seam allowance to fully close the two Top Zipper Panels.

Repeat the steps on Page 8 and 9 until this point to sew the two remaining Top Zipper Panels to the other long edge of the zipper, then flip, press, pin and top stitch the same as the first two.

Press each short edge of the Zipper Tab under 1/2”. Press the Zipper Tab in half, wrong sides together and matching the raw unfolded edges together, and press to make a center crease. Open and fold each long raw edge to the center crease and press again.

Now fold in half one more time, matching the two short folded edges together and press. The tab should end up 1.5” x 1.5” with all raw edges hidden.

Center

8

9

Raw edge

Now fold in half one more time, matching the two short folded edges together and press. The tab should end up 1.5” x 1.5” with all raw edges hidden.

Trim the end of your zipper so that about 2” is hanging off the end of the Top Zipper Panels. Open the Zipper Tab slightly so that you can slide the end of the zipper inside the folds that meet in the center (in the bottom half of the Zipper Tab). I apply a small amount fabric glue onto the end of the zipper to hold the Zipper Tab in place, but you can also pin in place.

Top stitch along each of the four edges of the Zipper Tab to secure it to the end of the zipper, sewing about 1/8” from each edge.

Set the assembled Top Zipper Panel aside for now.

6) GUSSETSMatch the longer of the two short edges (the bottom edge) of an exterior Side Panel with a short edge of the Bottom Panel with stabilizer and pin along that edge. Sew along that edge only at 1/2” seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Panel and top stitch right along, and about 1/8” from, the seam through the Bottom Panel and seam allowance.

9

10

Repeat the last two paragraphs to sew the remaining exterior Side Panel to the other short edge of the same Bottom Panel. Press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Panel and top stitch again.

Repeat this entire step to assemble the lining Gusset, sewing the two lining Side Panels to the remaining Bottom Panel without stabilizer.

7) ZIPPERED POCKETFold a Bottom Lining in half wrong sides together, matching all raw edges and press to make a vertical center crease. On the wrong side of the panel, mark a horizontal 9” x 1/2” box (7” x 1/2” for Handbag) that is 3.5” down from the top raw edge (2.5” for Handbag size) and goes past the center crease by 4.5” on both sides (3.5” for Handbag).

3.5”

4.5”

Now on the RIGHT side of the Bottom Lining, pin a short edge of the Zippered Pocket Panel over the rectangle you just drew, right side down (the Bottom Lining and Zippered Pocket Panel will be right sides together). The edges of the Pocket Panel should go past the rectangle box by about 1” on the top, right, and left sides.

Pocket Panelright side down

Flip over so you are looking at the wrong side of the Bottom Lining, and sew right along the rectangle you marked. Now, inside the stitched rectangle, mark the (black solid) lines as shown below (a center line, stopping 1/2” from ends, then to corners), then cut along the lines. Be careful not to clip the stitching.

1/2” 1/2”

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Pull the Zippered Pocket Panel through the hole you just cut and press all flat against the wrong side of the Main Panel. Pin a 9” zipper (7” for Handbag size) on the wrong side, face down and centered over the hole. Make sure the zipper pull is in the opening. Edge stitch the entire way around the zipper to attach. (Optional Tip: Try using fabric glue or scotch tape along the edges of the zipper in place of the pins to attach to Bottom Lining before sewing)

Now fold the loose short edge of the Pocket Panel up to meet the short edge over the zipper and press, the right sides should be together. Sew around the 3 open raw edges of the folded Pocket Panel at 1/2” seam allowance to enclose and create the “pocket”, folding the Bottom Lining out of the way so you don’t sew through it. Fold

8) LINING ASSEMBLYPin the Top Zipper Panel to a Bottom Lining panel, with the bottom wrong side of the zipper against the right side of the Bottom Lining panel, matching the long raw edge of the Top Zipper Panel to the top straight edge of the Bottom Lining. The zipper will be “face up”. The Bottom Lining edge will be a little bit longer, so center the Top Zipper Panel so it’s an equal distance from the top corners of the Bottom Lining. Sew along the top edge only at 1/2” seam allowance.

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12

8) LINING ASSEMBLYPin the Top Zipper Panel to a Bottom Lining panel, with the bottom wrong side of the zipper against the right side of the Bottom Lining panel, matching the long raw edge of the Top Zipper Panel to the top straight edge of the Bottom Lining. The zipper will be “face up”. The Bottom Lining edge will be a little bit longer, so center the Top Zipper Panel so it’s an equal distance from the top corners of the Bottom Lining. Sew along the top edge only at 1/2” seam allowance.

Pin a Top Lining panel right side down over the zipper, matching the longest edge with the top edge of the Bottom Lining. The Top Zipper Panel will be sandwiched between the two with the right side (top side) of the zipper against the right side of the Top Lining.

Flip over so that the Bottom Lining is up and sew over the same stitching at 1/2” seam allowance.

Now fold and press the Top Lining and Bottom Lining away from the zipper. Press the seam allowance UP, so that it is against the wrong side of the Top Lining. Flip over so the right side of the Top Lining and Bottom Lining are up and top stitch, about 1/8” above and parallel to, the seam, through the Top Lining and seam allowance.

12

13

Top Lining

Repeat the instructions on the last page to sew the remaining Bottom Lining and Top Lining panels to the other long raw edge of the Top Zipper Panel. Then press the seam allowance up and top stitch the same.

Set aside for now.

9) BAG ASSEMBLYFold the assembled exterior Gusset in half, right sides together and matching the two top short edges and press to make a center crease (or mark the center along both long edges within the seam allowance). You should still have center marks on the exterior Main Panels. If you don’t, fold in half, right sides together and matching all raw edges and mark the center (at the fold) along the bottom edge within the seam allowance. Repeat to mark the centers of the lining Gusset and both Bottom Lining panels (you will have to unzip the Top Zipper to fold the Bottom Lining panels in half).

Pin the exterior Gusset to an exterior Main Panel, right sides together and matching one long edge of the Gusset to the “U” shaped edge of the Main Panel. Pin at the center marks first, then pin each end of the Gusset to the top of the Main Panel. Then start at the top and work your way down to the bottom curved corners, pinning every inch or so, until the long edge of the Gusset is completely pinned to the “U” of the Main Panel. Be sure to match the bottom edges of the Side Panel Overlays with the bottom edge of the Main Panel Overlay. With the Main Panel up, start at the top of the Main Panel and sew at a 1/2” seam allowance down the side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backstitching at start and stop.

Repeat the last paragraph to sew the remaining exterior Main Panel to the other long edge of the exterior Gusset. Trim all seam allowances down to about 1/4”.

Repeat this entire step to assemble the lining, leaving a 6” opening along the bottom edge of one Bottom Lining. Be careful not to sew through the Top Zipper Panel at any point and also not to twist the zipper. Trim the seam allowances everywhere except along the 6” opening.

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14

Match Centers

10) SEW LINING TO EXTERIOROpen the Top Zipper the entire way. Place the bag exterior, right side out, inside the bag lining, wrong side out. Match each of the four top seams together and pin at the top raw edge. Continue pinning around the top every 1” or so until all raw edges are pinned together. Starting at any of the 4 side seams, sew at a 1/2” seam allowance around the entire top pinned edges of the bag, backstitching at start and stop.

11) HANDLESFold a Handle in half, wrong sides together and matching the long edges and press to make a center crease. Open and fold each long edge to the center crease, so that the long raw edges are butting up against each other at the center and press.

Fold in half again, matching the two folded long edges and press again. Now the two long raw edges should be hidden within the Handle and the Handle should be 1.5” wide (1” for Handbag size). Top stitch down each long edge of the Handle, about 1/8” from the edge.

Fold a raw end of the Handle under 1/2” and press. Fold under again 3/4” and press. Repeat with the other raw end of the same Handle. Pull one end of the Handle through a rectangle ring already attached to the exterior of the bag, with the rectangle inside the fold at the very end. Pin and sew across the Handle about 5/8” from the end fold to secure the Handle to the bag, backstitch and stitch again. It helps me to mark a straight line across the Handle to follow. Mark then sew another line of stitching closer to the rectangle ring parallel to the first one. Repeat to sew the other end of the same Handle to the other rectangle ring on the same side of the bag, making sure the Handle isn’t twisted.

Repeat this entire step to attach the remaining Handle to the other side of the bag.

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15

Trim the seam allowance down to about 1/8” and turn the bag right side out through the hole you left in the bottom of the lining. Fold the raw edges of the opening in 1/2” and press. Pin the opening closed and edgestitch very close to the folds to close the opening in the lining, backstitching at start and stop.

Press the entire bag well, especially the top seam. Top stitch around the entire top opening of the bag, about 1/4” from the finished edge.

FOLD

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Cut size: 13” x 2.25”

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This is a test square toensure the pattern printed

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2”handbag & MARKET TOTE

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Evelyn Handbag & Market Tote

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Transcript of Evelyn Handbag & Market Tote