Europa Star Europe 2.12 April/May

THE WORLDS MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE

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EUROPE EDITION

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N 312 2 /2012 April / May

2012 BASELWORLDWatchmaking keeps its AAA rating

1 WORLD PREMIERES FROM FASHION TO HIGH-END

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15/02/12 14:42

8 EDITORIAL europa star

Everyone who comes to Basel this yearwill be surprised to find a completelytransformed Messeplatz. A large build-ing hangs as if suspended in mid-airabove the large square where dozensof trams pass underneath. And this isonly the beginning of the major changesthat are happening at the exhibitionhalls, work that will be finished onlynext year. Estimates for the new con-struction are around CHF 430 million.To this enormous amount of money,we should add the budgets requiredfor the dozens of new stands that willbe constructed, also in the millions. We can just imagine all the negotia-tions that must be in full swingnego-tiations that are undoubtedly laborioussince the outcomes will determine thewatch industry hierarchy for the nextten years. The size, the location, thearchitectural prowess of the stands,and even the neighbours are all veryimportant signs that will be carefullyscrutinised by the entire industry. By making such an investment, Basel-World is sending a clear signal. Notonly does the fair intend to maintainits supremacy but it also intends tostrengthen it. We might ask, however,if these changes will ultimately be tothe detriment of the current mix, whichis one of the strong points of BaselWorld.Contrary to the SIHH, where a brand isamong friends, in other words, ingood company at a comparable level,BaselWorld maintains a delightfulshow atmosphere in which royaltymixes with the mere mortals, whereyou can find a timepiece for a millionfrancs or one for two francs. For lunch,you can grab a quick veal sausage ordip a silver spoon into a plate of caviar.

During this time, it seems that the SIHHis reconsidering its configuration. But,the recent decision by Girard-Perregauxand JeanRichard to join BaselWorldhas nothing to do with it for the simplereason that since these two brandsentered into the PPR fold, they wouldlogically and logistically want to bewith the other brands in the group,especially Gucci and Boucheron. But the problem of timing complicatesmatters once again. The provisionaldates for the next SIHH have been setfor January 21 to 25, 2013. Next year,however, BaselWorld will only open itsdoors at the end of April (April 25 toMay 2) because of the constructionwork. This is a good three months laterthan the SIHH. Since the large brandsthat are not at the SIHH do not wantto lose three months, it is a safe betthat the phagocytosis phenomenonof the SIHH by a number of privateshows held in the luxury Geneva hotelswill get a big boost. As the inviting organisation, however,will the SIHH tolerate these other showsriding on its coattails? As one of themanagers at the FHH, the Fondation dela Haute Horlogerie (the organiser ofthe SIHH), says rather philosophically,Even if we are unfailingly allied in time,since all watch brands share a com-mon interest, its dog eat dog on theground And, once again, it will be the mostfragile and the most modest companiesthat run the risk of paying the heaviestprice. On one hand, the most covetedlocations at BaselWorld will quickly besnapped up by the most powerfulbrands, and no doubt prices will risefor everyone. On the other hand, theGTE show, organised for independentsin Geneva in parallel with the SIHH,

did not fare so well, and it is probablethat it will not take place again nextyear. Because of a lack of resources andavailable space, not all of these samesmall companies can rent space in thehotels around the lake. Everything is accelerating towards agradual unravelling of the watchmak-ing fabric (as is also being seen in theeconomy in general). There will alwaysbe those who succeed in reaping thebenefits from this change, but formany medium-sized brands that havebeen managing up to now, the chal-lenges will be great.

Watch shows, the big transitionRPierre M. Maillard Editor-in-Chief

Edito212_Editorial212 21.02.12 11:09 Page2

ZENITH Visual: Chronomaster Open Steel Magazine: Europa Star Language: EnglishDoc size: 205 x 265 mm Calitho #: 02-12-71763 AOS #: ZEN_02239

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EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER OPEN

Life is in the movement

EDITORIAL8 Watch shows, the big transition

RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE16 AAA

COVER STORY28 Ref. 5204, The latest in Patek Philippes stable of house

chronographs

HIGH-END WATCHMAKING32 Exploring the world with Rolex 34 Breguet continues its Tradition 36 Chanel, haute horlogerie for the ladies38 De Grisogonos first tourbillon for ladies 40 Harry Winston and the tourbillons, what a story!42 Chopard Revisiting the classics 44 Bovet a rising star in fine watchmaking

GALLERY46 Tourbillons (1)48 Tourbillons (2)

COMPLICATED WATCHES50 Speake-Marin Watchmaking renaissance52 HYT Liquid Display 53 Devon one year under its belts 54 Technotimes tourbillon on the podium 56 Eva Leube brings high horology to Australia

GALLERY58 Complicated watches59 Classic watches

STRATEGIES60 The H1837 movement, at the heart of the watch strategy

of Herms64 Jean-Claude Biver passing on the knowledge at Hublot66 TAG Heuer, going beyond Huygens70 Bell & Ross 2012 Keeping an eye on the horizon72 Eternas new Chinese blood76 A first glance at Seikos 2012 collections78 The Omega Seamaster celebrates 50 years of James Bond

films80 Longines: 180 years young82 Hamilton in buoyant mood for anniversary84 Tissots 2012 watchmaking medley

GALLERY88 Ladies watches89 Diamond watches

10 CONTENTS europa star

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N 312 2/2012 APRIL/MAY

SPLIT-SECONDS PERPETUALCALENDAR CHRONOGRAPHREF. 5204 by Patek Philippe

950 platinum, 40mm timepieceequipped with Patek PhilippesCalibre CH-29-535 PS Q with65-hour power reserve.Manually-wound mechanicalmovement, split-secondschronograph, subsidiary seconds,day, month, date and moonphase. Patek Philippe Seal.

Patek Philippe 141 Chemin du Pont-du-CentenaireP.O. Box 26541211 Genve 2Switzerland Tel: +41 22 884 20 20 Fax: +41 22 884 20 40 www.patek.com

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(Continued on page 12)

Sommaire212_Sommaire212 23.02.12 11:41 Page2

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12 CONTENTS europa star

LADIES WATCHES90 Centurys sparkling ballet92 David Yurman Classic, ceramic and red gold

GALLERY94 Mechanical watches

MECHANICAL WATCHES95 Carl F. Bucherer staying strong96 Epos a family affair98 Frdrique Constant and the heart beat goes on99 Ernest Borel Classic, romantic, timeless102 Vulcain The Cricket conquers104 Graham London Oversize and on the right track106 Keeping time the Chinese way

GALLERY108 Sports watches (1)

SPORTS WATCHES109 Bremont taking on the world110 Victorinox Swiss Army Light in the dark112 Linde Werdelin Skeletonised spidos114 Hanhart 130 years of real history116 Alpina Retelling the pilot story

GALLERY118 Sports watches (2)120 Sports watches (3)

DESIGN WATCHES122 Gc Swiss automatics, high water resistance and new

matte finishes124 The rise and rise of Ice-Watch

GALLERY126 Design watches128 Watches with colour

RETAIL WORLD130 Retailers have their say

WORLDWATCHWEB 134 Brands use digital to make an impact at the big watch fairs138 WorldWatchReport 2012: China overtakes, Omega closes in

on Rolex and other key findings

144 EDITORIAL AND ADVERTISERS INDEX

LAKIN@LARGE152 Seeing is believing

ADVERTORIAL: ORIENT WATCH

Europa Star HBM SA25 Route des AcaciasP.O. Box 1355CH-1211 Geneva 26SwitzerlandTel +41 (0)22 307 78 37Fax +41 (0)22 300 37 [email protected]

2012 EUROPA STARAudited REMP 2011

The statements and opinionsexpressed in this publication arethose of the authors and notnecessarily Europa Star.

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10.02.12 16:47

16 RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE europa star

AAA. It is the word of the year. Or, at least, the three

most coveted letters of the moment. Well, there are

the AAAs and then there are others. Those that are

only AA+ are already a bit suspect.

We wont even mention the infa-

mous B, C, or the definitive D, for

in default. At this time, There are

only twelve countries in the world

that have the AAA rating: Australia,

Canada, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Great Britain,

Luxembourg, The Netherlands, Norway, Singapore,

Sweden, and Switzerland. And, in Switzerland, you

can be sure that the watch industry has also main-

tained its triple A rating.

The numbers speak for themselves (but the num-

bers do not always tell the entire truth): In 2011,

Switzerland exported CHF 19.3 billion worth of

watches! This represents 19.2 per cent more than

the previous year, 2010, which itself saw an increase

of 22.2 per cent over 2009, even though it was a

more or less a return to zero after the downward

slide of 22.3 per cent in that fatal year.

Admittedly, the Chinese infatuation with Swiss

watches played a major role in this rather amazing

result. By itself, Southeast Asiamore precisely in

decreasing order, Hong Kong, China, Singapore,

Japan, South Korea, Taiwan and Thailandaccount-

ed for CHF 8.81 billion or nearly 50 per cent of the

total of Swiss watch exports. More than ever, the

growth engine for watches remains mainland China

with the highest increase of 48.7 per cent.

Europe, reflecting the latent crisis, absorbed only 29

per cent, while the United States held its own sur-

prisingly well, maintaining its second place position

with an increase of 18.4 per cent, for a total of near-

ly CHF 2 billion, in Swiss watch imports. Having

said that, the USA is still far behind the first market,

Hong Kong, which imported just over CHF 4 billion

worth of Swiss watch products.

Crushing domination of the groups

In this landscape, the large groups are becoming

more and more dominant. The Swatch Group

crossed, for the first time, the threshold of CHF 7

billion in turnoverCHF 7.143 billion to be pre-

cisewhich represents an increase of 21.7 per cent

at constant exchange rates, but only 10.9 per cent

if you consider the increase in the value of the Swiss

franc. The groups profits are also up: CHF 1.276 bil-

lion that join the war chest of more than CHF 8 bil-

lion of the groups own funds.

Richemont (whose fiscal year ends in March)

enjoyed the same spectacular rise in sales. Watches

account for nearly 1.8 billion (CHF 2.18 billion) inturnover, although this number does not include

the sales of 3.480 billion (CHF 4.2 billion) for

nynyn ,y,y Great Britain, with an increase of 18.4 per cent, for a total of near-

The watch industry has maintained its triple A rating.

AAAAA It i th d f th O t l t th th E flflf ti th l t t i i b b d l 29

AAA RPierre MaillardRetrospective212_Retrospective212 21.02.12 11:55 Page1

Herms Visual: Arceau Temps Suspendu Magazine: EuropaStar Europe Edition Language: 2. in english Bolduc: english Doc size: 205 x 265 mm Calitho #: 02-12-71682 AOS #: HER_00144

For inFormation : +41 32 366 71 00, [email protected]

arceau. le temps suspendu

la montre herms reinvents time and sets it to the tempo of your desires.

press on the pushbutton and suspend time. beneath the dial,

time continues to run within the heart of the mechanism. another push on the button

sets the date and hands running again. time resumes its march, and you the course of your day.

this exclusive herms calibre is a world premire.

herms. time reinvented


Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which fall under the

jewellery category. In all, counting its other activities

(Montblanc, Lancel, etc.), Richemonts turnover was

6.9 billion (CHF 8.3 billion), even greater than theSwatch Group. This is a first for Richemont since,

in 2010, its turnover was still below this level at 5.17 billion.

The worlds largest luxury group, LVMH, announced

a total turnover of 1.2 billion (CHF 1.4 billion) forits watch segment alone.

To these watchmaking mastodons, we must add the

king Rolex, whose sales are around CHF 3 billion.

So what is left for all the others?

Investing is more necessary than ever

We can easily imagine that, sitting on this considerable

war chest, with a nice outlook on the horizon (the

emerging economies that are gradually supplant-

ing the former bastions, such as Europe), the groups

will do everything to consolidate and strengthen

their pre-eminence by making maximum invest-

ments in the production tools of the future. And, it

is a future that is approaching by leaps and bounds

with the planned and progressive stoppage of

deliveries of component parts and movements by

the Swatch Group and its industrial muscle, ETA

and Nivarox.

Investing in the future has become more necessary

than ever. In mid-July, the expected decision by

Comco (the Swiss Competition Commission) gave

the Swatch Group the right to start decreasing

deliveries to third parties beginning in 2012. This

decline can vary between 5 and 30 per cent in rela-

tion to the level of orders placed in 2010. This deci-

sion involves the key elements of movements and

regulating organs. Mathematically speaking, diffi-

culties will certainly follow. This is especially true for

the mid-range, which will most feel the pain since

suitable alternatives are not yet available, despite

the announcement by the Swatch Group already in

the early 2000s, and officially reiterated in 2009, that

it would start to reduce deliveries.

For every brand like TAG Heuer, which has already

announced an agreement with Atokalpa (Sandoz

Family Foundation, which also owns Parmigiani

and Vaucher Manufacture), thus allowing it to total-

ly forego Nivarox balance springs, how many other

companies will be seriously affected by the difficul-

ties in procuring supplies?

Having said that, alternatives are

nonetheless in the pipeline. The

Festina group has stated that it

will move to true industrial pro-

duction of quality escapements,

with the goal of manufacturing

one million units per year. This is crucial since no

brand today can produce all the parts required for its

escapements. Other alternatives are coming from

Sellita, Technotime (which also makes its own bal-

ance springs, see the article in this issue), Soprod,

Lajoux-Perret, Vaucher Manufacture (partly owned

by Herms), and Dubois-Dpraz. Taken all together,

however, these enterprises still cannot fill the void

left by the ultra-powerful Swatch Group. And, it is

their pre-eminence by making maximum invnvn est- one million uni

Suitable alternatives are not yetavailable for movements

Retrospective212_Retrospective212 21.02.12 11:55 Page2

europa star RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE 19

hardly surprising that the Swatch Group currently

has many close friends who repeat over and over

that they are on very good terms with the group.

Opening large building sites

Industrial investments have thus taken on consider-

able importance and 2012 will see the opening of

many new building sites. An in-depth investigation

by Michel Jeannot and Serge Guertchakoff, pub-

lished in Bilan magazine, indicates that CHF 685

million will likely be invested in 2012 alone by some

twenty industry players, because not everything will

be completed this year.

Rolex took the lead a decade ago

and invested more than a billion

Swiss francs over the last ten years.

The brand will probably spend

CHF 100 million this year alone to

complete a 230,000 cubic-metre

site grouping together the functions of assembly,

machining, and thermic treatments, as well as an

automated storage system that would be worthy of

James Bond.

Richemont is also making large investments. Cartier

has announced that, over the next fiscal year, it will

invest CHF 100 million in a new production site,

designed to increase the number of in-house

mechanical movements. Vacheron Constantin is not

remaining on the sidelines, either, and is planning

on investing CHF 130 million over the next few

years, in order to double its watch production,

reaching 30,000 per year. Panerai is putting CHF 25

million into its new manufacturing facility, current-

ly under construction, in Neuchtel, while Piaget,

with the goal of doubling its production, is putting

CHF 15 million on the table. The biggest slice, how-

ever, is being put into the crucial sector of move-

ments. ValFleurier will thus spend CHF 100 million

on the construction of a fourth production facility,

spread over 10,000 square metres.

Also at the Swatch Group, it is the industrial and

manufacturing pole, according to the Bilan article,

that will receive the greatest share of the CHF 200 to

CHF 250 million that will be invested this year. On

the menu are the expansion of Omega, a new head-

quarters for Swatch, CHF 66 million to enlarge

Breguets ateliers, and the lions share going to ETA

to construct two factories that will make dials and

assemble mechanical movements. The Swatch

Group also continues to improve its industrial verti-

cal integration and has not forgotten to invest in the

modest but vital component that is the watch hand,

with a new structure for Universo.

Over at LVMH, they are piling up packages of 25

million: CHF 25 million for Louis Vuitton and a

new industrial facility in Geneva, which will bring

all its activities together under one roof. Another

CHF 25 million is being spent on Zenith for the

restoration of the historical part of its manufac-

ture, which requires an upgrade in order to accom-

modate new workshops for ten different skills.

Another investment of CHF 25 million is also des-

tined for TAG Heuers new production site. Finally,

ns of assembly,y,y to construct two factories that will make dials and

CHF 685 million will likely beinvested in 2012 alone by some

twenty industry players



LVMH is allocating CHF 30 million for Hublot to

double its facility.

As can be seen, these overall investments amount to

more than CHF 700 million for what we might term

the back office. As for the front office, the win-

dow to the world, we must mention the CHF 430

million invested jointly by taxpayers of Basel and the

MCH Group to enlarge and renovate the structures

that welcome BaselWorld. In this case, it is not only

watches that are concerned, but clearly the eco-

nomic importance of this sector has played a large

role in the decision, following a popular vote, to

invest this colossal sum of money.

The importance of training

Obviously, with these investments also come jobs.

The upturn in watch sales mainly concerns the lux-

ury sectorthe most expensive watches, those with

price tags above CHF 3,000 ex-factory, have seen

the greatest increases, with 20.5 per cent by quanti-

ty and 27.1 per cent by value in December 2011

aloneand the accompanying increase in invest-

ments are directly translated into new jobs.

The Swiss watch industry is hiring on a large scale.

The Swatch Group alone created 2,800 jobs last

year, and thats not all. Approximately 2,000 new

positions are planned for this year by the various

large groups and independent brands, such as

Audemars Piguet, that is spending CHF 25 million

on construction in Geneva for Centror.

With this massive hiring, training has become the

keystone of the edifice, and there are countless ini-

tiatives in this domain. Each large brand, or nearly,

has its own academy, its own school, or its own

centres for apprenticeships. The arts and crafts skills

are making a large comebackenamelling, engrav-

ing, stone-setting, etc. The rarest of techniques and

skills are being revived, such as the recent amazing

straw marquetry being showcased by at least

two brands. But the greatest portion is being allo-

cated on the industrial level, for cutting, machining,

polishing, and assembly. And this does not include

the globalisation of operations being carried out by

the groups.

Although impossible to know with precision, funds

to create networks of brand-name boutiques and

other increasingly monumental

flagship stores also exploded last

year. The race for the best location

has become a primordial part of a

brands strategy. Selling an expen-

sive watch has in itself become

increasingly expensive. And, in this

regard, too, continuous training has become vital,

especially since clients themselves have become

very well informed. Often, they know more about a

30-degree inclined tourbillon than your average

salesperson in Sichuan.

The erasure of secondary roles

The reverse side of this shiny coin is the gradual, but

increasingly noticeable, erasure of the secondary

players in the industry, who are seeing their share of

price tags above CHF 3 000 ex-factoryryr havava e seen regard too co

Selling an expensive watch has in itself become increasingly expensive.


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the market eroded by the unequalled power of

the large groups in terms of distribution, location,

recruitment, training, and especially communication.

Apart from the large well-known brands, with

established distribution networks, such as Patek

Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, and in the

mid-range, Raymond Weil (no need to mention

Rolex that all retailers dream of carrying), we hear

more and more independents complain bitterly

about the growing difficulties in

cracking open the doors of retail-

ers. The dominant impression is

that the markets are being locked

down, one after the other, at an

alarming rate, that all the niches

are being filled. In a recent article

entitled Killing the Competition, in the February

2012 edition of the American magazine, Harper's,

Barry C. Lynn, director of the Markets, Enterprise

and Resiliency Initiative in the New America

Foundation, analyses in detail the strategies for sti-

fling competition. He focuses on the examples of

Silicon Valley, the intensive factory farming of chick-

ens and the world of publishing. In these three very

different domains, he observes that the same strate-

gies are rigorously used to try to strangle the compe-

tition. Instead of a disruptive melee like that of the

late 1990s, with its diversity of players and voices, the

overwhelming tendency today is a further consoli-

dation of power by the already powerful, he writes,

referring to the way that the large players in the

information technology world, Apple at the head,

have locked up the market for products just as they

have frozen the job market. Isnt the Swiss watch-

making industry suffering from the same syndrome?

In full concentration mode

In the same manner that the big players in Silicon

Valleythe angel investorsfocus only on the

most promising small enterprises, so that they can

take them over as soon as they achieve the desired

results, the major watch brands take the best ideas

from the independents, or even poach the people

behind them. The goal is to occupy all the positions,

including the most unexpected niches.

The race to acquire know-how has become a central

element in the vast reorganisation currently hap-

pening in the industry. Sub-contractors are also

being acquired at a rapid pace, accelerating even

more the concentration in the industry, since mas-

tering the supply chain is essential. LVMH has thus

bought the movement designer, La Fabrique du

Temps, which now works first and foremost for

Louis Vuitton, and the dial maker Arcad. Hublot has

acquired Profusion, a specialist in carbon, while

Herms has invested in the case maker, Joseph

Erard. The Swatch Group has notably purchased

Novi, specialist in the assembly of movements. And,

the list goes on and on.

Painful distribution

Where the strategy of total occupation of the play-

ing field is most painfully felt by the independent

brands is at the level of distribution, which is also

in the Februaryryr The race to acquire know-how has become a central

The overwhelming tendency todayis a further consolidation of

power by the already powerful


europa star RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE 23

becoming concentrated at a rapid pace. Recently,

one watchmaker, breaking the usual silence, declared

in no uncertain terms to our colleague Bastien Buss,

of the Swiss newspaper Le Temps, Retailers are

being suffocated by the big groups. They impose the

brands, the quantities; when you arrive as a small

brand, you have almost no chance or, at best, you

may get a small space in the third drawer on the left,

but only if you agree to give your products on con-

signment, explained Pierre Dubois, owner of the

brand Pierre de Roche.

We are hearing this type of complaint more and

more frequently this year. As another small inde-

pendent confided to us, the distribution of his

pieces is becoming increasingly more expensive

since retailers, pressured, on one side, by the big

brands to reduce their margins under threat of los-

ing the account, are demanding, on the other side,

enormous margins from a lesser known brand. Can

this increasingly difficult situation be sustained?

We often hear that one of the side effects of opening

a monobrand store, and therefore of re-qualifying

the distribution networks for independents, is that

new opportunities are created where everything

had previously been locked up. But the very high

numbers of companies trying to take advantage of

this situation also create fierce competition there.

We must also distinguish between two types of

watchmaking since, like social evolutions that have

resulted in an increasingly two-speed world (or,

one speed on one side, and no speed on the other,

see our article in the previous issue, Europa Star

1/12, on acceleration as described by the German

philosopher, Hartmut Rosa), watchmaking does not

advance as a single block but at very different

speeds. While some brands accelerate down the

highway, others are stuck on the side of the road.

Independent watchmakers who benefit from the

greatest media coverage are essentially those whose

models are the most extravagant, stylistically differ-

ent, or with exceptional workmanship. While this

veritable laboratory for watchmaking of the future is

essential for the entire industry, these toys for bil-

lionaires represent only a few thousand pieces sold

per year. These brioches are not the daily bread

of the watch industry. The large brands under-

stand this. Although they strive to

present talking pieces and con-

cept watches as well in order to

attract media attention, the real

reasons are to better sell their mod-

els that are simpler, more classic,

and more sensible.

Take the snuffbox, for example

Even in the domain of conceptual watchmaking,

there is a certain feeling of lassitudetoo many

mechanisms presented as trophies, too many stylis-

tic complexities, too many combinations of baroque

materials. An era seems to be coming to an end.

We can bet that, within one or two decades, we will

certainly admire the creative explosion that hap-

pened at the beginning of the 21st century, but we will

enormous margigig ns frfrf om a lesser known brand. Can

While some brands acceleratedown the highway, others arestuck on the side of the road.



also wonder how anyone dared wear such things?

An editorialist in Le Monde, aptly described this idea,

not for watchmaking, but rather for the snuffboxes

of the 18th century. He cites a historian who wrote:

Under Louis XIV, one had a snuffbox for storing

tobacco, while under Louis XV, one used tobacco

in order to have the pleasure of owning a beauti-

ful snuffbox and showing it off to

people.

Couldnt we say the same thing

today about a watch, or at least

some watches? Snuffboxes disap-

peared a long time ago. Of course,

this will not be the fate of watch-

es, which have a different utility. Yet, the explosion of

smart phones and the changes in consumer habits

run the risk of gradually making the traditional watch

as an object obsolete, relegating it to the ranks of

collectors pieces. Fortunately, we are not at this

point and, in fact, are far from it.

Yet, there are some changes in distribution that offer

interesting opportunities for independent watch-

makers. The recent inauguration of the Maverick

boutique at the Kempinski Hotel in Geneva is a

good example. Besides some showcase pieces such

as Zenith or Piaget, we find a mix of very different

brands such as Alpina, Ateliers DeMonaco, Badollet,

Borgeaud, Ellicott, Frdric Jouvenot, Frdrique

Constant, Hautlence, Ladoire, Matres du Temps,

MCT, Milus, Raymond Weil, Roberto Coin, RJ-

Romain Jerome, Rudis Sylva and Snyperwatches

that are sold for a few thousands, or tens of thou-

sands of francs, or even hundreds of thousands of

francs, all mixed in together. What a wonderful way

for the consumer to find unusual watch products.

Hopefully, this will serve as an example for other

similar initiatives elsewhere.

Swiss Made: 100 per cent or nothing

Among the most important topics of the 2011 watch

year is one that has largely fallen by the wayside

the debate over the term Swiss Made. Hardly any-

one talks openly about it anymore since most have

realised that the debate is a trap, that Swiss Made is

nothing more than a G-string barely covering the

essential, that a level of 60 or even 80 per cent of

Swissness of a watch doesnt really mean much.

Either the decision is radical100 per cent or noth-

ingor it will resemble a plaster cast on a wooden

leg. By introducing its own quality seal, Patek

Philippe has shown the way. It is not so much the

Swiss Made label that is important or that will make

a real difference to consumers (the law leaves a lot

of latitude for claiming a watch is officially Swiss

even though its component parts come from else-

where), rather it is the brand that must provide a

guarantee of true quality, much like the automobile

industry in Germany.

From an industrial point of view, the example of the

German car is very instructive. The German indus-

try has not only secured but also strengthened its

pre-eminence because it assures a high level of qual-

ity for all of its cars, whether an entry-level model or

the explosion of one talks openlylyl about it anynyn more since most havava e

100 per cent or nothingor it will resemble a plaster cast

on a wooden leg.


Taking center stage: Manero CentralChrono.

The Manero CentralChrono from Carl F. Bucherer is a technologically advanced chronograph that takes a slightly different approach to design. The chronographs seconds and minute indicators are both center sweep hands that not only guarantee perfect legibility but also give the wearer precisely what he expects: the time of day and a chronograph, all at a glance.

www.carl-f-bucherer.com

12_0044_CentralChro_Europa.indd 112_0044_CentralChro_Europa.indd 1 26.01.12 KW 4 09:4726.01.12 KW 4 09:47


one at the very high end (and this despite the fact

that the component parts come from Romania, or

Portugal, or wherever).

The considerable industrial investments that are

planned in the years to come are thus essential for

Switzerland to preserve its qualitative pre-emi-

nence. This means, however, that the funds must be

used for both the most expensive watches as well as

the most affordable ones, since the winds can

always change direction. It is, therefore, essential

that Swiss watchmakers do not, like American car

manufacturers a few years ago, continue to offer

only enormous SUVs when the demand is turning

towards smaller models.

At the mercy of opposing winds

But why should the winds change? Because nothing

is impossible. The watch industrywe say it in

these columns year after yearhas a short memo-

ry. It has already forgotten the infamous day of

September 14, 2008 when the symbolicand liter-

alfall of Lehman Brothers signalled the dramatic

worsening of the banking and financial crisis, a crisis

that still bitterly affects many today. The following

year, 2009, saw a decline of more than 20 per cent in

Swiss watch exports, and thus reshaped a large part

of its industrial fabric. All of that, forgotten

Today, the world is not sheltered from other such

cataclysms, and the dependence on China scares

more than a few watchmakers who have put all

their eggs in the bamboo basket.

While it is imperative that brands diversify their

markets, it is also important to be able to offer a

palette of diversified products. (We at Europa Star

speak from our own modest expe-

rience, since we suffered only a

small decline in 2009 because,

unlike many publications which

are devoted only to the high-end

market, we cover the entire watch

industry, from the most modest to

the most famous.)

Whatever happens, history moves forward and

watchmaking with it. In fact, it seems to be moving

faster and faster, like the craze for high frequencies

that literally took the industry by storm in 2011. 50

Hz, 500 Hz, 1000 Hz, 2000 Hz... The regulating

organs are racing ahead, with or without a bal-

ance, thanks to the effects of resonance or even by

means of vibrating beams. In turn, TAG Heuer, de

Bethune, Montblanc and Zenith raised their fre-

quencies. TAG Heuer has even developed a proto-

type that can mechanically indicate 1/2,000th of a

second. Over at de Bethune, they are laying the

foundations for a new science, the rsonique that

could theoretically reach 1/10,000th of a second. At

the other end of the speed spectrum, Herms has

been mechanically suspending time in order to not

have to count it.

Watchmakinga mirror of our time and of our con-

tradictions. O

used for both the most expensivivi e watches as well as Whatever happe

Its essential that Swiss watchmak-ers do not, like American car manu-facturers a few years ago, continueto offer only enormous SUVs


CMYK Century Times Gems Woman_1 MOGUL 205 x 265 mm Visual Europa Star 9_2_2012

Century Time Gems Ltd. Zihlstrasse 50 CH-2560 Nidau Switzerland Tel. +41 32 332 98 88 www.century.com

BASELWORLDHall of dreams 1.0 Pavilion C27

28 COVER STORY europa star

RPierre Maillard

SSince 2005, Patek Philippe has consistentlycarved out a new space for its chronographs.Upuntil that time, the only basic movement whosebauche came from outside the Geneva-basedmanufacture was the chronograph calibre 27-70. Produced exclusively for Patek Philippe byNouvelle Lemania (Swatch Group), this calibrewas made in accordance with very strict spec-ifications and was then finished and assem-bled in Geneva.Even though it was considered to be one of themost beautiful and best performing chrono-graphs in the world, Patek Philippe was deter-mined to surpass it by producing its ownchronograph calibres. The brands decisiontook on the form of a veritable offensive. Theeffort paid off, however, and, in a little morethan six years, the family-run manufacture hasdeveloped no less than four new basic chrono-graph calibres.

In 2005, the firsthouse chronographPatek Philippe introduced its first entirely in-house manufactured chronograph calibre in2005. Inspired by an historic movement dat-ing back to 1902, the CHR 27-525 PS calibreis a manual-winding split-seconds movementwith column wheels and the thinnest everproduced (5.25 mm in thickness). With twocolumn wheels, two single pushers, and thepossibilities for maintaining a reference time, aswell as its numerous other technical and aes-thetic characteristics, this calibre was placed inthe highly prestigious timepiece, the Reference5959P, presented in a limited series of tenpieces in a platinum officers-style case.The following year, in 2006, Patek Philipperevealed a new calibre, the CH 28-520 IRMQA 24H, the first chronograph movementautomatic this timethat was totally designed,developed, and produced by the manufacture.With the addition of the famous and patentedannual calendar mechanism, this new auto-matic column-wheel chronograph has a split-seconds function, power reserve indicator andday/night indicator.With its original construc-

tion, this calibre drives the Reference 5960P,to which it offers an elegant, dynamic, andbalanced dial with its very characteristic singlecounter that regroups the chronographs hourand minute counters. This same movementalso equips the Nautilus Ref 5980/1 chrono-graph, with the same single counter, but with-out the annual calendar.In 2009, the first manual-winding classicchronograph, the Calibre CH 29-535 PS, wasproduced. At its introduction, this manualmovementcrafted 100 per cent in the PatekPhilippe atelierssurpassed and thus replacedthe Calibre CH 27-70 based on the hithertoutilised Nouvelle Lemania calibre. It equippedthe famous Ladies First Chronograph, beforebeing used the following year in a mens ver-sion, the Reference 5170.A few details of thissuperbly designed classic calibre, consisting of269 components, are: column wheels withpolished cap; a toothed-wheel clutch with an S-shaped lever; Breguet balance spring; large four-arm Gyromax balance with four inertia-blocksand a frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vibrationsper hour. Its six patents pending not only dealwith improvements relating to better energy

REF. 5204, THE LATEST IN PATEK PHILIPPESSTABLE OF HOUSECHRONOGRAPHS

CoverStory212_CoverStory212 15.02.12 10:57 Page2

europa star COVER STORY 29

transmission, reduced friction, increased preci-sion, and a reduction in vibrations of the hands,but they also simplify the work of the watch-maker. By allowing for optimal adjustment,these innovations offer the timepiece greateroperating reliability while contributing to adeeper mastery over the art of the chronograph.

The following year, 2010, marked both thedefinitive retirement of the Calibre 27-70 Q inall its versions (after 25 years of very goodand loyal service), and the arrival of the PatekPhilippe Triple Complication Reference 5208P.The quintessence of the Patek Philippe style, ithas an uncluttered dial that conceals a self-winding movement, the Calibre R CH 27 PSQI, which integrates a number of complica-tions: minute repeater, mono-pusher chrono-graph, an instantaneous perpetual calendarwith apertures, and moon phases.The additionand combination of three major complicationsrequires not less than 701 component parts,all housed in the small diameter of 32 mmwith a height of 10.35 mm. Moreover, forthe first time in the family of Patek PhilippeGrand Complications, this calibre beats to therhythm of an escapement and balance springmade of Silinvar, derived from silicon.

5204: perfecting the masteryover the chronographIn 2012, Patek Philippe continues to perfectthe mastery over the chronograph with theintroduction of the split-seconds perpetual cal-endar chronograph Reference 5204. Devel-oped on the Calibre CH 29-535 base intro-duced in 2009, this movement includes manynew developments, among them a new split-seconds mechanism as well as a newly createdperpetual calendar. It is now at the pinnacle ofthe new generation of Patek Philippe chrono-graphs developed since 2005. Right from thebeginning, the basic CH 29-535 was designedto accommodate future developments suchas the split-seconds hand and the perpetualcalendar.

Since 2005, progressive and continuous im-provements have beenmade to the calibre, thuscreating a top product, as Marc Lemonnier,constructor, and Philip Barat, developmentdirector, say modestly, even too modestly. Atfirst glance, these improvementsadded overtime, one after the othermay seem limited,only dealing with the details of the construc-tion or of the mechanical functioning. Yet, itis the patient addition of these accumulat-ed devices that has led to real and decisiveadvances, and that makes the new generationof Patek Philippe chronographs truly excep-tional pieces.

A new lifting-leverAs an example, lets look at the changes madeto the CH 29-535 basic chronograph move-ment (created in 2009),which allow it to acceptthe split-seconds complication.The main originality of this split-seconds handis the use of a completely new lifting-lever sys-tem. Normally, when you activate the chrono-graph, the loss of amplitude is around 30, towhich you must add a further loss of amplitudeof 30 when the split-seconds hand is activat-ed. The lifting-lever system developed for this


30 COVER STORY europa star

new calibre avoids the friction on the heart-piece when the split-seconds hand is started,thus gaining 30 in mechanical amplitude.Instead of the traditional octopus and itsarms (which, because mounted on the columnwheel of the split-seconds hand, always turnsin the same direction and must be equippedwith a spring allowing it to return to zero), thenew system developed by Patek Philippe iscomposed of an arm in the form of a swansfoot commanded directly by the column wheel,thus preventing the two hands from separating.For its return to zero, the watchmakers replacedthe roller with a flat, thus reducing the frictionand providing better stability for the two hands.The heart-piece has been slit in order to acceptthe runner with flat, which no longer touchesthe shoulders of the heart-piece. Finally, thespring no longer rubs, since it is now placed atthe end of an arm. The polished cap of thesplit-seconds column wheel now becomes theeccentric spring of the split-seconds arm.This patented mechanical architecture adds tothe six patents that are already pending onthe basic movement, allowing these innova-tions. Moreover, the two bridges of the chrono-graph that were earlier separated have beenreunited into one single bridge, thus offeringa solid and unique base for the split-secondsbridge. The hammer bridge has been extend-ed and the wheel of the split-seconds has beenrebalanced so that ultimately the mechanicalphase difference between the two chrono-graph seconds hands has been reduced by 75per cent.

An ultra-flat perpetual calendarThe perpetual calendar module integrated intothis calibre is identical to that of the preced-ing Reference 5270, the first triple complica-tion wrist chronograph presented last year.Remarkably thin (1.65 mm), this mechanism,comprising 182 component parts, combineslarge levers, star-wheels for the date, day, andmonth, cams for the year, movable cams forleap years, jumper springs, or in other words,182 parts that have been tooled to the near-est micron and then hand finishedstraight-grained sides, smoothed surfaces, chamferedand polished edges. Even the teeth in the gearsand pinions have been polished by hand,one by one, on a hardwood buff wheel. Thishas all been done, not only with a concern forbeauty, of course, but also with the goal of opti-mising the entire chain of energy transmission.

Elegance and readabilityWith its 496 component parts, of which 60are used for the split-seconds hand alone, thischronograph movement vibrates at 4 Hz andhas 65 hours of power reserve. It is housed ina superb platinum case measuring 40 mm indiameter with a thickness of 14.25 mm (notcounting the noticeable curvature of the pro-

tective sapphire crystal). This relatively thinsize demonstrates that not only is this com-plex movement housed in a very small spacebut that it evokes truly timeless elegance.This timeless quality is emphasised even moreby a series of small but striking details thatrange from the curvature of the crystal to theaffirmed form of the pushers that recall thegrand historic era of the chronograph.We mustalso mention the lovely concave shape of thebezela shape that is particularly difficult topolishand the fine elongated lugs thatenhance the harmonious proportions of thistimekeeper and give it its timeless allure.

This distinct classicism is also seen in a num-ber of small contemporary touches such asthe hour and minute hands with three facesin black oxidised gold, whose centre is coat-ed with Superluminova. Four counters sharethe dial in a manner that allows for the great-est readability, with a total of twelve separatedisplays housed on the silvered opaline back-ground.Encircled by twelve white-gold applied hourmarkers, the day and month are indicated inthe traditional manner in two apertures linedup at 12 oclock. The date hand is integratedinto the aperture of the moon phase display at6 oclock, while the small seconds and 30-minute counter are placed in off-centre azuresub-dials at 9 and 3 oclock.The leap year andday/night indicators appear in two small roundopenings at 4:30 and 7:30.

Mounted on an alligator strap with matte blacksquare scales and a platinum foldover buckle,the Ref. 5204 is, of course, endowed with thePoinon Patek Philippe (Patek Philippe Seal).And, as with all the platinum cases from thevery sophisticated Geneva watch brand, a smallTopWesselton diamond is discreetly set in thecase middle at 6 oclock. Noblesse oblige. O

For more information about Patek Philippeclick on Brand Index at www.europastar.com


europa star COVER STORY 31


32 HIGH-END WATCHMAKING europa star

RPaul ONeil

TThe visionary founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf,was an early pioneer in watch marketing. Barelyhad he succeeded in producing the worldsfirst water-resistant wristwatch in 1926, whichwith his inimitable knack for a catchy namehe baptised the Oyster, than it was hungaround the neck of cross-Channel swimmerMercedes Gleitze on 21 October the followingyear for her vindication swim her attempt torelive her swim across the English Channel twoweeks previously, after a hoax by another swim-mer had called her achievement into doubt.

While Gleitzes attempt to reconfirm that shewas the third woman (and the first English-woman) to swim across to France from Englandwas unsuccessful, her testimonial regardingthe performance of the Rolex Oyster, whichproved itself a reliable and accurate time-

keeping companion even though it was sub-jected to complete immersion for hours in seawater at a temperature of not more than 58 andoften as low as 51 [10-14 degrees Celsius]was just what Hans Wilsdorf needed. Hepromptly brought out a front-page advertise-ment in Englands Daily Mail newspaper on24 November 1927 to boast of its greatesttriumph in watchmaking.

The secret behind the Oysters superior resis-tance was its patented case design, in whichthe bezel and case-back were screwed on tothe case and the crown was also screwed in,hermetically sealing the movement inside thewatch. Its clear readability both day and nightalso made it perfect for the early Himalayanexpeditions, with the Oyster accompanyingthe British Everest Expedition, which reachedan altitude of 28,150 feet (over 8,300 metres)in 1933.

By the 1950s, thanks to continuous feedbackfrom the adventurers and explorers in Rolexsreal-world research laboratory, the brand wasable to further refine its designs and produceits first professional timepieces specificallydesigned to cope with severe conditions. TheOyster thus spawned new offspring in theform of the Submariner (1953) that offeredwater resistance to a depth of 200 metres. Inthe same year, Edmund Hillary and TenzingNorgay became the first men to conquer thesummit of Everest. Since they were wearingRolex Oyster Perpetual watches, Rolex wasquick to capitalise on this historic event bylaunching a new watch dedicated to theseintrepid adventurers. It was named, quite sim-ply, Explorer.

Not content with conquering the oceans depthsand the highest peaks, Rolex also dispatchedthe Oyster in the air, accompanying the firstflight over of Everest in 1933 and the firstflight from England to Australia, by OwenCathcart-Jones and Ken Waller, in 1934. TheOyster was also on board the X-1 when itbecame the first aircraft to break the soundbarrier in 1947. At the time no one was even

Exploring the world with RolexOYSTER 1926

Rolex212_Rolex212 21.02.12 11:56 Page2

europa star HIGH-END WATCHMAKING 33

sure whether the pilot, Chuck Yeager, wouldbe able to withstand the pressure of suchspeeds, let alone his wristwatch. Rolex kept instep as transcontinental flight went commer-cial, becoming the official watch of the pilotsof Panamerican World Airways (PanAm) andushering in the era of commercial supersonicflight on the wrists of both the English andFrench test pilots of Concorde.

The ultimate test of resistance for a Rolexwatch came on 23 January 1960, when anexperimental Deep Sea Special watch wasfixed to the hull of the Trieste bathyscaphe,which set a record that has not been beaten

since by descending to 10,916 metres belowsea level in the Marianas trench. After the nine-hour expedition at unimaginable pressures, theDeep Sea resurfaced in perfect working orderand paved the way for the development ofthe Sea Dweller production watch, launchedin 1967 with a water resistance to 2000 feet(610 metres). More recently Rolex has plumbedthe depths even further by launching, in 2008,the Rolex DeepSea, which is water resistant toa depth of 3,900 metres (but is actually testedat a simulated depth of 4,875 metres in ahyperbaric tank developed by COMEX, Rolexspartner in deep-sea exploration since 1971).

Since the turn of the century, the classic Rolexmodels associated with exploration have beensubtly refined, including the GMT Master II in2005 and the Explorer II at BaselWorld lastyear. We look forward to the latest BaselWorldproduct news from Rolexwhich the brandalways keeps firmly under wraps until thestart of the showand a continuation ofRolexs involvement at the forefront of explo-ration on Earth.O

For more information about Rolex click on BrandIndex at www.europastar.com

THE HILLARY TENZING EDITION

The Hillary Tenzing Edition is a strictly limited editionof 88 packages that are sure to appeal to Rolex col-lectors and born explorers. Each package consists of areplica expedition crate like the one used on the 1953expedition, weighing a total of 19 kilogrammes, thatis filled with replica items commemorating the historicexpedition of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Thecentrepiece of the package is three special-editionRolex Explorer models (in three different case sizes:36 mm, 39mm and 42 mm) with specially designedleather straps and a vintage look and feel.

The company behind the package, Hillary TenzingEdition Ltd., stresses that is not affiliated in any waywith Rolex and when contacted by Europa Star Rolexhad no comment to make on this issue.

www.hillarytenzingedition.com

DEEP SEA SPECIAL

GMT MASTER II

Rolex212_Rolex212 21.02.12 11:56 Page3

34 HIGH-ENDWATCHMAKING europa star

RPaul ONeil

BBetween the years 1793 and 1795 Abraham-Louis Breguet fled Paris for Switzerland toavoid a particularly nasty period during theFrench Revolution known at the Great Terror.It was during his stay in Switzerland thatBreguet devised his subscriptionwatch, whichcustomers could secure by paying a deposit.Breguets aim was to get sufficient orders tobe able to produce an affordable watch thatnevertheless had a high level of quality and

reliability. The relative simplicity of the move-ments design compared with Breguets othercreations also meant that the watches couldbe serviced and repaired by any watchmaker.The subscription watch movement had a dis-tinctive arrangement, with the barrel locatedin the centre and the going train arrangedsymmetrically. Like all other watches producedfrom the 16th to the 19th centuries it wasalso fitted with a fusee and chain transmis-sion to ensure a constant force was deliveredto the going train, regardless of the level ofwinding torque in the barrel.The fusee and chains elegantly simple designinvolves a chain (early examples used gut)winding around a spiral groove in the conical

fusee. When the mainspring is fully wound,the chain is wrapped around the fusee frombottom to top and the reduced radius of the topof the cone reduces the torque acting on thebarrel. As the mainspring unwinds, the chainmoves towards the bottom of the fusee, withthe increased radius increasing the torque onthe barrel and therefore compensating for thereduced torque of the unwound mainspring.Fusee and chain mechanisms proved them-selves in pocket watches over a period ofthree hundred years but it was not until 1994that the design was first incorporated into awristwatch by A. Lange & Shne. Breguet laterincorporated the traditional technology intoits Tradition line in 2010, with the platinumversion of reference 7047, combining thisnearly 500 year-old design with the brandspioneering advances in the use of silicon forwatch components.The latest incarnation of reference 7047, pre-sented by Breguet at BaselWorld 2012, is the18-carat rose-gold version using the Breguetcalibre 569 with a silicon balance spring andescapement, as well as Breguets patented tita-nium balance. The off-centre dial at 7 oclockin 18-carat gold, which has the traditionalBreguet engine-turned decoration, is coatedwith a new black galvanic treatment. The 60-second tourbillon is visible opposite the dial inthe 1 oclock position, while the 50-hour powerreserve can be read off Breguets patentedpower reserve indicator that is housed directlyon the barrel drum and is connected to thebarrel by a system of differential gears.The rose-gold version of reference 7047 com-pletes the materials available in the four refer-ences of theTradition collection,which upholdsthe historical technologies of the companysfounder and continues his fervent quest forinnovation.O

For more information about Breguet click onBrand Index at www.europastar.com

Breguet continues itsTradition

Breguet212_Breguet212 15.02.12 10:47 Page2

Get in touch at www.tissot.ch

TissoT TradiTion PerPeTual Calendar

chosen by Tony Parker Professional Basketball PlayerClassic timepiece with exclusive perpetual calendar movement.

316L stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance up to 3 bar (30 m / 100 ft).

in TOUCH wiTH yOUr Time


RPierre Maillard

CChanel made its entry into the very closed cir-cle of haute horlogerie in 2005 with its J12Tourbillon. This complication was followed in2010 by a very original and amazing time-piece, the J12 Rtrograde Mystrieuse. Aworld first, this grand complication was com-bined with a tourbillon, a retrograde minutehand, digitally displayed minutes, and a re-tractable, vertical crown.Today, armed with this patiently acquiredwatchmaking expertise, Chanel is taking anadditional step by offering women the oppor-tunity to enter into the world of grand mechan-ical complications. But, Chanel oblige, this firstfeminine incursion into the universe of time-keeping complexity must, of course, be aspoetic as it is mysterious, as pure in appear-ance as it is complex and exceptional in itsconstruction. It is thus natural that the brandturned its attention to the tourbillon, but nota traditional tourbillon, a flying tourbillon.

The particularitiesof a flying tourbillonTraditionally, the carriage of the tourbillonin which the regulating organ of the watch,i.e. the escapement, the balance and the bal-ance spring, is suspendedoscillates betweenthe base of the movement, the plate, and theupper bridge that together support the car-riage on its axis.In a flying tourbillon, there is no upper bridgeand the cage seems to be whirling aroundweightlessly. But this freedom is not exemptfrom technical constraints because, even with-out the upper bridge, the flying tourbillon muststill be able to withstand shocks at least aswell as a traditional tourbillon. It is therefore

necessary for the watchmakers to pay evencloser attention to the precision of the tiny con-struction and to the three-dimensional assem-bly of the carriage. As the brand always doeswith its haute horlogerie pieces, Chanel workedclosely with the constructors, engineers, andmaster Swiss watchmakers at Renaud & Papi(APRP), the advanced research and develop-ment arm of Audemars Piguet, to develop thisflying tourbillon.

A floral carriage in motionChanel decided to introduce this flying tour-billon into the heart of the Premire watch,and this union was carried out with the utmostgrace and discreet refinement. While many

complicated watches show off their complex-ity by boldly displaying the movement, thePremire TourbillonVolant maintains a certaindegree of reserve. The flying tourbillon in thePremire functions nearly in secret, its carriagehaving been transformed into a camellia, thefavourite flower of Mademoiselle Chanel. Thestylised motif of the camellia rotates magicallyabove a very pure dial in ceramic.While the eye might catch a glimpse of thecomplexity of the elements that make up theflying tourbillon in between the movementsof the camellia, it is especially drawn to thefloral spectacle.The carriage of the flying tourbillon was de-signed to be as large as possible, in order to

Chanel, haute horlogerie for the ladies

Chanel212_Chanel212 15.02.12 10:54 Page2

europa star HIGH-ENDWATCHMAKING 37

emphasise the animation. The edges of thecamellias petals are made of metal and theheart of the petals is filled with a lattice thatgives the flower its delicate texture.In order to keep the carriage as lightweight aspossible, this lattice was designed using theMimotec process. (This process is used tomake micro-components that offer an excep-tional degree of precision as well as superlativesurface finishing.) The external elements thatmake up the camellia are screwed in at threepoints directly onto the flying tourbillon car-riage. At the centre of the tiered flower is acabochon delicately set with diamonds.The camellia makes one revolution per minute,with the petals indicating the passage of theseconds. The hour and minute hands havebeen placed off-centre higher up on the dial.The baton-shaped hands, characteristic of the

Premire timepiece, have been slightly raisedsince they must pass above the flying flower.Moving around a black ceramic dial, the handshave also been decorated with diamonds,whichrepresents a feat in itself, given their size andthe meticulous manner in which they are set.The impression of depth is reinforced by theshadow formed by the CHANEL signature.

A place for lightWhile preserving the perfectly balanced pro-portions, the case of the Premire TourbillonVolant has taken on new dimensions: 28.5 mmby 37 mm, as compared to 19 mm by 26 mmin the traditional Premire. Its stylised geom-etry is on two levels. A bezel is fitted on topof the case middle and surrounds the entireperimeter. The corners have been truncated,conferring additional dynamism to the piece,

providing plays of light that emphasise thebeauty and value of the rotating floral sculpture.The two levels of the case also offer the possi-bility of creating many variations for stonesetting. The base of the case can be set withvertical baguette diamonds, for example, rec-tangular along the entire perimeter excepton the truncated corners, which are high-lighted by square baguette diamonds, and theside of the bezel can be set with round dia-monds. Alternatively, the bezel can be set withbaguette diamonds or diamonds combinedwith coloured precious gemstones, thus mix-ing the fire of their colours and sparkle, andcreating many different harmonious arrange-ments. The possible variations and combina-tions are endless.On the side of the case, the large crown isalso set with baguette or round diamonds. Itssize permits easy winding of the manually-wound mechanical movement (TDC 10) thatdrives the Premire Tourbillon Volant.With 40 hours of power reserve, this move-ment has been mounted on a rectangularbottom plate, decorated with a blackenedCtes de Genve pattern. The other finishingtouches are exceptional: the various compo-nent parts are chamfered, drawn and circulargrained by hand in the highest tradition.Finally, to maximize comfort for the wearer, thePremire Tourbillon Volant is mounted eitheron an alligator leather or satin strap that isperfectly integrated into the case. The integra-tion of case and bracelet offers remarkablesuppleness.Available in three different lengths,the bracelet comes with a fold-over clasp whosecover is set with baguette diamonds.The watchmaking complexity of the PremireTourbillon Volant, combined with the extremeartisanal care in the stone setting and finishing,make this a very rare object. In 2012, Chanelhas thus planned to create 20 of these remark-able timepieces set with diamonds.

For more information about Chanel click onBrand Index at www.europastar.com

Chanel212_Chanel212 15.02.12 10:54 Page3


RPaul ONeil

TThe exceptional new piece that De Grisogonowill present at BaselWorld this year is a genuinetreat for ladies. The Tondo Tourbillon Gioiellois fitted with the brands first manual windingmechanical tourbillon movement. Furthermore,the novel position of the tourbillon carriage,which is visible in the 8 oclock position, sets thewatch apart and leaves room for an equallynovel dial design.Using the XL version of the Tondo case in18-carat white gold, with the imposing dimen-sions of 60.49mm by 45.35mm, this diamond-set piece weighs in at over 100 grammes (82grammes for the case and a further 35.38grammes for the white-gold buckle) and thuscannot fail to catch the eye.The traditional yellow-gold screws on the bal-ance wheel and the warm red of the ruby jewelsettings and pallets are the only colours pre-sent on the dial among the gloss of polishedstainless steel and the shimmer of mother-of-

pearl. They immediately draw attention to thetourbillon mechanism, which is powered by amainspring that offers a 72-hour power reserve.Despite its understated look, the dial elegantlyillustrates all the interactions within the watch.A polished bridge at 3 oclock shows the con-nection between the crown, the winding stemand the ratchet wheel at 12 oclock (which isengraved with the de Grisogono coat of armsat the centre and the name around the circum-ference) and the elements responsible for trans-mitting the energy to the balance to drive thewhite-gold Dauphine hands are all clearly vis-ible beneath the tourbillon carriage. Mother-of-pearl sections complete the space to provide aharmonious transition to the sparkling bezel.

A total of 8.57 carats of diamonds are set onthe Tondo Tourbillon Gioiello using the qua-tre grains invisible stone-setting method. Thebezel accounts for around 3.52 carats alone,with 33 white diamonds set into it. A further469 white diamonds (4.2 carats) are set intothe rest of the case and the lugs, and another140 white diamonds grace the 18-carat white-gold butterfly clasp.The watch is completed with two signature deGrisogono elements: a deep black diamond(0.1 carat) set into the watch crown and awhite galuchat strap. O

For more information about deGrisogono clickon Brand Index at www.europastar.com

De Grisogonos first tourbillon for ladies

ogonoenuineoiellondingmore

deGrisogono212_deGrisogono212 15.02.12 10:59 Page2

RICHARD MILLE CALIBEREXTRA FLAT AUTOMATIC RM 033

Diameter: 45.70 mm x 6.30 mmFree sprung balance with variable inertia

Monoblock micro rotor in PlatiniumPower reserve: 42 hours

Baseplate, bridges and balance cock made of titaniumBalance: glucydur, 4 arms

Inertia moment 5.75 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53Frequency: 21,600 vph (3hz)

Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and the caseUpper flange in carbon fiber

Baseplate in hand-ground grade 5 titanium,wet sandblasted, Titalyt treated

Bridges wet sandblasted, top surface polished by hand,grade 5 titanium PVD treated

Locking sections hand polishedSapphire blasted surfaces

A R A C I N G M A C H I N E O N T H E W R I S T

www.richardmille.com

Pub RM 033 SP EUROPASTAR GB_:Mise en page 1 25/11/11 17:13 Page 1


RPierre Maillard

HHarry Winston began telling its own storyabout the tourbillon in 2009, with its Histoirede Tourbillon N 1.The first story was alreadycomplicated since this first model, which hassince become part of a veritable compendiumof stories, consisted of two single-axis tourbil-lons weighing 0.46 grammes, inclined at 25,each making one revolution in 36 seconds. Itwas an attempt to neutralise the effects ofgravity as much as possible.

The second story, told in 2011, is about a bi-axial flying tourbillon.The absence of the upperbridge of the carriage in the model calledHistoire de Tourbillon N 2, provides a spec-tacular scene. The double concentric carriageis housed in a dome which makes a full revo-lution in 120 seconds, while the inner car-riage makes its revolution in 40 seconds.

For its third story, which is being told this year,Harry Winston comes on very strong, if wemight say, with its Histoire de Tourbillon N3, featuring a bi-axial double tourbillon whoseinner carriagewhich supports the balance,balance spring, and escapementmakes onerevolution in 40 seconds while the externalcarriage revolves in 120 seconds. Beside this,a single-axis tourbillon calmly makes its revo-lution in 36 seconds. The ensemble is con-nected by a differential that gives an aver-age of their two rates.We can imagine that this must have been agreat headache for the engineers and con-structors, challenged to find the best balance

between the rotational speeds, the weightsin play, and the effects of inertia and evenresonance, without even counting the variousmaterials that Harry Winston likes to work with.We can also easily imagine the difficulties infinding a way to connect three tourbillon car-riages and two escapements in such a verysmall three-dimensional space. This is whatmakes the story of the Histoire de TourbillonN 3 so compelling and aesthetically unlikeany other. Architecturally, the case is a three-dimensional assembly of 77 distinct compo-nent parts composed of Zalium, an alloy ofzirconiumwhich is lighter but harder than

titaniumand white gold. The rectangularcase, in brushed grey Zalium, is quite angular.The tourbillons are placed in a rounded white-gold container that protrudes above the caseand over its sides at 9 oclock and 6 oclock.Above and to the right, the hours and minutesare indicated by two rotating discs placed sideby side. The indicator for the power reserve(50 hours) in this manual-winding movementis placed in the lower right-hand corner of thecase. Its disc is set with sapphires and citrines.The story of this tourbillon, like the others thatpreceded it, will only be intimately told to 20people around the world.O

For more information about Harry Winston clickon Brand Index at www.europastar.com

Harry Winston and the tourbillons,what a story!

b t th t ti l d th i ht

titaniumacase, in brusThe tourbillo

ld t i

HarryWinston212_HarryWinston212 15.02.12 11:15 Page2

masterpieces

Master Series

Treasure the past, embrace the future

TITONI LTD.Schtzengasse 18 | 2540 Grenchen | Switzerland | Phone +41 32 654 57 00 | www.titoni.ch

Ad_Titoni_205x265_Moonphase_H.indd 1 24.11.11 08:40


RKeith W. Strandberg

TThis year at BaselWorld, Chopard is going deepinto its areas of expertisefine watchmaking,classic styling and high jewellery making.

Classic interpretationThe new Classic Manufactum by Chopard hasbeen designed to be a bridge between thepast and present, a link between the pocket-watches that forged the reputation of brandfounder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, and Chopardsmodern-day wristwatches. Everything aboutthe design of the Classic Manufactum reflectsthe classicism of the Belle Epoque: the porce-

lain-type dial, the shiny black Roman numer-als; the small seconds subdial at 6 oclockwith a railtrack graduation typical of thepocket-watches of the era; and the slendergold-toned hands. This timepiece is poweredby Chopard Calibre 01.04-C, a new mechani-cal self-winding movement entirely devel-oped in-house and produced in the work-shops of Fleurier Ebauches, the ChopardGroup unit in charge of the industrial produc-tion of movements not destined for its L.U.CHaute Horlogerie collection.

Chopard Revisiting the classics

CLASSIC MANUFACTUM

CALIBRE 01.04-C

Chopard212_Chopard212 21.02.12 11:04 Page2

europa star HIGH-END WATCHMAKING 43

L.U.C. Lunar One redesignedSpeaking of L.U.C, the L.U.C Lunar One hasundergone a transformationthe rounded43 mm-diameter case, with its polished andsatin-brushed lugs, has been entirely redesignedto ensure aesthetic balance and enhancedcomfort. The crown, engraved with the L.U.Clogo, is slender while remaining perfectlyergonomic, and the case-back with its generoussapphire crystal central opening is engravedwith the inscriptions Chopard Manufacture,Lunar One and L.U.C

For the ladiesIn 2011, Chopard introduced the surprisingMille Miglia Racing In Pink model. This year,Chopard offers women a sporty and elegantchronograph simply named Mille Miglia Lady,powered by a COSC-certified mechanical self-winding movement with a 42-hour powerreserve.

Imperiale Tourbillon Full SetThe new Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set embod-ies a concentrated blend of high watchmak-ing and high jewelleryChopards twin areasof expertise. Its chronometer-certified tourbil-lon calibre bearing the Poinon de Genvequality hallmark is housed within an 18-caratgold case and dial entirely set with diamonds,illustrating almost the entire range of gem-setting techniques.

Chopard clearly preferred not to choosebetween making this a watch or a jewellerycreation. The gem-setting work is a demon-stration of the brands jewellery-making skills;while the L.U.C 02-14-L (4T2I) movement isentirely designed, developed and crafted in-house and equipped with a tourbillon.O

For more information about Chopard click onBrand Index at www.europastar.com

L.U.C LUNAR ONE

MILLE MIGLIA LADY

IMPERIAL TOURBILLON FULL SET

Chopard212_Chopard212 21.02.12 11:05 Page3


RPaul ONeil

HHistory has a habit of repeating itself and it isworth noting that the development of thewatchmaking industry in the small village ofFleurier is in no small part due to the work ofEdouard Bovet and his brothers, who from1822 practically monopolised imports ofwatches into China as trade with the countryimproved. The Fleurier heritage, as well as anod to Chinas help in the companys originalsuccess, now pervade the Bovet brand, whichover the past decade has been elevated to thesummit of fine watchmaking by its ownerPascal Raffy.The company today employs around 140 peo-ple spread across its head office in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva, the historic Chteau deMtiers in the Val-de-Travers, purchased byMr Raffy in 2007 (which houses the companysHaute Horlogerie Artisanale workshop) andthe Dimier 1738 company (formerly ProgressWatch) in Tramelan, in the Bernese Jura.Building up this mini watchmaking conglom-erate has allowed Bovet to amass a consider-able amount of expertise in the world of finewatchmaking (Dimier 1738 alone masters 41different crafts) and produce exquisite time-pieces that are both highly complicated andsumptuously decorated.Although the emphasis on the brands heritageand traditional watchmaking skills are evidentin all its timepieces, this has not precludedan interesting collaboration with Pininfarina,which dates back to the 80th anniversary ofthe renowned Italian design house in 2010.The original Ottanta model that Bovet pre-sented in celebration of this anniversary wasfollowed by the Cambiano chronograph lastyear. For 2012, a new Ottanta Due tourbillon,

fitted with a completely revised tourbillon move-ment, further enhances this small collection.The uniqueAmadeo case is the cornerstone ofthe Bovet collection. With the crown at 12oclock and a special strap attachment, thewatch can be worn either as a pocket watchor a reversible wristwatch. The hinged case

also means that it can serve as a stunningminiature desk clock. To celebrate its 190thanniversary in 2012, Bovet presents the newAmadeo Fleurier 0 collection in which theAmadeo case houses a completely new tour-billon movement with a 19th century-inspireddesign that will be the basis for all of Bovetsnew complications. With the tourbillon car-riage now located at 6 oclock and all compo-nents other than the tourbillon housed ontwo three-quarter plates, more space wasavailable for the regulating organ and thepower reserve could therefore be increased toseven days. The power reserve is indicated at12 oclock on the dial and is the only otherindication on the dial apart from the hour andminute hands, as well as the seconds hand onthe tourbillon carriage.

Bovet a rising star in fine watchmakingOTTANTA DUEReversible and detachable case in 18-carat red gold, 45mmin diameter, hand-wound tourbillon movement with seven-day power reserve and inversed hands on the back, rubberstrap, buckle and chain in 18-carat red gold.

AMADEO FLEURIER 0Reversible and detachable case in 18-caratwhite gold, 45mm in diameter, hand-woundtourbillon movement with seven-day powerreserve and inversed hands on the back,hand-crafted Fleurisanne decoration, blackalligator leather strap, buckle and chain in18-carat white gold.

Bovet212_Bovet212 15.02.12 10:37 Page2

europa star HIGH-ENDWATCHMAKING 45

Whilst the dial side maintains a discreet ele-gance, the movement side shows off the tal-ents of the craftsmen at Dimier 1738. An off-centre sub-dial at 12 oclock shows the timeusing inversed hands and is surrounded bythe exquisite hand-chiselled Fleurisanne dec-oration on the three-quarter plates, with thetourbillon carriage visible directly below it at6 oclock.

The true rising starThe Amadeo Fleurier Rising Star takes thingsa step further by adding two additional inde-pendent time zones to the guilloch dial onthe three-quarter plate, each with its ownseparate day or night indicator and a windowindicating the chosen city for each time (outof a choice of the 24 cities representing eachof the worlds time zones). The choice of threedifferent time displays alludes to the threeplaces that were instrumental in the successof the three Bovet brothers: Fleurier, Canton(China) and London.While the 463 components within the move-ment remain skilfully sandwiched betweenthe guilloch dial on one side and the chis-

elled three-quarter plates on the other, everyeffort has been made to show off in the bestpossible way the 66 components of the tour-billon carriage. The result is a tourbillon thatis clearly visible from both sides, allowing acritical view of the black polished tourbillonbridge, which requires a full day of bevellingwork alone. Beneath this beats an aluminiumbalance chosen for its lower weight (to improvethe power reserve) that has three hatchet-shaped movable weights in blued steel screwedto it in order to allow optimum adjustment ofthe going rate. The distinctive shape of theseweights was first seen on the balances oftimepieces manufactured by Edouard Bovet inthe 19th century.The Rising Star is a limited edition of 190 piecesto commemorate Bovets 190th anniversary.Furthermore, nine pairs of unique pieces will beproduced with miniature paintings on mother-of-pearl (which Bovet claims produces a bet-ter finish than on grand feu enamel) on themovement-side dial in recollection of thosefound on 19th century timepieces in the pri-vate collection of Bovet.The idea of producingwatches in pairs harks back to the practicali-

ties of exporting watches in the 19th century:because any repairs would require a four-month boat trip back to Switzerland, Bovetshipped watches in pairs so that their ownershad a spare if they had to return a watch forany reason. This quaint detail serves to illus-trate just how much both watchmaking tech-nology and transport links have improvedover the past two centuries! O

For more information about Bovet click onBrand Index at www.europastar.com

DIMIER RCITAL 8The eighth model in Bovets Dimier Rcital collection usesthe same tourbillon architecture as the Amadeo models butin a more conventional 48mm diameter case with a crown at3 oclock. Hollowed discs in mother-of-pearl are used for theprincipal and secondary time displays and the city for thesecondary time zone, contrasting with the Ctes de Genvedecoration on the grey anthracite dial to produce a muchmore technical look.Case in 18-carat red gold, 48mm in diameter, hand-woundtourbillon movement with seven-day power reserve, secondtime zone indication, 24-city disc and day/night indicator,black alligator leather strap, 18-carat red-gold buckle.

AMADEO FLEURIER RISING STARReversible and detachable case in 18-carat white gold,46mm in diameter, hand-wound tourbillon movement withtwo additional independent time zones, day/night indicators,two 24-city discs and inversed hands on the back, blue guil-loch dial, black alligator leather strap, buckle and chain in18-carat white gold.

Bovet212_Bovet212 15.02.12 10:37 Page3

46 GALLERY - TOURBILLONS europa star

TWENTY-8-EIGHT SKELETON TOURBILLON by DeWittThe absence of a dial and the skeleton work on DeWitts new model are designed to show off the brandsDW8028 calibre DeWitts first 100 per cent manufacture movement. Round 43mm case in 18-carat rose orwhite gold, DeWitt calibre DW8028 manually-wound movement, 18,000 vibrations per hour, 72-hour powerreserve, chocolate-brown or matt black alligator leather strap with 18-carat white or rose gold pin buckle.

HALDIMANN H2 ResonanceWorking away from the major watchmaking centres in his workshop inthe small town of Thun, Switzerland, Beat Haldimann has produced acentral double flying tourbillon movement that takes pride of place in themost classic of designs. Round 39mm or 42mm case in 950 platinum,manually-wound H-Zen B calibre with three barrels, 18,000 vibrationsper hour, hand engraved, platinum balances, hand-sewn black alligatorleather strap with buckle or folding clasp in 950 platinum.

GTS GRAND TOURBILLON SPORT by Antoine Preziuso A sporty tourbillon with an aerodynamic shape and a large52 x 45mm tonneau-shaped case crafted in the unusualalloy of ChromeCobalt (Co-Cr), which is highly resistant.Manually-wound APG/28T tourbillon calibre, 21,600 vibra-tions per hour, 110-hour power reserve, black Porosus croc-odile leather strap with red top stitching and folding clasp.Only available directly from the brand in Geneva.

FVT N1 PLANETARY TOURBILLON by Franc Vila Franc Vilas first tourbillon developed specifically for ladiesuses an Esprit Unique case in DieHard Extreme tem-pered steel that houses a flying tourbillon with spherical dif-ferential gear and inertia control mechanism. Manually-wound FV N1 movement, 21,600 vibrations per hour,120-hour power reserve, black mother-of-pearl with Clous deParis decoration and a power reserve indicator at 9 oclock.This limited series of eight pieces comes with a hand-stitchedblack alligator leather strap with a steel buckle.

Gallery212_Tourbillon1_Gallery212_Tourbillon1 21.02.12 11:33 Page2

781-44

628-13

B AS E LWOR LDHall 2.0 Stand A 40

Tutima Uhrenfabrik GmbH Postfach 1153 D-27770 Ganderkesee Germany Tel. +49(0)4221 / 98 83 20 Fax +49(0)4221 / 98 83 77 [email protected] www.tutima.de

Red is the new BlackMake your own statement in a world of uniformity.

Hardened stainless steel

Automatic movement

Two sapphire crystals

Water-resistant 10 bar

Meticulously developed on the basis of the legendary orginals from Tutima Glashtte, a Tutima Classic will always be just that a classic. From 1927 until today.

TUT_205x265mm_Europastar_2012.indd 2 14.02.12 11:25

48 GALLERY - TOURBILLONS europa star

MASTERGRAFF DOUBLE TOURBILLON GMT by Graff Amongst 306 diamonds totalling a staggering 30.61 caratsset all over the 48mm case and dial on the MasterGraffDouble Tourbillon GMT nestle two tourbillon carriages withtheir own seconds scales, as well as a second time zone dis-play at 9 oclock. The watch has a 72-hour power reserveand is fitted with a black leather strap with gold buckle.Limited edition of 10 pieces in pink or white gold.

ARACNO TOURBILLON PUR by Erick J. Exertier Geneva-based Erick J. Exertier uses a Chinese tourbillon movementin this model, which retails for CHF 7,800. Round 45mm case instainless steel with two-tone gold and PVD treatment, calibre3900 PTS, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 55-hour power reserve,off-centre hours and minutes at 6 oclock with 24-hour counter at3 oclock and power reserve indicator at 9 oclock, tourbillon car-riage visible at 12 oclock, black leather strap with pin buckle.

WITNESS ONE by Manufacture Rodolphe CattinA skeleton tourbillon with a depth to its design, the WitnessOne shows off sandblasted surfaces and black-gold bridges.Round stainless-steel 45mm case, manually-wound calibreMRC800, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 72-hour power reserve,black alligator leather strap with matching folding clasp.

SECOLO TOURBILLON by VastoThis unique piece features a tourbillon at 9 oclock with atourbillon bridge in the form of a treble clef set with 50 TopWesselton VS diamonds (0.11 carat). Cushion case in 18-carat pink gold, manually-wound TT 791.00 tourbillon cali-bre with twin barrels, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 120-hourpower reserve, brown alligator leather strap with 18-caratpink-gold buckle.

Gallery212_Tourbillon2_Gallery212_Tourbillon2 21.02.12 11:34 Page2

IndependenceIN 3106 SL

CRISTANO GmbH / Robert-Bosch-Str. 14a / D - 77815 Bhl / Germany / E-Mail: [email protected] / www.ingersolluhren.deINGERSOLL Ltd. / 39, Waterloo Road / London NW2 7TT / United Kingdom / E-Mail: [email protected]

Zeon Far East Ltd. / 6A Tai Tak Ind Bldg 2-12 Kwai Fat Rd Kwai Chung NT / E-Mail: [email protected] / www.zeon.com.hk

Wir laden Sie herzlich ein zur Baselworld, vom 08.-15.03.2012 / Halle 2.0 - Stand A80

50 COMPLICATEDWATCHES europa star

RKeith W. Strandberg

TThe times they are achanging for Peter Speake-Marin. He is moving away from the focus onPeter Speake-Marin the watchmaker andputting it on Speake-Marin the brand.The newest piece is the Renaissance TourbillonMinute Repeater. Says Speake-Marin,I wanteda bold statement watch that encapsulatedwhat Speake-Marin is, something which inco

Europa Star Europe 2.12 April/May

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