ESMOD Editions' 2016 catalogue
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Transcript of ESMOD Editions' 2016 catalogue
CATALOGUE
2016
www.esmod-editions.com
Design © Evin Tison / Photo © Gaëtan Caputo
FASHION DESIGNPATTERN DRAFTINGFASHION CULTURE
21
Cré
atio
n •
Cre
atio
n
BY WHO? Design studio (its composition depends on the company’s
size and structure) ;Product manager• This job requires certain essential qualities and compe-
tences such as:• curiosity (it is important to be clever: know where to fi nd
things and wander o the beaten path);• creativity;• autonomy;• intuition;
• a capacity to analyze, synthesize and adapt (know how to
translate a trend into shapes, fabrics and colors);
• dynamism and reactivity;• mastery of computer skills (for a verbal presentation);
• an ability to defend one’s work;• humility: since this work is often done in a team, it is
important to be able to listen and eventually question
your own ideas.
PAR QUI ? Studio créa (sa composition dépend de la taille et de la
structure de la société) ;Chef de produitCe travail requiert certaines qualités et compétences
incontournables telles que :• curiosité (il faut être astucieux : savoir où chercher et
sortir des sentiers battus) ;• créativité ;• autonomie ;• intuition ;• capacité d’analyse, de synthèse et d’adaptation (savoir
traduire une tendance ou un thème en formes,
matières et couleurs) ;• dynamisme et réactivité ;• maîtrise de l’outil informatique (pour les présentations) ;
• capacité d’argumentation ;• humilité (ce travail se fait souvent en équipe, il est
donc important d’écouter et de remettre en question
ses propres idées).
Tout peut-être source d’inspiration / Anything can be a source of inspirationCf. Parcours de création, dans la même collection.
Ex. Creative paths, fort he same collection.
13
Les jeunes maisons se composent généralement de
la manière suivante :
• Du créateur,
• D’un gestionnaire, ‘son alter égo’ responsable aussi
bien de la gestion de l’entreprise que de la stratégie
de vente et de communication.
(Souvent les créateurs travaillent en binôme (DUO
créateur/manager tel que Yves Saint Laurent et
Pierre Bergé, Thierry Mugler et Didier Grumbach,
Martin Margiela et Jenny Meirens, Marc Jacob et
Robert Du� y).
2 groupes bien distincts se dégagent de cette analyse par
leur structure et présentent un mode de fonctionnement
di� érent : le ‘créateur indépendant’ et les ‘autres’.
Nous les nommerons pour plus de facilité ‘Créateur’ & ‘PàP’.
Ils ont déterminé notre approche des Étapes de collections.
Smaller companies are generally composed in the
following way:
• Designer,
• Director/manager, the designer’s ‘alter-ego’, respon-
sable for managing the company as well as sales
and communication strategies.
(Often designers work as part of a pair – well-known
designer/manager tandems include Yves Saint Laurent
& Pierre Bergé, Thierry Mugler & Didier Grumbach,
Martin Margiela & Jenny Meirens, Marc Jacobs &
Robert Du� y).
2 distinct groups stand out in this analysis by their structure,
indicating a fashion that functions di� erently : the ‘independent
designer’ and the ‘others’.
To make things simpler, we will call them ‘Designer’ & ‘RTW’.
They will determine our approach in the Collection Steps.
Cycle de collection / Collection cycle
THE FASHION DESIGN PROCESSFIVE BOOKS that propose
a step-by-step approach to ALL THE CREATIVE PROCESSES in the fashion industry.
1 Creative pathsArmelle Claudé • Éric Rabiller
The first volume of “The Fashion design process” series, Creative paths lays the base for the creative process today in the fashion world. Numerous techniques and tools can help one develop ideas, stimulate methods of thinking… and create. Look at things differently, research freely, without restrictions, take time to experiment, be conscious of the context in which you must express your creativity.This is a thought process of a creative person on an every day basis.
2 Fashion drawingsSylvie Fagegaltier • Isabelle Gonnet
This second volume of the “The Fashion design process” series concentrates on tools for fashion drawing.Learn to draw your fashion creations by understan-ding the human body and how to stylize it through sketches. Each person will find a way to express his or her creativity by using basic drawing skills for women’s, men’s and children’s fashions.Imagine different poses and figures drawing to express techniques as a basis for drawing flat garments. Learn the vocabulary, shapes and details of the three clothing sectors.
4 Collection processArmelle Claudé • Valérie Praquin
This book brings you behind the scenes to understand how fashion collections are born, organized and manufactured. Though the industry may be fragmented, the collection process itself is universal in the phases which compose it and the collaborators involved. The work proposes a parallel between the work methods of a “creative” and a ready-to-wear designer.
5 Product environmentArmelle Claudé • Éric Rabiller • Thierry Petit
This book analyzes and helps conceive the identification codes a brand will use on all its communication grounds - logos, signage and packaging - without forgetting its marketing and merchandising strategies.
3 Graphic expressionsIsabelle d’Argœuves
The logical continuation of the second volume of “The Fashion design process” series on fashion drawing, Graphic expressions helps you diverge from fashion drawing basics to personalize your drawing know-how and become an illustrator.Explore the tools that will allow you to freely express your sensitivity in your creative universe by observing various methods for expression, which you can select based on your needs, desires and graphic environment.
21x29,796 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound32,50 € TTC
21x29,796 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound32,50 € TTC
21x29,796 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound32,50 € TTC
21x29,796 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound32,50 € TTC
21x29,7208 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound45,70 € TTC
A SERIES OF FLAT PATTERNMAKING METHODS in different sectors of ready-to-wear.
BECOME A PATTERN DRAFTER
Grading men’s garments Nathalie Coppin
This book, the second stage in our “Become a pattern drafter”: Men’s garments series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes: shirts, vests, jackets, coats, blousons, parkas, jeans and tailored trousers.Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used that can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs. Manual and computer methods are explained in partnership with the Lectra company.
Men’s garments Claire Wargnier
This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete men’s wardrobe can be made using this method from shirts to coats: shirts, ties, vests, knitwear, tailored pants, jeans, suits, jackets and coats in all styles (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport).
This book, the second stage in our “Become a pattern drafter”, Children’s garments series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes.Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used which can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs. Manual methods and sizing charts for the models in a children’s wardrobe are explained.
Children’s garments Claire Wargnier
A pattern drafting manual for children’s ready-to-wear clothing that includes details on the overall shape of a child’s body from layette to adolescence, as well as the procedures for development and transformation (volumes, sleeves, collars, details) + 10 added models of garments.
Grading children’s garments Claire Wargnier
21x29,7288 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound45,70 € TTC
21x29,7112 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound29,40 € TTC
21x29,7240 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound45,70 € TTC
21x29,796 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound29,40 € TTC
Women’s garments Tome 2 Collective authorship
This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete women’s wardrobe can be made using this method from pants to “suit-coats”: tailored pants, jeans, warm-up suits, suits, jackets and coats in all styles (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport).
Women’s garments Tome 1 Collective authorship
This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete women’s wardrobe can be made using this method. For garments called “fluid”: skirts, shirts, blouses, small tops, all styles of dresses (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport).
Grading women’s garments Nathalie Coppin
This book, the third stage in our ”Become a pattern drafter / Women’s garments“ series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes.Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used which can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs.21x29,7
240 pagesFrench / EnglishSoft cover / bound45,70 € TTC 21x29,7
112 pagesFrench / EnglishSoft cover / bound29,40 € TTC
21x29,7240 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound39,50 € TTC
Women’s underwear Najah Ouahab Rassas
A complement to patternmaking methods for women’s fashions, this book addresses the entire range of women’s underwear by using flat patternmaking techniques for bras, panties, bodysuits, corsets and bustiers.
21x29,7192 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound45,70 € TTC
4 books showing STEP-BY-STEP details for men’s, women’s and children’s garments.
Essential PATTERNS AND MEASUREMENT CHARTS accompany each page to help you realize all your creations.
FOCUS ON FASHION DETAILS
Tome 1 Claire Wargnier
Generalities for machine assembly, vocabulary and diagrams for all seams, yokes, buttoning plackets and the different assembly procedures for: unlined skirts, lined skirts, women’s and men’s trousers, women’s shirts, men’s shirts, women’s jackets and men’s jackets.
Tome 2 Claire Wargnier
All pockets for all kinds of garments: patch pockets, pockets in a seam, slit pockets for shirts, dresses, tailored jackets, coats, etc.
Tome 3 Claire Wargnier
Everything that you need to know about zippers, fly closures, waistbands, pleats and vents!
Tome 4 Claire Wargnier
All collars, different assembly procedures for sleeves, facings for loose-fitting and tailored garments, including tailored jackets and coats, complete with different kinds of interfacings and linings.
21x29,7192 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound33,40 € TTC
21x29,7208 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound33,40 € TTC
21x29,7192 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound33,40 € TTC
21x29,7240 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound33,40 € TTC
Generalities • Seams • Buttoning tabs Yokes • Assembly procedures
Pockets
Zippers • Flies • Waistbands Pleats and Vents
Collars • Sleeves • Facings Canvas and Linings
THE GRAMMAR OF WESTERN CLOTHING
Wearing the trousers Mireille Tembouret
The second volume of our “Grammar of Western clothing” series. We continue with the rules, codes and characteristics of clothing from the past and the present. Historically linked to the men’s fashion wardrobe, breeches and trousers have, more recently, seduced and become a part of women’s fashion as well. They originally wore them for sport activities but also when they replaced men at their jobs during wartime. Women adopted trousers as a key part of their wardrobe for their practicality and representation of women’s social evolution and even their independence. Breeches, pants for leisure wear and tailored trouser shapes, functions and details followed this direction, establishing a timeless wardrobe and defining a rich language that is often forgotten today.In this second book, breeches and trousers deliver their secrets to illustrate this social evolution since today, both men AND women are… Wearing the trousers!
Keep your shirt on! Mireille Tembouret
Give the shirt off your back, don’t lose your shirt, keep your shirt on, change your shirt, a stuffed shirt... these colloquial expressions show that, over the years, the shirt was considered to be a garment intimately linked with everyday living.Worn next to the body but visible, the shirt had two important roles: hygiene and protection for the body and indicating social status.Always accessorized or accompanied by a vest, the shapes, fabrics and details on shirts, blouses and bodices have evolved to become part of a coded wardrobe that defines a rich vocabulary, often forgotten in modern times. This premise is the basis for the third book in our “Grammar of Western clothing“ series that illustrates the rules and characteristics typical of garments from yesterday and today.To read this book, relax and take off your jacket to discover blouses, bodices and vests... but keep your shirt on!
All dressed up Mireille Tembouret
Corsets, panniers, crinolines or bustles are words that no longer have significance today. But at various times throughout the history of clothing, women wore these essential pieces under their dresses and often needed help to put them on. Depending on the fashions of each period, certain parts of the body were highlighted as elements of seduction (a tiny waist, extremely wide hips, an exaggerated bottom,…). Women sought what they believed to be an ideal of perfection while obeying the strict, often extravagant codes of Fashion and social norms.It was the events surrounding World Wars I and II and then the Women’s Liberation Movement of the 1970s that finally introduced dresses which did not restrict the body.But even today, dresses still assert a woman’s femininity. Every woman has at least one precise memory of a dress that marked a key event in her life and was intrinsically associated with her joy of pleasing others!
Cover it up! Mireille Tembouret
The first volume of our ”Grammar of Western clothing” series.Men – and women – have always wrestled with the elements to protect themselves from cold or hot weather and shield against rain or snow. Though they may have wished to flatter their physique for aesthetic purposes, they were obliged to invent and adapt clothes for their everyday circumstances. The shapes, functions and details which appeared over the centuries defined a rich wardrobe, often forgotten in modern times. This ”grammar of Western clothing” gives an overview of the codes and characteristics of typical garments from yesterday and today.In this first volume, we explore the blousons, raincoats, habits, coats and jackets which… Cover us up!
20x28144 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound35 € TTC
20x28128 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound35 € TTC
20x28144 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound35 € TTC
20x28144 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound35 € TTC
KNOW-HOW
Watch the videos
Une année de styles Ioannis Guia
What can I wear today?This book-calendar answers the question, exploring 52 fashion themes throughout the year. Starting with a foundation of 12 timeless basics, combine 60 possible outfits and give them a special flair by pairing them with other pieces or accessories. The result? 365 days of fashion to accompany each woman in different directions so she can develop her own style.
Fashion saga, 170 years of innovations Catherine Örmen
As much a history of manufacturing and ready-to-wear as a family saga, this book recounts the path of tailor Alexis Lavigne, a formidable visionary who cleverly constructed the technical foundations of Fashion. As an innovator, Alexis Lavigne dedicated himself, throughout his life, to analyzing the human body to advance and promote Paris fashion, especially thanks to his inventions which included the tapemeasure and the dress form.By opening his workshop and then transforming it into a school, this humanist launched what would become Paris’ oldest fashion school. Here is the little-known story of a school that was perpetuated, first by his descendants, then by those dedicated to his spirit. 170 years of innovation at the service of Elegance and Well-Being!
The art of tailoring Yukio Kakita
Thanks to his skills inherited from the top Parisian tailors, Yukio Kakita helps comprehend the sensitivity behind the techniques for making a suit. Follow his step-by-step explanations to understand how cuts and shapes, reinforced by the inside structure, can express your desires and take you from ready-to-wear to Luxury Womenswear to Bespoke men’s suits and thus discover … The Art of Tailoring.
The art of draping Nils-Christian Ihlen-Hansen
Thanks to Nils-Christian Ihlen-Hansen’s experience as a renowned pattern-drafter, this book tackles the difficult technique of the draped clothing in the Western culture of fashion.Transparency games and fabrics moving over the body play key roles in this subtle exercise. Draping transforms a garment into a work of art and makes pattern drafting noble through cutting techniques, choices of prestigious fabrics and dexterous manipulations. This exercise in style has always been preferred and used by the top names in fashion.
49videos
on youtube!
with
19x28,5176 pages
French Wire O / Cover with magnets34,90 € TTC
21,5x27160 pages
English Hard cover/boundPartially in canvas39,50 € TTC
22x30,5176 pages
French / EnglishHard cover/bound39,50 € TTC
22x30,5112 pages
French / EnglishHard cover/bound37 € TTC
over 500
referenced
textiles!
+
SketchbookConceived as a memory aid to use during shopping expeditions, this sketchbook of semi-transparent white pages has a fold-out jacket with basic sketches of women’s and men’s silhouettes. Color ranges with names in French and English also give a visual overview with computer reference numbers.
Textile guide Florence Ferrari
Conceived from a user viewpoint with a simple-to-read approach, this book explores technical information on fabrics while keeping in mind the difficult choices a user must make when conceiving his creations.The first part of the book looks at the textile industry (raw materials, spinners, weavers and finishers) without forgetting a lesson in fabric “hand“, a vital skill needed for selecting fabrics; the second part helps consumers learn the vocabulary, properties, qualities and defects of each fabric family: woolens, cottons, silkies, knits and innovative fabrics.Clever tips and technical details are scattered throughout the book to help the reader avoid the traps certain fabrics might hide behind their seductive appeal.
14x2150 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound15,00 € TTC
21x21156 pages
French / EnglishSoft cover / bound32,50 € TTC
Watch the video
ARM FORM
Kapock arm covered with ecru jersey and construction lines. Shoulder tab for adapting it to the dress form. Available in a left or right arm or in pair.
45€ TTC each80€ TTC the pair
The ESMOD form was invented and registered by Alexis Lavigne in 1841, (along with the invention of the supple tape measure). The ESMOD form presently used in our network of schools is a dignified descendent of the dress form offered to Empress Eugenie by Alexis Lavigne.Since 2008, the ESMOD form adheres to the ready-to-wear clothing measurements revised in Europe’s most recent measurements campaign.
Fiberglass form + foams, covered with ecru muslin. Wooden shaft on a metallic tripod.
495 € TTC
Size 36
Size 38
Neckline measurement 35 36
Bust measurement 84 88
Waist measurement 64 68
Full hip measurement 90 94
FORM
Form in expanded polyurethane covered with ecru Jersey. Detachable wood base.108€ TTC
Illustrated by engravings of dress forms invented by Alexis Lavigne since 1841, this supple tapemeasure is an essential tool for all fashion industry professionals.
Half form of a size 38, this nomadic form allows you to research draped shapes using a mini-mum of textiles.
HALF FORM
ESMOD ALUMNI TAPEMEASURE
Waterproof supple tapemeasure 3 colors 150 cm. 7,50 € TTC
FASHION DESIGNPATTERN DRAFTINGFASHION CULTURE
[email protected], rue de Cléry 75002 ParisTél : +33 (0)1 42 33 93 36www.esmod-editions.com