Erosion by Wind and Waves Ch. 16. Wind Deposition when the wind stops, it drops its load.
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Transcript of Erosion by Wind and Waves Ch. 16. Wind Deposition when the wind stops, it drops its load.
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Erosion by Wind and Waves
Ch. 16
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Wind Deposition
when the wind stops, it drops its load
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Dunes: mounds of wind blown sand
•form where soil is dry and unprotected and the wind is strong
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How dunes form: when a barrier slows the speed of the wind, it causes sand to accumulate on the sheltered side, sand accumulates on exposed side, and eventually buries the barrier
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Wind causes saltation, or jumping grains, on the windward side of sand dunes
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windward
crest
slipface
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barchan dune: crescent shaped, open side faces away from wind, common, found in deserts
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parabolic dune: crescent-shaped, open sided faces into the wind
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transverse dune: series of ridges of sand in long, wave-like patterns- form at a right angle to the wind
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longitudinal dune: ridges of sand in long, wave-like patterns- lie parallel to the wind direction
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This Landsat image reveals sand dunes advancing on Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania.
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Alien dunes. NASA's Mars Global Surveyor photographed these sand dunes on Mars
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Shoreline erosion is caused by:
1.waves weathering rock
2. chemical weathering
3. storms
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sea stack: offshore, isolated columns of rock which was once connected to the headland
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sea cliff: high, nearly vertical,steep structure that forms where waves strike directly against the rock
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terraces: a nearly level platform that is found at the base of a sea cliff
•wave-cut: formed when a sea cliff is worn back
•wave-built: forms when eroded material is deposited
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sea cave: large holes found in a sea cliff
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spit: long, narrow deposit of sand connected at one end to the shore
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The formation of a spit by sand movement in response to longshore currents.
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tombolo: deposits that connect an offshore island to the mainland
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sea arch: enlarged sea cave, produced when waves cut through the headland
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beach: a deposit of sand or rock fragments along an ocean shore
•form where amount of fragments moving toward shore is greater than amount moving away
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size and kinds of materials found on beaches vary widely
Boulders more than 256mm
Cobbles 64 to 256 mm
Gravel 2 to 64 mm
Sand .06 to 2 mm
Silt less than 0.06mm
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A close-up view of ordinary sand
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Atlantic Coast
•white sand with quartz and feldspar
•erosion from Appalachian Mountains
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Hawaii
•black/gray sand from basalt
•erosion from dark volcanic igneous rock
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each wave reaching the shore moves individual sand grains forward total action of thousands of waves moves sand a great distance sand piled up on shore producing sloping surface
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berm: raised section at the back of the beach
•results from high tides or large storm waves
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•In winter, large storm waves remove sand from the beach and deposit it offshore
•sandbar: long ridge of sand deposited offshore
•In summer, waves return the sand to the beach
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BEACH
direction of sand drift
LONGSHORE CURRENT
SWASH BACKWASH
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•the direction a wave approaches the shore determines sand grain movement
•swash: motion of water up a beach
•backwash: water that runs back down the beach under the next wave
•strong backwash is called an undertow
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longshore current: movement of water parallel to and near the shore
•transport sand in direction parallel to shore
•may produce a spit or a tombolos
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Processes that Affect Coastlines
1.long term rising and falling of the sea level
2.long term uplifting or sinking of land that borders water
3.wave erosion and deposition
The sea level is now rising at a average rate of about 1mm/yr
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SUBMERGENT COASTLINES
•estuary: bay where freshwater and saltwater mix
•forms when sea level rises and sinks
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EMERGENT COASTLINES
barrier islands: long, narrow offshore ridges of sand many over 100 km long
•lie parallel to the shore about 3 km to 30 km offshore
•lagoon: narrow region of shallow water between barrier islands and shore
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sometimes a hazardous place to live because it is severely eroded by storms
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coral reefs: ridge-like features made from millions of coral skeletons- form around tropical volcanic islands
•fringing reef: coral reef formed around the coast of a volcanic island
•barrier reef: coral reef that forms around the remnant of an island
•atoll: nearly circular coral reef surrounding a shallow lagoon where a volcanic island used to be
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PRESERVING THE COASTLINE
(two things that damage the coastline)
1. recreation, commercial fishing, shipping, industrial and residential development
2. pollution
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