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Transcript of [ernest_w._flick]_cosmetic_and_toiletry_formulatio(bookfi.org).pdf_pdoc
COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORM U LATIONS
Second Edition
Volume 6
by
Ernest W. Flick
NOYES PUBLICATIONS Westwood, New Jersey, U S A . ("PI
Copyright 0 1997 by Ernest W. Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any informa- tion storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099
Printed in the United States ISBN 0-8155-1412-3
Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications 369 Fairview Avenue Westwood, New Jersey 07675
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 6)
Flick, Ernest W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations.
1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations. I. Title. TP983.F55 1989 668l.55 89-39099 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4) ISBN 0-8155-1395-X (v. 5) ISBN 0-8155-1412-3 (v. 6)
To
Ryan Eric Taylor
V
CONTENTS AND SUBJECT INDEX
SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Solid Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Anti Perspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
SECTION 11: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Baby Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Spray-On Detangler for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Baby Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Conditioning Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Baby Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Diaper Rash Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Baby Skin Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Diaper Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 BabyWash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Economy Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Shampoo-Baby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Foam Bath for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
SECTION 111: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 After Bath Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3-Phase Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Bath and Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 BathOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Economy Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Bath & Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Bubble Bath-Children’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Bubble Bath-Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
ix
x Contents and Subject Index
Bubble Bath. Emollient . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Bubble Bath - Economy Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bubble Bath - Moisturizing Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bubble Bath . Premium Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Clear Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Foaming Bath Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Creamy Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Deodorizing Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Economy Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Moisturizing Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Hand and Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Luxury Shower Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Combo Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Mild Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Mild Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Hand Washing Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Moisturizing Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Pearlescent Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Pearlescent Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 After Bath Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Spreading Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Pearlized Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Premium Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Bath Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Rona/Shampoo/Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Pearlized Bath Salts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Shebu Shower Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Shower Gel with Mbaruti Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Shower Gel with Softigen 767 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Shower Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Skin Conditioning Bath Gelee with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Floating Bath-Oil Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Washing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 2 in 1 Shower Gel and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Creamy Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Contents and Subject Index xi
SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Aloe Vera Cream Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Moisture Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Aloe Vera Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Liposome Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Facial Firming Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Biorepair Skin Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Anti-Aging Leave On Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Blusher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Starlight Body Freshener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Body Emulsion, Type O N , with MPC - Milk Peptide
Complex and Calendula Oil CLR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Ceramide Complex CLR (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Eye Gel with Ceramide Complex CLR (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Clear Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Conditioning Skin Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Silky Blush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Cooling Facial Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Cream Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Creamy Lipstick (Summer Mauve) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Petrolatum SticWLip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Enriched Emollient Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Exfoliant Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Exfoliating Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Exfoliant Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Foaming Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Exfoliating Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Extra Light W/O Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Pearlescent Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Eye Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Powder Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Facial Cleanser with Pemulen TR-2 Polymer
Emulsifier and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Gel with MPC-Liposomes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Body Moisturiser with Wild Borage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Lipcare - Emollient Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Medicated Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Lipcare - Lip Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Hand and Body Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
xii Contents and Subject Index
Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lip Salve with Glycyrrhetinic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Salve Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Fix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Lip Care Stick with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Lipstick. Glossy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Lip Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Lipstick “Soft and Moist” (Modified) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Lipstick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Lipstick with A-C 400, No . 162 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Luxurious Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Makeup Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Lash-Conditioning Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Make-up Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 AHA Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Mascara Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Medicated Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Lip Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Men’s Active Wrinkle Smoother . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Skin Tightening Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Moisturizing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Moisturizing Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 MPC - Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Anti-Cellulite Emulsion, Type O N with
MPC - Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Night Cream Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Skin Nutrient Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Nonionic Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Oil Free Make-up with Hypan SR15OH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Oil Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Oil Moisturizer with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 ON-Skin Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Petroleum OiVPetroleum Wax Free Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Lip Gloss with Sun Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Pressed Powder Blush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Purified Bentonite Refining Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Silky Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Contents and Subject Index xiii
Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Silky Smooth Emollient Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Topical Spray Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Hydroalcoholic Fragranced Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Vitamin F Skin Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Body Smoother . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Waterproof Special Effects Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 W/O Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 W/O Moisturizing Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Skin Care Oil with Citric Acid Ester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 W/O Sheer Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
SECTION V:CFCEAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 AEC Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 AHA Renewal Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Glycerin Cream with Citric Acid Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Liposome Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Washable Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 AEC Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p05 Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Basic-Cream with AHA-Esters, Food Approved . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Eye Wrinkle Cream with UV Absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Bleaching Night Cream Against Age Spots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Cleansing Cold Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Cream Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Cream, Type O/W, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . 112 Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . 112 Day Cream with Evening Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Basic O/W Cream, with Citric Acid Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Aloe Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Emollient Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Enriched W/O Cream with Vitamin E Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
xiv Contents and Subject Index
Eye Contour Cream. Type W/O. with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Gentle Night Repair Cream Water in Oil Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Soft Cream
with AH-Acids ( O N ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 W/O Cream with 17% Pigments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Light Skin-Feel Cleansing Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Moisturizer O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Moisturizing Cream w/Tritisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Makeup Remover Cleansing Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Moisturizing Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1125 Moisturizing Day Cream (Sericin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Moisturizing Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Multi Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Neck Firming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Night Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Night Time Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Nighttime Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Under Make-up Cream for Normal Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Oil-Free Exfoliating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 O/W-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Phytodermin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 O W Basic Cream, Without Paraffin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1139 Protective Cream with Cromoist CM Glucan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Rain Forest Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Rejuvenating AHA Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Skin Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Skin Lightening Night Cream Against Age Spots . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Cleansing Cream with Salicylic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Moisturizing Cream with MPC . Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . 118
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Skin Rejuvenating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Skin Therapy Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Cream. Type O N . with Protectan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Ultra Skin Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 W/O Basic Cream for Dry Skin. with Evening
Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Peeling Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 W/O Cream with Almond Oil and Shea Butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Soft W/O Cream with Softisan 649 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 W/O-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Chamomile Glycerin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Acudyne 255 55% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray. Low VOC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Acudyne 255 55% VOC Extra Hold Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . 154
154
Aqueous Conditioning and Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Acudyne 255 0% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aerosol Styling Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Hairspritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Alcohol-Free Firm Holding Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Alcohol-Free Non-Aerosol Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Super Hold Pump Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Alcohol-Free Ringing Gel with Hold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Cream Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Brush-On Hair Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Creme-in Hair Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 California Dream Hairspray - 55% VOC - 5% Solids . . . . . . . . . 162 Non-Alcohol Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Clear Hair Rinse Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Pearlescent Cream Rinse Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Concentrated Hair Repair with UV Protection . . ~ . ~ ~ ~ ~ . . ~ ~ ~ . I 164 Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Conditioner for Dry Brittle Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Conditioning Perm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Scalp and Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Conditioning Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Thermal Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Cream Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Conditioning Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
157
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Cream Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hair Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Cream Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
and Permed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Jojoba Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Detangling Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Easy Spreading Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Gantrez Hair Spray with Cyclomethicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Acudyne 255 Spray Gel Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 De-Frizzing Creme-Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Firm Holding Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Spray Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Glossing Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Acidic Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Hair Conditioner with DLL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Hair Conditioner with DLL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Hair Cream Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Hair Repair and Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Conditioning Hair Rinse for Oily Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Hair Shaping Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Conditioning, Setting Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Styling Cream (for dried hair) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Resyn Hair Spray with Dimethicone Copolyol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Hair Shine Concentrated Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 High Performance 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . 189 Ultra-Hold Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO 190 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Modern Expression Hair Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Spiking Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Non-Aerosol Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $92 Replenishing Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Pelan Hair Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Creme Rinse Conditioner for Color-Treated
Elegant Touch Strong Hold, 80% VOC Hair Spray . ~ . . I . ~ . . ~ 176
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Contents and Subject Index xvii
Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Premium Biodegradable Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hair Shine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Flexible Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Salon Type Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump Spray Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Soft Set Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 StylingIConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Strong Advantage Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Shape W Style Volumizing Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Vision '98 55% VOC Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vision '98 Pump Hairspray - 55% VOC - 6% Solids . . . . . . . . . . Forever Curls Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Pump Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 W/O Hair Sculpturing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Spray Detangler/Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Acudyne 255 55% HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 80% VOC Single Phase Hydrocarbon Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . 205 55% VOC Innovative Product Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Aerosol Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 80% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 55% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
195
197
200 201 201
SECTION VII: LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 AHA Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Anti-Aging Day Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Cationic Lotion with Incroquat Behenyl TMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Body Lotion for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Botanical Facial Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Cationic Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Body Lotion: Water in Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Cromoist CM-Glucan Lotion with Crodafos CES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Dihydroxyacetone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Isolan DO Lotion O/W Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Cocoa Butter Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
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Depilatory Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Dry Touch Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Rehydrating Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Light Conditioning Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 High SPF-30 Lotion Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Acid Phytosome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Collagen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Silicone Barrier Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 O N Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Aculyn 33 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Pearlized Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Protective Lotion with Cromoist CM Glucan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Rain Forest Lotion with Cronatural Brazil Nut Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Dihydroxyacetone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Skin Firming Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Facial Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Therapeutic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Under Make-up Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Water-in-Oil Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Facial Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 W/O Lotion, EO-free with Softisan 649 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 New "Light Lotion" with Imwitor 375 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 2% AHA Viscosity Lotion with Uninontan U-34 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
Low pH Glycolic Acid Lotion with 18-B Glycyrrhetinic
SECTION VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Suspending Sulfur
with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Children's Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Moisturizing Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Clear Shampoo with Microcapsules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 All Natural Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Conditioning Color Enhancer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
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Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Clear. Colorless Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Deodorizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 255
Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Noma1 Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Opaque Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Ultra Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Basic Shampoo Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo with Amilan GST 40 . . . ~ . . 263 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Pearl Pigment Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Shampoo-All Purpose for Normal Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Shampoo-All Purpose for Oily Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Shampoo-Inexpensive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Shampoo-Clear Liquid Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo - All Purpose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo - Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo - Clear Viscous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Shampoo-Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Shampoo-Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Shampoo Clear Liquid Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Shampoo-Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Shampoo -Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27P Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Shampoo with Silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Gentle Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Temporary Color-In Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Shampoo-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Shampoo with Silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Mild Deep Cleaning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Moisture Therapy Shampoo with Hydrotriticum WAA . . . . . . . . . .
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Transparent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 All Purpose Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Water White Shampoo from a Blend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Premium Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 3 in 1 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277
SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Brushless Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Non-Foaming Shaving Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 After Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Low Alcohol Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
SECTION X: SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Anti-Bacterial Handsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Baby Mild Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Hand Cleaners-Anti-Bacterial Handsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Waterless Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Hand Cleaner, Heavy Duty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Hand Cleaner. Liquid, Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Hand Cleaners-Liquid Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Liquid Dispenser Type: Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Hand Cleaners-Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Liquid. Soap. Antiseptic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Hand Cleaner. Liquid, Soap Antiseptic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Handsoap-Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Hand Cleaners-Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Hand Cleaner. Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Hand Cleaners-Handsoap-Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Heavy Duty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Hand Cleaner, Waterless. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Hand Cleaners-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Hand Cleaner-Liquid. Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
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Hot Pour Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Hand Cleaning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Lotion Hand Cleaner (With Abrasive) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Mild Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Mild Pearlized Hand Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Pearled Gel Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Opaque Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Transparent Toilet Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Soap Bar for Hard Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Waterless Hand Cleaner with Abrasive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
299
SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 After Sun Cream with Aloe Vera and Evening Primrose . . . . . . . . 307 W/O Sun Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Light After Sun Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 AfterSunMilk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 W/O-Sun Screen Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3710 Insect Repellent Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31B Light After Sun Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Oil Free Skin Bronzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 OW-Sun Blocker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Aculyn 33 Sun Screen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 OW-Sun Screen Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 OW-Sun Blocker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 O W Sun Screen with Organic and Inorganic Screens . . . . . . . . . . 316 O W Sun Protection Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Pre-Sun Moisture Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Oil in Water Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Self Tanning DHA Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Skin Protecting Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Solar Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Ti02 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Sprayable Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Waterproof Aerosol Sunscreen (SPF 10) . . ~ . a . ~ . ~ a . . ~ . . 3211 Sunblock Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
xxii Contents and Subject Index
Sunblock with Ti02 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Sunless Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Tanning Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Sunscreen Cream SPF 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Sunscreen Cream SPF 12+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
326 Sunscreen Emulsion with Titanium Dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Sunscreen Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Lip Care Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Sunscreen Milk W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Sunscreen Milk W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Sunscreen Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Sunscreen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Aloe After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Sun Tan Oil-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Sun Tan Oil-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Sun Tan Oil-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Wash-Off Resistant Sunscreen Lotion
with Crodafos CES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Water-In-Oil Sunscreen SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Waterproof SPF 30 Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Using
Pemulen TR-1 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 SPF 12 Sunscreen Liposome Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Water-Resistant Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Sunscreen Lotion Using Micronized Ti02 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream (PABNOxybenzone
Free) Estimated SPF=20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342
Sunscreen Cream with UVA Protection (Est . SPF=25) . . . . . . . . . .
SECTION XU: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Fluoride Dentifrice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Gum-Massage-Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Glycerol Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 Aculyn 33 Fluid Gel Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 Oil Liposome Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Ritavena 5 (l.O%)/Acritamer 934 (1.0%) Blend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
Contents and Subject Index xxiii
Gel Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
SECTION WII: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS . . I . . . ~ ~ , ~ 348
SECTION XIV: SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES * . . , . . . . . . . . . . ~ . . 394
Section I Antiperspirants and
Deodorants
1
2 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solid Antiperspirant
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages:
Hexaned io l Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i 1 i c o n e o i 1 , p r o d u c i n g an opaque s t i c k wh ich i s creamy and sp reads e v e n l y .
I l l u s t r a t e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f
Formula: Hexaned io l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) K e s t e r Wax 82 ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( P & G ) Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e (Rehe is )
Wt% 12 .0
6 . 0 8 . 0
3 6 . 0 1 8 . 0 20 .0
P rocedure :
a t 5 5 ~ .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
d e o d o r a n t / a n t i p e r s p i r a n t . F rag rances a r e e a s i l y added.
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
M e l t and homogenize a t 75C, c o o l and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r
I r g a s o n DP-300 can be added t o change t h i s p r o d u c t t o a
Anti Perspirant Stick
I n Q r e d i e n t : V o l a t i l e S i 1 i c o n e S t e a r y l A l c o h o l O i l s of A loha Kukui Nu t O i l A r l a c e l 165 S i l i c a Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e
WtO/o 44 I 50 2 3 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 2.00 0 . 5 0
2 5 . 0 0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P rocedure : Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s a t 75C.
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l i s t h e h a r d e n i n g agen t t h a t make t h e s t i c k . The S i l i c a s e r v e s as a s t a b i l i z e r and t h e Oils o f A l o h a
Kukui Nu t o i 1 s e r v e s two f u n c t i o n s - r e d u c e s t a c k i n e s s and reduces w h i t e n i n g on t h e s k i n .
SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Section II Baby Products
3
4 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Conditioner (Formula 86-0404M)
Rhodaquat D261C/75 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF A1 kamul s PSML-80 C e l l o s i z e QP 52,000 H C i t r i c Ac id F rag rance , D y e ( s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
% by Weight 2 . 2 0 1 . 7 0 0 . 1 5 1 . 7 0
0.10 94 .15
Q.S . t o p H 3 . 5 - 4 . 5
B l e n d i n g P rocedure :
ous a g i t a t i o n , l i g h t l y s i f t C e l l o s i z e QP 52,000H i n t o w a t e r . With smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o n t i n u e t o h e a t system t o 70-75C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d Rhodaquat D261C/75, C e t y l A l c o h o l NF, and A lkamu ls PSML-80 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r system. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , cool system t o 40C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v - a t i v e .
D i s s o l v e C i t r i c Ac id i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 30-35C. W i t h v i g o r -
T y p i c a l Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance @ 25C: V i s c o u s , Opaque L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y f3 25C: 16,000+ cps (No, 4 s p i n d l e (3 10 RPM)
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 5-6 pH: 3 .5 -4 .5
Spray-On Detangler for Children(Formula 88-708M)
Rhodaquat D261 C/75 S i l i c o n e 344 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) C i t r i c Ac id F rag rance , Dye(s) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
% by Wei a h t 1 . o 0 . 5 Q .S . Q.S.
9 8 . 5
B l e n d i n g P rocedure : Heat w a t e r t o 70C. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y
b l e n d i n Rhodaquat D261C/75 and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , cool system t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n S i l i c o n e 344 F l u i d . Once system i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c Ac id as needed and add c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e .
Use D i r e c t i o n s : Dispense v i a pump o r a e r o s o l s p r a y .
T y p i c a l Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i es : Appearance fJ 25C: T h i n L i q u i d pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Pe rsona l Care
Baby Products 5
Baby Cream
Formula: A : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l S t e a r a t e S t e a r i c A c i d C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A1 coho1 L a n o l i n O i 1 C e t y l A l c o h o l P r o p y l p a r a b e n B: Tech-0 11-070 S t e r - 0 - P r o (Beacon CMP) C : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (85%) Me thy lpa raben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea
% by Weight
9 - 0 0 2 . 0 0 8 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 - 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 .10
2 . 0 0
1 . 5 0 0 . 9 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 2 0
P rocedure : Weigh A and h e a t w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 75C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r
we igh B and m i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add C and h e a t t o 75C w i t h s t i r r i n g . W i t h b o t h phases a t 75C add B t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n , m ix 10 m i n u t e s a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e , t h e n c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Conditioning Baby Lotion
Formu la : A : C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A l c o h o l P ropy lpa raben S i l i c o n e 220 F l u i d Tech-0 11-075 C o n c e n t r a t e d Oat P r o t e i n B: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Methy lpa raben DMDM H y d a n t o i n P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l
% by Weight
1 0 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 0 . 1 5 4 . 0 0
(Beacon CMP) 2 - 0 0
71 .OO 3 . 0 0 0 . 1 5 0 . 2 0 3 . 0 0
P rocedure :
b e a k e r , weigh B and h e a t t o 75C. W i t h b o t h phases a t 75C, add A t o B and m i x w e l l f o r 10 m i n u t e s , t h e n mix and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
I n t o a beaker , weigh A . Heat w i t h m i x i n g t o 75C. I n a n o t h e r
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
6 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Lotion
Stage M a t e r i a1 : Oil Phase: 1 AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 2 D e r v a c i d 3155 3 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 4 Lasemul 92 AE 5 L i p o v o l PAL
Aqueous Phase: 6 Water; Pure 7 Xanthan Gum 8 G l y c e r i n e 0P 9 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%
P r e s e r v a t i v e M i x : 10 N i p a s t a t 11 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP
Cool i ng C y c l e : 12 P. Cocoa b u t t e r AA 6780 13 C . S . D&C Red 33; 1% S o l n
Q u a n t i t y
2 . ooog 3 . OOOg 1 .ooog 2 .5009 3 . OOOg
81 .095g 0 .350g 1 .ooog 0.7009
0,2509 5 . OOOg
0.1009 0 .0059
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
h e a t t o 70/75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . Meter o u t t h e w a t e r i n t o t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l and s t a r t h e a t i n g .
m i x i ng .
mix b r i e f l y w i t h t h e S i l v e r s o n t o smooth t h e m i x t u r e . Remember t o p r e m i x t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l & N i p a s t a t t o a i d s o l u b i l i t y .
Add t h e O i l s t o t h e w a t e r w i t h c a r e f u l S i l v e r s o n m i x i n g and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . When c o o l a d j u s t pH, add perfume, mach c o l o u r t o Master Sample and g i v e a f i n a l b r i e f m ix w i t h t h e S i l v e r s o n .
pH : 7 .20-8 .00 V i s c o s i t y 3 / 1 2 r : 45-65 SG: 0 .985-0.995 P r o j e c t : J W 2434/Formula R e f . : 974*0
Weigh t h e i t e m s o f t h e O i l Phase i n t o a j a c k e t e d v e s s e l and
D i s p e r s e t h e Xanthan Gum and h e a t t o 70/75C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s
Add t h e o t h e r i t e m s o f t h e Aqueous Phase w h i l e h e a t i n g and
Baby Oil
Stage M a t e r i a1 : 1 L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l 2 AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 3 L i p o v o l PAL 4 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (IPM)
P r o j e c t : JW 2434/Formula: 975*0
SOURCE: A & E Connock Ltd.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Q u a n t i t y 80 . OOOg 10, ooog
5 . OOOg 5 . OOOg
Baby Products 7
Baby Shampoo
% b y Weinht S t e o l CS-130 30 .0 Amphosol CA 2 0 . 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 5 . 0 Kessco PEG 6000 DS 2 . 0 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) Q.S. Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q . S . Sodi um C h l o r i d e Q.S. D . I . Water Q . S . t o 100 .0 M i x i n g P rocedure :
Heat t o 60C and m i x u n t i l t h e PEG 6000 DS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s - p e r s e d , Add t h e P o l y s o r b a t e 20 and Amphosol C A . B l e n d w e l l and c o o l t o 30C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
Add t h e S t e o l CS-130 and Kessco PEG 6000 DS t o D.I. Water .
Baby Shampoo
YO b y Weight Stepan-Mi 1 d SL3 1 9 . 0 S t e o l CS-330 1 7 . 5 Amphosol CG 1 6 . 5 Kessco PEG 6000 DS 2 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Q.S. Fragrance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q . S . Sodium C h l o r i d e Q . S . D . I. Water Q . S . t o 100 .0 M i x i n g P rocedure :
h e a t t o 50-6OC. Add PEG 6000 DS and m i x u n t i l a l l s o l i d s have m e l t e d . Cool t o 35C and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h s o d i um c h l o r i d e .
Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o D.I. Water w i t h m i x i n g and
Baby Shampoo
YO b y Weight SteDan-Mi ld BSB* 4 0 . 0 D i s t i 11 ed Water Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e Q . S . t o 1 0 0 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Q . S . F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. M i x i ng Procedure :
Combine f i r s t two i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d pH ( 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 ) w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e m i x i n g .
SOURCE: Stepan C o n : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Shampoo (Formula 91-1004)
Mi racare MS-1 Fragrance and Dye(s) Benzyl A1 coho1 Dowicil 200 (Dow) Citric Acid Water
Blending Procedure: Charge water into mixing vessel and s
MS-1. Mix unti 1 completely uniform. With slowly blend in compatible Fragrance and uniform. Slowly blend in Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid as needed to adjust formulat
Typical Properties: Appearance @ 25C: Clear Liquid % Non-Volatiles: 19-21
Viscosity @ 25C: 800-2,000 cps pH: 6.8-7.2
CTFA Identification: Water, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate,
Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, PEG- Hydroxysul tai ne, Sodi um Laureth-13 Fragrance, Benzyl Alcohol, Quatern
9b by Weight 50.00
0.15 0.15
49.70
Q.S.
Q . S . to pH 6.8-7.2
owly blend in Mi racare smooth agitation, Dye(s). Mix until Dowicil 200, and on pH to 6.8-7.2.
Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, 50 Di stearate, Cocami dopropyl Carboxylate, Citric Acid, urn-15, Dye(s).
Note: While the suggested Miracare MS-1 Baby Shampoo has been proven to be essentially non-irritating to the eyes, the addition of untested Fragrances, Dyes, and other additives can adversely affect the irritation potential of the resulting formula.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc Surfactants & Specialties: Formulation for Personal Care: Formula 91-1004
Baby Products 9
Baby Shampoo (Formula 91-1003)
M i r a c a r e BC-10 F rag rance and Dye(s) D o w i c i l 200 (Dow) C i t r i c A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
% by Weight 3 8 . 5
Q . S . Q.S.
Q.S. t o p H 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 0 . 5 - 1 . 5
6 0 . 0
B1 end i n g P rocedure :
BC-10. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance , Dye(s ) and D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t t h e p H o f t h e system t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. A d j u s t form- u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-2,000 c p s w i t h i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed.
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e
Appearance @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d % Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-18
V i s c o s i t y I3 25C: 1,200-2,000 cps pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 5
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water , PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e , Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ,
Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Lau roamphog lyc ina te , PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e , Sodium Laure th -13 C a r b o x y l a t e , F rag rance , C i t r i c Acid, Quatern ium-15, T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, D y e ( s ) .
No te : W h i l e t h e suggested M i r a c a r e BC-10 Baby Shampoo has been p r o v e n t o be e s s e n t i a l l y n o n - i r r i t a t i n g t o t h e eyes, t h e a d d i t i o n o f u n t e s t e d F rag rances , Dyes and o t h e r a d d i t i v e s can a d v e r s e l y a f f e c t t h e i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l o f t h e r e s u l t i n g f o r mu 1 a . SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n
f o r Pe rsona l Care
Diaper Rash Lotion
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r e t h - 2 0 D ime th i cone PPG-2 m y r i s t y 1 e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e C a r n a t i o n S t e a r i c a c i d A l o e v e r a P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l (and ) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and )
p r o p y l p a r a b e n Sodi um c i t r a t e Nonoxynyl h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Water
% b y Weight 8 . 0 0
20 .00 5 . 0 0 4 . 0 0
10 .00 1 . o o
1 . o o 3 . 0 0
q . s . 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
10 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Skin Wash
U r e d i e n t s : Water T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E.O.) Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O lea te /Cocoa te ( A n t i 1 171) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o D ime th i cone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 8852) P r e s e r v a t i v e s Col or Fragrance L a u r y l G1 u c o s i de (and) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Tego
Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n ) G l u c o s i d L 5 5 )
Wei q h t % 52 .40
0 . 1 0 18 .00 1 5 . 0 0
1 . 7 5
0 . 2 5 pH 6 . 5
Q . S . Q . S . Q.S.
12 .50 Q . S .
Procedure : 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 40-5OC. 2 . Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r - m i x i ng we1 1 between add i t i ons I
3 . A d j u s t p H and v i s c o s i t y .
Diaper CreamCream (W/O Emulsion)
I n q r e d i en>; Phase A : C e t y l D ime th i cone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90) P e t r o l a t u m D i me th i cone ( 5 0 0 c s ) C e t y l D ime th i cone ( A b i 1 Wax 9801 ) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S ) M i n e r a l O i l P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an GI -34) Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l S y n t h e t i c Wax
Phase B: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i ves
Phase C: F rag rance
Weight%
2 . 0 4 . 5 3 . 0 1 . 5 5 . 0 4 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 8 1 . 2
7 6 . 9 0 . 6 Q . S .
Q . S .
Procedure : 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A , Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy
3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogeni z e ,
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp . : Suggested Formul a t i ons
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C.
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
Baby Products 11
Baby Wash (Formula 91-1113)
T h i s u l t r a - m i l d s k i n c l e a n s e r f o r m u l a i s i d e a l l y s u i t e d f o r b a b i e s , c h i l d r e n and anyone w i t h s e n s i t i v e s k i n . I t g e n t l y c l e a n s t h e s k i n and i m p a r t s an e l e g a n t , s o f t a f t e r f e e l . I t can a l s o be used as a m i l d b u b b l e b a t h t h a t i s s a f e f o r c h i l d r e n .
M i r a n o l BT Geropon SBFA-30 Jaguar C-162 C i t r i c A c i d F rag rance , D y e ( s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
% BY Weight 2 5 . 0 1 0 . 0 0 . 3 Q.S. Q.S.
6 4 . 7
81 e n d i n g P rocedure :
smooth a g i t a t i o n , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 5-6 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n M i r a n o l BT and Geropon SBFA-30. M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 6-7 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed and add c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance , Dye(s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e .
T y p i c a l Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i es :
W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , d i s p e r s e Jaguar C-162 i n w a t e r . W i t h
Appearance @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 50-300 cps
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 13-14 pH: 6-7
Foam Bath for Children (Formula 87-0508R)
Rhodapex ES
C e l l o s i z e QP 30,000 H C i t r i c A c i d Versene 100 (Dow) F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
Geropon SBFA-30
% by Weight 6 . 2
1 4 . 5 1 . 2
Q S t o p H 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 0 . 1 QS
7 8 . 0
B l e n d i n g P rocedure : Warm w a t e r t o 50-55C and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapex ES. W i t h
r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t C e l l o s i z e QP 30,000 H i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n and add Geropon SBFA-30 and Versene 100. A d j u s t pH o f system t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed and t h e n add c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance , Dye, and P r e s e r v a t i v e .
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Pe rsona l Care
12 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Economy Baby Lotion (Formula 87-0901M)
Water Phase: % by Weight A ) Methy lpa raben 0 .15
P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2 .50 B) D . I . Water 90 .97 C) Carbopol 934 ( G o o d r i c h ) 0 . 1 5 D) Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50% Aq. S o l u t i o n ) 0 . 1 3
O i l Phase: Derma lca re N I A1 kamul s MM/M A lkamu ls GMS S t e a r i c A c i d TP P r o p y l p a r a b e n
1 . 5 0 1 . 5 0 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 0 .10
B1 e n d i ng P rocedure : Water Phase: A ) D i s p e r s e Me thy lpa raben i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . W i t h m i x i n g , hea t
system u n t i 1 M e t h y l paraben has c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d i n P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l .
B) S l o w l y b l e n d P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l m ix i n t o D e i o n i z e d Water . Heat w a t e r system t o 45-5OC.
C ) W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y d i s p e r s e Carbopol 934 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r base . C o n t i n u e t o h e a t system t o 75-8OC.
D ) S l o w l y b l e n d Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r base. The system s h o u l d i m m e d i a t e l y t h i c k e n and c l e a r .
Oil Phase:
w i t h g e n t l e h e a t , warm O i l Phase t o 70-75C ( a v o i d s c o r c h i n g ) . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d h e a t e d O i l Phase i n t o h e a t e d Water Phase. Once system i s u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40-45C w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance and D y e ( s ) .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l combine O i l Phase i n g r e d i e n t s and,
Appearance ( a f t e r s t a n d i n g 72 h r s . ) : V i scous , Smooth L o t i o n pH (10% A q . ) : 6 . 5 - 7 . 5
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i on :
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and Ce tea re th -20 , G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e , Carbomer 934, Me thy lpa raben , P ropy lpa raben , F rag rance , Dyes.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n
Water, P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , Sodium S t e a r a t e , M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e ,
f o r Pe rsona l Care : F o r m u l a t i o n 87-0901M
Baby Products 13
Shampoo-Baby
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Water Cocoamphohydroxy Su l t a i ne Cal foam ES-303
P a r t B: PEG-60 A1 mond G1 y c e r i de PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e
Weight96
51.30 1 2 . 0 0 2 0 . 0 0
P a r t C : Germaben 11, F rag rance
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . F i r s t m ix p a r t A u n t i 1 c l e a r . 2 . M e l t PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e and t h e n m i x w i t h PEG-150
P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e a t abou t 50C. 3 . Add p a r t B i n t o p a r t A and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed. 5 . A d j u s t pH i f needed.
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-015-01
15 .00 0 . 5 0
9 . 5 0
Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% Amphol y t J B 130K (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne ) 15.00 M a r l i n a t CM 100/80 ( L a u r e t h - 1 1 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 1 5 . 0 0 S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) 5 . 0 0 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01 e a t e ) 3 .00
O l i v e O i l 1 . o o A n t i 1 141 L i q u i d ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and ) PEG-55
P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 01 e a t e ) 4 . 0 0 P r e s e r v a t i ve 9 , s . F r a g r a n c e 9 , s . Water up t o 100.00
P r e p a r a t i on :
and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous.
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n 3 .5E
A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed t o g e t h e r , h e a t e d t o 40 degrees C . ,
Section IIIBath and Shower Products
14
Bath and Shower Products I 5
After Bath Moisturizing Lotion
A m i l d , smooth, w h i t e l o t i o n t h a t b o o s t s c o n t r a c t i o n and r e o r g a n i z a t i o n o f c o l l a g e n f i b e r s w i t h R a f f e r m i n e t o r e i n f o r c e f i r m n e s s and e l a s t i c i t y o f t h e s k i n .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 3 . Me thy lpa raben 4. A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer) 5 . R i t a p r o 300 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ) 6 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 7 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 8 . S t e a r i c A c i d 9 . P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1O.NaOH (50% S o l u t i o n ) 11 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r )
%w/w 8 8 . 9 7
2 . 5 0 0 . 1 5 0 . 1 5 1 . 5 0 1 . 5 0 1 - 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 3 2 . 0 0
Compoundi ng Procedure : Combine i t e m s 1-3 and b e g i n m i x i n g . S l o w l y add i t e m 4 w h i l e
m i x i n g . Heat t o 75C. Combine i t e m s 5-9 and h e a t t o 75C. Add i t e m 10 t o w a t e r . Add o i l t o wa te r w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m 11 .
R e f . No. 120-208A
3-Phase Bath Oil
An a p p e a l i n g t r i - l a y e r b a t h o i l wh ich m o i s t u r i z e s t h e s k i n and c o n t a i n s S imch in f o r a l u x u r i o u s f e e l ,
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 7NF 2 . S imch in N a t u r a l ( J o j o b a O i l ) 3 . D i e t h y l p h t h a l a t e 4 . Fragrance- "B lue M i n t " 5 . Me thy lpa raben 6 . G l y c e r i n e 7 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 . NaCl 9 . G l y d a n t
%w/w 2 6 . 4 0
6 . 6 0 32 .00
1 . o o q . s
2 2 . 6 7 9 . 0 7 2 . 2 6
Q . S
Compounding P rocedure :
f r a g r a n c e i n d i e t h y l p h t h a l a t e . D i s s o l ve NaCl and G1 y d a n t i n w a t e r and m i x w i t h g l y c e r i n e . M i x a l l t h r e e phases t o g e t h e r .
D i s s o l v e S i mchi n i n m i n e r a l o i 1 , D i s s o l v e me thy lpa raben and
R e f . No. 121-102
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
16 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bath and Body Wash
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal foam ES-303 Sodium C h l o r i d e Water Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide C Decyl Po l y g l ucose
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-002-01
Bath and Shower Gel
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal foam ES-302 Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide F S a l t Water ( F r a g r a n c e , Dye, C i t r i c A c i d )
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : V i s c o s i t y i s 90,000 CPS. T o t a l s o l i d s 16.25% F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-003-01
Bath and Shower Gel
I n n r e d i e n t s : C a l B l e n d Gel Sodium C h l o r i d e Water F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e t o t h i c k e n t h e f o r m u l a t i o n . T h i c k e n s t o 90,000 C P S . F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-004-01
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemi c a l Co. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Wei qht90 60 .10
1 . 1 0 5 . 3 0 5 .00 8 . 8 0
19.70
Wei q h t % 42.70
4 .05 2 .55 0 .75
49 .95
Weight% 50
1 . o - 2 . 0 Q.S. 0 . 5
Bath and Shower Products 17
Bath Oil
Phase : A A A A A A A A A
I n n r e d i e n t : Cyc lometh i cone Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e M i n e r a l O i l C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate F rag rance O i l s o f A loha K u i k u i Nut O i l O i l s o f A loha Macadamia Nut O i l V i t a m i n E A l o e O i l
Wt% 1 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
48 .80 1 5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 . 2 0 1 . 0 0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P rocedure : Phase A: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .
A f l o a t i n g b a t h o i l t h a t f o l l o w s you o u t o f t h e t u b and keeps you f e e l i n g s i l k y . The O i l s o f A loha Macadamia and Kukui Nut O i l c o u n t e r a c t s t h e e x c e s s i v e h y d r a t i o n f r o m t h e b a t h . The h i g h l e v e l o f f r a g r a n c e g i v e s a n i c e bouque t .
SOURCE: O i 1s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Bath and Shower Gel
& L a u r e t h - 7 Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (Phoenate SLES-70) Cocami de DEA (Phoenami d CD) D i sod i um L a u r e t h Su l f o s u c c i n a t e S i l i c o n e Quatern ium-5 ( P e c o s i l SMQ-40) Dei o n i zed Water D i sod i um EDTA
- B: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (and ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and )
Me thy lpa raben (and ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n
C o l o r F rag rance
5 4 . 0 0
50 .00 6 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 5 . 0 0
31 - 4 8 0 . 0 2
1 . 0 0
9 , s . q . s .
Procedure : Add Phase A i t e m s i n o r d e r w i t h s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . Heat
i f necessa ry t o a f f e c t d e a e r a t i o n . When Phase A i s be low 45C, add Phase B w i t h s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemica l , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
18 Cosmetic and Toiletv Formulations
Body Shampoo (Formula 92-0214)
A1 kamide DC 212/S Geropon TC-42 A lkamu ls 6000 DS Water C i t r i c A c i d F rag rance , d y e ( s ) , p r e s e r v a t i v e
% b y Weinht 6 .0
1 5 . 0 0 . 5 Q . S . Q . S . Q . S .
B1 end i n g P rocedure : Charge t a n k w i t h w a t e r , A l kamide DC 212/S, Geropon TC-42
and A lkamu ls 6000 DS, and m ix w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 65C. Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 b y a d d i t i o n o f c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e ( s ) and p r e s e r v a t i v e . T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s :
Appearance @ 25C: C l e a r , s l i g h t l y v i s c o u s l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 1,000-1,500 cps p H : 7 . 5 S o l i d s : 11-11 - 5 %
Water , Cocami de DEA, Sodi u m M e t h y l Cocoyl T a u r a t e , PEG-1 50 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i on :
D i s t e a r a t e , C i t r i c A c i d .
Economy Bubble Bath (Formula 91-1008)
M i r a c a r e MPC C i t r i c Ac id ( t o pH 5 .5 -6 .5 ) F rag rance , D y e ( s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
% by Weight 2 0 . 0
Q . S . Q.S.
1 . o - 2 . 0 78 .5
B1 end i ng P rocedure :
MPC. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. Add c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance , Dye(s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d c o n s i s t e n c y w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed. T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i on P r o p e r t i e s :
Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e
Appearance @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3,000-4,000 cps
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 8-10
Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Sodium C h l o r i d e ,
pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 5
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i on :
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, D y e ( s > .
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Pe rsona l Care
Bath and Shower Products 19
Bath & Shower Gel
- _ _ _ I n g r e d i en= Cal B1 end C1 e a r F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
%Wt. 5 0 . 0 0
Q . S 0 . 1 - 0 . 7
4 9 . 6
Comments About t h i s Fo rmu la : B1 endi n g Procedure :
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i 1 u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1 5 , 0 0 9 - 2 0 , 0 0 0 c p s (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10rpm) w i t h t h e i nc remen ta ! a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed I
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance: C l e a r , V i scous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 2 5 C : 1 5 , 0 0 0 - 2 0 , 0 0 0 cps
96 Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-19 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water , Sodi um L a u r e t h Sul f a t e , Cocami de
pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
DEA, Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Sodi urn C h l o r i d e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s )
F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-001 - 0 1
Bath & Shower Gel
__ I n g r e d i e n t s : - -~ Cal foam ES-302 Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide F S a l t Water ( F r a g r a n c e , Dye, C i t r i c A c i d )
Comments About t h i s Formula: V i s c o s i t y i s 90,000 cPs. T o t a l s o l i d s 16.25% F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-003-01
Bath & Shower Gel
Sodium C h l o r i d e Water F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e
".UL.. 4 2 - 7 0
4 . 0 5 2 , 5 5 0 . 7 5
49 * 95
1 .0-2.@ 9 . 5 9 . 5
Comments About t h i s Formula: Add t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e t o t o t h i c k e n t h e f o r m u l a t i o n T h i c k e n s t o 9 0 , 0 0 0 cPs. F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-004-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Fo rmu la ry
20 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath-Children's
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam ES-303 C a l s o f t T-60 Calamide C C i t r i c A c i d 0 i sod i um EDTA P r e s e r v a t i v e Perfume, C o l o r
% W t . 39.45 40.00 14 .00
5.00 0 . 1 5 1 . o o 0 . 0 5 0 . 1 0
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s and s t i r ; t h e b l e n d becomes
q u i t e v i s c o u s when t h e amide i s added. 2 . Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 .
F o r m u l a t i o n #SUB-001-01
Bubble Bath-Liquid
I n n r e d i e n t s : Water NaCl Cal foam ES-303 Calamide LL PEG 7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne Ox ide Perfume, Dye(s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e s
% W t . 48 .50
1 - 0 0 40.00
5 . 0 0 2 .50 3 .00 9 . 5 0
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r 1 i s t e d . 2 . A d j u s t t h e amount o f s a l t a s needed t o c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . 3 . The b l e n d o f amide and amine o x i d e p r o v i d e s a h i g h l e v e l of
d e t e r g e n c y w i t h minimum i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l n o t p o s s i b l e i n a s t r i c t l y h i g h amide b l e n d . F o r m u l a t i o n #BUS-O02-01
Bubble Bath, Emollient
I n a r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam ES-302 PEG 7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate Calamide LL Perfume, Dye(s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . M i x a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . 2 . The p r o d u c t i s c l e a r .
F o r m u l a t i o n #BUS-003-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a r y
31 . 7 0 60 I 00
5 .00 3 .00 0 .30
Bath and Shower Products 21
Bubble Bath - Economy Foam Bath
I n g r e d i e n t s : CalB1 end C1 e a r F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Wei n h t % 15 .00
Q . S . Q . S .
85.00
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : B l e n d i n g P rocedure :
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r i n t o wa te r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-3,000 cps w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide
DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D y e s ( s ) .
F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-004-01
Bubble Bath - Moisturizing Foam Bath
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal B1 end C1 e a r G l y c e r i n e F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Wei n h t % 3 7 . 0 0
1 . 5 0 Q . S .
0 . 2 - 0 . 8 61 . O O
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : B1 end i ng P rocedure :
i n e i n t o w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 5,000-8,000 cps w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i on, s l o w l y b l e n d CalB1 end C1 e a r and g l y c e r -
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, G l y c e r i n e ,
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F ragarnce , P r e s e r v - a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) .
F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-005-01
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co, : Suggested Formul a t i ons
22 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath - Premium Foam Bath
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal B1 end C1 e a r F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodi um C h l o r i d e Water
Wei n h t % 2 5 - 0 0
Q . S . Q . S .
7 5 . 0 0
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : B l e n d i n g P rocedure :
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1 ,000-3 ,000 cps w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n :
Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) .
Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA,
F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-006-01
Bath and Shower Gel
I n g r e d i e n t s : CalB1 end C l e a r F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
w h t % 50 .00
Q . S
49.60 0 . 1 0 - 0 . 7 0
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : B l e n d i n g P rocedure :
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 15,000-20,000 cps (No . 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 r p m ) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e a s needed.
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance: C1 e a r , V i scous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 15,000-20,000 cps
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-19 pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n :
B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D v e ( s ) .
Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamidopropyl
F o r m u l a t i o n No. GEL-001 -01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Both and Shower Products 23
Clear Body Wash
D . I. Water S t e o l CS-330 N i n o l 30-LL Amphosol CG Tween 20 Versene 100 G l y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t i v e , F rag rance , Dye
M i x i ng P rocedure : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o - 6 . 7
Clear Body Wash
D . I . Water B io -Te rge AS-40 N i n o l 55-LL S t e o l CS-330 Kessco PEG 6000DS P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F rag rance C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e
% b y Wei a h t Q.S. t o 100.0
57 .7 3 . 5 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 0 .20 0 . 5 Q.S.
% by Weight Q . S . t o 100 .0
37 .50 4 . 0
28.50 1 . o Q.S . Q . S . Q . S .
M i x i ng P rocedure : Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o
165F w i t h m i x i n g . Keep t e m p e r a t u r e c o n s t a n t u n t i l a l l s o l i d p a r t i c l e s have m e l t e d . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o 11OF, add p r e s e r v - a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and dye .
A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
Foaming Bath Powder
Stepano l ME-Dry Sodium B i c a r b o n a t e Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e L a t h a n o l LAL P r o p y l Paraben PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanol i n F rag rance
% by We ish t 19.00 21 . o o 44.85 11 - 0 0 0 . 1 5 3 .00 1 .oo
M i x i n g Procedure: Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r w i t h l i d and
m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . M i x f o l l o w i n g two i n g r e d i e n t s i n s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e m i x i n g . S t o r e i n s e a l e d c o n t a i n e r s . SOURCE: Stepan C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
24 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Shower Gel
I n n r e d i e n t s : Sodi um Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a c t a t e (and ) Sodium PCA (and ) G l y c i n e (and )
F r u c t o s e (and ) Urea (and ) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate (and ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l )
DATEM ( A m i l a n GST 40) PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F50) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (and ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s Sodium C h l o r i d e : A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y C i t r i c A c i d (10%) : A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 i f needed Procedure :
Weight% 2 .37
52 .28 0 .10
25 .00 10 .00
0 . 2 5 2.00 1 . o o 5 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
Q . S .
1 . D i s s o l v e Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e i n warm w a t e r a t 60C. 2 . Add Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . 3 . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r as l i s t e d , s t i r r i n g
between each a d d i t i o n . 5 . Cool t o 30-35C. Add Tego P e a r l N 100 and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . A d j u s t p H and v i s c o s i t y .
Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo(cold process)
I n q r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0 . 1 0 Water 44 .25 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e - (28% 2M. E . O . ) 25.00 Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) 2 0 . 0 0 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O lea te /Cocoa te ( A n t i 1 171) 1 . 5 0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 5 .00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2 . 5 0
D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l (Ab i 1 B 8852) 0 . 5 0 Water (and ) E t h o x y d i g l y c o l (and ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l
PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Taga t L ) 1 . o o
(and ) B u t y l e n e G l y c o l (and) M a t r i c a r i a E x t r a c t (and ) Sage E x t r a c t (and ) Yarrow E x t r a c t (and ) Balm M i n t E x t r a c t (and ) Rosemary E x t r a c t (and ) Res tha r row E x t r a c t (and) C o l t s f o o t E x t r a c t (and) W i l d Thyme E x t r a c t (and ) H o r s e t a i l E x t r a c t (and) F r u c t o s e (and ) A l t h e a E x t r a c t ( E x t r a p o n e 3 Speci a1 2/789490 Dragoco) 0 .15
C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) t o p H 6 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Fragrance Q . S . Ammonium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n ) as needed P r o c e d u r e :
pH. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp I : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i ng between a d d i t i o n s . A d j u s t
Bath and Shower Products 25
Deodorizing Body Wash
D. I. Water Stepan-Mi 1 d LSB Stepanol WAT N i n o l 96-SL Propy lene G l y c o l I r g a s a n DP-300 Kessco PEG 400 ML H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F rag rance Sodi um H y d r o x i de (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by Wei p h t Q.S t o 100.0
60 .00 25.00
4 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 .5 2 . 0 0 . 5 Q.S. Q.S. Q . S .
M i x i ng P rocedure :
165F w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 11OF. Meanwhi le , i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , combine i t e m s 5 and 6 m i x i n g u n t i l i t e m 6 i s d i s s o l v e d . Add t o main m i x t u r e . W h i l e m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g i terns.
Combine f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o
A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 -6 .5 w i t h 50% sodium h y d r o x i d e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
Deodorizing Body Wash
D . I. Water Stepan-Mi 1 d LSB S t apa no 1 WAT N i n o l 96-SL P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l I rgasan DP-300 Kessco PEG 400 ML Hydro1 yzed Col 1 agen P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F rag rance Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by We igh t Q.S. t o 100.0
60 .00 25.00
4 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 . 5 2 . 0 0 . 5 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
M i x i ng P rocedure : Combine f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and hea t t o
1 6 5 F w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o llOF. Meanwhi le i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , combine P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and I r g a s a n DP-300, and m i x u n t i l I r g a s a n DP-300 i s d i s s o l v e d . Add t o ma in m i x t u r e . W h i l e m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g i t e m s .
A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 -6 .5 w i t h 50% sodium h y d r o x i d e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: Stepan Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
26 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Economy Foam B a t h
._ I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal B1 end C1 ea r F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Comments About t h i s Formu B1 end i ng Procedure :
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n ,
ve
a :
w:, Q . S . Q . S .
1 5 . 0 0
8 5 . 0 0
s l o w l y b l e n d Ca lB lend C l e a r i n t o wa te r and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1 ,000 -3 ,000 cps w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i on : Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide
DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) .
F o r m u l a t i o n #BUB-OO4-001
Moisturizing Foam Bath
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal B l e n d C1 ea r G 1 y c e r i ne F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
% W t . 3 7 . 0 0
1 . 5 Q . S .
0 . 2 - 0 . 8 61 . O O
B l e n d i n g P rocedure :
i n e i n t o w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 5,000-8,000 cps w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d Ca lB lend C l e a r and g l y c e r -
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n :
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Sodi urn C h l o r i d e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) .
Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, G l y c e r i n e ,
F o r m u l a t i o n #SUB-005-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co I : Fo rmu la ry
Bath and Shower Products 27
Hand and Bath Gel
I n q r e d i e n t s : Weight% Phase A : Water 50 .15 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0 Sodi um I s e t h i o n a t e 3 . 0 0 Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 1 5 . 0 0 D i sod i um L a u r e t h - 3 Su l f o s u c c i n a t e 1 0 . 0 0 D i me th i cone Copol yo1 ( A b i 1 B 8851 ) 0 . 7 5 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 1 . o o P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n G I 34) 0 . 5 0 G l y c e r i n 3 . 0 0 Sodium L a c t a t e (and ) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and )
F r u c t o s e (and ) Urea (and ) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0 . 2 5
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. C o l o r Q . S . Fragrance Q . S . PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O lea te /Cocoa te ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 2 . 0 0 Cocoami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F 5 0 ) 11 .75 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (and ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 100) 2 .50 Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S. Procedure : 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d
3 . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O lea te /Cocoa te . 4 . Add t h e Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei a h t % Phase A : G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( T e g i n EGS) 2.50 M y r i s t i c A c i d 4 . 0 0 J o j o b a O i 1 5 .00 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 45 .00 Water 1 0 . 0 0 Phase B: Water 19 .00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2 . 0 0 Phase C : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (and) PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 01 e a t e
( A n t i 1 141L) 2 . 5 0 F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . Q.S. Phase D: Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 1 0 . 0 0 P rocedure : 1 . Heat Phase A t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C w h i l e m i x i n g (above t h e
m e l t i n g p o i n t o f T e g i n E G S ) . 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e a s Phase A . 3 . S t i r Phase B i n t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C. 4. Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . A v o i d a i r en t rapmen t . 5 . Add Phase D w i t h s t i r r i n g . A v o i d a i r en t rapmen t .
SOURCE: Goldschmid t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
a i r en t rapmen t .
Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash
28 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Luxury Shower Gelee
A c l e a r , v i s c o u s , r i c h - l a t h e r i n g shampoo f o r h a i r and body wh ich c l e a n s e s g e n t l y , and l e a v e s a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l .
P a r t : I n c l r e d i e n t (Trade Name) : A Dei on1 zed Water
TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (S tepano l WAT) Na4EDTA I m i d a z o l i d i n v l Urea (Germa l l 115) Me thy l Paraben Cocamidopropyl Amine Ox ide (Mazox CAPA) Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e (Jordapon ACI-30) Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A)
B Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) Cocamide DEA (Mazamide JT-128) F rag rance
W B 41 . 6 1 5 . 6
0 . 2 0 . 2 0 . 2
1 0 . 4 1 3 . 0 1 3 . 0
2 . 3 2 . 6 0 . 5
C C i t r i c A c i d 0 . 4
pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 7500-10,000 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 @ 6 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s l i s u i d
P rocedure :
I n a s i d e v e s s e l . p remix p a r t B, warming t o 40C t o d i s s o l v e t h e cocamide M E A . Add B t o A, m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . A d j u s t P H .
M i x p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n m a i n v e s s e l u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m .
Formul a t i on F-105
Combo Bar
M o d i f i c a t i o n o f an example i n US P a t e n t #5,041 , 2 3 3
I n g r e d i e n t LTrade Name) : Ta l l ow /Coco Soap ( 8 5 / 1 5 ) Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d
Water Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e ( W i t c o n a t e NIS) Sodium C h l o r i d e F rag rance T i 02 Na3H EDTA BHT
(Jordapon C I -75 )
Formul a t i on M104
Wt?h 5 5 . 6
29 .3 1 0 . 3
2 . 0 0 . 4 1 . o 1 . 0 0 . 2 0 . 2
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , Inc. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products 29
Mild Body Shampoo
This pearlized formula flash-foams to a voluminous, lacylather and leaves skin feeling soft and smooth, not dry andti ght.
Ingredient (Trade N_ame_^: Wt%Deionized Water 52.6Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (Jordapon CI-UP) 7,9Sodium C12-15 Pareth-15 Sulfonate (Avanel S-150 CG) 4.2Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (Stepanol AM) 10.1Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (Alfonic 1412-A) 7.5Glycol Stearate (Mapeg EGMS) 0.7Tetrasodium EDTA 0.2Methyl Paraben O . 2I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germall 115) 0.2Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine (Mafo CSB-50) 15.1Soyamide DEA (Mazamide SS-1Q) 1.2Citric Aci d 0.1
pH: 6.0-6.5Viscosity: 6600 cps (Brookfield #2 (3 3rpm)Appearance: Clear, pale straw-colored l i q u i d
Procedure:Mix the first eight ingredients together, heating to 65C
u n t i l all solids are dissolved. Add the last four ingredientsin order, m i x i n g u n t i l uniform. Adjust pH with c i t r i c acid or'triethanolamine, if necessary.
SOURCE: PPG Industries, Inc.: Formulation F-2Q4
Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent
Wt %Part A:Zusolat 1005/85 10.5Shellsol T 34.5P a r a f f i n o i l 9.0Aerosi1 200 1 . O
Part B:Oxypon 2145 2.5Extrakt 52 15.0Water, perfume, preservative 27.5
Mix part A and part B separately.F i n a l l y add part B to part A whils t s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Formulation B 27/2
30 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Body Shampoo
T h i s h i g h - v i s c o s i t y shower g e l e e i s s u i t a b l e f o r p a c k a g i n g i n t u b e s . I t f l a s h e s i n t o a dense, r i c h , s o f t - f e e l i n g l a t h e r wh ich r i n s e s e a s i l y and l e a v e s a smooth a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .
P a r t : I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): Wtl A D e i o n i zed Water 5 2 . 6
Po lyquatern ium-10 (Ucare Polymer JR-125) 0 .3
B Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l AM) 1 0 . 1
Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A) 7 . 5 Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e (Jordapon CI-UP) 7.9 N a 4 EDTA 0 . 2 M e t h y l Paraben 0 . 2 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germal l 11 5 ) 0 . 2
C Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e (Mafo CSB-50) 1 5 . 1 Soyami de DEA (Mazami de SS-10) 1 . 2 Fragrance 0 . 5 C i t r i c A c i d Q . S .
Sodium C12-15 Pare th-15 S u l f o n a t e (Avanel S-150 CG) 4 . 2
pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 19,900 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 @ 3rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s y e l l o w l i q u i d
Procedure :
p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 40C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e 40C t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e Mafo CSB-50, t h e Mazamide SS-10, and t h e f r a g r a n c e i n o r d e r , t h e n a d j u s t t h e pH.
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n F-107
D i s p e r s e t h e p o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r w i t h good
Hand Washing Paste
S u l f e t a l T C 50 P u r t o n SFD Carboxymethy l c e l l u l o s e S o f t soap Quar tz sand Ch ina c l a y Sodi um t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e q.s. t o make 100%: ‘water ,
Wt% 4 . 0 1 . o 1 . 5
1 2 . 0 60 .0
6 . 0 1 . 0
per fume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n B22/2
Bath and Shower Products 31
Moisturizing Body Wash
S t e o l CS-230 Stepano l AM-V S t e pan o 1 WA- Ex t r a N i n o l 30-LL EDTA Stepan TAB-2 S i 1 i cone DC200 Avocado O i l Maprosy l 30 H y d r o l y z e d Corn P r o t e i n P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodi urn Chl o r i de
% by Weight 30.00 25.00 23 .00 4.5 0.2 5.0 1 . o 0.5 10.0 0.5 Q . S . Q.S. Q.S.
M i x i n g Procedure : Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o
165-170F w i t h m i x i n g . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t Stepan TAB-2, S i l i c o n e DC200, and Avocado O i l t o 165-170F w i t h m i x i n g . When m e l t e d , add t o f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o llOF, t h e n add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s (Maprosy l 30, H y d r o l y z e d c o r n p r o t e i n , p r e s e r v a t i v e , dye, and f r a g r a n c e ) w i t h m i x i n g .
A d j u s t pH t o 5.0-6.2 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
Pearlescent Body Wash
D . I. Water B i o-Terge AS-40 Kessco EGMS N i n o l 55-LL S t e o l CS-330 Kessco PEG 6000DS P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by Wei a h t Q.S. t o 100.0
37 a 50 1 . oo 4 .00
28.50 1 . o o Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
M i x i n g Procedure :
w i t h m i x i n g . Keep t e m p e r a t u r e c o n s t a n t f o r one h a l f h o u r . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o llOF, add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and dye.
Combine f i r s t s i x i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165F
A d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: Stepan 60.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
32 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlescent Shower Gel
Phase : A A A A A A A B B
I n n r e d i e n t i D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e Ammoni um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Cocamid DEA G l y c o l S t e a r a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e O i l s o f A loha Kukui Nut O i l Sodium C h l o r i d e Perfume
% by W t 65.50 2 0 . 0 0
8 . 0 0 5 .00 1 . 5 0 QS
0 .50 1 . o o 0 .25
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P rocedure : Phase A : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s excep t p r e s e r v a t i v e and per fume a t 60C Cool t o 40C. Phase B . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and pe r fume. Package.
Here t h e f u n c t i o n o f t h e Kukui Nut O i l i s t o r e p l e n i s h t h e o i l s l o s t on t h e h a i r so t h a t i t does n o t g e t o v e r l y d r y . U s i n g t o o much O i l wou ld c u t down on foaming .
After Bath Talc
Phase: I n n r e d i e n t : A T a l c B Perfume O i l E3 PPG-20 M e t h y l Glucose E t h e r B O i I s o f A l o h a Macadami a Nut O i 1
% bv W t 92 .50
5 .00 1 . 5 0 1 . o o
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P rocedure : Combine Phase B and when u n i f o r m b l e n d i n t o t a l c .
Here t h e O i l s o f A loha Macadamia Nut O i l h e l p s t h e t a l c sp read and c u t s down on t h e d r y f e e l i n g o f t h e s k i n . Leaves a n i c e smooth f e e l .
SOURCE : O i 1 s o f A 1 oha : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Spreading Bath Oil
__-___ Formula: Ado1 66 C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e A r o s u r f 66-PE 12 F r a g r a n c e
Procedure :
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n M i x c o l d i n o r d e r l i s t e d .
56 by Weight 7 . 0 0
45.00 45 .00
1 .oo 2 . 0 0
Bath and Shower Products 33
Pearlized Shower Gel
A p e a r l i z e d body shampoo w i t h P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m o i s t u r e , R i t a t a i n e f o r m i l d n e s s , and P o l y q u t a 400 f o r s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e 2 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 3 . R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 4 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 5 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a t o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 6 . R i t a t a i ne (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne) 7 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 8 , Pol y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 ) 9 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 11 . G1 y d a n t
%w/w 37.50
5 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 5 .00 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 .50
40 .80 0 . 2 0
Compounding P rocedure :
and h e a t t o 70C. Add i t e m s 3-7 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A l l o w t o c o o l . Add i tem 11.
D i s s o l v e i t e m s 8 and 9 i n i t e m 10 . Combine w i t h i t e m s 1 and 2
R e f . No. 121-145
Shower Gel
A shower g e l c o n t a i n i n g P o l y q u t a 400 f o r v i s c o s i t y and c o n d i t i o n i n g .
1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 .
I n g r e d i e n t s : D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um L a l r y l s u l f a t e Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne Laurami de DEA P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) C i t r i c A c i d 50% G1 y d a n t
%w/w 42 .60 2 5 . 0 0 25.00
3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 . 2 0 0 .20
Compounding P rocedure :
Add i t e m s 2-5 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l . Add i t e m s 7 -8 . Heat w a t e r t o 70C and add P o l y q u t a 400. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d .
R e f . No. 121-108A
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
34 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Premium Foam Bath
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal B1 end C1 e a r F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
%Wt. 25 .00
Q . S . Q . S .
75 .00
Comments About t h i s Formula: B l e n d i n g P rocedure :
Wi th smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1 ,000-3 ,000 cps w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n :
Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s ) I
Water, Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA,
F o r m u l a t i o n #BUB-006-01
Bath Body Wash
I n g r e d i e n t s ; Cal foam ES-303 Sodi um Chl o r i de Water Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide C Decyl Po l y g l ucose
F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-002-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co,: F o r m u l a r y
O/oWt. 60.10
1 . 1 0 5 . 3 0 5 . 0 0 8 . 8 0
19 .70
Bath and Shower Products 35
Rona/Shampoo/Shower Gel
Use o f t i t a n a t e d m ica p e a r l p i g m e n t s i n shampoo f o r m u l a t i o n s c r e a t e s i r i d e s c e n t e f f e c t s w h i c h canno t be a c h i e v e d w i t h conven- t i ona l s t e a r a t e p e a r l i ng a g e n t s . Rona ' s T i m i r o n Super C o l o r s , wh ich d e r i v e t h e i r e f f e c t f r o m l i g h t i n t e r f e r e n c e , r e f l e c t s i n g l e c o l o r s a c r o s s t h e v i s i b l e spec t rum. T i m i r o n Super G o l d produces a g o l d l u s t e r , T i m i r o n Super Red a r e d r e f l e c t a n c e , and so on . Comb ina t ions o f t h e Super C o l o r s and w a t e r - s o l u b l e dyes w i 11 r e s u l t i n u n i q u e " t w o - c o l o r " e f f e c t s , whose appearance v a r i e s w i t h t h e a n g l e o f v i e w i n g .
Rona has deve loped a system f o r suspend ing m ica p igmen ts i n d e t e r g e n t f o r m u l a t i o n s . An i n c r e a s e i n v i s c o s i t y a l o n e w i 11 n o t p r e v e n t s e t t l i n g ; a t h i x o t r o p i c g e l i s needed. The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum HV (Mg A1 S i l i c a t e ) and K l u c e l G ( h y d r o x y p r o p y l - c e l l u l o s e ) y i e l d s a g e l n e t w o r k t h a t i s c o m p a t i b l e w i t h many d e t e r g e n t systems: t h e Veegum p r o v i d e s t h e suspens ion p r o p e r - t i e s , w h i l e t h e K l u c e l a c t s as a p r o t e c t i v e c o l l o i d t o p r e v e n t a g g l o m e r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum.
The d e t e r g e n t systems c o n t a i n i n g t h e Veegum/Klucel c o m b i n a t i o n can be manu fac tu red v i a c o l d p r o c e s s . The p r e - h o m o g e n i z a t i o n s t e p t o s w e l l t h e Veegum can be a c c e l e r a t e d w i t h h e a t . Because Veegum i s s e n s i t i v e t o s a l t s , l a c k o f a g g l o m e r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum w i t h t h e d e s i r e d d e t e r g e n t l e v e l and s a l t c o n t e n t s h o u l d be i n s u r e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g w i t h f o r m u l a t i o n .
Pearlized Bath Salts
Phase # : 1 B a t h C r y s t a l s 1 P e a r l p igmen t ( e . 9 . C o l o r o n a Magenta)
2 L u v i s k o l VA641 2 I s o p r o p a n o l 2 F rag rance
Wt% 99 .00
1 - 0 0
0 .40 3 .60
9 , s .
Procedure : Combine phase 1 w i t h g e n t l e t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Combine phase
2 . When homogenoeus, s p r a y o n t o phase 1 w i t h c o n t i n u o u s t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Evapora te s o l v e n t v i a vacuum o r t r a y d r y i ng .
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SD123
36 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shebu Shower Gelee
A b a t h g e l e e w i t h a smooth u n i q u e f e e l f r o m P a t i o n i c I S L and Shebu i s a s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 5 . G l y d a n t P l u s 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 7 . F r a g r a n c e 8 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e )
%w/w 53 .00
4.00 3 .00 3 . 0 0 0.20
3 6 . 2 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 5 0
Compounding P rocedure : Heat i n g r e d i e n t s 1-6 t o 65C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 43C and
add p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e and pH w i t h l a c t i c a c i d .
R e f . No. 121-80A
Shebu Shower Gelee
A b a t h g e l e e w i t h a smooth u n i q u e f e e l . Shebu i s a s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r . I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 I Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 4 . G l y d a n t P l u s 5 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 6 . F r a g r a n c e 7 . R i t a p e g 150 O S (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e )
w/w 53.00
4 . 0 0 3 .00 0 . 2 0
39 .20 0 . 1 0 0 . 5 0
Compounding P rocedure : Heat i n g r e d i e n t s 1 -6 t o 65C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 43C and
add pe r fume. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e and pH w i t h l a c t i c a c i d .
R e f . No. 121-808
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products 37
Shower Gel with Mbaruti Oil
Stage M a t e r i a l : Stage A : 1 Water; Pure 2 EDTA, D isod ium S a l t 3 Germaben 11-E 4 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) 5 Gafquat 734 6 M b a r u t i O i l (Mexican Poppy O i l ) 7 F rag rance
Stage B: 8 D-Panthenol 75% 9 Cocamide CDE 10 Empigen BB
Stage D: 11 Tego P e a r l S33 12 Phosphor i c A c i d 13 C . S . D&C Y e l l o w No. 6; 1?6 S o l n 14 C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1; 1% S o l n 1 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e ( s a l t )
Q u a n t i t y
52,2459 0.2009 0.7509
37. OOOg 0 .2009 0.1009 0.3009
0.2009 2. ooog 1 .ooog
3 . OOOg 0.0459 0.1409 0.7009 2 ,7509
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
a f t e r each a d d i t i o n .
match b e f o r e f i n a l l y a d j u s t i n g t h e v i s c o s i t y by a d d i n g Sodium C h l o r i d e .
Me te r o u t t h e w a t e r and add each i t e m i n t u r n , m i x i n g w e l l
A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h p h o s p h o r i c ( o r C i t r i c ) a c i d and c o l o u r
P r o j e c t J W 2422/Formula R e f . 936* 1
Shower Gel
S tage M a t e r i a1 : H . E . Ginseng Pre-Mix 1 : 1 F rag rance 2 Empigen BB 3 I r g a s a n DP300 Stage A : 4 Water; Pure 5 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) S tage B: 6 Emp i lan E 2502 7 C i t r i c A c i d BP 8 Sodium C h l o r i d e ( s a l t ) 9 H . E . Chamomile 10 C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s : Make i n o r d e r .
SOURCE: A&E Connock: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s P r o j e c t JW 0263/Formula R e f . : 782*0
____. Quan t i ty 0 . ooog
0.5009 5 . OOOg 0.1009
44,5509 45. ooog
1.2009 0.2509 2 .2009 1 .ooog 0.2009
38 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Gel with Softigen 767
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% A . S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) 5 . 0 0
M a r l i n a t 242/28 (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 38.00 Ampholy t JB 130/K (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 10.00 E l f a c o s GT 282 S (Hydrogenated T a l l o w e t h - 6 0
M y r i s t y 1 G l y c o l ) 6 .00 C o l o r P r e s e r v a t i v e Water , up t o
q . s . q . s .
100.00
F rag rance q . s .
P r e p a r a t i o n :
about 60 degrees C, and s t i r r e d d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o about 30 degrees C . The perfume i s t h e n added.
A l l t h e m a t e r i a l s i n ( A ) a r e mixed t o g e t h e r , hea ted up t o
Formul a t i on 5 . 4 5
Shower Shampoo
I n n r e d i e n t s : Weight%
Arnpholyt JB 130K (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 13.00 A) M a r l i n a t 242/28 (Sod i um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 41 . o o
S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) 2 . 0 0 Dehyquar t LT ( L a u r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1 . so Pan theno l 1 . o o P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 . 0 0 Water up t o 100.00
B) F rag rance L imobai n A . 11 6.830 0 . 5 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
( 6 ) i s added a t abou t 35 degrees C . ( A ) i s m ixed t o g e t h e r and m e l t e d a t about 50 degrees C .
F o r m u l a t i o n 5 . 4 T
SOURCE: Huls Amer ica I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products 39
Skin Conditioning Bath Gelee with Ritavena 5
I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w P a r t A : 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10 .00 2 . R i t a v e n a 5 2 . 0 0 P a r t B: 3 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 53 .00 4. D i s t i l l e d Water 21 .15 5 . Monamid 150 ADD 4 .00 6 . R i tawax 15 3 . 0 0 7 . P a t i o n i c I S L 3 .00 8. R i t a p e g 150 DS 0 . 5 0 9 . Me thy lpa raben 0 . 1 5 P a r t C: 10 .F rag rance 1 . o o
12.Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n ) +-1 . o o
Compoundi ng P rocedure : Heat P a r t B t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . Premix P a r t A i n a b l e n d e r
f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add t o P a r t B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t C . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 u s i n g P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) . SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 : F o r m u l a t i o n 111-203
11.Kathon CG 0 . 5 0
1 3 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) + - O n 70
Dispersible Bath Oil
Formul a : C r o v o l PK-40 P r o c e t y l 10
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 F rag rance Procedure :
A1 coho1 SD-40
S t r a i g h t b l e n d a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i 1 c l e a r .
Wt% 9 . 0 0
16 .00 10.00 64.00
q . s .
Floating Bath-Oil Bar
Formula: Wt% W i t c o n o l APM 69 .0 C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 1 0 . 0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 1 0 . 0 Sodium S t e a r a t e ( W i t c o ) 8 . 0 Water 3 . 0 C o l o r , Perfume q . s . p r o c e d u r e :
m i n e r a l o i l , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and w a t e r . Heat t o 80 t o 85C. S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 77C and add c o l o r and pe r fume. Pour i n t o molds a t 73C.
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
D i s p e r s e sodium s t e a r a t e C-1 i n W i t c o n o l APM. Add C a r n a t i o n
40 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Washing LotionWith a bacteriostatic effect, clear, 9.9% active ingredient
Reci pe : A O c t o p i r o x B Genapol AMG C F rag rance
Glucamate DOE 120 D y e s t u f f sol u t i on P r e s e r v a t i v e
D A l l a n t o i n E Water F Genagen CAB
Procedure : 1 D i s s o l v e A i n 6 . 2 S t i r t h e components o f C one a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 . 3 D i s s o l v e D i n E w h i l e h e a t i n g s l i g h t l y . 4 A d d 3 t o 1 . 5 I f necessa ry a d j u s t t h e pH. 6 A d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h F.
Formula A II/4022
Washing Lotion Clear, 10.5% active ingredient
Rec ipe : A Hostapon KCG 6 F rag rance C Water
Glucamate DOE 120 Magnesium c h l o r i d e D y e s t u f f s o l u t i o n P r e s e r v a t i v e Genagen CAB
Procedure : 1 D i s s o l v e B i n A . 2 S t i r t h e components o f C one a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 . 3 I f necessa ry a d j u s t t h e p H .
Fo rmu la A II/4021
SOURCE: Hoechs t : Guide Rec ipes f o r t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y
Wt% 0 .20
25.00 0 . 3 0 1 . o o
q . s . q . s . 0.20
63.30 10.00
W O
3 0 . 0 0 0 . 3 0
55.20 3 . 0 0 1 . 5 0
q . s . q . s .
10.00
Bath and Shower Products 41
2 in 1 Shower Gel and Body Lotion24.5% active ingredient
Reci pe : A Emulsogen LP
Genapol L-3 C e t i o l HE Soybean o i l I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e
Wt% 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0
B P r i f a c 2942 4.00
C Hostapon S C I Genapol LRO l i q u i d Genapol AMG F rag rance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on P r e s e r v a t i v e Genagen CAB
D Polymer JR 400 A 1 1 a n t o i n
2 . 5 0 25 .00 1 5 . 0 0
1 . o o q . s . q . s .
6 .00
0.50 0.30
E Water 3 2 . 7 0
Procedure : 1 . D i s s o l v e B i n A w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y . 2 . S t i r t h e components o f C i n s u c c e s s i o n i n t o 1, wh ich s h o u l d
s t i l l be warm. 3 . D i s s o l v e t h e components o f D i n E w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y . 4 . S t i r 3 i n t o 2 . 5 . Homogenize.
Formula A I / 8 0 6 5
Creamy Bath Oil Clear, low viscosity
Rec ipe : A Hos tapha t K L 340 N
Emulsogen LP M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Soybean o i l I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e F rag rance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on
2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
5 3 . 0 0 10.00 30.00
3 . 0 0 q . s .
P rocedure :
t e m p e r a t u r e . M i x t o g e t h e r a l l t h e components i n any sequence a t room
Formula A X V / 1 0 1 0
SOURCE: Hoechs t : Guide Recipes f o r t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y
Section IV Beauty Aids
42
Beauty Aids 43
Aloe Vera Cream Scrub
F-0.cELLi~a.L y c b y \ V e i q h t A : Dei o n i z e d Water 6 5 . 9 5 A l o e Vera Gel 1 .00 0 : P r o p y l e n e Gl y c o i 2 . 0 0 M e t h y l p a r a b e r i 0 . 2 0 E t h y l p a r a b e n 0. i 5 C : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S E 5.00 C a r n a t i o n Mi n e r a i Oi 1 ( W i t c o ) 5.00 S a f f 1 ower O i 1 i .00 S e s a m e O i l 1 . 0 0 S q u a l a n e 1 . o n
P a l m i t a t e ( W i c k h e n ) 1 . n o S t e a r i c A c i d 2 . 5 0 C e t y l A 1 c o h o 1 0 . 5 0 M e t h o c e l 4 0 - i o 0 0 . 5 0 n : Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 1 .00 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 1 .00 E : C o l o r q . s F : P e r f u m e O i l 0 . 1 0 G: D e i o n i z e d Water i . o o Dowici i 2 0 0 A n t i m i c r o b i a l 0 . 1 0 H : Po l y e t . h y l e n e 9 A ?0.00
D i o c t y l A d i p a t e ( a n d ) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) O c t y l
Procedure :
t o 8 0 C . I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e p a r e B b y h e a t i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ; a d d p a r a b e n s a n d when d i s s o i v e d a d d t o A . Combine w i t h b a t c h a n d m j x f a r 5 r n i n s . Add D a n d b e g i n t o c o o l . Add E , t h e n F w h e n b a t c h i s b e l o w 45C. Add G a n d s p r i n k l e : n ti.
Melt. water i n t o v e s s e l , a d d a l o e v e r a , mix a n d b e g i n h e a t i n g
Moisture Stick Base
_ _ Formul i: : 61 a n a o l M i n e r a l 01 1 [ W i t c o ) Rosswax 26-1 1 5 2 Rosswax 7 5- 1 i 0 2 Rosswax 1 8 2 4 Ameriate P
Yo by Vje ign t 50 2 8
2 1 0 10
P rocedure :
m i x e d t h o r o u g h l y , p o u r i n t o m o l d s . SOURCE : W i t c o Corp I : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Melt i n g r e d i e n t s i n a k e t t l e a t 1 7 0 F u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When
44 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Vera Moisturizer
E x c e l l e n t f e e l , c o n t a i n i n g R i t a l o e f o r s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g and C l a r i s k i n f o r p r e v e n t i n g and a t t e n u a t i n g age s p o t s . I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w 1 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 .00
3 . M i n e r a l O i l ( B r i t o l 9NF) 8.00 4 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 5 0 / 5 0 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0
6 . R i t a s o l ( I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e ) 1 . o o 7 . R i t a c e t i ( C e t y l E s t e r s ) 1 .oo 8. R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 4 .00 9 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 50% 1 . o o 1 0 . G1 y c e r i ne 2 . 0 0 11 , P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 2 .00 12 .Me thy l Pa rahydroxy Benzoate 0 . 3 0 1 3 . P r o p y l Parahydroxy Benzoate 0 . 1 0 1 4 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera Gel ) 1 . o o 15 . S o r b i t o 1 70% 2.00 16 , C l a r i s k i n (Yeas t E x t r a c t ) 5 . 0 0 17.Per fume q . s . 18 , D i s t i 11 ed /De ion i zed Water 64.10 Compounding P rocedure :
M ix i t e m s 1-8 and h e a t t o 8OC. Combine i t e m s 9-15 and 18, and h e a t t o 80C. S l o w l y add w a t e r phase t o o i l phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add i t e m 16-17 and c o o l t o 4 0 C .
2 . L a n o l i n USP X-Tra Deo 0 .50
5 . S t e a r i c Ac id 4 . 0 0
R e f . No. 122-838
Liposome Gel
A s o o t h i n g g e l comb in ing t h e b e n e f i t s o f v i t a m i n s A, C and E i n a s y n e r g i s t i c and e f f e c t i v e l i posome system w i t h h y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n , I n b r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water
56wJw_ 87.40
2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 0 . 5 0 3 . Xanthan Gum 0 . 1 0 4 . 1 , 3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 . 0 0 5 . R i t a s i 1 190 (D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ) 0 . 1 0 6 . Shebu WS (Shea B u t t e r ) 1 . o o
8. Promois WS ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) 0 .20 9 . G l y d a n t 0 . 2 0 1 0 . F r a g r a n c e 0 .10 11 . Rovi some ACE ( V i t am i n B l e n d ) 5 . 0 0 Compounding P rocedure :
Add i t e m s 4,5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8 ,9 ,10 and 11. The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 .
7 . TEA @ 99% 0 . 4 0
D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d .
R e f . No. 121-95
SOURCE: R.I.T,A. C o r p , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 45
Anti-Wrinkle Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3 . Xanthan Gum 4. 1 ,3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 I R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i me th i cone Copol yo1 ) 6 . Shebu WS (Shebu B u t t e r ) 7 . TEA 13 99% 8 . Promois ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 9 . G l y d a n t 1 0 , F r a g r a n c e 11 .Tens i ne (Wheat P r o t e i n)
%w/w 87 .40
0 . 5 0 0 .10 5.00 0 .10 1 . o o 0 . 4 0 0 . 2 0 0 .20 0 . 1 0 5 .00
Compounding P rocedure :
Add i t e m s 4 , 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8,9,10 and 11. The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 .
D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d .
R e f . No. 122-103A
Facial Firming Gel
An o i l - f r e e f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t r e h y d r a t e s t h e s k i n and p r o t e c t s a g a i n s t s k i n r e l a x a t i o n and w r i n k l e s w i t h v i t a l p r o t e i n s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 3 I D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 4 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 5 . D isod ium EDTA 6. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 7 . Tens ine (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 8 . R e d u c t i n e (Oat P r o t e i n ) 9 . B ioCare SA (Albumen and H y a l u r i c A c i d and
10. G1 ydan t 1 1 , B l u e Dye
D e x t r a n S u l f a t e )
aw/w 60,50
0 .80 27.90
5 .00 0 . 2 0
5 .00 1 . o o
9,5.
0 . 1 0 0 .50 9,5.
Compoundi ng P rocedure : S l o w l y d i s p e r s e A c r i t a m e r i n t o w a t e r w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . M ix
u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Add i t e m s 3-5. W i t h s l o w m i x i n g add i t e m 6 . Add i t e m s 7-10 and m i x .
R e f . No. 122-95
SOURCE: R , I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
46 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Biorepair Skin Gel
T h i s w h i t e g e l w i t h e m o l l i e n t s has a good p e n e t r a t i o n w i t h a n o n - o i l y a f t e r f e e l . Hyasol-BT d e l i v e r s m o i s t u r e t o t h e s k i n . Repai r f u n c t i o n i s p r o v i d e d b y F i t o b r o s i de ( 1 i p i d b a r r i e r ) and Immucel l ( a c t i v a t i o n o f c e l l r e s p i r a t i o n ) I
Item I n q r e d i e n t s : Weight% 1 A ) D e i o n i z e d Water 70.40 2 G l y c e r i n 5 . 0 0 3 Hamamelis E x t r a c t 5 . 0 0 4 D-Panthenol 50P 1 .oo 5 Phenoni p 0 . 3 0 6 Carbopol 1342 0 .60 7 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 0 . 3 0 8 L u v i s k o l K90 0 . 1 0 9 B) Sodium H y d r o x i d e 18% S o l u t i o n 2 .70
10 C ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 3 . 0 0 11 B i s a b o l o l 0 . 5 0 12 A n t a r o x CO 630 2 . 0 0 13 D) F i t o b r o s i de 3 .00 14 Immucel l 3 .00 15 Hyasol -BT 3 . 0 0 16 F rag rance 0 . 1 0
P rocedure : D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-8 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h phase € 3 ) . M i x phase C and i n c o r p o r a t e i n t h e r e s u l t i n g g e l I A w h i t e g e l i s o b t a i n e d . F i n a l l y add i t e m s 13-16 one a f t e r a n o t h e r . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 009 .A /04 .93
Anti-Aging Leave On Mask
T h i s r e f r e s h i n g q u i c k mask a c c e l e r a t e s s k i n c e l l t u r n o v e r ( I m m u c e l l ) and s t r e n g t h e n s t h e weakened l i p i d b a r r i e r (Lac tomide )
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei a h t % 1 A) D e i o n i z e d Water 76.90 2 G l y c e r i n 5 . 0 0 3 Phenoni p 0 . 3 0 4 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 0 . 2 0 5 U l t r e z 10 0 . 3 0 6 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0 .30 7 A b i l B 8843 2 . 0 0 8 Amerchol L 101 5 . 0 0 9 Immuce l l 5 . 0 0
10 Lactomi de 5 . 0 0 P rocedure :
D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-5 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 6 ) t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 . F i n a l 111 i n c o r p o r a t e i terns 7-10 under s t i r r i ng one a f t e r a n o t h e r . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 031 . C / O 1 - 9 6
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 47
Blusher
Syncrowax ERL-C Syncrowax HR-C Ceraphyl 368 M y r i t o l 318 Emerest 2452 Methy l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Supra T a l c B i r o n ESQ M i c a M-RP C o l o r g r i n d - 50% 19-012 ( D & C Red #6 Ba Lake)
i n M y r i t o l 318
Wt% 1 2 . 1 0
1 .90 38 I 40
3 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 .20 0 .10
18 .55 15.00
8 . 2 5
2 . 0 0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P rocedure : The c o l o r g r i n d was p r e p a r e d i n advance on a t h r e e r o l l e r
m i l l . Combine t h e waxes, g r i n d and o i l s . Heat t o 80-85C u n t i l homogeneous. Add t h e t a l c , m ica and BiOC1. A g i t a t e w i t h a h i g h speed m i x e r u n t i l no agg lomera tes r e m a i n . S t i r i n t h e p e a r l p igmen t w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Pour a t 7 0 C .
F o r m u l a t i o n AN2-33-2
Starlight Body Freshener
Phase # : I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 1 G1 y c e r i ne 1 SD 40 A l c o h o l 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l i g h t C o l o r
Wei s h t % 31 - 5 5
5 . 0 0 20.00
0 . 1 0
2 1% Carbopol 941 s o l u t i o n 40 .00
3 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% 3 D e i o n i zed w a t e r
4 S o l u l a n 98 4 F rag rance
0 . 6 0 2 .00
0 . 5 0 0 .25
5 C e r t i f i e d d y e ( s ) qs
Procedure :
add t h e r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r . Combine phase #1 w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When homogeneous,
F o r m u l a t i o n EM2-27
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
48 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Emulsion, Type O/W, with MPC - Milk Peptide Complexand Calendula Oil CLR
I n a r e d i e n t s : a ) Eumulg in VL 75
L a n e t t e 0 Monomuls 60-35 C C e t i o l LC C e t i o l B C e t i o l PGL C a l e n d u l a O i l CLR Phenoni p
b ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Phenon i p Carbopol 980 G1 y c e r i n
c ) KOH, 20% s o l u t i o n d ) Water , d i s t i l l e d
N a 3 - C i t r a t e x 2H20 MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex
M a n u f a c t u r e : a) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C; b ) Heat t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) .
C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 50C; c ) S t i r i n . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . d ) S t i r i n .
Perfume, homogenize
Weight% 4 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 1 .oo 4 . 0 0 5 .00 1 . o o 3 .00 0 .30
65.85 0 .30 0 . 3 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 7 5 9 .38 0 . 1 2 0 . 5 0
30C;
Ceramide-Complex CLR (P)
Ceramide Complex CLR (P ) c o n t a i n s 2% l i p i d s i n l a m e l l a r , l i q u i d c r y s t a l l i n e f o r m . The p l a n t d e r i v e d l i p i d m i x t u r e c o n s i s t s o f a t l e a s t 10% s p h i n g o l i p i d s ( ce ramides , g l y c o c e r a m i d e s = c e r e b r o s i d e s ) .
Eye Gel with Ceramide Complex CLR (P)
I n q r e d i e n t s : Weight%
K e l t r o l , 1% aqueous s o l u t i o n 30 .00 Water , d i s t i l l e d 35 .70 Phenoni p 0 . 3 0 C e t i o l 3 600 4 . 0 0
b ) Ceramide Complex CLR (P) 1 0 . 0 0 M a n u f a c t u r e :
a ) H i s p a g e l 200 20 .00
M i x a ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n ; Add b ) t o a) w i t h slow s t i r r i n g . Per fume.
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 49
Clear Facial Cleansing Gel
A c l e a r , m i l d f oaming f a c i a l c l e a n s e r s u i t a b l e f o r a t u b e o r pump packag ing . The Jordapon ACI-30 p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t foaming, g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , and a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .
___ P a r t : I n q r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): _- W t % A Dei o n i zed Water 51 .40
H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (Me thoce l 40-100) 0 .20 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 0 5 Na4EDTA 0 . 1 0 C i t r i c A c i d , 50% 0 . 0 5 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germa l l 11 5 ) 0 . 1 5
B
C
Dei o n i zed Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) Me thy l Paraben PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e (Mapeg 6000DS)
20 I O 0 3 . 5 0 0 . 1 5 0 .50
Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( Jo rdapon ACI-30) 16 .80 Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e (Mafo CSB-50) 4 . 0 0 Soyami de DEA (Mazami de SS-10) 1 . 5 0 Cocami de DEA (Mazami de JT-128) 1 . 5 0
D F rag rance C i t r i c A c i d , 50%
0 . 1 0 Q. S
pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 18,900 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 @ 3 rpm) Appearance: C1 e a r , v i scous ye1 l o w 1 i q u i d
P rocedure : D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e p a r t A
w a t e r , s t i r r i n g f o r about t e n m i n u t e s . Add t h e Na4EDTA and t h e t r i e t h a n o l ami ne; c o n t i nue m i x i ng f o r abou t 20 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e comp le te h y d r a t i o n . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000DS. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH.
SOURCE: PPG i n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n K-103
50 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Skin Mousse
- Formula : A: Cel q u a t L-200 D i s t i l l e d Water P ropy lene G l y c o l T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e P r e s e r v a t i v e B : C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l Oi 1 ( W i t c o ) A c e t u l an Amerchol L-101 Emerest 2407 C e t y l A1 coho1 S t e a r i c A c i d X X X Crodano l I P M C: F rag rance
YO b y WeighJ
0 . 5 0 8 9 . 1 0
2 .00 0 . 5 0
q . s .
2 .00 0 . 5 0 1 . 5 0 0 . 7 5 0 . 2 5 1 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
a . s .
Procedure : D i s s o l v e Ce lqua t L-200 i n w a t e r , add remai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s
o f A w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat t o 7 5 C . Prepare B and h e a t t o 75C. When each i s u n i f o r m , add B t o A . C o o l . Add C when 35C. F i 1 1 .
Silky Blush
Formula : Pigment SF1 21 4 S i 1 i cone F1 u i d Orgaso l 2002 Crodamol PMP Wh i te Fonol i ne P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o ) C r o s i l k Powder (Croda) Magnesium S t e a r a t e - D ( W i t c o )
% -. b y Wei q h t 30 .00 27.00 2 5 . 0 0
7 . 0 0 5 . 6 0 5 . 0 0 0 . 4 0
P rocedure :
powders e v e n l y . Add Crodamol PMP and c o n t i n u e h i g h s h e a r . Add Wh i te F o n o l i n e P e t r o l a t u m and p r e s s i n t o s u i t a b l e mo ld . T h i s i s a s i l k y p ressed b l u s h t h a t can be smoothed on w i t h a b r u s h o r b y hand.
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp , : Suggested Formul a t i ons
B l e n d p igment powders and add SF1214. Use h i g h shear t o wet
Beauty Aids 51
Cooling Facial Balm
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2 . 0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 2 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2 . 5 C e t e a r y l I sononanoa te ( T e g o s o f t C I ) 1 . o
Phase E : Propy lene G1 y c o l Water
Phase C: O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Carbomer ETD 2050 E thano l Cyc l omet h i cone
Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n )
Phase E : Fragrance ( s u i t a b l e f o r f a c i a l p r o d u c t ) P r e s e r v a t i ves
1 .8 7 2 . 6
3 . 5 0 . 2
1 0 . 0 4 . 0
0 . 4
Q.S. Q . S .
Procedure : 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A / B . Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add E t h a n o l and Cyc lometh i cone . 8 . Add Phase D/E . S t i r . 9 . M ix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical Corp , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
52 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Eye Shadow
I n p r e d i e n t s : A : S t e a r i c Ac id
G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and Ce tea re th -20 (Promulgen D) Candel i 11 a Wax M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e D ime th i cone (DC 200 F l u i d , 350 c s t k ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n
8: D e i o n i z e d Water U1 t r a m a r i nes (C43-1810 Cosmet ic B1 ue) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (C47-5175 Cosmet ic W h i t e )
C: M i c a (and ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( T i m i c a P e a r l W h i t e )
D : D e i o n i z e d Water PVP (PVP K-60)
E : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l Hydroxy P r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (Me thoce l 40-202) Veegum, Magnesi urn A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e
F : D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% Phenoxyethanol (Dowanol EPh) EDTA (Versene 100) S i m e t h i c o n e ( A n t i f o a m AF Emu ls ion )
G : D e i o n i z e d Water Quatern ium-15 (Dow ic i 1 200 )
W t .%* 3 . 0 0 2 .oo 1 . o o 1 . o o 1 .oo 0 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
34.30 6 . 0 0 1 .50
5 .00
30 . O O 4 .00
5 . 0 0 0 .20 0 . 5 0
2 .00 1 . 2 0 0 . 5 0 0 .10 0 . 0 5
1 . o o 0 .05
P rocedure : Weigh t h e P a r t B and P a r t D w a t e r i n t o a b e a k e r . Add Veegum
and m ix f o r 20 m i n . u s i n g a homogenizer a t 5000 r p m . D i s p e r s e t h e Me thoce l i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , add t o t h e b a t c h and mix f o r 10 m i n . a t 5000 rpm. Weigh and m i x t o g e t h e r P a r t F, add them t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 5 m in . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B and m ix f o r 5 m i n . Add t h e PVP and m i x 2 m i n . Heat t h e b a t c h t o 80C, m i x and h e a t P a r t A t o 80C. Add P a r t A t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 10 m in . a t 5000 rpm. T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 60C add P a r t C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 45C m i x P a r t G i n g r e d i e n t s and add them t o t h e b a t c h . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co. , I n c . : Veegum Formula f r o m Dow Chemical Co.
Beauty Aids 53
Creamy Lipstick (Summer Mauve)
Formu 1 a : A: O z o k e r i t e Po l y e t h y l ene Wax Wh i te P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m (Vi1 t c o ) Mal ea ted Soybean O i 1 D i i s o p r o p y l Adi p a t e C12-15 A1 k y l L a c t a t e T r i d e c y l Neopentanoate M y r i s t y 1 L a c t a t e I s o c e t y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e Hydrogen a t ed Po 1 y b u t e ri e I s o p r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n ( a n d )
B : D&C Red # 7 Ca lc ium Lake T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Ox ide (Cosmet ic Red) I r o n Ox ide (Cosmet ic Y e l l o w ) C : M ica B i srnuth O x y c h l o r i d e M ica ( a n d ) B ismuth O x y c h l o r i d e (and) Carmine
~ _ _ _ ~ ~~
B u t y l paraben
?/o b y Weigh t
7 . 4 6 . 2
1 0 . 3 2 . 0 3 . 1 7 . 2 7 . 2
1 0 . 0 11 . o 6 . 2
0 . 4
1 . 2 6 . 8 0 . 5 0 . 5
5 . 0 5.0
1 0 . 0
Procedure :
Cool t o 8 0 C . Add C . M ix 30 rn jnu tes and f i 11 . Heat A t o 95C u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 85C. Add B. M i x 30 m i n u t e s .
Petrolatum Stick/Lip Balm
Formula : Wh i te P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m (\Vi t c o ) Syncrowax HGLC Syncrowax ERLC
%-.!a .We i s h 2 3 5 . 0 1 2 . 0
3 . 0
Procedure : Combine t h e Wh i te P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m and t h e waxes. M i x
w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 8OC. Cool t o 65-706: and p o u r . C h i l l t h e molds t o 40C p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
54 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Enriched Emollient Liquid Makeup
The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum and C e l l u l o s e Gum i n t h i s f o r m u l a p r o v i d e s s y n e r g i s t i c r h e o l o g i c a l e f f e c t s i n c l u d i n g t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z a t i o n o f t h e emu ls ion and suspens ion o f t h e p igmen ts . The u n u s u a l l y h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s e v e r a l e m o l l i e n t s p r o v i d e s an e n r i c h e d l i q u i d makeup t h a t spreads smoo th l y and e a s i l y and c o v e r s we1 1 w i t h o u t t a c k y a f t e r f e e l .
I n a r e d i e n t : A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC-7MF) Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ( L i p o n i c EG-1) Me thy lpa raben
B : T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e T a l c I r o n Ox ides
C : I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e M i n e r a l O i 1 (and ) Lano l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-1 01 ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Hydrogenated Soy G l y c e r i d e (Myvero l 18-06) S t e a r i c A c i d D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and ) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and ) O c t y l
P a l m i t a t e (Wickeno l 161 ( 1 . 1 % by w t ) & Wickenol 163 ( 1 . 0 % by w t )
Vanseal CS , Cocoyl S a r c o s i ne L i t h i um S t e a r a t e P ropy lpa raben B u t y l paraben
W t .%* 0 .70 0 . 2 5
42.28 0 . 7 5
10 .50 0 . 3 0
10 .00 3 . 1 5 1 .97
10.00 6 .50 4 .00 2 .50 2 . 1 0 1 .60
2 . 1 0 1 . o o 0 .10 0 .10 0 . 1 0
Procedure :
a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. S l o w l y m i x i n r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t h o r o u g h l y i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70 t o 75C. Heat P a r t C t o 70 t o 75C and add t o P a r t s A+B. M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g .
Heat t h e w a t e r t o 70 t o 75C. Add t h e Veegum and m ix a t maximum
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R.T.Vanderbilt Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 433
Beauty Aids 55
Exfoliant Scrub
M a t e r i a1 : Water, Pure G l y c e r i n e BP L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres AEC I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e GMS s /e, A c i d S t a b l e ESO Vo lpo cs20 AEC C e t y l P a l m i t a t e AEC Decyl O l e a t e Carbopol 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Phenoni p S u p e r h a r t o l an F rag rance
Foermul a R e f . : 1051 *O
Exfoliating Foot Scrub
M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) AEC Corn Cob Granu les Veegum Regul a r Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne Cocamide CDE E . O . Peppermint B r o n i d o x L/15 EDTA, D i sodium S a l t C.S. FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5; 1% S o l n E . O . Tea T r e e C.S. FD&C B l u e No. 1; 1% S o l n Myacide SP L a c t i c Acid, N a t u r a l
Formula R e f . : 1202*0
SOURCE: A&E Connock L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
%w/w 6 8 . 5 0 0
5 . 0 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 3 .000 3.000 2.000 1 . o o o 0 . 8 0 0 0 .500 0 . 5 0 0 0 I 500 0 . 2 0 0
%w/w 44.810 40.000
5 .000 4 .000 3.000 2.000 0 . 2 0 0 0 .200 0 .200 0 .170 0 . 1 5 0 0 .135 0 . 1 0 0 0.035
56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Exfoliant Scrub
Staae M a t e r i a l : Quan t i t v Oil Phase: 1 L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l 5 . OOOg 2 AEC I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 5 . OOOg 3 GMS s / e , A c i d S t a b l e ESO 3 . OOOg 4 Vo lpo cs20 3 . OOOg 5 AEC Decyl O l e a t e 1 .ooog 6 AEC C e t y l P a l m i t a t e 2 . ooog 7 S u p e r h a r t o l an 0.5009 Aqueous Phase: 8 Water , Pure 68.5009 9 G l y c e r i n e BP 5 . OOOg 10 Carbopol 940 0,8009 11 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 0.5009 12 Phenonip 0.5009 Cool i ng C y c l e : 13 P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres 5 . OOOg 14 F r a g r a n c e 0 * 2oog M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
The O i l Phase i s added t o t h e Aqueous a t 70C w i t h m i x i n g . M i x i n g i s c o n t i n u e d w h i l e c o o l i n g , and t h e g e n t l y e x f o l i a t i n g P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres added be low 40C. Do n o t homogenise o r use h i g h shear m i x i n g a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres.
The h i g h e s t e r c o n t e n t base w i l l s o f t e n s k i n and a s s i s t t h e g e n t l e e x f o l i a t i n g a c t i o n o f t h e P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres. The spheres a r e a v a i l a b l e i n a v a r i e t y o f c o l o u r s making i t p o s s i b l e t o f o r m u l a t e v e r y i n t e r e s t i n g p r o d u c t s . SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : P r o j e c t JW 2461/Formula R e f . : 1051*0
Foaming Facial Cleanser
A r i c h p e a r l e s c e n t l o t i o n w i t h r a p i d f l a s h foaming and g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , wh ich l e a v e s t h e s k i n s o f t and smooth. P a r t : I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name) :
A Dei o n i zed Water 3 8 . 7 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 1 0 . 0 Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e , 56% ( W i t c o n a t e N I S ) 9 . 0 TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) 2 . 5 Cocamidopropyl Amine Ox ide (Mazox CAPA) 1 6 . 0
( Jo rdapon C I -75 ) 1 9 . 3
( B r a d p r i d e C h i p ) 2 . 5
B Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e (and ) S t e a r i c Ac id
Sodium T a l l o w a t e (and ) Sodium Cocoate
S t e a r i c A c i d ( H y s t r e n e 5016) 2 . 0 p H : 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 2 . 4 x 10 6 c p s F i r m w h i t e p a s t e
P rocedure : B l e n d t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o
80-85C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g temp- e r a t u r e . M i x a t t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d , abou t 30 m i n u t e s . S t i r - c o o l t o 40-45C and a d j u s t p H i f necessa ry .
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : Formula K-104
Beauty Aids 57
Exfoliating Foot Scrub
Staqg Mate-r l a 1 1 P r e - M i x 1 1 E . O . Tea T r e e 2 E . O . Peppermint 3 Cocami d o p r o p y l Beta1 ne
Stage A : 4 Water; Pure 5 Myacide S P 6 EDTA, D isod ium S a l t 7 Bror i idox L / l 5 8 Veegum Regu la r
Stage B : 9 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES)
Stage C : 1 0 AEC Corn Cob Granu les 11 Cocamide CDE 12 C . S . FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 ; 1% S o l n 1 3 C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1 ; 1 % S o l n 1 4 L a c t i c Ac id ; N a t u r a l
Quan t i ty
0 . 1 5 0 g 0 .200g 3 . O O O g
4 4 . 8 1 0 8 0 .1oog 0 .200g 0 .2009 0 . 4 0 0 g
4 0 . OOOg
5 . OOOg 2 . ooog 0 . 1 7 O g 0 . 1 3 5 9 0 , 0 3 5 9
M i x i ng I n s t r u c t i ons :
The Tea T ree o i l i s a n a t u r a l f u n g i c i d e , t h e pepperm in t o i l has a n a t u r a l c o o l i n g ac t . i on and t h e Corn Cob Granu les e x f o l i a t e rough and dead s k i n . 1 . Me te r o u t t h e w a t e r and s t a r t h e a t i n g . Add Myacide/EDTA/
B r o n i dox I
2 . C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g & d i s p e r s e t h e Veeyum; h e a t t o 60/65C t o o b t a i n a smooth p a s t e , s w i t c h o f f h e a t .
3 . W h i l e m i x i n g v e r y c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d foaming s l o w l y & c a r e - f u l l y add Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . T h i s b r i n g s t h e t e m p e r a t u r e down t o a p p r o x . 45C. C o n t i n u e m ix - i ng u n t i l a smooth p a s t e ( a b o u t 3 0 m i n s . ) .
4 . S e p a r a t e l y m i x t o g e t h e r Tea T ree /Pepperm in t O i l and Cocamido- p r o p y l B e t a i n e and add t o main m i x .
5 . W h i l e s t i l l l i q u i d s t i r i n t h e AEC Corn Cob Granu les f o l l o w e d by Cocamide DEA wh ich w i l l t h i c k e n t h e p r o d u c t .
6 . Match c o l o u r , a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 - 8 . 5 , s t i r u n t i l p r o d u c t t h i c k - ens t o a v o i d Corn Cob Granu les f l o a t i n g t o t h e s u r f a c e .
T h i s F o o t Sc rub has a c l e a n s i n y and g e n t l e e x f o l i a t i n g a c t i o n ,
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d , : P r o j e c t JW2566/Formula R e f . 1202*0
58 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Extra Light W/O Emulsion I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% O i l Phase: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and ) C e t y l D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l (and) Hexy l L a u r a t e (Ab i 1 WE-09) 4 . 0
C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o D i m e t h i c o n e (350 c s ) 1 . 0 Beeswax 0 . 2 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 0 . 2 Cyc lometh i cone 9 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4 . 0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 3 . 0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4 . 0 Water Phase: Water 7 2 . 8 NaCl 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , C o l o r , F rag rance Q.S. Procedure : 1 . Add t h e components o f t h e o i l phase t o g e t h e r . Heat t o m e l t
and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. When d i s p e r s e d , m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e O f 5 0 - 6 0 C .
2 . M i x t h e w a t e r and sodium c h l o r i d e . Heat t o 50-60C. 3 . W i t h l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s t r e a m t h e wa te r phase i n t o t h e o i l
phase. 4 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 35C. 5 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r homogenizer .
Pearlescent Eye ShadowI n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : T a l c S i l i c a Kaol i n M i c a I r o n Ox ides U1 t r a r n a r i ne 81 ue Me thy lpa raben P r o p y l p a r a b e n Phase 9: C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) Behenoxy D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 2440) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20 ) Cyc lometh i cone (and ) D i m e t h i c o n o l (and) D ime th i cone
F rag rance Procedure :
( A b i l OSW 12)
Wei a h t %
44.40 4 .00
14.00 8 . 0 0
18 .00 4 .00 0 . 2 5 0 . 1 5
4.20 1 . o o 0 .25
1 . 7 5 Q.S.
1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n a b l e n d e r . M i x u n t i 1
2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B . Warm i f necessa ry t o
3 . P r e s s i n t o g o d e t s . SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
u n i f o r m .
d i s p e r s e t h e A b i l Wax 2440. M i x . Add t o A . Reblend.
Beauty Aids 59
Eye Mascara
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages : T h i s mascara p r o v i d e s a q u i c k d r y i n g i n i t i a l e f f e c t . The
p r o d u c t i s s i l k y t o t h e l a s h e s and smudge p r o o f . O i l Phase: Wt% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7 . 5 0 PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7 . 5 0 G l y c e r o l Monos tea ra te (Wi t c o ) 2 . 7 5 Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . 0 0 S t e a r i c A c i d ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 . o o P a r a f f i n 150 /155 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 . 5 0 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne W445 (Wi t c o ) 1 . 5 0 P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0 . 3 0 Water Phase: Water (De i o n i zed) 58 .45 Sodium B o r a t e (Bo rax ) 1 . 2 0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (BASF) 1 . o o Carbopo l 2% S o l u t i o n ( B . F . Goodr i ch ) 1 . o o A 1 coho1 Phase: A l c o h o l SDA 30 (Quantum) 1 0 . 0 0 P u r i f i e d B l a c k Ox ide ( C l a r k e ) 4 . 0 0 P rocedure :
t o t h e wa te r phase. Cool t o 40C and add t h e p remixed a l c o h o l phase. C o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
A v a r i e t y o f p igmen ts can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t t h e p r o d u c t ' s needs. V i s c o s i t y can be a l t e r e d by r e d u c i n g s o l i d s and i n c r e a s i n g w a t e r phase.
Heat t h e o i l phase and wa te r phase t o 75C. Add t h e o i l phase
Powder Formula
Formul a t i ng Desi gn and Advantages : B i nder systems u t i 1 i z i n g t h e s i 1 i cone o i 1 /Cera A1 b a l a t e 103
g e l p roduces a d r y n o n - o i l y s k i n f e e l . These t y p e of p r o d u c t s a l s o have h i g h s t r u c t u r a l i n t e g r i t y and can w i t h s a t n d f i v e d r o p s f rom one t o two f e e t . B i n d e r : W32? S i l i c o n e O i l 3.45 (Dow) 6 0 . 0 Hexaned io l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4 0 . 0 Pressed Powder: Cosmetic Tan C33-130 (Sun Chemica l ) 1 3 . 0 T a l c ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 4 7 . 0 B i n d e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4 0 . 0 P rocedure :
Homogenize and p r e s s i n c o n t a i n e r a t 1000 p s i f o r 15-20 seconds. A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
sys tem. I n t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t , p igmen ts and c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f b i n d e r can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d t o p roduce v a r y i n g degrees o f c reaminess and f i r m n e s s o f t h e powder . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Gu ide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
O the r o i l s and /o r waxes can b e s u b s t i t u t e d i n t o t h e b i n d e r
60 Cosmetic and Toiletry Fornzulations
Eye Shadow
Phase# : 1 T a l c 141
L i t h i um s t e a r a t e K a o l i n 2457 M i c r o c e l E M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben B i r o n ESQ (BiOC1) C o n v e n t i o n a l P igments
W B q . s .
2 .50 5 . 0 0 0 .50 0 .20 0 .10
see b e l ow see b e l ow
2 P e a r l escen t Pigment see b e l ow
3 Amerchol L-1 01 3 Super H a r t o l an 3 W h i t e P e t r o l a t u m
11 - 0 0 1 .oo 1 .oo
P rocedure : Combine phase #1. P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e
t h r o u g h a 0 .027" h e r r i n g bone sc reen . A d d phase # 2 w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Combine phase #3. Heat t o 70C. Spray o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump gap.
Combi n a t i ons :
1 B i r o n ESQ 3 .00 1 B i r o n ESQ 3 .00 1 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide (7133) 5 . 0 0 1 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide (7133) 1 . 0 0 1 Red I r o n Ox ide (7054) 2 .00 1 Red I r o n O x i d e (7054) 5 .40 1 Y e l l o w I r o n Ox ide (7055)3 .00 1 Y e l l o w I r o n Ox ide (7055)3 .60 2 C o l o r o n a Chameleon 60.00 2 C o l o r o n a Sienna 60.00
P3-83-1 : P3-83-2:
P3-83-3: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3 .00 1 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide (7133) 0 .75 1 Red I r o n Ox ide (7054) 3 .00 1 Y e l l o w I r o n Ox ide (7055)6 .25 2 C o l o r o n a C o m e r 60.00 . . P3-83-5: 1 B i r o n ESQ 0 .20 1 B i c r o n a Carmine 1 4 . 0 0 2 C o l o r o n a Bordeaux 60.00
1 B i r o n ESQ 3 .00 1 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide (7133) 0 .50 1 Manganese V i o l e t (71 01 ) 2 . 0 0
P3-83-7:
P3-83-4: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide (7133) 0.50 1 Y e l l o w I r o n Ox ide (7055)9 .50 2 Co lo rona Bronze 60.00 P3-83-6: 1 B i r o n ESQ 0 .20 1 B i c r o n a I r o n B l u e 14 .00 2 C o l o r o n a Bordeaux 60.00 P3-83-8: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide (7133) 0 . 5 0
2 D i c h r o n a BG 5 5 . 0 0 1 Chromium H y d r a t e 2 . 0 0
2 C o l o r o n a Magenta 55 .00
1 B i r o n ESQ 2.60 P3-83-9:
1 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide (7133) 0 . 5 0 1 B i c r o n a I r o n B l u e 2.00 2 C o l o r o n a Dark B l u e 55.00
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n P3-83
Beauty Aids 61
Facial Cleanser with Pemulen TR-2 Polymer Emulsifier and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer
T h i s c l e a n s i n g f o r m u l a t i on i s 1 i g h t , non-greasy and w a t e r - r i n s a b l e . I t p r o v i d e s t h o r o u g h c l e a n s i n g w i t h o u t d r y i n g t h e s k i n .
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water M i r a n o l U l t r a D o w i c i l 200 Me thy lpa raben Propy lpa raben
P a r t 6: F i n s o l v SB Berne l E s t e r DOM C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e Wickenol 171 Pemulen TR-2 Carbopol U l t r e z 10
P a r t C : AMP-95
We igh t
8 9 . 5 5 1 . o o 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5
4 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 . o o 0 . 2 0 0 . 6 0
0 . 4 0
P rocedure : 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l wh ich w i l l c o n t a i n
t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x t o d i s s o l v e D o w i c i l 200. 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x t o
d i s p e r s e any s o f t lumps o f Pemulen and Carbopol p o l y m e r . 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add t h e P a r t B s l u r r y t o P a r t A .
M i x f o r 10-20 m i n u t e s t o a l l o w p o l y m e r s t o s w e l l . 4 . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p roduce a smooth, w h i t e
cream.
P r o p e r t i es : pH: 5 . 6 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y * ( cPs ) a t 25C: 28,000-35,000
* B r o o k f i e l d RVT @ 20 r p m , #6 s p i n d l e
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0368 sugges ted by 8. F.Goodr i ch (UOOOS)
62 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Facial Scrub
Phase: I n g r e d i e n t : Wt% A Carbomer 940 (2%) 15 .00 A D e i o n i z e d Water 57.75 A P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 2 .50 A A l o e Vera Gel 0 .25
B O i l s o f A loha Macadamia Nu t O i l 2 .50 B S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3 . 5 0
B Cyc lometh i cone 5 . 0 0
B Promulgen D 1 . oo B I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 10 .00 C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 1 . oo D P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-SA 1 . 5 0 E P r e s e r v a t i ve QS
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure : Phase A : D i s p e r s e Carbopo l i n t o wa te r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75C.
Phase 8 : Heat o i l phase t o 75C and add t o wa te r phase. Phase C : Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o o i l / w a t e r m i x t u r e and c o o l t o
Phase D/E : Add P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-SA. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e .
f o r p e o p l e w i t h o i l y s k i n and needs t o have a d r y i n g e f f e c t . Uses two v e r y d r y emollients-cyclomethicone and i s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e . They l e a v e a d r y f e e l i n g s k i n . The O i l s o f A loha Macadamia Nut O i l l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a f r e s h , m o i s t a f t e r f e e l . Kukui Nut O i l wou ld a l s o work v e r y w e l l i n t h i s f o r m u l a . SOURCE: O i 1 s o f A1 oha : Suggested Formul a t i on
Add P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and A l o e Vera G e l .
40C.
Carbomer 940 i s t h e suspend ing a g e n t . T h i s s c r u b i s des igned
Facial Cleansing Gel
WtOA, D e i o n i z e d Water 60 .90 Sodium PCA 0 .10 Carbomer 940 (2% Aq . ) 25.00 TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e 2 .oo Cocami de DEA (Phoenami d CD) 2 .50 S i l i c o n e Quatern ium-6 ( P e c o s i l SPB-1240) 2 .00 PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e (Phoenate BDSA) 1 .50 P ropy lene G l y c o l 5 .00 - 8: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and)
Me thy lpa raben (and ) P ropy lpa raben 1 . o o C o l o r q . s . Fragrance q . s . Procedure :
Combine Phase A i t e m s , a g i t a t e and h e a t t o 70C. When Phase A i s u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g under s low sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add Phase B w i t h c o n t i n u e d s low sweep a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y sweep AB u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: Phoen ix Chemical , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids 63
Gel with MPC-Liposomes
MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i d e Complex: MPC c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m m i l k , i n a c t i v a t e d
f o r m . A p r o t e c t i v e e n v i ronment e x c l u s i v e l y compr i sed o f m i 1 k components such as l a c t a l b u m i n , l a c t o g l o b u l i n , l a c t o f e r r i n , l a c t o s e and l a c t a t e p r o v i d e s f o r p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y and mai n tenance o f b i o a c t i v i t y . B i o a c t i v i t y i s s t a n d a r d i zed i n e v e r y b a t c h o f MPC t o a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e c o n c e n t r a t i o n range (EC50). I n v i t r o b i o a s s a y s i n c e l l c u l t u r e s and i n v i v o t e s t s on e p i t h e l i a l t i s s u e and on human s k i n g i v e p r o o f o f t h e b i o a c t i v i t y and c o s m e t i c b e n e f i t s o f MPC.
a) H i s p a g e l 200 Water , d i s t i 11 ed K e l t r o l , 1% s o l u t i o n C e t i o l J 600 Phenoni p
20.00 20.70 30 .00
4 . 0 0 0.30
b ) MPC-Liposomes (2% MPC) 2 5 . 0 0
M a n u f a c t u r e : M i x a ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; S l o w l y add b ) t o a ) and combine. Perfume.
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Formula
Body Moisturiser with Wild Borage Oil
M a t e r i a l : Water; Pure P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP AEC Decyl O l e a t e Cocoa B u t t e r , Ref i ned Tego Care 450 AEC D i i s o s t e a r y l T r i m e t h y l o l p r o p a n e S i l o x y S i 1 i c a t e GMS NSE Sodium PCA C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l W i I d Borage O i 1 N i paguard BPX F rag rance Xanthan Gum L a c t i c A c i d ; N a t u r a l
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : Formula R e f . : 1052*0
%w/w 76.560
5 . 0 0 0 4 .000 3 . 0 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 2 .000 1 . 5 0 0 1 . o o o 1 . o o o 0.500 0 . 3 0 0 0 . 1 2 5 0 . 0 1 5
64 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Body Moisturizer Formu 1 a : % bv Weight A : Benol M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) 7 . 0 0 E s t o l EHP 1543 2 . oo P r i s t e r i ne 4904 3 .50 E s t o l 1462 3 . 0 0 M y r j 52 1 . o o A b i l B8852 1 . o o L a n o l i n O i 1 0 .20 B: Dei o n i zed Water 79 .60 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 . 3 0 P r i c e r i ne 9083 2 .00 Dermacryl -79 1 . o o C : Carbopol 934 0 .20 D : Germaben 1 1 - E 1 - 0 0 E: F rag rance 04696 (Ques t ) 0 . 2 0 P rocedure :
Combine A i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C. I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m ix w a t e r , P r i c e r i n e and TEA. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add D e r m a c r y l . Heat t o 50C and add C s l o w l y . When each p o r t i o n i s u n i f o r m , add A t o B/C and m i x 15 m i n s . ; c o o l t o 40C. Add D and E and cool t o room temp.
____
Liquid Makeup-__-_ Fo rmu la : "/,by Weight A : G e l w h i t e GP 1 . 2 K e l t r o l Xanthan Gum 0 . 2 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 3 . 0 T r i e thano lami ne 1 . o Water 5 8 . 4 E : I r o n Ox ides 1 . 2 T a l c 3 . 0 T i t a n i um D i o x i de 6 . 0 C : C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) 10 .0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 5 . 0 N i m l e s t e r o l D M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0 O l e i c A c i d 6 . 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e s 9 , s . Procedure :
S l o w l y add G e l w h i t e CP t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum s h e a r . Add K e l t r o l s l o w l y and m i x a t moderate speed u n t i l smooth. Add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and TEA w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h medium s h e a r . B l e n d B and g r i n d i n m o r t a r w i t h a p o r t i o n o f A u n t i l w e l l m ixed . Combine w i t h rema inder o f A and h e a t t o 60C. Combine C and h e a t t o 65C. Add C t o A/B; c o n t i n u e s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l temp. d r o p s t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . SOURCE : W i t c o Corp, : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Beauty Aids 65
Lipcare Emollient Lipstick
Phase A : Anhydrous 1 ano l i n P95 Argonol 50 M i n e r a l o i l Beeswax C e t y l a l c o h o l O z o k e r i t e Candel i 11 a wax P r e s e r v a t i v e
Phase 0 : C o l o u r p igmen ts i n c a s t o r o i l : T i t a n i um d i o x i d e D&C r e d 6 T i m i c a p e a r l w h i t e
Phase C : F rag rance o r f 1 avour
%w/w 1 4 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 4 0 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 8 . 0 0
q s
5 . 0 0 1 .oo 4 .00
Heat t o g e t h e r A u n t i l c l e a r , add B and m i x w e l l . A d j u s t t o
*A g l o s s y l i p s t i c k w i t h good s p r e a d a b i l i t y . 60C, t h e n add C . Pour i n t o moulds.
Medicated Lip Balm
Beeswax USP P a r a f f i n wax 130/135 F i n s o l v TN AC P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Camphor
%w/w 10.00 1 0 . 0 0 54.00
6 .00 20 * 00
Combine t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 90-95C w h i l e m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 80-85C. Add t h e camphor and m ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Cool once more, t o 40-45C. P o u r i n t o moulds.
i m p a r t s a non-greasy, emo l l i e n t f e e l t o chapped 1 i p s .
SOURCE: A1 1 i ed-Si gna l , I n c . : Suggested Formul a t i ons
*A s o l i d w h i t e s t i c k t h a t r u b s e a s i l y o n t o t h e l i p s . I t
66 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
LipcareLip Pomade
Phase A : Anhydrous Lanol i n P95 Lanesta S P e t r o l e u m j e l l y M i n e r a l o i l O z o k e r i t e I r o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e P a r a f f i n wax
xw/w 10 .00 18.00 1 2 . 0 0 38 .00
5 . 0 0 10 .00
7 - 0 0
Phase B: Fragrance o r f 1 avour
Heat phase A u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 45C t h e n add 0 . F i l l warm.
* T h i s g i v e s a ' b u t t e r - l i k e ' p r o d u c t , wh ich l i q u e f i e s on c o n t a c t w i t h t h e s k i n , making a p p l i c a t i o n easy and g i v i n g emol 1 i e n t p r o t e c t i o n .
Lip Gloss
Phase A : Argono l 50 Argono l ACE 5 Carnauba wax Ozoker i t e Candel i 11 a wax C a s t o r o i l
Phase 8: C o l o u r d i s p e r s e d i n c a s t o r o i l
Phase C : F ragrance o r f 1 avour
%w/w 8 .10 3.00 3.60 7 . 0 0 6 . 0 0
t o 100.00
Heat t o g e t h e r A u n t i l c l e a r , t h e n add B, s t i r r i n g w e l l u n t i l
*A s o f t , smooth g l o s s t h a t p r o t e c t s , smoothes and g i v e s a f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . Cool t o 50C and add C . F i l l warm.
1 i g h t col o u r a
SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 67
Lip Salve with Glycyrrhetinic Acid
PEG-45/dodecyl g l y c o l copolymer Beeswax J o j o b a o i l Hydrogenated 1 ano l i n Cocoa b u t t e r Cas to r o i l A n t i o x i d a n t s G1 ycami 1 G1 y c y r r h e t i n i c a c i d Z i n c o x i d e T i t a n i um d i o x i d e F1 avour
%w/w 2 5 . 0 0
5 .00 2 .50 5 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 25.00
0 . 0 5 qs
0 . 5 0 10 .00
1 - 0 0 q s
M e l t t h e f i r s t seven i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add G l y c a m i l and t h e g l y c y r r h e t i n i c a c i d . D i s p e r s e t h e ZnO and T i 0 2 i n t h e m e l t e d i n g r e d i e n t s . F i n a l 1 y J add t h e f 1 avour m i x i ng u n t i 1 room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Lip Salve Sunscreen
Candel i 11 a wax W h i t e beeswax E u t a n o l G L i p e x 2 0 5 c a n o l a o i 1 C e t y l a l c o h o l L i p e x 102 shea b u t t e r C i t m o l 316 TM L i p e x 106 I l l i p e ' b u t t e r P a r s o l MCX L i p e x 104 L i p e x 203 mango k e r n a l o i 1 Benzophenone-3 P r o p y l paraben
%w/w 21 . o o 15 .00 10 .65 10.25 10 .00
8 . 5 0 6 .50 6.00 5 . 0 0 4 .00 2 .50 0 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
Heat t o g e t h e r a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l c l e a r . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 60C and c o o l .
Lip Fix
E t h a n o l Dei o n i sed w a t e r Gan t rez ES-425
S imp le m i x .
SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
%w/w 7 0 . 0 0 10 .00 2 0 . 0 0
68 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lipstick
Phase # : 1 C a s t o r O i l 1 C19-011 D&C Red#7 Ca Lake 1 C19-022 D&C Red#6 Ba Lake
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
C a s t o r O i l Candel i 11 a Carnauba O z o k e r i t e #77W M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax #214 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e M i n e r a l O i 1/9Ocs O c t y l Dodecyl S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e O c t y l Dodecanol H y d r o x y l a t e d Lanol i n M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben
wt% 7 .00 1 . 5 0 1 . 5 0
33.70 5 .70 1 . 8 0 1 .50 3 . 0 0
16 .00 2 - 0 0 5 .00 5 .00 1 . o o 0 . 2 0 0 .10
3 P e a r l escen t Pigment 15.00
P rocedure : Combine phase #l. S t i r w i t h a h i g h i n t e n s i t y m i x e r u n t i l
homogeneous. Pass a c r o s s a t h r e e r o l l m i l l u n t i l agg lomera tes a r e reduced t o l e s s t h a n 25 um. Combine phase #2. Heat t o 80-85C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add phase #1 . Add p e a r l e s c e n t p igmen t (phase # 3 ) , mai n t a i n i ng a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Pour i n t o ambient t e m p e r a t u r e molds a t 72-74CI
Rona P e a r l Pigment Comb ina t ions : AN2-55-1 : T i m i r o n Super Red AN2-55-2 : T i m i r o n Super 61 ue AN2-55-3: T im i r o n Super G o l d AN2-55-4 : T i m i r o n MP-1001 AN2-55-5: T i m i r o n MP-1500 AN2-55-6: Col o rona Red Go1 d AN2-55-7: C o l o r o n a Red Brown
Wax M e l t i n g P o i n t s : C a n d e l l i l a : 68.5-72.5C Carnauba: 83C m i n i mum O z o k e r i t e #77W: 73.3-79.4C M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax #214: 71 .1-76.7C
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n AN2-55
Beauty Aids 69
Lip Stick
I ng r ed i e n t s : Wei n h t % A . M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l / D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 10 .00
S o f t i san 649* 4 . 0 0 Beeswax M i n e r a l O i l C a s t o r O i l Carnaubawax T i m i r o n S i l k Red S i c o r e t Rot F 12150 A n t i o x i d a n t i e n
9 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
60.00 5 . 0 0 9 - 0 0 1 . o o
Q . S .
B. F rag rance 9 , s .
*Bi s-Di g l y c e r y l Pol y a c y l a d i pa te -2
P r e p a r a t i o n : A i s m e l t e d and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. A t 50C B i s added and t h e mass i s pou red i n t o molds a t c a . 40C F o r m u l a t i o n HUK LST
Lip Care Stick with Sunscreen
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . S o f t i s a n 100
S o f t i san 649* D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) Beeswax Carnaubawax Neo H e l i o p a n E 1000 C a s t o r O i l
Wei n h t % 40.00 1 4 . 0 0 12.00 1 5 . 0 0
2 .00 2 . 0 0
15 .00
B. F rag rance q . s .
* B i s -Di g l y c e r y l Pol y a c y l a d i pa te -2
P r e p a r a t i on : A i s m e l t e d and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. A t 50C B i s added and t h e mass i s p o u r e d i n t o molds a t c a . 40C. Formul a t i on HUK LCST
SOURCE: H u l s A k t i engesel l s c h a f t : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
70 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lipstick, Glossy
Ingredients: WeIght%A) Miglyol Gel B (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
Stearalkoniurn Hecton'te (and) Propylene Carbonate) 14.00Miglyol 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride) 8.00Imwitor 78OK (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) 6.00Softisan 645 (Bis-Diglycery1 Polyacry1adipate-1) 22.00Polyisobutene 19.00Lanoli n Wax 10.OONa-Stearate 1 .00C a n d e l i l i a Wax 8.00Beeswax 7.00
B) Timiron Starlight Red (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide) 5.00
Preparati on:(A) is melted and stirred until homogeneous up to 75
degrees C. At about 50 degrees C. (B) is added, and then themixture is poured into molds.
Formulation 2.20
Lip Stick
I ngredi ents: Weight%A) Miglyol 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/
Dicaprate) 10.00Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglycery1 Polyacy1adipate-2) 4.00Beeswax 9.00Mi neral Oil 2.OOCastor O i l 60.OOCarnauba Wax 5.OOTimiron S i l k Red (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide) 10.00Antioxidants q.s.
B) Fragrance Tendresse 75418 B q.s.
Preparati on i(A) is melted and stirred u n t i l homogeneous. At 50 degrees C,
(B) is added and the mass is poured into molds.Formulation 2.2P
SOURCE: HuIs America Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids 71
Lipstick "Soft and Moist" (Modified)
M a t e r i a l s : 1 . O z o k e r i t e W h i t e 170 2 . Castorwax 3 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax, L i g h t R e f i n e d 4 . Lexo l PG 855 5 . C a s t o r O i l 6 . Propy lparaben 7. Tenox 4 8 . Bentone Gel CAO R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 9 . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 10.Per fume
*Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : C a s t o r O i l C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6
% by Weight 4 . 0 2 . 0 8 . 0
31 - 3 24.0
0 . 1 0 . 1
1 0 . 0 20 .0
0 . 5
30 .00 70 .00
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m e 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 80C. Add and mix i n i t e m 8 u s i n g
a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 80C. 3 . Add and mix i t e m 9 f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o
70C and add i t e m 10. Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l congealed, o r pour i n t o t r a y s .
5 . When c a s t i n g , m e l t and p o u r m o l t e n mass i n t o mold a t 75C, w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n ( a v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t ) .
Note : For a s h i n y p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p s t i c k , t h e s t i c k s s h o u l d be s u r f a c e f l a m e d .
Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s l o w speed
2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes o v e r a 3 r o l l m i l l a t
SOURCE: Rheox I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Hobar t t y p e m i x e r and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Lipstick Base
W t % - 1 W t % - 2 A-C 617 8 7 A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n 16 16 2 - E t h y l Hexy l S t e a r a t e 6 7 O z o k e r i t e 20 20 M i n e r a l O i l (75 SS) 50 50 Procedure :
c l o u d p o i n t s w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n . ( B l e n d s 1 & 2 have c l o u d p o i n t s o f 80 & 79C r e s p e c t i v e l y ) . Once b l e n d i s c l e a r t h e m i x t u r e can be c o o l e d and packaged. SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Weigh o u t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat m i x t u r e s l i g h t l y above t h e i r
72 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lipstick with A-C 400, No. 162
1 . T i 0 2 i n C a s t o r O i l (40% p i g m e n t ) 2 . Red 6 i n C a s t o r O i l (25% p i g m e n t ) 3 . Red 7 i n C a s t o r O i l (25% p i g m e n t ) 4 . C a s t o r O i l ( e x t r a ) 5 . P o l y b u t e n e H-100
7 . E u t a n o l G 8 . R e f i n e d L a n o l i n 9 . Candel i 11 a 1 0 . P o l y g l y c e r y l d i - i s o s t e a r a t e (Emerest 2452)
6 . A-C 400A
%w/w 1 . 8
1 4 . 3 1 0 . 8
3 . 3 9 . 3 4 . 7
2 3 . 3 9 . 3
1 3 . 0 10 .2
P rocedure :
i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r , h e a t and m i x t o 93C. Cool t o 85C and p o u r t h e m i x t u r e i n t o t h e mo lds .
NOTE: T h i s s t i c k was f l a m e d . W i t h o u t f l a m i n g i t wou ld n o t be as g l o s s y . To make i t more m a t t e , reduce p o l y b u t e n e t o 546, and i n c r e a s e No. 7 b y 2%, No. 8 b y 0.5%, No. 9 by 1%, and No. 1 0 by 1.5%. P r e s e r v a t i v e and a n t i - o x i d a n t as m i n o r amounts s h o u l d n o t be a p rob lem.
The p igmen t c a s t o r o i l b l e n d s a r e p r e d i s p e r s e d . Weigh a l l
Lip Gloss
1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 .
2 - e t h y l h e x y l s t e a r a t e C a s t o r o i l
L a n o l i n a l c o h o l 01 e y l a1 coho1 Perfume Brown umber shade 1985 Brown r e d shade 1654 P r e s e r v a t i v e
A-C 400
%w/w 51 ,175 15 20
5 8 0 . 7 5 0.025 0 . 0 5 q.s.
Procedure : A . D i s p e r s e p igmen t i n 0.225% c a s t o r o i 1 . 6. M i x t h e r e m a i n i n g 1 ,2 ,3 ,4 ,5 and h e a t t o 85-9OC w i t h s t i r r i n g
u n t i 1 t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e has c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p igmen t m i x t u r e t o i t .
C . M i x s l o w l y , add per fume a t 50-55C and d e - a e r a t e . Pour i n t o molds o r c o n t a i n e r s and a l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 73
Liquid Make-Up
Formul a t i n g Desi gn and Advantages :
and l e a v e s a smooth and s i l k y a f t e r - f e e l . I t w i l l a l s o reduce t r a n s e p i d e r m a l w a t e r 1 oss .
T h i s make-up c o v e r s n i c e l y y e t i t i s v e r y l i g h t on t h e s k i n
O i l Phase: Hexaned io l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( L e x o l ) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow C o r n i n g ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( L e x o l ) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Uni chema) O y s t e r Nut O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: D e i o n i z e d Water Xanthan Gum ( K e l c o ) C e l l u l o s e Gum (Aqua lon ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow C o r n i n g ) G1 y c e r i n (Uni chema) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (BASF) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (BASF) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Pigment Phase: O p t a t i n t T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( C o l o r c o n ) Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) Brown I r o n Ox ide ( C l a r k C o l o r s ) Y e l l o w I r o n O x i d e ( C l a r k C o l o r s )
Wt% 0 . 5 0 2 .00 4 . 0 0 2 .00 1.50 1 . o o 0 . 3 0
59.60 0 . 4 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 7 0 2 .00 2 . 0 0 0 . 6 0 0 .30
13 .00 2 . 0 0 2 . 3 0 2 . 3 0 2 . 2 0 1 . o o
P rocedure : Heat p igmen t phase u n t i l m e l t e d , s t i r r i n g t o b r e a k up any
g l o b u l e s . L e t c o o l . Reheat and m e l t a g a i n s t i r r i n g g l o b u l e s . Add t o t h e p r e h e a t e d o i l phase a t 75C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e 75C h e a t e d w a t e r phase under v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . C o o l .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Smal l amounts o f sunscreen may be added t o r e p l a c e t h e o i l s .
The o i l may be reduced t o g i v e an even l i g h t e r f e e l . Replacement o f O y s t e r Nut O i l w i t h P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e w i l l make t h i s f o r m u l a an o i l f r e e p r o d u c t .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
74 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Makeup
I n s r e d i e n t : A : D e i o n i z e d Water
B: Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7H3SF)
C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l L e c i t h i n Me thy lpa raben
D : T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e M i c a (and) S i l i c o n D i o x i d e (Cashmir K-11) T a l c ( M i c r o Ace P-2) I r o n Oxides S i 1 i ca (Spheron P-1500)
E: C e t y l A l c o h o l G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o GMS 450) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( L i p o IPP) S t e a r i c A c i d C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L i p o n a t e GC) I s o e i c o s a n e (Permethy l 102A) I s o s t e a r i c Acid (Emerol 871)
F: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% P r o p y l p a r a b e n I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germa l l 115)
W t .%* 48.83
0 . 5 0 0 . 1 5
5.00 1 . o o 0.20
9 .00 2 . 0 0 2.00 1 .40 0 .50
1 . 0 0 0 .80 4 .00 0 . 8 0 6.00
12.50 2 . 4 0
1 .62 0 .10 0 . 2 0
P rocedure : Dry b l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e
m i x i n g w i t h a homogenizer f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75C. Add t h e P a r t C and P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown m i x i n g each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Check t o make s u r e t h e p igmen ts a r e u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l m ix and h e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75C. When b o t h phases a r e a t 75C, add t h e P a r t E t o P a r t s A+B+C+D. M i x f o r 15-20 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l i n g w i t h s l o w speed m i x i n g . A t 50C add t h e P a r t F i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l e m i x i n g a t s l o w speed.
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m P r e s p e r s e , I n c .
Beauty Aids 75
Luxurious Makeup
Formula: % by WeIghtA:Veegum 1,20Water 37.90Magnesium Sulfate 0.40B:Talc 5.50Kaolin 1.50Titanium Dioxide 5.00Iron Oxides 3.00C;Carnation Mineral Oil (Witco) 15.00Polysynlane (Polyesther) 8.00Ritachol 8.00Lanapene (Lanaetex) 7.0070% Sorbitol Solution 5.00Witcamide 511 (Witco) 1.50
Preservatives q.s.
Procedure:Add Veegum to water slowly, agitating continually u n t i l
smooth. Grind B and add to A 1 m i x i n g until uniform. Add A and Bto C and mix until smooth and uniform.
Cleansing Milk
£p_rmuIa : %_by. Wejjgh.tLanolin Anhydrous 5.0Propylene Glycol Monostearate 3.0Polysynlane (Polyesther) 38.0I.P.M. 4.0Paraffin Wax 4.0Beeswax 16.0Potassium Hydroxide 0.7Carnation Mineral Oil 3,0Perfume and Preservatives q.s.Water to 100.0
SOURCE: Witco Corp.; Suggested Formulations
76 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Makeup Foundation I n a r e d i e n t : A : 8:
C :
D:
E:
D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e Xanthan Gum N y l o n - I 2 (Orgaso l 2002 D E x t r a N a t u r a l Cos) Sodium PCA ( A j i d e w N-50) Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l I r o n Ox ides (and) T a l c T i t a n i um D i o x i d e G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Cerasyn t GMS) S t e a r i c A c i d DEA-Cetyl Phosphate (Amphi so l ) Me thy lpa raben (and) B u t y l p a r a b e n (and ) E t h y l p a r a b e n
I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e /
S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (Geahlene)
(and ) P ropy lpa raben ( N i p a s t a t )
Phenoxyethanol (Emeressence 1160) Tocophero l A c e t a t e
W t .%* 46.50
0.80 0 . 3 0 1 . 2 0 1 . o o
10.00 7 .00 2 . 5 5 5.60 2 .oo 2.00 2 . 0 0
0 .25 3 .00
15.00 0 . 7 0 0 .10
Dry b l e n d t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and add them t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a homogenizer a t 5000 rpm f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m ix each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r homogenize t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l smooth. Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C and m i x 10 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. Heat t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80C and m i x u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t E t o t h e main b a t c h and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t s l o w speed w h i l e c o o l i ng t o 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
I n g r e d i e n t : W t .%* A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 .50 B: D e i o n i z e d Water 3 0 . 7 8 C: PVP (PVP K-30) 0 . 2 2
Hydro1 yzed K e r a t i n ( Kera-Tei n 1000 SD) 1 - 0 0 K e r a t i n A m i no A c i d s ( Kera-Tei n AA) 0.50 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5 .00
D: P e t r o l a t u m 3.00 P e t r o l e u m D i s t i 11 a t e s 32 .00 Carnauba Wax 5.00 S y n t h e t i c Beeswax 5 .00 Candel i 11 a Wax 3.00 P a r a f f i n 2 .50 Oleamide DEA 5 .00
E : I r o n O x i d e (C33-134 Cosmet ic B l a c k ) 5 . 5 0 F: P r e s e r v a t i v e 4 . S .
a t 5000 rpm. Add P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown m i x i n g each 3 m i n u t e s b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . Heat P a r t s A+B+C t o 75C. M i x and h e a t P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80C. Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C and m ix 10 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t E and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . Beg in c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 40C add P a r t F. M ix & c o o l . SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o o , Inc.: Formulas: Penreco 8, Maybrook
Lash-Conditioning Mascara
Add P a r t A t o P a r t 6 and m ix w i t h a homogenizer f o r 20 m i n u t e s
Beauty Aids 77
Make-up Remover
0 . I . Water Sodi um B o r a t e Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic M i n e r a l O i l Beeswax USP Lanol i n Drewpol 10-1 0-0 OMDM H y d a n t o i n
% b y Weiaht Q.S. t o 100 .0
0.60 40.00 2.00 10.00 1-00 2.50 0.25
M i x i ng P rocedure : P repare w a t e r phase by a d d i n g t o g e t h e r D . I . Water and Sodium
B o r a t e . S t a r t m i x i n g . When t h e r e a r e no c r y s t a l s , s t a r t h e a t i n g t o 160-165F. Prepare o i l phase by comb in ing Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic , M i n e r a l O i l , Beeswax USP, L a n o l i n , and Drewpol 10-10-0. Heat t o 165-17OF. Add w a t e r phase i n t o o i l phase w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 25-30 m i n u t e s a t 165-17OF. Cool t o 11OF. Add DMDM H y d a n t o i n . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
AHA Facial Cleanser
D. I. Water G l y c e r i n EDTA B i o-Terge AS-40 Amphosol CG Avanel S-150 S a l i c y l i c Ac id
% by Weight Q.S. t o 100.0
2.5 0 . 2 30.0 20.0 6.5 1 . o
M i x i ng P rocedure :
and m ix w e l l . I n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x Avanel S-150 and S a l i c y l i c A c i d , making s u r e a l l c r y s t a l s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p r e m i x t o t h e b a t c h . M i x w e l l . Check p H ( 4 . 0 ) and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y , i f necessa ry .
SOURCE: Stepan Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Add w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , EDTA, B io -Te rge AS-40, and Amphosol CG
78 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mascara Remover
A smooth l u b r i c a t i n g c l e a n s e r f o r t h e removal o f mascara.
Sequence: Raw M a t e r i a l : 1 L i p o v o l MOS-70* 1 L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 1 Uniphen P-23 2 L i p o s o r b L-20 2 L i p o n i c EG-1
P e r c e n t 82.45 15.00 0 . 3 0 1 . 2 5 1 . o o
* P a t e n t #4,659,573
Room Temperature P rocedure : 1 . Add Sequence #1 i n o r d e r of a d d i t i o n w h i l e m i x i n g a t medium
2 . Premix Sequence #2 and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h overhead m i x e r speed w i t h overhead m i x e r .
a t medium speed.
SOURCE: L i p o Chemicals Inc, : Formula No. 900
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow
Formul a : A : T a l c Z i n c S t e a r a t e I r o n Ox ide ( B l a c k ) A n t i m i c r o b i a l Mear lm ica SVA ( M e a r l ) Gemstone Moonstone GO04 B: A n t i o x i d a n t C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) C : Gemstone Moonstone GO04
% by Weight
2 5 . 0 0 3 .00 4 . 0 0
1 5 . 0 0 3 5 . 0 0
q . s .
q . s . 8 . 0 0
q . s .
P rocedure : T h o r o u g h l y b l e n d and d i s p e r s e A . Add B i n t o s u p p o r t v e s s e l .
Heat and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Spray B i n t o A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE : W i t c o Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i on
Beauty Aids 79
Medicated Lip Balm
Beeswax P a r a f f i n wax AC 617 F i n s o l v TN C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate
Combine & h e a t t o 95C. Cool t o 80C - add
Camphor
Pour i n t o room temp mo lds .
Lip Stick Base
C a s t o r O i l Po l ybu tene H100 AC 400 A R e f i n e d Lano l i n Candel i 11 a E u t a n o l G ( O c t y l Dodecanol ) Pol y g l y c e r y l D i -i s o s t e a r a t e
o/ow/w 1 0 . 0 0 10.00
6 . 0 0 54.00
2 0 . 0 0
%w/w 2 5 . 0 1 0 . 0
5 . 0 1 0 . 0 1 4 . 0 2 5 . 0 11 . o
P rocedure :
t h a t t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e i s homogeneous w i t h t h e b l e n d . B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 92-95C. Ho ld , t o be s u r e
Lipstick Base
1 I A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 2 . A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n 3 . 2 - E t h y l h e x y l S t e a r a t e 4 . O z o k e r i t e 64W 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 s s .
Procedure :
When w e l l mixed, c o o l t o 85C and pour i n t o molds. Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o l O O C , w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
R e f : 4676-48-8
%w/w 8 . 0
1 6 . 0 6 . 0
2 0 . 0 5 0 . 0
SOURCE: A1 1 i ed-Si gna l , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
80 Cosinetic and Toiletry Formulations
Men's Active Wrinkle Smoother
T h i s s o f t cream, wh ich c o n t a i n s U V - f i l t e r s , i s absorbed i n s t a n t l y and i s s u i t a b l e f o r men's s k i n . The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Dismut in-BT and Lac tomide e x e r t s p r o t e c t i n g , s k i n - f i r m i n g and a n t i - i n f l a m m a t o r y a c t i v i t y .
Item 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 1 1 12 13
I n g r e d i e n t s A ) A r l a t o n e 985
B r i j 721 A r l a m o l HD P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l MCX 344 S i l i c o n F l u i d
B) D e i o n i z e d Water Phenon i p A t l a s G-2330 El h i b i n Lactomi de
C) D i smut i n-BT F r a g r a n c e : Vulcano 0/242294
Wei g h t % 5.00 3.00 10.00 1-00 2.00 1 . o o
67 I 90 0.50 3 IO0 3.00 3.00 0.30 0.30
Procedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add i t e m s 12 and 13, one a f t e r a n o t h e r . A p p l i c a t i o n N o . A 035.0/02.96
Skin Tightening Gel
T h i s c l e a r , s o l i d g e l e x h i b i t s immed ia te s k i n t i g h t e n i n g p r o p e r t i e s and smoothens t h e f i n e w r i n k l e s on t h e s k i n . An i d e a l f r e s h - u p f o r an e v e n i n g a f t e r a t i r i n g d a y .
Itern I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 A) D e i o n i z e d Water 2 Phenoni p 3 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 4 Glucam E 10 5 Carbopol 940 6 B) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 7 C) Pentacare-HP
Procedure : D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n w a t e r (I). Under v i g o r o u s s t i r r i ng i n c o r p o r a t e i tern 5. N e u t r a l i z e w i t h i t e m 6. F i n a l l y add i t e m 7. A c l e a r , s o l i d g e l i s o b t a i n e d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 032.0/06.93
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Weight% 87.95 0.30 0.20 5.00 0.75 0.80 5.00
Beauty Aids 81
Moisturizing Gel
T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g g e l l e a v e s a n o n - t a c k y m o i s t u r i z i n g f i l m on t h e s k i n . The Hypan f u n c t i o n s as a m o i s t u r i z i n g f i l m f o r m e r and he1 ps
S e q u e E c . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 4 5 6 6
p r o v i d e an e l e g a n t f e e l I
Raw M a t e r i a l : Dei o n i zed Water Uniphen P-23 Me thy lpa raben Hampene Na2T Panthenol G l y c e r i n e Hexyl ene G1 y c o l L i p o n i c EG-1 Hypan SA l O O H Carbopol ETD 2001 (2% s o l ' n ) Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d Dei o n i zed Water U n i c i d e U-13
P e r c e n t 73.90
0 . 3 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 0 5 0 . 5 0 1 .50 1 . o o 0 . 5 0 0 . 1 5
17.50 1 . o o 0 . 6 5 1 . 5 0 1 - 0 0 0 . 2 5
P rocedure : 1 . Premix and h e a t Sequence #1 t o 80C w i t h overhead m i x e r a t
2 . Premix i n t o s l u r r y , Sequence #2 and add t o Sequence #1 a t 80C
3 . Heat Sequence #3 t o 70C and add t o b a t c h b r i n g i n g t e m p e r a t u r e
4. M i x Sequence #4 and add t o b a t c h a t 80C w i t h overhead m i x e r
5 . Cool b a t c h t o 55C and add Sequence #5 on overhead m i x e r w i t h
6 . Cool b a t c h t o 35C and add p remixed Sequence #6. 7 . Cool t o 25C.
SOURCE: Li po Chemicals I n c . : Formula No. 839
medi um speed w i t h p r o p e l 1 e r b l a d e .
w i t h overhead m i x e r a t medium speed.
back t o 80C on overhead m i x e r .
a t medium/high speed.
p r o p e l 1 e r b l ade.
82 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Lip Balm
Formu 1 a : Candel i 11 a Wax Carnauba Wax M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax ( W i t c o ) S y n t h e t i c Beeswax PEG-75 Cocoa B u t t e r C 1 e a r l an Lanol i n A c e t a t e E s t e r L a n o l i n O i l M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben BHA C a s t o r O i l
% by Weight 7 .00 2 . 0 0 1 . 0 0 1 .50 5 * 00 7 .00
10 .00 5 . 0 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 2 5 0 . 0 5
60.70
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 75-8OC.
M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e a t 8OC w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c l e a r and m o l t e n . Pour i n t o s t i c k s a t 75-8OC. T h i s p r o d u c t i s d e s i g n e d t o i m p a r t a s o f t , m o i s t u r i z e d f e e l t o l i p s and t o p r o v i d e a l i g h t g l o s s y e f f e c t . I t can be worn a l o n e o r o v e r l i p c o l o r f o r s h i n e .
Lipstick
____ Formula: Lexemul 515 C a s t o r O i l C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) Pigment W h i t e P r o t o p e t I S ( W i t c o ) Carnauba Wax Lexgard P
% by Weigh t 42 .00 36.80
8 . 0 0 5.00 4 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
Procedure: M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r and m ix u n t i l homogeneous. Pour
i n t o molds and c o o l . Lexemul 515 c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h i s f o r m u l a ' s s o f t n e s s and s p r e a d a b i l i t y .
SOURCE : W i tco Corp, : Suggested Formul at i ons
Beauty Aids 83
MPC - Milk Peptide Complex
MPC c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m m i l k , i n a c t i v a t e d fo rm. A p r o t e c t i v e env i ronmen t e x c l u s i v e l y compr i sed o f m i 1 k components such as l a c t a l b u m i n , l a c t o g l o b u l i n , l a c t o f e r r i n , l a c - t o s e and l a c t a t e p r o v i d e s f o r p r o d u c t s t a b i 1 i t y and mai n tenance o f b i o a c t i v i t y . B i o a c t i v i t y i s s t a n d a r d i z e d i n e v e r y b a t c h o f MPC t o a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e c o n c e n t r a t i o n range (EC50). I n v i t r o b i o a s - says i n c e l l c u l t u r e s and i n v i v o t e s t s on e p i t h e l i a l t i s s u e and on human s k i n g i v e p r o o f o f t h e b i o a c t i v i t y and c o s m e t i c b e n e f i t s o f MPC.
Anti Cellulite Emulsion, Type O/W with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex
I n g r e d i e n t s : a ) Emulgade 1000 N I
L a n e t t e 16 M y r i t o l 318 Phenoni p
b ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Carbopol 934
c ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
d ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Na3-Ci t r a t e , anhydrous MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Complex
M a n u f a c t u r e : a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o app rox b ) M e l t and b r i n a t o aDDrox
Weight% 4 . 0 0 1 . o o
1 0 . 0 0 0 .30
5 0 . 0 0 0 . 4 0
23 .60 0 .30 0 .40
9 . 3 6 0 .14 0 . 5 0
70C; 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g ;
. C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; c ) D i s s o l v e and add t o a b ) ; d ) D i s s o l v e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o abc ) w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Perfume , homogenize.
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r I K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i on
84 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Cream Moisturizer
An e l e g a n t , g l o s s y , w h i t e , m o i s t u r e - r e t a i n i n g cream t h a t r e p a i r s t h e s k i n .
I n n r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 3 . R i t a l o e 1X ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 4 . D i s o d i um 01 eami do PEG-2 S u l f o s u c c i n a t e 5. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 6 . Hydrogenated P o l y i sobutene 7 . D i m e t h i c o n e 8 . R i t a p r o - 1 6 5 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 9 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 0 . R i t a IPP ( I s o o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 11 .Tocophery l A c e t a t e 12. Tocophery l L i n o l e a t e 1 3 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 1 4 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 70/30 1 5 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 16.Corn S t a r c h 17.Germaben I 1 1 8 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 19. R e d u c t i ne (Oat P r o t e i n )
%&& 61.65
0 .40 0 .20 2 .00 2 .00 5 . 0 0 2 .00 5.00 4.00 6 .00 0 . 2 5 0 .10 0.50 1 .50 0 . 4 0 1 . 0 0 1 . o o 3 . 0 0 4.00
Compounding P rocedure :
i t e m s 3-5 and h e a t t o 75C. Combine i t e m s 6-14 and h e a t t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r and m i x . Add i t e m 1 5 . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s
S l o w l y d i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add
16-19. R e f . No. 122-1OC
Skin Nutrient Gel
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3 . Xanthan Gum 4. 1 , 3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 6 . Shebu WS (Shea B u t t e r ) 7 . TEA @ 99% 8 . Promois ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 9 . G l y d a n t 10 .F rag rance 11 . R i t a HA C-1 -C (Sod i um H y a l u r o n a t e )
w 87.40
0 .50 0 .10 5 .00 0 . 1 0 1 . o o 0 .40 0 . 2 0 0 .20 0 . 1 0 5.00
Compounding P rocedure :
Add i t e m s 4, 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8,9,10 and 11. The pH o f a g e l i s 5.5
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp,: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d .
R e f . No. 122-1036
Beauty Aids 85
Nonionic L i q u i d Makeup
Veegum p r o v i d e s a l i q u i d makeup w i t h u n i f o r m , shear coverage. Veegum s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n w h i l e i n h i b i t i n g p igment s e t t l i n g . The 5 : l Veegum/xanthan gum r a t i o p r o v i d e s opt imum v i s c o s i t y and f l o w a b i l i t y . The b l e n d o f o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i s des igned t o g i v e e m o l l i e n c e w i t h o u t an o i l y o r g r e a s y f e e l . A n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f y i n g system g i v e s maximum s t a b i l i t y t o t h e f o r m u l a a t pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 . The f o r m u l a i s des igned s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r o i l y s k i n .
I n s r e d i e n t : A : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e
R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum D e i o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r i n C i t r i c A c i d
B: T a l c T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Ox ides
W t .%* 0 . 7 5 0 . 1 5
67.10 4 . 0 0 0.30
5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 3 . 7 0
C : M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( R i t a c h o l ) 5 .00 M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e (Crodamol MM) 2 .50 Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e ( P o l y s y n l a n e ) 2 . 0 0 01 e y l A1 coho1 2 .00 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Cosmowax K ) 2 .oo P o l y s o r b a t e 8 5 (Tween 85) 0 . 5 0
D : P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure :
a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add t h e g l y c e r i n and c i t r i c a c i d . M i x u n t i l smooth. M i x P a r t B ( g r i n d i f n e c e s s a r y ) u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat P a r t s A+B t o 60-65C. Heat P a r t C t o 60-65C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+B and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
B lend Veegum and R h o d i g e l . S l o w l y add t o t h e w a t e r , w h i l e
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 349
86 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Seauence : 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 3 4 4 4 4 4 5 5
*Paten t
Oil Free Make-Up with Hypan SR150H
Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i zed Water Hypan SR150H Methy lparaben P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% T i t a n i um D i o x i d e #3328 I r o n Oxide Y e l l o w I r o n Oxide Red I r o n Ox ide B l a c k Orgaso l 2002D Nat Cos D e i o n i z e d Water L i p o v o l MOS-70* L i ponate TDTM L i p 0 GMS-450 L i p 0 S t e a r i c A c i d Propy lparaben D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U-13
#4,659,573
P e r c e n t 48.14
0.01 0.25 4.60 0 I 9 0 8.00 0.80 0.40 0.10 1 .oo
20.00 10.00 1 .oo 1 - 0 0 2.50 0.20 1 . o o 0.10
Procedure : 1 .
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7 .
I n t o main k e t t l e , combine Sequence #1 i n g r e d i e n t s under L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-7OC. I n aux i 1 i a r y k e t t l e , combine Sequence # 2 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o Sequence #1 s l o w l y under L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g . Pass combined Sequences # l and #2 t h r o u g h c o l l o i d m i l l and r e c i r c u l a t e u n t i 1 p igments a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d . R inse c o l l o i d m i l l u s i n g Sequence #3 i n g r e d i e n t and add t o Sequences #1 and #2 under L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g . Heat combined b a t c h t o 76C. I n a u x i l i a r y k e t t l e combine Sequence #4 under L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g and h e a t t o 82C. A t p r o p e r t e m p e r a t u r e add Sequence #4 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h under sweep m i x i ng, mai n t a i n i ng t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i 1 emu1 s i f i ca- t i o n i s comple te . B e g i n c o o l i n g t o 35CJ s w i t c h i n g t o s low sweep m i x i n g as b a t c h t h i c k e n s . A t 35C add premixed Sequence #5 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C.
SOURCE: L ip0 Chemicals I n c . : Formula No. 875
Beauty Aids 87
Oil Moisturizer
M i n e r a l O i l L a n o l i n X - t r a Deo O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Beeswax R i t a v e n a 5 Borax DL Panthenol S o r b i t a n Monoo lea te C o l o r Kathon CG D i s t i 1 1 ed Water
Wt% 24.75
5 .00 0 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 1 .50 0 . 2 5 0 . 1 0 0 .80 0 . 0 6 0 . 2 0
6 3 . 8 4
pH: 7 . 1 V i s c o s i t y : 8500 c p s S t a b i 1 i t i e s :
4F: S e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 c y c l e 40F: No change a f t e r 6 weeks
11OF: No change a f t e r 6 weeks C e n t r i f u g e R e s u l t s : A f t e r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 RPM
D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: W i t h o u t p e t r o l a t u m w i t h R i t a v e n a
Formul a t i on 11 4-34
S1 i g h t s e p a r a t i o n
5 ( 1 . 5 % )
Oil Moisturizer with Ritavena 5
I n g r e d i e n t s : 96w/w P a r t A : 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 24 .75 2 . L a n o l i n , X - t r a Deo 5 .00 3 . O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA 0 . 5 0 4 . Beeswax 3 . 0 0 P a r t B: 5. R i t a v e n a 5 1 . 5 0
P a r t C : 7 . D i s t i l l e d Water 53.60 8 . Borax ( 9 9 . 5 % Pure) 0 . 2 5
1 0 . S o r b i t a n Monoo lea th 0 . 8 0 P a r t D : 11 . Fragrance 0.30 12.Kathon CG 0 . 2 0 Compoundi ng Procedure :
w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g 165F f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Premix P a r t B i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t 0 t o m i x t u r e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t 0 . M i x .
6 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10 .00
9 . R i t a p a n DL 0 .10
Heat P a r t s A and C t o 165F. Pour P a r t A i n t o P a r t C . M i x
F o r m u l a t i o n 11 4-34
SOURCE: R,I.T.A. C o r p , : R i t a v e n a 5 : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
88 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Skin MilkManufacturing at room temperature possible
Recipe: A Hos taphat KML
M i n e r a l o i 1, l o w v i s c o s i t y Almond o i 1 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e A n t i o x i d a n t
Wt% 3.00
12.00 5.00 5 . 0 0
q . s .
B Carbopol 980 0 . 4 0
C C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
2 .70 0 .10 0 . 2 5
71.25 q . s .
D Fragrance 0 . 3 0
Procedure : 1 S t i r B i n t o A, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2 S t i r D i n t o 1 . 3 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n .
Formula A VI /1150
O/W-Skin MilkManufacturing at room temperature possible
Recipe : A Hostaphat KL 340 N
H o s t a c e r i n DGI M i n e r a l o i l , low v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e C e t i o l 868
B Carbopol 980
C C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve
D F r a g r a n c e
Procedure : 1 M i x A and 8, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l 2 Add D t o 1 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n .
Formula A VI /1118
wt% 1 . 5 0 2 .00 8 .00 6 .00 5 . 0 0
0.40
1 . 6 0 75.20
4 . s .
0.30
SOURCE: Hoechst : Gu ide Rec ipes f o r t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y
Beauty Aids 89
O/W-Skin Milk"Contains no ethylene oxide", manufacturing at room temperature
possible
Recipe: A H o s t a c e r i n D G I
M i n e r a l o i l , l o w v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e Squal ane Eu tano l G Walnut o i 1 A n t i o x i d a n t
B Carbopol 980 C Hostapon KCG
A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) PEG 400 Hoechst P o t a s s i um S o r b a t e Germa l l I 1 Water
D F rag rance Procedure : 1 S t i r B i n t o A, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2 Add D t o 1 . 3 F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n .
Formula A VI /1253
O/W-Skin Milk"contains no ethylene oxide"
Rec ipe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS
M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e C e t i o l 868
B Carbopol 980 C Hostapon KCG
C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) G1 y c e r i n Water P r e s e r v a t i ve
D F rag rance Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B . 2 Heat C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 F i n a l 1 y homogeni ze t h e emu1 s i on.
Formula A VI/1252
Wt% 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 4 .00 2 . 0 0 4 .00 3 . 0 0
0 . 5 0 0 . 8 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 5 0 1 . 8 0 3 . 0 0 0 . 2 5 0 . 2 5
74.40 0 .30
q . s .
Wt% 2 . 0 0 8 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 4 .00 0 . 3 0 0 .60 1 . 2 0 4 . 0 0
74.60
0 . 3 0 q . s .
SOURCE: Hoechs t : Guide Recipes t o t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y
90 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages: T h i s l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t does n o t use any
p e t r o l e u m o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a , n o r does i t use any s y n t h e t i c raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t have p e t r o l e u m p r o d u c t s i n i t .
O i l Phase I : wt% Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3 . 7 R i c e Bran O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 9 . 0 C a s t o r O i l ( A l n o r ) 3 8 . 0 PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 . 3 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e Powder ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 2 . 0 S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow C o r n i n g ) 1 0 . 0 D&C Red #30 ( C l a r k e ) 3 . 0 O i l Phase 1 1 : K80-D22 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . 0 S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9 . 0 Hexanedi ol Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7 . 0 Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4 . 0 P rocedure :
C o o l . Repeat two more t i m e s . Reheat t o 75C and add Phase I 1 t h a t has been hea ted t o 75C. Cool t o 65C and pour i n t o mo lds . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
V a r i o u s o i l s u b s t i t u t i o n s can be made t o s u i t f o r m u l a .
M i x Phase I, h e a t t o 75C b r e a k i n g up any s m a l l agg lomera tes .
Lip Gloss with Sun Protection
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages:
o f t h e PEG Carnauba and Deodor i zed Orange Wax w h i l e a d d i n g m o i s t u r e and c o l o r t o t h e l i p s .
T h i s p r o d u c t p r o t e c t s t h e l i p s f r o m t h e sun, w i t h t h e h e l p
Formul a : __ W t % 1 . PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . 0 2 . Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . 0 3. Whi t e P e t r o l e u m (Wi t c o ) 2 6 . 1 4 . Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . 0 5 . J o j o b a O i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 2 . 0 6 . Hexaned io l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 0 . 5 7 . C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( I n o l e x ) 4 5 . 0 8 . Gamma Orzano l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 0 . 6 9 . P igments 0 . 8 P rocedure :
Combine 9 , 1 , 2 , h e a t t i l l d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e b a t c h , excep t t h e gamma o r z a n o l wh ich s h o u l d be added l a s t , a f t e r e v e r y t h i n g has been d i s p e r s e d . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
To make t h e p r o d u c t w i t h g r e a t e r g l o s s i t wou ld n o r m a l l y r e q u i r e more p e t r o l e u m . To make t h e p r o d u c t s o f t e r l e s s wax s h o u l d be used. SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Beauty Aids 91
Pressed Powder Blush
Formula: A : T a l c Z i n c S t e a r a t e S h i n j u lOOT ( M e a r l ) Mear l i t e GBU (Mear l ) T i m i c a S p a r k l e 11OP ( M e a r l ) C l o i s o n n e ' C e r i s e Flambe 5502 ( M e a r l ) C1 o i sonne' B1 ue F1 ambe 6502 I r o n Ox ide (Brown) I r o n Oxide ( R u s s e t ) I r o n Ox ide (Tan) A n t i m i c r o b i a1 s B: Fragrance A n t i o x i d a n t C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) S o r b i t a n D i i s o s t e a r a t e C : Flamenco Superpear l 120C ( M e a r l ) C l o i s o n n e ' Monarch Gold 233X ( M e a r l )
% by Weight
50 .30 7 . 0 0
11 . o o 6 . 5 0 1 . 2 5 1 . 1 0 2 .60 1 . 7 5 2 .00 1 - 0 0
q . s .
q . s . q . s .
2.90 2 .90
4.70 5 . 0 0
Procedure :
I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l combine 6 and h e a t and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Spray B i n t o p remixed A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
B1 end and d i s p e r s e A i n d r y b l endi n g / d i s p e r s i ng equipment I
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow
Formula: A : M e a r l t a l c TCA ( q . s . t o 100) ( M e a r l ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e Mear lmica CF ( M e a r l ) Chromi um Oxide Green I r o n Ox ide ( Y e l l o w ) A n t i m i c r o b i a1 B : A n t i o x i d a n t Squal ane C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o )
% by Wei a h t
45.00 6 . 0 0
34 .00 3.00 6 . 0 0
q . s .
q . s . 2 . 5 0 3 - 5 0
Procedure : Thorough ly b l e n d and d i s p e r s e Phase A i n a p p r o p r i a t e d r y
b l endi ng /d i s p e r s i ng equipment . Add Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s u p p o r t v e s s e l . Heat and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Spray phase B i n t o p remixed A and c o n t i n u e u n t i l u n i f o r m . P u l v e r i z e and p r e s s .
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
92 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Purified Bentonite Refining Mask
Veegum HS i s c l a s s i f i e d as “ P u r i f i e d B e n t o n i t e ” i n t h e USP/NF. T h i s mask f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s and t a k e s advantage o f t h e r e c o g n i z e d a b s o r b a t i v e and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f b e n t - o n i t e . A p p l y a t h i n c o a t i n g t o t h e f a c e . A l l o w i t t o d r y o r remove i t a f t e r 10 t o 15 m i n u t e s b e f o r e i t i s c o m p l e t e l y d r y . R i n s e o f f w i t h c l e a r w a t e r and a s o f t c l o t h o r c o t t o n b a l l .
I n g r e d i e n t : A : Veegum HS, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum D e i o n i z e d Water
W t .%* 4 . 0 0 0 . 3 0
43 I 70
B: Sucrose 15.00
DEA-Oleth-3 Phosphate ( C r o d a f o s N-3 N e u t r a l ) 5.00 G l y c e r i n 10.00
C: P r o p y l ene G l y c o l (and) Grape E x t r a c t (and) Hyper icum E x t r a c t (and) A r n i c a E x t r a c t (and) W i t c h Hazel E x t r a c t (and) Horse Chestnu t E x t r a c t (and) I v y E x t r a c t ( P h y t e l ene Compl ex EGX 243) 3 .00
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) Ca lendura E x t r a c t (and) Chamomile E x t r a c t (and) L i n d e n E x t r a c t (and) C o r n f l o w e r E x t r a c t (and) M a t r i c a r i a E x t r a c t (and) Hyper icum E x t r a c t ( P h y t e l e n e Complex EGX 244) 3 .00
A1 l a n t o i n 1 . o o Oat F l o u r ( S t e r - 0 - P r o ) 10.00 Z i n c Ox ide 5 . 0 0
D: P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s.
Procedure : Dry b l e n d t h e Veegum HS and R h o d i g e l . Add them t o t h e w a t e r ,
a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and m i x each u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t D and mix u n t i 1 u n i f o r m .
* As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 419
Beauty Aids 93
Silky Shadow
Phase#: I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% 1 1625 T a l c 17.60 1 S i l k Mica 30.00 1 B i r o n B-50 5.00 1 S i l t e x M Super 3 .50 1 Z i n c S t e a r a t e #695 3 .50 1 Hubersorb 600 0 . 5 0 1 7055 (Ye1 low i r o n o x i d e ) 10 .00 1 7054 (Red i r o n o x i d e ) 7 .50 1 7133 ( B l a c k i r o n o x i d e ) 2 .00 1 M e t h y l Paraben 0 . 2 0 1 P r o p y l Paraben 0 . 1 0 2 T r i v e n t OC-G 9 . 0 5 2 Emerest 2452 0 . 5 0 2 Schercermol CP 0 I 50 2 BHA 0 . 0 5 3 T i m i r o n MP-24 Go ld K a r a t 1 0 . 0 0
Procedure : Combine phase # 1 . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i 11, p a s s i n g t w i c e
t h r o u g h an 0.027" h e r r i n g bone s c r e e n . Combine phase # 2 . Heat t o 65C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Spray o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t h e b u l k . P u l v e r i z e once t h r o u g h t h e 0 . 0 2 7 " s c r e e n . Add phase #3. B l e n d i n w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Do n o t p u l v e r i z e .
F o r m u l a t i o n P 2133
Powder Eyeshadow
Supra T a l c B i r o n ESQ M i c r o c e l E Orgasol 2002 UD Nat Cos 43001 (manganese v i o l e t ) 43W1810 ( u l t r a m a r i n e b l u e ) 33-5198 ( b l a c k i r o n o x i d e ) Mica M-RP Magnesi urn M y r i s t a t e M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben
!v&6 9 . 7 0
20 * 00 1 . o o 5 .00
15.00 15 .00
2 . 0 0 15 .00
9 - 0 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0
Ceraphyl 847 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e 6 . 9 5 Emerest 2452 0 . 5 0 C e t y l P a l m i t a t e 0 .50 Oxynex LM 0 . 0 5 M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure :
Combine t h e p igments and f i l l e r s w i t h t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . P u l v e r i z e u s i n g a hammer m i l l t w i c e t h r o u g h an 0 . 0 2 7 " sc reen. Combine t h e o i l phase. Heat t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous. Spray o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g .
F o r m u l a t i o n P3-57-6
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
94 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Silky Smooth Emollient Liquid Makeup I n g r e d i e n t : A : Veegum P l u s , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (and)
C e l l u 1 ose Gum D e i o n i z e d Water G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ( L i p o n i c EG-1) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99%
T a l c T i t a n i um D i o x i d e
M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Hydrogenated Soy G l y c e r i d e (Myvero l 18-06) S t e a r i c A c i d XXX D i o c t y l Adi p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l
P a l m i t a t e ( 1 . 1 % by w t Wickenol 161 + 1 . 0 % by w t W i c k e n o l 163)
B: I r o n Ox ides
C: I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e
Vanseal CS , Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e L i t h i u m S t e a r a t e
D: P r e s e r v a t i v e
W t .%*
1 .oo 5 3 . 5 0 10.50 0 . 7 5 1 . 2 9 1 .oo 3,OO 9 .06 6 . 5 0 4 .00 2 .50 2.10 1 . 6 0
2 . 1 0 1.00 0 . 1 0
a . s ~~ ~
Heat t h e water t o 70-75C. Add t h e Veegum P l u s and mix a t ’ 1 8 0 0 r p m f o r 20 m i n u t e s . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d - i e n t s . M i x t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t h o r o u g h l y i n t o P a r t A u n t i l u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70 t o 75C. Heat P a r t C t o 70 t o 75C and add t o P a r t s A+B. Mix u n t i l c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Mascara I n g r e d i e n t s : W t .%* A : Demi n e r a l i zed Water 56.10
Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 . 2 0 B u t y l ene G1 y c o l 10 .00 C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0.60 Methy lparaben 0 .20 D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germal l 11) 0 .20 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 1 . 5 0
B: C a n d e l i l l a Wax 10 .00 S t e a r i c A c i d 7 .00 I s o s t e a r i c Acid 1 .oo M i n e r a l O i l 2 .00 P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0 . 2 0
C: I r o n Ox ide (C33-134 Cosmet ic B l a c k ) 10.00
k e t t l e , f i t t e d w i t h a homogenizer t y p e d i s p e r s e r , weigh t h e f o l l o w i n g : water ; s p r i n k l e i n t h e Veegum; i t i s t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d add t h e b u t y l e n e g l y c o l ; d u s t i n t h e CMC; when t h e CMC i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Dust i n P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h h i g h m i l l i n g and r a i s e t h e temp- e r a t u r e t o 76C. Heat P a r t €3 t o 79C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t B t o t h e main k e t t l e w i t h h i g h m i l l i n g f o r 15 m i n . Sweep c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e t o e l i m i n a t e t h e a i r .
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formulas No. 460 & Sun Chemical
I n t o a s i d e k e t t l e add a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . I n t o t h e main
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
Beauty Aids 95
Topical Spray Powder
I n g r e d i e n t s : Anhydrous E t h a n o l AMP Regu la r Dermacry l -79 D r y - F l o PC Prope l 1 a n t A-46
% b y We igh t 42.00
0 . 3 8 2 . 0 0
10.00 45.62
P rocedure : D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,
s l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacry l -79 . When s o l u t i o n i s comp le te , s i f t i n D r y - F l o PC. M i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l l cans.
Va lve : S e a q u i s t NS-41 Stem O r i f i c e : 2 x 0 .025 Gasket : Buna P 0.042" THK Code 150 cup : R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top, Lamina te Bot tom Dimpled,
Code 1610, Tapersea l S p r i n g : 0 .020 ss Seat : None Body : 0.062 S t a n d a r d Vapor Tap: 0 .018" Tub ing I D : 0 .165" A-D D i m : A c t u a l 8 A c t u a t o r S t y l e : E x c e l 1 100 M i s t y O r i f i c e S i z e : 0 .018" M i s t y
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0373 sugges ted by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemi c a l C O . (7423-858)
Hydroalcoholic Fragranced Spray Gel
I n g r e d i e n t s : S t a b i l e z e XL-80W 200 p r o o f e t h a n o l
V a n i l l a BB-36943 AMP-95
Procedure : 1 . Add E t h a n o l t o S t a b i l e z e XL-80%' and m ix w e l l . 2 . Add AMP-95 t o t h e b a t c h and m i x w e l l . 3 . Add a f r a g r a n c e and m ix w e l l . 4 . Package.
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : A c l e a r y e l l o w i s h s p r a y a b l e g e l . Apparent pH: 6 . 0 S t a b i l i t y : S t a b l e a t RT f o r 3 months.
Recommended S p r a y e r : Calmar Mark I V
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0378 sugges ted b y ISP (10227-5)
% b y Weight 24 .60 -17 .14 70.00-77.59
0 .40 - 0 . 2 7 5 . 0 0 - 5 . 0 0
96 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vitamin F Skin Moisturizer
Formula : A : S t e a r i c A c i d C e t i o l MM M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) L a n e t t e 0 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l V i t a m i n F F o r t e CLR B : Water D o w i c i l 200 Carbopol 941 C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne D : D&C Y e l l o w No. 5 ( 0 . 1 a s . ) F r a g r a n c e
% by Weight
4.0 5 . 0
1 . 5 1 . o
1 0 . 0
76 .8 0 . 1 0 . 2
1 . o
0 . 2 0 . 2
Procedure : M i x and h e a t P a r t A t o 65-70C. D i s p e r s e Carbopol 941 i n t o
w a t e r and mix P a r t B . Add C t o B and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Add B-C t o P a r t A and mix u n t i l c o o l e d t o 40C. Add D when c o o l e d t o 35-4OC. A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 .
Body Smoother
Formula: O i l Phase: Super S t e r o l E s t e r Po l awax (Croda) Crodaco l C-95 (Croda) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) Water Phase: Croquat M (Croda) G1 y c e r i ne Germaben I I Water , Dei o n i zed Hydrosoy 2000/SF (Croda)
% by Weight
10 .0 7 . 5 2 . 0
1 0 . 0
2 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o
61 . 5 1 . o
Procedure : Heat o i l phase t o 75-78C. Heat w a t e r phase t o 75-8OC. Add
w a t e r t o o i l w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x . Cool t o 45C. Add Hydrosoy 2000/SF.
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 97
Waterproof Special Effects Mascara
Phase # : 1 S o l t r o l 100 1 P o l y e t h y l e n e 6A 1 C a n d e l l i 1 a wax 1 OH1 an
2 P e n t a l y n C 2 S o l t r o l 100
3 M e t h y l Paraben 3 P r o p y l Paraben
4 Z i n c S t e a r a t e
5 Bentone Gel SS71
6 P e a r l Pigment
Rona P e a r l Pigment Combinat ions : A D i c h r o n a BG B Co lorona Dark B l u e C T r a n s p a r e n t B l a c k D Co lorona Magenta E Col o rona Ma] e s t i c Green F Co lorona Dark B l u e G D i c h r o n a BG
Wt% 30 .95 11 . o o
4 .50 0 .25
2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0
1 . o o
35 .00
13 .00 13 .00 13 .00 10 .00 10 .00 1 0 . 0 0 10 .00
Procedure :
t o 65-70C w i t h c o n s t a n t L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c l e a r .
Combine phase # l i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 90-95C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . When c l e a r , add t o r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s f u l l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e proceed- i n g . Cool t o 30C w i t h s idesweep a g i t a t i o n . A t 55C, check f o r s o l v e n t 1 oss and a d j u s t i f necessary .
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n AN251
Prepare phase #2 i n advance: combine i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat
98 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Liquid Foundation
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l D ime th i cone Copo lyo l ( A b i 1 EM-90) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO-33) C e t y l D ime th i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OF) Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l Beeswax
Phase 6: Cyc lometh i cone
Phase C : Red, Y e l l o w , B l a c k I r o n Ox ides T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e T a l c
Phase D : B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l Water Sodi urn C h l o r i d e
Phase E : F rag rance
- Weight%
2 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 . o o 1 . 0 0 0 . 4 0 0 . 8 0
18 .00
3.00 7 . 8 0 1 . 7 0
2 . 8 0 6 0 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
Q . S
Procedure : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M ix and h e a t t o 85-9OC. M i x
2 . Cool t o 50C. Add Cyc lometh i cone . 3. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M ix t h o r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e . 4 . Cool t o 50C w i t h m i x i n g . 5 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase D a t ambien t t e m p e r a t u r e . Add
Phase 0 s l o w l y t o A / B / C m i x t u r e w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . 6 . I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n speed a f t e r a l l o f Phase D i s added.
( 1 0 - 1 5 m i n u t e s ) . 7 . Homogen i ze. 8 . F rag rance ,
SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp , : Suggested Formul a t i on
u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Beauty Aids 99
W/O Moisturizing Emulsion
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% A) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 8 .00
Dynacer i n 660 (01 e y l E r u c a t e ) 5 .00 S o f t i s a n 645 ( B i s - d i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) 4.00 I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l Succ i n a t e ) 3 . 0 0 A b i l WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4-Isostearate (and ) C e t y l
D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l (and) Hexy l L a u r a t e ) 4 .00 Lunacera M (Hydrogenated M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax) 1 . 0 0
8) D-Panthenol P r e s e r v a t i ve Water
2.00
67.00 q . s .
C) Tocophery l A c e t a t e 3 .00 H y d r o v i t o n (Water (and ) Sodium L a c t a t e (and) L a c t i c
A c i d (and ) G l y c e r i n (and) S e r i n e (and) S o r b i t o l (and) TEA-Lactate (and) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (and ) Urea (and) Sodi um C h l o r i d e (and ) L a u r y l D i e t h y l enedi ami no- g l y c i n e (and) A1 1 a n t o i n (and ) L a u r y l ami n o p r o p y l - g l y c i n e (and) SD A l c o h o l 39-C) 3 . 0 0
P r e p a r a t i on :
i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and t h e n e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . (C) can be mixed w i t h t h e wa te r phase o r added i n a f t e r - wards .
(A) i s hea ted t o 65 degrees C . and homogeneously mixed. (6)
Formul a t i on 1 .2K
Skin Care Oil with Citric Acid Ester
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei g h t % A) I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e /
01 e a t e ) 10 .00 M i g l y o l 810 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 40.00 M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 20 .00 S o f t i g e n 701 ( G l y c e r y l R i c i n o l e a t e ) 1 . 0 0 M i n e r a l O i l 29.00 A n t i o x i d a n t s q . s . Fragrance Men A t S p o r t 61569 0 . 3 0
P r e p a r a t i on : A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed t o g e t h e r a t about 45 degrees C . F o r m u l a t i o n 1 .5U ( 1 )
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
100 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Sheer Make-up
I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM 90 ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO 33) C e t y l D ime th i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l Beeswax Decyl O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) D ime th i cone 350 c s t O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S )
Phase 0 : Cyc lometh i cone
Phase C : I r o n O x i d e s : Red, Y e l l o w , B l a c k , Brown T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e
Phase D : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e P r o p y l e n e G 1 y c o l
Weight%
2 . 0 0 0 . 7 5 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 . 4 0 0 . 8 0 1 . o o 0 . 2 5 3 . 0 0
1 5 . 0 0
0 .30 2 . 1 0
6 6 . 9 0 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0
P rocedure : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x and h e a t t o 85-9OC.
2 . Cool t o 7 0 C . Add Cyc lometh i cone . 3 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x t h o r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e . 4 . Cool t o 50C w i t h m i x i n g . 5 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase D a t ambient t e m p e r a t u r e .
6 . Homogeni z e .
SOURCE: Goldschrn idt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Add Phase D s l o w l y t o A / B / C m i x t u r e w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n
Section V Creams
101
102 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
AEC Cocoa Butter Cream
Stage Ma te r iaJL ___ Q u a n t i t y S tage A : 1 L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l 20 . ooog 2 Pe t ro leum J e l l y ; Wh i te 25 . OOOg 3 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 44. OOOg 4 Castorwax Mp80 1 0 . ooog C o o l i n g C y c l e : 5 V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0 ,5009 6 C a r r o t O i l ; Novarom 0 .1009 7 P . Cocoabu t te r AA 6780 0 .400g M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
Change i n m a t e r i a l p r o p o r t i o n s t o make i t l e s s draggy and n e a r e r Palmers O r i g i n a l .
Use a j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s u i t a b l e f o r h e a t i n g and c o o l i n g , p r e f e r a b l y f i t t e d w i t h a g a t e o r anchor t y p e m i x e r .
S tage 1 : Weigh i n t h e m i n e r a l o i 1 and commence h e a t i n g w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g .
Add Pe t ro leum J e l l y and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and s t i r r i n g u n t i l a l l m e l t e d ,
Add Cocoa B u t t e r and C a s t o r Wax and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and s t i r r i n g u n t i 1 a1 1 me l ted , t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s h o u l d n o t exceed 6 0 C .
When a c l e a r , homogeneous m i x i s o b t a i n e d s t a r t c o o l i n g w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i ng .
C o o l i n g S tage : Add t h e V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e and C a r r o t O i l a t about 55C and t h e Perfume a t about 40C.
The p r o d u c t w i l l t h i c k e n and t h e n s e t , i d e a l l y i t s h o u l d be h o t f i l l e d j u s t above i t s s e t t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e . Some e x p e r i m e n t a l ba tches may be necessary t o d e t e r m i n e t h e optimum f i l l i n g temp- e r a t u r e .
P r o j e c t : JW 2527/Formul a R e f . : 1186*3
Cocoa Butter Cream
Stage M a t e r I a1 . Quant i t y O i l Phase: 1 L ;ght M i n e r a l O i l 1 7 . OOOg 2 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 42 I OOOg 3 Pe t ro leum J e l l y ; Wh i te 3 2 . 5 0 0 9 4 Castorwax Mp80 8 I OOOg Cool i ng C y c l e : 5 P . Cocoabu t te r AA 6780 0 .5009 M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
Weigh o u t t h e m i n e r a l o i l and s t a r t h e a t i n g . Add each i t e m i n t u r n , m i x and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g u n t i l a l l
S w i t c h o f f h e a t and c o o l w i t h s low m i x i n g , add t h e per fume
The p r o d u c t may t h e n be f i l l e d h o t . P r o j e c t : JW 2450/Formula R e f . 1005*0
i n g r e d i e n t s have me1 t e d .
a t 40C.
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 103
AHA Renewal Cream
T h i s e l e g a n t , w h i t e AHA-cream w i t h l o w pH i s an a c t i v e a n t i - w r i n k l e f o r m u l a . P e n t a v i t i n reduces s k i n ' s s e n s i t i v i t y p r e v e n t i n g f r o m i r r i t a t i o n r e a c t i o n s . Fur thermore , P e n t a v i t i n i n c r e a s e s t h e m o i s t u r e c o n t e n t o f t h e s k i n .
Item 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
I n g r e d i e n t x A) Promulgen D
Soya O i l A r l a c e l 165 M y r j 59 Dow C o r n i n g 345 F l u i d F i toderm M i g l y o l 812
8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n 1 ,3 -Butand i 01 Pemulen TR-1
C) D e i o n i z e d Water I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea G1 y c o l i c A c i d P e n t a v i t i n
D ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne F r a g r a n c e : R i Val i a 0/221212
Weight% 3 . 5 0 1 . 0 0 3.50 1 . o o 2.50 5.00 4.00
60.00 0 . 3 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0.20 2.50 0.20 5.00 5.00
0 , 3 0
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Pemulen (12) i n phase B) and h e a t t o 7 5 C . Heat phase A) t o 70C. Under s t i r r i n g , add phase A) t o phase B ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Add phase C) and a d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 17 t o 3 . 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e (18) and s t i r c o l d .
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 034.1/03.96
Glycerin Cream with Citric Acid Esters
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei s h t % A ) I m w i t o r 377 ( G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e / C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e ) 5.00
I m w i t o r 900 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) M i g l yo1 81 2 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i de) P a r a f f i n , W h i t e C e t y l A1 coho1
G l y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
B) K e l t r o l F (Xanthan Gum)
4.00 5.00 5.00 4.00 0.50 5.00
71.50 q . s .
P r e p a r a t i on : (A) i s h e a t e d t o c a . 65 degrees C . ( B ) i s heated up t o t h e
same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The cream i s c o n s t a n t l y s t i r r e d u n t i l c o o l .
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . l o
104 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Liposome Cream
An e l e g a n t w h i t e creamy e m u l s i o n d e l i v e r i n g Rovisome AHA ( L a c t i c A c i d ) t o t h e s k i n .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (50/50) 2 . S t e a r e t h - 2 3 . S t e a r e t h - 2 1 4 . PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 5 . D i o c t y l A d i p a t e 6 . D i o c t y l c y c l ohexane 7 . Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d (200 c s t ) 8. R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i meth i cone Cop01 yo1 ) 9 . Sunf lower Seed O i 1 l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 1 . 1 , 3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 12. Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l CG-T) 13. Rovi some-AHA ( L a c t i c A c i d ) 1 4 . M e t h y l d i b r o m o G l u t a r o n i t r i l e and Phenoxyethanol
2 . 5 0 2 . 5 0 1 . 5 0 3 .00 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2.00 0 . 5 0 4 . 0 0
68.40 4 .00 0 . 3 0 6 . 0 0 0.30
Compounding Procedure : D i s p e r s e i t e m 12 i n w a t e r and b u t y l e n e g l y c o l m i x t u r e . I n
s e p a r a t e beaker h e a t i t e m s 1-9 t o 70C. Heat water phase t o 70C and add t o o i l phase. Then homogenize and c o o l t o 35C. Add Rovisome and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
R e f . NO. 122-94
Washable Cleansing Cream
A g l o s s y c l e a n s i n g cream w i t h w a t e r r i n s a b i l i t y and r e s i d u a l e m o l l i e n c e . C l a r i s k i n h e l p s t o a t t e n u a t e s k i n brown s p o t s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l ( D r a k e o l - 9 ) 3 . S t e a r i c A c i d 4. R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 6. G l y c e r i n e 7. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50%) 8 . R i t a b a t e - 6 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 9 . G l y d a n t 10.Per fume 1 1 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeas t E x t r a c t )
w 3 . 0 0
20.00 5 . 0 0 3.00
54.00 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 2 .00
q . s . q . s .
5 . 0 0
Compounding Procedure : Heat 1-4 i t e m s t o 70C. Heat i t e m s 5-9 t o 65C. Add o i l phase t o
w a t e r phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s 10 and 1 1 . R e f . No. 122-108
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 105
Anti-Wrinkle Cream
M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e P ropy lene G1 y c o l USP AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e AEC Hydroxyoc tacosany l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e AEC PEG 45 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer Cocoa B u t t e r , Ref i ned GMS NSE AEC Methoxy Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer N i paguard BPX F rag rance
Formula R e f . : 1081 *O
AEC Cocoa Butter Cream
M a t e r i a1 : Cocoa B u t t e r , Ref i ned P e t r o l e u m J e l l y; W h i t e L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l Castorwax Mp80 V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 C a r r o t O i l ; Novarom
Formula R e f . : 1186*3
%w/w 65.250
7 .000 5 .000 5 . 0 0 0 5 .000 4.000 3 .000 3 IO00 2 .000 0 .500 0 .250
%w/w 44.000 25.000 20 .000 10 .000
0 . 5 0 0 0 .400 0 .100
Cocoa Butter Cream
M a t e r i a1 : Cocoa B u t t e r , Ref i ned P e t r o l e u m J e l l y , W h i t e L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l Castorwax Mp80 P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780
Forrnul a R e f . : 1005*0
%w/w 42.000 32.500 17 .000 8 .000 0 .500
SOURCE: A&E Connock, L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
106 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Cream
A m o i s t u r i z i n g cream f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t g i v e s a smooth, creamy p r o d u c t t h a t f i g h t s w r i n k l e s . Lnn red i e- w 1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend ) 3 . 0 0 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . 0 0 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 1 . o o 4 . S t e a r i c A c i d 2 . 7 5 5 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 * 00 6 . R i tade rm ( R . I . T . A . B lend ) 1 0 . 0 0 7 . R i t a SSO (Sun f lower Seed O i l ) 4 . 0 0 8 . BHA 0 .10 9 . P ropy lpa raben 0 . 1 0 1 0 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 64 .50 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 0 .10 1 2 . G l y c e r i ne 5 . 0 0 13 . Me thy lpa raben 0 . 1 0 1 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 1 . 2 5 1 5 . R e d u c t i n e (Oat P r o t e i n ) 2 . 0 0 16 .Quatern ium 15 ( 2 0 % S o l u t i o n ) 0 . 1 0 1 7 , F rag rance 1 . o o Compounding Procedure :
s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous m i x t u r e i s fo rmed. Add i t e m s 12-14 t o i t e m s 10-11 and hea t t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r a t 70C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Beg in c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m s 15-17.
Heat i t e m s 1-7 t o 70C. S l o w l y add i t e m 11 t o i t e m 10 w h i l e
R e f . No. 120-188
Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream
..~ I a r e d i e n t s : - YowJ4-J 1 , R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 50/50 2 . 5 0 2 . S t e a r e t h - 2 2 .50 3 . S t e a r e t h - 2 1 1 . 5 0 4 . PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 3 . 0 0 5 . D i o c t y l A d i p a t e 3 . 0 0 6 . D i o c t y l c y c l ohexane 2 . 0 0 7 . Cyc l ometh i cone 2 ,oo 8 . D ime th i cone 0 . 5 0 9 . R i t a SSO (Sun f lower Seed O i l ) 4 . 0 0 10, D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 68 ,40 11 . 1 , 3 - B u t y l ene G 1 y c o l 4 . 0 0 12 .Xanthan Gum 0 . 3 0 1 3 . Reduct i ne (Oat P r o t e i n ) 6 . 0 0 14 .Methy ld ib rorno G l u t a r o n i t r i l e 0 . 3 0 Compounding Procedure :
D i s p e r s e i t e m 12 i n wa te r and b u t y l e n e g l y c o l m i x t u r e , Heat t o 7OC. Combine i t e m s 1-9 and h e a t t o 70C. Add t o wa te r phase. M ix and c o o l t o 30C. Add i t e m s 13 l n d 1 4 .
R e f . No. 120-193
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 107
Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream
Inqredi ents: 1 . Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 5O/SO 2 Steareth-2 3. St~areth-21 4. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 5. Dioctyl Adipate 6. D i octyl Cyclohexane 7. Dow Corn?ng 200 Fluid (200 cst) 8. Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 9. Sunflower Seed Oil 10.Disti illed/Deionized Water 11.1,3 Butylene Glycol 12.Xanthan Gum 13. Rovi some ACE (ROVI 31 end) 14.Reductine (Oat Protein) 15,Methyldibromo Glutaronitri le and Phenoxyethanol
SWLVj 2.50 2.50 1 .50 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 4.00 64,40 4.00 0.30 5.00 5.00 0.30
Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 12 in items 10 and 1 1 a n d heat to 70C. Mix
items 1-9 and heat to 70C. Add water phase to oil phase, then homogenize. Cool to 35C and add items 13-15.
Ref. No. 122-96
Night-Cream
A smooth, moisturizing cream containing Clariskin for prevent- ing and attenuating age spots.
Ingredi en-ts; 1 . Ritachol 2000 (R.I.T.A. Blend) 2. Rita SA (Stearyl Alcohol) 3. Mineral Oil (Britol-7) 4. Lanol i n X-Tra Deo 5. Ritaderm (R.I.T.A. Blend) 6 . Propylparaben 7. Butylated Hydroxyanisole 8 . D i s t i lled/Deionized Water 9. Acritamer 941 (Carbomer) 10 I Propylene G1 ycol 11.Methylparaben 1 2 I T r 1 et h a no 1 ami ne 99% 13,Bromopol 14.Clariskin (Yeast Extract) 15.Perfume
%W%W 8.00 2.50 12.00 1 .oo 10.00 0.10 0.10
55.96 0.10 5.00 0.10 0.10 0.04 5.00 q . s .
Cornpounding Procedure:
until lump free. Add items 10 and 1 1 and heat to 75C. Add oil phase to water phase with agitation. Cool to 40-45C and add items 13-15. Cool to 25-30C and package.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Combine items 1-7 and heat to 75C. Disperse item 9 into water
Ref. No. 122-818
108 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Basic-Cream with AHA-Esters, Food Approved
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei a h t % A . M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16 .00
S o f t i s a n 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 . 0 0 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01 e a t e ) 5 . 0 0
I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l Cocoate) 3 .00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7 . 0 0 A n t i o x i d a n t q . s .
B. G l y c e r o l P r e s e r v a t i v e Water , ad
5 .00
100.00 q . s .
F r a g r a n c e q . s .
P r e p a r a t i o n :
t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d and a t abou t 30C f r a g r a n c e i s added.
I n g r e d i e n t s o f A a r e h e a t e d t o abou t 70C. B i s b r o u g h t t o
F o r m u l a t i o n BAS FO
Eye Wrinkle Cream with UV Absorber With citric acid ester as active ingredient
I n q r e d i e n t : Wei q h t %
M i g l yo1 829 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c /D i g l y c e r y l Succ i n a t e ) 5 . 0 0 Dynacer i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 5 . 0 0 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e ) 5 . 0 0 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / O l e a t e ) 8 .00 Eveni ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 3 . 0 0 A n t i o x i d a n t 4 , s .
A . M i g l y o l 818 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / L i n o l e i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 . 0 0
B. K e l t r o l F(Xanthan Gum) Me thoce l K 100 LV ( H y d r o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ) P r e s e r v a t i v e Water , ad
0 . 5 0 Om 50
100.00 q . s .
P r e p a r a t i on :
K e l t r o l F and Me thoce l i s d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r and s t i r r e d t o homogenei ty . Then B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A .
I n g r e d i e n t s o f A a r e h e a t e d t o about 70C. To b u i l d phase 6
The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d . F o r m u l a t i o n EYE OW
SOURCE: Hu ls A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 109
Bleaching Night Cream Against Age Spots
T h i s a g r e e a b l e , r i c h n i g h t cream c o n t a i n s Fadeout , wh ich has b l e a c h i n g a c t i v i t y . P e n t a v i t i n p r o v i d e s t h e s k i n w i t h m o i s t u r e and r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n .
I t e m : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
____ .__ I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) Cremophor A-6
Cremophor A-25 C u t i na GMS L a n e t t e - 0 S t e a r i c A c i d P a r a f f i n o i l C e t i o l SN Vase1 i ne w h i t e Abi 1 -350
10 B ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 1 1 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a 12 Phenoni p 13 G1 y c e r i n 14 P e n t a v i t i n 15 Fadeou t
"/ow& 2 . 5 0 2 . 5 0 4 - 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o
10 .00 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 . 4 0
54.60 0 . 2 0 0 .50 3 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
16 C ) F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927 0 . 3 0
P rocedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,
Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : Appl i c a t i on No I A 032 I B/O1 I 96
110 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Cold Cream W/O
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages:
r e f r e s h e s w h i l e d e e p l y c l e a n s i n g t h e s k i n o f d i r t and o i l s , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n smooth and s i l k y . N a t u r a l a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a g e n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and o range wax p r e s e r v e t h i s
T h i s c l a s s i c p r o d u c t has a n a t u r a l m i l d orange aroma wh ich
p r o d u c t a l o n g w i t h t h e pH (pH=8) .
O i l Phase: NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e r e s i n e Wax 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) L i o h t M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( I n o l e x )
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF Goodr Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x )
P rocedure : Add Carbopol s o l u t i o n t o t h e wa
add b o r a x under a g i t a t i o n . M i x and o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e c o n t a i n e r s .
c h
wt% 1 0 . 0 6 . 0 4 . 0
3 8 . 5 2 . 0
2 7 . 5 1 0 . 0
2 . 0
e r phase m ix and h e a t t o 75C, me t o i l phase t o 75C. Add m i x i n g . Cool and pour i n t o
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f t h e orange wax w i l l e l i m i n a t e t h e n a t u r a l orange aroma. P l a n t o i l s can be added i n l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n s f o r 1 a b e l c l a ims.
Smal l changes i n t h i s f o r m u l a a r e p o s s i b l e , such as, r e d u c i n g
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Hand Care Cream
P a r t A : S u l f e t a l CJOT 60 I m w i t o r 960
u 1 0 . 0 1 4 . 0
P a r t 8 : Water 75 .5
P a r t C: Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e 0 . 5
M i x p a r t A and C s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B and C s u c c e s s i v e l y
A d j u s t pH t o app rox . pH 6 . 5 u s i n g c i t r i c a c i d . t o p a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n B 27/18
Creams 111
Cream Foundation
I n g r e d i e n t : A : D e i o n i z e d Water
W t .%* 39 .80
B: Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum
1 . o o 0 .20
C : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 5 .00
D : I r o n Ox ides T i t a n i um D i o x i d e
2 . 1 7 8 . 8 3
E : C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (L ipowax D) 4 . 0 0 C e t e a r e t h - 4 ( L i poco1 SC-4) 2 . 0 0 Decyl O l e a t e 4.00 M i n e r a l O i l 20 * 00 S t e a r i c A c i d 2 - 0 0 L a n o l i n O i l 3 . 0 0 PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 3 .00 Phenoxyethanol (and) Me thy lpa raben (and) E t h y l p a r a b e n
(and) P r o p y l p a r a b e n (and) B u t y l p a r a b e n (Uniphen P-23) 1 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (and) L e c i t h i n (and )
Tocophero l (Un i p h e r o l U-14) 0 .70
F: T r i m e t h y l d o d e c a t r i e n o l (Uni s t a b S-69) 0 .50 F a r n e s y l A c e t a t e (and) F a r n e s o l (and ) Pan theny l
T r i a c e t a t e ( U n i t r i e n o l T-27) 2 . 0 0
G : Water I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Uni c i de 4-1 3)
0 . 5 0 0 . 3 0
P rocedure : Dry b l e n d t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t h e P a r t A w a t e r t o
70C. Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. Add P a r t C and m i x 5 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s s i m u l t a n e o u s l y and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 70C. Add P a r t E t o P a r t s A+B+C+D and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . Slow t h e m i x e r and c o o l t h e b a t c h t o 45C and add P a r t s F and G i n t h e o r d e r shown. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o 30C and package.
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegurn F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m Induchern AG
112 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream, Type O/W, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex*
a ) Emulgade 1000 N I 4 . 0 0 L a n e t t e 16 1 . o o M y r i t o l 318 10 .00 Phenoni p 0 . 3 0
b ) Water , d i s t i l l e d 50.00 Carbopo l 934 0 . 4 0
c) Water , d i s t i l l e d 23 .60 Phenoni p 0 . 3 0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0 . 4 0
d ) Water , d i s t i l l e d 9 . 3 6 Na3-Ci t r a t e , anhydrous 0 . 1 4 MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex 0 . 5 0
M a n u f a c t u r e : M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o app rox . 70C. M e l t b ) , b r i n g t o app rox . 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Con t inue s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o app rox . 30C. D i s s o l v e c ) and add t o a b ) . D i s s o l v e d ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o abc) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, homogen i ze
Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide-Complex
A r l a c e l 1689
Lunacera M P a r a f f . i num sub1 i q u i d u m Beeswax Vase1 i ne Cocoa b u t t e r Vege tab le o i 1 Phenoni p Oxynex LM Water , d i s t i 1 l e d Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n Magnesi um s u l f a t e Water , d i s t i l l e d N a 3 - C i t r a t e x 2H20 MPC-Mi 1 k Peot i de Comol ex
G-4909 0 . 5 0 3.00
1 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 6 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 0 5
51 . 8 5 0 .30 4 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 9 . 3 8 0 . 1 2 0 . 5 0
Manu fac tu re : M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o app rox . 75C. B r i n g b ) t o app rox . 75C and s t i r i n t o a ) . Con t inue s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o app rox . 30C. D i s s o l v e c ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o ab) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, r o l l .
*MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex c o n t a i ns n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m m i l k , i n a c t i v a t e d f o r m .
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Formulas
Creams 113
Day Cream with Evening Primrose Oil
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei g h t % A) M i g l y o l 818 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / L i n o l e i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 . 0 0
M i g l y o l 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl S u c c i n a t e ) 5 . 0 0
I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e ) 5 . 0 0 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / O l e a t e ) 8 . 0 0
Eveni ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 3 . 0 0 A n t i o x i d a n t s 9 , s .
D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 5 . 0 0
B ) Methocel K 100 LV ( H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ) 0 . 5 0 K e l t r o l F (Xanthan Gum) 0 . 5 0 Hydrov i t o n (Water (and ) Sodium L a c t a t e (and ) L a c t i c A c i d (and ) G l y c e r i n (and) S e r i n e (and ) S o r b i t o l (and ) TEA-Lactate (and ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (and ) Urea (and) Sodium C h l o r i d e (and) L a u r y l D i e t h y l e n e - d i a m i n o g l y c i n e (and ) A l l a n t o i n (and ) L a u r y l Amino- p r o p y l g l y c i ne (and) SD A1 coho1 39-C) 3 .00
P r e s e r v a t i v e 9 . S . Water up t o 100 .00 Perfume O i l 9 . S .
P r e p a r a t i o n : (A ) i s added t o g e t h e r , h e a t e d up t o 75-80 degrees C . , and
homogenized. ( B ) i s s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous, h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e , and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The cream i s t h e n s t i r r e d u n t i l c o o l .
F o r m u l a t i o n 1.1Q
Basic O/W Cream, with Citric Acid Esters
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % A) S o f t i s a n 378 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 . 0 0
M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16 .00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i no1 e a t e / 01 e a t e ) 5 . 0 0
I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l Cocoate) 3 . 0 0 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7 .00 A n t i o x i d a n t s q . s .
B) G l y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t i ves Water
5 . 0 0
up t o 100.00 q . s .
Perfume O i l 0 .30
P r e p a r a t i on :
t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The pe r fume i s added a t c a . deg rees C .
F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . 1 P
( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 degrees C . , and ( B ) i s b r o u g h t t o
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
114 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Dry Skin Cream
Formula: % by Wei ghtWater Phase;Water q.s. to 100Triethanolamine 0.3Glycerine 2,0Methylparaben 0.2Oil Phase:White Protopet 15 Petrolatum (Witco) 3,0Carnation Mineral Oil (Witco) 4.0Cetyl Alcohol 0.5Isopropyl Ricinoleate 3.0Sorbitan Oleate 2.0Steari c Acid 1.0Naturechem GMHS (CasChem) 3.0Naturechem EGHS (CasChem) 1.5Naturechem OHS (CasChem) 2.0Ceresi ne Wax 1 . 1Laureth 23 0.3Propylparaben O.1Fragrance 0.3Procedure:
Heat both phases to 8OC. Add oil phase to water phase withhigh speed mixing. Maintain 8OC temperature while m i x i n g for15 minutes. Allow to cool and continue mixing to 35C; addfragrance; mix thoroughly.
Aloe Night Cream
EonDJJJLJLL %_by_WeightA :Water 6 7 . 6 2 5Methylparaben 0,2Promulgen-D 2.0Triethanolamine 0.75B:Ceraphyl-368 10.0Kessco-653 3.0Emerson-132 6.0Carnation Mineral Oil (Witco) 6.0Glyceryl Monostearate 2.0Propylparaben 0.05Vybar-5013 (Petrolite) 2.0C:Aloe-Con WG-40 (Florida Food Products) 0.375D:Fragrance q.s,
SOURCE: Witco Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Creams 115
Emollient CreamI n g r e d i e n t : A : M e t h y l Glucose D i o l e a t e ( G l u c a t e DO)
W t .%* 1 .50
PEG 20 Methy l Glucose Sesqui s t e a r a t e (G1 ucamate SSE-20) 3 .00
P e t r o l a t u m 8 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( P r o p a l ) 3 .00 M i n e r a l O i l 6 . 0 0 D ime th i cone 0 . 5 0 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( S t e a r a l ) 2 . oo C e t y l A l c o h o l ( C e t a l ) 1 . o o
B: D e i o n i z e d Water 73.70 Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 1 . o o Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 . 3 0
C : P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . P rocedure :
Weigh P a r t B w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h homo- g e n i z e r a t 5000 r p m . Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and Rhod ige l and add them s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . Beg in h e a t i n g t o 70C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m ix f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p roduce a s m a l l v o r t e x . Cool t o 40C and add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and package a t 35C.
Formula f r o m Amerchol Corp.
Hand Cream I n n r e d i e n t : W t * %* A : D ime th i cone , 1000 c s . (SF-96) 2.50
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 2 . 0 0 S t e a r i c A c i d 7.00 L a n o l i n 0 .50 Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax NF ( P o l awax) 4 .00 S o r b i t a n O l e a t e ( A r l a c e l 80) 0 .50 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Tween 6 0 ) 2 .50
B: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 7 .00 Dei o n i zed Water 66.00 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (5% Aqueous
D i s p e r s i o n ) 8 .00 C: P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . P rocedure :
a t 5000 r p m . M i x t h e d i s p e r s i o n f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e i n d i - c a t e d amount o f t h e d i s p e r s i o n i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l . M i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 r p m and add t h e P a r t B w a t e r . Hea t t o 70C. Add t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and m ix f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l , m ix and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m ix a t 1800 rpm f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 70C. Slow t h e m i x e r t o p roduce a s l i g h t v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t C, c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and package a t 35C.
P repare t h e 5% Veegum d i s p e r s i o n u s i n g a homogenizer o p e r a t i n g
Formula f r o m Genera l E l e c t r i c Co. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s
116 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Eye Cream
Thi s emol 1 i e n t cream i s spec i f i c a l l y d e s i gned f o r use around t h e eyes and c o n t a i n s Crodamol ISNP f o r t h e g e n t l e , y e t v e r y e m o l l i e n t , e f f e c t s t h a t i t c o n f e r s t o such d e l i c a t e a reas as t h e eyes, f a c e and neck . Super S t e r o l E s t e r and Cromois t HYA a r e m o i s t u r i z e r s t h a t h e l p keep t h e s k i n a round t h e eyes smooth and s u p p l e . A c o m b i n a t i o n o f Polawax and e t h y l e n e g l y c o l monosteara te i s used t o e m u l s i f y t h e cream.
I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed w a t e r Carbomer 934 G1 y c e r i n
P a r t B: Crodamol ISNP ( I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate) Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) Super S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l
E t h y l e n e G l y c o l Monosteara te
P a r t C:
E s t e r s )
TEA 99%
P a r t D: Cromois t HYA ( H y d r o l y z e d P r o t e i n (and) H y a l u r o n i c A c i d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) Diazo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
Procedure :
Paraben (and ) P r o p y l Paraben
wt%
84.50 0 . 2 5 1 . 5 0
3 .00 3 .00
2 . 0 0 4 .00
0 . 2 5
0 . 5 0
1 .00
Add t h e Carbomer 934 o f P a r t A t o t h e water w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. When homogeneous, add t h e g l y c e r i n o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 60C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
pH=6.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y (RVT S p i n d l e #TB, 10 rpm, 25C)=25,0OOcps+-lO% N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-256
Creams 117
Enriched W/O Cream with Vitamin E Oil
Stage M a t e r i a1 : O i l Phase: 1 Peach K e r n e l O i l 2 Almond O i l USP; Sweet 3 AEC Macadamia Nut O i l 4 AEC Hydroxyoc tacosany l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 5 AEC Methoxy Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 6 AEC PEG 45 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 7 V i t a m i n E O i l Aqueous Phase: 8 Water; Pure 9 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 10 Magnesium S u l p h a t e 11 N ipaguard BPX C o o l i n g C y c l e : 12 Fragrance
Q u a n t i t y
10. ooog 5 . OOOg 3 . OOOg 7 . OOOg 4 , O O O g 3. OOOg 1.5009
60.7709 5, OOOg 0.0809 0.15Og
0.500g M i x i ng I n s t r u c t i o n s :
Heat t h e O i l Phase i n a s u i t a b l e j a c k e t e d v e s s e l . Heat t h e Aqueous Phase i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . S l o w l y add t h e h o t w a t e r t o t h e h o t o i l s w i t h h i g h shear
m i x i n g and mix f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g and m i x w i t h a g a t e t y p e m i x e r ; add t h e per fume a t about 35C and homogenise.
T h i s r i c h w / o e m u l s i o n i s made w i t h n a t u r a l o i l s and uses V i t a m i n E O i l as a f r e e r a d i c a l scavenger .
P r o j e c t : JW 2382/Formula: 796*1
Anti-Wrinkle Cream
Stage M a t e r i a1 : Q u a n t i t y O i l Phase: 1 AEC Hydroxyoc tacosany l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 5 . OOOg 2 AEC Methoxy Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 2 . ooog 3 AEC PEG 45 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 4 . OOOg 4 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 3 . OOOg 5 GMS NSE 3. OOOg 6 AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 5 . OOOg 7 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 7 . OOOg Aqueous Phase: 8 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 5 . OOOg 9 N ipaguard BPX 0 .5009 10 Water; Pure 65.2509 Cool i ng C y c l e : 11 Fragrance 0.2509 M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
T h i s i s a w/o cream. The o i l phase and aqueous phase a r e heated s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C and t h e aqueous phase added s l o w l y t o t h e h o t o i l s w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g . The p r o d u c t i s s t i r r e d s l o w l y u n t i l c o o l and t h e n g i v e n a f i n a l homogenis ing m i x .
V i t a m i n E, V i t a m i n A, Sodium H y u r o l o n a t e and c o l l a g e n wou ld be s u i t a b l e a d d i t i v e s .
P r o j e c t : AEC/Formula R e f . : 1081*0
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
11 8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Contour Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex
I n n r e d i e n t s : a ) Dehymuls F
Vase1 i ne , w h i t e S o f t i s a n Gel P a r a f f i num sub1 . Phenoni p
b ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G l y c e r i n Magnesium S u l f a t e x 7H20
c ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Na3 C i t r a t e x 2 H20 MPC-Milk P e p t i d e Complex
Wei ght% 12.00
5 .00 1 0 . 0 0 10.00
0 . 3 0
46.70 0 .30 5 . 0 0 0 .70
9 .38 0 . 1 2 0 . 5 0
M a n u f a c t u r e : a) M e l t and b r i n g t o app rox . 70C; b ) B r i n g t o app rox . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) ; C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g
c ) Add under s t i r r i n g . Perfume, r o l l . u n t i l cream has c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C.
Moisturizing Cream with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex
I nq r e d i e n t s : a ) Promulgen D
P a r a f f i n u m p e r l i q u i d u m Glucam E - 1 0 Cremerol HMG Phenoni p
b ) Carbopol 940 Water , d i s t i l l e d MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Complex
c ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
Wei p h t % 3 .50
1 0 . 0 0 3 .00 1 . 5 0 0 . 3 0
0 . 1 0 70 .70
0 . 5 0
1 0 . 0 0 0 .30 0 .10
M a n u f a c t u r e : a ) M e l t and d i s s o l v e a t app rox . 75C. A l l o w t o c o o l t o app rox . 40C b) D i s p e r s e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g . c) D i s s o l v e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r i n t o b ) .
Add m i x t u r e bc) t o a ) w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t abc) t o app rox . pH 6 . 8 4 . Homogenize.
SOURCE: Chemi sches L a b o r a t o r i urn D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 119
Gentle Night Repair CreamWater in Oil Emulsion
F o r m u l a t i n g Des gn and Advantages: T h i s p r o d u c t encapsul a t e s Bar1 ey B e t a an a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t
wh ich i s a n t i - m c r o b i a l and reduces t h e e f f e c t s o f s k i n a g i n g . T h i s cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t s i 1 k y f e e l .
O i 1 Phase: Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Hexaned io l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) O z o k e r i t e 164/170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Sun f lower O i 1 (A1 n o r O i 1 ) R i c e Bran O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) Foraha O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s ) F i tode rm-Vege ta l Squalane (Centerchem) S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow C o r n i n g ) G l y c e r o l Monos tea ra te ( W i t c o ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF)
Water Phase: Water (Dei o n i zed) Me thy l Paraben ( A l d r i c h ) Sodium B o r a t e (Amend) Carbopol 940 2% (B .F .Goodr i ch )
A c t i ve Phase : F i r m i ng L i posome (Co l 1 a b o r a t i ve L a b o r a t o r i es ) APT (Centerchem) B e t a Glucan ( K o s t e r Keunen)
Weight% 3 .10 3 . 0 0 3 .00 1 - 0 0 8 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 .50 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 1 0 0.80 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0
48.70 0 . 3 0 0.50 9 .60
4 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
P rocedure :
t e m p e r a t u r e o f 82C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l h e a t t h e components o f t h e w a t e r phase, m i x and m a i n t a i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r under moderate a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . Add t h e B e t a Glucan a t a t e m p e r a t u r e l e s s t h a n 8OC. Cool t o 40C and add t h e F i r m i n g Liposome and APT. Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
A d a p t a t i o n of Formula and Its I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
on t h e f o r m u l a t i o n d e s i r e d .
Heat t h e components o f t h e o i l phase, m ix and m a i n t a i n a t a
S u b s t i t u t i o n can be made o f t h e v a r i o u s p l a n t o i l s depend ing
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
120 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Soft Cream with AH-Acids (O/W)
Ingredients: Wei ght%A) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) 5.00
Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 15,00Softisan 601 (Glyceryl Cocoate (and) HydrogenatedCoconut Oil (and) Ceteareth-25) 12.00
Ewalan ODE-50 (Octy1dodecy1 Lanolate) 2.00
B) Pronalen Fruit Acid AHA-5 (Lemon & Passion FruitConcentrate) 7.00
Preservative q.s.Water up to 100.00
C) Perfume 726096 0.30
Preparation:(A) is heated to 75-80 degrees C. (B) is mixed together,
broght to the same temparature, and emulsified into (A).(C) is added at about 30 degrees C.
Formulati on 1 . 1 M
W/O Cream with 17% Pigments
Ingredi ents: Weight%A) Softisan 378 (Capry1 ic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride) 16.00
Softisan 649 (Bis-Digl ycery 1 Polyacryladipate-1) 28.00Imwitor 78OK (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) 5.00Beeswax 6.00Vit a m i n E (Tocopherol) 0.10Zinc Oxide 16.00Talc 1.00
B) Allantoin 0.20d-Panthenol USP 2.00Preservative q.sWater 25.70
Preparati on;(A) is mixed u n t i l homogeneous and brought up to 75 degrees C.
(B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A).Formu1 at i on 2.1L
SOURCE; Huls America Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Creams 121
Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin
U l t r a l i g h t w e i g h t and l o w c o s t m o i s t u r i z i n g cream f o r no rma l / d r y s k i n . Leaves t h e s k i n w i t h a s o f t s a t i n y f e e l f r o m t h e L i - pona te NPGC-2. L i po/DNS Completech MBAC-DS h e l p s c o n t r o l t h e d ryness o f t h e s k i n .
Seguence -- Raw M a t e r i a l ~- ~__._ : 1 Dei o n i zed Water 1 Me thy lpa raben 1 T r i s o d i urn EDTA
We i s h C/O 66 .35
0 . 2 5 0 . 0 5
2 Carbopol 2984 (2% s o l ' n ) 17 .50
3 L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 3 L i pomul se 165 3 L i p o c o l C 3 P ropy lpa raben 3 B u t y l paraben
4 Dei o n i zed Water 4 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99%
5 D e i o n i z e d Water 5 U n i c i d e U-13
6 Dei o n i zed Water 6 DNS Completech MBAC-OS
4 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 0 . 6 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5
1 . o o 0.35
1 . o o 0 . 2 5
5 . 5 0 1 . 5 0
P rocedure : 1 . Heat Sequence #1 t o 75C. M i x w i t h overhead m i x e r a t medium
2 . Heat Sequence # 2 t o 75C and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h medium
3 . M ix Sequence #3 t o g e t h e r and hea t t o 75C, t h e n add t o b a t c h
4 . Premix Sequence #4 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o b a t c h a t 7
speed u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n t o s o l u t i o n .
a g i t a t i o n ( h o l d i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C).
w i t h medium/high a g i t a t i o n .
S w i t c h t o modera te sweep and c o o l s l o w l y t o 35C. 5 . A t 35C add p remixed Sequence #5 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h
6 . Premix Sequence #6 t o g e t h e r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y i n t o so c o o l t o 25C.
and t h e n add t o b a t c h on sweep m i x e r .
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemica ls I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 868
- 7 5 c .
and
u t i o n
122 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Skin-Feel Cleansing CreamW/O
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages: T h i s a d a p t a t i o n o f a t y p i c a l c o l d cream has been updated w i t h
new i n g r e d i e n t s t o reduce o i l i n e s s w h i l e deep c l e a n s i n g o f t h e s k i n i s s t i l l p o s s i b l e , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a l u x u r i o u s smooth and s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .
O i 1 Phase: Hexaned io l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e r e s i n e 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) I s o s t e a r i c Ac id (Unichema) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( K o s t e r Keunen) Dow 200/100 Dow 245 Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) L i q u a p a r O i 1 ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x )
Wt% 5 . 0 0 3 .00 7 . 0 0
17 .25 2 .00 1 . o o 6 . 0 0
11 .25 2 . 0 0 0 . 3 0
33 .95 10 .00
1 . 2 5
P rocedure :
add b o r a x under a g i t a t i o n . M i x and m e l t o i l phase t o 75C. Add o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s .
Add Carbopol s o l u t i o n t o t h e wa te r phase m i x and h e a t t o 75C,
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
a d d i t i o n o f s m a l l amounts o f p l a n t o i l s f o r l a b e l c l a i m s .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Smal l changes i n t h i s f o r m u l a a r e p o s s i b l e , such as t h e
Hand Care Cream
P a r t A : M u l s i f a n CB Wt% 6 . 0
Dow C o r n i n g 593 F l u i d 2 . 0 D o w C o r n i ng 200-1000 2 . 0 Avocado o i l 3 . 0 P a r a f f i n o i l 2 . 0
P a r t B : Water 8 4 . 0 Carbopol ETD 2001 0 .15
P a r t C: C a u s t i c soda (45%) approx . 0 . 0 7 P a r t D : Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n t i o x i d a n t 0 . 3
M i x p a r t A , B and D each s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B, C and D s u c c e s s i v e l y t o p a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t pH t o approx . pH 6 . 5 u s i n g c a u s t i c soda (15%) o r
c i t r i c a c i d . SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n B27/19
Creams 123
Moisturizer O/W Cream
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages:
t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , wh ich a l l o w s t h e fo rm- u l a t o r t o reduce t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l l o w c o l o r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a non-greasy f e e l and d i m i n i s h e s t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g b y l a y i n g down a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r .
T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e m i n o r components o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s
O i l Phase: Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF Y e l l o w Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) G l y c e r o l Monos tea ra te (Henkel ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Un i chema)
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Spec i a1 t y I n d u s t r i a1 P rod , ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
4 . 5 2 . 5 1 . 0 3.0 3 . 5 6 . 0 6 . 0 2 . 5
6 7 . 8 1 . 5 1 . o 0 . 2 0 . 5
P rocedure :
o i l phase a t 75C under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l c o o l .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e t y p e s o f o i l s s h o u l d o n l y a l t e r t h e v i s c o s i t y , i f m a i n t a i n i n g s i m i l a r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f o i l s . V i s c o s i t y changes a r e a c h i e v e d by r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l monos tea ra te , by a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30-40%, however t h i s may cause i n s t a b i 1 i t y .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Add a mixed and u n i f o r m wa te r phase t o a mixed and u n i f o r m
A c t i v e s a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a p r o d u c t w i t h o u t
124 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Cream w/Tritisol
_____ Formula : A : Po l awax Pncroquat Behenyl TMS C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) B: Dei o n i zed Water T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) Germaben I 1
YO b y W e i g h t
1 0 . 0 0 3 .00 5 . 0 0
8 0 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 . o o
Procedure:
B t o A w i t h good m i x i n g . Con t inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
Combine A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. Heat E3 t o 70C. Add
Makeup Remover Cleansing Creme
_-___ Formul a : A : Water S tearami d o p r o p y l PG D i moni um C h l o r i d e Phosphate Cocami d o p r o p y l PG D i moni um C h l o r i d e Phosphate B : C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) C e t y l A l c o h o l M y r i s t y l A l c o h o l D ime th i cone Propy lene G l y c o l S t e a r a t e
% b L W e i f i t 8 2 . 5
3 . 0 1 . 5
4 . 5 '3 . 0 3 . 5 0.1 1.9
Procedure: Heat p a r t s A and B t o 60C. Add 13 t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n .
Remove h e a t . When p r o d u c t b e g i n s t o t h i c k e n , i n c r e a s e speed of m i x e r t o ensu re adequate a g i t a t i o n . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as r e q u i r e d . S t i r and c o o l t o 34C and f i l l .
Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream
Formula : Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer 934 G l y c e r i n e P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 S t e a r a t e Whi t e Fono l i ne P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o ) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) M y r i s t y l P r o p i o n a t e G l y c e r y l Monos tea ra te S t e a r i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% G l y d a n t P1 u s (Lonza)
SOURCE: W i tco Corp, : Suggested Formul at 1 ons
% b y We igh t 8 2 . 0 0
0 . 5 0 5 . 0 0 1.50 2.00 2.00 2 . 0 0 1.50 2 . 5 0 1 .oo
g . s .
Creams 125
Moisturizing Daycream
S e r i c i n i n t h i s p l e a s a n t daycream p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n b y i t s f i l m f o r m i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Due t o t h i s h i g h - m o l e c u l a r p r o t e i n , t h e emu ls ion i s a l s o i d e a l as a make-up base.
___ I t e m : I n n r e d i e n t x 1 A) G l u c a t e SS 2 Glucamate SSE 20 3 S t e a r i c A c i d 4 Promulgen D 5 Modul an 6 P a r a f f i n O i l 7 E u t a n o l G
8 B ) Water demi n e r a l i zed 9 Phenoni p
10 Glucam E 20 11 Carbopol 1342
12 C) T r i e t h a n o l a m
13 D) S e r i c i n 14 Fragrance/Ch
Procedure :
ne
a r a 0/238927
%wVy 1 . 2 0 1 . 8 0 1 . 5 0 1 . o o 1 . o o 5 . 0 0 1 . o o
77 .30 0 . 5 0 4.00 0 I 40
PH 6
5 . 0 0 0 . 3 0
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 7 5 C . Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A ) , w i t h i t e m 12 a d j u s t
Then add i t e m s 1 3 and 1 4 , one a f t e r a n o t h e r . t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A020,A/10.93
126 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Day Cream (Sericin)S e r i c i n i n t h i s p l e a s a n t day cream p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n by i t s
f i l m f o r m i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Due t o t h i s h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t p r o t e i n , t h e e m u l s i o n i s a l s o i d e a l as a make-uD base. Item I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 A) G l u c a t e SS 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 B) 9
10 11 12 C) 13 D) 14
Procedure :
Glucamate SSE 20 S t e a r i c A c i d Promulgen D Modul an P a r a f f i n O i 1 Eutano l G Dei o n i zed Water Phenoni p Glucam E 20 Carbopol 1342 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , q . s . pH 6 . 0 S e r i c i n Fragrance-Ch iara 0/238927
Wei q h t % 1 . 2 0 1 . 8 0 1 .50 1 - 0 0 1 . o o 5 .00 1 .oo
77.30 0 . 5 0 4 . 0 0 0 .40
5 .00 0 . 3 0
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 0 ) t o phase A) , w i t h i t e m 12 a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add i t e m s 13 and 14 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r .
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 020.A/10.93
Incroquat Behenyl TMS Cream T h i s b a s i c f o r m u l a t i o n shows how I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS can
f o r m a s t a b l e and e l e g a n t , y e t s i m p l e , e m u l s i o n . The s o f t / powdery f e e l i t c o n f e r s on t h e s k i n i s due t o t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f t h e behenyl q u a t . I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% P a r t A : I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imonium M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 .00
Crodamol I S N P ( I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate) 5.00 D i m e t h i c o n e 200 (2OOcps) 1 .oo Vo lpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0 .10 Vo lpo S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) 0 . 5 0 P e t r o l a t u m 2 .00 P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water 79.40 P a r t C : Dei o n i zed Water 5 .00 H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 1 . o o P a r t D : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy lparaben (and) P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1 .oo
Crodasome CM-Glucan (Sodium Carboxymethy l B-Glucan) 1 . o o I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA (Acetamide MEA ( a n d ) Lactamide MEA) 1 . 0 0
SOURCE: Croda I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-269
pH=5.0+-0.5 Viscosity=16,000cps+-lO% (RVT S p i n d l e #TC, 10 rpm, 25C)
Creams 127
Moisturizing Skin CreamAn e l e g a n t and r i c h m o i s t u r i z i n g cream based on t h e NMF
( N a t u r a l M o i s t u r i z i n g F a c t o r ) concep t of Prodew 100. I n g r e d i e n t : W t .%* A : D e i o n i z e d Water 59 .60
Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 . o o T r i e t h a n o l ami ne , 99% 2 . 4 0 Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 . 2 0
B: Squalane ( F i t o d e r m ) 6.00 C e t y l P a l m i t a t e 4 .00 D i o c t y l M a l e a t e 8 .00 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l I s o s t e a r a t e 4 .00 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a p e l a r g o n a t e 4 .00 D i me th i cone ( 100 c s . ) 0 . 8 0 Hydrogenated Soy G l y c e r i d e 1 - 0 0 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 1 . 0 0
Sodium PCA (and) H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n (Prodew 100) 3 . 0 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m ix w i t h a
S t e a r i c A c i d 5 . 0 0 C : S o r b i t o l (and) Sodium L a c t a t e (and ) P r o l i n e (and )
Procedure:
homogenizer a t 5000 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum HV and R h o d i g e l , add them s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 6%. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t 5000 rpm. Weigh t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m ix f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p roduce a s m a l l v o r t e x . Cool w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C and add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and package a t a t 25-3OC.
I n a r e d i e n t s : W t .%* A : S t e a r i c A c i d 2 .00
C e t y l A l c o h o l 2 .00 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 2 .00 L a n o l i n O i l ( L a n t r o l 1673) 10.00
Moisturizing Cream
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 3 . 0 0 B : Veegum , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 1 .50
D e i o n i z e d Water 74.50 C : G l y c e r i n 4 .00
D: P r e s e r v a t i ve 9 . S . Procedure :
homogenizer o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 r p m and b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. S l o w l y add t h e Veegum and m ix f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each f o r 3 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B a t 70C and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o p roduce a s m a l l v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D and package a t 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE:R.T.Vanderbilt Co., I n c . : Formulas: Centerchem/ICI Amer ica
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne , 99% 1 . o o
Weigh t h e P a r t B w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l . M i x w i t h an
128 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Multi Purpose Cream
T h i s w h i t e , creamy e m u l s i o n ha5 a good c o s m e t i c t e x t u r e and i s s u i t a b l e f o r d i f f e r e n t a p p l i c a t i o n s . P h y t a l u r o n a t e adds a p l e a s - a n t s l i p t o t h e f o r m u l a , whereas F i t o b r o s i d e ( p e n e t r a t i o n enhancer) and R e v i t a l i n - B T e x e r t t h e i r a c t i o n s i n deeper l a y e r s o f t h e s k i n .
I t e m : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
I n Q r e d i e n t s : A ) G l u c a t e SS
Glucamate SSE 20 S t e a r i c a c i d Promulgen D Modul an M i n e r a l o i l E u t a n o l G
8 8 ) Water demi n e r a l i zed 9 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a
10 Phenoni p 11 Glucam E 20 12 P h y t a l u r o n a t e 13 Revi t a l i n-BT 14 Carbopol 1342
%w/w 1 . 2 0 1 . 8 0 1 . 5 0 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 4 .00 2 .QO
71 - 6 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 3 0 4.00 3 . 0 0 3 .00 0 . 5 0
15 C) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0 . 6 0
16 D ) F i t o b r o s i d e 3 . 0 0
17 E ) Fragrance /B lack Dragon I 1 0/232511 0 . 3 0
P rocedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 8) t o phase A ) , w i t h phase C ) a d j u s t
Than add phases D) and E) one a f t e r a n o t h e r and s t i r c o l d . t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 3 0 C .
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 028.6/07.93
Creams 129
Neck Firming Cream
Formul a t i n g Desi gn and Advantages : The neck i s t h e most n e g l e c t e d p a r t o f t h e body and shows
t h e f i r s t v i s i b l e s i g n s o f a g i n g . T h i s p r o d u c t d e l i v e r s a c t i v e s t o t h a t a r e a i n a c o s t e f f e c t i v e p r o d u c t wh ich has e m o l l i e n t and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s t h a t f i r m s t i n y l i n e s . C o n t i n u e d use h e l p s promote t h e l o o k o f f i r m , r e s i l i e n t , s o f t , y o u t h f u l - l o o k i n g s k i n .
Phase A : Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) Shea B u t t e r (Sederma) S t e a r i c Ac id (Unichema) M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l Monos tea ra te ( K o s t e r Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) P h y t o g l y c o l i p i d ( B a r n e t ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G)
Phase B: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Carbopol 940 ( B . F . G o o d r i c h ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) G1 y c e r i n (Uni chema) A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
Phase C: E l a s t o s o l Animal C o l l a g e n & E l a s t i n (Croda)
3.0 5 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 0 1 . 5 3 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 5
5 7 . 9 0 . 2 0 . 4 2 . 0 0 . 5 2 . 0 1 . o
5 . 0
P rocedure :
homogeneous. Heat Phase B t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase A t o Phase B under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C . C o n t i n e m i x i n g t i l l 35 t o 40C.
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a f o r m u l a o f t h i s
t y p e . By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f w a t e r and /o r t h e o i l s , E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) can b e s u b s t i t u t e d a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% t o p roduce an SPF o f 6-8.
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Weigh o u t m a t e r i a l s f o r Phase A , h e a t t o 80C and m i x t i l l
130 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Cream
Phase : A A A A A B B B B B B B B C D
I n g r e d i e n t : D e i o n i zed Water Sodi um B o r a t e G1 y c e r i n Xanthan Gum Te t rasod ium EDTA C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 S o r b i t a n Sesqui 01 e a t e G l y c e r y l Monos tea ra te O i l s o f A loha Macadamia Nut O i l V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e Beeswax M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l P a l m i t a t e Germaben I 1 F rag rance
Wt% 43.45
0 . 7 0 2.00 0 . 3 0 0 .10 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 8.00 0 . 2 0
1 2 . 0 0 15.00 8 .00 1 .oo 0 . 2 5
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure:. Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase 6 t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C. Add remai n i ng phases . Homogeni ze .
T h i s f o r m u l a i s meant t o be l e f t on t h e s k i n and t o have a h e a v i e r f i l m so t h a t i t l a s t s a l l n i g h t . T h i s i s a w a t e r i n o i l emu ls ion and t h e p r i n c i p a l e m u l s i f i e r s a r e S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e and a c o m b i n a t i o n o f sodium b o r a t e and beeswax. The c o m b i n a t i o n o f o i l s g i v e s p r o p e r w e i g h t and f e e l . Cou ld be a l l Macadamia Nut O i l , b u t i t m i g h t be expens ive . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n can a l s o be used as a makeup remover f o r l i p s t i c k and eye makeup. SOURCE: O i l s o f A loha: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Cold Cream
Formula: P o l y s y n l a n e ( P o l y e s t h e r ) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a i O i 1 (Wi t c o ) P a r a f f i n Wax I . P . M . Beeswax Lano l i n Propy lene G l y c o l P o t a s s i um Hydrox i de A r l a c e l 40 P . O . E . S o r b i t o l Beeswax S t e a r i c A c i d Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water, t o
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
% by Weigh t 32 # 0
4 . 0 4 . 0 8 . 0 3 . 0 8 . 0 4 . 0 0 . 3 2 . 5 1 . o 1 . 5 q . s
1 0 0 . 0
Creams 131
Night Cream
M i n e r a l O i l R i t a c h o l R i t a c h o l 1000 P a t i o n i c SSL R i t a EGMS P a t i o n i c I S L R i tawax Propy lpa raben D i s t i l l e d Water P ropy lene G1 y c o l Me thy lpa raben
pH: 5 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 135,000 cps S t a b i 1 i ti e s :
4F: No change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: V . s l . s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 week
11OF: V . s l . s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 24 h r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 111-204
Night Cream
M i n e r a l O i l R i t a c h o l R i t a c h o l 1000 P a t i o n i c SSL R i t a EGMS P a t i o n i c I S L R i tawax P r o p y l p a r a b e n D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Me thy lpa raben R i t a v e n a 5
pH: 5 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 175,000 cps S t a b i 1 i t i e s :
4F: No change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: No change a f t e r 6 weeks
11OF: S1. s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 24 h r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 111-205
5 8.00 4 .00 8 .00 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 2.00 1 . o o 0 .10
60.70 5 .00 0 . 2 0
Q 8.00 4 .00 8 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 2 .00 1 . o o 0 .10
58 .70 5 .00 0 . 2 0 2 . 0 0
SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A . Co rp , : Ritavena 5: Suggested Formulations
132 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Repair Cream
- I n q r ed i e_n_t,s_ 1 . N a t u r a l Beeswax 2 , O z o k e r i t e 3 . L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l 4 . R i t a I P M ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 5 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 6 . R i t o x 59 (PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 7 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 8 . R i t a c e t - 2 0 (Ce tea re th -20 ) 9 . I s o s t e a r i c A c i d 10 .Tocophero l 1 1 . R e t i n y l P a l m i t a t e 1 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 3 , D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea 14.Sodium B o r a t e 1 5 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 1 6 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 17. Tens i ne (Wheat P r o t e i n )
7 . 3 0 4 .30
19 .50 2 . 3 0 2 .10 1 . 5 0 1 .20 1 . o o 0 . 8 0 0 . 1 0 0 .10
53.25 1 * o o 0 . 4 0 0 . 1 5 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0
Compounding Procedure : D i s p e r s e i t e m 15 i n i t e m 12 w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 70C. Combine
i t e m s 1-11 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . Add t o w a t e r phase. Add i t e m s 13 and 14 and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m s 16 and 1 7 .
R e f . N o . 122-17C
Cleansing Cream
A g l o s s y w a t e r - i n - o i 1 c l e a n s i ng cream c o n t a i n i ng C1 a r i s k i n w i t h t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f a t t e n u a t i n g s k i n bro+dn s p o t s .
I ng r ed i en t s : 1 . R i t a h y d r o x ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 2 I R i t a s o l ( I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e ) 3 . N a t u r a l BeeSwaX 4 . M i n e r a l O i l (D rakeo l -9 ) 5 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 6 . O z o k e r i t e 7 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 . B i o c a r e Polymer HA-24 9 . Borax ( 9 9 . 5%) 1 0 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeas t E x t r a c t ) 11.Germaben I I E 12.Perfume
- %wJy 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
10 .00 4 4 . 0 0
2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
23 .60 3 . 8 0 0 . 6 0 5 . 0 0 1 - 0 0
q . s .
Compoundi ng Procedure :
Heat t o 45-50C i f necessa ry . When d i s p e r s e d , add i t e m 9 and h e a t t o 80C. M i x i t e m s 1-6 and hea t t o 8 0 C . Add w a t e r phase t o o i l phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 11 a t 75C. Con t inue t o mix u n t i l m i x t u r e reaches 35C, t h e n add i t e m s 1 0 and 1 1 .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Add i t e m 8 t o i t e m 7 a t 25C. Mix u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d .
R e f . No. 122-798
Creams 133
Night Repair Cream
Formula: O c t v l d i m e t h v l Paba F i n s o l ve C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) Wh i te P r o t o p e t 1s ( W i t c o ) S t e a r i c Ac id A c e t y l a t e d - L a n o l i n Amerchol -L-101 Genero l -1 22 Generol-122E-10 Lexemul Benzy le , A l c o h o l Ceraphy l -65 G l y c e r i n Se l a s t i n E L - 1 0 (Seco l ) Water C o l l a g e n Secolan BA 1-1% S o l u t i o n ( S e c o l ) Na-Hya lu rona te S e l u r o n 1% S o l u t i o n ( S e c o l ) Germa l l 115 F rag rance
% by Weiqh t 3 2 2 3 2 3 3 2 3 8 3 2 5
10 q . s .
5 3 0 .25
As D e s i r e d
Facial Cleansing Cream
Formula: A : G e l w h i t e GP Water S o r b i t o 1 (70%) B : P o l e s t a r 400A (ECC Amer ica) C : C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) S o l u l a n 16 Tween 80 A r l a c e l 186 Whi t e P r o t o p e t 1 S S y n t h e t i c Beeswax P r e s e r v a t i v e s
% by Weight
2 . 0 31 . O
5 . 0
20 .0
1 7 . 0 3 . 0 1 . o 3 . 0
1 0 . 0 5 . 0 q . s .
Procedure :
shear . Add g l y c e r i n e and S o r b i t o l a t moderate speed u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A w i t h s l o w m i x i n g . Combine C and h e a t t o 65C. Heat A/B t o 70C and s l o w l y add t o C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l temp. c o o l s t o 30C. Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s and m ix u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
S l o w l y add G e l w h i t e t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g a t maximum
134 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Time Moisturizing Cream
R i c h e m u l s i o n c o n t a i n i n g R i t a s i l 190 as a l u b r i c a n t .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . M i n e r a l O i l ( B r i s t o l 9 NF) 2 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 3 . S t e a r i c A c i d 4 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 6 . R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 7 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 8 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 9 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 99Y0 10 .Dermacry l -79 (Acrylates/Octylpropenamide Copolymer) 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer 934) 12 . Germaben 11 E 13. F r a g r a n c e
o/ow/w 10.00
2 . 0 0 4 .00 1 . o o 1 . o o 0 .50 3,OO
74.75 1 . 3 0 1 . o o 0 . 2 5 1 . o o 0 .20
Compounding P rocedure : Heat w a t e r and T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% t o 80C. S l o w l y s i f t
i t e m 10 and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . S i f t i t e m 11 s l o w l y . Combine i t e m s 1-7 i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 80C and m ix u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 1-7 t o i t e m s 8-10 and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 80C. Cool t o 40C, t h e n add i t e m s 12 and 13 .
R e f . No. 121-96
Cleansing Cream
A c l e a n s i n g cream w i t h R a f f e r m i n e t o promote s k i n f i r m n e s s and reduce s k i n e l a s t i c i t y w i t h e m o l l i e n c e f r o m R i t a c h o l and humectancy f rom g l y c e r i n e .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 3 . M i n e r a l O i l ( L i g h t ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5 , D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 6 . G l y c e r i n e 7 , R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 8 . G l y d a n t 9 . F rag rance
o/,w/w 3 .00 4 . 0 0
20 I O 0 3 .00
6 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 . o o
q . s .
Compoundi ng P rocedure :
h e a t t o 70C w i t h m i x i n g . Add o i l t o w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s 7-9.
Combine i t e m s 1 -4 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 5 and 6 and
Ref. No. 120-205A
SOURCE: R , I . T . A , C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creanis 135
Nighttime Moisturizing Cream
A g l o s s y w h i t e n i g h t cream c o n t a i n i n g a c o l l a g e n f i b e r r e s t r u c t u r i ng b o o s t e r : R a f f e r m i n e . T h i s e l e g a n t cream a1 so c o n t a i n s R i t a IPP and R i t a l a n as e m o l l i e n t s .
I n n r e d i e n t s : 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 2 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 3 . S t e a r i c A c i d 4 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 6 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 7 . R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 8 . D i s t i 1 1 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 9 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 10. A c r y l a t e s / t - O c t y l propenami de Copolymer 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer) 12.Germaben I I E 13. Fragrance 1 4 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r )
%w/w 10.00
2 .00 4 . 0 0 3 .00 1 . o o 1 . o o 0 . 5 0
71 - 9 5 1 . 3 0 1 . o o 0 . 2 5 1 . o o q . s
3.00
Compounding Procedure :
and mix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Then s l o w l y add A c r i t a m e r and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 80C and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Add t o w a t e r and mix f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 80C. Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s 12-14.
Combine i t e m s 8 and 9 and h e a t t o 80C. S l o w l y add i t e m 10
R e f . No. 122-3A
Under Make-up Cream for Normal Skin
An e l e g a n t , non-greasy, p r o t e c t i v e day cream f o r under make-up use, Tens ine smoothes t h e s k i n and h e l p s make-up s t a y on.
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . C e t e a r e t h - 1 5 3 . R i t a I P P ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 6 . Propy lene G l y c o l 7 . Methy lparaben 8 . Propy lparaben 9 . Borage O i l 10. Fragrance 11 I Tensi ne (Wheat P r o t e i n )
%w/w 8 . 0 0 3 .00 5 .00 5 .00
63 .80 5 .00 0 . 1 5 0 . 0 5 3 .00 1 . o o 6 . 0 0
Compounding Procedure : Heat i t e m s 1-4 t o 70C. Heat i t e m s 5-8 t o 70C. Add o i l t o
w a t e r . Cool t o 40C. Add i t e m s 9-11. R e f . No. 122-13
SOURCE: R . I , T . A , C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
136 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-Free Exfoliating Cream
Formul a t i ng Desi gn and Advantages : The use o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g agent ( e a s i l y d i s p e r s e d ) i n
t h i s cream f o r m u l a g i v e s a marve lous , n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s i v e q u a l i t y f o r t h e removal of spent s u r f a c e c e l l s . T h i s w i l l renew and r e v i t a l i z e worn and damaged s k i n , l e a v i n g a b a r r i e r wh ich c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and d e o d o r i z e d orange wax.
Phase A : Deodor ized Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) D i meth i cone 200/100 (Dow) G l y c e r o l Monosteara te ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P & G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema)
Phase B: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) Propy lene G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( S p e c i a l t y I n d u s t r i a l Prod . ) Carbopol 940 (BFGoodr ich) M e t h y l Paraben ( A l d r i c h )
Wt% 3 . 0 2 . 0 3 . 0 7 . 5 1 . 5 1 . o 3 . 0
6 4 . 3 5 2 . 5 1 . o 0 . 2 0 . 2 0 . 7 5
Phase C: M i c r o g r a n u l a t e d Carnauba, 20-60 mesh ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 0 . 0
Procedure :
B a t 75C under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate your p r e f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . For s e n s i t i v e s k i n , reduce t h e orange wax, and r e p l a c e w i t h K e s t e r Wax 62 and C e r e s i n 130/135. A low v i s c o s - i t y w i l l a l l o w t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n an open j a r . The f o r m u l a t i n g advantages remain u n - a l t e r e d by t h e changes i n v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Add a mixed and u n i f o r m Phase A t o a mixed and u n i f o r m Phase
V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p r o d u c t can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by s u b s t i t u t -
Creams 137
O/W-Cream
Rec ipe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGS
Wt% 5 . 0 0
H o s t a c e r i n DGL I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e Almond o i 1 J o j o b a o i l Wheat germ o i l Sunf 1 ower o i 1 A n t i o x i dan t
B Carbopo l 980
C Aquamo l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n ( 1 0 % ) Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
D F rag rance Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add 0 . 2 Heat C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e emu ls ion .
Formula A V I /1852
O/W-Cream"contains no ethylene oxide"
R e c i L e i A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS
M i n e r a l o i l , l o w v i s c o s i t y Eu tano l G Almond o i 1 A n t i o x i d a n t
0 . 5 0 8 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 2 .00 5 . 0 0 4 . 0 0
a . s
0.30
0 . 1 0 0 . 2 5 1 . 2 0
69 .25 q . s
0 . 4 0
W t % 5 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 7 . 0 0 6 . 0 0
C I . S
B Carbopo l 980 0 . 5 0
C Hostapon KCG C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i on ( 1 0%) Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
0 . 4 0 2 . 0 0
68 .70 a . s
D F rag rance 0 . 4 0 P rocedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 80C, t h e n add B . 2 . Heat C t o c a . 80C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l , 4 . A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 . Homogenize t h e emu ls ion .
Formula A V I /1751
SOURCE: Hoechs t : Gu ide Rec ipes f o r t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y
138 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Cream
Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS
Hos tapha t KML M i n e r a l o i l , l o w v i s c o s i t y E u t a n o l G Almond o i 1 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e A n t i o x i d a n t
B Carbopol 980
C C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve
D F r a g r a n c e
Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 8OC, t h e n add 0 . 2 Heat C t o c a . 8OC. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n .
Formula A V I / 1 5 5 0
O/W-Cream"Contains no ethylene oxide",
manufacturing at room temperature possible
Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n D G I
M i n e r a l o i l , l o w v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e E u t a n o l G
B Carbopol 980
C Hostapon KCG Caust i c soda s o l u t i on ( 10%) Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
D F rag rance
Wt% 4.00 2.00 8 . 0 0 6.00 4 . 0 0 4.00
q . s .
0 . 5 0
2 .70 0 . 1 0 0 .25
6 8 . 1 5 q . s .
0 . 3 0
Wt% 2 . 0 0 8 .00 4 . 0 0 4 . 0 0
0 .70
0.80 2 .80
77 I 30 a . s .
0 .40
P rocedure : 1 . S t i r B i n t o A, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2 . S t i r D i n t o 1 . 3 . F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n .
SOURCE: Hoechst : Guide Recipes f o r t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y Formula A V1/1752
Creams 139
Phytodermin
Phytodermi n c o n t a i ns s o l u b i 1 i zed h i g h m o l e c u l a r wei g h t c o n s t i t u e n t s o f t h e p l a n t m a t r i x f r o m soybeans i n n a t u r a l d i s t r i b u t i o n : h y d r o x y p r o l i n e - r i c h g l y c o p r o t e i n s as e x t e n s i n s , a r a b i noga l a c t a n s as p r o t e o g l ycan e q u i Val e n t s and p r o 1 i ne- r i c h g l y c o p r o t e i n s . The s p e c i f i c , most g e n t l e p r o d u c t i o n p rocedure a p p l i ed i n t h e case o f Phy todermi n mai n t a i n s , c o n t r a r y t o c o n v e n t i o n a l soya h y d r o l y s a t e s , t h e n a t i v e c h a r a c t e r o f t h e m a t r i x components c o n t a i n e d . I n i n v i v o t e s t s , Phy to- de rm in has p roved t o be an e f f i c i e n t a l t e r n a t i v e t o t h e c l a s s i c an ima l d e r i v e d m a t r i x c o m p o s i t i o n .
Regenerative Cream, Type W/O, with PhytoderminIns red ignLs : . Wei n h t %
Dehymu 1 s PGPH Lameform T G I Be e s w a x I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l 868 Phenoni p Oxynex LM Water , d i s t i 1 1 ed Phenoni p K a r i o n F l i q u i d Phytodermi n
7 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0
4 9 . 3 0 0 . 3 0 5 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 Manu fac tu re : a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o app rox . 75C; b ) Heat t o app rox . 7 5 C and s t i r i n t o a ) .
c ) S t i r i n . Con t inue s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o app rox . 30C;
Perfume, r o l l .
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i urn D r I K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
O/W Basic Cream, Without Paraffin
I n g r e d j e_nts: We1 g h t % A) S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( a n d ) Hydrogenated
Coconut O i l (and) Ce tea re th -25 ) 3 5 . 0 0 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 3 . 0 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l 2 . 0 0
B) P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s . Water 6 0 . 0 0 T h i s b a s i c cream can be used t o i n c o r p o r a t e n o n i o n i c a c t i v e
i n g r e d i e n t s . P r e p a r a t i o n :
t e m p e r a t u r e and t h e n e m u l s i f i e d i n t o (A). The cream is t h e n c o n s t a n t l y s t i r r e d u n t i 1 c o o l .
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . 1 N
( A ) i s hea ted t o c a . 65 degrees C . ( B ) is hea ted t o t h e same
140 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Protective Cream with Cromoist CM Glucan
Due t o t h e i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f C romo is t CM Glucan, t h i s cream can p r o t e c t s k i n f r o m e n v i r o n m e n t a l i n s u l t and h e l p i t t o f u n c t i o n b e t t e r . C r o m o i s t CM Glucan i s a u n i q u e p r o t e c t i v e and t h e r a p e u t i c agen t t h a t works by s t i m u l a t i n g t h e s k i n ’ s own d e f e n s e mechanisms, r e s u l t i n g i n p r o t e c t i v e e f f e c t s t h a t enhance s k i n f u n c t i o n and i n c r e a a s e t h e s k i n ’ s r e s i s t a n c e t o UVA- i n d u c e d o x i d a t i v e s t r e s s . C roda fos CES i s a s u b s t a n t i v e phosphate-based e m u l s i f y i n g system t h a t enhances t h e d e l i v e r y o f t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s and improves t h e a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e cream.
I n a r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % P a r t A : Croda fos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 4 . 0 Crodamol GTCC ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 . 0 Corona PNL ( L a n o l i n ) 1 . o
P a r t B : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (98%)
P a r t C : D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s )
6 9 . 8 0 . 2
5 . 0 1 . o
P a r t D : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and ) M e t h y l -
paraben (and ) P ropy lpa raben 1 . o C romo is t CM-Glucan (Sodium Carboxymethy l B-Glucan) 1 . o I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA (Ace tamide MEA (and ) Lac tamide MEA) 5 . 0
P a r t E : Dei o n i zed Water DL Panthenol
5 . 0 2 . 0
pH=4.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 2 0 , 0 0 0 cps+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e #TC @ 10 rpm @ 25C)
P rocedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A t o B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C, D and E w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-265
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC.
Creams 141
Rain Forest Cream
T h i s f o r m u l a produces a r e l a t i v e l y v i s c o u s , s h i n y w h i t e cream and f e a t u r e s C r o n a t u r a l Cohune O i l , an e m o l l i e n t o i l h a r v e s t e d o u t o f t h e r a i n f o r e s t , and Crodafos CES. The use o f Crodafos CES enhances t h e f o r m u l a t i o n ' s a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s s i g n i f - i c a n t l y , a l l o w i n g t h e cream t o r u b i n e f f o r t l e s s l y w i t h o u t any i n d i c a t i o n o f d r a g . Crodafos CES c o n f e r s a p l e a s i n g e m o l l i e n c e , p r o v i d i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a c o n d i t i o n e d a f t e r f e e l .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wt% P a r t A : C r o n a t u r a l Cohune O i l (Cohune O i l ) 10 .00 Crodafos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 6 .50
P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 2984 G l y c e r i n Na2EDTA
P a r t C: TEA 99%
79.00 0 . 2 0 2.00 0 .05
1 . 2 5
P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben 1 . o o
V iscos i t y=22 ,000+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e 8, 1Orpm @ 25C) pH=7.0+-0.5
Procedure :
Carbomer 2984 i n t o w a t e r o f P a r t B. When f u l l y h y d r a t e d , add g l y c e r i n w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . Add C t o A/B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-254
D i s s o l v e t h e Na2EDTA o f P a r t B i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . D i s p e r s e
N . A . T . C . Approved
142 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Rejuvenating AHA Cream (W/O Emulsion)
I n q r e d i e n t s : O i l Phase: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and ) C e t y l D ime th i cone
Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) C e t y l D ime th i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) Cyc l ometh i cone
C o p o l y o l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09)
Water Phase: Water NaCl P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Sodi um C i t r a t e M a l i c Ac id G r a n u l a r Sodium L a c t a t e (and ) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and )
F r u c t o s e (and ) Urea (and ) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l (and ) Sodium Benzoate (and) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l )
P r e s e r v a t i v e s , C o l o r , F rag rance
Procedure : 1 . Add t h e comoonents o f t h e o i l ohase t o o e t h e r . Heat
Wei q h t %
5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 5.00 4 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 . o o 4 .00
70.75 0 .80 2 . 0 0 0 . 6 0 1 . 6 0
0 .25 Q . S .
t o 80-85C t o m e l t a n d ' d i s p e r s e t h e waxes'. When d i s p e r s e d , c o o l and m a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 45-50C.
2 . M i x w a t e r , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and sodium c h l o r i d e t o g e t h e r d i s s o l v i n g sodium c h l o r i d e . Add and m ix t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d - i e n t s o f t h e w a t e r phase.
3 . A d j u s t t h e pH o f t h e w a t e r phase t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 i f necessa ry . 4 . W i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s l o w l y s t r e a m t h e w a t e r phase i n t o
5 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , cool t o 35C. 6 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 7 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r homogenizer .
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp I : Suggested Formul a t i on
t h e o i 1 phase.
Creams 143
Skin Care Cream
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages:
appearance, t hough t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s wh ich a r e h i g h l y e f f - e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . The f o r m u l a a l s o w i l l h e l p reduce t r a n s e p i d e r m a l w a t e r l o s s .
T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y
Oil Phase: C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 1618 (P&G) NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) L i g h t M i n e r a l Oil ( W i t c o ) P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Coconut O i 1 (CocoChem) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) G l y c e r i n e (UniChema) Carboxymethy l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, H e r c u l e s ) Carbopol 940 (BFGoodr ich) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) Me thy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
wt% 4 . 5 0 2 .50 3 . 0 0 5 .00 1.50 0 . 5 0 1 . 2 5 0 . 2 0
74.25 5.50 0 . 3 0 0 . 6 0 0 - 4 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 2 0
P rocedure : Add t o t h e w a t e r phase under a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l
e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n p r o p y l paraben w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add Carbopo l , m ix t i l l homogeneous making s u r e t h e r e i s no a g g l o m e r a t i o n . Add t h e rema inder o f t h e w a t e r phase components, m ix and h e a t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase under a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l b y 2.0%,
p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y as t h e above f o r m u l a . F rag rances can a l s o be added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g i t s t e x t u r e .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
144 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream
F o r m u l a t i n g Desi gn and Advantages:
cream. The e m u l s i f y i n g wax adds t o t h e s t a b i l i t y and r i c h n e s s o f t h e
O i l Phase: E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) Sunf 1 ower O i 1 (A1 n o r o i 1 ) 01 i ve O i 1 , Unsaponi f i ab1 e (Col l a b o r a t i v e Labs) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Unichema) L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema)
W> 1 2 . 0
6 . 0 3.0 2 . 0 1 . 0
7 4 . 0 2 .0
P rocedure :
75C. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase. C o o l .
A d a p t a t i o n of Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
M i x and h e a t o i l phase t o 75C. M ix and h e a t w a t e r phase t o
O t h e r a c t i v e s may b e s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e o l i v e o i l .
Hand Care Cream
P a r t A : S e t a c i n F S p e z i a l Pas te I m w i t o r 960 M i g l y o l 840
Water P a r t B : Carboxymethy l C e l l u l o s e
P a r t C : L a c t i c a c i d Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
!&& 5 8 . 0 1 0 . 0
5 . 0
0 . 5 2 5 . 5
0 . 3 0 . 7
M i x p a r t A , B and C each s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B and C s u c c e s s i v e l y t o p a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n B 2 7 / 1 4
Creams 145
Skin Lightening Night Cream Against Age Spots
T h i s a g r e e a b l e , r i c h n i g h t cream c o n t a i n s M e l f a d e , wh ich has a b l e a c h i n g a c t i v i t y . P e n t a v i t i n p r o v i d e s t h e s k i n w i t h m o i s t u r e and r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n .
Item I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 A) Cremophor A6 2 Cremophor A25 3 C u t i n a GMS 4 L a n e t t e 0 5 S t e a r i c A c i d 6 P a r a f f i n O i l 7 C e t i o l SN 8 Vase1 i ne w h i t e 9 Abi 1-350
10 8) D e i o n i z e d Water 11 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 12 Phenoni p 13 G1 y c e r i n 14 P e n t a v i t i n 15 M e l f a d e
Wei n h t % 2.50 2 .50 4 .00 3 .00 1 . o o
10 .00 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 4 . 0 0
51 - 0 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 .00
16 C ) F rag rance : Chi a r a 0/238927 0 .30
P rocedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d .
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 032 .8 /01 .96
Cleansing Cream with Salicylic Acid
I n n r e d i e n t s : Weight% A . S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l Cocoate (and ) Hydrogenated
Coconut O i l ( and ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) 18.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 10 .00 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 15 .00 C e t y l A1 coho1 2 .00 S a l i cy1 i c A c i d 0 .50
B . P r e s e r v a t i ve Water
q . s . up t o 100.00
P r e p a r a t i o n :
h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and i s e m u l s i f i e d i n t o " A t t . S t i r u n t i l c o l d .
I n g r e d i e n t s o f "A t1 a r e m e l t e d t o abou t 75 degrees C . " B t l i s
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . 1 L
146 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Rejuvenating Cream
A s y n e r g i s t i c c o m b i n a t i o n o f Gum i s used t o t h i c k e n and s t a b Approx i mate1 y 5% G1 y c o l i c Ac i d , o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o r m u l a t o p r o v a t i n g f u n c t i o n .
Veegum P l u s and Rhod ige l Xanthan l i z e t h i s o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n . an a lpha-hydroxy a c i d , i s i n c o r p - de i t s we l l -known s k i n r e j u v e n -
I n n r e d i e n t : A : Veegum P1 us, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e
Dei o n i zed Water Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum
W t .%* 0 . 9 5
63 I 67 0 . 2 9
B : G l y c e r i n 4 .75
C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 0 . 7 1
D : C e t y l A l c o h o l 2 . 8 5 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 4 . 2 8 S t e a r i c A c i d 1 . 4 3 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 4 . 2 8 M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) Lano l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) 4 .28 D imeth icone (350 c s . ) 1 . 4 3
E : P r e s e r v a t i ve G l y c o l i c A c i d (67% S o l n . ) Sodi urn H y d r o x i de (50% Sol n . )
0 .95 7 . 1 3 3 .00
Procedure :
m i x t u r e t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B and mix 5 m i n u t e s . Heat P a r t s A+B t o 50-55C and add P a r t C . M i x 3 m i n u t e s . Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C. M i x and h e a t P a r t D t o 75-80C. Add P a r t D t o p a r t s A+B+C w h i l e s t i r r i n g a t 1800 rpm f o r 10 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. Beg in c o o l i n g w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t E i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and s l o w t h e s t i r r e r t o 900 rpm. Check t h e pH and a d j u s t , i f necessary , t o 4 . 2 - 4 . 5 . Package a t
Dry b l e n d t h e Veegum P l u s and R h o d i g e l and s l o w l y add t h e
35-38C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R , T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 462
Creams 147
Skin Therapy Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Phosphol i p i d GLA Phosphol i p i d SV G l y c e r i n T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e Germaben I I E
Water
Phase 6: C e t y l A l c o h o l S t e a r e t h - 2 Monafax 160 Squal ane O c t y l S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Dow C o r n i n g F l u i d 200/350 c s .
AMP-95
% b y Weight
1 . 5 0 2 . 2 0 2 .00 0 . 5 0 0 .40 0.40
80.00
2 . 0 0 2 .00 1 - 0 0 0 .80 4 .00 2 . 4 0 0 . 8 0
P rocedure :
w i l l t h i c k e n beyond use.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P roduc t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n
Add Phase 6 t o Phase A v e r y s l o w l y ; keep v i s c o s i t y low o r i t
PF-0347 sugges ted by Mona I n d u s t r i e s
Cream, Type O/W, with Protectan*
a ) C u t i n a MD C u t i n a CP Eumulg in 61 Eumulg in 62 C e t i o l 6 Phenon i p
b ) Water , d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p Carbopol 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne G1 y c e r i n
% b y Weight 4 .00 4 .00 1 .oo 1 . o o 5 .00 0 .30
70.40 0 . 3 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 3 . 0 0
c ) P r o t e c t a n 10 .00
M a n u f a c t u r e :
s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o app rox . 30C. Add c ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, homogenize.
M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o app rox . 70C. B r i n g b ) t o app rox . 70C and
* P r o t e c t a n i s a Lac tococcus l a c t i s l y s a t e . H i g h a n t i o x i d a t i v e p o t e n t i a l .
SOURCE: Chemi sches L a b o r a t o r i um D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Formula
148 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ultra Skin Treatment Cream
Veegum U l t r a i s an i d e a l c a n d i d a t e f o r t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l - i z i n g t h i s a c i d i c o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n because i t y i e l d s a l o w pH when d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r . When used i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h Rhodi - g e l Xanthan Gum, s y n e r g i s t i c t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z a t i o n i s a c h i e v e d . A p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% G l y c o l i c A c i d i s added t o p r o v i d e i t s we l l - known s k i n r e j u v e n a t i n g f u n c t i o n .
I n q r e d i e n t : A : Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
D e i o n i z e d Water
W t .%* 1 . 4 3
63.51 R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 . 2 9
B: G l y c e r i n 4 . 7 6
C : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 0 .71
D: C e t y l A l c o h o l 2 . 8 5 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 4 .28 S t e a r i c A c i d 1 . 4 3 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 4 .28 M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) 4 .28 D ime th i cone (350 c s . ) 1 . 4 3
E : P r e s e r v a t i ve G l y c o l i c A c i d (67% S o l n . ) Sodi um H y d r o x i de (50% So l n . )
0 . 9 5 7 . 1 4 2 . 6 6
P rocedure :
t u r e t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 r p m . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B and m i x 5 m i n u t e s . Heat P a r t s A+B t o 50-55C and add P a r t C . M i x 3 m i n u t e s . Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C. M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C. S t i r a t 1800 r p m f o r 10 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 40C, add t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and s l o w t h e m i x e r t o 900 r p m . Check t h e pH and a d j u s t , i f necessa ry , t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 , Package a t 35-38C.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegurn F o r m u l a t i o n No. 463
Dry b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l . S l o w l y add t h e m i x -
Creams 149
W/O Basic Cream for Dry Skin, with Evening Primrose Oil
I n s r e d i e n t s : Wei s h t % A) M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 4 .00
I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5 . 0 0
B )
D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) S o f t i san Gel ( B i s-Di g l y c e r y l Pol y a c y l a d i pa te -2
(and) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (and) S t e a r a l k o n i um H e c t o r i t e (and ) P r o p y l e n e Carbona te )
W h i t e Beeswax Lunacera M ( M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax) M i n e r a l O i l Eveni ng P r i m r o s e O i 1
P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
Perfume O i l
6 . 0 0
3 .00 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
q . s . 6 5 . 0 0
Q . S .
P r e p a r a t i on :
h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The per fume o i l can be added below 30 degrees C . The e m u l s i o n must be s t i r r e d u n t i l c o o l .
F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . 2 L
(A) h e a t e d up t o c a . deg rees C . u n t i l homogeneous. (B) i s
Peeling Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A ) S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l Cocoate (and ) Hydrogenated
Wei a h t %
Coconut O i 1 (and ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) 1 0 . 0 0 I m w i t o r 900 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 10 .00 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 1 5 . 0 0 M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e /
D i c a p r a t e ) 3 . 0 0
M a r l i p a l 1618/25 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) 1 . 8 0 Dynacer i n 660 (01 e y l E r u c a t e ) 2 . 0 0
Cremophor A6 ( C e t e a r e t h - 6 (and ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . 2 0
B) Ampholy t JB 130/K (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5 . 0 0 A1 1 a n t o i n 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . Water up t o 100.00
C) F rag rance Almond Meal ( o r 1 . 5 % Sea Sand)
9 , s . 3 .00
P r e p a r a t i on :
same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . Almond Meal o r Sea Sand and f r a g r a n c e i s added a t about 35 degrees C .
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
(A) i s m e l t e d a t abou t 75 degrees C . (B) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e
Formul a t i on 1 . 1 S
150 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Cream with Almond Oil and Shea Butter
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % A) S o f t i s a n Gel ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 1
(and) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (and) S t e a r a l k o n i u m H e c t o r i t e (and) P r o p y l e n e Carbonate) 10.00
M i g l y o l 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 10.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 2 .00 I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5 .00 Almond O i l 2 .oo Shea B u t t e r 2 .00 Oxynex 2004 (BHT (and) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and)
C i t r i c A c i d (and) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ) 0 . 0 2 G1 y c e r y l 01 e a t e (and) A s c o r b y l Pal m i t a t e (and )
B) Magnesium S u l f a t e N i p a g i n M ( M e t h y l Paraben) N i p a s o l M ( P r o p y l Paraben) Phenoxyethanol Dei o n i zed Water
2.00 0 . 1 5 0 . 0 5 0 I 50
66.28
P r e p a r a t i o n : (A ) i s h e a t e d t o 75-80 degrees C . (B) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e
same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o t h e d e s i r e d t e m p e r a t u r e .
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 1.2M
Soft W/O Cream with Softisan 649
I n a r e d i e n t s : Weight% A ) I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l Succ i n a t e ) 5 .00
S o f t i s a n 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) 3 .00 A l u g e l DF 30 (Aluminum S t e a r a t e ) 0 . 7 5 M i n e r a l O i l 10.00 P e t r o l a t u m 10 .00
6) P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
9.5.. up t o 100 .00
Fragrance Be l 1 e f r e s h 0.30
P r e p a r a t i o n :
i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . Perfume i s added a t about 35 degrees C .
(A) i s mixed homogeneously and b r o u g h t t o 80 degrees C. (B)
F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . 2 N
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 151
W/O-Cream
Rec ipe : A H o s t a c e r i n WOL
Lunacera M M i n e r a l o i l , low v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e Squal ane Pant heno l
6 1,2-Propy lene g l y c o l Magnesi um s u l f a t e C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Hoechst P o t a s s i urn Sorba te Hoechst S o r b i c A c i d Water
C Fragrance
Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 80C. 2 Heat B t o ca . 80C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t ca . 35C add C t o 3 .
Formula A V I /2754
Chamomile Glycerin Cream
Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n CG
M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y C e t i o l SN I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e
WtOIo 6 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 5 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 4 .00 5 . 0 0 0 .50
4 .00 0 .70 0 . 1 0 0 .15 0 . 0 8
6 7 . 5 7
0 . 4 0
WtOIo 1 0 . 0 0
8 .00 4 .00 4 .00
B Carbopol 980 0 .30
C Aquamo l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Caust i c soda s o l u t i on ( 10%) E x t r a p o n chamomi 1 e spec i a1 G1 y c e r i n Water P r e s e r v a t i ve
0 . 1 0 0 . 2 5 1 . 2 0 0 .50
10 .00 61 - 2 5
q . s .
D F rag rance 0 .40
P rocedure : 1 M e l t A a t ca . 70C t h e n add B. 2 Heat C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 4 S t i r u n t i l c o o l . 5 A t 35C add D t o 4. 6 Homogenize i f necessa ry .
SOURCE: Hoechs t : Gu ide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r t h e Cosmetic I n d u s t r y
Formula A V I /6506
Section VI Hair Care Products
152
Hair Care Products 153
Acudyne 255 55% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray
F a s t - d r y i n g , e x t r e m e l y l o w - t a c k and e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n f o r m u l a .
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water
E thano l
DC-190 F l u i d AMP-95
% b y Weight 31 . 8 4 25,OO
0 . 5 6 0 . 1 0
8 . Acudyne 255 (41%) 12.50
C . Dymel A 30.00
P rocedure : P repare phase A . Then add phase €3 w i t h s t i r r i n g . M ix u n t i l
s o l u t i o n i s s l i g h t l y t u r b i d b u t a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d . Add phase C . The m i x t u r e w i l l i m m e d i a t e l y t u r n c l e a r .
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i t i c s : C loud p o i n t : <-22F Vapor P r e s s u r e : 33 p s i g a t 70F
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0371 sugges ted b y Rohm & Haas (PF-050) 87 p s i g a t 130F
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray, Low VOC
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . A l c o h o l , d e n a t u r e d
Gant r e z ES-225
8. AMP-95 Permethy l 101A Permet h y l 102A V i g i l a n AWS
% b y Weight 7 4 - 0 0
9 . 2 0
0 .40 5 . 1 5
1 0 . 0 0 1 . o o
C . F rag rance 0 . 2 5
P rocedure :
M i x u n t i l c l e a r s o l u t i o n d e v e l o p s . Add C as d e s i r e d . M ix A u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add B i n o r d e r shown.
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0372 sugges ted by P r e s p e r s e
SOURCE: Angus Chemi c a l Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
154 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Acudyne 255 55% VOC Extra Hold Pump Hair Spray
I n s r e d i e n t s : A . Water
E t h a n o l
DC 190 F l u i d AMP-95
% by Weight 27 .14 5 5 . 0 0
0 .76 0 . 1 0
B . Acudyne 255 (41%) 17 .00
P rocedure :
s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r . P repare phase A . Then add phase 8 w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : C loud p o i n t : -18F V i s c o s i t y (#1 @ 60 r p m ) : 1 0 . 0 cps
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0390 sugges ted by Rohm & Haas Co. (PF-056)
Acudyne 255 0% VOC Pump Hair Spray
I n q r e d i e n t s : Water AQ-55 AMP-95 C i t r o f 1 ex-2 Acudyne 255 (41%) P r e s e r v a t i v e
% b y Weinht 88.78
3 .20 0 .42 0 . 1 0 7 .50
9 , s .
Procedure : Heat 40 p a r t s w a t e r t o 9OC. Add phase 0 w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add
48 .8 p a r t s ambient t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r and a l l o w t o c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add rema inder o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r .
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : C loud p o i n t : - l O C V i s c o s i t y : 4 . 0 cps
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0391 sugges ted by Rohm & Haas Co. (PF-058)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t Fo rmu la ry
Hair Care Products 155
Aerosol Styling Spray
Formula ted t o g i v e a v e r y q u i c k d r y i n g s p r a y w h i c h g i v e s a f i r m b u t n a t u r a l h o l d . The f a s t d r y i n g f e a t u r e a l l o w s i n s t a n t s e t t i n g o f c u r l s . The spray a l s o a f f o r d s easy comb-out and washabi 1 i t y . I n g r e d i e n t s : V e r s a t y l - 4 2 Ami nomethy l Propano l P u r c e l 1 i n O i 1 2/066210 Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t Monamid 716 Fragrance Ethano l , SDA-40 P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46
P a r t s by Weight 4 .50 1 . 0 8 0 .10 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0 0 .10
49.02 45.00
P r e p a r a t i o n : Charge m i x i n g v e s s e l w i t h SDA-40. W h i l e m i x i n g , add amino-
methy l p r o p a n o l . S i f t V e r s a t y l - 4 2 i n t o sol u t i on w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . When s o l u t i o n i s comple te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . F i l t e r s o l u t i o n and f i l l a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s . Charge p r o p e l l a n t .
Can: C o n t i n e n t a l V a l v e : P r e c i s i o n , 0 . 0 1 8 f f stem (#04-1220) , Buna g a s k e t
(#05-0310, SS s p r i n g (#06-6010) , 0 .018" body x 0 .013" V . T . (#07-0131) , #12-7100 cup, #09-2010 d i p t u b e , #01-1836 a c t u a t o r .
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 6186-101
Aqueous Conditioning and Styling Mousse
T h i s c o n d i t i o n i n g mousse p r o v i d e s improved g l o s s and manage- a b i 1 i t y a1 l o w i ng f o r e a s i e r s t y 1 i ng.
I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) C e l q u a t L-200
P a r t s by Weight 1 . o o
Dei o n i zed Water 81 - 9 0 B ) C r o t e i n SPO 0 .20
C r o t e i n Q 0 . 2 0 Ethoquad 0/12 1 .oo DC- 190 0 . 2 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 .50 P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s . F ragrance q . s .
C) P r o p e l l a n t A-46 15 .00 V a l v e S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n Foam V a l v e
Stem: 2 x 0 .020" Body: I n v e r t e d w i t h T a i l p i e c e A c t u a t o r : Mars I n v e r t e d Spout
P r e p a r a t i o n :
and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge ( C ) .
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Prepare s o l u t i o n o f ( A ) . Add (6). When homogenous, f i l t e r
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 4497-113
156 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hairspray
Ingredi ents: % by Wei ghtLovocryl 47 5.00AMP-95 1.01Burst, RSD-10 0.50Deioni zed Water 60.49Dimethyl ether 33.00Preservative q.s.
Cloud Point: -15C
Procedure:Disperse Burst in water. Dissolve AMP-95 in the solution.
When complete, slowly sift in Lovocryl 47 while maintaininggood agitation. Mix until homogeneous. Filter and f i l l . Chargewi th propel 1 ant.
Valve: Seaquist Valve NS-34Stem: 0.013"Gasket: Butyl, 0.042" Ink. Code: 501Spring: 0.020" SSBody: Capi11aryCup: Regular, Epoxy Top, Laminate Bottom,
Dimpled, Code: 1610Vapor Tap: 0.013"Dip Tube: 0.040"Actuator: Excel-200 Misty 0.016" Misty
Formulation PF-0351 suggested by National Starch & ChemicalCorp. (7502:956)
Hair Spritz
Ijigredi ents : % by Wei ghtCrovol M40~ 0.50AMP-95 0.16Ethanol DEB100 to 100.00Gantrez ES425 8.00Escalol 507 1.OODeionized water 11.36d-Panthenol 0.10Perfume q.s.Preservati ves q.s.Color q.s.
Procedure:Dissolve AMP in the alcohol. Add Gantrez ES resin with mixing.
Mix in the Escalol and then add the Crovol. Pre-mix the waterand panthenol, and then add the alcohol. Mix until clear.
Formulation PF-0359E suggested by Croda, UK
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Product Formulary
Hair Care Products 157
Alcohol-Free Firm Holding Mousse
T h i s a l c o h o l - f r e e , f i r m h o l d i n g mousse g i v e s v e r y good w e t / d r y c o m b a b i l i t y , e x c e l l e n t h o l d , and a l s o c o n d i t i o n s t h e h a i r .
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Amphomer
L o v o c r y l - 4 7
T r i t o n X-100 DC-929 S i 1 i cone P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Panthenol Var i on CADG- LS D o w i c i l 200 D e i o n i z e d Water
AMP-95
8 . N a t r o s o l 250 HHX Dei o n i zed Water
% b v We igh t 2 . 6 3 1 .13 0 . 6 4 0 . 2 0 0 . 6 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0 0 .20 0 . 1 0
46.90
0 . 3 0 37.00
C . P r o p e l l a n t A-46 10.00
P rocedure : P repare p o r t i o n s ( A ) and ( B ) . When s o l u t i o n s a r e comp le te ,
add ( A ) t o ( B ) and m ix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l conc- e n t r a t e . Emplace V a l v e . Charge p r o p e l l a n t ( C ) .
Corp. (8384-49-4) F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0354 sugges ted b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical
Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . L o v o c r y l 47
AMP-95 DC-929 S i 1 i cone T r i t o n X-100 V a r i on CADG-LS F rag rance D o w i c i l 200 D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
6. N a t r o s o l 250 HHR D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
% b y Weight 2 .50 0 .51 0 . 4 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0
0.10 48.79
0 .30 37.00
9.5.
C. P r o D e l l a n t A-46 1 0 . 0 0
P rocedure : P repare p o r t i o n s ( A ) and ( B ) s e p a r a t e l y . When s o l u t i o n s a r e
comp le te , add ( A ) t o ( B ) and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and fill c o n c e n t r a t e . CHarge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t ( C ) .
Corp. (7502:105A)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r p . : Produc t F o r m u l a r y
Formul a t i on PF-0355 sugges ted b y Na t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemi c a l
158 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol-Free Non-Aerosol Spritz
T h i s l o w VOC f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s s p r a y a b i l i t y , f i r m h o l d , and good h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Emu ls ion 25-3800 (50% a c t i v e )
Monawet MO-75E D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
AMP-95
% by Weight 14 .00
1 . o o 0 . 3 0
84.70
P rocedure :
w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e .
V a l v i ng and A c t u a t o r :
Combine w a t e r , MO-75E and AMP. Nex t , add po lymer emu ls ion
Pump Type: E u r o M i s t , 190 mcl L i n e r : PE/Buty l C1 o s u r e : 24-410, W h i t e S p r i n g : 302 SS, 1 l b 0 o z . Body : 190 m c l o u t p u t D i p Tube: 7 ” , 0 .060” I D I n s e r t : ,010” x , 0 1 0 ” deep Seal V a l v e : S tandard Hood : SBS, C l e a r T u r r e t : 24 mm
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0402 sugges ted by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical CO. (8757-120-2)
Super Hold Pump Spray
I n a r e d i e n t s : % b y Weight A . SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f 84 .21
D e i o n i z e d w a t e r 8 . 1 2 AMP-95 1 . 4 7 Dow C o r n i n g 02-5220 P o l y e t h e r 0 . 1 0 F r a g r a n c e (Peach F l o r a l 92F/3235) 0 .10
B. Luv imer 100 P 6 . 0 0
P rocedure :
each a d d i t i o n . Combine phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g a f t e r
S p r i n k l e B i n t o A w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0398 sugges ted b y BASF (DKL84/3)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Go.: P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products 159
Alcohol-Free Ringing Gel with Hold
Ingredients: Part A: Dei oni zed Water Propylene Glycol AMP-Regul ar Amphome r Part B: Lt. Mineral Oil Volpo 5 Crodafos N10 Neutral Crodafos N3 Neutral Part C: Germaben I 1
Parts by Weiaht
57.59 12.00 0.41 3.00
10.00 9 .oo 4.00 3.00
1 . o o
Preparat i on : Part A: Combine the water, AMP, and propylene glycol. While
maintaining good agitation, slowly sift in Amphomer. Slowly heat Part A to 70C.
Part 6: Combine ingredients o f Part B and heat to 80C. Add Part B to Part A with mixing and start to cool. Add Part C when the temperature drops to approximately 55C. Continue mi xi ng for fi ve mi nutes o r unti 1 homogeneous. Cool to room temperature.
Formul a No. 8802 : 766
Cream Hair Conditioner
This cream hair conditioner has excellent wet combability, adds body to the hair, and has good hold.
Inaredi ents: A) Cel quat L-200
Triethanolamine Propylene G1 ycol D i sti 1 1 ed Water Preservative
B) Acetulan Amerchol L-101 Stearic Acid XXX Emerest 2407 Mineral Oil Fragrance
Parts by Weight 1 . o o 0.50 2.25
76.25 9,s.
0.50 2.50 1.25 1 . oo
14.75 9,s.
Preparat i on : Heat A and 6 separately to BOC. While mixing, add 6 to A.
Continue mixing while cooling to 25-3OC. Add C. Adjust pH to 7 . 5 if necessary. M i x until uniform.
SOURCE: National Starch and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formulations
Formula No. 3474-28
160 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse
T h i s a l c o h o l - f r e e s t y l i n g mousse has good w e t / d r y c o m b a b i l i t y , good s u b j e c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d .
- I n g r e d i e n t s : A . L o v o c r y l 47
AMP-95 DC-929 S i 1 i cone T r i t o n X - 1 0 0 d l -Pan theno l Neo H e l i o p a n Hydro C r o t e i n 0 D o w i c i l 200 Dei o n i zed w a t e r
B . N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Dei o n i zed w a t e r
C . P r o p e l l a n t A - 4 6
% b y Weigh t 3 . 0 0 0 . 6 3 0 . 3 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0
40 .01 0 . 4 0
44 .86 1 0 . 0 0
P rocedure : P repare p a r t A b y d i s s o l v i n g AMP-95 i n w a t e r . W h i l e main-
t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n t h e L o v o c r y l - 4 7 . When s o l u t i o n i s comp le te , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . P repare p a r t B . When s o l u t i o n s a r e comp le te , add A t o B and m ix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge cans w i t h p r o p e l 1 a n t C I
Corp . ( 7 8 7 9 : H l O l ) Formul a t i on PF-0356 suggested by Nat i o n a l S t a r c h & Cherni c a l
Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse
I n g r e d i e n t s : A_ Amphomer
AMP-95 DC-929 S i 1 i cone T r i t o n X - 1 0 0 V a r i o n CADG F rag rance D o w i c i l 200 D e i o n i z e d w a t e r DC- 190
B . N a t r o s o l 250 H H R D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
C . Prope l l a n t A-46
% b y Weigh t 3 .00 0 . 5 2 0 . 4 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0 48 .08
0 . 4 0 0 . 3 0
36 .80 1 0 . 0 0
q . s .
Procedure :
A t o B and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l l a n t C .
Formul a t i on PF-0357 suggested b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemi c a l Corp . (7974:32-3)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Corp , : P roduc t Fo rmu la ry
P repare p o r t i o n s A and B . When s o l u t i o n s a r e comple te , add
Hair Care Products 161
Brush-On Hair Color
T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s d r a m a t i c s t r e a k s and h i g h l i g h t s y e t r i nses o u t e a s i 1 y .
A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (5% A q . S o l n . ) B: H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e (5% A q . S o l n . ) ( K l u c e l G ) C : D e i o n i z e d Water
PVP ( L u v i s k o l K30) Me thy lpa raben
D : C e t y l A l c o h o l C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 (Cremophor A25) P r o p y l p a r a b e n
E : D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l
F : M i c a (and ) I r o n Ox ides ( C o l o r o n a Copper) G: DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( G l y d a n t )
__ W t % 10.00 15.00 24.00
2 . 0 0 0 . 2 0 3 . 6 0 2 . 4 0 0 . 1 0
17 .34 5 .00
20 I O 0 0 .36
P rocedure :
s t i r r i n g . Combine D. Heat t o 75C s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add D t o C w i t h c o u n t e r r o t a t i o n a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 40C. S e p a r a t e l y , add B t o A f o l l o w e d b y E , s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Add combined A,B,E t o C+D. Homogenize a t h i g h speed f o r 5 m i n u t e s w i t h a S i l v e r s o n - t y p e homogenizer . Add F and G, s t i r r i n g w i t h c o u n t e r r o t a t i o n a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 30C. Package i n mascara v i a1 s w i t h b r u s h app l i c a t o r .
P repare A and B i n advance. Combine C and h e a t t o 75C w i t h
Formula f r o m Rona
Creme-in Hair Cleanser
Ammoni u m L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Carson01 ALS) Cocoamidopropyl B e t a i ne Laurami de DEA (Carsami de SAL-7) PPG-5-Ceteth 10 Phosphate ( C r o d a f o s SG) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and ) C e t e a r e t h 20 (Cosmowax K ) Sucrose Cocoate ( C r o d e s t a SL-40) S t e a r t r i m o n i u m H y d r o x y e t h y l H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n
Veegum K , Magnesi u m A 1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e Water Dye, f r a g r a n c e
( C r o t e i n Q )
__ W t % 15 .00 10.00 2 .oo 2 . 0 0 2 . 5 0
12 .00
3 .00 0 . 4 5
53.05 q . s .
P rocedure :
a u n i f o r m s l u r r y i s a c h i e v e d . D i s s o l v e t h e C r o d e s t a i n t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r , t h e n d i s s o l v e t h e C r o t e i n Q . Heat o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e and f i l l o f f .
D i s p e r s e t h e Veegum K i n h a l f t h e w a t e r and h e a t t o 85C u n t i l
Formula f r o m Croda
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co. , Inc.: Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s
I62 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
California Dream Hairspray - 55% VOC - 5% Solids
I n n r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f D-Panthenol Cremophor A 25 Dow C o r n i n g 193 P o l y e t h e r
Luv imer Low VOC AMP-95
Phase B: F rag rance ( V i b r a n t Spash 94F/2203)
Phase C: Dymel A
P rocedure : Combine Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w r i t t e n o r d e r . Add B t o A and m i x w e l l . F i 11 i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .
% b v Weiaht
27.83 15.80
0 . 2 0 0 . 2 5 0 .50 1 . 2 2
14.00
Packag ing : W h i t e Coated Aluminum Can ( P e e r l e s s Tube C o r p . ) Aquasol V a l v e & Concave Kosmos A c t u a t o r ( P r e c i s Overcap ( B e r r y P l a s t i c s )
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0349 sugges ted b y BASF Corp. (SG
Non-Alcohol Hairspray
I n g r e d i e n t s : Amp homer
Dei o n i zed Water Sodi um Benzoate Ammoni urn h y d r o x i de F rag rance G1 y c e r i ne DC-190 S i l i c o n e D i m e t h y l E t h e r
AMP-95
0 . 2 0
40 .00
on V a l v e Corp )
096/4)
% by Weiaht 5 .00 0 . 8 9
61 - 6 6 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5
0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0
32 .00
q . S .
Procedure : D i s s o l v e AMP-95, Sodium Benzoate and Ammonium H y d r o x i d e i n
t h e w a t e r . S l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . When s o l u t i o n i s comp le te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d - i e n t s u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Add p r o p e l 1 a n t .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0350 sugges ted by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Corp. (6472 :93 )
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t Fo rmu la ry
Hair Care Products 163
Clear Hair Rinse Formulation
N a t r o s o l v i s c o s i f i e s t h i s c r y s t a l - c l e a r h a i r r i n s e , wh ich f o r m u l a s made w i t h o u t N a t r o s o l promotes m a n a g e a b i l i t y . C o n t r o
have v i s c o s i t i e s o f l e s s t h a n
I n g r e d i e n t s : N a t r o s o l 250HHR CS Water Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i d e (30% Laurami ne o x i d e (30%) Cet r i mon i urn c h 1 o r i de ( 25%) Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
P rocedure :
00 c p s .
Wei qht% 1 . 0
73 .5 5 . 1
1 0 . 2 1 0 . 2
q . s . t o 100 .0
1 . D i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l i n wa te r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y d i s s o l v e d .
2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g we1 1 between a d d i t i o n s . ( B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o s i t y a t 30 rpm, 25C=3,360 cps [mPas])
Pearlescent Cream Rinse Formulation
N a t r o s o l v i s c o s i f i e s t h i s p r o d u c t and p r e v e n t s phase s e p a r a t i o n
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : N a t r o s o l 250HHR CS Water
Phase B : S t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e (25%) P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l G l y c o l s t e a r a t e 01 e th -20 Pol y q u a t e r n i um-1 7 (62%)
Wei q h t %
1 . 3 8 2 . 3
1 0 . 1 1 . 5 1 . 5 1 . 5 1 . 8
Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o 100.0
P rocedure : 1 . D i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l i n wa te r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l
2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m ix t h e s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e and
3 . Add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t e d i n Phase B, i n t h e o r d e r
f u l l y d i s s o l v e d .
p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.
l i s t e d , t o t h e m i x t u r e o f s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e and p r o p y l - ene g l y c o l . M i x w e l l between each a d d i t i o n .
we1 1 . Cool t o 35C.
( B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o s i t y a t 30 rpm, 25C = 8,600 cps [mPas
4 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t m i x t u r e t o t h e N a t r o s o l s o l u t i o n . M
5 . Add pe r fume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
X
SOURCE: Aqualon D i v i s i o n : H a i r C o n d i t i o n i n g P r o d u c t s w i t h Nat r o s o l H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l ose
164 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Concentrated Hair Repairwith UV Protection
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : D i meth i cone (50-60,000 c s ) Isohexadecane C y c l omet h i cone Cyc lometh icone and D i m e t h i c o n o l and D imeth icone
( A b i l OSW 12) Dimeth icone/Sodium PG-Propyl D i m e t h i c o n e T h i o s u l f a t e
Copolymer ( A b i l S 201) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20) O c t y l Methoxyc i nnamate P r o p y l p a r a b e n
Phase 0: Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) E t h a n o l Denatured M e t h y l G luce th-20
Procedure :
Weight%
1 5 . 0 0 29.65 15 .00
25.00
1 . o o 5.00 1 . o o 0 .10
0 . 7 5 4 .00 3 .50
1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r i n o r d e r shown. M i x
2 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 6 t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 3 . Add B t o A . M i x w e l l . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t .
u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d .
Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight%
Cyc lometh icone ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) D imeth icone ( A b i 1 OSW-12)
Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Hexy l ene G1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i ves P o l y a c r y l a m i d e ( a n d ) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n (and) L a u r e t h
27.27 4.55
40 .93 4.55
20.45
7 2 .25 Q . S .
Procedure :
When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and i r i d e s c e n t .
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Co. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .
Hair Care Products 165
Conditioner for Dry Brittle Hair
I n g r e d i e n t : Dei o n i zed Water Guar Hyd. P r o p y l Tr imonium C h l o r i d e Quatern ium-76 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t . G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e C e t y l A l c o h o l M y r j 52s (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) O i l s o f A loha Kukui Nut O i l P r e s e r v a t i v e
Phase : A A A B B B B C
WtO/o 88.20
0 . 8 0 6 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 .50 1.50 1 . o o
QS
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure : Phase A : D i s p e r s e Guar i n w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 65C. Phase 6: Combine f a t t y components and add t o w a t e r phase. Cool t o
Phase C : Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . 40C.
pH: 5 . 0
The p r i m a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e Guar hydroxy p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e and t h e Quatern ium-76 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n . E m u l s i f i e r i s t h e M y r j 52s. Kukui Nut O i l (Macadamia Nut c o u l d be used) p r o v i d e s a g l o s s i n g agent f o r d r y h a i r and r e p l a c e s t h e n a t u r a l o i l s l o s t i n shampooing.
SOURCE: O i 1s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Hair Styling Gel
- A : D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 940 - B: Dei o n i zed Water T r i e thano lami ne (99%) L : - V i n y l c a p r o l actam/PVP/Di methy l ami n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l a t e
- D : S i l i c o n e Quatern ium-5 ( P e c o s i l SMQ-40) - E : Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e
Procedure :
Copolymer
Wt% 8 5 . 9 5
1 . o o
3.00 1 .oo
7 .50
1 . 5 0
0 . 0 5
D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n Phase A w a t e r . When a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d , add Phase B t o Phase A . S l o w l y sweep i n Phase C, Phase D and Phase E u n t i l a u n i f o r m g e l i s o b t a i n e d .
SOURCE : Phoeni x Chemi c a l , I n c . : Suggested Formul a t i on
166 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Perm
Formula: O i l Phase: C rodaco l C-95 Croda fos N l O N Vo lpo s-2 C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) S t e a r i c Ac id XXX Water Phase: Vo lpo s-10 Croquat M P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l U . S . P . Hampol OL C r y s t a l s (Lowenste i n ) Germaben I 1 Water, D e i o n i z e d Ammoni um T h i o g l y c o l a t e (60%) Ammoni um H y d r o x i de (29%)
% by Weight
2 .00 1 .50 0 .50
13.00 1 1 - 5 0 8 . 0 0
2 . 5 0 1 .oo 2 . 0 0 0 . 7 5 1 . o o
42.62 9 . 0 0 4 . 6 3
P rocedure :
t o o i l s under good a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t ammonium t h i o g l y c o l a t e w i t h ammonium h y d r o x i d e , c o o l e m u l s i o n t o 45C t h e n add t o ammonium t h i o g l y c o l a t e s o l u t i o n . F i l l o f f .
Heat o i l phase t o 80C; h e a t w a t e r phase t o 80-85C. Add w a t e r
Scalp and Hair Conditioner
Formula: Emerest 1723 Emerest 2316 W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) Emsorb 2500 Emerwax 1266 Emerest 2486 F rag rance
% by Wei g h t 20 .5 1 4 . 5 4 7 . 0
6 . 5 1 0 . 5
1 . o q . s .
P rocedure :
Cool t o 65C w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Perfume and package.
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t t o 85-9OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Hair Care Products 167
Conditioning Styling Mousse
T h i s mousse has e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s and s u p e r i o r wet combing w i t h a n a t u r a l f e e l .
I n g r ed i e n t s : Cel q u a t L-200 PEG-36 C a s t o r O i l Col 1 ami no Compl ex 40 Arquad T-50 P r e s e r v a t i ve F rag rance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46
.40
P a r t s b y Wei Q h t 1 . o o 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0
q . s q . s
15 .00 73 .70 10 .00
P rocedure : S l o w l y s i f t C e l q u a t L-200 i n t o d i s t i l l e d w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g .
When s o l u t i o n i s comp le te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n concen- t r a t e . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
I n s t r u c t i o n s f o r Use:
p r e s s b u t t o n t o d i s p e n s e e g g - s i z e d amount o f foam i n t o pa lm o f hand. A d j u s t amount depending on h a i r l e n g t h and amount o f c o n t r o l d e s i r e d . Massage e v e n l y t h r o u g h h a i r . Do n o t r i n s e . S t y l e h a i r as d e s i r e d .
Shampoo, r i n s e , and t o w e l d r y h a i r . Shake can w e l l , i n v e r t and
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 5231 -32
Thermal Mousse
T h i s a l c o h o l - f r e e c o n d i t i o n i n g mousse has s u p e r i o r wet combing, adds body t o h a i r , and has good f i x a t i v e p r o p e r t i e s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) Cel q u a t L-200
DC 929 S i l i c o n e T r i t o n X-100 d l Panthenol C r o t e i n Q Germaben I 1 Dei o n i zed Water
E) P r o p e l l a n t A-46
P a r t s b y Weight 3 . 0 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0 1 . 0 0
85 .10 10.00
P r e p a r a t i o n : D i s s o l v e t h e C e l q u a t L-200 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . When s o l u t i o n
i s comp le te , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homog- eneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge cans w i t h p r o p e l l a n t
Formul a t i on No. 7879 : H102B
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
168 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream ConditionerI n q r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % Phase A : Water 8 5 . 4 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 3 0 Stearami d o p r o p y l D i me thy l ami ne (Tego Amid S 18) 1 . 5 0 C i t r i c A c i d Monohydrate 0 . 6 0 M e t h y l Paraben 0 .20 M i n e r a l O i l 1 . 2 5 Cyc lometh i cone 3 .50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S.E. ( T e g i n ) 3 .00 C e t e t h - 2 1 . 5 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l 0 . 5 0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 0 . 3 5 Phase B : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1 . o o Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3270) 0 . 2 5 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) 0 . 5 0 Phase C: P r o p y l Paraben 0 . 1 0 Perfume Q . S . C o l o r Q.S. P rocedure : 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r t o 70-80C. 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n descend ing o r d e r . M i x . 3 . Beg in ambient c o o l i n g o f b a t c h . Add p re -m ixed m a t e r i a l s
4 . Add m a t e r i a l o f Phase C a t 40C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Dispense o f Phase B t o r e a c t o r . Homogenize.
a t 35C.
Conditioning Rinse(Cold Process)
I n n r e d i e n t s : Weight% Phase A : G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (and ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 100) 3 . 0 Q u a t e r n i urn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) 0 . 4 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i ne F ) 2 . 5 F rag rance Q.S. Water 40 .9 G1 y c e r i n 1 . 5 Phase B :
H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l ose 1 . 5 Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e 0 . 2 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. Phase C : C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 4 . 0 P rocedure : 1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A, 2 . Add t h e w a t e r o f Phase B
t o a t a n k . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . M ix u n t i l c l e a r . D i s p e r s e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e and Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i r n o n i u m C h l o r i d e . M i x u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d and v i s c o s i t y i n c r e a s e s .
Water 5 0 . 0
3 . Add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x . 4 . A d j u s t p H t o 4 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Corp , : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Hair Care Products 169
Cream Curl Activator
Formul a : A: D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxyp ropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e Pantheno l Hydro l yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n Qua te rn i um-1 5 B: Macol CPS S o l u l a n 16 B lando l M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Masi l 656 F l u i d M a s i l SF-V F l u i d M a s i l 280 C : C i t r i c A c i d 50% F rag rance
_- % b y Weight.
8 0 . 4 3 0 . 2 0 0 . 0 2 1 . o o 1 . o o 0 . 3 0
6 . 0 0 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
0 . 0 5 q . s .
P rocedure : D i spe rse h y d r o x y p r o p y l me thy l c e l l u l ose i n t h e w a t e r , add TEA
t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 m i n s . add r e m a i n i n g A i n g r e d i - e n t s , h e a t to 55C and s t i r . S e p a r a t e l y b l e n d B and h e a t t o 55C. Add B t o A , m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and add f r a g r a n c e .
Hair Pomade
__.___ Formula : Wh i te P r o t o p e t 1s ( W i t c o ) 61 ando l M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Oh1 an H y d r o x y l a t e d Lano l i n Kessco PEG 400 D i l a u r a t e P a r a f f i n Wax I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Perfume and C o l o r
.-bYA!!!ei&T 2 8 . 0 3 0 . 0 2 7 . 0
8 . 0 6 . 0 1 . o q * s
P rocedure :
u n i f o r m and c l e a r , Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 40C.
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 80C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l
170 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Rinse Conditioner
T h i s cream r i n s e f o r m u l a f e a t u r e s Crodafos CES, t o g e t h e r w i t h a c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n e r , I n c r o q u a t BES-35s . By i t s a b i l i t y t o promote f a s t r e l e a s e o f o i l s and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s t o t h e h a i r and i t s c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s , Crodafos CES enab les t h i s cream r i n s e t o p r o v i d e enhanced c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . The i n c r e a s e d sheen, s i l k i e r , s o f t e r f e e l , and improved t e x t u r e t h e h a i r a c q u i r e s i s t h e r e s u l t o f t h e q u i c k d e l i v e r y o f t h e Crodamol e s t e r s , Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l and I n c r o - q u a t 8ES-35S by Crodafos CES. Because Crodafos CES a l s o improves i t s a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s , t h e p r o d u c t r i n s e s o u t e x t r e m e l y e a s i l y w i t h o u t i n c i d e n c e o f d r a g o r a waxy d e p o s i t .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 5 P a r t A : Crodafos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 6.0 I n c r o q u a t BES-35s (Behenamidopropylethyldimonium E t h o -
s u l f a t e (and) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Crodaco l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e ) Crodamol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e )
P a r t B : Dei o n i zed Water TEA 99% P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben
pH=5.5+-0.5 Viscosity=16,000cps+-lO%, ( S p i n d l e TD @ 10RPM @ 25C)
1 . 5 1 . 5 2 . 0 2 . 0 2 .0
83.65 0 .35
1 . o
Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C.
N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n HP-180
Hair Cure Products 171
Cream Rinse Conditioner
T h i s cream r i n s e f o r m u l a f e a t u r e s Crodafos CES, t o g e t h e r w i t h a c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n e r , I n c r o q u a t CTC-30. By i t s a b i l i t y t o promote f a s t r e l e a s e o f o i l s and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s t o t h e h a i r and i t s c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s , Crodafos CES enab les t h i s cream r i n s e t o p r o v i d e enhanced c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . The i n c r e a s e d sheen, s i l k i e r , s o f t e r f e e l , and improved t e x t u r e t h e h a i r a c q u i r e s i s t h e r e s u l t o f t h e q u i c k d e l i v e r y o f t h e Crodamol e s t e r s , Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l and I n c r o q u a t CTC-30 by Crodafos CES. Because Crodafos CES a l s o improves i t s a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s , t h e p r o d u c t r i n s e s o u t e x t r e m e l y e a s i l y w i t h o u t i n c i d e n c e o f d r a g o r a waxy d e p o s i t .
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Crodafos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) Crodacol CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i 1 Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e ) Crodamol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e )
P a r t 9: Dei o n i zed Water I n c r o q u a t CTC-30 (Cet r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) TEA 99%
P a r t C : Propy lene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and ) M e t h y l
Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben
pH=5.5+-0.5 Viscosity=18,500cps+-lO% ( S p i n d l e TD @ 10 RPM @ 25C)
Procedure :
Wt%
6.0 1.5 2 . 0 2.0 2 . 0
83.65 1 . 5 0.35
1 . o
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C whi 1 e m i x i ng and c o o l t o des i r e d f i 1 1 t e m p e r a t u r e .
N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n HP-181
172 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Rinse Conditioner
T h i s cream r i n s e f o r m u l a f e a t u r e s Croda fos CES, a cond t i o n i n g and e m u l s i f y i n g system f r o m Croda, t o g e t h e r w i t h a c a t i o n c c o n d i t i o n e r , I n c r o q u a t CTC-30. By i t s a b i l i t y t o promote a s t r e l e a s e o f o i l s and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s t o t h e h a i r and i t s c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s , C roda fos CES e n a b l e s t h i s cream r i n s e t o p r o v i d e enhanced c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . I n c r e a s e d sheen, s i l k i e r , s o f t e r f e e l , and improved t e x t u r e . The p r o d u c t r i n s e s o u t e x t r e m e l y e a s i l y w i t h o u t i n c i d e n c e o f d r a g o r a waxy d e p o s i t .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei n h t % P a r t A : Croda fos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 6 . 0 Crodaco l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1.5 Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i 1 (Wheat Germ O i 1 ) 2 . 0 Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . 0 Crodamol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e ) 2 . 0
P a r t 0 : Dei o n i zed Water I n c r o q u a t CTC-30 (Ce t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) TEA 99%
83.65 1.50 0.35
P a r t C : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben 1 . oo pH=5.5+-0.5 Viscosity=18,500cps+-lO% ( S p i n d l e TD @ 1 0 RPM (3 25C)
P rocedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 6 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C w h i l e m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C
N .A .T .C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n HP-181
Hair Care Products 173
Creme Rinse Conditioner for Color-Treated and Permed Hair(Formula 89-1202)
T h i s s p e c i a l l y f o r m u l a t e d c o n d i t i o n e r g e n t l y c o n d i t i o n s t h e h a i r o n l y where i t i s needed and h e l p s p r o t e c t and r e s t o r e damaged, o r c h e m i c a l l y t r e a t e d h a i r .
% by Weight Water 9 1 . 5 M i r a c a r e CT-100 3 . 5 C e t y l A l c o h o l , N.F. 1 . 5 DL-Panthenol (Roche) 0 . 5 Hydro1 yzed Ani mal P r o t e i n (Hormel P e p t e i n 2000) 3 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d Q . S . t o pH 4 - 4 . 5
B1 end i ng P rocedure : 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 75C. 2 . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r
3 . A d j u s t pH o f system t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , as needed. 4 . Cool t o 40-45C and add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e ( s ) and
l i s t e d .
p r e s e r v a t i v e .
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance (3 25C: V iscous , opaque l i q u i d
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 pH: 8 . 5 - 1 0 . 0
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n f o r Pe rsona l Care
I n g r e d i e n t s : ( A ) : Water D.I.
C e l q u s t H-100
(6): Polawax A-31 J o j o b a O i l PVP (K-30)
( C ) : SDA-40B (Reg) G1 y d a n t Perfume
Jojoba Mousse
% by Weight 8 0 . 0
0 . 5
7 . 5 1 . o 1 . 5
1 5 . 2 0 . 2 0 . 1
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : ( 1 ) S t i r A t i l l c l e a r s o l u t i o n . ( 2 ) Add B and h e a t and s t i r t i l l d i s s o l v e d . ( 3 ) Cool and add C pH-4 Aeroso l F i l l : 85% o f above c o n c e n t r a t e / l 5 % o f A-46 P r o p e l l e n t S u p p l i e r s :
Cans - L i n e d P e e r l e s s Mousse c o n t a i n e r s Va lves - P r e c i s i o n Value Mousse v a l v e s and s p o u t s
OSURCE: F rank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
174 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Detangling Creme Rinse
N-Hance 3000 c a t i o n i c guar p r o v i d e s wet and d r y c o m b a b i l i t y t o t h i s f l o w a b l e , opaque, a f te r - shampoo r i n s e f o r h a i r d e t a n g l i n g and c o n d i t i o n i ng . T h i s p r o d u c t w i 11 a1 so i ncrease h a i r s o f t n e s s and reduce f l y - a w a y . The c y c l o m e t h i c o n e c o n t r i b u t e s g l o s s and adds p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t damage f r o m h e a t s t y l i n g . W i t h N-Hance, t h e v i s c o s i t y i s 2,000 cps and t h e pH=5 .2 . W i t h o u t N-Hance, t h e f o r m u l a t i o n i s w a t e r - t h i n and e x p e r i e n c e s phase s e p a r a t i o n .
I n s r e d i e n t : Aqueous Phase:
D i s t i l l e d w a t e r N-Hance 3000 c a t i o n i c guar Ce t r imon ium c h l o r i d e (25% a c t i v e ) C i t r i c a c i d (50% s o l u t i o n )
O i l Phase: C e t y l a l c o h o l Cyc l ometh i cone Stearami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami ne G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e P o l y s o r b a t e 80 P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and)
me thy lpa raben (and ) p r o p y l p a r a b e n
Wt%
9 , s . t o 100.00 1 . o o 4 . 0 0 0 . 3 5
1 .50 1 . 5 0 0 . 7 0 0 . 6 0 0 . 4 0
0 . 7 5
P rocedure : 1 . D i s p e r s e N-Hance 3000 c a t i o n i c gua r by a d d i n g i t t o t h e
v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . Add t h e c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n , wh ich promotes h y d r a t i o n o f t h e N-Hance and n e u t r a l i z e s t h e s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i n e . As e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e i s needed t o f o r m t h e emu ls ion , s t a r t h e a t i n g t o 65C. M ix u n t i l t h e po lymer i s f u l l y d i s s o l v e d .
2 . Add t h e c e t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e and m i x w e l l . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine t h e o i l - p h a s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat
4 . Add t h e aqueous-phase i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e o i l - p h a s e i n g r e d -
5 . When a t 40C o r be low, add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: Aqualon D i v i s i o n : N-Hance 3000 C a t i o n i c Guar : F o r m u l a t i o n
t o 65C.
i e n t s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Tu rn o f f h e a t b u t c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .
Hair Care Products 175
Easy Spreading Mousse
T h i s mousse c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t t o p l a s t i c i z e t h e Gan t rez r e s i n and t o enhance t h e s p r e a d a b i l i t y o f t h e r e s i n on t h e h a i r . Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t a l s o a s s i s t s i n foam b u i l d i n g and foam s t a b i l i t y .
I n a r e d i e n t s : Dow C o r n i n g 193 Gan t rez ES-225
Water SD A l c o h o l 40 P rope l 1 a n t A-46
AMP-95
% b v Weight 0 .50 5 . 0 0 0 .20
74.30 1 0 . 0 0 10 .00
P rocedure :
C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t t o t h e w a t e r . S t i r t h e w a t e r m i x t u r e i n t o t h e e t h a n o l m i x t u r e . Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f d e s i r e d . Ae roso l F i l l i n g :
hyd roca rbon p r o p e l l a n t (10% b y w e i g h t ) . S t a b i 1 i t y :
Add t h e AMP-95 t o t h e e t h a n o l . S t i r i n t h e G a n t r e z . Add Dow
Load t h e c o n c e n t r a t e (90% b y w e i g h t ) and f i l l w i t h A-46
The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n has n o t been assessed. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0364 suggested b y Dow C o r n i n g Corp. (E2-5284)
Gantrez Hair Spray with Cyclomethicone
T h i s h a i r s p r a y c o n t a i n s s i l i c o n e c y c l i c s , wh ich p l a s t i c i z e t h e r e s i n . The c y c l i c s g i v e improved c u r l r e t e n t i o n when compared w i t h t h e same f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h o u t c y c l i c s . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n shows how s i l i c o n e c y c l i c s can be used i n Gantrez-based h a i r s p r a y s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Dow C o r n i n g 345 F l u i d Gan t rez ES-425 AMP-Regul a r SD A l c o h o l 40 P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46
% b y W e i g h t 1 .oo 7 . 6 0 0 . 1 6
71 .24 2 0 . 0 0
P rocedure : Weigh o u t t h e a l c o h o l and d i s s o l v e t h e AMP i n t o i t . S t i r i n
t h e G a n t r e z . Add t h e Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d . Add f r a g r a n c e if d e s i r e d . Dow C o r n i n g 344 f l u i d can be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d . Aerosol F i 11 i ng :
hyd roca rbon p r o p e l l a n t (20% b y w e i g h t ) . S t a b i 1 i t y :
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Load t h e c o n c e n t r a t e (80% by w e i g h t ) and f i l l w i t h A-46
The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n has n o t been assessed. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0365 sugges ted by Dow C o r n i n g Corp . (E2-5273)
176 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
A .
B .
C .
D .
Elegant Touch Strong Hold, 80% VOC Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s : % b y Weight SD A l c o h o l 40, 200 p r o o f 40.00 D-Panthenol USP L u v i q u a t Mono CP L u v i s k o l VA 73 W U v i n u l MC 80 Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5220 AMP Regu la r
Luv imer 36D
F r a g r a n c e
D i m e t h y l E t h e r
0 .30 0 . 1 0 1 . o o 0 .10 0 . 2 3 1 . 4 7
16.70
0 .10
40.00
P rocedure : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase A . Add B t o A and m i x w e l l . Add C t o AB. F i l l i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0393 sugges ted b y BASF (SG1085/1A)
Acudyne 255 Spray Gel Formulation
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water
E t h a n o l D i s o d i um EDTA
Kathon CG C i t r o f 1 ex-2 Acudyne 255 (41%)
AMP-95
% b y We igh t 79 .94
6 .00 0 .10 0.62 0 . 0 4 0 . 1 0
1 0 . 0 0
B. A c u l y n 22 3 .20
P rocedure :
add phase B . S t i r u n t i l t h i c k e n e d .
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :
Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A i n o r d e r l i s t e d . S t i r u n t i l c l e a r ,
V i s c o s i t y ( # 4 (3 60 rpm) : 400 cps
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0392 sugges ted by Rohm & Haas C o . (PF-022b)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products 177
Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse
I n g r e d i e n t s : % b y Weight
AMP-95 0 . 6 0 Amodimethicone (and) nonoxynol -10 (and ) t a l l o w -
0 . 4 0 Phosphol i p i d EFA 0 . 6 0 A l c o h o l , d e n a t u r e d 10 .00 Water 3 7 . 3 5
A . Amphomer 3 . 7 5
t r i mon i um c h 1 o r i de
B. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l ose 0 . 3 0
C . Water 3 7 . 0 0
D. Prope l 1 a n t 10.00
P rocedure :
H e a t i n g may h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B l e n d BC i n A . P r e s s u r i z e w i t h D Combine A . C a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e B i n C w i t h good a g i t a t i o n .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0370 sugges ted by Angus/Mona
De-Frizzing Creme-Gel
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
D-Panthenol 5 0 P
Luv imer 36 D AMP-95
B. L u v i t o l EHO S e p i g e l 305
% by Weight 89 .45
1 . 0 0 0 . 2 5 2 .80
2 . 0 0 4 . 0 0
C . N ipaguard DMDMH 0 . 5 0
D . F rag rance q . s .
Procedure : Combine phase A i n o r d e r l i s t e d w h i l e m i x i n g . Combine phase B. Add B t o A under p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m e m u l s i o n i s
Add C and D t o AB and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0395 sugges ted b y BASF (ND547/2)
formed.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
178 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Firm Holding Mousse (Alcohol F r e e )
I n q r e d i e n t s : Wei n h t % Phase A : Water 43.80 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 .10 O c t y l a c r y l ami d e / A c r y l a t e s / B u t y l ami n o e t h y l M e t h a c r y l a t e
Copolymer 3 . 7 5 A m i nomethy l Propanol 0 .65 O c t o x y n o l - 9 0 . 2 0 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3 2 7 2 ) 0 . 2 5 Dimeth icone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 0 .40 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i n e E ) 0 . 2 5
Sodium L a c t a t e (and) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 0 . 2 0
and Sodium Benzoate (and) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0 .20 Pant hano l 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . F ragrance Q.S. Phase B : H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e 3 . 0 0 Water 3 7 . 0 0 Phase C : P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46 1 0 . 0 0 Procedure : 1 . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase B
3 . Combine Phases A / B . F i l t e r . 4 . F i l l . 5 . Charge P r o p e l 1 a n t .
F r u c t o s e (and ) Urea (and) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l
M ix u n t i l c l e a r .
Spray Hair Conditioner
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% Water 9 1 - 1 0 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 3 . 0 0 G1 y c e r i n 2 . 5 0 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3 2 7 2 ) 0 . 3 5 Sodium L a c t a t e (and) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and)
F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0 . 2 5
C i t r i c A c i d 0 . 2 0 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (Ab i 1 B 8851) 0 .60 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e (Tagat 0) 2 . 0 0 Fragrance Q.S. Procedure :
Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i ng we1 1 between a d d i t i o n s .
SOURCE: Goldschmid t Chemical Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products 179
Glossing Hair Conditioner
T h i s c o n d i t i o n e r p r o v i d e s e x c e p t i o n a l h a i r c o n t r o l , wet and d r y c o m b a b i l i t y , and g i v e s a s o f t g l o s s t o t h e h a i r . I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% Phase A : Water 91 .25 C i t r i c A c i d 0 . 5 0 Phase 8: Stearami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne (Tego Amid S 18) 1 . 2 5 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S.E. ( T e g i n ) 3 .00 Cete th-2 1 . 5 0 Behenoxy D i meth i cone ( A b i 1 Wax 2440) 0 . 3 5 Phase C : Propy lene G1 y c o l 0 .90 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) 0 . 4 0 Phase D : D imeth icone C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 8851) 0 .25 Sodium C h l o r i d e - 25% aqueous s o l u t i o n 0 . 6 0 Phase E : C o l o r , F ragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Procedure : 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r t o 70C. Add and d i s p e r s e t h e C i t r i c A c i d . 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o Phase A, one a t a t i m e ,
m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . A f t e r a l l a d d i t i o n s a r e made, mix u n t i l homogeneous.
m i x e r . m i x e r .
3 . Cool b a t c h t o 40C. M i x Phase C and add t o A / B . Use sweep
4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m u s i n g sweep
Acidic Hair Rinse
Gives permed and dyed h a i r a s o f t smooth t a c t i l e f e e l and g l o s s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 4.0 Phase 0 : Water 73 .8 G l y c e r i n 2 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d (10%) 0 . 2 Phase C : H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 2 . 5 % aqueous s o l u t i o n ) * 2 0 . 0 Phase D: Perfume Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ve Q.S.
Procedure : 1 . Heat Phase A and B t o 70C, s t i r B i n t o A and homogenize. 2 . Add t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and homogenize a g a i n . S t i r
3 . The per fume i s added a t 30C. SOURCE : Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp , : Suggested Formul a t i ons
* N a t r o s o l 250 HR
u n t i l t h e e m u l s i o n i s c o o l ( 3 0 C ) .
180 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioner
Formul a t i ng Des ign and Advantages: T h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x t u r e o f amino a c i d s f rom t h e
S i 1 k ' n S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dacso) . These amino a c i d s have a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when b l e a c h e d and damaged, l e a v i n g y o u r h a i r smooth and s i l k y .
Water Phase I : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l (Hoechs t ) G1 y c e r i ne (Uni chema) S i l k ' n S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco) Cel l o s i ze ( H e r c u l e s ) Me thy lpa raben ( S u t t o n )
O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) M i n o s i l ( P r i d e S o l v e n t s ) G l y c e r o l Monos tea ra te (Henkel ) Amerchol L 101 (Amercho l ) V i t a m i n E ( P h i b r o Chem) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase 1 1 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow)
y s 6 4 . 0
4 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 3 0 . 3
3 . 5 3 . 5 2 . 0 1 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 1
1 7 . 0 1 . o
P rocedure :
t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m ix t h e o i l phase u n t i l homogeneous and a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C i s m a i n t a i n e d . S l o w l y add t h e w a t e r phase I t o t h e o i l phase under moderate a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 55C and add wa te r phase 11. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l u n t i l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
i n t r o d u c e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f o r m u l a . C o n s i s t e n c y i s e a s i l y i n c r e a s e d by u s i n g a g r e a t e r c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a . Th i s w i 11 a1 so combi ne t o i n c r e a s e t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e p r o d u c t .
Heat t h e w a t e r phase I t o 75C under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t
O the r a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g agen ts a r e e a s i l y
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Hair Care Products 181
Hair Conditioner with DLL Quan t i t i Staqe M a t e r i a1 :. ~~
O i l Phase: 1 P r o c o l CS-20 D 2 * ooog 2 AEC Cher ry P i t O i l 0 .5009 Aqueous Phase: 3 Water ; Pure 87 .8509 4 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 0 ,5009 5 AEC D ime th i cone ( a ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) Lau re th -23 2 . ooog 6 AEC D ice ty ld i rnon ium C h l o r i d e 3 . OOOg 7 P ropy lene G l y c o l USP 3 . OOOg 8 Germaben 11-E 0 .5009 C o o l i n g C y c l e : 9 D-Panthenol 75% 0 .500g 10 Fragrance; Cher ry AG6330 0 .150g 11 C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d 9 M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r and b r i n g t o 70C w h i l e a d d i n g t h e r e m a i n i n g i t e m s o f t h e Aqueous Phase.
S e p a r a t e l y h e a t t h e O i l Phase t o 70C and w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Aqueous, mix b r i e f l y t h e n s t i r u n t i l c o o l .
Add Pantheno l and f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c o r p h o s p h o r i c a c i d .
C o l o u r as r e q u i r e d . T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may be r e a d i l y adapted t o t a k e h e r b a l
P r o j e c t : J W 2390/Formul a R e f . : 81 7*2 a d d i t i v e s , s o l u b l e p r o t e i ns and o t h e r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Hair Conditioner with DLLSt~3S_!!!a_t_e r.iia.1.: Qua.r-ti t y O i l Phase: 1 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 3 . OOOg 2 Emulgade 1000 N I 1 .5009 Aqueous Phase: 3 Water ; Pure 91 ,700g 4 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 1 .ooog 5 AEC D ime th i cone ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a ) Laure th -23 2 . ooog 6 Germaben 11-E 0 .5009 Cool i ng C y c l e : 7 P . A G 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r h a i r 0 .150g 8 Phosphor i c A c i d 0.15Og 9 C o l o u r s a s r e q u i r e d 9 M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r and b r i n g t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t t h e O i l Phase t o 70C and w i t h h i g h shear
m i x i n g add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Aqueous, mix b r i e f l y t h e n s t i r u n t i l c o o l .
t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 .
add i t i ves, s o l u b l e p r o t e i ns and o t h e r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s as r e q u i r e d .
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Add Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o u r as r e q u i r e d and a d j u s t
T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may be r e a d i l y adapted t o t a k e h e r b a l
P r o j e c t JW 2390/Formula R e f . : 815*2
182 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioner with DLL
M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure AEC D i c e t y l d i m o n i um C h l o r i d e P ropy lene G1 y c o l USP AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) Laure th-23 P r o c o l CS-20D D-Panthenol 75% N a t r o s o l 250 HR AEC C h e r r y P i t O i 1 Germaben 11 - E Fragrance; Cher ry AG6330 C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d
Formula R e f . : 81782
Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO
M a t e r i a l : Water, Pure I n c r o q u a t SDQ-25 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l USP Lexami ne S-13 C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d Emulgade 1000 N I AEC Cher ry P i t O i l N a t r o s o l 250 HR D-Panthenol 75% Germaben 11-E C i t r i c A c i d BP Fragrance; Cher ry AG6330
Formula R e f . : 816*1
Hair Conditioner with DLL
M a t e r i a l : Water; Pure C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 Emulgade 1000 N I N a t r o s o l 250 HR Germaben 11-E Phosphor i c A c i d P . AG 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r H a i r C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d
Formula R e f . : 815*2
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
o/ow/w 87.850
3 .000 3.000 2.000 2.000 0 .500 0.500 0 I 500 0 .500 0 .150
e 85.440
3.000 3 . 0 0 0 2 .220 2 .000 1 . ooo 1 .ooo 0 .750 0 .500 0 .500 0.440 0 .150
%w/w 91 .700
3 . 0 0 0 2.000 1 .500 1.000 0 .500 0.150 0 .150
Hair Cure Products 183
Hair Cream Gel
Phase: A A A A A A B B
I n g r e d i e& Ceteare th-12 C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l Cocoate O i l s o f A loha Macadamia G1 y c e r i ne D e i o n i z e d Water P r e s e r v a t i v e Perfume
Nut O i l
W S 10 .00 10.00 1 0 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 10 .00 54.00
QS 1 . o o
M a n u f a c t u r i ng Procedure : Phase A : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 95C. Cool t o 40C. Phase B : Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .
Used t o f i r m t h e h a i r and t o g i v e i t a b e a u t i f u l sheen.
SOURCE: O i 1s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Hair Gel
Phase# : 1 1 1 1 1
2
3 3
4 4
I n n r e d i e n t s : Dei o n i zed w a t e r G1 y c e r i ne SD 40 A l c o h o l D i s o d i um EDTA Co lorona Bordeaux
1% Carbopol 941 s o l u t i o n
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% Dei o n i zed w a t e r
SD 40 A l c o h o l PVP/VA E-735
Wt% 18.00
2 .00 1 0 . 0 0
0 . 0 5 5 . 0 0
50 .00
0 . 7 5 2 .20
1 0 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
Procedure :
add t h e r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r .
SOURCE: Rona/EM i n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n EM3-57-2
Combi ne phase #1 w i t h p r o p e l 1 e r a g i t a t i o n . When homogeneous,
184 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Repair and Conditioner
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Water G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S.E. ( T e g i n ) M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l A l c o h o l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 AV-20) C e t e t h - 2 Phase B : G l y c e r i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i meth i cone/Sodi um P o l y PG-Propyl D i meth i cone
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Phase C: C o l o r P r e s e r v a t i v e s Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) Procedure : 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f A t o g e t h e r w i t h m i x i n g t o 2 . Cool t o 45-50C. S w i t c h t o sweep m i x e r . 3 . B lend B. Add t o A . Sweep m i x . Cool t o 35-40C. 4 . A d j u s t pH. Add C o l o r , F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e s .
T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer ( A b i 1 S 201 )
Weight%
88.10 4 .00 1 . o o 2 .00 0 .50 1 .oo
1 . o o 1 .oo
1 . 0 0 0 . 4 0
Q . S . Q . S . Q.S.
t o pH 7 . 2
70C.
Conditioning Hair Rinse far Oily Hair
P r o v i d e s r e f a t t i n g , m o i s t u r i z i n g and reduces s t a t i c f l y - a w a y o f h a i r . S o f t c o n d i t i o n i n g .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Pol y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l ucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) Phase B: Water D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 8852) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l C i t r i c A c i d (10%) Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Phase C: H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 2 . 5 % aqueous s o l u t i o n ) * Phase D : Perfume P r e s e r v a t i ve
Procedure : *Nat r o s o l 250HR
%w/w
4 . 0
71 . 5 1 . o 3 . 0 0 . 2 0 . 3
2 0 . 0
Q . S . Q . S .
1 . Heat Phase A and B t o 70C, s t i r B i n t o A and homogenize. 2 I Add t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and homogeni ze a g a i n . S t i r
3 . The per fume i s added a t 30C.
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
u n t i l t h e e m u l s i o n i s c o o l ( 3 0 C ) .
Hair Care Products 185
Hair Shaping Gloss
Fgrrnul!a_:_ % by WeightOil Phase:Volpo 10 (Croda) 9.00Crodafos N3N (Croda) 3.20Crodafos N10N (Croda) 2.50Crodamol PTC (Croda) 0.80Blandol Mineral Oil (Witco) 12.00Parsol MCX 0.60Propyl Paraben 0,15Aqueous Phase:Volpo S-20 (Croda) 1.50Glycerine 9.00Propylene Glycol 1,40Methyl Paraben 0.30Germall 115 0.20Deionized Water 58.85Protein Phase:Cromoist HYA (Croda) 0.25Kerasol (Croda) 0.25
Procedure:Heat oil phase to 80-85C, heat aqueous phase to 85C. Add
aqueous phase to oils under good mechanical agitation. Cool to45C, add proteins. F i l l off.
Conditioning, Setting Gel
Fp_rjmjl_aj_ % by WeightA:Isoceteth-20 20.0Blandol Mineral Oil (Witco) 11.0Oleth-2 6,0B:Water 49.6Sorbitol Solution, USP 7.0Propylene Glycol 5,0Soyaethyl Morpholinium Ethosulfate 1.4
Procedure:Heat A and B to 9OC. Add B to A with gentle stirring. Cool
to 8OC and add make-up water. Stir until uniform and pour whilestil l fluid.
SOURCE: Witco Corp,: Suggested Formulations
186 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Straightener
Formula;- O i l Phase: C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Wh i te P r o t o p e t 1 s ( W i t c o ) Lipowax N I L i p o c o l C L i p o c o l S-2 Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water L i p o c o l 5-20 L i p o l a n 31 P ropy lene G l y c o l ( A r c o ) S ipon 201-10 ( A l c o l a c ) Water Phase B: L i t h i u m Hydrox ide Monohydrate Dei o n i zed Water
% b y Wei q h t
11 - 0 0 1 1 . o o 1 6 . 0 0
1 . o o 0 . 5 0
50 .00 1 .50 2 .00 2 .00 0 . 2 5
3 . 5 0 1 . 2 5
P rocedure : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o i l phase i n main k e t t l e and h e a t
t o 75C. Combine A i n s i d e k e t t l e and h e a t t o 75C, Add A t o O i l Phase a t 75C w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 65C w i t h m i x i n g and s p r i n k l e i n l i t h i u m h y d r o x i d e f r o m 6 . Cool t o 50C and add c o l d w a t e r f r o m B. Cool t o 42C and f i l l . Reduc ing Lipowax N I l e v e l t o 12% r e s u l t s i n s o f t e r cream.
Hair Relaxer
..-______ Formula : A: 61 ando l M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Macol 124 C e t y l A l c o h o l PEG-75 Lano l i n B : Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Avanel S-150 Cal c i um H y d r o x i de
Water Xanthan G u m (Ke lco-Merck)
% b y Weigh t
1 2 . 0 11 . o 2 . 0 3 . 0
2 8 . 0 5 . 0 3 . 5
1 0 . 0
25 .0 0 . 5
P rocedure : B l e n d A i n g r e d i e n t s , hea t s l o w l y t o 70C. Premix B and h e a t
t o 70C; add s l o w l y t o A w i t h h i g h shear , f o r m i n g t h e e m u l s i o n . Premix C, h e a t i n g t o 55C. When u n i f o r m add t o main b a t c h w i t h h i g h s h e a r . Cool w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g sweep a g i t a t i o n . Package a t 35-4OC.
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp I : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products 187
Hair Styling Cream (for dried hair) I n q r e d i en& % b y Weigh t Phase 1 : Lanocer i n 1 2 . 0 0 E s t o l EHP 8 . 0 0 Crodaco l CS-50 6 . 0 0 S tandapo l WAQ-Speci a1 5 . 0 0 P e t r o l a t u m 5 . 0 0 Crodaco l C-95 2 .00 L i p o c o l C-10 1 . o o I n c r o c a s - 4 0 1 . o o O z o k e r i t e Wax 1 . o o L i p o c o l S-10 0 .75 Carnauba Wax 0 . 5 0 Phase 2 : D i s t i 11 ed Water 4 0 . 4 1 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 4 .00 Amp homer 2 . 0 0 AMP-95 0 . 3 4 Phase 3 : E t h a n o l , SDA-40 10 .00 Germaben I 1 1 . o o Procedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase 1 . Heat t o 80C. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase 2, excep t f o r Amphomer. W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , hea t i n g r e d i e n t s t o 60C. S l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer. B r i n g hea t t o 80C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 1 w i t h i n g r e d - i e n t s o f Phase 2 . Mix f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 50C. Add i n g r e d - i e n t s o f Phase 3 . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A l l o w t o c o o l .
Corp . (8334-66) Formul a t i on PF-0353 suggested by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical
Resyn Hair Spray with Dimethicone CopolyolT h i s h a i r s p r a y c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t wh ich
p l a s t i c i z e s t h e r e s i n . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n shows how s i l i c o n e g l y - c o l s can be used i n Resyn-based h a i r s p r a y s . Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5220 r e s i n m o d i f i e r can be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t .
Dow C o r n i n g 193 0 . 5 0 Resyn 28-3307 3 . 0 0 AMP Regu la r 0 . 2 8 SD A l c o h o l 40 76 .22 P rope l 1 a n t A-46 2 0 . 0 0 Procedure :
D i s s o l v e t h e Resyn i n t o t h e e t h a n o l . Add t h e AMP. Add Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e i f d e s i r e d . Ae roso l F i 11 i ng :
hyd roca rbon p r o p e l l a n t (20% b y w e i g h t ) . S t a b ? 1 i t y :
I n q r e d i en=; %.&LvgiLsiht
Load t h e c o n c e n t r a t e (80% b y w e i g h t ) and f i l l w i t h A-46
The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n has n o t been assessed. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0363 suggested b y Dow C o r n i n g Corp . (E2-5285)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r p . : P roduc t Fo rmu la ry
188 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner
The d u a l a c t i o n o f t h e Croda fos CES and t h e I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS i n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g t o h a i r .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wt% P a r t A : Croda fos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 6 . 0 0 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behen t r imon ium M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 ) 1 - 0 0
P r o p y l paraben 0 .10 Vo lpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0 .50 Crodaco l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 Crodamol PTIS ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o o
P a r t 0 : Dei o n i zed Water 87 .98 I n c r o m e c t a n t Lamea (Acetamide MEA (and ) Lac tamide MEA) 1 - 0 0 M e t h y l Paraben 0 .10
P a r t C : TEA 99% 0 .32
P rocedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-70C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and add P a r t C . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC.
pH=4.50+-0.5 V iscos i t y=56 ,000+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e , #T-D, 10 rpm, d 25C) N.A.T.C. Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n HP-178-1
Hair Shine Concentrated Gel
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water A b i l OSW-12 A b i l AV-20 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Hexy l ene G1 y c o l P r e s e r v a t i v e s Po l y a c r y l ami de (and ) C1
Procedure :
%w/w 25.45 27.27
4 . 5 5 35 .00
4 . 5 5
14 I s o p a r a f f i n (and ) L a u r e t h - 7 3 . 1 8 Q . S .
B l e n d t h e i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n w i t h m i x i n g . When a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combi ned, c o n t i nue m i x i ng u n t i 1 c l e a r . V i s c o s i t y w i l l d e v e l o p a f t e r m i x i n g .
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Hair Care Products 189
High Performance 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
T h i s h i g h s o l i d s 80% VOC non-aeroso l h a i r s p r a y combines low s o l u t i o n v i s c o s i t y , a f i n e , m i s t y s p r a y and o p t i m a l d r y i n g t i m e w i t h a h a r d h o l d and good h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e .
I n g r e d i e n t s : L o v o c r y l - 4 7 AMP Regu lar C i t r o f 1 ex-2 C r o t e i n ADW d l -Pantheno1 P u r c e l 1 i n O i 1 Dei o n i zed Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40
P a r t s by Weight 8 . 0 0 1.61 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5 0 . 0 5 9 . 9 9
8 0 . 0 0
Valve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : Calmar Mark I 1 V a l v e Head : WS I n d u c t o r : 6 1 / 4 " SPV: 302 SS ACM: 1 BLIP GSK: 05744
P r e p a r a t i o n : D i s s o l v e AMP i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . Whi l e m a i n t a i n i n g good
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l - 4 7 . Once d i s s o l v e d , add b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
F o r m u l a t i o n 7974:115
Ultra-Hold Finishing Spray
T h i s anhydrous a e r o s o l h a i r s p r a y has a s t i f f h o l d w i t h e x c e l l e n t h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e , c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h a w ide v a r i e t y o f a d d i t i v e s and e x c e l l e n t s u b j e c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s on h a i r .
I n a r e d i e n t s : Resyn 28-2930 AMP Regu lar
Phosphol i p i d EFA TEA Sa l i c y 1 a t e Monamid 716 Fragrance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 Prope l 1 a n t A-46
DC Q2-5220
P a r t s by Weight 5 . 4 0 0 . 5 4 0 . 2 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 0 5 0 .10
68.51 25.00
q . s .
P r e p a r a t i on : D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l , W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,
s l o w l y s i f t Resyn 28-2930 i n t o t h e v o r t e x . When t h e s o l u t i o n i s comple te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .
F o r m u l a t i o n 6472:146
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
190 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO
Stage M a t e r i a1 : Q u a n t i t y S tage A : 1 Water ; Pure 85.4409 2 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 0 .7509 3 Germaben 11-E 0 .5009 S tage B: 4 I n c r o q u a t SDQ-25 3 . OOOg 5 Emulgade 1000 N I 1 . o o o g 6 AEC C h e r r y P i t O i l 1 .ooog 7 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 3 . OOOg 8 C i t r i c A c i d BP 0.4409 9 Lexamine S-13 2 ,2209 C o o l i n g C y c l e : 10 D-Panthenol 75% 0.5009 11 F rag rance ; C h e r r y AG6330 0 .150g 12 C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d 2 . ooog M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r and b r i n g t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t t h e O i l Phase t o 70C and w i t h h i g h shear
m i x i n g add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Aqueous, mix b r i e f l y t h e n s t i r u n t i l c o o l .
Add F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o u r as r e q u i r e d and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 .
T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may be r e a d i l y adap ted t o t a k e h e r b a l a d d i t i v e s , s o l u b l e p r o t e i n s and o t h e r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s as r e q u i r e d .
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : P r o j e c t : JW 2335/Formula R e f . 816*l
Hair Straightener
P a n a l a n e ' s f u n c t i o n i s t o reduce s c a l p b u r n w h i l e p r o v i d i n g e m o l l i e n c e and s p r e a d a b i l i t y . Ye t i t has a l e s s g reasy f e e l i n g on t h e s k i n t h a n o t h e r o i l s used i n t h i s t y p e o f p r o d u c t . Pana- l a n e i s s t a b l e a t t h e h i g h pH r e q u i r e d f o r t h i s a p p l i c a t i o n . Sequence: Raw M a t e r i a l : P e r c e n t
1 Dei o n i zed Water 56.00 1 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2 . 0 0 1 Uniphen P-23 1 . o o 2 Lipowax P 15.00 2 P e t r o l a t u m W h i t e 8 . 0 0 2 Panal ane L-14E 10.00 3 Sodi um H y d r o x i de (25% s o l n ) 8 . 0 0
P rocedure : 1 . Combine and h e a t Sequence #1 and Sequence #2 s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C 2 . Add Sequence # 2 t o Sequence #1 w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g Sequence #3 . 4 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemica ls I n c . : Formula No. 825
Hair Care Products 191
Modern Expression Hair Mask
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
P1 u r a c a r e F127 L u v i q u a t Mono CP D-Panthenol 50 P L u v i s k o l VA 73 W Dow C o r n i n g 193 P o l y e t h e r Hydro1 yzed Wheat P r o t e i n
N i paguard DMDMH
Tenox BHT (10% i n SD A l c o h o l )
So l u - S O ~ EN25
AMP-95
B. Cremophor RH 40 F rag rance
% b y We igh t 70.01 20.00
1 . o o 2 . o o 1 - 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 7 0 0 . 3 0 0 .50 0 . 4 9 1 . 0 0
0 . 3 5 0 . 1 5
C . Luv imer 100 P 2 . 0 0
Procedure :
t o t h e w a t e r and m i x u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous. U s i n g c o l d w a t e r f o r phase A (4C-1OC) s l o w l y add t h e P l u r a c a r e
Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f A t o t h e P l u r a c a r e s o l u t i o n . Combine Phases B and C s e p a r a t e l y . M a i n t a i n t h e phase A t e m p e r a t u r e be low 1OC and add phases B
T r a n s f e r t h e m i x t u r e t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s and a l l o w t o and C t o A .
warm up t o room t e m p e r a t u r e , whereupon t h e l i q u i d becomes a r i n g i n g g e l .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0397 sugges ted by BASF (SG1103/2)
Spiking Spritz
T h i s s p i k i n g s p r i t z c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 190 s u r f a c t a n t , wh ich reduces t a c k i n e s s and p r o v i d e s a 1 i g h t , nongreasy f e e l .
I n g r e d i e n t s : E t h a n o l (190 p r o o f ) Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t AMP-Regul a r Amp homer
Procedure : M ix i n o r d e r .
% by Weight 91 .90
1 . 0 0 1 . 1 0 6 . 0 0
S t a b i 1 i t y : 3 months a t 40C 6 months a t room t e m p e r a t u r e
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0367 sugges ted b y Dow C o r n i n g Corp. (E8239-21)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co . : P roduc t Formul a r y
192 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Aerosol Finishing Spray
A l i g h t , holding spray that provides a conditioning sheenthrough the use of Phospholipid EFA,
%_By WeightSD Alcohol 40 94.10Vinyl Acetate/Crotonic Acid Copolymer 3.75Water 1.20Phospholipid EFA 0.60Aminomethyl Propanol 0.35
Add vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer to alcohol slowlywith adequate agitation, mix until well dispersed. Add amino-methyl propanol to neutralize, and mix until dissolved. Addremaining ingredients, color, fragrance and package.
Finishing Spray
% By.__Weigil±SD Alcohol 40 94.10Resyn 28-1310 3.75Water 1 .20Aminomethyl Propanol 0.35Phospholipid EFA 0.60
Procedure:Add Resyn 28-1310 to alcohol slowly with adequate agitation,
mix until well dispersed. Add aminomethyl propanol to neutralize,and mix until dissolved. Add remaining ingredients color, frag-rance and package.
Replenishing Creme Rinse
% By WeightWater 87.80Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.70Glycol Distearate 2.00Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50Monaquat TG 6.70Phospholipid EFA 0.30
Procedure;Charge water, carefully add Natrosol 250 HHR with good agit-
ation. Heat to 50-60 and add remaining ingredients and continueheating to 7OC. Cool to 45C and adjust pH to 4.5 to 5.0. Addcolor, fragrance and preservative as required. Continue agit-ation and cooling until pearl develops.
Formula F-577
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products 193
Pelan Hair Conditioner
T h i s p r o d u c t employs humectants , e m o l l i e n t s and n a t u a l c o n d i - t i o n e r s such as Pe lan B l a c k and L i p o q u a t R wh ich s o f t e n and e n r i c h t h e h a i r , l e a v i n g a h e a l t h y s h i n e .
Sequence Raw M a t e r i a1 : 1 Dei o n i zed Water 1 K e l t r o l
3 L i p o n i c EG-1 3 Uniphen P-23
Wei q h t % 79.00
0 . 3 0
2 .00 0 . 5 0
4 Pe lan B l a c k 8 .00
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
L i p o c o l C L i p 0 GMS-450 L i p o n a t e SPS Lipowax D L ipopeg 6000 DS L i p o n a t e I P P Lipowax P L i p o c o l S L i p o n a t e DPC-6 V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
6 Dei o n i zed Water 6 L i poqua t R
1 . 5 0 1 . 2 5 1 . o o 1 . o o 1 . o o 0 . 7 5 0 . 7 5 0 . 6 5 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0
1 . o o 0.30
Procedure : 1 . Heat Sequence #1 t o 76C. 2 . Add Sequence #2 t o Sequence # 1 s l o w l y on overhead m i x e r a t
3 . Once Sequence #2 i s c o m p l e t e l y h y d r a t e d , add Sequence #3 i n
4 . Add Sequence # 4 t o b a t c h under homogen iza t i on a t low/medium
5 . Heat Sequence #5 t o 78C, u n t i l c l e a r , t h e n add t o b a t c h under
6 . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , p r e m i x Sequence #6 and add t o h e a t e d
7 . S w i t c h t o overhead m i x e r a t l o w speed w h i l e c o o l i n g t o room
medi um/hi gh speed.
o r d e r o f a d d i t i o n , w h i l e h o l d i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 76C.
speed whi 1 e h o l d i ng t e m p e r a t u r e a t 76C.
homogen iza t i on a t low/medium speed.
b a t c h on homomixer a t l o w speed f o r 20-30 seconds.
t e m p e r a t u r e .
Speci f i c a t i ons : p H : 5 . 2 t - 0 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 27,900i-10% LVT #3 @ 3 . 0 rpm
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemicals I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 946
194 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pomade
Formul a t i ng Desi gn and Advantages :
s t i l l have good f u n c t i o n a l p r o p e r t i e s t o w a r d h a i r . T h i s anhydrous p r o d u c t has been f o r m u l a t e d f o r l o w c o s t and
Formul a : P e r f e c t a P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) M i n e r a l O i 1 USP (Kaydo l - W i t c o ) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) Ceres ine Wax 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) V i t a m i n E (BASF) Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) D & C Red # 1 7 Dye ( W h i t t a k e r ) Coconut F rag rance O i l (Aroma Tech)
YO b y Weiqht 3 2 . 0 0 51 . 5 5
6 . 0 0 8 . 0 0 0.20 2.00 0 . 0 5 0.20
Procedure :
70C and m i x . Once homogeneous, a l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e m i x i n g . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 50C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
p r o d u c t c o n s i s t e n c y . A d d i t i o n a l a c t i v e s may b e i n c o r p o r a t e d t o f i t consumer ' s needs .
Add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s excep t f r a g r a n c e i n t o a v e s s e l , h e a t t i l l
S u b s t i t u t i o n o f t h e dye and /o r f r a g r a n c e w i l l n o t a l t e r
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Hair Straightener
_ _ _ _ _ ~ ~ _ Formula : A : Dei o n i zed Water P ropy lene G1 y c o l B: Pol awax W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e C: Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% s o l . ) D: P ropy lene G 1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea ( a n d )
Me thy lpa raben ( a n d ) P ropy lpa raben ( S u t t o n )
1 5 . 0 0 8 . 0 0
10 .00
8 . 0 0
1 . o o
P rocedure :
75C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e wa te r phase w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C b e f o r e add ing C and D . Cool t o room temp. and package.
Combine and h e a t w a t e r phase A and o i l phase B s e p a r a t e l y t o
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Hair Care Products 195
Premium Biodegradable Hair Conditioner
D. I. Water H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e Sodi um H y d r o x i de (50%) Ammonyx GA-SO/GA-70PG Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l Kessco O c t y l I sononanoa te Potass ium C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d (50%) F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e
% b y Weight Q . S . t o 100 .0
0 .70 Q.S.
2 .22 /2 .86 2 .00 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
Q . S . Q . S .
M i x i n g Procedure: I n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l equ ipped w i t h h e a t i n g , c o o l i n g , and
a g i t a t i o n means, add D . I . Wa te r . B e g i n m i x i n g . I n t o a v o r t e x , s p r i n k l e i n H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e . Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e t o r a i s e t h e p H t o 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 and c o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l of t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e has d i s s o l v e d (30-40 m i n u t e s ) I Heat t o 70-75C. Add Ammonyx GA-90 o r GA-70PG, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , and Kessco O c t y l I sononanoa te . E m u l s i f y f o r 30 m i n u t e s and m a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e between 70-75C. Cool t o 38-48C and add Potass ium C h l o r i d e d i s s o l v e d i n w a t e r . A d j u s t f i n a l pH ( 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 ) w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , i f n e c e s s a r y . Cool t o amb ien t t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s .
Ethnic Hair Shine
Dow C o r n i n g S i l i c o n e 245 Kessco O c t y l I sononanoa te O c t y l Me thoxyc i nnamate
M i x i ng P rocedure : Combi ne a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i ng I
SOURCE: Stepan Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
56 by Weiqht 7 0 . 0 25 .0
5 . 0
196 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pump Hair Spray
Pump H a i r Spray based on t h e we l l -known Gant rez ES-225, c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 3225C F o r m u l a t i o n a i d wh ich f u n c t i o n s i n two ways. F i r s t , t h e c y c l o m e t h i c o n e component p r o v i d e s l u b r i c i t y f o r t h e i n i t i a l s t y l i n g and combing. Second, t h e d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l component remains b e h i n d a f t e r a l l t h e v o l a t i l e s a r e gone, t o p r o v i d e easy combing. Daw C o r n i n g 3225C a l s o a c t s as a r e s i n p l a s t i c i z e r and d e t a c k i f i e r .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Dow C o r n i n g 3225C F l u i d Gant rez ES-225 AMP-Regul a r SD A l c o h o l 40
% by Weight 1 .oo 6 .90 0 . 2 0
91.90
Procedure : Weigh o u t t h e a l c o h o l and d i s s o l v e t h e AMP i n t o i t . S t i r i n
t h e r e s i n and t h e Dow C o r n i n g 3225C f o r m u l a t i o n a i d . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and add f r a g r a n c e i f d e s i r e d I
S t a b i l i t y : The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n has n o t been assessed. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0366 suggested by Dow C o r n i n g Corp. (E2-3287)
Flexible Spray Gel
H i g h l y shear t h i n n i n g due t o t h e copolymer t h i c k e n e r i n Phase B.
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Water E t h a n o l D i sod i um EDTA
Kathon CG C i t r o f l ex-2 Acudyne 255, 41%
P a r t B: A c u l y n 22
AMP-95
46 by Weight
79.94 6 .00 0 . 1 0 0 . 6 2 0 .04 0 . 1 0
10 .00
3 . 2 0
Procedure :
t h i c k e n e d .
P r o p e r t i 8s :
Combine A i n o r d e r shown. S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . Add B . S t i r u n t i l
V i s c o s i t y ( # 4 a t 60 rpm) : 400 cps F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0369 suggested b y Rohm & Haas.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: P r o d u c t Formulary
Hair Care Products 197
Salon Type Hair Conditioner
S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o t e i n /pan theno l based c o n d i t i o n e r d e s i g n e d f o r achievement o f s a l o n t y p e pe r fo rmance .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . R i t a STAC-80- ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 3 . R i t a CTAC-605 (Ce t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) 4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 50% 5. D i m e t h y l Stearami ne (Adogen MA-1 08) 6 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 7 . Amandul ine SG (Sweet Almond P r o t e i n ) 8. R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 9 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 10. P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 11 . P o l y q u t a 400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10) 12 .Ka thon CG 13.Dow C o r n i n g 7224 14.Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 1 5 . F r a g r a n c e
%w/w 5 .00 2 .50 0.50 0 . 1 8 0 . 1 3 85.84
2 .00 0.50 1 - 0 0 0 . 5 0 1 - 0 0 0 . 0 3 0 . 4 0 0 . 1 7 0 .25
Compounding P rocedure : D i s p e r s e i t e m 11 i n i t e m 6 w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat t o 70C. Add
i t e m s 8, 9, 10 and 1 3 . Combine i t e m s 1, 2, 3 and 5 and h e a t t o 70C. Add t o w a t e r phase. Add i t e m 4 and m ix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Add i t e m s 7, 12, 14 and 15 when c o o l .
R e f . No. 121-177
Pump Spray Hair Conditioner
A pump s p r a y c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n i n g P o l y q u t a 400 , R i t a s i 1 190 and Amandul ine SG f o r c o n d i t i o n i n g .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water
Y f i 89.60
2 . P o l y q u t a 400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10) 0 . 5 0 3 . Amandul ine SG ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n ) 5.00
5. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 3 .50 4. R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 1 - 0 0
6 . G l y d a n t 0 . 2 0 7 . F rag rance 0 .20
Compounding P rocedure : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 . Heat i f necessa ry . A l l o w t o c o o l
and add i t e m s 3-7. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 121-181
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
198 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Soft Set Conditioning Mousse
T h i s c o n d i t i o n i n u mousse f o r m u l a t i o n D r o v i d e s f o r b o t h a s o f t , non tacky h o l d t o a ha f i b e r s . The Sodium Po c o n t r i b u t e s g l o s s and I n gr ed 1-e n t s : P a r t A: Water S tea ramidopropy l PG-d P a r t 8 : I s o p r o p y l A l c o h o l Sod1 um P o l y PG-propyl
( A b i l 5-201) AMP-95 B u t y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA P a r t C :
r s e t and a c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t on t h e h a i r y PG-propyl D ime th i cone T h i o s u l f a t e hydrophob i c i t y t o t h e h a i r .
YO b y Weigh t
82 .20 moniurn c h l o r i d e Dhosphate 3 . 0 0
D ime th i cone T h i o s u l f a t e
copo lymer
1 0 . 0 0
0 . 5 0 0 . 3 0 2 .00
D ime th i cone Copo lyo l (Ab1 1 B 8851) 2 . 0 0 P a r t D: Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s q . s . F i l l : C o n c e n t r a t e 83 .30 I s o b u t a n e 1 6 . 7 0 P rocedure :
M ix A . Heat t o 65C and c o n t i n u e t o m ix u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. S e p a r a t e l y m ix B a t 25C u n t i l homogeneous. Add A t o B w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add C and D, m ix u n t i l homogeneous. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . Cool t o 25C. Charge i n t o a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r . Add p r o o o l l a n t .
Formul a t 1 on PF-0237 suggested by Go1 dschmi d t Cherni c a l Corp.
Styling/Conditioning Mousse
I n g r e d i e n t s : 9/0 b y Wg1gtll Phase A : Water , d e i o n i z e d 74 .15 Mu lgo fen ON-870 0 . 1 0 Gafquat H S - 1 0 0 10 .00 D ime th i cone p o l yo1 0 . 4 0 Phase 8 : Ethano l 1 0 . 0 0 Advantage CP 5 . 0 0 AMP Regu la r 0 . 3 5 Aeroso l F i 11 : C o n c e n t r a t e 90-95 P ropane ibu tane 5-1 0 P rocedure :
P repare Phase A b y d i s s o l v i n g Mu lgo fen i n w a t e r . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , s t i r t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . P repare Phase B b y d i s s o l v i n g AMP Regu la r i n e t h a n o l . Then add Advantage C P , m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add per fume w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Charge a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i ze w i t h p r o p e l 1 a n t .
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Corp . : P roduc t Fo rmu la ry Formul a t 1 on PF-0240E suggested by ISP
Hair Care Products 199
Strong Advantage Mousse
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
L u v i q u a t Mono CP D-Panthenol 50P Dow C o r n i n g 193 P o l y e t h e r Hydro1 yzed Wheat P r o t e i n N i paguard DMDMH AMP-95
% b y Weight 81 - 5 0
1 .oo 0 .32 1 . o o 0 .20 0 . 5 0 0 . 9 8
B . Luv imer 100 P 4 . 0 0
C . Cremophor RH 40 L ipopeg 6000 DS F rag rance ( H a i r Monster U800 025)
0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0
D. P r o p e l l a n t A46 1 0 . 0 0
P rocedure : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase A and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add phase B t o A and m i x . Add C t o AB and m i x . F i 11 i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l 1 a n t ,
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0396 suggested b y BASF (SG1099/2)
Shape N' Style Volumizing Spritz
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f
Dei o n i zed w a t e r L u v i s k o l VA 73 E D-Panthenol USP U v i n u l MC 80
F rag rance AMP-95
% b y We igh t 82 .00
7 . 4 1 4 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 4 9
q . s
8. Luv imer 36 D 5 .50
P rocedure :
each a d d i t i o n . Combine phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g a f t e r
Add B t o A and m i x .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0394 sugges ted by BASF (ND546/1)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : P roduc t F o r m u l a r y
200 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vision '98 55% VOC Hairspray
I na r e d i en t s : A . SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f
Dei o n i zed w a t e r D-Panthenol USP
Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t Luv imer Low VOC
AMP-95
% by Weight 58.00 23.87
0 . 5 0 1 .13 0 .10
16.20
B . F r a g r a n c e 0 .20
Procedure : Combine phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w r i t e n o r d e r under m i x i n g . Add B t o A and m i x w e l l .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0400 suggested by BASF Corp. (ND6098/1)
Vision '98 55% VOC Hairspray
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f
Dei on i zed w a t e r D-Panthenol USP
Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t Luv imer Low VOC
AMP-95
% by Weight 58.00 1 4 . 3 5
0 . 5 0 1 .70 0 . 2 0
25.00
0 . Fragrance 0 . 2 5
Procedure : Combine phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w r i t t e n o r d e r under m i x i n g . Add B t o A and mix w e l l .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0401 suggested by BASF Corp. (ND6098/2)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products 201
Vision '98 Pump Hairspray - 55% VOC - 6% Solids
I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f D-Panthenol
Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t Luv imer Low VOC
AMP-95
Phase B: F rag rance (Balsam HF-F-95
Procedure : Combine phase A i n g r e d Add B t o A and m ix we1
Packagi ng :
YO by We iqh t
23 .50 5 8 . 0 0
0 .50 1 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
1 6 . 2 0
14276) 0 . 2 0
e n t s i n t h e w r i t t e n o r d e r .
M i l a n - O v a l B o t t l e (Ca lpac C o n t i n e r C o r p . ) A i r Fo rce I 1 Pump (Emerson C o r p . )
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0348 suggested by BASF Corp. (ND6037/1)
Forever Curls Hair Spray
P a r t i c u l a r l y e f f e c t i v e f o r c u r l r e t e n t i o n , t h i s pump s p r a y keeps c u r l s b e a u t i f u l l y i n p l a c e . By g i v i n g h a i r more body and a d d i n g l u b r i c i t y , H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL enhances t h e h o l d and keeps h a i r f e e l i n g s o f t and smooth. C rovo l A-70 i s used h e r e as a s o l u b i 1 1 z e r and p l a s t i c i z e r .
I ng red?. e n t SA P a r t A :
Amphomer 28-4910
P a r t 8: Dei o n i zed Water Crovo l A-70
SDA-40 A 1 coho1
AMP-95
P a r t C: H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL
63 .50 0 . 7 5
33 .62 1 - 0 0 0 . 1 3
1 . o o
P rocedure :
w i t h v i g o r o u s m i x i n g . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and f i l l .
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A by d u s t i n g Amphomer i n t o a l c o h o l
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0169 suggested by Croda I n c .
S O U R C E : Angus Chemical C o . : P roduc t Fo rmu la ry
202 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel
T h i c k , s p r e a d a b l e g e l h o l d s , m o i s t u r i z e s , and adds s h i n e and p r o t e c t i v e p r o t e i n s t o h a i r .
~- I n q r e d i e n t _ s l P a r t A : Pol y s o r b a t e - 2 0 PPG-12 PEG-65 l a n o l i n o i l ( I v a r l a n AWS) F rag rance
YO by We igh t
1 . 0 0 2.00 0.20
P a r t B: G l y c e r i n 10.00 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 2 2 . 2 0 H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n (Wheat-Tei n NL) 1 . o o P r e s e r v a t i v e , c o l o r q . s .
P a r t C : Carbomer 940 , 2% a q . s o l n . (Carbopol 9 4 0 )
P a r t D: AM P - 9 5
P a r t E : I s o p r o p y l A l c o h o l , 99% PVP/PA copolymer (PVP/VA E-735)
50.00
0.60
1 0 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
P a r t F: E t h y l e s t e r o f h y d r o l y z e d k e r a t i n ( K e r a - t e i n 1000 A S ) 1 . D O
P rocedure :
C . Add D to ABC. M i x t u r e w i l l c l e a r and t h i c k e n . Premix E . Add t o b a t c h . Add F; m i x .
Premix A u n t i l c l e a r . Add B . M ix u n t i l homogeneous. Add t o
Forniul a t i o n PF-0255 sugges ted by Maybrook
Pump Hairspray
_. I n g r e d i ~ e n t s : Gan t rez ES 225 AMP Regu la r F i n s o l v TN E t h a n o l
"/. bYLW&Q!Lt 9 . 0 0 0 * 45 0 . 5 0
9 0 . 0 5
P rocedure :
ue m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add F i n s o l v TN and m i x . D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . Add t h e r e s i n w i t h m i x i n g and c o n t i n -
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0358 sugges ted by F i n e t e x
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : P roduc t F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products 203
W/O Hair Sculpturing Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei a h t % Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and ) C e t y l D ime th i cone Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e (Ab i 1 WE-09) 5 . 0 0
Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 0 .50 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 0 . 2 0 P e t r o l a t u m 1 . 8 0 M i n e r a l O i l 7 . 5 0 Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20 ) 1 . o o O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S ) 2 . 0 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P ) 2 .00 Phase B: G l y c e r i n 2 . 5 0 P ropy lene G1 y c o l 2 .50 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q . S . Water 70.15 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 0 DL-Panthenol 0 . 4 0 H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n 0 .40 PV P 1 . o o Q u a t e r n i urn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) 0 .25 Phase C : F rag rance Q . S . P rocedure : 1 . Add t h e components o f t h e o i l phase t o g e t h e r . Heat t o m e l t
and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. When d i s p e r s e d , c o o l t o t e m p e r a t u r e o f 45-50C.
2 . M i x t h e w a t e r and sodium c h l o r i d e . Heat t o 45-5OC. 3 . W i t h s o f t l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s t r e a m t h e w a t e r phase s l o w l y
i n t o t h e o i l phase. 4 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 35C. 5 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r homogenizer .
Spray Detangler/Conditioner
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Te t rasod ium EDTA P r e s e r v a t i v e s P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Q u a t e r n i urn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e (Taga t 0) Sodium L a c t a t e (and) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and)
F r u c t o s e (and ) Urea (and) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l )
D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183)
Wei Q h t % 96 I 50
0 . 1 0
1 . 6 0 0 .30 0 . 4 5
Q . S .
0.30 0 , 7 5
C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH 4 . 0 F rag rance Q . S . Procedure :
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . A d j u s t pH. F r a g r a n c e .
204 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s : SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water
Omni rez-2000 Ammoni um H y d r o x i de MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e
AMP-95
% by Weight 1 4 . 9 0 38 - 9 7
0 .33 10 .00
0 .30 0.40
D i m e t h y l E t h e r 35 .00
Va l v e : Seaqui s t : ST-74 Stem: 0 .018" Body : c a p i 11 a r y V . Tap: 0 .01 5" I D T u b i n g : 0 .050" A c t u a t o r : ST-150 M i s t y O r i f i c e : 0 .023"
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0383 sugges ted b y I S P (10263-11)
Acudyne 255 55% VOC HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray
I n s r e d i e n t s : A . Water
E t h a n o l
DC 190 F l u i d AMP-95
% b y Weight 1 . 8 0
55 .00 0 . 5 6 0 . 1 0
B . Acudyne 255 (41%) 12.50
C . Dymel HFC-152a 12.50
P rocedure : P repare phase A . Then add phase B w i t h s t i r r i n g , M i x u n t i l
s o l u t i o n i s s l i g h t l y t u r b i d b u t a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d . Add Dhase C .
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : C loud p o i n t : <-22F
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0389 sugges ted by Rohm & Haas Co. (PF-051)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products 205
80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I n q r e d i e n t s : SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water
Omni rez-2000 D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l Lauramide DEA Ammonium H y d r o x i d e MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e P ropane / I sobu tane b l e n d (A-70)
AMP-95
% bv Weigh t 57,00 11 .13
0 . 3 7 16.00
0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0 0 .10 0 .20
15 .00
V a l v e : P r e c i s i o n Aquasol Stem: 2 x 0 .20 " Body : .023" V.Tap: N/A-chamber 2 X 0 .10 " I D T u b i n g : 0 .060" A c t u a t o r : P r e c i s i on O r i f i c e : 0.016" C02
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0379 sugges ted b y ISP (10250-18-1)
80% VOC Single Phase Hydrocarbon Aerosol Hair Spray
Ingr ed i en t s : SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water
Omni rez-2000 D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l Laurami de DEA Ammoni um H y d r o x i de MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e D i m e t h y l E t h e r
AMP-95
Val ve : Seaqui s t ST-74 Stem: 0 .01 8" Body : c a p i l l a r y ( u n d e r development) V.Tap: 0 . 0 1 3" I D T u b i n g : 0 .030" A c t u a t o r : ST-150 M i s t y O r i f i c e : 0 .020"
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0380 sugges ted by I S P ( 1 0250-1 8-2)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
% by Weight 37 .00 11 - 1 3
0 . 3 7 16.00 0 .10 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0
3 5 . 0 0
206 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
55% VOC Innovative Product Formulation
I n g r e d i e n t s : L o v o c r y l 47
Monamid 716 V a r i o n CADG LS DC 556 P u r c e l l i n O i 1 D e i o n i z e d Water E t h a n o l , SDA-40 F rag rance n-Butane D i m e t h y l e t h e r
AMP-95
I b y Weight 1 0 . 0 0
1 . 7 3 0 .15 0 .10 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 5 7 .77
5 0 . 0 0
12 .00 18 .00
q . s .
P rocedure :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. When s o l u t i o n i s comp le te , add remai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1 t e r and f i l l . Charge cans w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .
V a l v e :
D i s s o l v e AMP-95 i n e t h a n o l and w a t e r . Whi l e mai n t a i n i ng good
S e a q u i s t V a l v e : NS-34 Stem O r i f i c e : 0 . 0 1 3 ” D i p Tube: 0 . 0 4 0 ” Body : Capi 11 a r y Vapor Tap: 0 . 0 1 3 ” A c t u a t o r : Exce l 200 0 . 0 1 3 ” M i s t y
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0352 sugges ted by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Corp. (7879-1221)
Aerosol Finishing Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . SD A l c o h o l 40, 200 p r o o f
D-Panthenol 50P AMP Regu la r F rag rance
% by We igh t 55.16
1 . o o 0 . 7 4 0 .10
B. Luv imer 1OOP 3 .00
C . HFC 152a 40.00
Yo voc: 55%
Procedure : Combine phase A . S p r i n k l e B i n t o A and m ix w e l l . F i 11 i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0399 sugges ted by BASF Corp . (ND538/1)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Corp. : P roduc t F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products 207
80% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray
I n n r e d i e n t s : SD 40 B A l c o h o l
Omni rez-2000 D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l Laurami de DEA 152A HFC p r o p e l l a n t D i m e t h y l E t h e r
V a l v e :
AMP-95
Seaqui s t : ST-74 Stem: 0 . 0 1 0 " Body : c a p i 11 a r y VaporTap : 0 . 0 1 0" I D Tub ing : 0 .030" A c t u a t o r : ST-150 M i s t y O r i f i c e : 0 . 0 2 0 "
% b y Weight 44.36
0 . 4 4 20.00
0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0
1 5 . 0 0 20.00
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0381 sugges ted by ISP (10250-18-8)
55% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray
I n n r e d i e n t s : SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water
Omni rez-2000 D i me th i cone Copol yo1 Lau r ami de DEA Ammoni um H y d r o x i de MEA B o r a t e and M I P A B o r a t e 152 A HFC P r o p e l l a n t D i m e t h y l E t h e r
AMP-95
% b v We igh t 44 .36
4 . 0 6 0 * 44
20 .00 0 .10 0 . 1 0 0 .10 0 . 2 0
3 0 . 0 0 5 .00
Val ve : Seaqui s t : ST-74 Stem: 0 . 0 1 0 " Body : c a p i 11 a r y VaporTap : 0 . 0 1 0 " I D T u b i n g : 0.030" A c t u a t o r : ST-150 M i s t y O r i f i c e : 0 .020"
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0382 suggested by ISP (10250-18-9)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Produc t F o r m u l a r y
Section VIILotions
208
Lotions 209
AHA Moisturizing Lotion
D . I. Water % by Weight
Q .S . t o 100.0 G1 y c e r i n 5 .00 M e t h y l Paraben 0 . 1 5 Ammonyx GA-70 PG 2 .85 Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic 1 5 . 0 Kessco GMS Pure 2 . 5 Kessco IPM 2 . 0 Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l 2 . 0 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 1 . 5 P r o p y l Paraben 0 .01
P r e s e r v a t i ve, C o l o r , F rag rance Q . S . M i x i ng Procedure :
I n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l equ ipped w i t h h e a t i n g , c o o l i n g , and a g i t a t i o n , p r e p a r e t h e wa te r phase by a d d i n g D . I . Water, G l y c e r i n , Me thy l Paraben, and Ammonyx GA-70 PG. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. I n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e p a r e t h e o i l phase b y a d d i n g t o g e t h e r Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic , Kessco GMS Pure, Kessco IPM, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , S t e a r y l A l c o h o l , and P r o p y l Paraben. Heat t o 73-77C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s a t 80-82C. W i t h m i x i n g , s t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . S l o w l y add G l y c o l i c A c i d (70%) a t 30C. M i x we1 1 . Add P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , and F r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 0 - 3 . 5 i f n e c e s s a r y .
G l y c o l i c A c i d (70%) 7 . 0 - 1 0 . 0
AHA Moisturizing Lotion
D. I. Water % by Weight
Q . S . t o 100 .0 M e t h y l Paraben 0 . 1 5 G l y c e r i n 1 . 5 Kessco GMS S.E. /A.S. 2 . 0 Kessco GMS Pure 3 . 5 Kessco C e t y l A1 coho1 1 . 5 Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic 5 . 0 Kessco ICs 1 . 5 G l y c o l i c A c i d (70%) 7 . 2 P r e s e r v a t i ve, C o l o r , F rag rance Q . S . M i x i ng Procedure :
I n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l equ ipped w i t h h e a t i n g , c o o l i n g , and a g i t a t i o n , p r e p a r e t h e w a t e r phase b y a d d i n g D . I . Water , M e t h y l Paraben, and G l y c e r i n . S t a r t m i x i n g and h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. I n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l p r e p a r e t h e o i l phase b y a d d i n g t o g e t h e r Kessco GMS S .E . /A .S . , Kessco GMS Pure, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic , and Kessco ICs. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 77-82C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s a t 80-82C. W i t h m i x i n g , s t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . S l o w l y add G l y c o l i c A c i d (70%) a t 30C. M ix w e l l . Add P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , and F r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 , i f necessa ry .
SOURCE: Stepan Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
210 Cosinetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Aging Day LotionT h i s s o f t , a n t i - a g i n g l o t i o n l e a v e s a n o n - o i l y , g e n t l e a f t e r
f e e l on t h e s k i n . P e n t a v i t i n improves t h e w a t e r r e t e n t i o n and Immucel l makes s k i n smoother and more d e l i c a t e . Item I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei g h t %
1 A ) G l u c a t e DO 2 . 0 0 2 G l u c a t e SS 1 . 5 0 3 Glucam E 20 D i s t e a r a t e 1 . 5 0 4 Promulgen D 1 .50 5 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 3 . 0 0 6 Sesame O i l 1 . o o 7 B) D e i o n i z e d Water 77 .30 8 Phenoni p 0 .30 9 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 0 . 2 0
10 Glucam E 10 3 .00 11 Carbopol 1342 0 . 2 0 12 P e n t a v i t i n 5 .00 13 Immucel l 3 . 0 0 14 C ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 2 0 15 D ) Fragrance-Courage 0/243101 0 . 3 0
P rocedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B) t o phase A ) . W i t h phase C a d j u s t t h e p H t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase D) and s t i r c o l d .
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. C 014.B/09.95
Cationic Lotion with Incroquat Behenyl TMS Due t o t h e s u p e r i o r e m u l s i f y i n g and c o n d i t i o n i ng p r o p e r t i e s
o f I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS, o n l y a few b a s i c i n g r e d i e n t s a r e needed t o f o r m t h i s s t a b l e and e l e g a n t l o t i o n . T h i s l o t i o n a c q u i r e s i t s s o f t , powdery a f t e r f e e l f r o m t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f t h e Behenyl q u a t . I f d e s i r e d , e m o l l i e n t s , p r o t e i n s o r o t h e r such m a t e r i a l s can e a s i l y be added t o t h e f o r m u l a t o enhance t h e appeal o f t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t . I n s r e d i e n t s : Wei e h t % P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water 83 .0 G l y c e r i n 5 . 0 P a r t B: M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 5 . 0 P e t r o l a t u m 2 . 0 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behen t r imon i um M e t h o s u l f a t e
(and ) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 4 . 0 P a r t C : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
P rocedure :
70-75C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-267
Paraben (and ) P r o p y l Paraben 1 . o
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o
Lotions 211
Body Lotion for Sensitive Skin
T h i s p u r e w h i t e and e l e g a n t l o t i o n , w i t h a p l e a s a n t end f e e l , c o n t a i ns D i smut i n-BT and P h y t a l u r o n a t e . T h i s combi n a t i o n r e g e n e r a t e s and p r o t e c t s s e n s i t i v e o r d r y s k i n .
Item I n s r e d i e n t s __ W e i a t ? ? 1 A) Cremophor A6 2 Cremophor A25 3 L u v i t o l EHO 4 P a r a f f i n O i l 5 C e t y l A l c o h o l 6 C u t i n a GMS
7 B) D e i o n i z e d Water 8 Phenoni p 9 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea
10 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 11 P h y t a l u r o n a t e
12 C) D i smut i n-BT
Procedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d .
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : A p p l i c a t i o n N o . C 0 0 4 . D / 0 1 . 9 6
1 . o o 1 - 0 0 7 . 0 0 8 . 0 0 1 . o o 2 . 5 0
7 1 . 7 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 2 0 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
0 . 3 0
Cleansing Lotion
I n g r e d i e e = Wei s h t % A) M i g l y o l 829 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S u c c i n i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 12 .00
I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 5 .00 I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l Cocoate) 5 . 0 0
B ) Hyg rop lex HHG (Hexy lene G l y c o l ( a n d ) G lucose ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Sucrose ( a n d ) Urea ( a n d ) D e x t r i n ( a n d ) A 1 a n i ne (and) G1 u tami c A c i d (and) A s p a r t i c A c i d ( a n d ) Hexy l N i c o t i n a t e ) 5 . 0 0
K e l t r o l F (Xanthan Gum) 0 . 8 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . Water up t o . 1 0 0 . 0 0
F rag rance F l e u r B lanches 0 . 3 0
P r e p a r a t i o n : ( A ) i s hea ted t o 75 degrees C . , (B) i s mixed homogeneously,
b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e , and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . Perfume i s added a t about 35 degrees C .
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 .3U
212 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Botanical Facial Moisturizing Lotion
% by Weight D. I , Water Q . S . t o 100.0 Carbopol 934 0.15 Cyc l ometh i cone 0 . 2 5 G l y c e r i n 3 .50 M e t h y l Paraben 0 . 1 5 Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic 2 . 0 0 Drewpol 3-1 -0 1 .50 P e t r o l a t u m 1 .50 Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l 1 .oo S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . 2 .50 P r o p y l Paraben 0 .10 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0 .25 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0 .10 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1.65 Avocado E x t r a c t 0 . 0 1
M i x i ng Procedure : Combine water and Carbopol 934 w i t h good m i x i n g , a g i t a t e
u n t i l a t h i n s o l u t i o n f r e e o f lumps i s o b t a i n e d . Add n e x t 3 i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Heat t o 165F. Prepare t h e o i l phase by a d d i n g t o g e t h e r Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic , Drewpol 3-1-0, P e t r o l a t u m , Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . , and P r o p y l Paraben. Heat t o 165-17OF. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase ( b o t h a t 165-17OF) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 20 m i n u t e s and t h e n b e g i n t o c o o l w i t h s low a g i t a - t i o n . A t 11OF, add DMDM H y d a n t o i n , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, T r i e t h a n o l - amine, and Avocado E x t r a c t . C o n t i n u e t o cool t o 9OF. A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t pH t o 7 .0 -8 .0 i f n e c e s s a r y . Check v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: Stepan C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Lotions 213
Cationic Lotion
Formula: A : Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i ne Pol y q u a t e r n i urn 10 V a r i s o f t TA-100 B : Adol 52 Adol 62 F i n s o l v TN W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s ( W i t c o ) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) S t a r f o l OS DC F l u i d 345 DC F l u i d 593 Varon i c 63-E-20 V a r o n i c L I - 6 7 C : P r e s e r v a t i v e
% by We igh t
77.25 5 . 0 0 0 . 7 5 1 .50
1 . o o 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 .50 1 . 5 0 1 .50 1 . o o 1 .50 1 . o o 1 .50
q . s .
P rocedure : M i x w a t e r , g l y c e r i n e and P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 10 u n t i l even.
S p r i n k l e i n V a r i s o f t TA-100 w i t h m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and h e a t phase A t o 75-8OC. Heat phase B t o 75-8OC. Add phase A t o phase B . Cool t o 30C w i t h m i x i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e .
Body Lotion: Water in Oil
Formula: O i l Phase: Abi 1-We 09 Abi l -Wax 9800 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) PCL L i q u i d (Dragoco) W h i t e Fonol i ne P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) Water Phase: Water G1 y c e r o l Sodium C h l o r i d e Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
% b y Weight
5 . 0 3 . 0 6 . 0 5 .0 4 . 0 3 . 0
71 . 2 2 . 0 0 . 8 q . s .
214 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cromoist CM-Glucan Lotion with Crodafos CES
T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s Cromo is t CM Glucan and Croda fos CES - two h i g h a c t i v i t y i n g r e d i e n t s t h a t r e f l e c t t o d a y ' s demands f o r t r u l y f u n c t i o n a l p r o d u c t s . C romo is t CM G lucan works b y s t i m u - l a t i n g t h e s k i n ' s r e s i s t a n c e t o o x i d a t i v e s t r e s s and improve i t s l e v e l o f s k i n own f u n c t i o n . C roda fos CES works b y e x h i b i t i n g shear t h i n n i n g , p r o d u c i n g a system t h a t p r o v i d e s b e t t e r o i l d e p o s i t i o n , f a s t e r d e l i v e r y o f a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s , and enhanced a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s . The l o t i o n i t s e l f has a g l o s s y w h i t e t e x t u r e , a l u b r i c i o u s f e e l and q u i c k r u b - i n .
I n n r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % P a r t A : Croda fos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 4 . 0 Crodamol GTCC ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 . 0 C rodaco l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 . 5 Vo lpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0 . 1 Vo lpo S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) 0 . 5
P a r t B : T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (98%) Dei o n i zed Water
0 . 2 8 7 . 7
P a r t C : C romo is t CM-Glucan (Sodium Carboxymethy l 8-Glucan) 1 . o P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and ) Diazo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
Paraben (and ) P r o p y l Paraben 1 . o
pH=5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 5 , 7 0 0 cps+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e TC, 10 rpm I3 25C)
P rocedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 45C w i t h m i x i n g . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C s e p a r a t e l y . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n SC-264
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C.
Lotions 215
Dihydroxyacetone LotionI n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% Phase A : C e t y l D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) 1 . 5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l D ime th i cone
Copo lyo l (and ) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 1 . o O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4 . 0 Isohexadecane 7 . 0 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 0 . 4 Beeswax 0 . 4 Phase 6 : Cyc l ometh i cone 6 . 0 Phase C: Water 72 .9 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 D ihyd roxyace tone 4 . 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . C o l o r Q . S . Phase D : F rag rance Q . S . P rocedure : 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A . Heat t o 85C i n a c l o s e d
2 . Cool t o 40C. 3 . Add t h e Cyc lometh i cone . M i x . 4 . Heat Phase C components t o 40C w h i l e m i x i n g . 5 . Add C t o A/B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l B i s f u l l y
6 . Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . 7 . Homogenize.
k e t t l e w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l a l l waxes a r e d i s p e r s e d .
d i spe rsed .
Isolan DO Lotion O/W Cold Process
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei g h t % Phase A :
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S ) 5 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 5 . 0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 5 . 0 Phase B : Water 7 9 . 0 G l y c e r i n 3 . 0 P r e s e r v a t i ve Q . S . Phase C : Carbomer 1382 0 . 2 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P ) 0 . 8 Phase D: NaOH (10% S o l u t i o n ) a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 Q . S . P rocedure : 1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A and B s e p a r a t e l y . Add B t o A
w i t h o u t m i x i n g . 2 . Homogenize A/B, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e ( 0 . 1 urn. 3 . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 1382 i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r and add t o A/B.
S t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m i n u t e s . 4 . Add D and s t i r f o r f i v e a d d i t i o n a l m i n u t e s . Temperature o f t h e phases A, B, C , D: a r e 20-25C
M e t h y l g l ucose D i o l e a t e ( I s o l an DO) 2 . 0
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
216 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Lotion
A s y n e r g i s t i c c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum and Carbomer i s used t o t h i c k e n and s t a b i l i z e t h i s e l e g a n t c o s m e t i c l o t i o n . The e m o l l - i e n t s i n t h i s f o r m u l a were s e l e c t e d f o r t h e i r m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The e m u l s i f i c a t i o n f o r t h e f o r m u l a i s p r o v i d e d by t h e g l y c e r y l monosteara te and t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e s t e a r a t e ( f o r m e d i n s i t u ) .
I n n r e d i e n t : A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer 934 (Carbopo l 934)
8: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e G l y c e r i n e
W t .%* 0 . 5 0
8 3 . 6 6 0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0 4.00
C: M i n e r a l O i l 4.00 P e t r o l a t u m 0.44 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 1 . 8 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l 0.90 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE (Kessco GMS-SE) 1 . 6 0 C e t y l A c e t a t e ( a n d ) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l
2 . 2 0 D imeth icone, 350 c s 0 . 7 0
( Acet u 1 an )
D: P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure : Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum
a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t and mix u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat P a r t s A+B t o 70-7%. M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+0 w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g s l o w l y and add P a r t D a t 40C o r l o w e r .
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 378
Lotions 217
Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion % by Weight
D , I. Water Q . S . t o 1 0 0 . 0 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0 Me thy l Paraben 0 . 1 5 ProDvl Paraben 0 . 1 0 Carbopol 934 T r i e t h a n o l am G1 y c e t i n Neobee M-20 S t e a r i c A c i d Wecobee S Kessco C e t y l Kessco GMS P
ne (88%)
Tech.
A1 c o h o l r e
0 . 1 5 1 .80 5 . 0 0 6.50 3 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 .46 0 . 1 0
S i l i c o n e DC-200 (200 cps ) 0 . 1 0 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0 . 2 5 M i x i n g P rocedure :
I n t o a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r equ ipped w i t h m i x i n g , h e a t i n g , and c o o l i ng capabi 1 i t i es, add t h e D . I . Water , T e t r a s o d i um EDTA, Me thy l Paraben, P r o p y l Paraben, Carbopol 934, and G l y c e r i n . M i x w i t h v e r y good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t h e r e a r e no lumps. Add T r i e t h a n - o lam ine ( 8 8 % ) . S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 165-17OF. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t - a i n e r , combine Neobee M-20, S t e a r i c a c i d , Wecobee S, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , and Kessco GMS Pure . Heat t o 170-175F. Add t o w a t e r phase and e m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t lOOF, add S i l i c o n e DC-200. A t 9OF, add DMDM H y d a n t o i n . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t p H t o 7 . 8 - 8 . 0 i f necessa ry . Check v i s c o s i t y .
Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion % by weight^
D . I . Water Q . S T t o 1 0 0 . 0 Me thy l Paraben 0 . 1 5 Neobee M - 5 1 0 . 0 0 Kessco GMS-Pure 3 .00 Kessco C e t y l A 1 c o h o l 2 * 00 Wecobee SS 2 . 5 0 B r i j 78 0 .40 P r o p y l Paraben 0.05 S i l i c o n e DC-200 ( 3 5 0 c p s ) 1 . o o DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0 . 2 5 M i x i ng P rocedure :
I n t o a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r equ ipped w i t h m i x i n g , h e a t i n g , and c o o l i ng capab i 1 i t i es, p r e p a r e wa te r phase by a d d i n g D . I. Water and M e t h y l Paraben. S t a r t m i x i n g and h e a t t o 160-165F. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , p r e p a r e o i l phase by a d d i n g Neobee M-5, Kessco GMS-Pure, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , Wecobee SS, B r i j 78, and P r o p y l Paraben. Heat t o 165-17OF. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n o f wa te r phase and s l o w l y add o i l phase. E m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s a t 165-17OF. S t a r t c o o l i n g , A t lOOF, add S i l i c o n e DC-200 and DMDM H y d a n t o i n . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 8 - 8 . 0 i f neces- s a r y . Check v i s c o s i t y ,
SOURCE: Stepan C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
218 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Body Lotion
_ ~ _ _ _ _ Formula : ? b y Weigh t A: Carbopo l 934 0 . 1 5 De ion i zed Water 83 .45 B : Me thy lpa raben 0 . 2 0 P ropy lpa raben 0 . 1 0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 0 . 8 0 D i s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0 G 1 y c e r i n 5 . 0 0 C: C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) 4 .00 S t e a r i c A c i d 2 . 0 0 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e 1 . 5 0 C e t y l A c e t a t e / A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l 0 . 5 0 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 0 .50 D i meth icone 0 . 5 0 C e t y l A1 coho1 0 . 2 0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1 . o o F rag rance c l . s Procedure :
h e a t t o 75C. Comb-ine B i n g r e d i e n t s , add t o A under modera te a g i t a t i o n . S e p a r a t e l y combine C i n g r e d i e n t s , hea t t o 75C. S l o w l y combine C t o A-B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add TEA c o o l i n g w i t h slow a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o o l t o room temp.
P a r t A -D ispe rse Carbopol i n t o w a t e r under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n ,
Cocoa Butter Hand and Body Lotion
Formula : "/.&!L _w_e_.iMLt O i l Phase: G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 1 . 2 8 H y d r o f o l A c i d 1655CG 2 . 0 3 C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) 7 . 5 0 Ado1 52NF 1 . 0 7 L a n o l i n 0 . 5 3 I s o p r o p y l Pa l m i t a t e 0 . 5 7 Cocoa B u t t e r 0 . 5 0 Water Phase: Va ron i c L I -48 1 . 6 0 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 8 9 P ropy lene G1 y c o l 1 . 6 0 D e i o n i z e d Water 82 .43 P r e s e r v a t i v e s : Me thy l Paraberi 0 . 1 0 P r o p y l Paraben 0 . 0 5 Procedure:
Prepare Water and O i l Phases s e p a r a t e l y . Warm each phase t o 80C. B l e n d O i 1 Phase i n t o Water Phase w i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , Cool system w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n t o 40C. B lend i n P r e s e r v a t i v e s . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n t o 35C and add dye and per fume SOURCE: Wi tco C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions 219
Hand and Body Lotion
For mu 1 a : A : Veegum P r o Water G l y c e r i n 8: E r v o l M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) A r l a c e l 165 Synchrowax A w l - C C : A1 1 a n t o i n P r e s e r v a t i ve
% by We igh t
2 .00 70.75
6 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 4.00 5 . 0 0 1 .25
1 . 0 0 q . s .
Procedure :
i n g a t maximum s h e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add g l y c e r i n e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat B t o 75-8OC. Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l c o o l I Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Veegum P r o e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n even a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s .
Heat t h e wa te r t o 70-75C, t h e n s l o w l y add Veegum w h i l e a g i t a t -
Depilatory Lotion
Formula: A : Water Avenel S-150 (PPG-Mazer) Cal c i um H y d r o x i de Me1 ami ne L i t h i um H y d r o x i de B: Macol 124 ( PPG-Mazer) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) C : Water T h i o g l y c o l i c A c i d ( W i t c o )
% by Weight
5 7 . 1 3 . 0 6 .5 3 . 0 2 . 8
6 . 0 7 . 0
1 0 . 0 4 . 6
P rocedure : B l e n d A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat A t o 6 5 C . Premix B i n g r e d i e n t s ,
h e a t i n g t o 65C. Add B t o A w i t h h i g h shear a g i t a t i o n . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n c o o l b a t c h t o 30C. Premix C a t o r be low room temp. and add s l o w l y t o main b a t c h . M a i n t a i n temp. a t 35C d u r i n g t h e a d d i t i o n .
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
220 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Body Lotion A Veegum and C e l l u l o s e Gum c o m b i n a t i o n i s used e f f e c t i v e l y
i n t h i s f o r m u l a t o p r o v i d e e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z a t i o n and v i s c o s i t y c o n t r o l , The c o m b i n a t i o n o f l i q u i d e m o l l i e n t s p r o v i d e s smooth r u b - i n and non-greasy f e e l . S t e a r i c A c i d i s used as a non-greasy o i 1 phase t h i c k e n e r . I n g r e d i e n t : W t .%* A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 - 0 0
C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0 .15 D e i o n i z e d Water 8 0 . 7 5 S i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g A n t i f o a m AF) 0 . 1 0
B: M i n e r a l O i l 5 .00 M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) Lano l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) 4 . 0 0 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3 .OO G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 4 .00 L a n o l i n O i l 2 . 0 0
C: P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . Procedure :
Add t h e Veegum/Cel lu lose Gum d r y b l e n d t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. Add Simeth- i c o n e a t s l o w m i x i n g speed. Heat P a r t A t o 70C and P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Package a t 40C.
Formula No. 370
Dry Touch Emollient LotionVeegum s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n and a d j u s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f
t h i s l o t i o n . The e m o l l i e n t s used f o r t h e s e l o t i o n s were s e l e c t e d f o r t h e i r m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The e m u l s i f i c a t i o n f o r t h e s e f o r m u l a s i s p r o v i d e d by t h e g l y c e r y l monosteara te and t h e t r i - e thano lamine s t e a r a t e ( fo rmed i n s i t u ) .
A :
B:
C :
D:
I n p r e d i e n t : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e - .
Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e G1 y c e r i n M i n e r a l O i l P e t r o l a t u m S t e a r i c A c i d XXX C e t y l A l c o h o l G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE (Kessco GMS-SE) C e t y l A c e t a t e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l
( A c e t u l an) D imeth icone, 350 c s . C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Perfume
W t .%* 0 .50
85.50 0 .10 3.50 3 . 6 0 0 . 4 0 1 .60 0 . 8 0 1 .40
2 . 0 0 0.60 q.s.
Procedure : Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum
a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A and h e a t t o 70-75C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Heat t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-80C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+B and m i x t h o r o u g h l y w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add P a r t 0, m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Formula No. 377 *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions 221
Hand and Body Lotion
Formula: A : G l u c a t e SS Glucamate SSE-20 Modul an S t e a r i c A c i d B l a n d o l M i n e r a l O i l A p r i k o l ( B e l l ) Phenoni p (Fann i ng) 8 : Glucam E-20 Dei o n i zed Water D o w i c i l 200 C: P a c i f i c Sea K e l p E x t r a c t Chamomile E x t r a c t Hawai an W h i t e G inger E x t r a c t Fragrance 5-5390 ( B e l l )
% by Wei ght
1 .oo 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 3 .00 3 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
5 .00 81 . O O
0 . 2 0
0 .25 0 . 2 5 0 .25 0 . 3 0
Premix Tween 20 0 . 5 0
Procedure :
t o 45C. Add B o t a n i c a l s and F r a g r a n c e . S t i r t o 30C and package. Heat Phases A and B t o 85C. Add B t o A a t 85C. S t i r and c o o l
Rehydrating Body Lotion
Formula: A : Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Methy lparaben Propy lparaben P r o p y l ene G l y c o l Carbopol 940 2% i n Water B: C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) S t e a r i c A c i d XXX A l d o MS ( G l y c o ) F l u i l a n L i p o n a t e GC F i n s o l v TN B u t y l Paraben C : T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% D : Aloe-Moi s t ( T e r r y )
% by Weight
60.68 0 . 0 4 0 . 1 6 0 . 0 8 4 . 0 0 5 . 6 0
5 .60 2.00 2.40 0 . 4 0 2 . 4 0 0 . 0 4 0 . 0 4
0 . 8 0
15.00
Procedure :
Cool t o 55C and add 0. Cool t o 30C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Add B a t 80C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and s t i r 15 m i n u t e s a t 80C.
222 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Body Lotion
A non - tacky , m o i s t u r i z i n g hand and body l o t i o n w i t h n a t u r a l s k i n f e e l , c o n t a i n i n g C l a r i s k i n f o r e l i m i n a t i n g brown age s p o t s . I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water
- 36w/w
78 .90 2 . D isod ium EDTA 0 . 1 0 3 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer) 0 .20 4 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 0 . 8 0 5 . G l y c e r i n e 5 . 0 0 6 . Me thy lpa raben 0 . 2 0 7. P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0 .10 8 , M i n e r a l O i 1 (Drake01 -21 ) 4 .00 9 . S t e a r i c A c i d 2 . 0 0 1 0 . R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 1 . 5 0 11 .R i tawax ALA ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 0 . 5 0 12 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A1 c o h o l ) 0 . 5 0
1 4 . R i t a s i l 190 (D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ) 0 . 5 0 15 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 5 0 1 6 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeas t E x t r a c t ) 5 .00 Compounding P rocedure :
M i x i t e m s 4-7 and add t o t h e combined i t e m s 1-3, t h a n h e a t t o 65C. M i x i t e m s 8-14 and h e a t t o 65C. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase. H o l d t e m p e r a t u r e a t 65C and add i t e m 15. Cool t o 40C and add i t e m 16.
1 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 . 2 0
D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n t o t h e w a t e r u n t i l u n i f o r m and add i t e m 2 .
R e f . No. 122-888
Hand Lotion
A non-greasy hand l o t i o n des igned f o r normal s k i n . I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 ( L i g h t ) 3 .00 2 . S t e a r i c A c i d 2 .50
4 . Ri tawax ALA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e and A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A1 c o h o l ) 0 . 7 5
5 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .50 6 . P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0 . 0 5 7 . A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer) 0 .10 8 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 81 - 8 5 9 . Me thy lpa raben 0 .10 10 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50%) 0 . 6 5 11 . P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 3 .50 1 2 . F r a g r a n c e q . s . 13. Tens i ne (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 5 . 0 0 Compounding P rocedure :
h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 1-6 and h e a t t o 70C. Add i t e m s 10 and 11 t o w a t e r . Add o i l t o w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g . Add i t e m s 12 and 1 3 .
SOURCE: R , I , T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 .00
S l o w l y add i t e m 7 t o i t e m 8 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 9 and
R e f . No. 122-2A
Lotions 223
Hand & Body Lotion For mu 1 a : % by Weigh t A : D e i o n i z e d Water 72 .15 B : Po l yso rba te -20 2 . 0 0 Me thy lpa raben 0 . 2 0 E t h y l paraben 0 . 1 5 C : G1 y c e r i n 3 . 0 0 Xanthan Gum 0 . 1 2 D: Sesame O i l 4 .00 C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) 1 . o o G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e 3 . 0 0 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e 2 . 0 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l 1 . 0 0 M i n e r a l O i 1 and Lano l i n A1 coho1 (Amerchol ) 3 . 0 0 D ime th i cone 0 .50 BHA 0 . 0 5 Methocel 40-100 0 . 1 0 V i t a m i n E O i l 0 . 0 1 S t e a r i c A c i d 1 . 5 0 E : Dei o n i zed Water 1 . 5 0 D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0 F: Dei o n i zed Water 1 . o o Col 1 agen 0 . 0 1 E l a s t i n 0 . 0 1 G : F rag rance 0 . 1 0 P rocedure :
Heat A t o 70-8OC. Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and warm. Add t o A a t 75-80C, combine C i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x w e l l t o p re -we t xan than . Add t o A . Weigh D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o s t e a m - j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and h e a t t o 80C. Add t o w a t e r phase. T u r n h e a t o f f and m i x e m u l s i o n down t o 45C. P repare E, add t o b a t c h a t 45C. Add F a t 45C. Add G t o e m u l s i o n .
Light Conditioning Hand Lotion Formula: % by Weiaht A : G1 ucqua t 100 1 . 0
Dei o n i zed Water 84 .0 B : G l u c a t e SS 0 . 8
Gl ucamate SSE-20 1 . 2 A c e t u l a n 2 . o G l y c e r y l Monos tea ra te 0 . 5 C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) 7 . 5 Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
D i s s o l v e G luqua t 100 i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 70C. I n s e p a r a t e P rocedure :
v e s s e l , combine B and h e a t t o 70C w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add A t o B and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o room temp- e r a t u r e w i t h m i x i n g . SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
224 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Incroquat Behenyl TMS Lotion
T h i s b a s i c f o r m u l a t i o n shows how I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS can f o r m a s t a b l e and e l e g a n t , y e t s i m p l e , e m u l s i o n . The s o f t / p o w d e r y f e e l i t c o n f e r s on t h e s k i n i s due t o t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f t h e beheny l q u a t .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei n h t % P a r t A : I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behen t r imon ium M e t h o s u l f a t e (and ) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . 0 0
Crodamol GTCC ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 .00 D ime th i cone 200 (200 c p s ) 1 . 0 0 Vo lpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0 .10 Vo lpo S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) 0 . 5 0
P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water 77 .40
P a r t C : Dei o n i zed Water 5 . 0 0 H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000 ( H y d r o l y z e d Whole Wheat P r o t e i n ) 1 .oo P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l -
paraben (and ) and P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1 .oo Crodasome CM-Glucan (Sodium Carboxymethy l B-Glucan) 1 . 0 0 I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA (Acetamide MEA (and) Lac tamide MEA) 5 .00
pH=4.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 9 , 0 0 0 cps+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e #TC, 10 rpm, 25C)
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. P rocedure :
Heat P a r t B t o 75-80C. Add P a r t A t o B w i t h m i x i n g . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 50C and add P a r t s C and D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Croda, I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-268
Lotions 225
High SPF-30 LotionCold Process
A c t i v e I n g r e d i e n t s : O c t y l Methoxyc innamate 3% O c t y l S a l i cy1 a t e 3% T i t a n i um D i o x i d e 2%
I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and ) C e t y l D ime th i cone
Copo lyo l (and ) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) Cyc lometh i cone O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Po l ydecene C e t y l D ime th i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l Me thoxyc i nnamate O c t y l Sa l i c y l a t e
Phase B : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l ose T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (40% aq . d i s p e r s i o n ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s F rag rance C o l o r
Wei n h t %
5 . 0 0 3.00 3.00 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 . o o 3 . 0 0 3.00
68.40 0.80 0 . 8 0 5 . 0 0
Q . S . Q.S. Q . S .
Procedure : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f t h e
a g i t a t i n g w a t e r phase. A l l o w t h e c e l l u l o s e t o f u l l y h y d r a t e p r i o r t o a d d i n g t h e sodium c h l o r i d e . Add T i 0 2 (40% aq. d i s p e r s i o n ) . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s .
3 . Add Phase B s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . 4 , Homogeni ze. 5 . Fragrance and c o l o r can be added upon f o r m i n g t h e e m u l s i o n .
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical C o r p , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
226 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Low pH Glycolic Acid Lotion with 18-8 Glycyrrhetinic Acid Phytosome
An AHA l o t i o n c o n t a i n i n g L i p 0 F r u i t A c i d Complex f o r s o f t e r smoother s k i n and 18-6 G l y c y r r h e t i n i c A c i d Phytosome wh ich s h o u l d make t h i s more a c c e p t a b l e t o s e n s i t i v e s k i n .
Sequence : -__ Raw M a t e r i a1 : Wt% 1 Dei o n i zed Water 52 I 65 1 Hypan QT-100 (1% g e l ) 0 . 2 0 1 Benzy l A l c o h o l 0 . 5 0 1 FG-10 A n t i foam S i meth i cone Emu1 s i on 0 .10
2 L i pona te NPGC-2 2 L i p o c o l C 2 L i pomul s e 165 2 DC S i l i c o n e 200/350 c t s . 2 Lipowax D
5 . 0 0 1 . 7 5 5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 3 . 0 0
3 L i p o n i c E G - 1 6 . 0 0 3 18-8 G l y c y r r h e t i n i c A c i d Phytosome 0 . 5 0
4 L i p 0 F r u i t A c i d Complex 5 . 0 0
P rocedure : 1 . I n main k e t t l e , combine Sequence #1 i n g r e d i e n t s under homoge-
2 . I n a u x i l i a r y k e t t l e , combine Sequence #2 i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t
3 . A t p r o p e r tempera tu re , add combined Sequence #2 t o Sequence #1
n i z e r and h e a t t o 75C.
t o 80C.
under homogenizer and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize u n t i l e r n u l s i f i - c a t i o n i s comp le te and a l l Hypan Gel p a r t i c l e s a r e n o t v i s i b l e . Beg in t o c o o l and s w i t c h t o l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g .
u n t i l d i s s o l v e d and b a t c h i s u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep b l a d e a t l o w speed.
4 . Cool t o 40C and add p remixed Sequence #3 i n t o b a t c h mix
5 . A t 25C, add Sequence # 4 i n t o b a t c h . 6 . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 8 - 4 . 1 w i t h a p p r o p r i a t e b u f f e r .
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemica ls I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 891
Lotions 227
A :
B :
Moisturizing LotionI n g r e d i e n t : W t .%*
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( L e x o l IPM) 1 - 0 0 G l v c o l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul EGMSl 0 .50 M i n e r a l O i l A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A1 coho1 C e t y l A l c o h o l S t e a r i c A c i d Cyc lometh i cone P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P ) S o r b i t o 1 , 70% Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% t o p H Carbomer 934 Me thy lpa raben (Lexgard M) Dei o n i zed Water
S i 1 i c a t e 7 . 0
0 . 5 0 1 . o o 1 . o o 1 - 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 0 5 4 . 0 0 0 .30
0 . 2 0 0 . 1 5
87.80
9.s .
P rocedure :
m i x i n g w i t h a homogenizer a t 5000 rpm. Add t h e Veegum s l o w l y and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . A d d t h e S o r b i t o l and M e t h y l Paraben and m i x each f o r 3 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Add t h e Carbomer 934 and m i x f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and mix f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 70C. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o p roduce a s m a l l v o r t e x , and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, measure t h e pH and a d j u s t t o 7 . 0 u s i n g T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and package a t 35C.
Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70C w h i l e
Collagen LotionThe Veegum/Rhodigel m i x t u r e s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n and
a d j u s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s c o l d p r o c e s s l o t i o n . The l o t i o n p r o v i d e s an e l e g a n t f e e l i n b o t h i n i t i a l a p p l i c a t i o n and i n t h e r e s i d u a l f i l m .
A :
B:
C:
D :
I n q r e d i e n t : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e
W t .%* 1 - 0 0
R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 . 5 0 D e i o n i z e d Water 76.25 G1 y c e r i n 6 . 0 0 S o l u b l e C o l l a g e n ( C o l l a s o l ) 5 . 0 0 A1 1 a n t o i n 0 .25 Hydrogenated Po l y i s o b u t y l ene (Po l y s y n l ane) 4 .00 M i n e r a l O i l ( and ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) 3 . 0 0 C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l E s t e r s (Super S t e r o l
E s t e r ) 2 . 0 0 DEA-Oleth-3 Phosphate (Croda fos N-3 N e u t r a l ) 1 . o o D ime th i cone , 350 c s . (Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ) 1 . o o P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s .
Procedure : Dry b l e n d Veegum and Rhod ige l and add them t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e
a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. Add P a r t B i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+B. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o , , I n c . : Fo rmu las : I n o l e x Chernical /#381
228 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing LotionI n q r e d i e n t : W t .%* A : P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a l a u r a t e 5 .00
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e 5 .00 M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 5 0 A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l 1 .00 D i met h i cone 1 . o o S t e a r i c A c i d 1 .oo S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 0 . 5 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l 0 .50
B: D e i o n i z e d Water 78.00 Veegum HV, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 0 .30 Carbomer 934, 3% S o l n . (Carbopo l 934) 5 .00
C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 9945 0.20 P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s .
Procedure : Prepare t h e 3% Carbomer s o l u t i o n i n accordance w i t h t h e manu-
f a c t u r ’ s recommendat ions. Weigh t h e P a r t B water i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and heat t o 50C. W h i l e m i x i n g t h e water w i t h a homogenizer a t 5000 rpm, s l o w l y add t h e Veegum HV and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75F. Add t h e Carbomer s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r ves- s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and mix f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 75C. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p roduce a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 45C, add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . A t 40C, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and package a t 35c.
Formul a f rom Rhone-Poul enc, I nc .
Silicone Barrier Lotion I n t h i s f o r m u l a , Veegum i s used a l o n g w i t h Rhod ige l Xanthan
Gum t o s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n and a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y . T h i s l o t i o n uses a s i l i c o n e f l u i d t o a c h i e v e an e m o l l i e n t p r o t e c t i v e b a r r i e r w i t h a p l e a s a n t non-greasy f e e l . S t e a r i c A c i d i s used as a non-greasy o i l phase t h i c k e n e r . The Span/Tween c o m b i n a t i o n p r o v i d e s t h e e m u l s i f i c a t i o n f o r t h i s f o r m u l a . L o t i o n v i s c o s i t y i s a d j u s t e d b y chang ing t h e Veegum/Rhodigel l e v e l . I n g r e d i e n t : W t .%* A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 - 0 0
Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum 0.25 Water 80 .75
B : Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g 556 F l u i d ) 5 .00 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 5 . 0 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 (Tween 20 ) 4 .50 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e (Span 20 ) 3 .50
C : P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s . Procedure :
Add t h e Veegum/Rhodigel d r y b l e n d t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t - a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. Heat P a r t A t o 70C. Heat P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and mix whi l e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add P a r t C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Formula No. 374 * As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R , T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions 229
O/W Hand & Body Lotion
A .
B.
C.
D.
E.
I n g r e d i e n t s : G l y c e r y l Monos tea ra te C e t y l A l c o h o l C e t i o l LC S i l i c o n e 200/100 cs Edeta BD Phenon i p Amphisol A
D e i o n i z e d Water AMP Regu la r (10% s o l ' n )
D e i o n i zed Water Pemulen TR-1 1% s o l n P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l
AMP Regu la r (10% s o l ' n )
Perfume O i l
% by Wei Qht 4 . 0 0 1 . o o
10 .00 0 . 5 0 0 . 1 0 0 .60 1 . 5 1
10.00 4 . 0 0
52 .69 10.00
5 . 0 0
0 . 6 0
q . s .
Procedure : Heat p a r t A t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add
p a r t B p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t s C and D p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t E . Compensate f o r w a t e r l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g , w h i l e c o o l i n g t o amb ien t t e m p e r a t u r e .
Remark: b ) Recommended p e r c e n t a g e o f s u i t a b l e d e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d per fume f o r cream 0 . 5 % .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0374E sugges ted by Givaudan-Roure SA
Aculyn 33 Hand Lotion
_- I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water
I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea EDTA Na2 C e t e a r y l g l y c o s i d e I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e Acu lyn 33
B. AMP-95 (10% s o l n . )
P rocedure : M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d .
96 b y Weight t o 100%
0 . 3 0 0 . 1 5
20 .00 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : pH: 7 . 4 V i s c o s i t y ( 6 r p m ) : 12,000 cps F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0388 suggested by Rohm and Haas C o . (PF-034)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r p . : P roduc t Fo rmu la ry
230 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlized Body Lotion
Phase# : 1 Dei o n i zed Water 1 P e a r l e s c e n t P i gment (Rona)
Wt%
2 . 0 0 - 5 . 0 0 q . s .
2 Carbopol 941 0 .40
3 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 3 M e t h y l Paraben
8 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
4 D i s o d i um EDTA 0 . 0 5
5 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 5 Dei o n i zed w a t e r
0 . 6 0 2 . 0 0
6 C r o d e s t a SL40 3 .00
7 M i n e r a l O i l 9Ocs 7 Schercemol 185 7 C r i l l 6 7 P r o p y l Paraben
4 . 0 0
1 . o o 0 .10
8 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 55% 0 . 1 8
9 Fragrance 0 .10
Procedure :
Combine phase 1, h e a t t o 70C. Add phase 2 w h i l e homogeniz ing. Combine phase 3 , add t o b a t c h . Add phase 4 . Combine phase 5, add t o b a t c h . Add phase 6 . Heat t o 75C. Add combined phase 7, m a i n t a i n homogenizer a g i t a t i o n for 1 5 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 45C, add phases 8 , 9 . Cool t o 30C.
Combine phase 7, h e a t t o 80C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous
Rona P e a r l P i gment Combi n a t i ons : EM1 -55-1 T i m i r o n Super Go ld 2%
EM1 -55-2 T i m i r o n Super Red 2%
EM1 -55-3 T i m i r o n Super V i o l e t 2%
EM1 -55-4 T i m i r o n Super B l u e 2%
EM1 -55-5 T i m i r o n Super Green 2%
EM1 -55-6 T i m i r o n Super Copper 2%
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , Inc . : F o r m u l a t i o n EM1-55
Lotions 231
Protective Lotion with Cromoist CM Glucan
T h i s l o t i o n i s i d e a l f o r e v e r y day use due t o t h e p r o t e c t i v e e f f e c t s o f C romo is t CM Glucan on t h e s k i n and i s e s p e c i a l l y b e n e f i c i a l b e f o r e and a f t e r exposure t o t h e sun . By s t i m u l a t i n g t h e s k i n ’ s own d e f e n s e mechanisms, t h e p o w e r f u l p r o t e c t a n t and t h e r a p e u t i c agen t i s a b l e t o i n c r e a s e t h e s k i n ’ s r e s i s t a n c e t o UV-A i n d u c e d o x i d a t i v e s t r e s s and o t h e r e n v i r o n m e n t a l i n s u l t s . C roda fos CES i s a u n i q u e c o n d i t i o n i n g and e m u l s i f y i n g system t h a t enhances t h e p r o t e c t i v e and e m o l l i e n t e f f e c t s o f t h e l o t i o n b y p r o m o t i n g b e t t e r d e l i v e r y o f C r o m o i s t CM Glucan and Crodamol PMP, t h e e m o l l i e n t e s t e r used t o reduce t h e g r e a s i n e s s o f t h e p e t r o l a t u m .
I n Q r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % P a r t A : Croda fos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 4 . 0 Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y 1 E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) 5.0 P e t r o l a t u m 2 . 0
P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (98%)
P a r t C : Dei o n i zed Water Col 1 a s o l ( S o l u b l e Col 1 agen)
7 5 . 8 0 . 2
5 . 0 1 . o
P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l U rea (and ) M e t h y l -
paraben (and ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1 . o C romo is t CM-Glucan (Sodium Carboxymethy l B-Glucan) 1 . o I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA (Acetamide MEA (and ) Lauramide MEA) 5 . 0
pH=4.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 6 , 0 0 0 cps+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e # TC @ 10 r p m @ 25C)
P rocedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A t o B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C and D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-266
232 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Rain Forest Lotion with Cronatural Brazil Nut Oil T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n produces a s h i n y w h i t e , pumpable l o t i o n w i t h
e x c e l l e n t r u b - i n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and d r i e s q u i c k l y t o a v e r y c o n d i t i o n e d s o f t n e s s . C r o n a t u r a l B r a z i l Nut O i l i m p a r t s a d r y e m o l l i e n t f e e l w i t h o u t a h i n t o f o i l i n e s s . I n g r e d i e n t s : WtSb P a r t A : I n c r o m i n e BB (Behenamidopropyl D imethy lamine) 3 . 0 C r o d a c i d B (Behen ic A c i d ) 2 . 5 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 1 5 . 0 C r o n a t u r a l B r a z i l Nut O i l 5 . 0 P a r t 8 : Dei o n i zed Water 73 .5 P a r t C : Propy lene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and) m e t h y l
paraben (and) p r o p y l paraben* 1 . o pH: 7 . 5 t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3,000 cps+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e # 5 , 50 rpm (3 25C)
Procedure : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-85C.
Heat P a r t B t o 80-85C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temp- e r a t u r e .
*Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n Labs) N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-245
Dihydroxyacetone LotionPhase A : w A b i l EM-90 1 . 5 Abi 1 WE-09 1 . o A b i l B 8839 6 . 0 T e g o s o f t OS 4 . 0 Isohexadecane 7 . 0 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 0 . 4 Beeswax 0 . 4 Phase B : Water 72 .9 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 .8 D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e 4 . 0 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q . S . C o l o r Q.S. Phase C : F r a g r a n c e Q.S. Procedure : 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A . Heat t o 85C i n a c l o s e d
2 . Cool t o 40C. 3 . Heat Phase B components t o 40C w h i l e m i x i n g . 4 . Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l B i s f u l l y
5 . Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Homogenize. SOURCE : Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i on
k e t t l e w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l a l l waxes a r e d i s p e r s e d .
d i spersed.
Lotions 233
Skin Firming Lotion
A l i g h t s k i n l o t i o n c o n t a i n i n g R a f f e r m i n e t o enhance t h e f i r m n e s s o f t h e s k i n .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . S t e a r i c Ac id 2 . Soy G l y c e r i d e s 3 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 and Pol y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 4 . Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s 5 . Me thy lpa raben 6 . P r o p y l paraben 7 . C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 10 . M e t h y l G1 uce th -20 11 . P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1 2 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 13.TEA (50%)
%w/w 3 . 1 0 3 . 1 0 1 . 2 0 2 . 5 0 0 . 1 5 0 .05 1 . 5 0
79 .10 0 . 1 5 3 . 0 0 3 . 2 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
Compounding P rocedure :
11 . Heat t o 70C w h i l e d i s p e r s i n g i t e m 9 . Add o i l t o w a t e r . Add TEA and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m 12 .
Combine i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 8, 10 and
R e f . No. 121-125
Facial Moisturizing Lotion
E l e g a n t m i n e r a l o i 1 and 1 a n o l i n based emu1 s i on f o r m u l a t e d w i t h P o l y q u t a t o add s u b s t a n t i v i t y t o t h e s k i n and R i t a s i l 190 f o r p l e a s a n t s k i n f e e l i n g .
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a p r o - 1 6 5 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10
M i n e r a l O i l L a n o l i n USP ( R . I . T . A . X - t r a Deo) R i t a p r o 100 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) R i t a s i l 190 (D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ) D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Pol y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 ) G1 y d a n t
. F r a g r a n c e - L i g h t Musk 169-119
4 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 .50 1 - 5 0 0 . 4 0
81.70 6 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 2 0
Cornpoundi ng P rocedure :
S e p a r a t e l y h e a t i t e m s 1-5 t o 70C. Add t h i s m i x t u r e t o w a t e r m i x t u r e . M i x t o u n i f o r m and c o o l t o 40C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and per fume.
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
D i s s o l v e P o l y q u t a 3000 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 7 and h e a t t o 70C.
R e f . No. 121-89
234 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Therapeutic Hand & Body Lotion
Raw M a t e r i a1 : W t % (as - . i s ) 1 . D . I . Water Q . S . t o 100.00 2 . M e t h y l Paraben 0 . 1 5 3. G l y c e r i n e 3.5 4 . B r i j 78 0 . 4 5 . O c t y l I sononanoa te 10 .0 6 . Kessco GMS 3 . 0 7 . Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l 2 . 0 8 . Wecobee S 2 . 5 9 . P r o p y l Paraben 0 .01 1 0 . S i l i c o n e 200 (350 c p s ) 1 . o 11 . G I y d a n t 0 . 2 5 1 2 , C i t r i c Ac id 50% Q . S . l B . F r a g r a n c e , C o l o r Q.S.
P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: Opaque L o t i o n pH @ 25C: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
M i x i ng P rocedure :
o i l phase b y a d d i n g 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 and 9. Heat t o 70C. Add o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n . M i x a t 70C f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a - t i o n . A t 45C, add 10 and 11. A d j u s t pH i f necessa ry . Cool t o ambient t e m p e r a t u r e .
P repare w a t e r phase by a d d i n g 1,2 and 3. Heat t o 70C. P repare
Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion
D . I. Water G1 y c e r i n Ammonyx 4 P e t r o l a t u m Kessco IPP S i l i c o n e DC-200 (350 c p s ) Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l P o t a s s i um C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d (50%) P r e s e r v a t i ve
% b y Weight Q . S . t o 100.0
4 . 0 0 18.40
4.00 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 2 - 0 0 0 .40
Q . S . Q . S .
M i x i n g P rocedure : I n t o a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r equ ipped w i t h m i x i n g , h e a t i n g , and
c o o l i n g c a p a b i l i t i e s , add t h e D . I . Water , G l y c e r i n , and Ammonyx 4 . S t a r t m i x i n g and h e a t i n g t o 155-16OF. A t 155-160F, add P e t r o l - atum, Kessco IPP, S i l i c o n e DC-200, and Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l . M i x w e l l f o r 20 m i n u t e s , k e e p i n g h e a t a t 160F. S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A t lOOF, p r e m i x p o t a s s i u m c h l o r i d e w i t h s m a l l amount o f D . I . Water and add t o t h e b a t c h . A t 9OF, add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t p H t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 i f necessa ry w i t h c i t r i c a c i d (50%) . SOURCE: Stepan Co,: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions 235
Under Make-Up Lotion
A non-greasy , p r o t e c t i v e day cream c o n t a i n i n g Tens ine and Reduc t ine t o f i r m t h e s k i n and h e l p reduce f i n e l i n e s .
-~ I n s r e d i ents:. 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . Ce tea re th -25 3 . R i t a I P P ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 (Ceteary ! A l c o h o l and P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 5 . Me thy lpa raben 6 . P ropy lpa raben 7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 . P ropy lene G l y c o l 9 . Tens i ne (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 10 .Reduc t ine (Oat P r o t e i n ) 11.TEA (99%) 1 2 . F rag rance
%J'/ 8 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 * 20 0 .10
62 .50 5 . 0 0 6.00 5 . 0 0
0 . 2 0 q.s.
Compounding P rocedure : Combine i t e m s 1 - 6 and hea t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 8 and 9 arid
h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l t o wa te r and m i x . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C and add i t e m s 9-12 .
R e f . No. 120-195
Under Make-Up Lotion
A non-greasy , p r o t e c t i v e day cream c o n t a i n i n g Tens ine and Reduc t ine t o f i r m t h e sk . in and h e l p reduce f i n e l i n e s .
- I m e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . Ce tea re th -6 and S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 3 . R i t a I P P ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 5 . Me thy lpa raben 6 . P ropy lpa raben 7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 . P ropy lene G l y c o l 9 . Tens ine (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 1 0 . Reduc t i ne (Oat P r o t e i n ) 1 1 . T E A (99%) 12 .F rag rance
.~ % W A 8 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
and P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 5 .00 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0
62 .50 5 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
0 .20 q . s .
Compounding P rocedure : Combine i t e m s 1-6 and hea t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 8 and 9 and
h e a t t o 7OC. Add o i l t o wa te r and m i x . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C and add i t e m s 9-12.
R e f . No. 120-196
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
256 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water-in-Oil Moisturizing Lotion
Formula: % by WeIghtA:Veegum 1 .3Water 55.7Magnesium Sulfate 0.5B:Carnation Mineral Oil (Witco) 9.0Polysynlane 10.0Ni mlesterol D 7.5Amerchol L101 9.070% Sorbitol Solution 5.0Witcamide 511 2.0
Preservative q.s.
Procedure:Add Veegum to water slowly, agitating continually u n t i l
smooth. Add magnesium sulfate and mix u n t i l smooth. Blend B andadd A to B. Mix until smooth and uniform. This formula is arich, pourable or pumpable lotion and may be dispensed froma suitable glass or plastic bottle.
Facial Lotion
Formul a : %_by WeightWater Phase:Water q.s. to 100Triethanolamine 0.2Oi1 Phase:Carnation Mineral Oil (Witco) 4.0Steari c Aci d 1.0Naturechem GMHS (CasChem) 2.5Lanoli n Oi1 2.0Imidazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben 0,2Fragrance O,3
Procedure:Heat both phases to 75C. Add oil phase to water phase with
high speed m i x i n g . Allow to cool and continue m i x i n g to 35C;add preservative and fragrance; mix thoroughly.
SOURCE: Witco Corp,: Suggested Formulations
Lotions 237
W/O Lotion, EO-free with Softisan 649
I n a r e d i e n t s : Wei a h t % A . M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 8 . 0 0
M i g l y o l 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l / D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 8 . 0 0 S o f t i san 649* 5 .00 A r l a c e l 1689 ( P o l y g l y c e r i n (and) S o r b i t o l ) 4 . 0 0 A r l a m o l HD ( I sohexadecane) 3 . 0 0
B . Magnesium S u l p h a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e Water , ad
2 . 0 0
100 .00 q . s .
C . F rag rance q . s .
* B i s-Di g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2
P r e p a r a t i on : A i s h e a t e d up a t abou t 75C. 6 i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . A i s e m u l s i f i e d w i t h an homogenizer i n t o A . C i s added a t 30C. F o r m u l a t i o n HUK WOL
New "Light Lotion" with Imwitor 375
I n q r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % A . M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 1 6 . 2 5
01 e a t e ) 3 .00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e /
6 . N a t r o s o l P l u s 330 CS P r e s e r v a t i v e Wate r , ad
0 . 7 5
1 0 0 . 0 0 q . s .
C . F rag rance q . s .
P r e p a r a t i on : I n g r e d i e n t s of A a r e h e a t e d t o abou t 70C. To b u i l d phase B N a t r o s o l i s d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r and s t i r r e d t o homogenei t y . Then B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d and t h e n C i s added. F o r m u l a t i o n HUK LL
SOURCE: H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
238 Cosmetic and 7ililrtry Fontidations
2% AHA Low Viscosity Lotion with Uninontan U-34
An AHA L i p 0 F r u i t A c i d l o t i o n w i t h Un inon tan U-34 and Gorg- o n i a n E x t r a c t t o p r o v i d e an even s k i n t o n e and h e l p m i n i m i z e s k i n i r r i t a t i o n . T h i s f o r m u l a a l s o c o n t a i n s a ba lanced emuls- i f i e r sys tem f o r e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and a v a r i e t y o f e m o l l i e n t s / m o i s t u r i z e r s f o r s k i n s o f t n e s s .
Seque n ge R_ay Mater1 a1 : 1 Dei on1 zed Water 1 Uniphen P-23 1 L i p o n i c EG-1
2 K e l t r o l 2 Veegum
U l t r a p u r e L L i p 0 GMS 450 L ipopeg 6000 DS Lipowax G Lipowax P L i p o c o l C L i pona te NPGC-2 L i p o v o l SAF L iDovo l SES
w.ei PI-! % 7 6 . 6 4
0 . 5 0 1 . 5 0
0 . 2 5 0 . 1 5
1 . 5 0 1 .50 1 . 7 5 0 . 2 5 0 . 4 5 1 . o o 4 . 0 0 0.50 0 . 5 0
4 Uni non tan U-34 5 . 0 0
5 Gorgon ian E x t r a c t 6 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99%
0.50 QS *
k To a d j u s t pH
Procedure : 1 . M ix Sequence # 1 t o g e t h e r w i t h overhead m i x e r w h i l e h e a t i n g
t o 78C. 2 . Dry m i x Sequence #2 t o g e t h e r and add s l o w l y t o Sequence # 1
w i t h medium/high a g i t a t i o n . (Mix w e l l u n t i l b o t h gums a r e c o m p l e t e l y hydrated/homogeneous.)
3 . M i x Sequence #3 t o g e t h e r and h e a t t o 78C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and add t o b a t c h . (Coo l t o 55C, p l a c e on sweep b l a d e and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o 45C) .
and add t o b a t c h u s i n g sweep b l a d e a t l o w speed. Lower t e m p e r a t u r e t o 4 0 C .
4 . A t 45C, p remix Sequence # 4 t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e
5 . A t 40C, add Sequence #5 t o t h e b a t c h . 6 . Cool down t o 25C and remove f r o m m i x e r . 7 . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 8 - 4 . 2 w i t h Sequence #6 .
S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : pH: 4 . 0 + - 0 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 6 , 7 0 0 cps+-10% LVT #4 @ 30rpm
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemica ls I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No, 936
Section Vlll Shampoos
239
240 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formillations
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Suspending Sulfur with Ritavena 5
Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e D i s t i 11 ed Water P a t i o n i c ISL /85 E t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e Cocamide DEA P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l NaCl (25% S o l u t i o n ) L a c t i c A c i d (44%) F l o w e r s o f S u l f u r R i t a v e n a 5
Wt% 51 - 7 0 28 .30 3.00 3.00 4 .50 2.00 1 . o o QS
2.00 4.50
p H : 7 . 5 5 V i s c o s i t y : 15,800 cps S t a b i 1 i t y :
Freeze/Thaw: v . sl . p r e c i p . a f t e r 2 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks
11OF: s l i g h t s e p a r a t i o n b u t s u l f u r s t a y s Foam T e s t i ng : Foam H20
0 . 0 m i n u t e 31 0 80 1 . O m i n u t e 31 0 1 0 0 3 . 0 m i n u t e 295 100
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 1 2 - 1 2 0 - 8
Children's Conditioning Shampoo
Mackadet BSC Mackalene 426 Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM Water , Dye, F rag rance qs t o
W S 2 5 . 0
3 . 0 1 . 5 qs
1 0 0 . 0
P rocedure : 1 . Add f i r s t two components t o wa te r and h e a t t o 40 degrees C . 2 . B l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care F o r m u l a r y : Formula
Shampoos 241
Antidandruff Shampoo
A : Water Veegum, Magnesi um Alumi num S i 1 i c a t e
B: Cocobeta i ne Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e D i s o d i um Oleamido PEG-2 Su l f o s u c c i n a t e
Wt%
47 .0 0 . 5
6 . 0 2 5 . 0 1 5 . 0
C : D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and ) Me thy lpa raben (and)
P ropy lpa raben (and ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Germaben 11) 1 . o Hyd r o x y p r o p y l Guar 0 . 5 Cocamide DEA 3 . 0 Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e 2 . 0
D : Dye, f r a g r a n c e q . s .
Procedure: S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e w a t e r u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r .
A l l o w t o f u l l y d i s p e r s e and h y d r a t e under c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g f o r a minimum o f 15 m i n u t e s . B l e n d B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o A w i t h c o n t i n - uous s t i r r i n g f o r 5 m i n u t e s . I n s e p a r a t e k e t t l e d i s p e r s e guar and cocamide DEA i n Germaben 1 1 . B l e n d i n z i n c p y r i t h i o n e . When u n i f o r m add A + B t o C . Add dye and f r a g r a n c e . No h e a t i s r e q u i r e d .
Formula f r o m ISP S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s
Moisturizing Antidandruff Shampoo
Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , 30% Po tass ium Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n (Maypon Cocamide DEA P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e , 48% Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e M e t h y l Paraben ( L e x g a r d M) P r o p y l Paraben (Lexgard P ) Water
Wt% 25.00
4c 1 10.00 1 .oo 3 .00 4 .50 1 . o o 1 . 2 0 0 . 1 5 0 . 0 5
q . s . t o 100
Procedure :
r e m a i n i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m ix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o 40C. T y p i c a l p r o p e r t i e s : pH 6 . 7 . V i s c o s i t y a t 24C: 2925 c p s . T h i c k l a t h e r , s m a l l b u b b l e s .
Heat w a t e r t o 70C. D i s p e r s e me thy l c e l l u l o s e and Veegum. Add
Formul a f ron I no1 ex Chemical Corp.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum Formulas
242 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sequence: 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 4 5 5 6
Clear Shampoo with Microcapsules
Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i zed Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Me thy lpa raben Hampene Na2T L i p o n i c E G - I Hypan SR15OH Carbopol ETD 2020 (2% s o l I n ) D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Standapo l ES-2 Standapo l T L i p o P e a r l Green V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
P e r c e n t 39.60
0 . 2 0 0 . 2 5 0 . 0 5 1 . o o 0 . 1 0
3 0 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 . 8 0
20.00 6 . 0 0 1 . o o
P rocedure : 1 . M i x and h e a t Sequence # I t o 80C w i t h overhead m i x e r a t medium
speed. 2 . Premix i n t o s l u r r y Sequence #2 and add t o Sequence #1 a t 80C
w i t h overhead m i x e r . 3 . Premix Sequence #3 and add t o b a t c h w i t h overhead m i x e r
a t medium speed. 4 . Premix Sequence #4 and add t o b a t c h w i t h overhead m i x e r a t
medi um speed. 5 . A t l ow speed on overhead m i x e r add Sequence # 5 i n o r d e r o f
a d d i t i o n ( k e e p i n g a e r a t i o n t o a minimum). Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep b l ade.
6 . A t 25C s l o w l y add Sequence #6 m i c r o c a p s u l e s u s i n g sweep b l a d e a t low speed.
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemicals I n c . : Formula No. 869
All Natural Shampoo
Mackadet WGS Mackami de LLM Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM EDTA (40%) F rag rance Dei o n i zed Water Q. S .
WtO/o 45.0 1 0 . 0
2.5 Q . S . Q . S . Q . S .
1 0 0 . 0
P rocedure : 1 . Add components t o w a t e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . I f a h i g h e r v i s c o s i t y i s needed, a d j u s t w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care F o r m u l a r y
Shampoos 243
Conditioning Color Enhancer Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Water Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) D i sod i um Cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)
Phase 6 : B a s i c B l u e 99 B a s i c Brown 16 A c i d V i o l e t 43 B a s i c Red 36 B a s i c Ye1 l o w 57
Phase C : Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e E ) D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 8852) F rag rance P r e s e r v a t i ves C i t r i c A c i d PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O lea te /Cocoa te ( A n t i l 171) P rocedure : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . 2 . B l e n d c o l o r s , add t o Phase A . M i x w e l l .
Weight%
20 n 00 20.00 10 .00
1 . 5 0 0 . 5 0
Q . S . Q . S . Q . S . Q . S . Q . S .
38 .40 0 . 1 0 7 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
Q . S . Q . S .
t o pH 6 . 0 2 . 0 0
3 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C t o A/B i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l .
4 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O lea te /Cocoa te
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Co. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
A v o i d foaming . A d j u s t p H t o 6 .0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d .
( A n t i l 1 7 1 ) .
Shampoo-Clear Gel Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei q h t % Carbopol ETD 2020, 1 .5% 77.70 D i s o d i um EDTA 0 .10 Cal foam SLS-30 15.00 Cal foam ES-303 5 .00 Calamide C 2 .00 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . A 1.5% s o l u t i o n i s made b y d i s p e r s i n g t h e Carbopol i n 40C
2 . The d i s p e r s i o n i s s l i g h t l y hazy w i t h g e l - l i k e c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y even a 1% s o l u t i o n wou ld be s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s
4 . The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e Carbopol s o l u t i o n
warm w a t e r and s t i r r i n g .
a p p l i c a t i o n .
and s t i r r e d u n t i l a homogeneous p r o d u c t i s p r e p a r e d .
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-005-01
244 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
T h i s f o r m u l a uses I n c r o q u a t HO-aOPG, a q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n i n g agen t s u i t a b l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h I n c r o m i n e O x i d e C and C r o d a f o s SG t o g i v e h a i r improved wet combing and a s o f t , d r y f e e l . I n c r o q u a t HO-80 PG has been f o u n d t o work e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h p o l y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e Jaguar C14S used h e r e , as i t appears t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s o f t h e s e p o l y q u a t s , r e s u l t i n g i n g r e a t e r c o n d i t i o n i n g .
I n n r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r imon iu rn C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d
P a r t B: SLES ( 3 mo le ) SLS Inc ronam 30 (Cocoamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) I n c r o m i de L R (Laurami de DEA) Croda fos SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate) G1 y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l Cocoate) I n c r o q u a t HO-80PG ( D i o l e o y l ami d o e t h y l H y d r o x y e t h y l -
G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e I n c r o m i n e Ox ide C (Cocamidopropylamine Ox ide )
P a r t C : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (and ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and ) M e t h y l
Hexy l ene G1 y c o l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1
P rocedure :
moni um M e t h o s u l f a t e )
Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben
Weight%
57 .05 0 . 3 5 0 . 1 0
15 .00 5.00 6 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 .oo
2 . 5 0 0.50 2 . 0 0
1 .oo 3 .00 1 . 5 0
Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good m i x i n g . Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A as l i s t e d . Heat b a t c h up t o 70-75C w i t h good m i x i n g . Make sure a l l i n g r e d - i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add P a r t C .
pH=5.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 3 , 0 0 0 cps + - l o % , S p i n d l e #4 @ 10 rpm N.A.T.C. Approved
SOURCE: Croda Inc . : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-96
Shampoos 245
Conditioning Shampoo
T h i s f o r m u l a uses I n c r o q u a t Behenyl HE, a q u a t e r n a r y cond- i t i o n i n g agent s u i t a b l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h I n c r o m i n e Ox ide C and Crodafos SG t o g i v e h a i r improved wet combing and a s o f t , d r y f e e l . I n c r o q u a t Behenyl HE a l s o works e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h p o l y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e Jaguar C14S used h e r e , and has been found t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s o f t h e s e p o l y q u a t s , r e s u l t i n g i n g r e a t e r c o n d i t i o n i n g .
I n n r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d
P a r t 8 : SLES ( 3 m o l ) SLS Incronam 30 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) I n c r o m i n e Oxide C (Cocamidopropylamine O x i d e ) I n c r o m i de LR (Laurami de DEA) Crodafos SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate) G l y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate) I n c r o q u a t Behenyl HE (Behenamidopropyl H y d r o x y e t h y l
D i moni um C h l o r i d e )
Weight%
59.55 0 . 3 5 0 . 1 0
15.00 5 .00 6 .00 2 .00 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 . o o
2.50
P a r t C : Propy lene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
Hexy l ene G1 y c o l 2 . 5 0
Procedure: Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good m i x i n g . Heat P a r t A
i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A as l i s t e d Heat b a t c h up t o 70-75C w i t h good m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add P a r t C .
Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben 1 . o o
pH=5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 1 0 , 0 0 0 + - l o % , S p i n d l e #4 @ 10 rpm. N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-97
246 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
T h i s f o r m u l a uses I n c r o q u a t HO-80 PG, a q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n - i n g agen t s u i t a b l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h I n c r o m i n e Ox ide C and Croda fos SG t o g i v e h a i r improved wet combing and s o f t , d r y f e e l . I n c r o q u a t HO-80 PG has been f o u n d t o work e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h p o l y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e Jaguar C 14s used he re , as i t appears t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s o f t h e s e p o l y q u a t s , r e s u l t i n g i n g r e a t e r c o n d i t i o n i n g .
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : D e i o n i z e d Water Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e * C i t r i c A c i d
P a r t B : SLES ( 3 mole) s LS Incronam 30 (Cocoamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) I n c r o m i de LR (Laurami de DEA) Croda fos SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate) G1 y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l Cocoate) I n c r o q u a t HO-80PG ( D i o l e o y l a m i d o e t h y l H y d r o x y e t h y l -
G l y c o l S t e a r a t e I n c r o m i n e Ox ide C (Cocamidopropylamine Ox ide )
moni um Methosu l f a t e )
Wt%
57.05 0 . 3 5 0 .10
1 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 6 .00 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 . o o
2 .50 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0
P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
Paraben (and ) P r o p y l Paraben** 1 . o o Hexy l ene G1 y c o l 3 . 0 0 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l * * * 1 . 5 0
P rocedure : Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good m i x i n g . Heat P a r t A
i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A as l i s t e d . Heat b a t c h up t o 70-75C w i t h good m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d - i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add P a r t C.
pH=5.56+-0.5 V i s c o s i ty=4200cps+-1090, Spi n d l e #4 @ 10 rpm
*Jaguar C14S ( Rhone-Poul enc) **Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n Labs)
***Dow C o r n i n g 190 P o l y e t h e r (Dow C o r n i n g ) N .A .T .C . approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-96
Shampoos 247
Conditioning Shampoo
T h i s f o r m u l a uses i t i o n i n g agen t s u i t a b I n c r o m i n e Ox ide C and combing and a s o f t , d r y e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h PO C14S used h e r e , and has t h e s e p o l y q u a t s , r e s u l t
I n c r o q u a t Behenyl HE, a q u a t e r n a r y cond- ' l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h
Croda fos SG t o g i v e h a i r improved wet f e e l . I n c r o q u a t Behenyl HE a l s o works y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e Jaguar been f o u n d t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s o f ng i n g r e a t e r c o n d i t i o n i n g .
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e * C i t r i c A c i d
P a r t 0 : SLES ( 3 mo le ) s LS Incronam 30 (Cocoami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) I n c r o m i n e Ox ide C (Cocamidopropylarnine Ox ide ) I n c r o m i d e LR (Lauramide DEA) C roda fos SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate) G1 y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l Cocoate) I n c r o a u a t Behenvl HE (Behenamidopropyl H y d r o x y e t h y l
D i moni um Chl or; de) .
P a r t C: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (and ) D i azo1 i d
Paraben (and ) P r o p y l Paraben** Hexyl ene G1 y c o l
P rocedure :
i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w
Wt%
5 9 . 5 5 0.35 0 . 1 0
15.00 5 . 0 0 6 .00 2 .00 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 . 0 0
2 . 5 0
n y l Urea (and ) M e t h y l 1 . o o 2 .50
t h good m i x i n g . Heat P a r t A n n r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A as l i s t e d .
Heat b a t c h up t o 70-75C w i t h good-m ix ing . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d - i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add P a r t C .
pH=5.26+-0.5 V i s c o s i ty=4800cpst -10%, Sp i n d l e #4 @ 1Orpm
*Jaguar C145S (Rhone-Poulenc)
N .A .T .C . Approved **Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n Labs)
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-97
248 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
Staue M a t e r i a l : S tage A : 1 Water ; Pure 2 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) 3 Tegobe ta ine L7 4 PEG 150-d i s t e a r a t e
Quan t i t v
49.6009 40. OOOg
5 . OOOg 2 . ooog
Stage 0 : 5 AEC D ime th i cone ( a ) Laure th -4 ( a ) Laure th -23 2 ,5009 6 Germaben 11-E 0 I 4009 7 P . AG 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r h a i r 0 .3009 6 Phosphor i c A c i d 0 , 2 0 0 9
C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d g
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
4 has d i s s o l v e d , about 65C.
35C add 7 and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Measure o u t t h e w a t e r and add i t e m s 2, 3 and 4 and hea t u n t i l
M i x b r i e f l y t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g , add i t e m s 5 & G and when a t
C o l o u r as r e q u i r e d . T h i s s i m p l e fo rmu l a may be r e a d i 1 y adapted t o i n c o r p o r a t e
h e r b a l e x t r a c t s , h y d r o l yzed p r o t e i n , pan theno l and o t h e r s p e c i a1 i n g r e d i e n t s as r e q u i r e d .
P r o j e c t JW 2390/Formula R e f . 639*0
Conditioning Shampoo
Stme- Mkitsx-d I Stage A : 1 Water ; Pure 2 Texapon L20/M 3 Tegobe ta ine L7 4 PEG 150-d7 s t e a r a t e
Quant i t y
46.6009 40 I OOOg 5. OOOg 2 . ooog
Stage 0 : 5 AEC D ime th i cone ( a ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) Lau re th -23 3 .5009 6 Germaben 11-E 0 ,4009 7 F rag rance 0 ,3009 8 Phosphor i c A c i d 0 , 2 0 0 9 9 C o l o u r s a s r e q u i r e d 9
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
4 has d i s s o l v e d , about 65C.
35C add 7 and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5.5-6.5.
Measure o u t t h e wa te r and add i t e m s 2,3 and 4 and hea t u n t i l
M i x b r i e f l y t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g , add i t e m s 5 & 6 and when a t
C o l o u r a s r e q u i r e d . T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may be r e a d i l y adapted t o i n c o r p o r a t e
h e r b a l e x t r a c t s , h y d r o l yzed p r o t e i n , p a n t h e n o l and o t h e r s p e c i a1 i n g r e d i e n t s as r e q u i r e d .
SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s P r o j e c t : J W 2390/Formula R e f . : 837*1
Shampoos 249
Conditioning Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t : D e i o n i z e d Water S tandapo l ES1 (30%) V e l v e t e x BK35 (35%) Laurami de DEA O i 1 s o f A loha Macadamia Nut O i 1 Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
Phase : A A A A A B B
% b y W t 61.25 25.00 1 0 . 0 0 3.00 0 . 5 0 0 . 2 5
QS
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P r o c e d u r e :
p r e s e r v a t i v e and per fume. Cool t o 40C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and per fume. Package.
Phase A : Heat w a t e r t o 70C and add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t
O i l s o f A loha Macademia Nut O i l s e r v e s as a r e f a t t i n g agen t t o r e p l a c e t h e n a t u r a l o i l s l o s t d u r i n g shampooing.
SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Conditioning Shampoo
- A : Dei o n i zed Water Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (Phoenate SLES-70) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne Pecosi 1 C A P - I 240 Decyl Po l y g l ucose Laurami de DEA (Phoenami d LD) PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e (Phoenate 3DSA) Sodium C h l o r i d e PEG-1 20 M e t h y l G1 ucose D i o l e a t e D i me th i cone Copol yo1 Phosphate (Pecos i 1 PS
Wt% 57 .80 20.00
1 . 6 0 2 . 0 0 8 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 4 0 0 . 8 0 2 .40
100) 2 . 0 0
B: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Me thy lpa raben (and) P r o p y l p a r a b e n
C o l o r F rag rance
1 - 0 0
9 , s . q . s .
10% Aqueous C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n a d j u s t t o p H 5.0-6.0
Procedure :
A i s u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g under s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add Phase B w i t h c o n t i n u e d s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . When AB i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 .
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Combine Phase A i t e m s , a g i t a t e and h e a t t o 70C. When Phase
250 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
T h i s mu1 t i f u n c t i o n a l shampoo p r o v i des c l eans i ng and cond i t i on- ing i n one p r o d u c t . I t g i v e s improved g l o s s , wet and d r y comb- i b i l i t y , and m a n a g e a b i l i t y t o t h e h a i r . F requent use w i l l n o t lead t o a "g reasy" b u i l d u p on t h e h a i r .
[ n g r e d i e n t s : :el q u a t SC-240C ) i s t i l l e d Water r t o n a t e r i c 805 j t e p a n o l WAT donamid 716 ' ropy1 ene G1 y c o l ;errnaben I 1 > i t r i c A c i d
P r e p a r a t i on W h i l e ma
i n t o w a t e r . and m i x u n t
Formul a t
P a r t s by Weight 0 . 7 0
55.00 18 .80 1 8 . 5 0 4.00 2 .00 0 .50 0 .50
n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t C e l q u a t SC-240C When s o l u t i o n i s comple te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s 1 homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n t a i n e r . on No. 8802:92
Clear, Colorless Conditioning Shampoo
T h i s c l e a r , c o l o r l e s s shampoo p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g and body t o t h e h a i r .
I n g r e d i e n t s Cel q u a t SC-230M D i s t i 11 ed Water S tandapo l A R e w o t e r i c AM 814 Monamid 716 Versene 100 Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i v e
P a r t s by Weight 0 .25
56.40 35.00
7 .00 1 . o o 0 . 2 5 0 .10
4 , s .
P r e p a r a t i on :
When s o l u t i o n i s comple te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r 1 i s t e d .
Add Cel q u a t SC-230M t o w a t e r whi 1 e mai n t a i n i ng good a g i t a t i on I
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 6919-117
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos 251
Conditioning Shampoo
M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure Texapon L20/M Tegobe ta i ne L7 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 PEG 150-d i s t e a r a t e Germaben 11-E F rag rance Phosphor i c A c i d C o l o u r s a s r e q u i r e d
Formula R e f . : 837*1
Conditioning Shampoo
M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES) Tegobe ta i ne L7 AEC Dimethicone(&)Laureth-4(&)Laureth-23 PEG 150-d i s t e a r a t e Germaben 11 -E P.AG 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r h a i r Phosphor i c A c i d C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d
Formula Re f . : 839*0
Shampoo with Silicone
M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES) Empico l TL 4 0 t Texapon SBN AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 Emp i lan LDE Emp i lan EGMS Polymer JR 400 Kathon CG 100 Sodium H y d r o x i d e 33%
Formula R e f . : 1067*0
SOURCE: A & E C o n n o c k L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
%w/w 48,600 40.000
5.000 3 .500 2 .000 0 .400 0 .300 0 a 200
%w/w 49.600 40.000
5.000 2 , 5 0 0 2 .ooo 0 .400 0 .300 0 I 2 0 0
%w/w 47 .390 18.000 17 .500 9 .500 4 I 000 2 .000 1 .ooo 0 . 5 0 0 0.100 0 .010
252 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
% By Weiqht Water 45.35 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (2 Mole 26%) ( S i p o n ES2) 20.00 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e and Disodium L a u r y l
Su l f o s u c c i n a t e (Monaterge 1164) 20.00 T r i s o d i um Lauroampho PG A c e t a t e Phosphate C h l o r i d e
( P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38) 10 .00 D i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 200 CS) 2 . 5 0 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (Kessco E t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o o Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) 1 . 0 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 .15
Procedure :
70C. Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s :
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 7,100 cps
Forrnul a F-578
Everyday Shampoo
% By Weight Water 48 I 00 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 Mo le 26%) 20.00 Monaterge 11 64 20.00 P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38 10 .00 Monamid CMA 1 .oo Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 . 0 0
Procedure :
Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6 .0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s :
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 60C.
P h y s i c a l Appearance: V i scous 1 i q u i d S o l i d s : 17.00%
Formula F-609
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos 253
Deodorizing Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M E . O . ) PEG-20 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L ) PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O lea te /Cocoate ( A n t i 1 171) G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (Teg i n EGS) Z i nc R i n c i no1 e a t e (and) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (and)
D i p r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (and) L a c t i c Ac i d (Tego Deo HY77)
Phase 0 : Water P r e s e r v a t i ves Fragrance Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L7 ) C i t r i c A c i d (20% s o l u t i o n ) Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n )
Wei n h t %
32 60 0 . 1 0
17 .50 20.00
2 . 5 0 2 I 50 2 . 5 0 3 .00
1 .80
1 0 . 0 0 Q . S . Q . S .
7.50 t o pH 7 . 0
Q . S .
Procedure : 1 . Heat Phase A t o 70C. Add components i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l
2 . Beg in c o o l i n g . S l o w l y c o o l t o 35-40C. Some o f t h e w a t e r o f
3 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B . 4 . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i on
between a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d foam.
Phase B can be used t o s t a r t t h e c o o l i n g .
Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam SLS-30 Cal foam ES-303 Calamide C C i t r i c A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e Perfume and Dye
Weight% 74.45
5 . 0 0 16 .00 2 . 0 0 0 . 1 0 2 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
Comments about t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s ( p H = l O ) . 2 . Add t h e C i t r i c A c i d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 0 .1%) t o a d j u s t pH t o
3 . Add s a l t t o t h e d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y . 4 . Perfume and dye as d e s i r e d .
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical C o , : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-003-01
about 6 .
254 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
MiId Deep Cleaning Shampoo
T h i s u n i q u e shampoo f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t c l e a n s i n g o f t h e "g reasy" b u i l d u p on h a i r , w i t h o u t d r y i n g t h e h a i r o r s c a l p . T h i s shampoo a l s o a i d s i n p r e v e n t i n g / c o n t r o l l i n g s t a t i c f 1 yaway . I n g r e d i e n t s : F l e x a n 130 D i s t i l l e d Water S tepano l WAT R e w o t e r i c AM B-14LS P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Monamid 716 Sodium C h l o r i d e G l y d a n t
P a r t s by Weight 2 .00
62 .55 20.00 10.00
2.00 2.25 0 . 8 0 0 . 4 0
P r e p a r a t i on : W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , add F l e x a n 130 t o w a t e r .
When s o l u t i o n i s comple te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and fill.
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 8802:3813
Water White Shampoo
D . I. Water S t epano 1 WA- Ex t r a Amphosol CA N i n o l 40-CO Sodium C h l o r i d e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l G l y c e r i n C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Kathon CG Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by Weisht Q . S . t o 100 .0
46.50 5 .00 2 .50 1 .oo 1 . o o 0 .50 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 6 Q.S
M i x i ng Procedure :
Kathon CG. A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d (50%) t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodi um C h l o r i d e .
SOURCE : Stepan Co. : Suggested Formul a t i on
Heat f i r s t seven i n g r e d i e n t s t o 165F. M i x . Cool t o 11OF. Add
Shampoos 255
Moisture Therapy Shampoo with Hydrotriticum WAA
The use o f H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i n t h i s shampoo g i v e s h a i r deep- down m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r s h i n e t h a t shows c l e a r t h r o u g h t o t h e o u t s i d e . H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i s a p o w e r f u l wheat p r o t e i n - d e r i v e d amino a c i d complex t h a t has been shown t o p e n e t r a t e i n s i d e t h e h a i r , e n a b l i n g i t t o m o i s t u r i z e f r o m w i t h i n . As a c o l d f o r m u l a , t h i s shampoo i s economical and easy t o make. I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% P a r t A : I n c r o m i de LR (Laurami de DEA) 5.00 Incronam 30 (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 5 . 0 0 Sodi um Pare th -25 S u l f a t e 1 5 . 0 0 H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 1 . o o Dei o n i zed Water 73.00 P a r t B : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
P rocedure :
Then add P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 5.0 w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .
Paraben (and ) P r o p y l Paraben 1 . o o
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A, w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r .
pH=5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 8 , 0 0 0 + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e #4, lOrpm, 25C) N.A.T.C. Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-93
I n q r e d i e n t : D i s t i 1 l e d w a t e r
Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo
W t % q . s . t o 1 o o x
T E A - l a u r y l s u l f a t e (40% a c t i v e ) 1 5 . 0 0 Sodium lau roamphoace ta te (and) sodium t r i d e c e t h s u l f a t e 10 .00 Cocamide DEA 2 .50 G1 y c o l s t e a r a t e 1 . 2 0 P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and ) m e t h y l -
paraben (and) p r o p y l p a r a b e n 0 . 7 5 Benecel MP 943 R h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 0 . 6 0 N-Hance 3000 c a t i o n i c gua r 0 .50 C i t r i c a c i d (50% s o l u t i o n ) pH a d j u s t P rocedure : 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N-Hance b y a d d i n g t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d
w a t e r . Reduce t o pH 7 .0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n t o promote d i s s o l u t i o n o f t h e s u r f a c e - t r e a t e d N-Hance. Heat t o 50C.
2. S i f t t h e Benecel i n t o t h e N-Hance s o l u t i o n . M i x u n t i l b o t h po l ymers a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d .
3 . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 70C. Add t h e TEALS and g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , one a t a t i m e . M i x w e l l between each a d d i t i o n . Tu rn o f f h e a t when homogeneous. Mai n t a i n m i x i ng.
p r e s e r v a t i v e . 5 . A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . 4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e i s a t 55C, add r e m a i n i n g s u r f a c t a n t s and
6 . When be low 40C, add f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: Aqualon Div, :N-Hance 3000 C a t i o n i c Guar : F o r m u l a t i o n
256 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
B
Normal Hair Shampoo A good, b a s i c shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t f l a s h foam and l a t h e r
wh ich i s dense and s o f t . P a r t : I n g r e d i e n t (Trade Name): - W t %
A De ion i zed Water 58 .64 Hydroxyp ropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (Methocel 40-100) 0.10 Na4EDTA 0 . 2 0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0 .01 TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (S tepano l WAT) 22.50 Me thy l Paraben 0 .20 I m i dazo l i d i n y l Urea (Germal 1 1 15) 0 . 2 0 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A) 5 .50 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e (Jordapon ACI-30) 6 .70
C Cocamide DEA (Mazamide 80) 3 . 0 0 Soya Ethy ld imon ium E t h o s u l f a t e (M-Quat 1033) 0 .70 C i t r i c A c i d 0 .25 Ammon i um Ch 1 o r i de 2 .00
pH: 6 .3 -6 .7 V i s c o s i t y : 5500-6000 cps Appearance: C1 ea r , s t raw-col o r e d 1 i q u i d
Procedure: I n t h e main v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e t h e hyd roxyp ropy l m e t h y l c e l l -
u l o s e i n t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r t e n m i n u t e s . Add t h e Na4EDTA and t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , wh ich i n i t i a t e s h y d r a t i o n o f t h e gum. Mix f o r about 20 m inu tes t o ensure comple te h y d r a t i o n , t h e n add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r g i v e n . When b a t c h i s c l e a r and u n i f o r m , add t h e Mazamide 80 and t h e M-Quat 1033, and a d j u s t t h e pH and v i s c o s i t y .
Formula A-208 Baby Shampoo
C l e a r , m i l d , g e n t l e - c l e a n s i n g shampoo. Note: w h i l e PPG t e s t d a t a on t h e i n d i v i d u a l i n g r e d i e n t s i n d i c a t e t h a t t h i s f o r m u l a shou ld be e x t r e m e l y m i l d t o s k i n and eyes, PPG has n o t pe r fo rmed m i ldness t e s t i n g on t h i s system. P a r t : I n g r e d i e n t (Trade Name): Wt%
A D e i o n i z e d Water 68.1 PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e (T-Maz 28) 3 .0 Sodium C12-15 Pare th-15 S u l f o n a t e (Avanel
S-150 CG) 7 .1 PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e (Mapeg 6000DS) 1 . 0
B Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e (Jordapon ACI-30) 10 .0 Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e (Mafo CSB-50) 9 . 0 Cocamide DEA (Mazamide JT-128) 1 . 5
C Qua te rn i um 15 (Dow ic i 1 200) 0 . 2 Fragrance 0 . 1
pH: 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 3,400 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ 6 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , p a l e s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d
Procedure : B lend t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 60-65C t o d i s s o l v e
t h e Mapeg 6000DS. When u n i f o r m , add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and b e g i n c o o l i n g . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s a t approx- i m a t e l y 40C.
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s Formula A-1 12
Shampoos 257
Opaque Antidandruff Shampoo
Water Wt%
6 5 . 3 Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 1 . o Hydroxyp ropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 1 . 1 Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e , 48% ( Z i n c Omadine) 4 .2 C i t r i c Acid, 50% 0 . 4 Sodi um L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 1 8 . 0 Cocamide DEA 5 . 0 Sodi um L a u r y l Sa rcos i n a t e 1 . o Hydro1 yzed Col 1 agen 2 . 0 FD&C B l u e No. 1 , 0 . 2 % 1 . 5 FD&C Ye1 l o w No. 5, 01 . % 0 . 5 Fragrance 9 , s . Procedure :
Heat t h e water t o 70C. Beg in and m a i n t a i n r a p i d s t i r r i n g (1 ,500 rpm) d u r i n g t h e add ing o f i n g r e d i e n t s . Add t h e Veegum and s t i r 15 m inu tes . Add t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and s t i r an a d d i t i o n a l 15 m inu tes . Add t h e Z i n c Omadine and s t i r 5 m i n u t e s . Reduce speed t o 300 rpm. Add t h e c i t r i c a c i d and s t i r u n t i l mixed. Tu rn o f f h e a t . W h i l e c o o l i n g , add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i - e n t s ( e x c e p t f r a g r a n c e ) i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . S t i r u n t i l m ixed a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Weigh back and add wa te r t o make up f o r e v a p o r a t i o n l o s s e s . Cool t o room tempera tu re , s t i r r i n g s l o w l y . Add f r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH t o 8 .
Formula f rom O l i n Corp.
Ultra Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo
T h i s 1 u x u r i ous shampoo f o r m u l a i s t h i c k e n e d u s i ng Veegum U l t r a wh ich a l s o suspends t h e mica p igment t h a t p r o v i d e s pear lescence . Vanseal CS ( c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e ) p r o v i d e s m i l d n e s s and h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i l e comb in ing w i t h l a u r a m i d e DEA t o marked ly enhance t h e q u a l i t y and s t a b i l i t y o f t h e l a t h e r p roduced d u r i n g shampooing.
A : Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 2 . 0 0 D e i o n i z e d Water 61 - 2 5
B: M ica (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (T imeron MP-1001) 0 .50 C : Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 2 5 . 0 0
Laurami de DEA (Monami d 71 6 ) 7 .50 Vanseal CS, Cocoyl Sa rcos ine 3 .75 P r e s e r v a t i v e , dye, f r a g r a n c e 9 , s .
S i f t Veegum U l t r a i n t o t h e wa te r w h i l e m i x i n g a t 700 rpm Procedure :
w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . A d j u s t t h e p r o p e l l e r speed t o 1500- 1700 r p m and m ix f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add t h e B i n g r e d f o r 5 m inu tes . A d j u s t t h e speed t o 200 t o 500 rpm i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g a f t e r each smooth and u n i f o r m .
Formula No. 452
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Veegum Formu la t
e n t s and m i x and add t h e C a d d i t i o n u n t i
ons
258 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlescent Shampoo
Three c o l o r v a r i a n t s u s i n g t i t a n a t e d mica p e a r l p igments a r e suggested w i t h t h i s shampoo f o r m u l a .
__ W t %
H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e (5% aq. S o l n . ) ( K l u c e l G) 20 .oo
A : Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (5% aq. Susp.) 14.00
D i s t i l l e d Water 6 . 0 0
B: D i s t i l l e d Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (S tandapo l T)
C : C i t r i c A c i d D i s t i l l e d Water
q . s . t o 100.00 2 5 . 0 0
0 . 1 0 2 - 0 0
D :
D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (Germal l I I ) 0.30 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) M ica ( T i m i r o n Super Go ld o r
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( V e l v e t e x BA-35) 5 . 0 0 Cocamide DEA (Standamid KD) 3 . 0 0
Me thy l Paraben 0 . 2 0
Super Red) 0 . 2 0
E : Water S o l u b l e Dyes:
(w/ red p e a r l ) 0 .2% aq D&C Red 33 ( w / g o l d p e a r l ) 0 .02% FD&C B l u e 1
Ye1 low 5 ( o r ) 0 .02% FD&C B l u e 1 ( o r ) D&C Red 33
0 . 2 5 0 . 3 0 0.40 1 . oo 2 . 0 0
Procedure :
A . Homogenize u n t i l no und ispe rsed p a r t i c l e s remain . Con t inue b a t c h w i t h s idesweep a g i t a t i o n . Add B i n o r d e r . Combine C, add t o b a t c h . Combine D; add t o b a t c h . Add E, i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s w e l l d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p roceed ing .
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Veegum Formula f r o m Rona
Prepare t h e p a r t A d i s p e r s i o n and s o l u t i o n i n advance; combine
Shampoos 259
Pearlescent Shampoo
T i t a n a t e d mica p e a r l p igments can g i v e un ique " two c o l o r " i r i d e s c e n t e f f e c t s , w i t h appearance chang ing w i t h a n g l e o f v i ewi rig,
A : Veegum HV, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e , (5% aqueous
susp. ) 14.00 Hydroxyp ropy l c e l l u l ose (5% aq. So l n . ) (K1 u c e l G) 20.00 D i s t i l l e d Water 6 . 0 0
B : D i s t i l l e d Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (S tandapo l T)
q . s . t o 100.00 35.00
C : Coco-Betaine (Dehyton AB30) 10.00 Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) 1 . oo H y d r o x y c e t y l Hyd roxye thy l Dimonium C h l o r i d e (Dehyquar t E ) 2 . 0 0
D: D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (Germal l I I ) D i s t i 11 ed Water
E : T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) M ica ( T i m i r o n MP-1001) 0.02% D&C Red No. 33 0.02% FD&C B l u e No . 1
0.25 0 . 5 0
0 . 2 0 2 . 0 0 1 . o o
Procedure :
u n t i 1 no und i spersed p a r t i c l es remai n. Cont inue b a t c h w i t h sidesweep a g i t a t i o n . Add B i n o r d e r . Add C t o b a t c h i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each w e l l . Combine D; add t o b a t c h . Add E i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s we1 1 d i spersed b e f o r e p roceed i ng .
SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum Formula f r o m Rona
Prepare t h e d i s p e r s i o n s i n advance; combi ne A . Homogenize
260 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlescent Shampoo
Phase .&l 1 5% Veegum HV suspens ion (as ) 1 5% K l u c e l G s o l u t i o n (aq) 1 D i s t i 11 ed wa te r
2 D i s t i 1 l e d wa te r 2 S tandapo l T (TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e )
3 C i t r i c A c i d 3 D i s t i 11 ed wa te r
4 Sodium C h l o r i d e 4 D i s t i l l e d wa te r
5 Me thy l paraben 5 Germal l I 1
Wt% 14.00 2 0 . 0 0 6.00
1 2 . 3 0 25.00
0 .10 2 .00
2 . 0 0 10.00
0.20 0 . 3 0
6 T i 02/mi ca ( e . g . T i m i r o n Super Go1 d) 0 .10 -0 .30
7 Vel v e t e x BA-35 5 .00
8 Standamid KD 3 . 0 0
9 Water s o l u b l e dyes 9 , s .
Procedure : Prepare t h e Veegum and K l u c e l d i s p e r s i o n s i n advance, combine
phase # l a Homogenize u n t i l no und ispe rsed p a r t i c l e s remain . Combine b a t c h w i t h sidesweep a g i t a t i o n . Add phase #2 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine phase #3; add t o b a t c h . Combine phase #4; add to b a t c h . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g .
SDl-67-1A: C o l o r Combi n a t i ons : 0 . 2 0 % T i m i r o n Super Red 0.25% D&C Red #33 ( 0 . 0 2 % aq)
SD1-67-1 B: C o l o r Combi n a t i o n s : 0 . 2 0 % T i m i r o n Super G o l d 0.30% FD&C B l u e #1 (0 .02% as) 0.40% FD&C Y e l l o w #5 ( 0 . 0 2 % aq)
SD1-67-1 C: C o l o r Combi n a t i ons : 0 . 2 % T i m i r o n Super Go ld 1.0% FD&C B l u e #I ( 0 . 0 2 % aq) 2 . 0 % D&C Red #33 (0 .02% aq)
SD1-67-1 E : C o l o r Combi n a t i o n s : 0 . 2 % T i m i r o n Super V i o l e t 1 .0% FD&C B l u e #1 ( 0 . 0 2 % aq) 2 .0% D&C Red #33 ( 0 . 0 2 % aq)
SD1-67-11; C o l o r Combinat ions : 0 . 2 0 % T i m i r o n MP-1001 1.00% FD&C B l u e #1 ( 0 . 0 2 % aq) 2 .00% D&C Red #33 (0.02% aq)
C o l o r Combinat ions : 0.20% T im i r o n Super S i 1 v e r 0.10% FD&C B l u e #1 (2% aq)
SD1-67-1 J:
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SD1-67-1
Shampoos 261
Pearlescent Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : CalB1 end P e a r l F ragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Weight% 30.00
Q.S, 1 .oo-2.00
68 .50
Comments about t h i s f o r m u l a : B1 end i ng Procedure :
M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s - e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 4,000-7,000 cPs (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
Charge wa te r i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n P e a r l .
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance: Whi te , P e a r l e s c e n t L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 4,000-7,000 cPs
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 12 .5-13 .5 pH: 6.0-7.0
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n :
B e t a i n e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , PEG-45MJ C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) .
Water, Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamidopropyl
F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-020-01
Basic Shampoo Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s : Ca l foam ES-303 Calamide F Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Wei ah t% 42.86
3 .00 3 . 0 0
51 . 1 4
Comments about t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a i s 125,000 CPS. A t 2 .5% s a l t ,
t h e v i s c o s i t y i s 96,000 cPs. 2 . I n c r e a s i n g t h e amide p r o v i d e s f o r h i g h e r v i s c o s i t i e s a t l o w e r
s a l t l e v e l s . Fo r example, a t 4% amide, a v i s c o s i t y o f 112,000 cPs i s reached a t 1.5% s a l t , and 230,000 cPs i s reached a t 2% s a l t . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-018-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
262 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlescent Shampoo
A p e a r l i z e d shampoo u t i l i z i n g P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m i l d n e s s and R i t a p a n DL f o r c o n d i t i o n a l f e e l .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 3 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 4 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (S tandapo l ES-2) 5 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 6 . Me thy lpa raben 7 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l ) 8 . Laneto-50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 9 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 10.Per fume 11 .Ka thon CG 12.NaC1 (25% S o l n . )
zw/w 2 .25 0 . 7 5 2 . 0 0
53 .60 37.45
0 . 1 5 0 . 2 5 0 I 7 5 2.50 0 . 2 0 0 .10
Q . S .
Compoundi ng P rocedure : Heat i t e m s 1-7 t o 70-75C. Add i t e m s 8 and 9 . Cool t o 40-45C.
Add i t e m s 10-12. R e f . No. 122-104
Salon Conditioning Shampoo
O p t i m i z e d c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s a c h i e v e d t h r o u g h use o f a P o l y q u t a C a t i o n i c Polymer and R i t a p a n DL ( P r o - V i t a m i n 6-5).
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodi um L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e (S tandapo l ES-2) 2 , P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 5 . Laneto-50 (PEG-75 Lano l i n ) 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . Kathon CG 8 . F rag rance-Na tu re H a r v e s t 165-050 9 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 10.Amandul ine S . G . ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n )
40.00 3 .00 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 0 .75 0 . 5 0 0 . 0 3 0 . 3 0
49.42 5 . 0 0
Compounding P rocedure :
u n i f o r m . Then add i t e m 4 , 2, 1, and 5 i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add i t e m s 7, 8 and 10.
D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r a t 165F. Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l
R e f . No. 121-178
SOURCE: R . I . T , A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos 263
Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo
(cold process) with Amilan GST 40
I n q r e d i e n t s : Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Sodi urn L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % 2M. E . O . ) PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F) DATEM ( A m i l a n GST 40) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e and S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s C o l o r F rag rance Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) C i t r i c A c i d (10%) A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 .
Weight_% 46 .00
0 . 1 0 20 .00 2 0 . 0 0
1 . o o 1 . o o 0 . 4 0 7 . 5 0 1 . 5 0 2 . 5 0
Q . S Q. S Q . S
V i s c . A d j 0 i f needed
Procedure : 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r - m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Shampoo-Clear Gel Type
I j g r _ e d i e n t s : Carbopol ETD 2020, 1 . 5 % D i sod1 utn EDTA Cal foam T i s - 4 0 Calamide C
Wei y h t% 77 .70 0.10
20.00 2.00
Comments about t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . A 1 . 5 % s o l u t i o n i n w a t e r i s p r e p a r e d by d i s s o l v i n g t h e
2 . The d i s p e r s i on i s s l i g h t l y hazy i'ii t h g e l - 1 1 ke c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y even a 1% s o l u t i o n wou ld be s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s
4 . The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e Carbopol
5 . The b l e n d t u r n s c l e a r upon Calfoani TLS-40 a d d i t i o n . 6 . S t i r u n t i l t h e b l e n d i s homogeneous. 7 . W i t h o u t a d j u s t m e n t t h e pH i s 5-6.
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-004-01
Carbopol a t 4 0 C .
app l i c a t i on .
so! u t i on .
264 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearl Pigment Shampoo
Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e & ( K 1 u c e l G) H y d r o x y p r o p y l C e l l u l ose S o l u t i on TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Texapon 1 4 2 ) C i t r i c Ac id Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i ve S i comet Amaranth 85 E123 o r S icomet B l u e S 42045
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) M ica (T imeron MP 1001 o r
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Dehyton K ) Cocami de DEA ( Comper 1 an KD) Water demi n e r a l i zed Procedure:
C o m p o s i t i o n o f Veegum/Kl u c e l Suspension : A ) Veegum HV ( 5 % ) 35%; 8) K l u c e l G (5%) 50%; Water 15%.
F o r t h e Veegum HV Suspension (A ) h y d r a t e 5% Veegum HV i n w a t e r , f o l l o w e d b y homogen iza t i on w i t h ( e . g . ) an U l t r a T u r r a x . Fo r t h e K l u c e l G s o l u t i o n (B) add 5% K l u c e l G t o t h e approp- r i a t e amount o f w a t e r s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by t h e a d d i t i o n o f a p r e s e r v a t i v e , e . g . Germa l l 115. Then t h e s o l u t i o n i s a l l o w e d t o s w e l l f o r abou t 1 2 h o u r s . The s t o c k suspens ion (A ) and s o l u t i o n (B ) a r e m ixed as a s s i g n e d (A:35%, B:50%, C:15% w a t e r ) and homogenized. To t h e r e s u l t i n g Veegum/ K l u c e l suspens ion a l l o t h e r components a r e added i n t h e o r d e r a s i n d i c a t e d , w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Developed b y D r . A . T h u r n - M u l l e r .
( D y e s t u f f Suspension 1%)
T imeron S.I. Pigmen ts )
Formula f r o m E . Merck
4 0 . 0 2 5 . 0
0 . 1 2 . 0 0 . 2
0 .5 -0 .2
0.1-0.2
0 . 1 - 0 . 2 5 . 0 3 . 0 q . s .
Pearlescent Conditioning ShampooM
A : Veegum HV, MAS (5% D i s p . ) 14.00 H y d r o x y p r o p y l C e l l u l o s e ( 5 % S o l n . ) (K1 u c e l G) 2 0 . 0 0 D i s t i 1 l e d Water 11 .50
8 : Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (S tandapo l WAQ Spec.) 30.00 H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( N u t r i l a n L) 10 .oo
C : Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 . o o D i s t i l l e d Water 1 . 5 5
0: D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germa l l 11) 0 . 2 0 D i s t i 11 ed Water 1 . 5 5
E : T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and ) M i c a (T imeron Super Go ld ) 0 . 2 0 Coco-Beta ine (Dehyton AB30) 10 .00 Water s o l u b l e dyes, o p t i o n a l q . s .
Procedure: P repare d i s p e r s i o n s i n advance; combine A . Homogenize u n t i l
no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l es remai n . C o n t i nue b a t c h w i t h s i desweep a g i t a t i o n . Add 8, i n o r d e r . Combine C, add t o b a t c h . Combine D, add t o b a t c h . Add E i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g .
Formula f r o m Rona
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Go., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos 265
Salon Conditioning Shampoo
O p t i m i z e d c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s a c h i e v e d t h r o u g h use o f a P o l y q u t a C a t i o n i c Polymer and R i t a p a n DL ( P r o - V i t a m i n 6-51) I
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodi urn L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e (S tandapo l ES-2) 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l ' L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l -Pantheno1 ) 5 . Laneto-50 (PEG-75 Lanol i n) 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 (Po lyquatern ium-10) 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 8 . Kathon CG 9 . Fragrance-Nature H a r v e s t 165-050 1 0 . D i s t i l l e d Water 1 l . A m a n d u l i n e S . G . ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n )
%w/w 54.35
3 . 0 0 1 .oo 0 . 2 5 0 . 7 5 0.50 0.25 0 . 0 3 0 .30
37.87 5 .00
Compounding Procedure :
u n i f o r m . Then add i t e m 4, 2, 1, 5 and 7 i n o r d e r and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and per fume. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl .
D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r a t 165F. Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l
R e f . No. 121-171
Conditioning Shampoo
A r i c h shampoo c o n t a i n i n g Amandul ine SG and P a t i o n i c ISL f o r c o n d i t i o n i n g and h a i r r e p a i r .
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 29% 2 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 29% 3 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 5 a D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 6 . R i t a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 7 . Amandul ine SG ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n ) 8 . G l y d a n t
%w/w 2 5 . 0 0 20.00
5 .00 3 .50
40.80 0 .50 5 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
Compoundi ng Procedure:
m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C. Add i t e m s 7 and 8 . D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n t o i t e m 5 . Add i t e m s 1-4 and h e a t w h i l e
R e f . No. 121-161C
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
266 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo All Purpose for Normal Hair
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam ES-303 Cal t a i ne C-35
Weight% 5 0 . 0 0 40 .00
5 . 0 0 Calamide LL 1 . 5 0 C i t r i c A c i d 0 . 0 7
NaCl 2 .50 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a :
F rag rance , Dye(s ) 0 . 0 0
1 . M i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s . 2 , Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . 3 . Add t h e r e p o r t e d amount o f s a l t . S a l t c o n t e n t can be
4 . F r a g r a n c e o r dye c o m p a t i b i l i t y were n o t e v a l u a t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-006-01
a d j u s t e d t o a c h i eve d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y .
Shampoo All Purpose for Oily Hair
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei g h t % Water 46 .00 Cal foam SLS-30 25 .00 Cal foam ES-303 2 5 . 0 0 Calamide LL 2.50 C i t r i c A c i d 0 . 1 0 F rag rance , Dye(s ) 0 . 0 0 NaCl 1 . o o Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a :
1 . M i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s . 2 . Add enough C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t t h e p H t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . 3 . F rag rance o r dye c o m p a t i b i l i t y was n o t e v a l u a t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-007-01
Shampoo-Inexpensive
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water NH4C1
Weight% 45 .70
1 . o o PEG-75 Lanol i n 0 . 3 0 Cal foam ALS-30 50 .00 Calamide C 3 . 0 0 P r e s e r v a t i ve 0 . 0 0 F rag rance , Dye 0 . 0 0 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a :
1 . The i n g r e d i e n t s s h o u l d be mixed i n o r d e r r e p o r t e d . 2 . I f needed, a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-009-01
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co, : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Shampoos 267
Shampoo-Clear Gel Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Carbopol ETD 2020 ( 1 - 5 % ) D i sod i um EDTA Cal foam TLS-40 Calamide C
O/oWt. 7 7 . 7 0
0 . 1 0 20 I O 0
2 . 0 0
Comments About t h i s Formula:
(Easy t o D i s p e r s e ) - 6 . F . G o o d r i c h
1 . A 1 .5% s o l u t i o n i n w a t e r i s p r e p a r e d by d i s s o l v i n g t h e Carbo-
2 . The d i s p e r s i o n i s s l i g h t l y hazy w i t h g e l - l i k e c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y even a 1% s o l u t i o n would be s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s app-
4. The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e Carbopol s o l -
5 . The b l e n d t u r n s c l e a r upon Cal foam TLS-40 a d d i t i o n . 6 . S t i r u n t i l t h e b l e n d i s homogeneous. 7 . W i t h o u t a d j u s t m e n t t h e p H i s 5 -6 .
Carbopol ETD 2020-Hydrophobi c a l l y Modi f i ed Po l y a c r y l i c Ac i d
p o l a t 40C.
1 i c a t i o n ,
u t i o n .
F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-004-01
Shampoo-Clear Gel Type
I n s r e d i e n t s : Carbopol ETD 2020 ( 1 . 5 % ) D i s o d i um EDTA Cal foam SLS-30 Cal foam ES-303 Calamide C
%Wt. 77 I 7 0
0 . 1 0 1 5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 2 .00
Comments About t h i s Formula:
P o l y a c r y l i c Acid, 6 . F . G o o d r i c h
1 . A 1 .5% s o l u t i o n i s made by d i s p e r s i n g t h e Carbopol i n 40C
2 . The d i s p e r s i o n i s s l i g h t l y hazy w i t h g e l - l i k e c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y even a 1% s o l u t i o n would be s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s app-
1 i c a t i on. 4 . The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e Carbopol s o l -
u t i o n and s t i r r e d u n t i l a homogeneous p r o d u c t i s p r e p a r e d . F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-005-01
Carbopol ETD 2020 (Easy t o D i spe rse ) -Hydrophob i c a l l y Modi f i ed
warm w a t e r and s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Con : Formul a r y
268 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo-Clear Liquid Conditioning
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam ES-301 Cal t a i ne C-35 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne Ox ide Calamide C PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l Cocoate PEG-1 5 Cocopol yami ne F rag rance , Dye(s ) P r e s e r v a t i ve Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s , one a t a t i m e , i n t h e o r d e r
2 . Adjust pH t o 6 . 5 + - 0 . 5 W i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . Smal l a d d i t i o n o f s a l t can be used t o a d j u s t
a g i t a t i o n .
F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-011-01
Shampoo-All Purpose
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam ES-302 Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide C NaCl Kathon CG Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s as 1 i s t e d . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 3 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . Formula i s s i m i l a r t o SHM-006-0.
F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-010-01
Shampoo-Clear Liquid
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water
Wei g h t % 55 .00 30 .00
6 .50 3 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 0 0 0 . 0 0
g i v e n , under
v i s c o s i t y .
Wei n h t % 51 . 2 0 40 I 00
5 . 0 0 3 .00 0 . 7 5 0 . 0 5
Wei g h t % 60.70
n-coco B e t a Amino P r o p i o n i c A c i d 7 . 0 0 Cal foam TLS-40 28.00 Calamide LL 4 .00 F r a g r a n c e 0 . 0 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 2 5 Kathon CG 0 . 0 5 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n under adequate a g i t a t i o n .
2 . A d j u s t t o pH 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . Adequate a g i t a t i o n i s i m p o r t a n t - o t h e r w i s e g e l - l i k e p a r t i c l e s
( i f f r a g r a n c e i s added, p r e - m i x i t w i t h Calamide L L ) .
w i l l f o r m upon s t a n d i n g f o r a few d a y s . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-013-01
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co I : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos 269
Shampoo-Clear Viscous
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal B1 end C1 e a r F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
W_ei g h t % 30 .00 Q.S
1 . 0 0 - 2 . 0 0 68.50
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 81 e n d i n g P rocedure :
Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n C l e a r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 CPS (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance: C l e a r , V i scous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3,000-5,000 cPs
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 11 .5 -12 .5 pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i on :
B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamidopropyl
D y e ( s ) . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-019-01
Shampoo-Conditioning
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Ca l foam SLS-30 Calamide LL Calamide C S i 1 i cone D i merami doquat EG Monos tea ra te NaCl P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F rag rance*
Wei q h t % 57.85 35 .00
3 .00 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 0 .50 1 .oo 9 . 5 0
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r r e p o r t e d w h i l e h e a t i n g t o abou t 60C. 2 . Cool b e f o r e add i ng f r a g r a n c e . 3 . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and dye as needed. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d .
*F rag rance , F rag rance #S-5704 - F i n e F l a v o r s & F rag rances , I n c Formu 1 a t i on SHM-0 1 7-0 1
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
270 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo-Concentrate
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Cal foam TLS-40 Calamide C Calamide LL Cal foam ALS-30 C i t r i c A c i d NaCl
1 . 2 . 3 .
4 . 5 . 6 . 7 .
%Wt. 1 2 . 7 5 8 . 0 0
20 * 00 1 2 . 5 0 1 2 . 5 0 26.00
0 .75 7 . 5 0
Comments About t h i s Formula: M i x w a t e r and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . Add t h e n e x t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o t h e water/PG s o l u t i o n The l a s t s u r f a c t a n t added i s ALS-30; t h e b l e n d becomes v i scous I A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d (pH 6 - 7 ) . Add NaCl l a s t . The c o n c e n t r a t e i s v e r y v i s c o u s . Add Perfume, Dye(s) and P r e s e r v a t i v e as d e s i r e d . F i n i s h e d shampoo can be made by d i l u t i n g 1 p a r t c o n c e n t r a t e w i t h 7-15 p a r t s w a t e r . F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-008-01
Shampoo Clear Liquid Conditioning
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam ES-301 Cal t a i ne C-35 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne Ox ide Calamide C PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate PEG-1 5 Cocopol yami ne F rag rance , Dye(s ) P r e s e r v a t i ve
O/oWt. 5 5 . 0 0 30.00
6 . 5 0 3.00 1 .50 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 0 0 0 . 0 0
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s , one a t a t i m e , i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n , under
2. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 + - 0 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . Smal l a d d i t i o n o f s a l t can be used t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co . : Fo rmu la ry
a g i t a t i o n .
F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-011-01
Shampoos 271
Shampoo-Concentrate
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water P ropy lene G1 y c o l Cal foam TLS-40 Calamide C Calamide LL Cal foam ALS-30 C i t r i c A c i d NaCl
Wei q h t % 12 .75 8 . 0 0
20 .00 12 .50 12 .50 26 .00
0 . 7 5 7 . 5 0
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x w a t e r and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . 2 . Add t h e n e x t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o t h e water/PG s o l u t i o n . 3 . The l a s t s u r f a c t a n t added i s ALS-30; t h e b l e n d becomes v i s c o u s 4 . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d (pH 6 - 7 ) . 5 . Add NaCl l a s t . The c o n c e n t r a t e i s v e r y v i s c o u s . 6 . Add Perfume, Dye(s) and P r e s e r v a t i v e as d e s i r e d . 7 . F i n i s h e d shampoo can be made by d i l u t i n g 1 p a r t c o n c e n t r a t e
w i t h 7-15 p a r t s w a t e r . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-008-01
Shampoo-Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Cal foam SLS-30 S t e a r i c A c i d PEG-5 Soya S t e r o l
P a r t 0 : Water NaOH, 50% NaCl
Weight%
45 .00 7 . 5 0 1 . o o
43 .50 1 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Heat P a r t A and P a r t B ( s e p a r a t e l y ) t o 70C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 2 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B . 3 . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 4 . Add Perfume, Dye(s) and P r e s e r v a t i v e as needed a t 45C. 5 . The E t h o x y l a t e d Soya S t e r o l p r o v i d e s a d e s i r a b l e a f t e r
shampoo sheen t o t h e h a i r . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-012-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
272 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo-Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal s o f t T-60 Calamide 0 Cal foam EA-603 S t e a r i c A c i d NaOH, 50% S o l u t i o n C i t r i c A c i d Water
%A 2 2 . 0 0
4 .75 1 6 . 0 0
7 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 .10
49 .65
Comments About T h i s Formula: 1 . M i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . 2 . A p p l y h e a t t o m e l t t h e S t e a r i c A c i d (75C). 3 . Add C a u s t i c and C i t r i c A c i d i n t o w a t e r and h e a t t o about
60-7OC. 4. Add t h e s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e s u r f a c t a n t b l e n d w i t h s t i r r i n g . 5 . Cool t h e p r o d u c t w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 6 . The p r o d u c t i s a s o f t cream
F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-001-01
Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal foam SLS-30 Cal foam ES-303 Calamide C C i t r i c Ac id Sodium C h l o r i d e Perfume & Dye
S/oWt. 74 .45
5 . 0 0 16.00 2 .00 0 . 1 0 2 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . M i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s (pH=lO). 2 . Add C i t r i c A c i d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 0.1%) t o a d j u s t pH t o about 6 . 3 . Add s a l t t o t h e d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y . 4 . Perfume and dye as d e s i r e d .
F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-003-01
SOURCE : P i 1 o t Chemi c a l Co. : Formul a r y
Shampoos 273
Shampoo with Silicone
Stane M a t e r i a1 : Q u a n t i t y S tage A : 1 Water; Pure 47,3909 2 Polymer JR 400 0.5009 3 Kathon CG 100 0.1009 Stage B: 4 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES) 18 , ooog 5 Empico l TL 4 0 t 17 ,5009 6 Texapon SBN 9.5009 Stage C : 7 Empi lan EGMS 1.ooog 8 Emp i lan LDE 2 . ooog Stage D: 9 AEC D ime th i cone ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a ) Laure th -23 4. OOOg Stage E: 10 Sodium H y d r o x i d e 33% 0.01og M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
add Kathon. Weigh o u t w a t e r and s t a r t h e a t i n g . D i s p e r s e Polymer JR and
Add i t e m s o f P a r t B and b r i n g t o 65/70C. S t i r i n i t e m s o f P a r t C and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , more h e a t i n g
may be r e q u i r e d . Add S i l i c o n e CM2139-D1 and S i l v e r s o n m ix - do n o t i n t r o d u c e
a i r - A d j u s t pH. Cool w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g . SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : P r o j e c t JW 2465/Formula R e f . : 1067*0
Gentle Everyday Shampoo
T h i s m i l d shampoo i s s u i t a b l e f o r eve ryday use. A c l e a r , wa te r -wh i t e , v i s c o u s shampoo w i t h e x c e l 1 e n t h e a t s t a b i 1 i t y .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei a h t % D i s t i 11 ed w a t e r 9 , s . t o 100.00 Sodi um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 28% 1 9 . 6 0 Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e , 35% 11 .oo Sodi um l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% 9 .60 PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e 2 -90 Benecel MP 943 R 1 . 1 0 Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z a o l i n e ,
1 .5% 0 . 0 8 P rocedure : 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Benecel by a d d i n g t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d
w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-45C w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M ix u n t i l f u l l y d i s s o l v e d .
add i t i on.
o l v e d . Tu rn h e a t o f f .
p r e s e r v a t i v e .
2 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s , one a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l between each
3 . Heat t o 70-75C. Add t h e PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e . M i x u n t i l d i s s -
4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e reaches 40C o r be low, add f r a g r a n c e and
SOURCE: Aqua1 on : B u l l e t i n VC-526D: Per formance o f Benecel
274 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Temporary Color-In Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei g h t % Phase A : Water 36 .40 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0 . 0 5 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e E ) 7 . 0 0 L a u r y l G1 u c o s i d e (Tego G1 u c o s i d 121 6) 6 . 5 0 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1 . 2 5 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e Cocoate ( A n t i 1 171) 2 . 0 0 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne Ox ide ( A m i n o x i d WS 35) 5 .00 Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0 . 3 0 D i s o d i um Cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e 1 8 . 0 0 Phase B: PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2 . 5 0 B a s i c B l u e 99 1 B a s i c Brown 16 ) B l e n d as needed A c i d V i o l e t 43 ) f o r c o l o r 1 . o o B a s i c Red 76 1 B a s i c Y e l l o w 57 ) Water 20 .00 Phase C: F rag rance Q . S . P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Phase D: C i t r i c A c i d 25% S o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 P rocedure : 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r o f Phase A t o 50C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i -
e n t s o f Phase A i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 0 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . Heat t o 50C. 4 . Add Phase B t o Phase C . M i x w e l l . 5 . Add Phase B/C t o Phase A . M i x . 6 . Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and f r a g r a n c e . SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoo-Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal s o f t T-60 Calamide 0 Cal foam EA-603 S t e a r i c A c i d NaOH, 50% S o l u t i o n C i t r i c A c i d Water Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . 2 . A p p l y h e a t t o m e l t t h e S t e a r i c A c i d (75C) . 3 . Add C a u s t i c and C i t r i c Ac id i n t o w a t e r and h e a t
4 . Add t h e s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e s u r f a c t a n t b l e n d w i t h 5 . Cool t h e p r o d u c t w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 6 . The p r o d u c t i s a s o f t cream. SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co I : Formula SHM-001-01
60-7OC.
Weight% 22.00
4 . 7 5 1 6 . 0 0
7 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
49 .65
t o about
s t i r r i ng .
Shampoos 275
Transparent Shampoo
M i r a c a r e MPC C i t r i c A c i d ( t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 ) F rag rance , Dye(s) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Wei q h t % 2 5 . 0 Q.S. Q.S.
0 . 6 - 1 . 6 7 4 . 0
81 e n d i n g P rocedure :
MPC. M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c Ac id as needed. Add c o m p a t i b l e F rag rance , Dye(s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d c o n s i s t e n c y w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium Ch lo - r i d e as needed.
Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance (3 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y (3 25C: 4,000-6,000 cps
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 10-12 pH: 5 .5 -6 .5
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i on :
Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne, F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d, D y e ( s ) .
SOURCE: Rhone Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formula 91-1008
Water, Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Sodium C h l o r i d e ,
Shampoo
Water Cal foam SLS-30 Cal foam ES-303 Calamide C C i t r i c Ac id NaCl F rag rance , Dye
P i l o t Formula #SHM-003-01
Weight% 74.40
5 . 0 0 16 .00
2 . 0 0 0 . 1 0 2 .50
Q.S.
All Purpose Shampoo
Water Cal foam ES-302 Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide C NaCl Kathon CG
P i l o t Formula #SHM-010-01
Weight% 51 . 2 0 40 .00
5 . 0 0 3 .00 0 . 7 5 0.05
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Cor : Persona l Care F o r m u l a t i o n s
276 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water White Shampoo from a Blend
Agent 1829-50* Sodium C h l o r i d e D. I. Water DMDM H y d a n t o i n C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by Wei a h t 25.00
0 . 5 0 Q . S . t o 100 .00
0 . 2 0 0 . 1 1
Q. S
M i x i ng P rocedure :
w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . M i x f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t p H t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0
A d d i t i o n a l sodium c h l o r i d e may be added t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y .
* C o n t a i n s Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Lauramide DEA, C i t r i c A c i d
Premium Water White Shampoo
Stepan-Mi 1 d LSB S t e o l CS-330 Amphosol CA N i n o l 4 0 4 0 D . I . Water C i t r i c Acid (50%) Kathon CG Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by Wei p h t 2 5 . 0 1 0 . 0 1 0 . 0
3 . 0 Q.S. t o 100.0
Q . S . 0 . 0 6 Q.S.
M i x i n g P rocedure :
w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . M i x f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t p H t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0
Sodium c h l o r i d e may be added t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y .
Water White Shampoo
D . I . Water Stepan-Mi 1 d LSB S t e o l CA-130 N i n o l 96-SL DMDM Hydan to i n C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by Weiaht Q.S. t o 100.0
2 4 . 0 15 .4
2 . 0 0 . 2 5 Q.S . 1 . o
M i x i ng P rocedure : M i x f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r w i t h h e a t . ( H e a t i n g t o
150F) . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h m i x i n g . Add DMDM H y d a n t o i n and a d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . V i s c o s i t y can be a d j u s t e d w i t h a d d i t i o n a l sodium c h l o t i d e .
SOURCE: Stepan Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos 277
3 in 1 Antidandruff Shampoo 17.2% active ingredient
Reci pe : A O c t o p i r o x
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i q u i d Hostapon KCG Genamin KSL C e t i o l HE B e l s i 1 DMC 6032 Merquat 550 Fragrance
D Water
E Glucamate DOE 120
F Genagen CAB Genapol L-3 Genapol TSM
Procedure : 1 M i x A w i t h 8 . 2 Add t h e components o f C t o 1 and s t i r w e l l . 3 D i s s o l v e E i n D, add t o 1 and s t i r w e l l . 4 S t i r t h e components o f F one a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 5 A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0
Formula BI /6142
Wei a h t % 0 . 4 0
10 .00
30.00 5 .00 2 . 0 0 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 .30
30.30
1 . o o
8 . 0 0 2 - 0 0 3.00
H a i r Shampoo For daily use, clear, 15.8% active ingredient
Rec ipe : Wt% A Genapol LRO l i q u i d 30.00
B Genapol AMG Hostapon KCG Fragrance Water D y e s t u f f sol u t i on P r e s e r v a t i v e Genagen CAB Genapol L-3
8 .00 5 .00 0 . 3 0
46.70 q . s . 9 , s .
6 .00 2 . 0 0
C Sodium c h l o r i d e 2 . 0 0 Procedure : 1 S t i r t h e components o f B one a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o A . 2 I f necessary a d j u s t t h e pH. 3 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C .
Formula BI /1130
SOURCE: Hoechs t : Guide Recipes f o r t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y
Section IX Shaving Products
2 78
Shaving Products 279
Brushless Shave CreamFormul a : A : Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i ne T r i e t h a n o l ami ne B : Methocel 40-1 00 (Dow)
% by Weight
78 .193 5 .000 0.857
0 .100 C: S t e a r i c A c i d 10.000 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 0 .500 A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A l c o h o l 1 . 5 0 0 W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1 s ( W i t c o ) 1 . 5 0 0 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE 1 .500 D: D e i o n i z e d Water 0 .500 Dowi c i 1 200 A n t i m i c r o b i a1 0 . 2 0 0 E : Perfume O i 1 -A1 mond 0 .150 Procedure :
M i x A a t room temp. 10 m i n . , t h a n add B and m i x u n t i l com- p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Beg in h e a t i n g A&B and, i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine and h e a t C i n g r e d i e n t s . When b o t h m i x t u r e s a r e between 75 and 8OC, combine w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . When b a t c h c o o l s be low 45C add D . Add E when b a t c h is below 40C.
Brushless Shave Cream Formula: % by Weiqht A : Dei o n i zed Water 78.193 G l y c e r i n e 5 I 000 B: Methocel 40-100 0.100 C : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 .857 D : S t e a r i c A c i d 10.000 S t e a r y l A1 coho l 0 .500 A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A1 c o h o l 1 .500 W h i t e F o n o l i n e P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) 1 .500 G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE 1 . 5 0 0 E: Dei o n i zed Water 0 . 5 0 0 Dowi c i 1 200 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 . 2 0 0 F : Perfume O i 1 (Almond) 0 .150 Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n , t h e n C . The d i s p e r s e d Methoce l w i 11 h y d r a t e i n about 15 mins . Beg in h e a t i n g t h e s o l u t i o n and i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l combine and h e a t D . When b o t h m i x t u r e s a r e 75-8OC combine w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . When b a t c h c o o l s t o 45C add E . Add F when b a t c h i s be low 40C. SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Mix A i n g r e d i e n t s a t room temp. f o r 10 m i n s . , t h e n add B w i t h
280 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Foaming Shaving GelT h i s non- foaming shave g e l i s u n i q u e l y d e s i g n e d t o g i v e
e x c e l l e n t r a z o r g l i d e w i t h o u t u s i n g w a t e r . Areas o f sugges ted use a r e as a t r a v e l s h a v i n g g e l , an e t h n i c p r o d u c t o r f o r p r o b l e m s k i n where b l e m i s h e s o r o t h e r s e n s i t i v e a reas a r e v i s i b l e . Sequence Raw M a t e r i a1 :
1 Standamid LD 1 S t e o l CS-460 1 L i p o c o l 0 /95 1 L i p o c o l S-20 1 L i p o n a t e IPM 1 L i p o n i c EG-1
Weight% 5 . 5 0 4.50 3 . 0 0 6 .50 5 . 0 0
10 .00 1 U l t r a o l 70 N F 15.00 1 Panal ene L-14E 5 .00 2 Dei o n i zed Water 45.25 2 Me thy lpa raben 0 .25
P rocedure : 1 . Premix Sequence #1 i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C w i t h medium
2 . Heat Premixed Sequence #2 t o 80C and m ix u n t i l t h e m e t h y l -
3 . Add Sequence #2 t o Sequence #1 w i t h medium speed and s l o w l y
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemicals I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n No, 898
I n n r e d i e n t s : Weight% Phase A : SD A l c o h o l 40A 30 .00 Water 30 .00 Carbomer 940 0 . 4 0 Phase B : Water 5 . 7 4 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 5 6 A1 1 a n t o i n 0 . 2 0 Phase C : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and ) Ce te th -20 ( T e g i n a c i d H ) 0 .75 S t e a r e t h - 7 (and) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) S t e a r e t h - 1 0
(Emu lga to r 2155) 0 .75 Decyl O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) 3 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t S ) 3 . 0 0 Menthol 0 . 0 5 Phase D : Water 25.55 Phase E: F rag rance Q . S . Procedure : 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer i n t h e w a t e r and a l c o h o l . 2 . M i x Phase B and add t o Phase A . M i x w e l l . 3 . Heat Phase C t o
speed on overhead m i x e r .
paraben i s c o m p l e t e l y s o l u b i l i z e d .
a l l o w t o c o o l .
After Shave Balm
80C. 4 . Heat t h e w a t e r (Phase D ) t o 80C and add t o Phase C . B e g i n h o m o g e n i z a t i o n and c o o l t o 50C. 5 . U s i n g sweep m i x e r , add Phase A/B t o Phase C / D . Homogenize. Sweep m ix c o o l t o 30C. D i spense.
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Shaving Products 281
Shave Gel
The r i c h l a t h e r o f t h i s s h a v i n g g e l has good foam and l u b r i c i - t y w i t h l o w i r r i t a n c y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 3 . P a t i o n i c 138C ( S o d i u L a u r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 4 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 5 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 6 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 7 . R i t a PEO-1 (PEG-5M) 8 . Me thy lpa raben 9 . Perfume 1 0 . G l y d a n t 11 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 50% 12.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n )
%w/w 53 .73 26 I 67 10 .00
4 .00 2 .00 0 . 5 0 0.10 0 . 1 0 0 .20 0 . 2 0
t - 2 . 0 0 + - O n 50
Compounding P rocedure :
w i t h T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Cool t o 120F and add i t e m s 9 and 10 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n .
Heat i t e m s 1-8 t o 165F w h i l e m i x i n g . N e u t r a l i z e t o p H 7 . 5
R e f . No. 122-91
Low Alcohol Moisturizing Lotion
A m o i s t u r i z i n g , l o w a l c o h o l , opaque a f t e r s h a v e , wh ich has a c o o l i n g , s o o t h i n g s k i n - t i g h t e n i n g f e e l w i t h a s u b s t a n t i v e a f t e r - f e e l f r o m t h e P a t l a c I L and P a t i o n i c I S L .
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . A c r i tamer 941 (Carbomer) 2 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 3 . P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) 4 . R i t a p r o 165 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 5. P a t i o n i c I S L (Sod i um I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 6 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 7 . M y r i s t y l L a c t a t e 8 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( 5 0 % ) 9 . A l c o h o l SD 40 lO.Per fume, A . S . Type
0 . 7 5 81.61
1 . o o 0 . 5 0 1 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 1 . 0 0 0 . 6 4
12.00 1 . o o
Compounding P rocedure :
i t e m s 3-7 t o i t e m s 1-2, t a k i n g c a r e n o t t o e n t r a p a i r . Cool t o 140F. Add i t e m s 8 -9 . Cool t o 11OF and add i t e m 10 . A d j u s t p H t o 5 . 3 . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s .
NOTE: A sweep a g i t a t o r i s recommended f o r t h i s p r o d u c t . Weigh i t e m s 1-2 and i t e m s 3-7 and h e a t t o 165F. S l o w l y add
V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d RVF H e l i o p a t h TA @ 10 rpm @ 27C: 6 4 6 0 ~ ~ ~ R e f . No. 122-90
SOURCE: R . I , T . A , Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section X Soaps and Hand Cleaners
282
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 283
Anti-Bacterial Handsoap
I n q r e d i e n t s : CalB1 end C1 e a r N i p a c i d e PX P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Versene 100 F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
%Wt 3 5 . 0
0 . 7 5 1 .50 0 . 2 0
Q . S . Q . S .
6 2 . 5 5
Comments About t h i s Fo rmu la : 51 e n d i n g P rocedure :
100 i n t o wa te r and m ix u n t i 1 u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e N i p a c i d e PX i n p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and, w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l / P X m i x t u r e i n t o t h e main C a l B l e n d C l e a r system and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . I f d e s i r e d , t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e system may be i n c r e a s e d w i t h t h e t r a c e a d d i t i o n ( 0 . 0 5 - 0 . 2 5 % ) o f sodium c h l o r i d e o r decreased w i t h t h e a d d i t i o n ( 0 . 2 - 0 . 5 % ) o f p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l a s needed.
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : A c t i v e I n g r e d i e n t : C h l o r o x y l e n o l Appearance: C1 e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 6 , 0 0 0 - 1 0 , 0 0 0 cps
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Wate r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r and Versene
pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 5
DEA, Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Sodi urn C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , T e t r a - sodium EDTA, C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) .
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-019-01
284 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Mild Cleansing Bar(Formula 91-1103)
T h i s h i g h foaming c l e a n s i n g b a r i s m i l d enough f o r baby use . T h e r e f o r e , i t i s p e r f e c t f o r anyone who wants a good c l e a n s i n g p r o d u c t f o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n . I t s n o n - a l k a l i n e f o r m u l a g e n t l y c l e a n s e s t h e s k i n w i t h o u t t h e d r y i n g e f f e c t s o f soap. I t s e m o l l i e n t s and m o i s t u r i z e r s l e a v e t h e s k i n f e e l i n g c l e a n , s o f t and smooth.
S tep A : Geropon AS-200 (Rhone-Poulenc) S t e a r i c A c i d , T r i p l e Pressed Wickenol 550 (CasChem) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e
S t e p 8 : DV-3284* (Rhone-Poulenc)
S tep C: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e
Step D: Fragrance, D y e ( s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e
% by Weight
64.0 Q . S . 6 . 0 0 . 2
6 . 0
4 . 0 0 . 4
Q.S.
*DV-3284 i s a 55% aqueous s o l u t i o n o f Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e
81 e n d i n g Procedure : S tep A :
Wickenol 550, T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) i n a powder m i x e r .
S tep B:
S P O t S .
B lend t h e d r y components (Geropon AS-200, S t e a r i c A c i d ,
S l o w l y and e v e n l y , add t h e DV-3284 t o S tep A t o a v o i d wet
S tep C: D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e and any o t h e r w a t e r s o l u b l e
components i n t h e water and u n i f o r m l y add t o S teps A and B t o a v o i d wet s p o t s ,
S tep D :
mixed, m i l l and/or r e f i n e t h e b a t c h u n t i l i t i s homogeneous. E x t r u d e and stamp i n t o b a r s .
Typ i c a l Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i es :
F i n a l l y , add t h e f r a g r a n c e e v e n l y t o t h e b a t c h . When u n i f o r m l y
Appearance: Opaque Bar pH (5% d i s p e r s i o n ) : 5-6
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n f o r Persona l Care
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 285
Hand Cleaners
Anti-Bacterial Handsoap
I n n r e d i e n t s : Wei n h t % CalB1 end C1 e a r 3 5 . 0 0 N i p a c i d e PX 0 . 7 5 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 1 . 5 0 Versene 100 0 . 2 0 F rag rance , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q . S . Sodium C h l o r i d e Q . S Water 62 .55 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : B l e n d i n g P rocedure :
100 i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g ves- s e l , d i s p e r s e N i p a c i d e PX i n p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and, w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l / P X m i x t u r e i n t o t h e main C a l B l e n d C l e a r system and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . I f d e s i r e d , t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e system may be i n c r e a s e d w i t h t h e t r a c e a d d i t i o n (0 .05 -0 .25%) o f sodium c h l o r i d e o r dec reased w i t h t h e a d d i t i o n ( 0 . 2 - 0 . 5 % ) o f p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l as needed. T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s :
A c t i v e I n g r e d i e n t : C h l o r o x y l e n o l Appearance: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 6,000-10,000 cps
W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r and Versene
pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n :
Water, Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) .
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-019-01
Waterless Liquid
I n n r e d i e n t s : Wei nht% W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l 3 0 . 0 0 Deodor i zed Kerosene 10 .00 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l Monos tea ra te ) 5 . 0 0 Cal i mu1 se PRS 5 . 0 0 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5 . 0 0 E thoxy L a n o l i n ( 7 5 Mole ) 6 . 0 0 Water 39.00 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l , Kerosene, EGMS, and C a l i m u l s e PRS.
P a r t B: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , E thoxy L a n o l i n and w a t e r . Combine and
P a r t C : Dye and Perfume i f d e s i r e d . Cool A and B, b l e n d be low
Combine and h e a t t o 160F t o m e l t EGMS.
h e a t t o 160F. Combine p a r t s A and B.
11 OF b e f o r e add i ng. F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-009-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
286 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaner, Heavy Duty
Phase A: I n g r e d i e n t s : d - L i monene Cal oxy1 a t e N-9 P i 1 o t SXS-40
Phase B : I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal s o f t AOS-40 Cal f a x 1 OL-45 Calamide C
4bWt 35.00 13.00
4 . 0 0
%Wt 30 .00
4.00 10 .00
4.00
Comments About T h i s Formula: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l can be used i n s t e a d o f SXS-40.
Phase A-Organic Phase: M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . Upon SXS-40 a d d i t i o n , t h e b l e n d i s s l i g h t l y hazy ( t h e b l e n d i s c l e a r when Propy lene G l y c o l i s u s e d ) .
Phase 0-Aqueous Phase: M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d .
Add Phase A i n t o Phase B w i t h v i g o r o u s m i x i n g . A w h i t e creamy p a s t e i s fo rmed. T h i s i s a good grease c u t t i n g hand c l e a n e r .
F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-004-01
Hand Cleaner, Liquid, Soap
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal foam SLS-30 Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide C EGMS C i t r i c A c i d Kathon CG N i p a c i d e PX Water Ammonium C h l o r i d e
Forrnul a t i on #HAN-005-01
%Wt 27 .64
5 .00 3 . 0 4 1 . 7 7 0.09 0 .09 0 . 0 9
62.01 0 . 2 5
SOURCE: Pilot Chemical Co.: Formulary
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 287
Hand Cleaners
Liquid Dispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s L Deodor i zed Kerosene W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l Ca lsuds CD-6 Water Perfume
Wei q h t % 5 3 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 9 .50
32 .40 0 .10
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : Kerosene, W h i t e O i l , and Ca lsuds CD-6. B l e n d and h e a t t o
P a r t 8: Water . Heat s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Then combine and m i x w i t h
P a r t C : Per fume. Cool P a r t A and B m i x t u r e t o 25C b e f o r e a d d i n g
70C.
P a r t A .
P a r t C . Formul a t i on HAN-001-01
Liquid Dispenser Type: Pearlescent
- I n g r e d i e n t s l Cal foam SLS-30 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l Monos tea ra te ) Calamide LL Kathon CG Perfume, C o l o r Water C i t r i c A c i d
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Warm t o 140F t o d i s p e r s e t h e EGMS. 2 . V i s c o s i t y 1,200 cPs.
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-002-01
Liquid Dispenser Type: Pearlescent
m e d i e n t s : Calsuds CD-6 Cal s o f t LAS-99 P i 1 o t SXS-40 O p a c i f i e r Kathon CG Water
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d Forrnul a t i o n HAN-003-01
Wei q h t % 2 5 . 0 0
2 .00 5 . 0 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0
67.60 0 .10
Wei n h t % 1 5 . 0 0
3 . 7 0 1 . 2 5 1 . o o 0 .50
78.55
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co I : Suggested Formul a t i ons
288 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaners
Liquid Soap
I n q r e d i e n t s : Cal foam SLS-30 Cal t a i ne C-35 Calamide C EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l Monos tea ra te ) C i t r i c A c i d Kathon CG N i p a c i d e PX Water Ammoni urn C h l o r i d e Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a :
M i x a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-005-01
Liquid Soap
I n g r e d i e n t s ; Cal foam SLS-30
Weight% 27 .64
5 . 0 0 3 . 0 4 1 . 7 7 0.09 0 . 0 9 0 . 0 9
6 2 . 0 1 0 . 2 5
Weighty? 28 .00
Cal t a i ne C-35 5 . 0 0 Calamide C 3 .00 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l Monos tea ra te ) 1 . o o P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1 . o o PEG 46M 0 . 5 0 Kathon CG 0 .05 C i t r i c A c i d 0 . 2 0 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . I n g r e d i e n t s 1-6 combined and hea ted t o 70C t o m e l t EGMS. 2 . Kathon CG added a f t e r c o o l i n g b e f o r e a d j u s t i n g pH. 3 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (1%) can be added t o a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y
(i n c r e a s e ) . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-016-01
Liquid, Soap, Antiseptic
I n q r e d i e n t s : Cal foam SLS-30
Weight% 27 .42
Cal s o f t T-60 Calamide C EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G1 y c o l Monos tea ra te ) C i t r i c A c i d Kathon CG N i p a c i d e PX Water Ammoni urn C h l o r i de Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 55C t o m e l t EGMS. 2 . Cool be low 50C b e f o r e a d d i n g Kathon and N i p a c i d e . 3 . Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t pH. 4 . Add Ammonium C h l o r i d e t o a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-017-01
5 . 0 0 3 . 0 2 1 . 7 6 0 . 0 8 0 . 0 9 0 . 0 9
61 - 5 4 1 . o o
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 289
Hand Cleaner-LiquidDispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Deodor i zed Kerosene Whi te M i n e r a l O i 1 Calsuds CD-6 Water Perfume
&WA 53.00
5 .00 9 . 5 0
32.40 0 . 1 0
Comments About t h i s Formula: P a r t A : Kerosene, W h i t e O i 1 , and Ca lsuds CD-6.
P a r t B : Water . Heat s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C t h e n combine and m i x w i t h
P a r t C: Perfume. Cool P a r t A & B m i x t u r e t o 25C b e f o r e a d d i n g
B l e n d and h e a t t o 70C.
P a r t A .
P a r t C . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-001-01
Hand Cleaner-LiquidDispenser Type, Pearlescent
I n c l r e d i ents: Cal foam SLS-30 EGMS Calamide LL Kathon CG Perfume, C o l o r Water C i t r i c A c i d
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . EGMS-Ethylene G l y c o l Monosteara te 2 . Warm t o 140F t o d i s p e r s e t h e EGMS 3 . V i s c o s i t y - 1 ,200 cPs.
#HAN-002-01
Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type, Pearlescent
I n n r e d i e n t s : Ca lsuds CD-6 Cal s o f t LA.S-99 P i l o t SXS-40 Opaci f i e r Kathon CG Water
F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-003-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Formulary
SbWt 25.00
2.00 5 . 0 0 0 .20 0 .10
67.60 0 . 1 0
15 .00 3 .70 1 . 2 5 1 .oo 0 .50
78.55
290 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaner, Liquid, SoapAntiseptic
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal foam SLS-30 Cal s o f t T - 6 0 Calamide C EGMS C i t r i c A c i d Kathon CG N i p a c i d e PX Water Ammonium C h l o r i d e
Q& 27 .42
5 .00 3 .02 1 . 7 6 0 . 0 8 0 . 0 9 0 . 0 9
61 .54 1 . o o
Comments About t h i s Formula: EGMS-Ethylene G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e . 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 55C t o m e l t EGMS. 2 . Cool be low 50C b e f o r e a d d i n g Kathon and N i p a c i d e . 3 . Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t pH. 4 . Add Ammonium C h l o r i d e t o a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y .
F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-017-01
Handsoap-Clear Liquid
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal B1 end C1 e a r F rag rance , Dye P r e s e r v a t i ve Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
O/oWt 3 0 . 0
Q . S . Q . S .
1-2 6 8 . 5
Comments About t h i s Formula: 81 end i ng P rocedure :
Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n C l e a r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 cps (No. 4 S p i n d l e f j 10 rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e a s needed.
Typ i c a l Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: C1 e a r , V i scous L i q u i d
V i s c o s i t y f j 25C: 3 ,000 -5 ,000 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 11 .5 -12 .5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide
pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
DEA, Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Sodi um C h l o r i d e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, D y e ( s ) .
Formul a t i on #HAN-018-01
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a r y
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 291
Hand Cleaners
Powder Dispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal s o f t F-90 P i 1 o t SXS-96 Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e Borax C r y s t a l s C o l o r & Perfume
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . B l e n d C a l s o f t F-90, SXS-96, and S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e 2 . Add Borax . 3 . Add per fume and dye b y o v e r s p r a y i n g .
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-006-01
Powder Dispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Sodium S u l f a t e Sodi um S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e Cal s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . T r i t o n X-100 used as a n t i - d u s t i n g a g e n t . 2 . Formula has h i g h e r b u l k d e n s i t y t h a n HAN-007 .
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-008-01
Powder Dispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Sodium Sesqu ica rbona te C a l s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : T r i t o n X-100 used as a n t i - d u s t i n g a g e n t . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-007-01
Weight% 2 . 0 0 1 .oo
86 .80 10 .00 0.20
Wei qht% 71.70 15 .90 12 .00
0 . 4 0
Weight% 85.30 14 .20
0 . 5 0
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
292 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaner, PowderDispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : C a l s o f t F-90 P i 1 o t SXS-96 Sodi um Sesqu icarbonate Borax C r y s t a l s C o l o r & Perfume
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . B l e n d C a l s o f t F-90, SXS-96, and S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e . 2 . Add Borax . 3 . Add per fume and dye by o v e r s p r a y i n g .
F o r m u l a t i o n WAN-006-01
Hand Cleaner-PowderDispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e Cal s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100
Comments About t h i s Formula: T r i t o n X-100 used as a n t i - d u s t i n g a g e n t . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-007-01
Hand Cleaner-PowderDispenser Type
I n g r e d i e n t s : Sodium S u l f a t e Sodium Sesqu icarbonate Cal s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100
Comments About t h i s Formula: 1 . T r i t o n X-100 used a a n t i - d u s t i n g a g e n t . 2. Formula has h i g h e r b u l k d e n s i t y t h a n HAN-007.
F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-008-01
SOURCE: Pi 1 o t Chemical CO. : F o r m u l a r y
__ % W t 2 .00 1 - 0 0
86 .80 10.00
0 .20
S6Wt 8 5 . 3 0 14 .20
0 . 5 0
7 1 . 7 0 15.90 1 2 . 0 0
0 . 4 0
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 293
I n g r e d i e n t s : C a l B l e n d C l e a r F rag rance , Dye P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Hand Cleaners
Handsoap-Clear Liquid
Wei wht% 3 0 . 0 0
Q.S. Q.S.
1 * 00 -2 .00 68 .50
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 81 endi ng Procedure :
Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n C l e a r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 c p s (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed.
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance: C1 e a r , V i scous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3,000-5,000 cps
% Non V o l a t i l e s : 1 1 . 5 - 1 2 . 5 pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i on :
Sodium C h l o r i d e , F rag rance , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, D y e ( s ) . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ,
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-018-01
Heavy Duty
Phase A I n g r e d i e n t s : d - L i monene C a l o x y l a t e N-9 P i 1 o t SXS-40
~ _ _ _ Phase B I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Cal s o f t AOS-40 Cal f a x 1 OL-45 Calamide C
Wei a h t % 35 .00 13 .00
4 . 0 0
3 0 . 0 0 4 .00
1 0 . 0 0 4 .00
Comments about t h i s f o r m u l a : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l can be used i n s t e a d o f SXS-40. Phase A-Organic Phase: M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . Upon SXS-40 a d d i t i o n , t h e b l e n d i s s l i g h t l y hazy ( t h e b l e n d i s c l e a r when P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l i s u s e d ) . Phase B-Aqueous Phase: M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . Add Phase A i n t o Phase 8 w i t h v i g o r o u s m i x i n g . A w h i t e creamy p a s t e i s formed. T h i s i s a good g rease c u t t i n g hand c l e a n e r .
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-004-01
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co. : Suggested Formul a t i o n s
294 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaner, Waterless, Liquid
- I n g r e d i e n t s : ~~
Wh i te M i n e r a l O i l Deodor i zed Kerosene EGMS Cal i mu1 se PRS Propy lene G l y c o l E thoxy L a n o l i n ( 7 5 Mole ) Water
Comments About t h i s Formula : EGMS-Ethylene G l y c o l Monos tea ra te .
om 3 0 . 0 0 1 0 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 6 . 0 0
3 9 . 0 0
P a r t A: W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l , Kerosene, EGMS,and C a l i m u l s e PRS.
P a r t 8 : P ropy lene G l y c o l , E thoxy L a n o l i n and w a t e r . Combine
P a r t C: Dye and Perfume i f d e s i r e d . Cool A 8 B, b l e n d be low
Combine and h e a t t o 160F t o m e l t EGMS.
and hea t t o 1 6 0 F . Combine p a r t s A & B .
1 1 OF b e f o r e add i ng . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-009-01
Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste
I ng r ed Len t-s : Wh i te M i n e r a l O i l Deodor i zed Kerosene EGMS C a l i m u l s e PRS P ropy lene G 1 y c o l E thoxy L a n o l i n ( 7 5 Mole) Water
Comments About t h i s Fo rmu la : P a r t A: I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 4 . Heat P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t s 5 - 7 . Heat
P a r t C : Per fume. Cool " A " and " B ' ! .
%Yt 3 0 . 0 0 1 0 . 0 0 1 0 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 6 . 0 0
3 4 . 0 0
and mix t o 1 6 0 F . and m ix t o 1 6 0 F . Combine " A " and
!tB!! , b l e n d be low lOOF b e f o r e a d d i n g . Package i m m e d i a t e l y , f o rms a p a s t e on c o o l i n g .
F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-010-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co. : Fo rmu la ry
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 295
Hand Cleaners
Waterless Paste
I n s r e d i en t s : O l e i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% C a l o x y l a t e N-9 Calamide CWT d-Limonene Water , D . I .
Wei q h t % 1 . 6 0 0 .40
11 - 0 0 4 . 0 0
34 .00 49.00
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : 7 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 80C w i t h m i x i n g . 2 . S l o w l y add w a t e r w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g .
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-013-01
Waterless Paste
I n q r e d i e n t s : Calamide CWT Cal oxy1 a t e N-9 Laurami ne Ox ide d-Limonene G1 y c e r o l Water , D . I .
Weight% 10 .50
6 .00 0 . 5 0
40 .00 1 . 5 0
41 .50
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1-4, combine and h e a t t o 70C. P a r t B : Combine and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 t o 70C. Combine
w i t h P a r t " A l l . Package b e f o r e c o o l i n g . Formul a t i on HAN-014-01
Waterless Paste
.- I n g r e d i e n t s : Calamide CWT O l e i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% C a l o x y l a t e N-9 d - L i monene G1 y c e r i ne Water
Weight% 5 . 0 0 5 100 1 . 5 0 2 . 5 0
45 IO0 1 . 5 0
39 .50
Comments about t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1-5, m ix and h e a t t o 70C. P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t s 6 and 7, warm t o 80C and add t o P a r t " A " .
Cool and package, b e f o r e c o o l i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-015-01
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Cos : Suggested Formul a t i ons
296 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaners
Waterless Paste
I n g r e d i e n t s : W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l
Weight% 30 .00
Deodor i zed Kerosene 10.00 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l Monos tea ra te ) 10 .00 Cal i mu1 se PRS 5 . 0 0 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5 . 0 0 E thoxy L a n o l i n ( 7 5 Mo le ) 6 .00 Water 34 .00 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 4 . Heat and m i x t o 160F. P a r t B: I n g r e d i e n t s 5 -7 . Heat and m ix t o 160F. Combine " A "
P a r t C : Perfume. Cool "A" and "B", b l e n d be low 1OOF b e f o r e ad- d i n g .
Package i m m e d i a t e l y , f o rms a p a s t e on c o o l i n g .
and "B" .
F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-010-01
Waterless Paste
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% Deodor i zed Kerosene 42.10 Ca lsuds CD-6 13.60 W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l 3 .30 Water 40.40 Kathon CG 0 . 5 0 Perfume 0 . 1 0 Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1-3, combine and h e a t t o 7 0 C . P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t 4, h e a t t o 60C and add w i t h m i x i n g t o P a r t " A " P a r t C : I n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 . Cool A/B, b l e n d be low 40C b e f o r e
a d d i n g . Forms a g e l on s t a n d i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-011-01
Waterless Paste
I n n r e d i e n t s : Calamide CWT O l e i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 85% Deodor i zed M i n e r a l Sp i r i t s G1 y c e r o l Water
Wei g h t % 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 1 .50
45 .00 1 . 5 0
42.00
Comments abou t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : M i x and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1-4 t o 8OC. P a r t 8 : M i x and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 t o 8 O C . Combine w i t h
P a r t " A " . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g .
SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemical Co. : Suggested Formul a t i ons F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-012-01
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 297
Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste
I n g r e d i e n t s : Deodor i zed Kerosene Ca lsuds CD-6 Wh i te M i n e r a l O i l Water Kathon CG Perfume
-_ % W t 42 .10 13 .60
3 . 3 0 40 .40
0 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
Comments About t h i s Formula : P a r t A: I n g r e d i e n t s 1-3, combine and h e a t t o 70C. P a r t B: I n g r e d i e n t 4, h e a t t o 60C and add w i t h m i x i n g t o P a r t " A " P a r t C : I n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 . Cool A/B, b l e n d be low 4 0 C b e f o r e
a d d i n g . Forms a g e l on s t a n d i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-011-01
Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste
Ing red ien ts ; Calamide CWT O l e i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% Deodor ized M i n e r a l Spi r i t s G1 y c e r o l Water
"/t 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 1 . 5 0
45 .00 1 .50
4 2 . 0 0
Comments About t h i s Formula : P a r t A: M ix and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1-4 t o 80C. P a r t B : M i x and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 t o 80C. Combine w i t h
P a r t " A " . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g . Formul a t i on #HAN-012-01
Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste
Jngr_edi e n t s : O l e i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% Cal oxy1 a t e N-9 Calamide CWT d - L i monene Water , D . I .
Comments About t h i s Formula : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 80C w i t h m i x i n g . 2 . Slow1 y add wa te r w h i 1 e mai n t a i n i ng t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g .
F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-013-01
SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co I : Formul a r y
%K!. 1 . 6 0 0 . 4 0
1 1 . o o 4 . 0 0
34 .00 49 .00
298 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste
Ingredi ents; %WtCalamide CWT 10.50Caloxylate N-9 6.00Lauramine Oxide 0.50d-Limonene 40.00Glycerol 1.50Water, D.I, 41.50
Comments About this Formula:Part A: Combine and heat ingredients 1-4 to 7OC.Part B: Combine and heat ingredients 5&6 to 7OC. Combine with
Part "A". Package before cooling.Formulation #HAIM-01 4-01
Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste
Ingredi ents: %WtCaI amide CWT 5.00Olei c Aci d 5.00Triethanolamine 85% 1.50Caloxylate N-9 2.50d-Limonene 45.00Glyceri ne 1.50Water 39.50
Comments About this Formula:Part A: Ingredients 1-5, mix and heat to 7OC.Part B: Ingredients 6&7, warm to 8OC and add to Part "A".
Cool and package.Formulation #HAN-015-01
Hand Cleaner-Liquid, Soap
Ingredients: Wt%Calfoam SLS-30 28.00Caltaine C-35 5.00Calamide C 3.00EGMS 1.00Propylene Glycol 1.00PEG 46M 0.50Kathon CG 0.05Ci trie Aci d 0.20
Comments About this Formula:EGMS-Ethy1ene Glycol Monostearate1. Ingredients 1-6 combined and heated to 7OC to melt EGMS.2. Kathon CG added after cooling before adjusting pH.3. Sodium Chloride (1%) can be added to adjust the viscosity
(i ncrease).Formulation #HAIM-01 6-01
SOURCE: Pilot Chemical Co.: Formulary
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 299
Hot Pour Syndet Bar
T h i s m i l d c l e a n s i n g b a r p r o v i d e s r i c h l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n as a r e s u l t o f Jordapon CI -60 . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o be manufac tured u s i n g h o t - f i l l equipment ; no soapmaking l i n e s a r e needed.
I n g r e d i e n t : Wt% Sodi um Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e (and) S t e a r i c A c i d
(Jordapon GI-60) 80 .0 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (GO-1895) 1 0 . 0 PEG-150 (Carbowax E-8000) 3 . 0 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 5 . 0 Demi n e r a l i zed Water 2 . 0
pH ( 5 % s o l u t i o n ) : 6 . 3
Procedure : W i t h a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 70C. Beg in
p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n when t h e b a t c h becomes f l u i d . M a i n t a i n s low m i x i n g u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d and t h e b a t c h becomes a un i fo rm, nonv iscous , opaque f l u i d . F i l l molds, a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y .
Formula M102
Syndet Bar
Modi f i cation of an example i n US Patent #4,707,288
- I n g r e d i e n t : Sodi um Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e (and) S t e a r i c A c i d
(Jordapon CI -75) Tal low/Coco Soap Water NaCl T i 02 Fragrance BHT N a 3 H EDTA
Formula M103
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
7 6 . 5 1 6 . 7
4 . 1 0 . 3 1 . o 1 . o 0 . 2 0 . 2
300 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap
A m i l d , h i g h - f o a m i n g f o r m u l a t i o n w h i c h i s s i m p l e , y e t o f f e r s l u b r i c i o u s l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l t h a n k s t o t h e Jordapon C I - U P . The Mapeg EGMS p r o v i d e s a b r i g h t p e a r l e s c e n c e t o t h e system. I t can be o m i t t e d i f a c l e a r p r o d u c t i s d e s i r e d .
P a r t : - I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): A Dei o n i zed Water 74 .4
Sodi um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e (Jordapon CI-UP) 3 . 0 Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l AM) 13.0 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Mapeg EGMS) 0 . 5 Na4 EDTA 0 . 1 M e t h y l Paraben 0 . 2
B Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Mafo CAB) Cocamide DEA (Mazamide JT-128)
C Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d
6 . 0 2 . 5
0 . 2 0 . 1
pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2500-3500 cps ( w i t h 0 .6 -0 .9% NaC1) Appearance: Creamy , P e a r l e s c e n t L i q u i d
Procedure : M i x and h e a t p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 65C (150F) . When u n i f o r m ,
add t h e Mafo CAB and t h e Mazamide JT-128. Cool t h e b a t c h t o 40C (150F) , add f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t pH. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n N-201
Hand Cleaning Gel
Wt% Z u s o l a t 1004 25 .0 O l e i c a c i d 4 . 0 C a u s t i c soda (15%) a p p r o x . 3 .0 S h e l l s o l D 40 1 8 . 0 9 , s . t o make 100%: w a t e r , per fume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n B 25/216
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 301
Lotion Hand Cleaner (With Abrasive)
D i s t i 1 1 ed Water B i o t e r g e AS-40 Me thy lpa raben R i t a s y n t I P P a t i o n i c I S L R i t a p e g 150 DS Walnut She1 1 s (Coarse) Kathon CG TEA (50% S o l u t i o n ) Perfume
61 - 5 5 2 5 . 0 0
0 . 1 5 4.00 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 5 .00 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 5 0 . 0 5
pH: 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 3400 cps Foami ng R e s u l t s : Foam n20
0 . 0 M i n u t e 260 85 1 . O M i n u t e 260 95 3 . 0 M i n u t e 260 100
4F: Wa lnu ts d r o p t o b o t t o m a f t e r 1 c y c l e 40F: Walnuts d r o p t o b o t t o m a f t e r 4 weeks 70F: Wa lnu ts d r o p t o b o t t o m o v e r n i g h t
S t a b i 1 i t i e s :
110F: S e p a r a t i o n o v e r n i g h t - a 1 1 w a l n u t s a t b o t t o m C e n t i f u g e R e s u l t s : Separa tes a f t e r 10 seconds @ 1600 rpm D e s c r i p t i o n : 1% R i t a p e g 150 DS W i t h o u t R i t a v e n a 5
SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 : F o r m u l a t i o n 114-24
Mild Hand Cleanser
Mackanate LO-Speci a1 Mackami de PKM Mackern i um 007 M a c k s t a t DM Water , F rag rance g s t o
___ W t % 8 3 . 0
4 . 0 0 . 8
qs 1 0 0 . 0
P rocedure : 1 . Add Mackamide PKM t o Mackanate LO-Special and h e a t t o 70
degrees C . 2 . B l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . D i s s o l v e Mackernium 007 i n wa te r and add t o p r o d u c t . 4 . B1 end u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 5 . Cool t o 50 degrees C . w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Add M a c k s t a t DM and f r a g r a n c e and c o o l w i t h c o n t i n u o u s
a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Persona l Care F o r m u l a r y : Formula
302 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Pearlized Hand Cleanser
Water Sodi urn C h l o r i d e M o n a t e r i c 951A Monamate LNT-40 Monamid 1089 Cerasyn t I P Phosphol i p i d PTC
% Bv Weiqht 6 1 . 4
0 . 3 2 0 . 8 12 .5
1 . o 1 . 5 2 . 5
Procedure :
a t i o n t o 60C. M a i n t a i n 60C u n t i l t h e Cerasyn t I P has d i s s o l v e d . Cool - a d j u s t pH w i t h p h o s p h o r i c a c i d . A t pH 6 . 5 , v i s c o s i t y i s about 2000 c p s .
Formula F-128
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d and warm w i t h g e n t l e a g i t -
Pearled Gel Facial Cleanser
% B y Weiah t Water 52 .5 Sodium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e (25% A c t i v e ) 2 8 . 0 Monamate CPA-40 1 2 . 5 Monamid 1089 3 . 0 Cerasyn t I P 1 . 5 Phosphol i p i d PTC 2 . 5
P rocedure : Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d and h e a t w i t h g e n t l e a g i t -
a t i o n t o 70C w h i l e t h e Cerasyn t I P d i s s o l v e s . Cool and a d j u s t pH l e v e l d e s i r e d . A t pH 5 t o 6 t h e p r o d u c t i s a p e a r l e d , b a r e l y f l o w a b l e g e l w h i c h i s s u i t a b l e f o r p a c k i n g i n t u b e s . Hand l a t h e r i s c o p i o u s , w i t h a so f t - c reamy f e e l . When d r y , t h e s k i n has a s i 1 ky f e e l .
Formula F-156
Facial Cleanser
T h i s h i g h foaming f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s t h e m i l d c l e a n s i n g and a n t i - i r r i t a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s o f P h o s p h o l i p i d PTC. I t s sub- s t a n t i v i t y t o t h e s k i n and e f f e c t i v e c o n d i t i o n i n g a c t i v i t y w i l l h e l p t o m i n i m i z e o r a l l e v i a t e d r y s k i n c o n d i t i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a s i 1 ky t a l c - 1 i ke a f t e r f e e l .
Phosphol i p i d PTC M o n a t e r i c CLV Sodium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e (26%) Water
% BY Weight 2 . 5
1 2 . 5 28 .0 5 7 . 0
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 303
Opaque Liquid Soap
N a t r o s o l 250HHR h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e e f f e c t i v e l y b o o s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s l o w e r a c t i v e s opaque shampoo base. A t a s u r f a c t a n t s o l i d s l e v e l o f o n l y 7.3%, t h e a d d i t i o n o f N a t r o s o l y i e l d s a r i c h l i q u i d soap w i t h a v i s c o s i t y o f 4,000 cps (MPas) ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT a t 30 rpm, 25C) .
LwreL iLen t_ s-:.. Water Sodium C14-Cl6 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e Cocami dop ropy l b e t a i ne, 35% a c t i v e G l y c o l s t e a r a t e N a t r o s o l 250HHR CS h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e P ropy lene g l y c o l G1 y c e r i n Te t rasod ium EDTA S t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e Me thy l paraben
W-e i gh t YC 7 5 I 88
7 . 5 0 6 . 6 6 6 . 6 6 1 . o o 0 . 8 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0
P rocedure : 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Mix u n t i l
f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . Modera te h e a t i n g o r an i n c r e a s e i n s o l u t i o n pH t o s l i g h t l y a l k a l i n e w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n .
2 . D i s p e r s e t h e me thy l paraben i n t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Add t o t h e N a t r o s o l s o l u t i o n . M ix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d .
3 . W h i l e s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t h e w a t e r - s o l u b l e po lymer s o l u t i o n , add t h e s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e , o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , and g l y c o l s t e a r a t e . Heat t h e m i x t u r e t o 80C u n t i l a l l o f t h e g l y c o l s t e a r a t e has m e l t e d and t h e s o l u t i o n has t u r n e d opaque.
s l o w l y t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Formula N09-01W
4 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e c o o l i n g t h e s o l u t i o n
5 . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e .
Transparent Toilet Soap
N a t r o s o l 250HR g i v e s v i s c o s i t y and p s e u d o p l a s t i c f l o w t o t h i s t r a n s o a r e n t hand soap.
Lngred i ents; Water Sod1 um C14-Cl6 Sodi um 1 a u r o y l Cocamide MEA N a t r o s o l 250HR D i s o d l urn EDTA Me thy l paraben
o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e
cs
Wei g h t % 65 .70 2 0 . 0 0 1 0 . 0 0
3 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0
Formul a N09-02W
SOURCE: Aqua1 on Di v i s i o n : N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
304 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Soap Bar for Hard Water(Formula 91-1106)
T h i s soap b a r i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i l d a m p h o t e r i c s u r f a c t a n t t o improve foaming i n h a r d w a t e r s i t u a t i o n s . A d d i t i o n a l l y , t h e a m p h o t e r i c reduces t h e ha rshness o f t h e soap system i n any washing e n v i r o n m e n t . T h i s b a r i s l e s s d r y i n g t h a n a p u r e soap based p r o d u c t .
% by-Weight S tep A : 80/20 B r a d p r i d e Soap Base ( O r i g i n a l B r a d f o r d Soap Works) Q . S . Bentone EW (Rheox) 1 0 . 0
S tep 8 : Water M i r a n o l C2M-SF 70%
S tep C: F rag rance , D y e ( s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e
7.5 5 . 0
Q . S
B l e n d i n g P rocedure : S tep A :
a powder m i x e r .
S tep B :
components i n t h e wa te r w i t h h e a t i n g . S l o w l y and e v e n l y add t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n t o S tep A t o a v o i d wet s p o t s .
S tep C :
mixed, m i l l and /o r r e f i n e u n t i l t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous. E x t r u d e and stamp i n t o b a r s .
T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i e s :
B lend t h e d r y components ( B r a d p r i d e Soap Base, Bentone EW) i n
D i s s o l v e t h e M i r a n o l C2M-SF 70% and any o t h e r wa te r s o l u b l e
F i n a l l y , add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o S teps A and B . When u n i f o r m l y
Appearance: Opaque Bar pH (5% d i s p e r s i o n ) : 1 0 . 0 - 1 0 . 5
CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n :
H e c t o r i t e , Water, D isod ium Cocamphod ip rop iona te .
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n
Sodi um T a l l o w a t e , Sodi um Cocoate and /o r Sodi um Palm Kerna l a t e ,
f o r Pe rsona l Care
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 305
Waterless Hand Cleaner
__ Formu 1 a : A: M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP (ECC Amer ica) Water B: P o t a s s i um Hydrox i de Water C: M i c r o w h i t e 100 (ECC Amer ica) D : O l e i c A c i d Deodor ized Kerosene S o l u l a n 98 Ye1 low P r o t o p e t 2A P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o )
% b y Weigh t
2 . 0 3 6 . 0
1 . o 5 . 0
2 0 . 0
6 . 0 2 5 . 0
3 . 0 2 . 0
P r e s e r v a t i ves q . s .
Procedure :
a t max. s h e a r . D i s s o l v e po tass ium h y d r o x i d e i n w a t e r . Add 8 t o A w i t h medium s h e a r . Add M i c r o w h i t e 100 t o A/B and m ix u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Heat A/B/C t o 60C. Combine D and h e a t t o 65C. Add D t o A / B / C w i t h s low m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and mix u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . M i n e r a l C o l l o i d , a r e f i n e d s m e c t i t e c l a y , e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e emu1 s i on and suspends t h e a b r a s i v e .
S l o w l y add t h e M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP t o t h e wa te r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g
Waterless Hand Cleaner with Abrasive
~~~ Formui a : A: Veegum Pro Water 8 : P o t a s s i um Hydrox i de Water C: O l e i c A c i d C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l 0 ; 1 ( W i t c o ) C l l - 1 2 I s o p a r a f f i n D: P o l y e t h y l e n e P r e s e r v a t i v e
2 . o 3 9 . 4
0 . 9 2 . 7
9 . 0 9 . 0
2 7 . 0
q . s .
Procedure :
a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . M i x until smooth. Add B w i t h c a r e f u l m i x i n g and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m , Add C t o A/B and m ix u n t i l emu ls ion i s smooth and u n i f o r m . Add D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . T h i s i s a medium v i s c o s i t y cream.
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
S l o w l y add Veegum P r o t o t h e w a t e r , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum
Section XI Sun Care Products
306
Sun Care Products 307
After Sun Cream with Aloe Vera and Evening Primrose
I n g r e d i e n t s : Wei qht% A) I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7 .00
I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i no1 e a t e / 01 e a t e ) 5 .00
I m w i t o r 928 (G1 y c e r y l Cocoate) 3 .00
S o f t i s a n 378 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 .00 A l o e Vera L i p 0 Quinone E x t r a c t ( A l o e Barbadens is
M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 1 2 . 0 0
E x t r a c t ) 2 . 0 0 Eveni ng P r imrose 2 . 0 0
8) Carbopo l Gel 1% 15.00 A1 l a n t o i n 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . d-Pantheno l 3 .00 Water up t o 100.00
C) F rag rance 9 . S . V i t a m i n E 0 . 2 0
P r e p a r a t i on : Carbopo l Gel :
Carbopo l 980 (Carbomer) 1 .O% KOH 10% 4.0% Water up t o 100.0%
A f t e r Sun Cream:
b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . (C) i s added a t about 35 degrees C .
(A) i s hea ted up t o c a . 75 degrees C . (6) i s s t i r r e d and
F o r m u l a t i o n 4.1D
W/O Sun Protection Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% A) S o f t i s a n Gel ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 1
(and) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (and ) S t e a r a l k o n i u m H e c t o r i t e (and ) P ropy lene Carbonate) 5 . 0 0
Dynacer i n 660 (01 e y l E r u c a t e ) 1 8 . 0 0 S o f t i san 378 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5 . O O A b i l WE 09 ( P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and ) C e t y l
D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l (and) Hexy l L a u r a t e ) 5 .00
6) Hombitec L5 ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) 3 .00 Euso lex 6300 ( 4 - M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e Camphor) 3 . 0 0
Magnesium S u l f a t e 2 . 0 0 P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s . Water up t o 100 .00
P r e p a r a t i o n : (A) i s warmed up t o c a . 75 degrees C . and s t i r r e d . ( B ) i s
b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o (A ) w i t h an homogen izer . (C) i s added a t about 35 degrees C .
F o r m u l a t i o n 4 .28
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
308 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Sun Lotion
The c o m b i n a t i o n o f E l h i b i n and Lac tomide i n t h i s deep a c t i n g l o t i o n r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n t h r o u g h t h e a n t i e l a s t a s e e f f e c t and l i p i d b a r r i e r r e c o n s t r u c t i o n . The f o r m u l a i s i d e a l f o r a f t e r sun a p p l i c a t i o n s .
Item I n g r e d i e n t s 1 A) Tween 60 2 A r l a c e l 60 3 A r l a c e l 165 4 C e t y l A1 coho1 5 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 6 6 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 7 Phenoni p 8 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 9 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l
10 E l h i b i n 11 Lactomi de 12 C) F r a g r a n c e : T imbuk tu 0/186901
Procedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 8 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. C 008.1/01.96
Wei n h t % 5.00 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 8 . 0 0
66 .40 0 . 5 0 0.30 2 . 0 0 5 .00 5 . 0 0 0 .30
t o 50C,
Light After Sun Fluid
D i s b u t i n - B T , i n t h i s q u i c k b r e a k emu ls ion , p o s i t i v e l y i n f l u e n c e s t h e r e g e n e r a t i v e c a p a c i t y o f t h e s k i n by i n s t a n t d i s m u t a t i o n o f t h e oxygen f r e e r a d i c a l s p r e v e n t i n g t i s s u e damage.
Itern I nc r red i e n t s : 1 A ) Pemulen TR-1
Wei q h t % 0 . 2 5
2 C e t i o l 868 8 . 0 0 3 P a r a f f i n O i l 1 0 . 0 0 4 V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0 5 B) D e i o n i z e d Water 78.15 6 G l y c e r i n 2 . 0 0 7 Phenoni p 0 . 3 0 8 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 0 . 2 0 9 C) Sodium H y d r o x i d e 18% S o l u t i o n qs. pH 6 . 0
10 D) D i smut i n-BT 0 . 3 0 11 F r a g r a n c e : C h i a r a 0/238927 0 .30
P rocedure : M i x phase A) and homogenize f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6 ) t o phase A) and homogenize. N e u t r a l i z e w i t h phase C and t h e n add i t e m s 10 + 11, s t i r . Appl i c a t i on No. A 033. A/01 - 9 6
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products 309
After Sun Lotion
A smooth l o t i o n t h a t adds m o i s t u r e t o t h e s k i n a f t e r s u n n i n g . I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w 1 . S t e a r i c A c i d 2 . 0 0 2 . C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 6.50 3 . Cocoa B u t t e r 1 . o o 4. Wheat Germ O i 1 1 . o o 5 . Tocophery l A c e t a t e 0 , 5 0 6 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2.00 7 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 1 . o o 8 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 68.30 9 . R i t a l o e 1X ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 10 .00 10. G1 y c e r i ne 3 .00 11 I T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) 1 . 0 0 12. A1 1 a n t o i n 0 . 5 0 1 3 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer) 0 . 2 0 14. A c r y l a t e s / O c t y l a c r y l ami de Copolymer 1 . o o 15.Germaben I I E 1 - 0 0 16 . Fragrance q . s . 1 7 , D e f e n s i n e (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t ) 1 .oo Compoundi ng Procedure :
add i t e m 13 w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 80C. S l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 14 and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add o i l t o w a t e r . Cool t o 40C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add i t e m s 15-17.
Combine i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t t o 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-12. S l o w l y
Ref . No. 122-6A
Sunscreen Cream
An e l e g a n t , smooth cream. The sunscreen has an e s t i m a t e d SPF o f about 15 w i t h a l i g h t f e e l and g r e a s e l e s s r u b i n . The f o r m u l a i s s t a b i 1 i zed w i t h A c r i tamer . I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer) 0 . 4 0 2 . D i s t i 11 ed /De ion i zed Water 64.95 3 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 3,OO 4 . Benzophenone-3 5 .00 5 . O c t y l Methoxyc innamate 7 . 5 0 6 . C12-15 A1 k y l Benzonate 7 . 5 0 7 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4 .00 8 . S t e a r i c A c i d ( T . P . ) 2 .00 9 . R i t a b a t e - 8 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e - 8 0 ) 0 .50 1 0 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .50 1 1 . T E A (99%) 0 .65 12.Rovisome C (ROVI B l e n d ) 4 .00 13 . G1 y d a n t q . s . 14.Per fume 9 , s . Compounding Procedure :
D i s p e r s e i t e m 1 i n t o i t e m 2 and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add i t e m 3 . M i x i t e m s 4-10 and h e a t t o 75-80C. Combine phases w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 11. Cool t o 35-40C and add i t e m s 11-14.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A , C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
R e f . N o . 122-124
3 I O Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Sun Milk Reci pe : A Hos tapha t KL 340 N
H o s t a c e r i n DGS M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e C e t i o l SN J o j o b a o i l Walnut o i 1 0-Pant heno l B-Caro t i n A n t i o x i d a n t
B Carbopo l 980 C A l l a n t o i n
A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) G1 y c e r i n C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
D C o l l a g e n KD E thano l F rag rance
Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B. 2 Heat C t o ca . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 Add c a . 35C add t h e components o f D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n .
Formula A V I /3016
W/O-Sun Screen Milk Rec ipe :
W B 1 . 5 0 4 .00 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3 .00 3 .00 3 . 0 0 1 . o o q . s . 9 , s .
0 . 4 0 0.20 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 5 3 .00 1 .60
6 8 . 1 5
3 .00 1 .50 0 . 3 0
q . s .
A H o s t a c e r i n WO 2 . 0 0 A r l a c e l 989 2 .00 M i n e r a l o i l , l o w v i s c o s i t y 10 .00 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 5 .00 Eu tano l G 5 .00 Neo-He l iopan E 1000 4 .00 Neo-He1 i opan 66 1 . o o
B A l l a n t o i n 0 . 2 0 Aquamoll i n BC p d r . h . c . 0 .10 C i t r i c a c i d (10%) 0 . 2 5 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2 . 0 0 Water 68 .15 P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s
C F rag rance 0 I 30 Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . BOC. 2 S t i r s o l u t i o n B i n t o 1 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r u n t i l
3 A t c a . 35C add C t o 2 .
SOURCE: Hoechs t : Gu ide Rec ipes f o r t h e Cosmetic I n d u s t r y
c o o l .
Formula A VI/7300
Sun Care Products 311
Insect Repellent Sunscreen
T h i s l o t i o n c o n t a i n s b o t h U n i r e p U-18 w h i c h i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e r e p e l l e n t a g a i n s t a v a r i e t y o f i n s e c t s , and m u l t i p l e sunscreen i n g r e d i e n t s wh ich p r o v i d e an SPF o f 20+.
Sequence: Raw M a t e r i a1 : 1 Dei o n i zed Water 1 Me thy lpa raben 1 Hampene Na3T 2 Carbopol 934 (2% aq. d i s p . ) 3 U n i r e p U-18 3 Uvatone 2-6 3 E s c a l o l 557 3 Neohel i opan BE3 3 L i p o v o l MOS-70* 3 L i pomul se 165 3 Lipowax P 3 P r o p y l p a r a b e n 4 Dei o n i zed Water 4 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 5 Dei o n i zed Water 5 U n i c i d e U-13
* P a t e n t #4,659,573
P e r c e n t 51 .OO
0 . 2 5 0.05
12 .25 12 .75
7 . 7 5 7 .25 2 .50 1 . 4 5 1 . 4 5 1 . 4 5 0 . 1 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 2 5 0 .75 0 .25
P rocedure : 1 . Heat Sequence #1 t o 80C w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h overhead m i x e r a t
medi um speed. 2 . Heat Sequence #2 t o 65C and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h overhead
m i x e r a t medium speed ( h o l d i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 80C). 3 . I n a n o t h e r v e s s e l m i x and h e a t Sequence #3 t o 8OC o r u n t i l
c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and add t o b a t c h on overhead m i x e r a t medi um speed.
4 . Premix Sequence #4 and add t o b a t c h s w i t c h i n g t o sweep b l a d e a t l o w speed. Lower t e m p e r a t u r e t o 35C.
5 . A t 35C p r e m i x Sequence #5 and t o b a t c h . Cool t o 25C.
SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemica ls I n c . : Formula No, 884
312 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light After Sun Fluid
D i s b u t i n - B T , i n t h i s q u i c k b r e a k e m u l s i o n , p o s i t i v e l y i n - f l u e n c e s t h e c a p a c i t y o f r e g e n e r a t i o n o f t h e s k i n by i n s t a n t d i s m u t a t i o n o f t h e oxygen f r e e r a d i c a l s and t h e r e f o r e p r e v e n t i n g t i s s u e damage.
I t e m : I n n r e d i e n t s : 1 A) Pemulen TR1
%w/w 0 . 2 5
2 C e t i o l 868 8 . 0 0 3 P a r a f f i n O i l 10 .oo 4 V i t am i n-E-Acetate 0 .50 5 B) Water demi n e r a l i zed 78.15
7 Phenoni p 0 . 3 0
9 C ) Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18% s o l u t i o n i n demin.
6 G l y c e r i n 2 . 0 0
8 Imi d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a 0 .20
w a t e r ) q s . pH=6 10 D ) D i s b u t i n-BT 0 . 3 0 11 F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927 0 . 3 0
P rocedure : M ix phase A ) and homogenize f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A) and homogenize. N e u t r a l i z e w i t h phase C) and t h e n add i t e m s 10 + 11, s t i r . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 033.A/01.96
After Sun Lotion
The c o m b i n a t i o n o f E l h i b i n and Lac tomide i n t h i s deep a c t i n g l o t i o n p r o v i d e s s k i n r e g e n e r a t i o n t h r o u g h t h e a n t i e l a s t a s e e f f e c t and l i p i d b a r r i e r r e c o n s t r u c t i o n . T h i s makes t h i s f o r m u l a i d e a l f o r a f t e r sun a p p l i c a t i o n .
I t e m : I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 A ) Tween 60 2 A r l a c e l 60 3 A r l a c e l 165 4 C e t y l a1 coho1 5 I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e 6 B ) Water demi n e r a l i zed 7 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a 8 Phenoni p 9 P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
10 E l h i b i n 11 Lactomi de 12 C ) F rag rance /T imbuk tu 0/186901
Procedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 8 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o
Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. C 008 .1 /01 .96
homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Cosmet ic A p p l i c a t i o n s
50C,
rn 5 . 0 0 3 .00 2 .00 2 .50 8 . 0 0
66.40 0 .30 0 . 5 0 2 .00 5 .00 5 .00 0 . 3 0
Sun Care Products 313
Oil Free Skin Bronzer
Ingredients; Weight% Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 3 . 0 0 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g i n M) 2 . 0 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l (Tego A l k a n o l 16 ) 1 . 5 0 Polydecene 4 .00 C e t e a r y l Oc tanoa te ( T e g o s o f t L i q u i d ) 4 . 0 0 Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e g o s o f t CT) 3 . 5 0
Phase B: G1 y c e r i n B u t y l ene G 1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Phase C: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Oxides
Phase D : F rag rance
1 .50 2 . 0 0
76 .50 Q . S .
0 . 7 0 1 . 3 0
Q . S .
Procedure : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 65C and
m i x . 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 65C. 3 . Add Phase A t o 8 . Homogenize. 4 . Add p i g m e n t s . C o n t i n u e t o homogenize. When t h e p igmen ts a r e
5 . Cool t o 35-45C w i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Add F r a g r a n c e . Sweep m i x . 7 . D ispense .
SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemi c a l Corp I : Suggested Formul a t i on
f u l l y d i s p e r s e d , b e g i n c o o l i n g .
314 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Sun Blocker
- I n w e d i _______ e n t s : A . H o s t a c e r i n DGL
H o s t a c e r i n DGS M i n e r a l o i l , l o w v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e Euso lex 6300 D-Panthenol
B . PNC 400
C . Euso lex 232
D . T r i s Amino Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
E . F rag rance
by Weigh t 1 . 0 0 4 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
1 . 3 0
5.00
2.21 65 .69
q . s
0 . 3 0
Procedure : 1 . M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B. 2 . D i s s o l v e C i n D a t c a . 70C. 3 . S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i 1 c o o l . 4 . A t c a . 35C add E t o 3 . 5 . Homogeni ze t h e emu1 s i on.
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0377E suggested by Hoechst AG ( A V I /7204)
Aculyn 33 Sun Screen Lotion
- I n p r e d i e n t s : A . Montan OV 68
Lano l 37T Dow C o r n i n g 200/350 Euso lex 6300 Solagum L
6 . Water Euso lex 232TS Acu lyn 33 T r i s Amino C r y s t a l s
C . P r e s e r v a t i ve Perfume
___ % by Weight 5 . 0 0
15 .00 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
63 .00 3 .00 3 . 0 0 2 .00
q . s . q . s .
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : Appearance: B r i l l i a n t cream pH: 7 V i s c o s i t y (RVT, #3 /20 ) : 1 5 , 0 0 0
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0386 suggested by Rohm & Haas Co. (PF-037)
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. ; P roduc t Fo rmu la ry
Sun Care Products 315
O/W-Sun Screen Milk
Rec ipe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGL
Host acer i n DGS M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Avocado o i l Neo-Hel iopan E 1000 Neo-He1 i opan BB A n t i o x i d a n t
B PNC 400 C A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c .
C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve
D Fragrance
Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B. 2 Heat C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n .
Formula A VI /7200
O/W-Sun Blocker
Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGL
H o s t a c e r i n DGS M i n e r a l o i 1 , l o w v i s c o s i t y I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e Euso lex 6300 D-Panthenol
6 PNC 400 C Euso lex 232 D T r i s ( h y d r o x y m e t h y 1 )-ami nomethane
Water P r e s e r v a t i ve
E Fragrance
Procedure : 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B . 2 D i s s o l v e C i n D a t c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add E t o 3. 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n
SOURCE: Henkel : Guide Recipes f o r t h e Cosmet ic I n d u s t r y
Formula A V I /7204
Wt% 1.00 4.00 6 .00 1 . o o 9 . 0 0 1 . o o
0 . 3 0 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 5
77 I 05
0 .30
q . s .
q . s .
Wt% 1 . o o 4 .00
10 .00 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 I 50 1 . 3 0 5 . 0 0 2.21
65 .69
0 . 3 0 q . s .
316 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Sun Screen with Organic and Inorganic Screens
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e )
I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/
M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) S o f t i s a n 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2 )
O l e a t e )
B . L u v i s k o l K 30 (PVP) K e l t r o l F (Xanthan) P r e s e r v a t i ve Water , ad
C . Perfume
SPF c a . 10, w a t e r r e s i s t a n t
P r e p a r a t i on : A i s hea ted t o 75-8OC. B i s m ixed and h e a t e d up t B i s e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . A t 30C C i s added.
C e t y l a1 coho1 Euso lex 6300 ( 4 - M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e Camphor) Hombi t e c L 5 ( T i t a n d i o x i de )
t h e same tempera tu
O/W Sun Protection Lotion (SPF 15)
I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e )
I m w i t o r 377 ( G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e / C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e ) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) S o f t i san 649 ( B i s-Di g l y c e r y l Pol y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) Euso lex 6300 ( 4 - M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e Camphor) Hombi tec L5 ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e )
B) K e l t r o l F (Xanthan Gum) P r e s e r v a t i v e
Weight% 5 . 0 0
3 . 0 0 16 .00
5 . 0 0 3 .00 3 .00 3 .00
0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0
100.00
0 . 3 0
9 , s .
Weight% 3 . 0 0 5 .00
16 .00 5 . 0 0 3 .00 3 . 0 0
0 . 5 0 q . s .
Water Up To 100.00
C) F rag rance q . s .
P r e p a r a t i o n :
b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . ( C ) i s added a t abou t 35 degrees C .
( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 degrees C . (B) i s s t i r r e d and
F o r m u l a t i o n 4.2C
SOURCE: Huls Amer ica I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products 31 7
Pre-Sun Moisture Accelerator
A g l o s s y o i 1 -i n-wa te r emu1 s i o n c o n t a i n i ng V i t am i n E , v i t am i n A, R i t a p a n D and D e f e n s i n e t o p r o t e c t a g a i n s t t h e d r y i n g and damaging e f f e c t s o f t h e sun. I n g r e d i e n t s : o/,w/w 1 . R i t a b a t e - 8 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 80) 3 . 0 0 2 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 2 .50 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . 5 0
5 . Tocophery l L i no1 e a t e 1 . 5 0 6 . S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e 1 . 5 0 7. R i t a c e t y l ( A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 1 . 5 0 8 . Tocophery l A c e t a t e 1 . o o 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 79 .65 1 0 . R i t a p a n D ( P a n t h e n o l ) 1 . o o 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer) 0 . 3 0 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0 .60 1 3 . V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e 1 . 2 0 14 . Germaben I I E 0 . 7 5 15 . F rag rance 4 , s . 16 .De fens ine (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t ) 1 . 0 0 Compounding P rocedure :
a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 75C. Heat i t e m s 1-8 t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 12. Cool t o 40C. Add i t e m s 13-16. Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e whi 1 e m i x i ng .
4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 * 00
D i s s o l v e i t e m 10 i n i t e m 9 and s l o w l y add i t e m 11 w i t h r a p i d
R e f . NO. 121-174
Oil in Water Sunscreen Cream
An o i l i n w a t e r emu ls ion t h a t p r o t e c t s a g a i n s t UV-B r a y s . I n a r e d i e n t s : w 1 . P o l y e t h y l e n e 2 .oo 2 . S t e a r i c A c i d 0 .50 3 . R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 6 . 0 0 4. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 12 .50 5 . S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e 1 . 3 0 6 . R i t a b a t e - 6 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 60) 1 .80 7 . O c t y l Me thy loxyc innamate 6 . 5 0 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 6 2 . 0 0 9 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 0 . 2 0 1 0 . S o r b i t a n (70%) 5 . 0 0 11.Germaben I 1 0 .80 12. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0 .40 13 .De fens ine (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t ) 1 . o o Compounding P rocedure :
10 and 11 and h e a t t o 85C. Combine i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t t o 95C. S l o w l y add t o w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g . Add i t e m 12 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m 13.
S l o w l y s i f t i t e m 9 i n t o i t e m 8 w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m s
R e f . No. 121-172
SOURCE: R . I . T . A , C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
318 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Self Tanning DHA Cream(W/O Emulsion)
I n a r e d i e n t s : O i l Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and ) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e
Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) C e t y l D ime th i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801)
O i l Phase 6: Cyc l ometh i cone
Water Phase: Water P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e NaCl P r e s e r v a t i v e s , C o l o r , F rag rance
C o p o l y o l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09)
Weight%
5 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 3 . 0 5 . 0 4 . 0 1 . o 1 . o
4 . 0
69 .2 2 . 0 4 . 0 0 . 8 Q . S
P rocedure : 1 . Add t h e components o f t h e O i l Phase t o g e t h e r . Heat t o m e l t
and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. When d i s p e r s e d , c o o l t o 40C w h i l e m i x i ng .
2 . Add t h e Cyc lometh i cone . M i x . 3 . Add t h e components o f t h e Water Phase t o g e t h e r . Heat t o
4 . A d j u s t pH o f t h e Water Phase t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 , i f necessa ry . 5 . W i t h l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s t r e a m t h e Water Phase i n t o t h e
6 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 35C. 7 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 8 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r homogenizer .
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
40C.
O i l Phase.
Sun Care Products 31 9
Skin Protecting Waterproof Sunscreen
A w a t e r p r o o f sunscreen t h a t p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n by a v o i d i n g f r e e r a d i c a l f o r m a t i o n w i t h D e f e n s i n e .
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . Oc ty lme thoxyc innamate 2 . Benzophenone-3 3 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . S t e a r i c A c i d 6 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 7 . R i t a s i l 190 (D ime th i cone Copolyo 8 . D i m e t h y l Stearami ne 9 . A c r y l a t e s / O c t y l a c r y l a1 amide Cop0 l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer) 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 13.Germaben 11-E 1 4 . D e f e n s i n e (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t )
1
ymer
%w/w 7 .50 3 . 0 0 3 .00 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 1 .oo 2 . 0 0 2 .00
72.60 0 .20 0 . 7 0 1 .oo 2 . 5 0
Compounding P rocedure : Combine i t e m s 1-8 and h e a t t o 70C. S l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 9 .
D i s p e r s e i t e m 11 i n i t e m 10 and h e a t t o 70C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add i t e m 12 . A d d o i l t o w a t e r and m i x . A l l o w t o c o o l and add i t e m s 13 and 14 .
R e f . No. 120-1948
Waterproof Sunscreen
A h i g h SPF sunsc reen l o t i o n wh ich i s w a t e r p r o o f and c o n t a i n s R i t a s i l 190 f o r l u b r i c i t y .
I n n r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer 941) 3 . Oc ty lme thoxy Cinnamate 4 . Benzophenone-3 5 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 6 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 7 . S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 8 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 9 . R i t a s i l 190 (D ime th i cone C o p o l y o l ) 10 .D ime thy l S tea ramine 11 . A c r y l a t e s / O c t y l a c r y l ami de Copolymer 12.TEA 13.Germaben I I E
%w/w 74.90
0 . 2 0 7 . 5 0 3 .00 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 1 . o o 2 .00 2 . 0 0 0.70 1 . o o
Compounding P rocedure : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 and h e a t t o 70C. When c o m p l e t e l y
d i s p e r s e d add i t e m 12 . Combine i t e m s 3-10 and h e a t t o 70C. S l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add to w a t e r phase and m i x . Cool t o 45C and add i t e m 13.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s R e f . No. 121-99
320 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Protection Lotion I n s r e d i e n t : Wt%* K: Dimeth i cone 2 . 0 0
Hydroxyoc tocosany l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 3 .50 P o t a s s i um C e t y l Phosphate (Amphi s o l K) 0 . 5 0 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate
( T i o v e i 1 FIN) 1 2 . 5 0 S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e 3 .50 D i l a u r y l T r i m e t h y l o l p r o p a n e S i l o x y S i l i c a t e 5 .00
8 : D e i o n i z e d Water 63.10 Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 0 .80
P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5 . 0 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 3 .50 Sodi um L a c t a t e 0 .30 L a c t i c Ac id t o pH 5 . 5 q . s .
o l i n o n e (Ka thon CG) 0 . 1 0
Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 . 2 0
C: Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z -
P rocedure :
M i x w i t h a homogenizer o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 r p m . Weigh and dry b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l , add them t o t h e w a t e r and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m ix each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m ix and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . Beg in c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g , a t 40C, add P a r t C . Package a t ambient t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: A v o i d pH o f 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 a s t h i s may a f f e c t SPF v a l u e .
Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C.
Formula f r o m A&E Connock, L t d .
I n n r e d i e n t : A : P r o p y l e n e
TiO2 Lotion
G l y c o l I s o c e t e t h - 3 A c e t a t e ( H e t e s t e r PHA) 10.00 O c t y i d o d e c y l - Neopentanoate ( E l e f a c 1-250) 10 .oo T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and ) B i smuth O x y c h l o r i d e
( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 110) 1 0 . 0 0 B : D e i o n i z e d Water 68.90
Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 0 . 7 0 Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 .30
C : M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l - i none 0 .10
P rocedure : Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m ix w i t h a p r o p -
e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. Dry b l e n d t h e Veegum and R h o d i g e l and add them t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 60 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e i s u n i - f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C, m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and package.
Formula f r o m B e r n e l Chemical Co., I n c . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products 321
Sprayable Sunscreen
I n n r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n AMP-95
P a r t B : O c t y l Methoxy C i nnamate O c t y l Sa l i cy1 a t e Oxybenzone C12-15 A1 coho1 s Benzoate 01 e th -10 S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e D i me th i cone, 100 c s . Pemulen TR-2
% b y Weight
79.20 3 . 0 0 0 .12
7 .00 3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 4 .00 0 . 0 8 0 . 0 5 0 . 5 0 0 . 1 5
P a r t C : P ropy lene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and ) M e t h y l - paraben (and) P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0 . 8 0
D i s o d i um EDTA 0 .10 P rocedure :
Combine A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l wh ich w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine a l l B i n g r e d - i e n t s e x c e p t d i m e t h i c o n e and Pemulen. Heat t o 45-50C t o h a s t e n d i s s o l u t i o n o f oxybenzone. D i s c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and add Pemulen. M i x t o o b t a i n a smooth d i s p e r s i o n . Add d i m e t h i c o n e . Add B t o A w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o o b t a i n a smooth emul- s i o n . Add C . D i sod ium EDTA s h o u l d be added i n c r e m e n t a l l y such t h a t a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o s i t y o f 500-1000 cps i s a c h i e v e d (model RVT @ 20 RPM, #2 s p i n d l e ) .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0320 sugges ted by B . F . G o o d r i c h
Waterproof Aerosol Sunscreen (SPF 10)
I n q r e d i e n t s : % b v Weinht SD A l c o h o l 40 43.65 AMP-95 0 . 3 5 Dermacry l 2 . 0 0 D e i o n i zed w a t e r 9 - 0 0 O c t y l Methoxyc innamate 7 . 5 0 Men thy l An than i l a t e 4 . 0 0 Cyc l ometh i cone 3 . 0 0 Tocophery l A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0 D i m e t h y l E t h e r 30 .00 P rocedure :
s i f t i n Dermacry l -79. M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Add r e s t e x c e p t D i m e t h y l E t h e r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c o m p l e t e . F i l t e r , f i l l and c h a r g e w i t h d i m e t h y l e t h e r .
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Combine SD A l c o h o l 40 w i t h AMP-95. W i t h good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0318 sugges ted by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical (7172-100)
322 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunblock LotionI n t h i s f o r m u l a , Veegum i s used w i t h Rhod ige l Xanthan Gum and
a Xanthan Gum-based d i s p e r s i b l e emu1 s i f i e r t o s t a b i 1 i ze t h e e m u l s i o n and a d j u s t emu ls ion v i s c o s i t y . T h i s c o l d p r o c e s s l o t i o n has a l i g h t f e e l w i t h q u i c k , g r e a s e l e s s r u b - n . The sunsc reen s h o u l d o f f e r c o n s i d e r a b l e p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t sun1 i g h t - i n d u c e d s k i n p rob lems . The R i t a c h o l and F i n s o l v a r e n c l u d e d f o r emol- l i e n c e and r a p i d s k i n a b s o r p t i o n on r u b - i n . I n g r e d i e n t : A : Veegum, Magnesi um Alumi num S i 1 i c a t e
R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum Dei o n i zed Water
W t .%* 0 .60 0 . 1 5
65.45 N o n f a t D ry M i l k (and) Xanthan Gum (and) G l y c e r y l
S t e a r a t e (and) Hydrogenated V e g e t a b l e G l y c e r i d e s Phosphate 0 .80
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 3 . 0 0 B: C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate ( F i n s o l v TN) 8 . 0 0
Benzophenone-3 ( E s c a l o l 567) 5 . 0 0 O c t y l Methoxyc innamate ( P a r s o l MCX) 7 .50 M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) Lanol i n A l c o h o l ( R i t a c h o l ) 4 .00 P o l y s o r b a t e 80 0 . 5 0
C : Z inc Ox ide 5 .00 D : P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s .
Add t h e Veegum/Rhodigel d r y b l e n d t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t - a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g a f t e r each u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . M i x t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l t h e Benzo- phenone-3 d i s s o l v e s . Add P a r t 8 t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l smooth. Add P a r t C and t h e n P a r t D and m ix each u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m .
Sunblock with TiO2I n g r e d i e n t : W t .%* A : D i i s o p r o p y l Dimer D i l i n o l e a t e (Schercemol D I D ) 10.00
C e t y l Oc tanoa te (Schercemol CO) 1 . 5 0 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e 3 . 0 0 G l y c e r y l I s o s t e a r a t e 1 - 0 0 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l 1 . o o T i t a n i um D i o x i d e (and ) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 1 2 . 5 0 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and ) Ce tea re th -20 1 . o o Phenyl T r i met h i cone 1 .50
B: D e i o n i z e d Water 62.20 Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 1 . o o Rhod ige l , Xanthan Gum 0 .30 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2 . 0 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 3 . 0 0
Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70C. M i x C : P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
t h e w a t e r w i t h a homogenizer a t 5000 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and R h o d i g e l , add them t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C add P a r t C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g . Package a t 35C. SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula #367 & Scher Chemicals
Sun Care Products 323
Sunless Tanning Lotion
D. I. Water M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben G l y c e r i n B r i j 7 8 Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic Kessco GMS Kessco C e t y l A1 coho1 Wecobee S S i l i c o n e 200 (350 cps ) G1 ydan t D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e C i t r i c A c i d (50%)
% by Wei a h t Q.S. t o 100.0
0.15 0.01 3.5 0.4 10.0 3.0 2.0 2.5 1 . o 0.25 3.5 Q . S .
M i x i ng P rocedure : P repare w a t e r phase b y a d d i n g w a t e r , M e t h y l Paraben, and
G l y c e r i n . M ix w e l l . Heat t o 160F. P r e p a r e o i l phase b y a d d i n g B r i j 7 8 , Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic , Kessco GMS, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , P r o p y l Paraben, and Wecobee S. Heat t o 165F. Add o i l phase t o t h e wa te r phase. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n . M i x a t 165F f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A t llOF, add G l y d a n t . Premix D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e w i t h w a t e r . Add a t 95F. Mix w e l l . A d j u s t p H ( t o 5.5-6.0) w i t h C i t r i c A c i d .
Tanning Accelerator
D . 1, Water M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben G1 y c e r i n B r i j 7 8 Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic Kessco GMS Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l Wecobee S S i l i c o n e DC 200 (350 c p s ) G1 y d a n t D i hyd roxyace tone C i t r i c A c i d (50%)
% by Weight Q . S . t o 100.0
0.15 0.01 3.5 0.4 10.0 3.0 2 . o 2.5 1 . o 0.25 3.5 Q . S .
M i x i ng Procedure : P repare w a t e r phase by a d d i n g w a t e r , M e t h y l Paraben, and
G l y c e r i n . M i x w e l l . Heat t o 160F. P r e p a r e o i l phase b y a d d i n g B r i j 7 8 , Neobee M-5 Cosmet ic , P r o p y l Paraben, Kessco GMS, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , and Wecobee S . Heat t o 165F. Add o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n . M ix a t 165F f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A t llOF, add G l y d a n t . Premix D ihyd roxyace tone w i t h w a t e r . Add a t 9 5 F . Mix w e l l . A d j u s t pH ( t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 ) w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . SOURCE: Stepan Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
324 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream SPF 9
Phase # : 1 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 1 2% Carbopol 980 aqueous s o l u t i o n 1 P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l 1 Me thy lpa raben 1 P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99%
2 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 2 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 2 Euso lex 232 (2 -pheny l b e n z i m i d a z o l e - 5 - s u l f o n i c
2 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% a c i d )
3 A r l a c e l 165 ( g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100
3 Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d ( c y c l o m e t h i c o n e ) 3 Emersol 132 L i l y S t e a r i c A c i d , NF 3 P r i s o r i ne 2039 (i s o s t e a r y l i s o s t e a r a t e ) 3 F i n s o l v TN (C12-15 a l k y l benzoa te )
s t e a r a t e )
Wt% 29.53 15 .00
5 . 0 0 0 .20 0 . 1 0 0.45
10 .00 0 .02
4.00 4 .20
1 - 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
10 .00 10.50
Procedure :
a t i o n . Heat Phase 1 t o 75-8OC. Combine Phase 2 i n g r e d i e n t s ; m i x t o c l a r i t y w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 70C. S l o w l y add Phase 2 t o Phase 1 . M i x combined phases a t 75-8OC. Combine Phase 3 i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t and m i x t o 85C. S l o w l y add Phase 3 t o b a t c h ; m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s a t 85C. Remove f r o m h e a t ; s w i t c h t o p a d d l e m i x i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n EUS2-47-5
Add Phase 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o main v e s s e l under i m p e l l e r a g i t -
Sun Care Products 325
Sunscreen Cream SPF 12+
Phase # : 1 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 1 2% Carbopol 980 aqueous s o l u t i o n 1 P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l 1 Me thy lpa raben 1 P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% 1 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 2 O c t y l me thoxyc i nnamate 2 Euso lex 4360 2 A r l a c e l 165 ( g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100
s t e a r a t e ) 2 Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d ( c y c l o m e t h i c o n e ) 2 G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e 2 Emersol 132 L i l y S t e a r i c A c i d , NF 2 P r i sori ne 2039 (i s o s t e a r y l i s o s t e a r a t e ) 2 Castorwax (hyd rogena ted c a s t o r o i l ) 2 F i n s o l v TN (C12-15 a1 k y l benzoa te )
P rocedure :
E% 44.23 15 .00
5 . 0 0 0 .20 0 . 1 0 0 * 45 0 . 0 2 5 .00 3 . 0 0
1 - 0 0 5 IO0 4 .00 2 .50
10.00 2.00 2 . 5 0
Add Phase 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o main v e s s e l under i m p e l l e r a g i t - a t i o n . Heat Phase 1 t o 75-80C. Combine Phase 2 i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t and m i x t o 85C. S l o w l y add Phase 2 t o b a t c h ; m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s a t 85C. Remove f r o m h e a t ; s w i t c h t o p a d d l e m i x i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
F o r m u l a t i o n EUS2-93-2
After Sun Lotion
Phase # : Wt% 1 D e i o n i z e d w a t e r ad 100.00 1 T i m i r o n S t a r 1 i g h t Go1 d 4 .00 1 D-Panthenol USP 1 . o o 1 P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l 3 .00 1 P r e s e r v a t i v e s qs 2 Cremophor A6 ( C e t e a r e t h - 6 (and) S t e a r y l
A1 c o h o l ) 2 .00 2 Cremophor A25 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) 2 . 0 0 2 L u v i t o l EHO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) 7 .00 2 P a r a f f i n O i l 8 . 0 0 2 C e t y l A1 c o h o l 1 . o o 2 G l y c e r y l Monos tea ra te 6 . 0 0 2 Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ; 100 c s 0 .20 2 (+-)-'? - 6 i s a b o l o l 0 . 2 0 3 F rag rance CIS
Procedure :
eous. Combine phase 1 , h e a t t o 7O-75CJ add t o phase 2 w i t h s t i r r i n g . S t o p h e a t i n g a t 60C, b e g i n homogenizer m i x i n g . Add phase 3 f r a g r a n c e a t 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Combine phase 2, h e a t t o 70-75C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogen-
326 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream with UVA Protection (Est. SPF=25)
T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s t h e UVA a b s o r b e r s Men thy l A n t h r a n i l a t e and Z i n c Ox ide f o r a s t a b l e , e l e g a n t , high-SPF c o m p o s i t i o n w i t h enhanced U V A u r o t e c t i o n .
A:
B :
C:
jngredJe_n_t: O c t y l Methoxyc i nn i mate (Ne0 He1 i opan A V ) O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e (Neo He1 Men thy l A n t h r a n i l a t e (Ne0 I s o c e t y l A l c o h o l C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Ce G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e PEG-40 S t e a r a t e C e t y l A1 coho1 Tocophery l A c e t a t e
opan O S ) He1 iopan MA)
e a r e t h - 2 0
Z i nc ' Ox ide ( Z i nc Ox ide N e u t r a l ) D i meth i cone
Dei o n i zed Water Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum Propy lene G1 y c o l D i sod i um EDTA
Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l - i n o n e (Kathon CG)
__ W t . % * 7 . 5 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 1 - 0 0 0 . 7 5 0 . 2 5 6 .00 1 - 0 0
64 .70 0 I 50 0.50 2 . 0 0 0.20
0 .10
P rocedure :
M i x t h e w a t e r w i t h a homogenizer a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and Rhod ige l , add them t o t h e wa te r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o ano the r v e s s e l . M ix and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m ix f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 75-8OC. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o p roduce a s m a l l v o r t e x and s t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 40C add P a r t C and c o n t i n u e c o o l - i n g . Package a t 35C.
Weigh t h e wa te r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75-8OC.
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n from Haarman & Reimer Corp .
Sun Care Products 327
Sunscreen Emulsion with Titanium Dioxide
T h i s base i s an i d e a l s t a r t i n g p o i n t f o r sunscreen l o t i o n s . I t i s a v e r y s t a b l e f o r m u l a t i o n f o r any t y p e o f p igmented p r o d u c t .
I n q r e d i e n t : A : D e i o n i z e d Water
Veegum, Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e C e l l u l ose Gum A 1 1 a n t o i n Me thy lpa raben T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) A lumina (and ) G l y c e r i n (and )
S i l i c a (UV-T i tan M212)
B : L e c i t h i n Lanol i n A1 coho1 G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e S t e a r i c A c i d C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s I s o e i c o s a n e (Permethy l 1 0 2 A ) Pol y i sobutene (Permethy l 104A) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d P ropy lpa raben
C : I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea
D: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% Pol y g l y c e r y l m e t h a c r y l a t e
P rocedure :
wt . -55 61 . 9 8
0 . 5 0 0 . 1 5 0 . 0 5 0 . 2 0
8 . 0 0
1 . o o 1 . 5 0 0 .80 4 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 4 . 0 0 7 . 5 0 2 . 5 0 2 . 4 0 0 . 1 0
0 . 2 0
1 . 6 2 3 . 0 0
Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and mix w i t h a homogenizer o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 rpm. Dry b l e n d t h e Veegum and c e l l u l o s e gum, add t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm, w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 70-72C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . M i x t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . Beg in c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g . A t 60C, add P a r t C . A t 40C, add t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Package a t ambient t e m p e r a t u r e .
*As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m Presperse , I n c ,
328 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Gel Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) p roduces a n o n - g r a n u l a r , l ow
p e n e t r a t i o n and h i g h s t a b i l i t y g e l . T h i s f o r m u l a u t i l i z e s an a r r a y o f o i l s and a c t i v e s p r o d u c i n g a p r o d u c t w i t h a non-greasy s k i n f e e l , p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n q u i c k l y and has an SPF o f 4 t o 6 , O i l Phase: wt./, Sweet Almond O i l (Croda) 2 9 . 0 Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 1 5 . 3 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 1 5 . 0 J o j o b a O i 1 ( J o j o b a Growers) 1 3 . 0 Sesame O i l ( P o l y e s t h e r ) 9 . 0 Avocado O i 1 ( A r i s t a ) 9 . 0 C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( P r o c t o r & Gamble) 4 . 0 E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) 4 . 0 O z o k e r i t e 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 . o Carnauba #1 Y e l l o w ( K o s t e r Keunen) 0 . 5 V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0 . 1 V i t a m i n E C o n c e n t r a t e (BASF) 0 . 1 P rocedure :
Hea t , n o t exceed ing 75C, and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Reduce t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
By r e p l a c i n g t h e j o j o b a , sesame and avocado o i l s w i t h l i g h t m i n e r a l o i 1 (28 .8%) and i n c r e a s i ng t h e Cera B e l 1 i na c o n c e n t r a - t i o n ( 1 7 . 5 % ) , one can p roduce t h e same p r o d u c t as d e s c r i b e d above. The f o r m u l a t o r has t h e a b i l i t y t o s u b s t i t u t e t h e i r p r e f e r r e d o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes o f Cera B e l l i n a t o p roduce p r o d u c t s o f t h e same c o n s i s t e n c y . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.
T h i s v e r y economical p r o d u c t o f f e r s good b a r r i e r p r o p e r t i e s
Weigh and add each component o f t h e o i l phase t o a v e s s e l .
Lip Care Balm
and has an SPF o f 4 -6 . Neo H e l i o p a n ( H & R ) i s a s o l u t i o n o f 2 - E t h y l h e x y l - p - m e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e , a U V - B abso rbe r wh ich o f f e r s p r o t e c t i o n ove r a w ide s p e c t r a range and i s c o n s i d e r e d s a f e .
WJ % P e t r o l a t u m W h i t e USP ( W i t c o ) 4 4 . 0 S t e a r y l A1 coho1 ( P r o c t o r & Gambl e ) 1 7 . 5 NF Wh i te Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9 . 5 O z o k e r i t e 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 9 . 5 Deodor i zed Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . 5 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 1 . o P a r a f f i n 160/165 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3 . 0 Neo He1 i opan AV (H&R) 2 . 0 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D) 1 . o P rocedure :
Add a l l components, h e a t t i l l 75C and use l o w shear t o d i s - p e r s e t h e T i 0 2 . Once t h e m i x t u r e i s homogeneous, c o o l and p o u r i n t o mo lds . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t :
o i l s and a d d i t i o n a l sunscreens t o i n c r e a s e t h e SPF. F rag rance and c o l o r s a r e a l s o e a s i l y added. T h i s f o r m u l a i s v e r y s t a b l e and s l i g h t s u b s t i t u t i o n s i n i n g r e d i e n t s can be t o 1 e r a t e d . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
I t i s easy t o i n c o r p o r a t e a c t i v e s such as v i t a m i n s , o t h e r
Sun Care Products 329
Sunscreen Lotion
Formul a t i ng Desi gn and Advantages : T h i s f o r m u l a demons t ra tes t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i 1 i z i ng
p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e sunscreen E s c a l o l ( O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA; Van Dyk) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The p r o d u c t has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n c o n v e n i e n t t u b e s o r squeeze b o t t l e s .
O i l Phase: E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) Amerchol L 101 (Amercho l ) Cera Be l 1 i na (Pg-3 Beeswax; K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monos tea ra te (Henkel ) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l ( W i t c o ) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema)
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 1 ,3 -Bu ty lene G l y c o l (Hoechs t ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Carboxymethy l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s )
Wt% 5 . 6 3 4 . 7 0 3 . 8 0 2 . 7 7 2 . 8 3 1 . 0 0
71 - 6 6 2.90 2 . 8 3 0 . 8 0 0 .80 0 . 2 8
P rocedure :
e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m i x t h e o i l phase a t 75F. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e wa te r phase under v i g o r o u s a g i t a - t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C and p o u r i n t o j a r s .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t you r p r e f e r e n c e ,
w i t h o u t chang ing t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by chang ing t h e o i l and /o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can b e a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l and/or wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e
330 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Milk W/O
I n t h i s w/o sunscreen m i l k , L i p o g a r d a c t s as a f r e e r a d i c a l scavenger and p r o t e c t s s k i n l i p i d s f rom p e r o x i d a t i o n . P e n t a v i t i n D r o v i d e s t h e s k i n w i t h m o i s t u r e .
Itern I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 A) A r l a c e l 989 2 A r l a c e l 481 3 P a r a f f i n O i 1 4 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 5 P a r s o l MCX 6 P a r s o l 1789 7 L i pogard
8 B ) D e i o n i z e d Water 9 Phenoni p
10 P e n t a v i t i n
Wei q h t % 6 . 0 0 1.50
14.00 6 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3.00
57.70 0.50 5.00
1 1 C ) F r a g r a n c e : S o l a r a 0/227632 0 I 30
Procedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d .
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. G 006 .A /03 ,96
After Sun Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : Weight% A ) I m w i t o r 960K, F l a k e s ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE) 4 . 0 0
M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 7.00 C e t y l A1 coho1 1-00 Hos tapha t KL 340 N ( D i l a u r e t h - 4 - P h o s p h a t e ) 5.00
8 ) P r e s e r v a t i ve K e l t r o l F Gel 2% (Xanthan Gum) C i t r i c A c i d Water
C) F rag rance V i t a m i n E
4 , s . 30.00 0.30
up t o 100.00
q . s . 0 . 2 0
P r e p a r a t i on :
b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . ( C ) i s added a t about 35 degrees C.
SOURCE: H u l s Amer ica I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n 4 . 2 D
( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 degrees C . ( B ) i s s t i r r e d and
Sun Care Products 331
Sunscreen Milk W/O
I n t h i s w/o sunsc reen m i l k , L i p o g a r d a c t s a s f r e e r a d i c a l scavenger and p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n l i p i d s f r o m p e r o x i d a t i o n . P e n t a v i t i n p r o v i d e s t h e s k i n w i t h m o i s t u r e .
I t e m : I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 A ) A r l a c e l 989 2 A r l a c e l 481 3 P a r a f f i n O i l 4 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 5 P a r s o l MCX 6 P a r s o l 1789 7 L i pogard 8 8 ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 9 Phenoni p
10 P e n t a v i t i n 11 C ) Fragrance/0/227632 S o l a r a
P rocedure : Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,
Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d . n i z e and c o o l t o 30C.
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. G 006.A/03.96
%w/w 6 . 0 0 1 . 5 0
14 .00 6 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0
57 .70 0 . 5 0 5 .00 0 . 3 0
homoge-
Sunscreen Spray
Phase / Ing red i e n t : % by Wei g h t 1 A ) Cyc lometh i cone DC 345 5 5 . 6 0 2 A ) *Pol y s y n l ane 10.00 3 A ) *Grapeseed O i l 2 . 0 0 4 A ) *Sun f lower Seed O i 1 2 . 5 0 5 A) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 2 5 6 A ) Tenox 6 0.15 7 A) Fragrance Novarome NC-48 0 .50 8 B ) Ceraphy l 230 5 .00 9 B) O c t y l Me thoxyc i nnamate 7 . 5 0
10 B) Oxybenzone 4 .00 11 B) O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e 5 .00 12 B ) T r a n s c u t o l 7 .50
*Po l y e s t h e r Corp. P roduc t M a n u f a c t u r i n g I n s t r u c t i ons:
Combine phase A . Combine phase 8. Add phase B t o phase A . Package.
An easy t o a p p l y s p r a y t h a t l e a v e s t h e s k i n p r o t e c t e d f r o m b o t h UVA and UVB r a d i a t i o n . I t sp reads q u i c k l y and i s c o m p l e t e l y non-greasy. The a n t i c i p a t e d SPF i s 15. The f o r m u l a t i o n e x h i b i t s e x c e l l e n t s o l u b i l i z a t i o n o f t h e oxybenzone, wh ich i s o f t e n seen t o c r y s t a l l i z e o u t .
SOURCE: P o l y e s t h e r C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
332 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream
F o r m u l a t i n g Des ign and Advantages: T h i s f o r m u l a demonst ra tes t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i 1 i z i ng
p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e sunscreen E s c a l o l ( O c t y l D imethy l PABA; Van Dyk) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The cream has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l 1 e n t s k i n f e e l . O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (PG-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) M i n o s i l ( P r i d e S o l v e n t s ) E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) Amerchol L l O l (Amerchol ) C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) G l y c e r o l Monosteara te ( H e n k e l ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) O z o k e r i t e 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e F l u i d 245 (Dow C o r n i n g ) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) B u t y l e n e G l y c o l (Hoechs t ) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Wt% 6 . 0 6 . 0 5 . 1 5 . 0 3 . 0 2 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 1 . o 0 . 2
65.3 2 . 9 0 . 2 0 . 3
Procedure :
e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and mix t h e o i l phase u n t i l homogeneous and a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C i s m a i n t a i n e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase under v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C and pour i n t o j a r s .
A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p r e f e r e n c e ,
w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by chang ing t h e o i l and /or wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can b e added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g
Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e
Sun. Care Products 333
Sunscreen Stick
I n p r e d i e n t : Beeswax M y r i t o l 318 O i l s o f A loha Macadamia Nut O i l C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l Carnauba Wax P e t r o l a t u m O c t y l p-Methoxyc i nnamate V i t a m i n E
Phase : A A A A A A A A
% by We igh t 15 .00 15 .00 1 0 . 0 0 8 .00 1 . 5 0
50.50 5 . 0 0 0 .25
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 75C. Pour i n t o mo lds .
SPF wou ld be 4 t o 6 . Sunscreen i s t h e O c t y l p -Me thoxyc inn -
Beeswax, carnauba and c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l f o r m t h e s t i c k . The Macadamia Nu t O i l h e l p s reduce P e t r o l a t u m ' s t a c k y f e e l . V i t a m i n E s e r v e s as an a n t i - o x i d a n t .
amate.
SOURCE: O i l s o f A loha : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Aloe After Sun Lotion
Formula: A : Water G1 y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e Germaben I 1 8: S t e a r i c Ac id C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) F i n e s o l v TN C e t y l A1 coho1 S i l i c o n e F l u i d 225 Cocoa B u t t e r I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e C : Aloe-Con WG-40 ( F l o r i d a Food P r o d u c t s ) D: F rag rance
% by Weiaht
74 .00 3 . 0 1 . o 0 . 5
8 . 0 5 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 0 . 5 2 . 0 2 . 0
1 . o
q . s .
Procedure:
M i x and c o o l t o 55C. Add a l o e c o n c e n t r a t e t o b a t c h a t 55C. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 45C.
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Heat phases t o 80C. A t 80C add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase.
334 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Tan Oil-A
Formula: SF1 204 SS4267 51 ando l M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) E s c a l o l 507 P r e s e r v a t i ve Perfume
Sun Tan Oil-B
Formula: SF1 204 SS4267 B l a n d o l M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) F1 u i 1 an Sunf 1 ower O i 1 ( L i po) E s c a l o l 507 P r e s e r v a t i v e Perfume
Sun Tan Oil-C
Formula: SF1 204 554267 B l a n d o l M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) F l u i l a n Almond O i 1 S u n f 1 ower O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 P r e s e r v a t i v e Perfume
% by Weiaht 45
5 45
5 9 , s . q . s .
% by Weight 40
5 40
5 5 5
q . s . q . s .
% by Weight 40
5 35
5 5 5 5
q . s . 9 . s .
P rocedure :
c l e a r s o l u t i on .
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t SS4267. Add SS4267 and s t i r t o a
Sun Care Products 335
Wash-Off Resistant Sunscreen Lotion with Crodafos CES
The i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f Crodafos CES i n t h e f o r m u l a e n a b l e s t h i s sunscreen l o t i o n t o a t t a i n h i g h e r s t a t i c SPF and s u s t a i n a more improved w a t e r p r o o f SPF. These improved SPF's a r e due t o t h e a b i l i t y o f Crodafos CES t o enhance o i l d e p o s i t i o n , wh ich g i v e s t h e h i g h e r i n i t i a l SPF, and t o i t s s u b s t a n t i v i t y as a phosphate- based e m u l s i f y i n g system, wh ich r e s u l t s i n b e t t e r r e s i s t a n c e t o wash-o f f t o g i v e t h e h i g h e r s u s t a i n e d w a t e r p r o o f SPF.
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Crodafos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) Crodaco l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Vo lpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) Vo lpo S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) P e t r o l a t u m M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu)
P a r t 8 : D e i o n i z e d w a t e r TEA 99%
P a r t C : Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l
O c t y l Methoxyc innamate Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben
pH=5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = ( R V T S p i n d l e #5, lOrpm, 25C)=13,00Ocps+-10%
Procedure :
Wt%
6 . 0 0 .5 0 . 5 1 . o 4 . 5 8 . 0
70.7 0 . 3
1 . o 7 . 5
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add i n g r e d - i e n t s o f P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temp- e r a t u r e .
N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE; Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-258
336 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water-In-Oil Sunscreen SPF 26
I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 (and ) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s o s t e a r a t e (and ) Hexy l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 Wax 9840) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) M i n e r a l O i l Beeswax Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l
Phase B : O c t y l Methoxyc innamate T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Cyc l ometh i cone
Phase C : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i ves
Weight%
5 .00 0 . 2 5 1 .25 5 . 3 5 1 . 7 5 1 . 2 0 0 . 8 0
5 .00 5 . 0 0 4 . 4 0
69.20 0 . 8 0 Q.S
Procedure : 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy
3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4 . Cool t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C t o A/B s l o w l y w i t h l o w
m i x e r .
ene rgy m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s w h i l e m i x i n g .
6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize.
SOURCE: Go ldschmid t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Sun Care Products 337
Waterproof SPF 30 Sunscreen
T h i s sunsc reen f o r m u l a c o n t a i n i ng Croda s new c o n d i t i o n i ng and e m u l s i f y i n g system Croda fos CES was c l i n i c a l l y t e s t e d by AMA L a b o r a t o r i e s f o r i t s Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r (SPF) and shown t o have a s t a t i c SPF o f 31.66 and a W a t e r p r o o f SPF o f 3 0 . 3 1 . The a b i l i t y o f C roda fos CES t o i n c r e a s e o i l d e p o s i t i o n and improve wash-o f f r e s i s t a n c e appears t o enhance t h e f o r m u l a ' s sunscreen pe r fo rmance and c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e h i g h SPF.
I n q r e d i e n t s : D e i o n i zed Water Carbopol 981
Wei n h t % 6 3 . 2 3
0.13
Croda fos CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and ) C e t e a r y l Phosphate) 6 .50 Benzophenone-3 5 . 0 0 O c t y l Methoxyc innamate 7 . 5 0 O c t y l Sa l i cy1 a t e 5 . 0 0 Men thy l A n t h r a n i l a t e 5 . 0 0 Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e ) 5 . 0 0
NaOH-10% S o l n . 1 . 5 4 BHT 0 . 1 0 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) Diazo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Me thy l
Paraben (and ) P r o p y l Paraben 1 . o o
pH=5.8+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 1 7 , 0 0 0 cps+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e TB, 10 rpm @ 25C). S t a t i c SPF=31.66 W a t e r p r o o f SPF=30.31
P rocedure :
M i x w e l l f o r good h y d r a t i o n . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Add Croda fos CES and m ix w e l l u n t i l a l l i s m e l t e d and homogeneous. Add Benzophenone-3, O c t y l Methoxyc innamate, O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e , Men thy l A n t h r a n i l a t e and Crodamol OS i n d i v i d u a l l y and w i t h good m i x i n g . C o n t i nue m i x i n g a t 75-80C, u n t i 1 homogeneous. Begi n s l o w c o o l i n g and a t 60C add NaOH s o l u t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add BHT and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
Dust Carbopol i n t o t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g r a p i d l y .
N . A . T . C Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-260
338 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)Using Pemulen TR-1 and Carbopol Ultrez 10
I n s r e d i e n t s : A . D e i o n i z e d Water
Methocel E4M Nuosept C D i s o d i um EDTA AMP-95
B . Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV Neo He1 i o p a n , Type OS U v i n u l M-40 F i n s o l v TN Pemulen TR-1 Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0
F rag rance #99189 "Twi stet-" C . C r o v o l A-40
?&by Weight 82.60
0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0 0 .05 0 . 2 5 7 .00 3 .00 2 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 0 . 2 5 0 . 2 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 5
P rocedure : 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. 2 . Combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l .
3 . Cool P a r t B t o 45C. D i s p e r s e l a s t two P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n
4 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 20
Heat m i x t u r e u n t i l oxybenzone has d i s s o l v e d .
P a r t B v e s s e l M ix u n t i l po l ymers a r e d i s p e r s e d w e l l .
m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s appar- e n t . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l a smooth, l u s t r o u s p r o d u c t i s o b t a i ned. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0375 sugges ted by 8 . F .Goodr i ch (P0052)
Sunscreen Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
Rheol a t e 5000 P r o p y l ene c a r b o n a t e
S i 1 i cone 7207 Promulgen D Ceraphyl 494
B. Panalene
C . AMP-95 D . Euxy l K-400
F i n s o l v TN E s c a l o l 507
% by Weight 78.16
0 . 3 0 2 . 5 0 8 .00 1 . o o 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 0 .24 0 . 3 0 2.00 5 . 0 0
P rocedure :
p r o p y l e n e c a r b o n a t e . Heat t o 80C. Combine B and h e a t t o 78C. Add B t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 10 m i n u t e s and add C . Cool t o 40C and add D. Package a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
S i f t t h e po lymer i n t h e w a t e r , m ix f o r 20 m i n u t e s and add t h e
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0313 sugges ted by Rheox, I n c .
Sun Care Products 339
Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 I n q r e d i e n t : Wt%x:
C e t y l A l c o h o l 1 . o o DEA C e t y l Phosphate 2 . 0 0
A : I s o s t e a r i c A c i d 4 .00
D ime th i cone 0 . 5 0 O c t y l Methoxyc innamate ( P a r s o l MCX) 7 . 5 0 O c t y l S a l i c y 1 a t e 4 . 0 0 Benzophenone-3 ( U v i n u l M-40) 2 . 0 0 O c t y l d o d e c y l Neopenanoate (E e f a c 1-205) 10 .00
B: D e i o n i z e d Water 63 .00 Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S 1 i c a t e 0 . 7 5 Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 . 2 5 G1 y c e r i n 4 . 0 0
C: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Me thy lpa raben (and) P ropy lpa raben 1 . 0 0
Weigh t h e wa te r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 85C. Dry b l e n d t h e Veegum and Rhod ige l and add them t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a homogenizer a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. Con t inue m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t and m i x 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh and m ix t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n ano the r v e s s e l and h e a t them t o 85C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . Beg in c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 40C, add P a r t C . Con t inue c o o l i n g and package a t 35C.
Formula f r o m B e r n e l Chemical C o . , I n c .
T h i s i s an e l e g a n t f e e l i n g sunscreen i n a c o l d - p r o c e s s l o t i o n SPF 12 Sunscreen Liposome Lotion
c o n t a i n i ng 1 i posomes f o r l o n g e r 1 a s t i ng p r o t e c t i o n I I n g r e d i e n t : _____ W t .%* A: D e i o n i z e d Water 5 8 . 5 3
Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 1 . 4 0 Rhodi g e l Xanthan Gum 0 . 1 8 C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0 . 5 6
B : G l y c e r i n , 99% 3 . 0 0 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) G l y c e r i n ( a n d ) Ch lo rophenes in
(and) Me thy l paraben ( K i 11 i t o 1 ) 3 . 0 0 Water (and) O c t y l Methoxyc innamate ( a n d ) Phenyl
T r i m e t h i c o n e (and) Cyc lometh icone ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n a l (and) Phosphog lyce r ides ( a n d ) Phenoxyethano l ( a n d ) Me thy lpa raben (and) E t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) P ropy lpa raben (and) B u t y l p a r a b e n (Sansur f OMC) 2 3 . 3 3
Water ( a n d ) O c t y l Methoxyc innamate ( a n d ) Soy Phospho- g l y c e r i d e s (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Tocophery l A c e t a t e (and) Me thy lpa raben (and) P ropy lpa raben (and) E t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n (Sunscreen Liposomes) 1 0 . 0 0
Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m ix w i t h a p r o p - e l l e r s t i r r e r a t 1800 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum, Rhod ige l and CMC and add them t o t h e w a t e r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 60 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm. Reduce t h e m i x e r speed t o p roduce a s l i g h t v o r t e x and add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Package. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co . , Inc. : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s Formula from C o l l a b o r a t i v e L a b o r a t o r i e s
340 Costlietic and Toiletry Formulations
Water-Resistant Suntan Lotion
Formula: A :
% by Weigh t
Dei o n i zed Water Versene Powder Carbomer 934 B : G l y c e r i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l Me thy lpa raben E t h y l pa raben C : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Xanthan Gum D: S o l u t i o n o f 10% E t h o c e l (Dow) and D i i s o p r o p y l A d i p a t e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e S t e a r i c Ac id D i m e t h i cone O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA W h i t e F o n o l i n e P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) C e t y l A l c o h o l E : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne F : Dei o n i zed Water D o w i c i l 200 G: Perfume
60.90 0 . 0 5 0 . 1 5
3 .00 1 . o o 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 5
2 . 0 0 0 . 1 0
10 .00 10.00
3 .00 1 .oo 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 1 . 5 0 1 . o o 1 . o o
1 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
1 . o o 0 . 1 0
0 . 1 5
P rocedure :
S p r i n k l e i n Carbomer and m ix r a p i d l y . S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 80C. M i x B phase, h e a t t o 80C; add t o A when A i s above 60C. M i x C, add t o A a t 60C. M i x D, h e a t t o 80C, add t o w a t e r phase when b o t h a t 80C. M i x E, add t o b a t c h , m ix 10 m i n . , s t a r t t o c o o l . A t 45C, add F, t h e n per fume o i l .
SOURCE: Wi tco C a r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
B e g i n m i x i n g w a t e r w i t h o u t h e a t ; add Versene and d i s s o l v e .
Sun Care Products 341
Zinc Oxide Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.2)I n g r e d i e n t : W t .%* A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 2 . 5 0
PEG-40 S t e a r a t e 0 . 7 5 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 0 . 7 5 T r i c o n t a n y l PVP 2 . 0 0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s 5 . 0 0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0 0 D ime th i cone 2 . 0 0
B : Z i n c Ox ide ( Z i n c Ox ide N e u t r a l ) 10 .00 C : D e i o n i z e d Water 6 5 . 3 5
Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 0 . 7 5 Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum 0 . 5 0 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 5 . 0 0 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0
D: DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) I o d o p r o p y n y l B u t y l c a r b a m a t e 0 . 2 0 L a c t i c A c i d , 88% 0 . 1 0 Weigh t h e P a r t C w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m ix w i t h
a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r o p e r a t i n g a t 1800 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and Rhod ige l and add them t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Beg in h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r phase t o 80C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add P a r t s A+B t o P a r t C and homogenize a t 5000 rpm u n t i l u n i f o r m . T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o produce a s m a l l v o r t e x , B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 25-3OC.
- I m r e d i e n t : Sunscreen Lotion Using Micronized TiO2
A : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l I s o c e t e t h - 3 A c e t a t e C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate Casein ( a n d l Xanthan Gum (Tensami 306) P ropy lpa raben ( T r i s e p t P) .
Aluminum S i B: D e i o n i z e d Water
Veegum, Magnesi urn C: M e t h y l G luce th -20
G1 y c e r i n Me thy lpa raben ( T r T i t a n i um D i o x i de
D: D e i o n i z e d Water
s e p t M) M i c r o T i t a n
I r n i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( T r i s t a t I U ) E : Sodium L a c t a t e
i c a t e
um D i o x i d e MT-5OOB)
W t . % * 8 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 1 . 5 0 0 . 2 5
67.40 0 . 7 0 5 . 0 0 3 .00 0 . 2 5 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 . 3 0 0 . 6 0
Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 7 5 C . M i x t h e wa te r w i t h a homogenizer a t 5000 rpm. Add t h e Veegum t o t h e wa te r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d - i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t them t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t s B+C and m ix f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 75C. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . Beg in c o o l i n g w i t h c o n t i n u o u s , s l o w m i x i n g . M i x t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s and add them a t 40C, t h e n add P a r t E. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 35C.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . : Formulas Haarman & Re imer /T r i -K *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s .
342 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream (PABA/Oxybenzone Free)Estimated SPF=20
I n n r e d i e n t : A : O c t o c r y l e n e (Neo H e l i o p a n 303)
O c t y l Methoxyc innamate (Neo He I s o c e t y l A l c o h o l C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and ) Ce tea re G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e PEG-40 S t e a r a t e D i m e t h i cone C e t y l A l c o h o l Tocophery l A c e t a t e
B: Z i n c Ox ide C : D e i o n i z e d Water
i opan A V )
h-20
Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e Rhodi g e l , Xanthan Gum P r o p y l ene G l y c o l D i s o d i um EDTA
D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l (and ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and ) Me thy lpa raben (and ) P ropy lpa raben
W t I %* 7 . 0 0 7 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 2 .00 3 .00 1 .oo 1 . 0 0 0 .75 0 . 2 5 6 . 0 0
65.30 0 .50 0 . 5 0 2 .00 0 .20
1 .oo
P rocedure :
p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r o p e r a t i n g a t 1800 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and Rhod ige l and add them t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Beg in h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add P a r t s A+B t o P a r t C and homogenize a t 5000 r p m u n t i l u n i - f o r m . T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p roduce a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 25-28C.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegum Formula f r o m Haarman &
Weigh t h e P a r t C w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m ix w i t h a
Reimer Corp.
Section XIIMiscellaneous
343
344 Costnetic and Toiletry Formulations
Fluoride Dentifrice*
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cal c i um py rophospha te S o r b i t o 1 , 70% aq. s o l n . Sodi um l a u r y l s u l f a t e Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Sodi urn s a c c h a r i ne Stannous f l u o r i d e H e x e t i d i n e F1 a v o r i ng Water
% b y Weight 45.00 20.00 1.20 0.60 0.10 0.40 0.20 0.75
31.75
*UK P a t e n t 2,001,526A h e l d b y W i l l i a m R . Warner Co. L t d . (1979)
Mouthwash*
I n g r e d i e n t s : E t h a n o l
% b y Weight 10.00
G l y c e r o l 5 .00 E t h o x y l a t e d h i g h - p u r i t y c a s t o r o i l (Cremophor EL) 0.25 Z i n c C i t r a t e 0.15 Hexet i d i ne F l a v o r i n g , s a c c h a r i n e Water
0.20 0.10
t o 100.00
*European P a t e n t 0,049,830 A2 h e l d by P r o f e s s o r Hans Muehlmann (1982)
Gum-Massage-Gel*
I n q r e d i e n t s : Water A1 1 a n t o i n Pan theno l C e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e Hexet i d i ne M e t h y l c e l l u l ose Peppermi n t o i 1
% by We iqh t 87.69
1 . o o 5.00 0.01 0.10 6.00 0.20
* S w i s s P a t e n t 622,945 h e l d by Hans Lukaschek and P r o f e s s o r Man f red Mai e r ( 1 981 )
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Miscellaneous 345
Glycerol Gel Base
Other ingredients may be incorporated as desired.
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water, d e i o n i z e d S t a b i l e z e 06
G l y c e r i n e A d d i t i v e s Germa l l I 1
AMP-95
% b y Weight 9 . 0 0 0 .50 0 . 5 0
8 9 . 7 0
0 . 3 0 q . s .
Procedure: D i s p e r s e S t a b i l e z e i n wa te r w i t h s t i r r i n g f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s .
Heat t h e d i s p e r s i o n t o 70-80C f o r 15 t o 20 m i n u t e s , u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g o c c u r s . S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add AMP w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add g l y c e r i n e s l o w l y o v e r 10 m i n u t e s w i t h s t i r r i n g . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m g e l i s o b t a i n e d . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0244E sugges ted by I S P
Aculyn 33 Fluid Gel Emulsion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water
A c u l y n 33 I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea EDTA Na2
% by Weight t o 100%
2 .50 10.00
0 .30 0 . 1 5
8. AMP-95 2 .50
P rocedure : M ix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d .
P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : Appearance: F1 u i d g e l pH: 7 . 3 4 V i s c o s i t y : 700 cps
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0387 sugges ted by Rohm & Haas C o . (PF-039)
SOURCE: Angus Cherni c a l CO. : P r o d u c t Formul a r y
346 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil Liposome Gel
I n n r e d i e n t s : Phase 1 : Water , dem.
Pan theno l
Phase 2 : A l c o h o l
Phase 3 : U l t r e z 1 0
Phase 4 : J o j o b a O i l T i t a n i um D i o x i d e
Phase 5 : T r i s Amino Water , dem.
Phase 6 : N a t i p i d e I 1
Phase 7 : P r e s e r v a t i ves, Perfume
46 by Weight ad 100.00
10.00
13 .30
0 . 8 0
5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
q . s . 5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
q . s .
M a n u f a c t u r e : 1 . M a n u f a c t u r i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 2 . S l o w l y add phase 2 t o phase 1 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 3 . S l o w l y add phase 3 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 4 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . 5 . Add phase 4 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 6 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . 7 . Add phase 5 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 8 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . 9 . Add phase 6 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 1 0. Homogeni ze t h e m i x t u r e i n t ens i ve 1 y . 11.Add phase 7 and homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y f o r a
s h o r t t i m e .
F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0376E sugges ted by Rhone-Poulenc R o r e r .
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y
Miscellaneous 347
Ritavena 5 (1.0%)/Acritamer 934 (1.0%) Blend
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water 2 . Me thy lpa raben
P a r t B : 3 . R i t a v e n a 5 4 . D i s t i l l e d Water , ( 1 O O C )
P a r t C : 5 . A c r i t a m e r 934 6 . D i s t i l l e d Water
P a r t D: 7 . G l y d a n t 40/700 8 . NaOH (20% S o l u t i o n )
%w/w
0 . 0 0 0 . 1 5
1 . o o 10 .00
1 . o o 75.80
0 . 2 5 1 . 8 0
Compoundi ng P rocedure :
m i n u t e s . M i x A and B. Add C . A d j u s t p H t o 7 . 0 w i t h NaOH s o l u t i o n . Combine. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
F o r m u l a t i o n 11 1-1 17
Premix A i n h o t w a t e r b a t h . Premix C . M i x B i n B l e n d e r f o r 2
Gel Stick
A s o l i d g e l s t i c k o b t a i n e d by u s i n g Behenoyl L a c t y l a t e and Propy lene G l y c o l . The a d d i t i o n o f R i t a v e n a 5 adds s l i p and g l i d e f o r a p p l i c a t i o n , and reduces c r u m b l i n g o f edges. The R i t a v e n a 5 a l s o reduces s y n e r i s i s o f t h e g l y c o l .
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A: 1 . Behenoyl L a c t y l a t e 2 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 3 . R i t a CA
P a r t 8: 4 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 5 . R i t a v e n a 5
P a r t C: 6 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l u t i o n )
w 15.00 70.00
3 . 0 0
6 .48 1 . o o
4 .52
Compounding P rocedure : Weigh and h e a t P a r t A t o 170F. A l l i t e m s s h o u l d b e l i q u i d .
M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Premix P a r t B i n a B l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x . A d j u s t pH t o 8 . 5 w i t h P a r t C . Package w h i l e f l u i d .
M e l t p o i n t ca . 5 5 C . F o r m u l a t i o n 11 4-1 11
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p , : R i t a v e n a 5 : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section XIII Trade-Named Raw Materials
348
Trade-Named Raw Materials 349
RAW MAT E R I ALS
A b i l AV-20, B 8851 , B 8852, B 88183
A b i l EM-90
A b i l OSW 12
A b i l Quat 3270, 3272, 3474
A b i l S-201
A b i l Wax 2440
A b i l Wax 9800
A b i 1 Wax 9801, 9840
A b i 1 WE-09
A b i l 100, 350
A - C Copolymer 400, 400A
A c e t u l a n
A c i d Phytosome
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
Phenyl t r i m e t h i cone Go1 dschmi d t
C e t y l d i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1 Go1 dschmi d t
Cyc l ometh i c o n e / d i me th i - Go1 dschmi d t c o n o l / d i m e t h i cone
Q u a t e r n i um-80 Go1 dschmi d t
D i m e t h i cone /sod i um PG Go1 dschmi d t p r o p y l d i m e t h i c o n e / t h i o - s u l f a t e copolymer
Behenoxy d i m e t h i c o n e Go1 dschmi d t
S t e a r y l d i m e t h i c o n e Go1 dschmi d t
C e t y l d i m e t h i cone Go1 dschmi d t
Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 - i s o s t e a r a t e / Go1 dschmi d t c e t y l d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l / h e x y l 1 a u r a t e
D i m e t h i c o n e Go1 dschmi d t
E t h y l e n e - v i n y l a c e t a t e A1 1 i ed-Si g- copolymer
A c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l i n a1 coho1 Amerchol
Phosphol i p i d s L i PO
A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 9A, 617, P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7A
A c r i tamer 934 Carbomer 934
A c r i tamer 940 Carbomer 940
A c r i tamer 941 Carbomer 941
Acudyne 255, 41%
A c u l y n 22, 33
A1 1 i ed-Si g -
RITA
RITA
RITA
Rohm & Haas
Rohm & Haas
350 Cosrnetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW M A T E R I A L S
Adogen MA-1 08
Adol 52NF
Adol 62, 66
Advantage CP
A e r o s i l 200
Agent 1829-50
A l d o MS
A l d o MSA
A1 f o n i c 141 2-A
A1 kamide DC 212/S
A lkamu ls GMS
A1 kamul s MM/M
A1 kamul s PSML-80
A1 oe-Con WG-40
A1 oe-Moi s t
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
D i m e t h y l s t e a r a m i ne
C e t y l a1 c o h o l
F a t t y a1 c o h o l
Fumed s i l i c a
Compl ex o f c h e m i c a l s
G l y c e r y l f a t t y a c i d e s t e r
G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e & PEG-1 00 s t e a r a t e
Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
A1 kano l ami de
A1 oe
A1 oe
A l o e Vera L i p o Quinone E x t r a c t
A l u g e l OF30 A 1 umi num h y d r o x i de
SOURCE
W i t c o
W i t c o
I S P
Degussa
Stepan
Lonza
Lonza
V i s t a
Rhone-
Rhone-
Rhone-
Rhone-
F l o r i d a
T e r r y
T e r r y
G i u l i n i
Amandul i ne SG Hydro1 yzed sweet almond p r o t e i n RITA
Amaranth 85E123 D y e s t u f f suspens ion 1% BAS F
Amerchol L-101 M i n e r a l o i l & l a n o l i n a l c o h o l Amerchol
Ammonyx GA-70 PG Amine o x i d e Stepan
Ammonyx GA-SO/GA-70PG Amine o x i d e Stepan
Ammonyx 4 Amine o x i d e Stepan
Ammonyx 4B S t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e Stepan
Trade-Named Raw Materials 351
RAW MATERIALS
A m e r l a t e P
A m i l a n GST 40
Amphisol A
Amphisol K
Amp homer
Arnphomer 28-4910
AMP R e g u l a r , AMP-95
Ampholyt J B 130/K
Amphosol CA, CG
A n t a r o x CO 530
A n t i l 141 L i q u i d
A n t i l 171
A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h c
A rgono l
A r i s t o f 1 ex A60%
A r l a c e l 60
A r l a c e l 165
A r l a c e l 186
A r l a c e l 481
A r l a c e l 989
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
L a n o l i n f a t t y a c i d / e s t e r Arnerchol
DATEM Go1 dschmi d t
G i vaudan
P o t a s s i um c e t y l phospha te G i vaudan
Octylacrylamide/acrylates/ Nat S t a r c h b u t y l a m i n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l - a t e copolymer
Nat S t a r c h
2-ami no-2-methy l -1 -p ropano l Angus
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne Hul s
Stepan
Nonoxynol 6 I S P
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l & PEG-55 Go ldschmid t P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l O l e a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e
PEG-18 G l y c e r o l o l e a t e c o c o a t e Go ldschmid t
E t h y l enedi ami ne t e t r a a c e t i c Hoechst a c i d sodium s a l t
V A / c r o t o n a t e s copo lymer , Hoechst i s o p r o p y l a l c o h o l
S o r b i t a n monos tea ra te I C 1
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e & PEG-100 I C 1 s t e a r a t e
G1 y c e r o l monool e a t e I C 1
G l y c e r y l s o r b i t a n o l e o s t e a r a t e I C 1
PEG-7 hyd rogena ted c a s t o r o i l I C 1
A r l a c e l 1689 P o l y g l y c e r i n & s o r b i t o l I C 1
352 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MAT E R I A LS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
A r l a m o l HD Isohexadecane I C 1
A r o s u r f 66-PE12 S u r f a c t a n t Sherex
Arquad T-50 T a l l o w t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e & Akzo i s o p r o p y l a l c o h o l
Avanel S-150 A n i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t PPG
Avanel 5-150 CG Sodium C12-15 p a r e t h - 1 5 PPG
B i o t e r g e AS-40 Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e
Balsam HF-F-95-14276 F r a g r a n c e
B e l s i l DMC 6032 D ime th i cone c o p o l y o l
Benol W h i t e m i n e r a l o i 1
Bentone EW Hec to r ; t e c l a y
Bentone Gel CAO, SS71 R h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e
B i o c a r e Polymer HA-24
B i o c a r e SA A1 bumen/Hyalur i c a c i d / D e x t r a n s u l f a t e
B i r o n B-50
B i r o n ESQ B i OC1
B1 ando l M i n e r a l o i l
B r i j 78 S t e a r e t h - 2 0
B r i t o l 9NF W h i t e m i n e r a l o i 1
B r o n i dox L/15
Brooksome SOD
Stepan
Hogan
Wac ke r
W i t c o
Rheox
Rheox
Stepan
Stepan
Rona
Rona
W i t c o
I C 1
W i t c o
Brooks
Brookswax P Brooks
Trade-Named Raw Materials 353
RAW M A T E R I A L S CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Brown Red Shade 1654
Brown Umber Shade 1985
B u r s t , RSD-10 Defoamer
B u t y l Carb i t o 1 S o l v e n t
B u t y l C e l l o s o l v e Sol v e n t
C19-011 D&C Red #7 Ca Lake C19-022 D&C Red #6 Ba Lake
SOURCE
Hydro1 abs
Un ion Carb
Un ion Carb
Rona
Calamide C Coconut d e r i v e d ami de P i l o t
Calamide CWT Super amide P i 1 o t
Calamide F Modi f i ed ol eami de DEA P i l o t
Calamide LL L i q u i d 1 aurami de DEA P i l o t
Calamide 0 Modi f i ed coco-01 e i c d i e t h a n o l - P i 1 o t amide 100%
Cal b l e n d C 1 e a r E t h e r s u l f a t e based c o n c e n t r a t e P i l o t
Cal b l end P e a r l P e a r l e s c e n t c o n c e n t r a t e P i l o t
C a l e n d u l a O i l CLR R i c h t e r
C a l f a x IOL-45 D i s u l f o n a t e d a1 k y l d i p h e n y l P i l o t e t h e r
Cal foam ALS-30 Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e 30% P i l o t
Cal foam EA-603 Ammoni um l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e P i l o t
Cal foam ES-301, ES-302 Sodi um l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e 30% P i l o t ES-303
Cal foam SLS-30 Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e 30% P i 1 o t
Cal foam TLS-40 TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e 40% P i l o t
Cal i mu1 se PRS I s o p r o p y l 1 i near a1 k y l benzene P i l o t s u l f o n a t e 90%
C a l o x y l a t e N-9 Nonyl pheno l e t h o x y l a t e P i l o t
354 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MAT E R I ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
C a l s o f t AOS-40, F-90 L i n e a r a1 k y l a t e s u l f o n a t e
Cal s o f t L-40 L i n e a r a1 k y l benzene s u l f o n a t e
Cal s o f t LAS-99, T-60 L i n e a r a1 k y l a t e s u l f o n a t e
Cal t a i ne C-35 Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
Captex 300 F a t t y a c i d e s t e r (med. c h a i n )
Carbopol ETD 2001, Car bome r ETD 2020
Carbopol U l t r a 10 Carbomer
Carbopol 934 Carbomer 934
Carbopol 940 Carbomer 940
Carbopol 941 Carbomer 941
Carbopol 980 Carbomer 980
Carbopol 981 Carbomer 981
Carbopol 1342 Carbomer 1342
Carbopol 2984 Carbomer 2984
Carbowax E-8000 PEG-1 50
C a r d r e T i 02 /Z -Coa t /Oc ty l me thoxyc i nnamate D i s p e r s i on
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l
Carnauba Wax
Carnauba #1 Y e l l o w
C a r r o t t O i l CLR
C a r s i m i de SAL-7 Laurami de DEA
Carsmol ALS Ammoni um 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e
Castorwax MP80 Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
C e l l o s i ze H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
SOURCE
P i 1 o t
P i l o t
P i l o t
P i l o t
C a p i t a l
Goodr i c h
Goodr i c h
Goodr i c h
Good r i ch
G o o d r i c h
Good r i ch
G o o d r i c h
G o o d r i c h
Goodr i c h
Card re
W i t c o
Keumen
Keunen
R i c h t e r
Lonza
Lonza
CasChem
Union Carb
Trade-Named Raw Materials 355
RAW MATER1 ALS
C e l l o s i z e QP 30,00OH, QP 52,000H
Cel q u a t H-100, L-200
C e l q u a t SC-230M, sc-24oc
Cerarni de Cornpl ex CLR
Ceraphyl -368
Ceraphyl 494
Ceraphyl 868
Cerasyn t I P
Ceres i ne Wax 130/135
C e t i o l B
C e t i o l HE
C e t i o l 3600
C e t i o l LC
C e t i o l MM
C e t i o l PGL
C e t i o l SN
C e t i o l V
C e t i o l 868
C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 c o h o l
C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 c o h o l
Charnorni 1 e O i 1
Ci t rno l 316 TM
C i t r o f 1 ex-2
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
Pol y q u a t e r n i um-4
P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-10
O c t y l p a l m i t a t e
Emu1 s i f i e r
Ernoll i e n t
Emu1 s i f i e r
Emol l i e n t e s t e r s
PEG-7 g l y c e r y l c o c o a t e
Emol l i e n t e s t e r s
Emol 1 i e n t e s t e r s
M y r i s t y 1 m y r i s t a t e
E m o l l i e n t e s t e r s
C e t e a r y l i sononanoa te
Decyl o l e a t e
O c t y l s t e a r a t e
1618
T r i e t h y l c i t r a t e
SOURCE
Un ion Carb
N a t i o n a l
N a t i o n a l
R i c h t e r
ISP/Van Dyk
ISP/Van Dyk
ISP/Van Dyk
ISP/Van Dyk
Keunen
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Keunen
P r o c t o r &
Dragoco
M o r f 1 ex
356 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER1 ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
C1 a r i s k i n Yeast e x t r a c t
C l e a r l a n Lanol i n
C l o i s o n n e ' B l u e Flambe 6502: Cosmet ic p e a r l powders C l o i sonne' C e r i s e Flambe 5502 C l o i s o n n e ' Monarch G o l d 233X
CMC, CMC 7MF Carboxymethy l c e l l u l o s e
CO-1895 S t e a r y l a1 c o h o l
Coconut F rag rance O i l
C o l l a g e n KD
C o l l a g e n Seco lan BA
C o l l ami no Complex 40 C o l l agen ami no a c i d s
Col 1 a s o l S o l u b l e c o l 1 agen
Col o r o n a Copper P e a r l e s c e n t p igmen ts C o l o r o n a Red Go ld Co lo rona Red Brown
Comperlan KD Cocamide DEA
Corona PNL Lanol i n
Cosmet ic Tan C33-130 I r o n o x i d e
Cosmowax K S t e a r y l a l c o h o l / c e t e a r e t h 20
Cremerol HMG S u r f a c t a n t
Cremophor A6 C e t e a r e t h - 6 / s t e a r y l a l c o h o l
Cremophor A25 C e t e a r e t h 25
Cremophor EL E t h o x y l a t e d c a s t o r o i l
Cremophor RH40 S u r f a c t a n t
C r i l l 6 S o r b i t a n e s t e r
C rodaco l C-70 C e t y l a1 c o h o l
SOURCE
RITA
Henkel
Mear l
Aqua1 on
Aroma Tech
GFN
Secol
B rooks
Croda
Rona
Henkel
Croda
Sun
Croda
H u l s
Hul s
BASF
BASF
BASF
Croda
Croda
Trade-Named Raw Materials 357
RAW MATER I A LS
Crodacol C-95
Crodacol CS-50
Croda fos CES
Croda fos N3 N e u t r a l
C roda fos N10 N e u t r a l
C roda fos SG
Crodamol GTCC
Crodamol IPM
Crodamol OPG
Crodamol OS
Crodamol PMP
Crodamol PTC
Crodasome CM-Glucan
Crodes ta SL-40
Cromoi s t CM-G1 ucan, Cromoi s t GM-G1 ucan
Cromo is t HYA
Croquat M
C r o s i 1 k Powder
C r o t e i n ADW
C r o t e i n Q
C r o t e i n SPO
C r o v o l A-40
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
C e t y l a1 c o h o l
C e t e a r y l a1 c o h o l
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l / c e t e a r y l phosphate
DEA o l e t h - 3 - p h o s p h a t e
DEA o le th -10 -phospha te
PPG-5-ceteth-10-phosphate
C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i de
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
O c t y l p e l a r g o n a t e
O c t y l s t e a r a t e
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
PPG-2 m y r i s t y 1 e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Croda
P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e l c a p r a t e
Sodi um ca rboxymethy l B -g l ucan
Sucrose c o c o a t e
Carboxymethy l B-g1 ucan
C a t i o n i c p r o t e i n d e r i v a t i v e
I s o s t e a r o y l h y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n
S t e a r t r i moni um h y d r o x y e t h y l hyd ro1 yzed c o l 1 agen
Hydro1 yzed c o l 1 agen
Modi f i ed e t h o x y l a t e d o i 1
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
358 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
C r o v o l A - 7 0 PEG-60 almond g l y c e r i d e s
Croda M40
C r o v o l PK-40 M o d i f i e d e t h o x y l a t e d o i 1s
C u t i na GMS G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
DC Q2-5220 D i me th i cone c o p o l yo1
DC S i 1 i cone 200/350 c t s D i me th i cone
DC-190 D i me th i cone c o p o l yo1
DC 200/200 c s D ime th i cone
DC 345 F l u i d Cyc l omethi cone
DC 556 Phenyl t r i me th i cone
DC 929 S i 1 i c o n e Amodimethicone & nonoxynol -10 & t a l 1 o w t r i moni um c h l o r i d e
D e f e n s i ne Wheat germ e x t r a c t
Dehymuls F
Dehymul s PGPH
Dehyquar t E H y d r o x y c e t y l h y d r o x y e t h y l d imonium c h l o r i d e
Dehyquar t LT L a u r t r i moni um c h l o r i de
Dehyton AB 30 Coco-be ta i ne
Dehyton K Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
Dentphos K D i c a l c i um phosphate
Deodor i zed Orange Wax
Dermacry l , Dermacry l LT
S k i n c a r e po lymer
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Henkel
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
R I T A
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Hoechst
Keunen
N a t i o n a l
Trade-Named Raw Materials 359
RAW MATER1 ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Dermal c a r e N I S k i n c a r e po lymer
Dermacry l -79 S k i n c a r e polymer
Dervac i d 31 55
D i m e t h y l E t h e r
D i o c t y l A d i p a t e & O c t y l S t e a r a t e & O c t y l P a l m i t a t e
D i smut i n-BT Superox ide d i smutase
DL-Pant heno l
DNS Compl e t e c h MBAC-DS Chemicals complex
Dowanol TPM T r i p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l m e t h y l e t h e r
Dow C o r n i n g F l u i d D i meth i cone 200/350 c s .
Dow C o r n i ng Q2-5220 D i meth i cone cop01 yo1
Dow C o r n i n g S i l i c o n e D imeth icone 245
Dow C o r n i n g 190, 193 D imeth icone c o p o l y o l
Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d D imeth icone
Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d , Cyc lometh icone 345 F l u i d
Dow C o r n i n g 3225C F l u i d
Dow C o r n i n g 7224
Dowic ide A A n t i m i c rob i a1 agent
D o w i c i l 200 P r e s e r v a t i ve
D-Panthenol
D-Panthenol USP
D-Panthenol 50P Pant henol & p r o p y l ene g l y c o l
Drakeo l -9 M i n e r a l o i l
SOURCE
Rhone-Poul
N a t i o n a l
DuPont
W i ckhen
Pentapharm
Roche
L i PO
Dow
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow C o r n i n g
Dow
Dow
Hoffman-La
BAS F
BAS F
Penreco
360 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Drakeol-21 Mineral o i l Penreco
Drewpol 3-1-0, Emulsifier Stepan 10-10-0
Dry-Flo PC Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate National
DV-3284 Sodium isethionate ( 5 5 2 )
Dymel A, HFC-152a
Dynaceri n 660 Oleyl erucate
Edeta BD
Elastosol Animal Collagen & Elastin
Elefac 1-205 Octyldodecyl neopentaoate
Elfacos GT282S Hydrogenated talloweth-60 myristyl glycol
Flhibi n Soy protejn
Emerest 1723 Ester
Emeres t 23 16 Ester
Emerest 2407 Glyceryl stearate SE
Emerest 2452 Ester
Emerest 2486 Ester
Emerson-132
Emerwax 1266
Empicol TI 40t Anionic surfactant
Einpigen BE Lauryl betaine
Empilan EGMS Surfactant
Empilan E2502 Cocamide DEA surfactant
Rhone-Poul
DuPont
Huls
BAS F
Croda
Bernel
Akzo
Pentapharm
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Albright
Albright
A 1 br i gh t
Albright
Trade-Named Raw Materials 361
RAW MATER I ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Empi I a n LDE S u r f a c t a n t
Emsorb 2500 S o r b i t a n e s t e r
Emul gade 1 O O N I
Emul gade 1 O O O N I
Emul g a t o r 21 55 S t e a r e t h - 7 & s t e a r y l a l c o h o l & s t e a r e t h - 1 0
Emul s i f y i ng Wax
Emul s i on 25-3800 (50%)
Emulsogen EL
Emulsogen LP
E r v o l
E s c a l o l 507
E s c a l o l 557
E s c a l o l 567
E s t o l EHP/EHP 1543/ 1462
E t h o c e l
Ethoquad 0 / 1 2
Eumulg in VL 75
Eusolex 232/232TS/
Eu tano l G
6300
Euxy l K-400
Ewal an ODE-50
PEG-36 c a s t o r o i l
01 e t h - 5
W h i t e m i n e r a l o i l
O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA
Sunscreen
Benzophenone-3
Cosmet ic e s t e r
E t h y l c e l l u l o s e
PEG-2 01 eammoni um/i s o p r o p y l a l c o h o l
Cosmet i c emu1 s i f i e r o/w
Sunscreen
O c t y l dodecanol
Cosmet ic p r e s e r v a t i v e
O c t y l d o d e c y l l a n o l a t e
SOURCE
A1 b r i g h t
Henkel
Go1 dschmi d t
Keunen
Nat i o n a l
Hoechst
Hoechst
W i t c o
ISP Van Dyk
I S P Van Dyk
I S P Van Dyk
Uni chema
Dow
Armak
Henkel
EM
Henkel
Cal gon
Wagner
Dragoco Ex t rapon Chamomi l e Speci a1
362 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
E x t r a p o n W i t c h Hazel
Ex t rapone 3 Speci a1 Chemical complex
E x t r a k t 52
FG-10
F i nso
F i nso
F i r m i
A n t i foam S i me th i cone Emu1 s i on
v SI3
v TN C12-15 a1 k y l benzoa te
g Liposome
F i t o b r o s i de W a t e r / g l y c o l i p i ds/phospho- l i p i d s / c a r b o h y d r a t e s
F i t ode rm Squal ane
F1 amenco S u p e r p e a r l 1 2 0 C cosmet i c s p i gment
F l e x a n 130 Sodium p o l y s t y r e n e s u l f o n a t e
F l u i l a n L i q u i d l a n o l i n
Foraha O i l
F rag rance
F rag rance
F rag rance
F rag rance
F rag rance
F rag rance
F rag rance Bel 1 e f r e s h
F rag rance 5-5390
F r a g r a n c e
F rag rance
B l a c k Dragon I 1 0/23511
Chi a r a 0/238927
So l a r a 0/227632
PCV 1677
R i v a l i a 0/221212
T imbuk tu 0/186901
L imoba in A . 116 .830
Men a t S p o r t 61569
SOURCE
Dragoco
Dragoco
Zsch i mmer
Dow C o r n i n g
F i n e t e x
F i n e t e x
Col l a b o r a t
Pentapharm
Centerchem
Mear l
N a t i o n a l
Croda
Keunen
Dragoco
Dragoco
Dragoco
G i vaudan
Dragoco
Dragoco
Haarman
Bel 1
Haarman
Haarman
Trade-Named Raw Materials 363
RAW MATERIALS
Fragrance Q4696
F rag rance #S-5704
F rag rance Tendresse 754188
F rag rance #99189 "Twi s t e r "
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Quest
F i n e F l a v
Haarman &
Croon
G-4909
Ga fqua t HS-100 C a t i o n i c copolymer
Gamma Orzano l
Gan t rez ES225, V i n y l e t h e r po l ymer E5425
G e l i t a So l C Hydro1 yzed c o l 1 agen
G e l w h i t e GP Wh i te m o n t m o r r i l o n i t e
Gemstone Moonstone GO04 Cosmet ic p e a r l powder
Genagen CAB
Genamin CTAC
Genamin DSAC
Genamin KSL
Genapol AMG
Genapol L-3
Genapol LRO L i q u i d , Pas te
Genapol TSM
Genapol ZRO L i q u i d
Genero l 122, 122E-10
Germaben I 1
I S P
Keunen
ISP
D t . G e l a t i n
ECC
Mear l
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne Hoechst
Cet r i moni um c h l o r i de Hoechst
D i s t e a r y l d i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e Hoechst
PEG-5 s t e a r y l ammonium l a c t a t e Hoechst
Magnesium PEG-3 cocamide s u l f a t e Hoechst
L a u r e t h - 3 Hoechst
Sodi um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e Hoechst
PEG-3 d i s t e a r a t e , sod i um Hoechst 1 au re
Sodi urn
Cosmet
h s u l f a t e
l a u r e t h s u l f a t e Hoechst
c p r e s e r v a t i ve S u t t o n
364 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
Germaben 1 1 - E Cosmet ic p r e s e r v a t i v e ISP S u t t o n
Germa l l I 1 D i azo1 i d i n y l u r e a ISP S u t t o n
Germa l l 115 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a ISP S u t t o n
Geropon AS-200 Rhone- Pou 1
Geropon SBFA-30 Rhone-Poul
Geropon TC-42 Rhone-Poul
Gorgon ian E x t r a c t B u t y l e n e g l y c o l / s e a wh ip e x t r a c t L i p 0
Glucam E-10 M e t h y l g l uce th -10 Amerc ho 1
Glucam E-20 M e t h y l g l u c e t h - 2 0 Amercho 1
G1 ucam E-20 D i s t e a r a t e M e t h y l g l u c o s e sesqu i s t e a r a t e Amerchol
G1 ucamate DOE-1 20 PEG-120 m e t h y l g l u c o s e d i o l e a t e Amerchol
Glucamate SSE-20 PEG-20 m e t h y l g l u c o s e sesqu i - s t e a r a t e
G l u c a t e DO M e t h y l g l u c o s e d i o l e a t e
G l u c a t e SS M e t h y l g l u c o s e sesqu i s t e a r a t e
G1 ycami 1
G l y c e r o l Monos tea ra te
G l y c e r o x HE PEG-7 g l y c e r y l c o c o a t e
G1 ydan t DMDM h y d a n t o i n
G 1 y d a n t P1 u s DMDM h y d a n t o i n
G1 y d a n t 40/700 DMDM h y d a n t o i n
Ame r c ho 1
Ame r c ho 1
Ame r c h o 1
A1 1 i ed-Si g
Keunen
Croda
Lonza
Lonza
Lonza
Trade -Named Raw Materials 365
RAW MATER I ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
H a i r Mons te r U800 025 F rag rance dram Frag -
Hampene Na2T
Hampene Na3T
Hamamel i s Water
Hamp-ene 100
Hampol OL
HDK N20
H . E . Chamomi 1 e
H . E . Ginseng
H e t e s t e r PHA
Chel a t i ng agen t Hampshi re
Chel a t i n g agen t Hampshire
W i t c h h a z e l Dragoco
T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA c h e l a t i n g agen t Hampshi re
Chel a t i ng agent
H i g h l y d i s p e r s e d si 1 i c i c a c i d
Anthemi s n o b i 1 i s (Chamomi 1 e e x t r a c t )
Ginseng e x t r a c t
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l i s o c e t e t h - 3 a c e t a t e
Hexanedi ol Behennyl Beeswax
Hexet i d i ne
H ispage l 200
Hoechst Po tass
Hoechst S o r b i c
Hombi tec L5
H o s t a c e r i n CG
H o s t a c e r i n D G I
H o s t a c e r i n DGL
H o s t a c e r i n DGMS
Hos tace r i n DGS
H o s t a c e r i n T-3
H o s t a c e r i n WO
um
Ac
S o r b a t e
d
T i t a n i um d i o x i d e
Hampshi r e
Wacker-
PJ Cosmet-
PJ Cosmet-
B e r n e l
Keunen
Angus
Hoechst
Hoechst
Sachet 1 eben
Hoech st
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 s e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e Hoechst
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-10 l a u r a t e Hoechst
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 s t e a r a t e Hoechst
Po lyg l yce ry l -2 -PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Hoechst
C e t e a r e t h - 3 Hoechst
Hoechst
366 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
H o s t a c e r i n WOL Chemical complex
Hos tapha t KL340N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 phospha te
Hos tapha t KML Laure th -4 phosphate, p o l y g l y - c e r y l - 2 , sesqui s o s t e a r a t e
Hostapon CT-Paste Sodi urn m e t h y l c o c o y l t a u r a t e
Hostapon KCG Sodi urn c o c o y l g l u t a m a t e
Hostapon SCI, S C I D Sod
Huberso rb 600
Hyasol -BT Sod
um c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e
um h y a l u r o n a t e
H y d r o f o l A c i d 1655CG F a t t y a c i d and g l y c e r i d e s
Hydro1 yzed Wheat P r o t e i n
Hydrosoy 2000/SF
H y d r o v i t o n Chemicals complex
H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL
H y d r o t r i t i cum WAA Wheat ami no a c i d s
H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000 Wheat p r o t e i n h y d r o l y z a t e s
Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r
Hypan QT-100 P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-31
Hypan SA 100H
Hypan SR 150H
Hypure N
SOURCE
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Huber
Pentapharm
Sherex
VegeTech
Croda
Dragoco
Croda
Croda
Croda
Keunen
L i po
Sodium h y p o c h l o r i t e , 10% s o l n O l i n
Trade-Named Raw Materials 367
RAW MATERIALS
I g e p a l CO-630
Immucel l
I m w i t o r 370
I m w i t o r 375
I m w i t o r 377
I m w i t o r 780K
I m w i t o r 900
I m w i t o r 928
I n c r o c a s - 4 0
I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA
I n c r o m i d e LR
I n c r o m i n e Ox ide C
Incronam 30
I n c r o q u a t Behenyl HE
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
Nonoxynol I SP
G1 y c o p r o t e i ns Pentapharm
I n c r o q u a t Behenyl
I n c r o q u a t CTC-30
I n c r o q u a t HO-80PG
I n c r o q u a t SDQ-25
I s o - A d i p a t e
I s o l a n DO
I s o l a n G I -34
I s o l a n GO-33
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e c i t r a t e
G l y c e r y l c i t r a t e / l a c t a t e / 1 i no1 e a t e / o l e a t e
G l y c e r y l l a u r a t e / c i t r a t e / l a c t a t e
I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r y l s u c c i n a t e
G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
G1 y c e r y l c o c o a t e
PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l
Acetamide MEA/Lactami de MEA
Laurami de DEA
Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i de
Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e
Behenamidopropyl h y d r o x y e t h y l d imoni urn c h l o r i d e
TMS Behentr imonium m e t h o s u l f a t e / c e t e a r y l a1 coho1
Cet r i mon i um c h l o r i de
D i o e l e o y l ami d o e t h y l h y d r o x y - e t h y l m o n i um methosul f a t e
Q u a t e r n a r y c o s m e t i c c o n d i t i o n e r
D i i s o p r o p y l a d i p a t e
Me thy l g l ucose d i o l e a t e
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 i s o s t e a r a t e
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 o l e a t e
Hul s
Hu l s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Dragoco
Go1 dschm
Go1 dschm
Go1 dschm
d l
d i
dl
368 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d
I v a r l a n AWS
I r g a s a n DP300
Jaguar C14S
Jaguar C-162
Jaguar HP-60
Jordapon ACI-30
Jordapon CI-UP
Jordapon C I -60 / CI-75
K80-D22
K a o l i n 2457
K a r i o n F L i q u i d
Kathon CG/ CG100
K e l t r o l CG-T/F
K e r a s o l
Ke ra -Te in 1000 AS
PPG-12 PEG-65 l a n o l i n o i l
T r i c l o s a n b a c t e r i o s t a t
Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i de
Guar gum
H y d r o x y p r o p y l gua r
Ammoni urn c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e
Sodi um c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e
Sodi um c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e / s t e a r i c a c i d
M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l i none/ me thy l i s o t h i a z o l i none
Xanthan gum
E t h y l e s t e r o f h y d r o l y z e d k e r a t i n
Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l
Kessco EGMS
Kessco E t h y l ene G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e
Kessco GMS-Pure
SOURCE
Uni chema
Uni chema
Brooks
C i ba-Gei gy
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
P PG
P PG
PPG
Keunen
E . Merck
Rohm & Haas
K e l c o
Croda
Maybroo k
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Trade-Named Raw Materials 369
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Kessco GMS S.E. /A.S. Stepan
Kessco ICs Stepan
Kessco IPM Stepan
Kessco IPP Stepan
Kessco O c t y l I sononanoa te Stepan
Kessco PEG 400 D i l a u r a t e Stepan
Kessco PEG 400 DL
Kessco PEG 6000 DS
Kessco-653
K e s t e r Wax 82
K i 11 i t o 1
K1 e a r o l
K l u c e l G
K u i k u i Nut O i l
L a c t i 1
Lactomi de
Lameforrn T G I
Lanapene
Lanes ta S
Laneto-50
L a n e t t e - 0
L a n e t t e 16
L a n o c e r i n
Stepan
Stepan
F a t t y e s t e r Stepan
Keunen
B u t y l e n e g l y c o l / g l y c e r i n / c h l o r - Col l a b o r a ophenesin/ rnethy lparaben
Wh i te m i n e r a l o i l
H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e
Cherni c a l s complex
Water /phosphol i p i ds/cerarni des
I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e
PEG-75 1 a n o l i n
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
L a n o l i n wax
W i t c o
Aqua1 on
O i l s A l o h a
Go1 dschrni d t
Lanaet ex
Lanaetex
RITA
Henkel
Hen ke 1
Arnerchol
370 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW M A T E R I A L S CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Lanol 37T
L a n o l i n USP
L a n o l i n USP X-TRA Deo
Lasemul 92AE
L a t h a n o l LAL
Lexami ne S-13
Lexemu 1
Lexemul 515
Lexgard M
Lexgard P
L i p e x 102
pex 106
pex 203
pex 205
L i p o c o l C
L i p o c o l C-10
L i p o c o l 0 /95
L i p o c o l S - 2
L i poco1 S - 1 O/S-20
L i po F r u i t Ac i d Complex
L i pogard
L i p 0 GMS 450
L i p o l a n 31
L i p o l PG 855
Foami ng agent
C a t i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r
Cosmet i c emu1 s i f i e r
Cosmet ic e m u l s i f i e r
M e t h y l paraben
P r o p y l paraben
Shea b u t t e r
I 1 1 i pe b u t t e r
Mango k e r n a l o i l
Canola o i l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
SOURCE
Seppi c
R I T A
RITA
Stepan
I no1 ex
I n o l ex
I n o l e x
I n o l e x
I n o l e x
L i po
L i po
L i PO
L i PO
P o l o x y e t h y l e n e f a t t y e t h e r L i PO
G l y c o l i c a c i d (and ) t a m a r i n d L i p 0 e x t r a c t
Squal ane (and ) Ubi q u i none Pentapharm
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e L i PO
L a n o l i n d e r i v a t i v e L i po
L i PO
Trade-Named Raw Materials 371
RAW MATER I ALS
L i pomul se 165
L i pona te DPC-6/GC
L i p o n a t e IPM
L i p o n a t e IPP
L i p o n a t e NPGC-2
L i p o n a t e SPS
L i pona te TDTM
L i p o n i c EG-1
L i p o p e a r l Green
L ipopeg 6000 DS
L i poquat R
L i p o s o r b L-20
L i p 0 S t e a r i c A c i d
L i p o v o l MOS-70
L i p o v o l PAL
L i p o v o l SAF
L i p o v o l SES
Lipowax D
Lipowax G
Lipowax N I
L ipowax P
L i q u a p a r O i 1
L o v o c r y l - 4 7
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
G 1 y c e r y l s tearate/PEG-100 s t ea r a t e
F a t t y e s t e r
F a t t y e s t e r
F a t t y e s t e r
Neopen ty l g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e / d i c a p r a t e
F a t t y e s t e r
F a t t y e s t e r
G1 y c e r e t h-26
PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e
F a t t y a c i d amide e t h o s u l f a t e
S o r b i t a n e s t e r
N a t u r a l v e g e t a b l e o i 1
N a t u r a l v e g e t a b l e o i 1
Sa f f 1 ower o i 1
Sesame o i l
C e t e a r y l a1 coho1 / c e t e a r e t h - 2 0
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l / c e t e a r e t h - 2 0
S e l f - e m u l s i f y i n g wax
E m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF
P r e s e r v a t i ve
Octylacrylamide/acrylates b u t y l a m i n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l a t e copolymer
SOURCE
L i po
L i PO
L i PO
L i po
L i po
L i po
L i p o
L i PO
L i PO
L i po
L i po
L i PO
L i po
L i po
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
S u t t o n
N a t i o n a l
372 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER I ALS
Lunacera M
Luvimer Low VOC
Luv imer 360
Luv imer 1OOP
L u v i q u a t Mono CP
L u v i s k o l K30/K90/ VA73E/VA73W/VA641
L u v i t o l EHO
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Hydrogenated m i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax H B F u l l e r
BAS F
BAS F
BASF
P o l y q u a t e r n i um BAS F
PV P BASF
C e t e a r y l o c t a n o a t e BASF
Macademi a Nut O i 1 O i 1 s A l o h a
Macol CPS j l24 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e f a t t y e t h e r P PG
Mafo CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne PPG
Mafo CSB-50 Cocamidopropyl h y d r o x y s u l t a i ne PPG
Magnabri t e S t a b i 1 i z i ng, suspend ing agen t AmCol l o i d
Magnesi um S t e a r a t e - D W i t c o
Mapeg EGMS
Mapeg 6000 DS
Maprosy l 30
M a r l i n a t CM 100/80
M a r l i n a t 242/28
Mar 1 i p a l 161 8/25
Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d
M a s i l 280
M a s i l 656 F l u i d
Maypon 4C
G1 y c o l s t e a r a t e
PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e
Lau re th -11 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d
Sodium + l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
C e t e a r e t h - 2 5
Cyc l omet h i cone
D ime th i cone c o p o l y o l
S i 1 i cone
Po tass ium c o c o y l - h y d r o l y z e d c o l 1 agen
PPG
P PG
Stepan
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
PPG
P PG
PPG
I no1 ex
Trade-Named Raw Materials 373
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Mazami de CMEA Cocami de CMEA
Mazami de JT-128 Cocamide DEA
Mazami de SS-10 Soyamide DEA
Mazox CAPA Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i de
MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e
M e a r l i t e GBU S y n t h e t i c p e a r l p igmen t
Mear lm ica CF/SVA Cosmet ic m ica powder
M e a r l t a l c TCA T a l c
M e d i a l a n LD Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e
Merquat 550 Po l y q u a t e r n i urn-7
Methocel E/E4M/ H y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l ul ose K1 OOLV/40-100
M i c a M-RP
M i c r o c e l E
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e W445 Wax
M i c r o T i t a n i um D i o x i d e MT-500B Ti t a n i urn d i o x i d e
M i c r o w h i t e 100
M i g l y o l Gel B C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e / s t e a r a l k o n i urn h e c t o r i t e / p r o p - y l ene c a r b o n a t e
M i g l yo1 81 0/812 C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
M i g l y o l 818 Caprylic/capric/linoleic t r i g l y c e r i de
M i g l y o l 829 C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c / d i g l y c e r y l s u c c i n a t e
M i g l y o l 840 P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e
M i 1 f o i 1 E x t r a c t
SOURCE
P PG
P PG
PPG
PPG
Mona
Mear 1
Mear 1
Mear 1
Hoechst
Cal gon
Dow
Rona
Rona
W i t c o
T r i - K
ECC
H u l s
Hul s
H u l s
Hul s
Hul s
Ke l i sema
374 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW M A T E R I A L S CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
M i n e r a l Col 1 o i d BP Montmori 11 o n i t e ECC America
M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l Amer cho 1
M i n o s i 1
M i r a c a r e BC-IO
M i r a c a r e CT-100
M i r a c a r e MPC
M i r a c a r e MS-1
M i r a n o l BT
M i r a n o l C2M-SF70%
M i r a n o l C2M-SF Conc.
M i r a n o l U1 t r a
Modul an
Monafax 160
Monafax 1214
Monamate CPA-40
Monamate LNT-40
Monamid CMA
Monami d 150-ADD
Monamid 716
Monamid 1089
Monamul s 60-35C
Monaquat TG
Monaterge 11 64
S u r f a c t a n t
Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate
D i sod i um cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e
S u r f a c t a n t
A c e t y l a t e d 1 ano l i n
Phosphate e s t e r
Deceth-4-phosphate
M i I d a n i o n i c d e t e r g e n t
M i l d a n i o n i c d e t e r g e n t
Cocamide MEA
Cocamide DEA
Laurami de DEA
Super f a t t y a l k a n o l a m i d e
Q u a t e r n a r y p h o s p h o l i p i d cpd .
Sodi um 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e / d i s o d i urn 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
P r i d e S o l v
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Amerchol
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Trade-Named Raw Materials 375
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
M o n a t e r i c CM-36s M i l d a m p h o t e r i c e m u l s i f i e r
M o n a t e r i c 805 D i s o d i um cocoamphodi a c e t a t e / d i s o d i u m cocami do MIPA-su1 f o - s u c c i n a t e
M o n a t e r i c 951A M i I d a m p h o t e r i c e m u l s i f i e r
Monawet MO-75E W e t t i ng agent
Monazol i ne CY I - h y d r o x y e t h y l - 2 - c a p r y l i m i d - azo1 i ne
Montan OV 68
MPC-Mi 1 k Pept i de Compl ex
M-Pyrol n-Methy l P y r r o l i done
Mu lgo fen ON-870
Myacide SP 2 , 4 - d i c l o r o b e n z y l a l c o h o l
M y r i t o l 318
M y r j 52 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s t e a r a t e
M y r j 525 PEG-40 s t e a r a t e
M y r j 59 PEG-100 s t e a r a t e
Na-Hyal u r o n a t e S e l u r o n Sol u t i on
N a t i p i d e I 1
N a t r o s o l P1 us 330 CS/ H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 250HHR/250HHR CS/ 250HHX/250HR/250HR CS
N a t u r a l Beeswax
SOURCE
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Seppi c
R i c h t e r
ISP
Rhone- Pou 1
I n o l e x
I C 1
IC1
I C 1
Secol
Natterrnan
Aqua1 on
Naturechem EGHS C a s t o r o i 1 d e r i v a t i v e
R i t a
CasChem
376 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Naturechem GMHS
Naturechem OHS
Neobee M-5
Neobee M-20
Neodol 2 3 - 6 . 5
Neo-He1 i opan AV
Neo-He1 i opan BB
Neo-He1 i opan, Hydro
Neo-He1 i opan MA
Neo-He1 i opan OS
Neo-He1 i opan E1000
Neo-Hel iopan 303
N-Hance 3000
N i m l e s t e r o l D
N i n o l 30-LL
N i n o l 40-CO
N i n o l 55-LL
N i n o l 96-SL
N i p a c i d e PX
N i p a g i n M
N i paguard BPX
N i paguard DMDMH
N i p a s o l
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
C a s t o r o i l d e r i v a t i v e CasChem
Cosmet ic i n g r e d i e n t CasChem
C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Stepan
Cosmet ic o i l Stepan
C12-Cl3 1 i near p r i m a r y a l c o h o l She1 1 e t h o x y l a t e
O c t y l me thoxyc i nnamate
Benzophenone-3
Phenyl b e n z i m i d a z o l e sul f o n i c a c i d
Men thy l a n t h t h r a n i l a t e
O c t y l s a l i cy1 a t e
I soamyl -p -me thoxyc innamate
O c t o c r y l i ne
C a t i o n i c gua r
M i n e r a l o i l
A1 k y l o l ami des
Cocamide DEA
A 1 k y l o l ami de
A1 k y l o l ami de
M e t h y l paraben
DMDM h y d a n t o i n
P r o p y l pa raben
Haarman
Haarman
Haarman
Haarman
Haarman
Haarman
Haarman
Aqualon
Ma 1 mst rom
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
N i pa
N i pa
N i pa
N i pa
N i pa
Trade-Named Raw Materials 377
RAW MATER1 ALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
N i p a s t a t
Nuosept C
N u t r i l a n L H y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n
M i c r o b i o c i de
Oc top i r o x P i r o c t o n e a1 ami ne
Oh1 an H y d r o x y l a t e d 1 ano
Omnirez 2000
i n
O p a t i n t FD&C a1 umi num 1 ake c o n c e n t r a t e
Orange Wax
Orgaso l 2002D Nat Cos Nylon-12
Orgasol 2002UD Nat Cos Ny lon -12
O x e t a l VD 20
Oxynex LM A n t i o x i d a n t
Oxynex 2004 A n t i o x i d a n t
Oxypon 2145
O y s t e r Nut O i l
O z o k e r i t e Wax
O z o k e r i t e Wax
O z o k e r i t e Wax
O z o k e r i t e W h i t e 170
O z o k e r i t e 64W
O z o k e r i t e #77W
O z o k e r i t e 160/
O z o k e r i t e 164/
64
70
SOURCE
N i pa
N i p a
Henkel
Hoech s t
Ame r c ho
I S P
Col o r c o n
Keunen
Atochem
Atochem
Zschimmer
Zsch i mmer
Zsch i mmer
Zsch i mmer
Keunen
I n t Wax
Keunen
Ross
Keunen
Keunen
37% Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Panal ane
Panal ane L-14E
P a r a f f i n O i l
P a r a f f i n 150/155
P a r a f f i n 160/165
P a r s o l MCX
P a r s o l 1789
P a t i o n i c I S L
P a t i o n i c ISL /85
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Hydrogenated i s o b u t y l e n e Amoco
Hydrogenated i s o b u t y l e n e Amoco
M i n e r a l o i l Merck
Keunen
Keunen
O c t y l me thoxyc i nnamate G i vaudan
UV-A sunscreen G i vaudan
Sodi um i s o s t e a r o y l 1 a c t y l a t e RITA
Sodi um i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e 85% RITA
P a t i o n i c SSL Sodium s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e
P a t l a c I L I s o s t e a r y l l a c t a t e
P a t l a c LA L a c t i c a c i d
PCL L i q u i d
Peach F l o r a l 92F/3235 F rag rance
P e a r l e s c e n t P igments
Pecosi 1 CAP-1240
Pecosi 1 PS-100
Pecosi 1 SMQ-40
Pecosi 1 SPB-1240
PEG Carnauba
Pe lan B l a c k
Pemulen TR-1
Pemulen TR-2
P e n t a l y n C
D i me th i cone c o p o l yo1 phospha te
S i 1 i cone q u a t e r n i um-5
S i 1 i cone a u a t e r n i um-6
RITA
RITA
RITA
Dragoco
F rag rance
Rona
Phoen i x
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Keunen
A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 a1 k y l a c r y l a t e Goodr i c h
Pol ymer i c emu 1 s i f i e r G o o d r i c h
S y n t h e t i c r e s i n H e r c u l e s
Trade-Named Raw Materials 379
RAW MATERIALS
P e n t a v i t i n
P e p t e i n 2000
P e r f e c t a
Perfume
Perfume 726096
Permethy l 101A/102A/ 104A
Permu lg in D
Pg-3 Beeswax
Phoenamid CD
Phoenamid L D
Phoenate SLES-70
Phoenate 3SDA
Phoenoni p
Phoskadent Na211
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
S a c c h a r i d e i somerate
H y d r o l y z e d animal p r o t e i n
P e t r o l a t u m
Courage 0/243101
F rag rance
A l i p h a t i c hyd roca rbon
Custom b l e n d e d wax
Cera B e l l i n a
Cocamide DEA
Laurami de DEA
Sodi urn 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e
PEG-3 d i s t e a r a t e
L i q u i d p r e s e r v a t i ve system
D e n t a l g rade phospha te
SOURCE
Pentapharm
Hormel
W i t c o
Dragoco
Haarman
Permethy l
Keunen
Keunen
Phoen i x
Phoenix
Phoen i x
Phoenix
N i pa
BK-Laden-
Phosphol i p i d EFA/GFA/ B i omi m e t i c phosphol i p i d Mona PTC/SV
P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38 T r i sod i urn 1 auroampho PG a c e t a t e Mona phosphate c h l o r i de
P h y t a l u r o n a t e Locus t bean gum Pentapharm
P i l o t SXS-4O/SXS-96 H y d r o t r o p e P i l o t
P1 u r a c a r e F127 BASF
P l u r a f a c C-17 O x y e t h y l a t e d a l c o h o l BAS F
PNC 400 Sodi um carbomer 3 V GmbH
Pol awax E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF Croda
Polawax A-31 E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF Ross
380 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER1 ALS
P o l e s t a r 400A
P o l y b u t e n e H-100
Po l y e t h y l ene 6A/9A
Polymer JR400
Po l y p e p t i de LSN
P o l y q u t a 400/3000
P o l y s y n l ane
PPG-36 C a s t o r O i l
P r i c e r i n e 9083
P r i f a c 2942
P r i s t e r i ne 4904
P r o c e t y l 10
P r o c o l CS-POD
Prodew 100
Promois ECP
Promoi s WS
Promulgen D
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cal c i ned c l ay
Po lyqua te rn ium-10
Hydro1 yzed c o l 1 agen
P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0
Hydrogenated p o l y i s o b u t e n e
G1 y c e r i ne
M y r i s t i c a c i d
S t e a r i c a c i d
A1 k o x y l a t e d c e t y l e t h e r
S o r b i t o 1 / s o d i u m 1 a c t a t e / p r o - l i n e / s o d i u m PCA/hydro lyzed c o l 1 agen
Col 1 agen
H y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n
SOURCE
ECC Amer ica
Amerc ho 1
I n o l e x
RITA
Po l y e s t h e r
P PG
Uni chema
Uni chema
Uni chema
Croda
A j i nomoto
RITA
RITA
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l / c e t e a r e t h - 2 0 Amerchol
P r o n a l e n F r u i t A c i d AHA-5 Lemon & Pass ion F r u i t Conc. Centerchem
P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t Phi 1 1 i psPe t
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l / d i a z o l i d i n y l u rea /me thy lpa raben / S u t t o n p r o p y l p a r a b e n
P r o t e c t a n Lac tococcus 1 a c t i s 1 y s a t e R i c h t e r
P u r c e l 1 i n O i 1 C e t e a r y l o c t a n o a t e / i s o p r o p y l Dragoco m y r i s t a t e
Trade-Named Raw Materials 381
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
P u r c e l l i n O i l 2/066210 C e t e a r y l o c t a n o a t e Dragoco
P u r t o n SFD F a t t y a c i d a l k a n o l a m i d e Zsch i mmer
PVP K-30 PV P ISP
PVP/VA E-735 PVP/VA copolymer ISP
R a f f e r m i ne
Reduct i ne
Resyn 28-1 31 O / 28-2930/28-3307
Revi t a l i n-BT
R e w o t e r i c AM 514
R e w o t e r i c AM B14LS
Rheol a t e 5000
Rhodafac RA-600
Rhodapex ES
Rhodaquat D261 C/75
Rhodi g e l
Rhodopol 23/50MD
R i c e B ran O i 1
R i t a b a t e - 2 0
R i t a b a t e - 6 0
R i t a b a t e - 8 0
R i t a CA
R i t a c e t - 2 0
Hydro1 yzed soy f 1 o u r
Oat p r o t e i n
H a i r s p r a y po lymer
GI y c o p r o t e i ns
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
A c r y l a te /Va copolymer
Deceth-4 phospha te
E t h e r s u l f a t e
Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum
Po l y s o r b a t e - 2 0
P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0
Pol y s o r b a t e - 8 0
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
Ce tea re th -20
RITA
RITA
N a t i o n a l
Pentapharm
W i t c o
W i t c o
Rheox
Rhone-Poul
Rhone-Poul
Rhone- Pou 1
V a n d e r b i l t
V a n d e r b i l t
Keunen
R I T A
RITA
RITA
RITA
R I T A
382 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( 5 0 / 5 0 ) RITA
R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (70 /30 ) RITA
R i t a c e t i
R i t a c e t y l
R i t a c h o l
R i t a c h o l 1000
R i t a c h o l 2000
R i t a CTAC-605
R i t ade rm
R i t a EGDS
R i t a EGMS
R i t a GMS
R i t a HA C - I - C
R i t a h y d r o x
R i t a I P M
R i t a IPP
R i t a l an
R i t a l o e 1X
R i t a l o e 200M
R i t a m i d e C
R i t a p a n D
R i t a p a n DL
R i t a p e g 150 DS
R i t a PEO-1
C e t y l e s t e r s RITA
A c e t y l a t e d 1 ano l i n R I T A
M i n e r a l o i 1 /l a n o l i n a l c o h o l RITA
RITA B l e n d RITA
C e t e a r y l a1 coho1 / p o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 RITA
Cet r i moni um c h l o r i de RITA
P e t r o l a tum/ l a n o l i n / s o d i um PCA/ RITA p o l y s o r b a t e 85
G1 y c o l d i s t e a r a t e RITA
G1 y c o l s t e a r a t e RITA
G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e RITA
Sodi um h y a l u r o n a t e R I T A
H y d r o x y l a t e d 1 a n o l i n R I T A
I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e R I T A
I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e RITA
L a n o l i n o i l RITA
A l o e v e r a g e l R I T A
A l o e v e r a g e l R I T A
Cocamide DEA RITA
d-Panthenol R I T A
d l -Pantheno1 RITA
PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e RITA
PEG-SM R I T A
Trade -Named Raw Materials 383
RAW MATERIALS
R i t a PEO-3
R i t a p r o 100
R i t a p r o - 1 6 5
R i t a p r o 300
R i t a SA
R i t a s i l 190
R i t a s o l
R i t a SSO
R i t a Stac-80
R i t a s y n t I P
R i t a t a i ne
R i t avena-5
R i tawax
R i tawax ALA
R i tawax 15
R i t o x 52
R i t o x 59
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
PEG-23M
RITA b l e n d
G l y c e r y l s tearate/PEG-100 s t e a r a t e
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l / c e t e a r e t h - 2 0
S t e a r y l a1 c o h o l
D i me th i cone c o p o l yo1
I s o p r o p y l l a n o l a t e
S u n f l o w e r seed oi 1
S t e a r t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e and o t h e r s
Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
Hydro1 yzed o a t f 1 o u r
Lanol i n a1 coho l
C e t y l a c e t a t e / a c e t y l a t e d 1 ano l i n a1 c o h o l
Lanol i n a1 c o h o l
PEG-40 s t e a r a t e
PEG-100 s t e a r a t e
Rona P e a r l P i gment Combi n a t i o n s
Rosswax 15-1 182 Wax
Rosswax 26-1 152 Wax
Rosswax 1824 Wax
Rovisome Ace V i t a m i n b l e n d
Rovi some-AHA L a c t i c a c i d
SOURCE
RITA
R I T A
RITA
R I T A
RITA
RITA
R I T A
RITA
RITA
RITA
RITA
R I T A
R I T A
RITA
RITA
R I T A
R I T A
Rona
Ross
Ross
Ross
R I T A
RITA
384 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Rovisome C R O V I b l e n d RITA
Rovisome HA L e c i t h i n / a l c o h o l / s o d i um hya- RITA 1 u r o n a t e
S a n s u r f OMC Chemical compl ex C o l l abo ra -
Schercemol CO C e t y l o c t a n o a t e e s t e r Scher
Schercemol CP E s t e r Scher
Schercemol D I D D i i s o p r o p y l d imer d i 1 i no1 e a t e Scher
Schercemol 185 E s t e r Scher
S e l a s t i n E L - 1 0 Secol
S e r i c i n
SF-1 204/SF1214 D i me th i cone
Shea B u t t e r
Shebu WS PEG-50 shea b u t t e r
S h e l l s o l D40 P e t r o l e u m d i s t i l l a t e s
S h e l l s o l T P e t r o l e u m d i s t i l l a t e s
S h i n j u 1 0 0 T S y n t h e t i c p e a r l p i gment
S i comet D y e s t u f f
S icomet B l u e 542045 D y e s t u f f suspens ion 1%
S i comet Red F12150
S i 1 i cone 7207
S i 1 i cony1 Beeswax
S i l k M i c a
S i 1 k ' n So l u b l e L i q u i d
S i l t e x M Super
Pentapharm
DowCorni ng
Keunen
RITA
Shel 1
Shel 1
Mear l
BASF
BAS F
BASF
OS1 S p e c i a l
Keunen
Rona
Dasco
Rona
Trade-Named Raw Materials 385
RAW MATERIALS
Simchi n N a t u r a l
S ipon ES2
S ipon LT-6
S ipon 201-10
S o f t i g e n 701
S o f t i g e n 767
S o f t i s a n 100
S o f t i s a n 378
S o f t i s a n Gel
S o f t i s a n 601
S o f t i s a n 645/649
Solagum L
S o l t r o l 100
S o l u l a n 16
S o l u l a n 98
Solu-Soy EN25
SS4267
S t a r f o l OS
S t a b i 1 eze XL-80W
S t a b i l e z e 06
Standarnid KD
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
J o j o b a o i l RITA
Sodi urn l a u r e t h s u l f a t e ( 2 mole) Rhone-Poul
TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e
G1 y c e r y l r i c i no1 e a t e
PEG-6 c a p r y l i c / c a p r i c g l y c e r i d e s
Hydrogenated c o c o - g l y c e r i d e s
C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c t r i g l y c e r i de
Complex o f chemica l s
G l y c e r y l cocoa te /hyd rogena ted coconu t o i l / c e t e a r e t h - 2 5
B i s - d i g l y c e r y l p o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2
C9-11 i s o p a r a f f i n
Laneth-lG/ceteth-16/0leth-l6/ s t e a r e t h - 1 6
P o l y s o r b a t e 8 0 / c e t y l a c e t a t e / a c e t y l a t e d l a n o l i n a l c o h o l
D i r n e t h i c o n e / t r i r n e t h y l - s i l o x y - s i 1 i c a t e
D i f a t t y e s t e r
Cocamide DEA
Rhone-Poul
Rhone- Pou 1
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Seppi c
Phi 11 i p s
Amerc ho 1
Arne r c h o 1
Brooks
GESi 1 i cone
Sherex
I S P
ISP
Henkel
386 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Standamid LD
S tandapo l A Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
S tandapo l ES1 (30%) Sodi um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e
S tandapo l ES-2 Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
S tandapo l T TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e
S t andapol WAQ- LC Sodi urn 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e
S tandapo l WAQ Spec. Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
S t e o l CA-130/CS-130/ A l c o h o l e t h e r s u l f a t e CS-230/CS-33O/CS-460
Stepan-Mi 1 d BSB
Stepan-Mi I d L S B
Stepan-Mi 1 d SL3
S tepano l AM
S tepano l AM-V/ ME-Dry/WA-Extra
S tepano l WAT
Stepan TAB-2
S u n e t t
Sunf 1 ower O i 1
Sunscreen L i posomes
Super F l o s s
Super H a r t o l an
Ammoni urn 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Acesul fame K
Complex o f chemi c a l s
D i atomaceous e a r t h
Lanol i n a1 coho1
Super R e f i ned Wheat Germ O i 1
Supersa t AWS-4 PEG-20 hyd rogena ted l a n o l i n
Supra T a l c Premi um t a l c
SOURCE
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen ke 1
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Hoech s t
L i PO
Col 1 a b o r a t -
Manvi 11 e
Croda
Croda
RITA
R I T A
Trade-Named Raw Materials 387
RAW MATER1 ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Syncrowax A w l - C S y n t h e t i c wax Croda
Syncrowax ERL-C S y n t h e t i c wax Croda
Syncrowax HGL-C C18-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e Croda
Syncrowax HR-C S y n t h e t i c wax
S y n t h e t i c Candel i 11 a
Tagat L PEG-20 g l y c e r y l 1 a u r a t e
Tagat 0 PEG-30 g l y c e r y l o l e a t e
T a l c 141
T a l c 1625
TEA Sal i cy1 a t e TEA s a l i cy1 a t e i n p r o p y l ene g l y c o l
T e c h n o c e l l 9 0 D V
Tech-0 11-070 S t e r - 0 - P r o
Tech-0 11-075 C o n c e n t r a t e d Oat P r o t e i n
Tegi n G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e S . E .
Teg in M G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
T e g i n a c i d C
Croda
Keunen
Go ldschmid t
Go1 dschmi d t
Whi t t a k e r
Haarman
Beacon CMP
Beacon CMP
Go ldschmid t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
T e g i n a c i d H G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e / c e t e t h - 2 0 Go1 dschmi d t
T e g i n EGS G1 y c o l d i s t e a r a t e Go1 dschmi d t
T e g i n M G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e Go ldschmid t
Tego A l k a n o l 16 C e t y l a l c o h o l Go 1 dsc hmi d t
Tego Amid S18 Stearami d o p r o p y l d i me thy l ami ne Go1 dschmid t
Tego B e t a i n e E/F/FSO/ Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e Go1 dschmi d t L7
388 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Tego Care 450
Tego Deo HY77
Tego G l u c o s i d L55
Tego G l u c o s i d 1216
Tego P e a r l N l O O
Tegoso f t C I
T e g o s o f t CT
Tegosof t DO
T e g o s o f t GC
T e g o s o f t L i q u i d
T e g o s o f t M
T e g o s o f t OP
T e g o s o f t OS
Tegosof t P
T e g o s o f t S
Tenox BHT
Tenox 4
Tensami 306
Tens i ne
Texapon L20M
Texapon SBN
Texapon T42
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Po l y g l y c e r y l - 3 m e t h y l g l ucose d i s t e a r a t e
Z i nc r i n c i no1 e a t e / t r i e t h a n o l - ami n e / d i p r o p y l ene g l y c o l / l a c t i c a c i d
L a u r y l g l u c o s i de/cocamido- p r o p y l b e t a i n e
L a u r y l g l u c o s i d e
G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e / s t e a r e t h - 4
C e t e a r y l i sononanoa te
Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s
Decyl o l e a t e
PEG-7 g l y c e r y l c o c o a t e
C e t e a r y l o c t a n o a t e
I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e
O c t y l p a l m i t a t e
O c t y l s t e a r a t e
I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e
I s o p r o p y l s t e a r a t e
A n t i o x i d a n t
A n t i o x i d a n t
Casei n / xan than gum
Wheat p r o t e i n
TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e
SOURCE
Go ldschmid t
Go1 dschrni d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmid t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschrni d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschrni d t
Eastman
Eastrnan
A1 banMul1 e r
RITA
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Trade-Named Raw Materials 389
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
T h i o g l y c o l a t e T r i h y d r a t e
T h i o g l y c o l i c A c i d
T i m i c a S p a r k l e 11OP Cosmet ic p e a r l powder
T i m i r o n MP-24 G o l d K a r e t I n t e r f e r e n c e Pigment
T i m i r o n MP1001 /MP1500 T i t a n i um d i o x i d e / m i ca
T i m i r o n S . I + P i gments T i t a n i um d i o x i de/mi ca
T i m i r o n S i 1 k Red/ M i c a / t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e S t a r 1 i g h t C o l o r s
T i m i r o n Super Pigments P e a r l escen t p igmen ts
T i o v e i l F IN T i t a n i u m d iox ide /C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate
T i t a n i u m D i o i x d e 110 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e / b i s m u t h oxy - c h l o r i d e
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e #3328
T r i s Amino T r i s ( h y d r o x y m e t h y l ) amino- methane
T r i s e p t M Me thy lpa raben
T r i s e p t P P r o p y l paraben
T r i s t a t I U I m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a
T r i t i s o l S o l u b l e wheat p r o t e i n
T r i t o n X-100 O c t o x y n o l - 9
T r i v e n t OC-G T r i d e c y l neopen tanoa te
Tween 20 P o l y s o r b a t e 20
Tween 40 P o l y s o r b a t e 40
Tween 60 P o l y s o r b a t e 60
SOURCE
Merck
W i t c o
Rona
Rona
Rona
Rona
Rona
Rona
T i o x i de
P resperse
Angus
T r i - K
T r i - K
T r i - K
Croda
Rohm&Haas
T r i v e n t
I C 1
I C 1
IC1
390 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW M A T E R I A L S
Tween 80
T y l o s e CB 200
T y l o s e H1000
Ucare Polymer JR-125
U l t r a o l 70 NF
U l t r a p u r e L
U l t r e z 10
U n i c i d e U-13
Uni n o n t a n U-34
Uniphen P-23
U n i r e p U-18
Uvatone 2-6
U v i n u l M-40
U v i n u l MC80
UV-Ti t a n M212
Van Gel B/C/ES/O
Vani 11 a BB-36943
Vanseal CS
Vanseal NACS-30
Vanseal NALS-30
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
P o l y s o r b a t e 80
C e l l u l ose gum
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0
SOURCE
IC1
Hoechst
Hoechst
UnionCarb
P e t r o l a t u m U l t r a
G o o d r i c h
I m i dazo l i d i n y l u r e a L i po
W a t e r / p r o p y l ene g l y c o l / s o d i um L i po c i t r a t e / l e m o n e x t r a c t / c u c u m b e r e x t r a c t
Phenoxyethanol /me thy l paraben/ L i po e t h y l p a r a b e n / p r o p y l paraben/ b u t y l p a r a b e n
Benzophenone-3 BASF
BASF
T i t a n i um d i o x i d e / a l umi na/ Kemi r a g l y c e r i n / s i 1 i c a
Magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e V a n d e r b i l t
Ungerer
Cocoyl s a r c o s i n e s u r f a c t a n t V a n d e r b i l t
Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e V a n d e r b i l t
S a r c o s i n a t e s u r f a c t a n t V a n d e r b i l t
Trade-Named Raw Materials 391
RAW MATER I A L S
V a r i on CADG/CADG LS/
V a r i s o f t TA-100
Varon i c L I - 4 8 / L I -67/ 63-E-20
Vase1 i ne W h i t e
Veegum/ HV/ K/ P r o / R e g u l a r / T/ U l t r a
Vel v e t e x BA-35
V e l v e t e x BK-35
V e r s a t y l - 4 2
Versene Powder/100
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
S u r f a c t a n t Sherex
Hai r r i n s e c o n c e n t r a t e Sherex
N o n i o n i c w e t t i n g agen t Sherex
P e t r o l a t u m w h i t e W i t c o
Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e Vanderb i 1 t
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne Henkel
Henkel
H a i r s p r a y po lymer N a t i o n a l
T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA c h e l e t i n g agen t Dow
V i b r a n t S p l a s h 94F/2203 F rag rance F rag rance
V i g i l a n AWS
V i t a m n -E-Ace ta te
V i tam n F F o r t e C L R
Volpo C S 2 0
Volpo s-2
Volpo s-10
Volpo s-20
Vo lpo 5
Vybar-5013
Fann ing
Tocophery l a c e t a t e BASF
R i c h t e r
E t h o x y l a t e d o l e o y l e t h e r Croda
S t e a r e t h - 2 Croda
S t e a r e t h - I O Croda
S t e a r e t h-20 Croda
01 e t h - 5 Croda
Polymer P e t r o l i t e
392 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MAT E R I A LS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Walnu t S h e l l s (AD-7B Type) A g r a s h e l l
Waxenol 810
Wecobee S
Wecobee SS
Wheat Germ O i l
Wheat-Tei n NL
W h i t e Fonol i ne
W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s
Wickenol 152
Wickenol 171
Wickenol 550
W i t cami de 51 1
W i t c o n a t e NIS
W i t c o n o l APM
Xanthan Gum
Y e l l o w P r o t o p e t 2A
Z e t e s o l N L
Z e t e s o l 856T
Z i n c Omadine
Z i n c Ox ide N e u t r a l
Z i n c S t e a r a t e #695
Zuso l a t 1004
Zusol a t 1 005/85
W i ckhen
S y n t h e t i c b u t t e r Stepan
S y n t h e t i c cocoa b u t t e r Stepan
R i t a
H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n Maybrook
P e t r o l a t u m W i t c o
P e t r o l a t u m W i t c o
CasChem
Ca sCh em
CasChem
A1 kano lamide s u r f a c t a n t W i t c o
Sodi um i s e t h i o n a t e W i t c o
N o n i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t W i t c o
Ke l co
P e t r o l a t u m W i t c o
Sodium l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e Zsch i mmer
F a t t y a l c o h o l e t h e r s u l f a t e Zschi mmer
Z i n c p y r i t h i o n e , 48% O l i n
Haarman
A1 k y l p o l y e t h y l ene g l y c o l e t h e r Zsch i mmer
A 1 k y l p o l y e t h y l ene g l y c o l e t h e r Zsch i mmer
Trade-Named Raw Materials 393
RAW M A T E R I A L S CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
18-B G l y c y r r h e t i n i c A c i d Phytosome
33-5198 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide
4311810 U l t r a m a r i n e B l u e
8 0 / 2 0 B r a d p r i d e Soap Base
7054 Red I r o n Ox ide
7055 Y e l l o w I r o n Ox ide
7133 B l a c k I r o n Ox ide
43001 Manganese V i ol e t
SOURCE
Rona
Rona
B r a d f o r d
Rona
Rona
Rona
Rona
Section XIV Suppliers' Addresses
394
Suppliers’ Addresses 395
Agrashe l 1 I n c , 5934 Keys tone D r . Ba th , PA 18014 (215)-837-6705
A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . G l e n p o i n t C t r . W . 500 F rank W . B u r r 8 l v d . Teaneck, N J 07645 (201)-907-3244
Akzo Chemical s , I n c . 300 South R i v e r s i d e P l a z a Chicago, I L 60606 (312)-906-7500
A l b r i g h t & W i l s o n Amer icas P . O . Box 26229 Richmond, VA 23260 (804) -550-4300 / (800 ) -446-3700
A l l i e d S i g n a l , I n c . P.O. Box 2332R M o r r i stown, NJ 07962 (201 ) -455-2000
Amerchol Corp. P . O . Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. Ed ison , NJ 08818 (908)-248-6000
American C o l l o i d Co. Hwy 212W B e l l e Fourche, SD 57717 (605)-892-2591
Amoco Chemical Co. 200 E . Randolph D r . Chicago, I L 60601 (312) -856-3200 / (800 ) -621-4567
Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E. Lake Cook Rd. B u f f a l o Grove, I L 60089 (708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209
Aqua1 on 1313 N. Marke t S t . W i 1 m i n g t o n , DE 19899 (302) -594-5000 / (800 ) -345-8104
Atochem N o r t h Amer ica 900 M i l k S t . C a r t a r e t , NJ 07008 (908)-541-4414
BASF Corp . 100 C h e r r y H i 1 R d . P a r s i p p a n y , NJ 07054 (201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072
B e l l F l a v o r s & F rag rances , I n c 500 Academy D r . N o r t h b r o o k , I L 60062 (312) -291-8300 / (800 ) -323-4387
Berne l Chemical Co. , I n c . 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, N J 07631 (201)-569-8934
BK-Ladenburg Corp. 50 S p r i n g S t . C r e s s k i l l , NJ 07626 (201)-567-9100/(800)-526-2688
Brooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 70 T y l e r P l a c e South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-5200
Calgon Corp. P . O . Box 1346 P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15230 (41 2 ) -777-8000
C a p i t a l C i t y P r o d u c t s Co. 525 W . F i r s t Ave. Columbus, OH 43216 (61 4)-299-3131/( 800)-848-1340
396 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
CasChem, I n c . 40 Avenue A Bayonne, N J 07002 (201) -858-7900/ (800) -CAS-CHEM
Centerchem, I n c . 225 High Ridge R d . S tamford , CT 06905 (203)-975-9800
C i ba-Gei gy Corp. 410 Swing Rd. Greensboro, NC 27419
Colorcon, I n c . Moyer B l v d . West P o i n t , PA 19486
(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453
(21 5) -699-7733
A & E Connock, L t d . F o r d i n g s b r i dge, Hunts, UK
Croda, I n c . 7 Century D r . P a r s i ppany, N J 07054 (201)-644-4900
Dow Chemical USA 2020 Dow Center M id land , M I 48674 (800)-258-CHEM
Dow Corn ing Corp. Box 0994 Mid land , M I 48686 (51 7)-496-4000
Dragoco, I n c . 10 Gordon D r i v e Totowa, NJ 07512 (201)-256-3850
DuPont Co. 1007 Market S t . W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19898 (800)-441-7515
Eastman Chemical Co. P .O. Box 431 K i n g s p o r t , TN 37662 (615)-229-4006/(800)-EASTMAN
ECC Ameri ca 5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody Rd. A t l a n t a , GA 30342 (800)-843-3222
E . Merck Darmstadt , Germany
Fanni ng Corp. 2450 W . Hubbard S t . Chicago, I L 60612 (312)-563-1234
F i n e t e x , I n c . 418 Falmouth Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407 (201)-797-4686
F1 o r i da Food Produc ts , I nc . 2231 W . Hwy 44 E u s t i s , FL 32726 (904)-357-4141
H . B . F u l l e r Co. 3530 N . L e x i n g t o n Ave. S t . Paul , MN 55126 (612)-481-1588/(800)-468-6358
GE S i 1 i c o n e s 260 Hudson R i v e r Rd. W a t e r f o r d , NY 12188 (518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886
Givaudan-Roure Corp. 100 Delawanna Ave. C l i f t o n , N J 07015 (201)-365-8000
Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Corp. 914 E . Randolph Rd. Hopewel l , VA 23860 (804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809
Suppliers' Addresses 397
B.F. Goodr i ch Co. 991 1 B recksv i 11 e R d . C1 eve1 and , OH 441 41 (216)-447-5000/(800)-331-1144
Haarman & Reimer Corp. 60 Diamond R d . S p r i n g f i e l d , NJ 07091 (201)-912-5707/(800)-432-1559
Hampshi r e Chemical Co. 55 Hayden Ave. Lex i ng ton , MA 021 73 (61 7 ) -861 -6600
Henkel Corp . 11501 N o r t h l a k e D r . C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45299 (513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370
Hercu l es, I n c . Hercu les P1 aza W i 1 m i ng ton , DE 19894 (800)-247-4372
Hoechst Celanese Corp. 3340 W . N o r f o l k Rd. Portsmouth, VA 23703 (800)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960
Hoffman-LaRoche, I n c . 340 K i n g s l a n d S t . N u t l e y , NJ 07110 (201)-235-8080/(800)-526-0189
Hormel P.O. Box 800 Aust i n , MN 5591 2 (507)-437-5676
J.M. Huber Corp. T h o r n a l l S t . Ed ison, NJ 08837 (201)-549-8600
H u l s America, I n c . 80 C e n t e n n i a l D r . P i scataway, N J 08854 (908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339
Hydro1 abs , I n c . 27 E . 33 S t . Pa terson, NJ 07514 (201 ) -345-51 00
I C 1 Americas I n c . Concord Pi ke & New Murphy R d . W i 1 m i n g t o n , DE 19897 (302)-575-3034/(800)-822-8215
I n o l e x Chemical Co. Jackson & Swanson S t s . P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19148 (215)-271-0800/(800)-521-9691
ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y Prod 1361 A l p s Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201)-628-3000/(800)-848-7659
Ke lco D i v . Merck & Co., I n c . 8355 Aero D r i v e San D iego, CA 92123 (619)-292-4900/(800)-535-2656
Kemira, I n c . 1170 R t e 22E P . O . Box 6784 B r i dgewater , NJ 08807 (201) -526-4644/ (800) -4-KEMIRA
Koster-Keunen, I n c , P . O . Box 447 90 Bourne B l v d . S a y v i l l e , NY 11782 (51 6) -589-0456
Lanaetex P roduc ts , I n c . 151 3 Ave. E l i zabeth , NJ 07206 (908)-351-9700
L i p 0 Chemicals, I n c . 207 19 th Ave. Pa te rson , NJ 07504 (201 ) -345-8600
398 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lonza, I n c . 17-17 R t e . 208 F a i r Lawn, NJ 07410 (201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875
Mear l Corp . 41 E . 42 S t . New York , NY 10017 (212)-573-8500
Mona I n d u s t r i e s I n c . 76 E. 24 S t . P.O. Box 425 P a t e r s o n , NJ 07544 (201 ) -345-8220
M o r f l e x , I n c . 2110 H i g h P o i n t R d . Greensboro, NC 27403 (919)-292-1781
N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co. 10 F i n d e r n e Ave. B r i dgewater , NJ 08807 (908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115
N i p a L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . 104 Hag ley B l d g . Concord P1 aza 3411 S i l v e r s i d e Rd. W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19810 (302)-478-1522
O i Is o f A loha P . O . Box 685 66-935 Kaukonahua Rd. Wai a1 ua, Hawai i 96791 (800)-367-6010
01 i n Corp. 120 Long R idge Rd. P . O . Box 1355 Stamfo rd , CT 06904 (203)-356-2000/(800)-243-9171
O r i g i n a l B r a d f o r d Soap Works 200 P r o v i d e n c e S t . West Warwick, R I 02893 (401 ) -821 -21 41
Pentapharm L t d . Engelgasse 109, P.0.Box B a s e l , S w i t z e r l a n d
Penreco 138 P e t r o l i a S t . Karns C i t y , PA 16041 (412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952
P e t r o l i t e Corp. 6910 E 14 S t . T u l s a , OK 74112 (91 8) -836-1601
Phoenix Chemical Co., I n c . 322 C o u r t y a r d D r i v e S o m e r v i l l e , NJ 08876 (908)-707-0232
P h i l l i p s 66 Co. 376 P h i l l i p s B l d g . Annex B a r t l e s v i l l e , OK 74004 (806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327
P i l o t Chemical Co. 11756 Burke S t . Santa Fe S p r i n g s , CA 90670 (21 3) -723-0036
P o l y e s t h e r Corp . 61 H i l l S t . P . O . Drawer 5076 Southampton, NY 1 1 969 (51 6) -283-4400
PPG I n d u s t r i e s 3938 P o r e t t D r i ve Gurnee, I L 60031 (708)-244-3410/(800)-CHEM-PPG
P r o c t o r & Gamble Chemicals D i v . P . O . Box 599 C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45201 (513)-983-5607/(800)-543-1580
Quest I n t e r n a t i o n a l F rag rances 400 I n t e r n a t i o n a l D r . Mount O l i v e , NJ 07828 (201 ) -691 -71 00
Suppliers' Addresses 399
Rheox Inc. Wyckoff Mills Rd. Hightstown, NJ 08520 (609)-443-2320
Rhone-Poulenc Inc. Prospect Plai ns Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512
Dr. K. Richter GmbH Chemi sches Laboratori um Benni gonstrabe 25, D-1000 Berlin
(609)-860-4000
R. I .T.A. Corp. 1725 Ki 1 kenny Woodstock, IL 60098
Roche Chemical Di vi si on Hoffman-LaRoche, Inc. Nutley, NJ 07110
Rohm & Haas Co. Independence Mall West Philadelphia, PA 19105
(815)-337-2500/(800)-426-7759
(201 ) -235-8077 / (800 ) -526-0189
(215)-592-3000
Rona/EM Industries 5 Skyline Drive Hawthorne, NY 10532 (91 4)-592-4660
Frank 6. Ross Co., Inc. P.O. Box 4085 Jersey City, N J 07304
Scher Chemicals Inc. Industrial W cor Styertowne Rd Clifton, N J 07012
(201 ) -433-451 2
(201 )-471-1300
Shell Chemical Co. P.O. Box 2463 Houston, TX 77002 (71 3)-241-6161
Stepan Co. 22 W . Frontage Rd. Northfield, IL 60093 (708)-446-7500
Sun Chemical Corp. 411 Summit Ave. Cincinnati , OH 45232 (513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583
Sutton Laboratories, Inc. 116 Summit Ave. Cincinnati , OH 45232 (513)-681-5950/(800>-343-2583
Terry Laboratories, Inc. 390 N . Wickham Rd. P . O . Box 566 Melbourne, FL 32935 (407) -259-1630 / (800 ) -367-2563
Tioxide Speciaties Ltd. Billingham, Cleveland TS23 1PS United Kingdom 0642-370300
Tri-K Industries, Inc. P.O. Box 312 27 Bland St. Emerson, NJ 07630 (201) -261-2800 / (800 ) -526-0372
Trivent Chemical Co. 45 Ridge Rd. P.O. Box 597 South River, NJ 08882 (908)-251-1116
Unichema North America 4650 S. Racine Ave. Chicago, IL 60609 (312) -376-9000 / (800 ) -833-2864
Union Carbide Chemicals and
39 Old Ridgebury Rd. Danbury, CT 06817
P1 ast i cs
(203)-794-5300
400 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P . O . Box 5150 Norwal k , CT 06856 (203 ) -853-1 400
Van Dyk Ma in & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , NJ 07109 (201)-450-3264
Wacker S i l i c o n e s Corp. 3301 S u t t o n Rd. A d r i a n , M I 49221 (517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063
W h i t t a k e r , C l a r k & D a n i e l s 1000 C o o l i d g e S t . South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908) -561 -61 00
W i t c o Corp. ( A l l Groups) 1 ) O l e o s u r f a c t a n t s Group 2 ) P e t r o l eum Speci a1 t i es Group 3)Polymer A d d i t i v e s Group 520 Madison Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10022 (212)-605-3600
W i t c o Corp . 5777 F r a n t z R d . P . O . Box 646 D u b l i n , OH 43017 (614)-765-6500/(800)-366-6500
Zschimmer & Schwarz P.O. Box 2179 D-5420 L a h n s t e i n, West Germany
3V I n c . 1500 Harbo r B l v d . Weehawken, NJ 07087 (201 )-865-3600