Ephemeral Encounters Enduring Narratives

8/6/2019 Ephemeral Encounters Enduring Narratives

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Ephemeral Encounters, Enduring Narratives:Visitor Voices of Tangier

George F. Roberson

iscussions about Tangier, academic or otherwise, inevitably turn to geography and the city'slocation. Strategically sited(as shown in Figure 1) on the S trait of Gibraltar- t the intersectionof Europe, A frica, the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea- Tangier is at the nexus of one

of the four great land-sea crossroads of the ~ o r l d . ' ~ven as advances in air transportation andtelecommunications are drawing the world literally and figuratively- closer together, land and w aterinterconnectivity remains vitally important in both economic and cultural flows. Recent constructionprojects bear witness to the continued, indeed grow ing, importance of the city and its location, and also to theemergent dynamism of the-Tangier area.'' The ~im pac ts f these projects on the city will be significant. With. - - - - - - - - - - -the developments that w ill undoubtedly follow, the pace of chan ge is poised to accelerate even further in thecoming years. Accordingly, w ith change and location as the backdrop, the conference theme is well-timed indrawing attention to the diverse cultures, intertwined histories, and disparate voices of Tangier. This paperhighlights the perspective of one of the city's constituent groups, that of its visitors.I argued that visitorperceptions, although often based on brief encounters with the city, have created enduring narratives thatcontributea powerful voice in the construction of the city.

Figure 1. Strait of Gibraltar.(Image source: http:Nwww.uca.eslotros/anasim~gibraltar/fotossatelites.html)How w e look, of course, impacts what we see. Consequen tly, a fundamental aspect of research and

representation has to do with point of view; another is the search for enduring qualities. Figure 2, showingthe view from Place d e Faro, conveys a sen se of both: an enduring quality of Tangier is the ubiquitous viewsof distant mountains and shimmering seas; it also represents one of the perspectives on the city, from theinside looking out.

Xh- The others are: the Strait of Malacca (Singap ore), the Suez Canal, and the Panama Canal."- These projects include, a free trade zone; a major new train station; a significantly expanded regional road system ; a

massive new international container port; and, real progress on the long stalled trans-straits tunnel project.*'- Given the often s alacious and contentious nature of visitor narratives about the city,i t could be said that their volces

contribute, for better 01- worse, to the construction of the city.


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Figure 2. A Tan gier view fro m inside the city lookingout.(Image source: Author's collection,2003)That perspective can be transposed with an opposite view, from the outside looking in. This represents

another enduring quality of the city: the long history of outside in fl ue nc e8 bd the regular flow of visitorsinto the city. This perspective is represented by the image show n in Figure3; it is the first glimpse of the citythat is seen by the 1.7 million annual non-resident arrivals down at the city port.g0This is the perspective thatthis paper builds upon: looking in at the city from the outside. It is also the perspective from which I have

come to know the city since I first visited in 1991.It is an important perspective because in a city-regionwith so many visitors and nearly 150 lodging establishments with 12,000 beds, the direct daily impact ofvisitors on the city is not insignificant.9' This persp ective provides an apt point of entry into thinking aboutthe tourist cultures of the city; it also provides the opportunity to think about Tangier as a point of "firstcontact" between diverse cu ltures. These encounters result in potential opportunities and potential conflictsfor visitors and residents alike.

Figure3. A Tangier view from outsidethe city looking in. (Image source: Author's collection,2003)

XLJ- Vaidon 1977,p. I .""- For the year 2004: Ministere du Tourisme; annual arrivals fluctuate,it was 1.4 million in 2003."- hese statistics are according to "Tourism Trends"; estimates vary however, in an interview with Mr. Abassi Said,

o f th r Tangier Tourist Office,he placed t h e current total at 6,000 beds. Whatever the actual number, huge growth inlodging is in the works w ith an additional 10,000 beds currently under developmentin the Tangier region (Ministeredu Tourisme).


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This a er uses a place-based approach: this requires some explanation. "Geographers studplaces" a :nd places exist acros s a broad spatial scale. The y may be, for example , a personal placlike a favorite corner in a caf6; or, an informal place, like an outdoor souq that can always expandaccommod ate another seller; or, a physically bou nded place, like the walled medina; or, a politicadefined place like the city itself. A central concern for cultural geographers is to consider hoplaces are made and maintained. It involves interaction with the environment, conceptual aimaginative processes, and verbal, textual and visual expression. The most basic components place-making, then, can b e divided into two geograph ic worlds: the outer worlds of the environmwhere we build things like homes andn e i g h b o r h o ~ d s ~ ~ a n d ,he inner worlds of the mind where weconstruct imaginary places like Said has explained. Naturally, the places of the shared ouworlds influences our private inner worlds and vice versa. In this way, place-making never enThis pager uses a place-based approach: this requires some explanation. "Geographers stuplaces""y emp loy ing a place-based appro ach,9 5 ~ raw attention t o the interaction between theseworlds. In this paper, I do this by looking at place-narratives contained in words and images. Oprose and place, cultural geographer Tuan has said, "a g reat city may be seen as the constpction-

ttswelta sond"h- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Wha t constituent groups, or in this case what "voices", are there in the city, how d o wdelineated them, who holds the power, and what roles do they play in the place-making of the ci"Insiders" and "outsiders" is one way to think about people's r elations hip with the city.A cityresident, for example, might be considered either one or the other depending on the individual ahow you view things. Indeed, an individual's lifeworld97 and temporal associations with a placegreatly impacts their knowledge of it. For example, a lifelong resident of Tangier knowsdifferently than a member of its' foreign writerlartist community; both in turn, know it differenthan a visitor. And , certainly "visitors" themselves do not constitute a monolithic group; they cbe subdivided in a num ber of ways, lik e into "long-term" and "short-term" categories." Somelong-term examples include students, temporary workers, expats, or people who live elsewhere come back to the city again and again; and so me short-term visitors, which is the primary concernthis paper, includes p eople like the day trippers from Costa del Sol, the escorted "package" tourior the backpack ers just passing throug h the city.99 In this latter sense, visitor voices are clearlsubset of the "outsiders" catego ry, however, regardless of the categories used,I argue that everyonecontributes to the place-making of the city.lr n

Intimately tied to tourist cultures are the closely related narrative genres of travel w riting, traguidebooks, and travel brochures. Each tells a story about the city and stories are alwaysimportant part of experiencing a new place. Stories are read, heard, and told, not just in words,also in images. They repeat certain themes; they create expectations; they convey perspective city ma od- Lnlhis-way, equally pow wf ul- t~ he-$ysiealpresenee-of-so many vi si to rs i n ~ h eity Tsthe ongoing patticipation of the visitors and these place-narrativeslo ' in the imaging of the city by the stories

"'- uan 1977, p. 3.'"aul. ed . 1988. Said 19 78"- ~n tr ik in 991; p. 300.''- lace-theory stands in contrast to a landscape approach which has used an objectivist perspective, or what N

(1986) critiqued as the "view from nowhere".Place-theory, according to Entrikin (1991, p. 300, 307-9). liknarrative forms, uses a centered point of view from where both the relatively subjective sense of place andrelatively objective physical aspects of place may be simultaneously considered.'" - uan 1991, p. 686.

''- ifeworld is concerned with the day-to-day practices of individual's lives and the recognition that this perspective worthy of analysis; for more information seeB uttim er 1976, p. 277.

"'- here are often animosities and conflicts between and within these groups. Impacts of tourism has become a mfield of inquiry, particularly in the field of Anthropology. For more about tourism theory see Graburn 1Lafrgen 199 9, and Nash 1989.In this way, categorization is a useful tool of analysis; however, the im position of analytical binaries, in particcan be problematic and often work to obscure large and interesting gray areas.

I l- Urban tourism has becom e a huge business, for a variety of perspectives on the tourist city see Judd 1999.IL"- Narrative provides an important point of view because the speaker is identified and is clearly at the center o

action; plus, in this way, it is notjust the "professional" who is doing the looking. Use of narrative also expands tnarrow r x n g e of available qualitative methods, ic. intcrvicws, focus g~ .oup s, nd ethnography.


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they tell and retell. Winding their way through all of these media, I have found four reoccuning Tangierplace-themes, they are: I. the closeness of Europ e and Africa; 2. the sense of place (what it feels like);3. thephysical aspects of place: the cityscape (layout, functionality, etc.); and,4. the city's history and its place inhistory. The next sections of the paper lookas examples drawn from a variety of travel narratives.

Let us now compare the narratives of two city tourist brochures: one from 1929, as the colonial projectwas really taking hold - and the other, from 1960 following Moroccan independence. Together withprose, both brochures use photographs, maps, and drawings to weave together a particular way ofseeing and comprehending the city. Th e older one, a comprehensive city guide of nearly a hundredpages, is divided into two nearly equal length sections. one for display advertisements and the other forcity-description a nd promo tion. In this case, the broch ure's visual devic es tell a particularly revealingand persuasive story. Prominently featured to preface the city-promotion section of the brochure is aphotograph of the city from the water; it is like the one shown in Figure3, where the city is viewedfrom the outside looking in. Likewise, the brochure, a product of the colonial administration, is readilyunderstood as the creation of outsiders and in the service of outsiders.

Another image, shown in Figure4,is an advertisement fortransportation from France andEngland to Tangier. Beyond theeffort to sell more ferryboat andtrain tickets, it is clearly a visualeffort to draw the city closer toEurope. Notice how the fen yroute is cleverly shown byaddressing perennial touristconcerns: it asserts that sailing for

Tangier is fast, safe, andconfortable. In addition, Tangier'sstatus is elevated, it is depicted onpar with the leading Europeancapitals of London and Paris.Notice too, how the desing of theimage also works to subvertSpain's geographic advantage, inthe form of closeness, in theEuropean competition for controlof Morocco; Spain is shown asdisconnected, indeed, it almostdisappears entirely. Another mapin the brochure, shown in Figure5,also emphasizes Tangier's locationand connectedness. But in this

image, it refers to city'srelationship to the rest of theworld; Tangier's, it suggests, it thecenter of the world. Theseexamples of the perceptualmani~ulationof sDace can be seen

Figure 3. Drawing Tangier in the F rench sphere. as a' part of thi larger colonial(Image Source: Tnnger: W inter Resort, Summer Resort. p. 3 ) project of the physical

appropriation of space.

Another set of images show s the Tangier airport. In the pioneering days of regular passenger airservice , it positions th e city as high-tech, progressive, and modern. The overall message of thebrochure is clear: the Tangier of 1929 , the International City, is innovative, on the move, and a place of


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the future. The colonial project , of course, was p o w ~ p l ,y 1952 nearly a third of the city'spopulation was of ou tside, primarily Europ ean, extraction.

Figure-4. Tangier- a s-t he cen t e r~ f he-world, - - - - - - - - -(Image source: Tanger: Wint er Resort, Summer Resort. p. 3 2 )

Likewise, the 1960 city brochure sets the tourist stage with a perspectival photograph on thecover. Shown in Figur e6, it features the distinctive Moroccan shaped minaret of the Sidi Bou Ab idMosque. The photograph looks from within the city toward the traditional city center at the GrandSocco. In contrast, however, to the potent images of the1929 brochure, the more powerfulrepresentation of the city is perhaps found in its prose; in addition, produced by national touristauthorities in Rabat, the broch ure ha s no outside advertisements, it is solely focused on the imagingof the city itself. In placing the city, it reaches back well before the European intrusions; itemphasizes the city as a place of myth witha long, varied, and colorful history. It finds the city'splace in history as defined by significant African, Arab, European and Med iterranean influences andinterconnections.

The brochure also highlights the city's range of international cuisine, the beach and othersportin g oppo rtunities , and a slat e of "respectable" entertain ment. It also includes detailed listingshighlighting the city's role, though markedly dim inished, as a political and banking center. Taken asa whole, the brochure asserts that T angier is still of international stature despite its reintegration intothe newly independent Mo rocco . Further, the brochure can be seen as participating in a national

"" Scua~r 1 9 5 5 , p. 183. Tne population IS l~stedhus: 105,000 Moslems, 15,000 Jews, 52,000 E urope ans (and othel.s),for a total of 172.00.

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Figure 5. Post-colonialrepositioning of tourist Tangier.(Image source:Tmgi er, Laruche, Asilah. p. front cover)

post-colonial repositioning, or decolonizing,of the city by providing a revised citynarrative for visitors (and residents) tofollow.

Turning now to some recent travelguidebooks we hear some very differentstories about the city. Of Tangier andMorocco, The Rough Guid e says,

"Though just an hour's ride on the ferryfrom Spain, it seems at once very far fromEurope, with a culture - slamic and deeplytraditional - that is almost whollyunfamiliar." '03 Rather than srpirr the city'scrossroads and internatior, , L or ncter, itemphasizes the contrast ' :ifferencebetween Tangier and nearby ' >pe. LikeSaid's Orienta l i sm it invokes a sense ofadventure, a sense of dislocation,timelessness, and mystery. Anotherguidebook, Let ' s Go , adds to these heavycity expectations, it says, "Visitors whorestrict their tour of Morocco to Tangier .often come away exhausted, dizzy andpickpocketed."'04 True or untrue, typical or

not, such prose creates a hostile atmospherebefore the visitor even arrives in the-cit12:

But, the underlying message is clear and all-too-common: be wary of everyone and everything,

and, move on away from Ta ngier as soon as possible. Another guidebook,Lonely Planet, builds onthese themes and creates excitement by highlighting the sinister and salacious, it says,

While it's a compelling sort of city and a popular port of entry for tourists, Tan gier is also home to som eof the world's best h ustlers. Perched on Morocco's northern tip, its international flavour remains strong; asdoes its reputation for inspiring shady deals and harbouring foreign misfits. Back in the days when Tangie rwas a neutral international zone the Petit Socco]p rovide d the background for the seediest of lifestyles andit hasn't completely lost this air.,ab

Despite almost continual changes in the city, such recent city representations might lead one tobelieve that nothing has changed in Tangier since Twain's 1868 visit. In his travel accou nt of thecity, he says,

We wanted something thoroughly and uncompromisingly foreign... nothing to remind us ofany other people or any other land under the sun. And lo! In Tangier we have found it.- -

Tang ier is a fore ign la nd if e ver ther e was one.'''A review of the literature shows that such stories as these are told again and again; they even

span the passing centuries. Another visitor to the city, traveling in1928,could well be the referencefor the passage from The Rough Guide quoted above, it says, "In Tangier we are only a few milesfrom Europe and the Rock of Gibraltar, but we are centuries removed from modem life andcivilization." 'Ox Wh at about the air service to Tangier highlighted in the1929 city brochure, or themap showing ships from Tangie r bound for ports all over the world?

101_ Ellingham 1993, unnumbered introduction.1114- Tromanhauser, ed. 1991, p. 506.lo'- ndeed, written above my bed at the Tangier Youth Hostel (in 2000 and still there in 2006 ) was the often repeated

traveler's mantra, "Trust no one in Tangier.""Ih- http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/africa/moroccolprintable.htm""- T wain 1869 (1911 reprint), p. 64.""- Carpenter 19 28. facing p. 2.


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These narratives stand in an interesting contrasting to Wharton who visited in 1918; she had anall together different view of Tangier, of the city she says, "Tangier- cosm opolitan, frowsy,

109familiar Tangier, that every tourist has visited for the last forty years. It makes one wonder,which do visitors crave more - novelty and contrast? - or, do they simply crave the telling, or thehearing, of a good story?

Turning to a travel article in the New York Times in 1998, we find yet another spin on travelstories and motivations, it says,

[A] s cities have evolved into products, certain destinations have a short shelf life. Eventually they passtheir "sell by" date andpeop le beg in to object: "But nobody goes there anymore."

Take T angier. Poised at the tip of Africa, just across the Strait of G ibr alta rjlo m Spain, it existed fordecades in a sort of e xistential ether, part h allucinatory state of mind, part In ternational Zon e ru led byEuropea n delegations.

[But now] . Tangier-style decadence doesn't req uire relocation to the North AJncan littoral; drugs, sexand rock-a nd-roll are now available in far more livid o rms at the local strip mall.'

This passage seems to reflect the colonial nostalgia that Said w as talking about"' - the loss ofwhat might be called the "good old days," when home (Europe and the U.S.A.) were kept "sacred"while the colonies were "profane" play places where anything goes"2 Surely present day Tangierhas more to offer today's visitors than merely a melancholic sojourn into the past in a hopelesssearch for lost colonial landscapes.

Until recently only a relatively small number of travel narratives were published and distributedNow, with the recent explosion of blogg ing1I3, every visitor ha s the opportun ity to voice theirunfiltered views to the world. Anyone seeking information or advice about Tangier (or anywhereelse) can access volumes of stories and images with a simple internet search. Although visitonarratives are often based on brief exposure to the city, this does not appear to diminish their

popularity or assumed authority. Here are several Tangier travel blog examples that commen t onsome of the Tangier place-themesI have been tracing in this paper:We both felt our adventure was truly beginning when we left the relative comfort of Europe and headed

into Africa. Becky had been reading in the Morocco Lonely Planet guide that we were going to meet anonslaught of touts, thieves, and other unsavo ry characters as soon as our boat pulled into port. Sh e was verynervous about going to Morocco by the time we left spain fl4.

The Petit Socco ... [has] the worst reputation. Right here, drug deals are made, human smugglingplanned nnd prostitution performed. But a fter sitting there in a coffee shop for two hours, trying to spot anyof these activities,I had t o give up1''.

Ver y, very poor place th e poorest I'v e ever seen ... wonder how in 21st century people live in [such]misery so c lose to ~ u r o ~ e ' ' ~ .

In these passages we can see the particularly powerful impact of the guidebooks on city visitors:bloggers often high light and repea t the things they have read in their guidebooks. In this way, allthese different travel narratives, with the aid of the imagination, often work together to construct afantastical imaginary Tangier that could hardly exist in the physical world: could it really be so

different, so dangerous, so lawless, so miserable? Some people so fully embrace their imaginaryversion of Tangier that it becomes real: everyone is suspect, anything is possible; for others, theexperience of the city does not live up to the imagina ry world and they are left disillusioned.

In conclusion, let us now briefly compare the common T angier place-themesI identified at theoutset with their corresponding short-term visitor narratives. I'll re state the general themes here: 1

I Wharton 1920, p. 4.I IO _ Mewshaw 1998. p. TR13.111- For Said on colonial nostalgia see Paul, ed. 1988.'"- For a discussion of contrasting perceptions of colonial and noncolonial spaces in the context of Tangier see Dellal.

M.. "Tangier: An Exotic Haven, or Achilles' Heel?'in Lacey and Poole 1996.113- A form of personal diary which is posted on the internet for public consumption; here are many sites that offer free

blogging in easy to use formats that integrate text and images.http://www.blazingatrail.com/joumalslmoroccojoumall.html

I Is - http://lcnieo~iont.oom/mo~-urru/lungi~r I I ~ I I I

I"- http://www.greatestcities.co~dusers/monddAfric~orocco~angier


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the closeness of Europe and Africa; 2, the sense of place (what it feels like);3. the physical aspectsof place: the cityscape (layout, functionality, etc.); and,4. the city's history and its place in history.As we have seen, the visitor narratives repeatedly highlight points of conflict and contention inregards to these place-themes, they can be summarized thus:1. an absolute difference and contrastwith Europe; 2. warnings about legions of hustlers and hassles;3. laments over the city's lost andglorious past; and,4. portrayals of the city as primarily a bothersom e transit point on the way furthersouth in Morocco. ll fi nd yet, although not necessarily detailed here, there also exists a powerfulbody of evidence, from other voices, from other constituent groups, with longer and differentassociations with the city, that provide counter points on each of these themes. The city is alsounderstood as: 1. a hybrid place of significant European , African, Arab connections ;2. a safe haven,a place of tolerance and creativity; 3. a destination and a meeting place; and,4. a place that isconstantly being made and remade, both physically and figuratively. Seemingly these broad andcontrasting city qualities endure side-by-side.

These points, and counter points, will probably continue to be debated, but as my final point,Iwant to emphasize that with place-making we are not just concerned with the past and the present,but also with the future. What w ill the city be like in the future? Wh at could it be like? What dopeople want it to be like? And, I want to emphasize the role of language in this place-makingprocess because as Tuan ha s said, words have the power to "build, sustain, and destroy.""8 Stories,their points of view and their enduring qualities, are important as we reconsider the crossroads cityof Tangier at the crossroads of change.

A version of this paper was given at the Voices of Tangier Conference on January28, 2006 inTangier, Morocco. I would also like to extend a wholehearted thank you to K halid Amine, AndrewHussey , and Barry Tharaud for all their efforts in putting on the conference.

Huma n Dimensions Research Grou p Departm ent of Geosciences,Universityof Massachusetts - Amherst

"'- nclud~nghe CF P for this conference as w ell as other papers presented here.' " Tuan 1991, p. 694.


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Ephemeral Encounters Enduring Narratives

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