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my homemade wood stove (wood burning stoves forum at permies)

http://www.permies.com/t/18822/wood-burning-stoves/homemade-wood-stove[6/8/2014 11:33:57 AM]

posted Saturday, November 10, 2012 6:40:28 AM

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Author my homemade wood stove

Clifford Gallington

Joined: Nov 08, 2012Posts: 85Location: Kansas

After about a month of weekends I have finished my wood burning stove, I hesitate to call it a rocket heater but it is buil

the rocket stovedesign.

I used a piece of 18 inch oil well steel casing for the body, 6 inch square tubing with 1/4 inch walls, and for the center tub

used 4 inch 1/4 inch wall pipe, my stove pipe is 4 inch 1/4 inch wall steel pipe that then transitions to 4 inch heavy duty

exhaust pipe then through the roof of the garage with 4 inch double walled insulated stainless pellet stove pipe.

The base and top of the body are 1/4 inch plate.

My fresh air intake is mounted below the fire box square tube and is 4 inch diameter with dampers on ether end that can

adjusted, this is welded over a 3 x 6 inch hole in the bottom of the firebox square tube.

the legs are 1 1/4 pipe

the body has a clean out door made out of 14 ga steel as well as the chimney port has a clean out also.

the door is made out of 14 ga steel, 1 x 1/8 steel strap, an old glass pan lid, some bolts and sealed with fire proof rope.

My riser tube is wrapped with three layers of fire proof insulation and held in place with steel wire and chicken wire.

I have done three successful burns with the last one this morning with the full length of chimney.

I finished the chimney installation late this afternoon and installed my heater, I will do a test run again tomorrow, but I d

anticipate any thing different than the run I had this morning,

IMAG0448.jpg

finished and installed with new chimney
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IMAG0443.jpg

three hour test burn thismorning


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IMAG0444.jpg

fire box about 20 minutes into the test burn


4/23



posted Saturday, November 10, 2012 6:44:12 AMClifford Gallington


here are a couple of the pictures during the build

IMAG0403.jpg

looking down into the body at the riser and fire box

IMAG0399.jpg

fire box riser tube and air intake, back is still open


5/23



posted Saturday, November 10, 2012 6:48:34 AM

IMAG0416.jpg

door

Clifford Gallington


these are tee temperatures that I seem to get at the top of the heater directly over my riser tube, I put the riser tube tow

the back so I could have different temps on the top if I wanted to do some cooking on it.

IMAG0445.jpg


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temp on the top of heater after about 35 minutes

IMAG0423.jpg

temp on the first test burn on the top of the heater


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IMAG0398.jpg

the tube I started with, I had to jack it back into round


8/23



posted Saturday, November 10, 2012 8:05:27 PMClifford Gallington


My sets fire this morning went well, I had a little more trouble lighting this morning than the previous three times, but I

believe that was my own fault by how I loaded the fire box.

I was hoping that with the long fire box I could get the entire length of the wood to burn but that is not the case, just the

of the wood burns under the riser tube and back about three inches or so.

it was 54 degrees this morning so it was not very cold out, it is supposed to be 20 tomorrow morning so I will see how w

this heater works then.

We are just under 3000 feet for the ground elevation above sea level here in Kansas where I live, over all so far so good.

I do have a grate made out of 1/4 inch heavy expanded steel with welded on bolts that I can adjust up or down, I did rem

the grate today while it was burning to see if there was a difference and to give me room for bigger diamater wood, but I

it burns better with the grate, I may adjust it down some though.

I used an Ir temperature reader to take the readings at the op of the stove pipe at the roof level and it was about 114, a

the bottom of the stove where the stope pipe comes out was about 260 and half way up the body of the stove was aroun

and the coolest part of the top was 400 and the hotest part over the riser tube was 560 or so.

The wind was blowing out side, which is very common here in Kansas, I had every intention of putting in a damper befor

got everything together but the store did not have the size I needed and I forgot to go to the other one that I knew had

IMAG0432.jpg

the grate with legs


9/23



IMAG0431.jpg

legs are nuts welded to the corners of the expanded steel with bolts in them


10/23



IMAG0451.jpg

first time operating in the garage


11/23



posted Sunday, November 11, 2012 6:04:07 AM


posted Sunday, November 11, 2012 3:08:19 PM


Aj French

Joined: Oct 13, 2012Posts: 19Location: Mahanoy City, PA

Neat! hope it is going well. how much space are you heating? thinking of adding some thermal mass to that?

Clifford Gallington


Thanks AJ, I am trying to heat a 20 x 25 garage, I really had not thought about adding any thermal mass because I did

want to loose the space, but after reading your question I got to thinking that space is already being used because I can

put anything there when the heater is running. Defiantly something to think about.

Do you have any good ideas?

Aj French

Joined: Oct 13, 2012Posts: 19Location: Mahanoy City, PA

Well I have no ingenious idea's and its hard to say since im not sure what your working on in your garage. I would like

something that has atleast two uses. Instead of just some mass, make a small heated table. Since your obviously good w

metal working you could make a small metal table built slightly encapsulating the thick exhaust pipe. Without using mate

that conduct and store heat well (Your using more materials that insulate from heat compared to say, cob or water) your

wouldnt reach the same high heats (which would make it unusable) , but it would certainly heat up. So what about a hea

tool cleaner, or just a spot to dry/warm gloves or boots? I personally, am hard on my tools and come across very "used"

so a warm oil bath or two stage tool cleaner, would be my experiment. Just throwing things out there, didnt get much tim

think about it but since I didnt think much about my first post and that one seemed to give you a thought, maybe this on

would spark an idea. hhmmm, already reconsidering what I've wrote....oh well. Maybe ill have something smarter to say

haha.

Cheers!

Clifford Gallington
http://www.permies.com/u/155172/Aj-Frenchhttp://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-serieshttp://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-serieshttp://www.permies.com/u/155172/Aj-French


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Yesterday afternoon I removed the grate, and changed the rain cap to one that is lot less restrictive than I had before, th

morning when I lit the fire it started a lot easier, I used one sheet of news paper and some thinly split pieces of hard woo

pallet board, once the fire has heated everything up and the fire burns the whole length of the fire box now, before it wo

only burn under the riser pipe and back about three inches.

I thought the grate would allow more air flow, but it appears that the air wants to come across the top of the wood and t

is happier with the wood laying on the bottom of the fire box.

I am quite happy with this wood stove today.

I wonder if I could cut an opening in the front of the body of the stove near the top and weld in an oven box out of some

steel and put a door on the front or would this make the air flow not work very well insode?

any thoughts or ideas about this would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Cliff

IMAG0453.jpg

fire without the grate is now burning the length of the fire box

allen lumleypollinator

Joined: Mar 16, 2012Posts: 2115Location: Northern NewYork Zone4-5 the OUTER'RONDACs percip 36''

- I notice in your 4th picture your stove is set up to radiate the most heat away from your nearest wall and doorway, hav

got that right? I also noted the door (1st picture) has interior hardware on it , is this an attached Garage ? I mention this

cause the wall appears to be pretty close and ? 'dressed' with Sheet Rock ? - So I'm betting that you have 2 X 6s under t

Sheet Rock , I just wanted to propose that you try dry stacking an 'L' shaped False wall of bricks/patio pavers (like you ha

under the stove) between the stove and the near wall with an air gap, and around your chimney, the idea is Not to make

room harder to heat , just add on a little bit more security ! The pavers will also add some thermal mass and give you an

to see if you might want to add some more ! g'LUCK !!! pyro - maticly yours Allen L. p.s. please continue to update your

results/history with this GREAT looking stove !

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http://www.permies.com/u/151243/allen-lumleyhttp://www.permies.com/u/151243/allen-lumley


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posted Monday, November 12, 2012 3:35:39 AM

posted Thursday, November 15, 2012 5:21:38 PM

posted Thursday, November 15, 2012 6:05:49 PM

posted Saturday, November 17, 2012 5:28:36 PM



posted Wednesday, November 21, 2012 4:17:50 AM

Success has a Thousand Fathers , Failure is an Orphan

LOOK AT THE " SIMILAR THREADS " BELOW !

Clifford Gallington


Hi Allen, that door goes to the outside, and yes this garage is attached to the house, the house door is at the other end a

across the garage.

I Think you may be correct with the amount of heat that is behind the stove and the wall behind it may be plenty warm.

I like your idea about the paving stones, I do have more like those that the stove sits on, and I also have quite a numbe

brick street paving stones from town here that I could use as well.

could a person brick up around the back and the chimney area real close to the stove? like touching the stove body or alm

touching it?

two layers of brick deep?

Thanks for the suggestion

Cliff

frank kralik

Joined: Nov 15, 2012Posts: 8

Good job Cliff. What is temperature reading of your exhaust pipe, starting from the barrel?

Clifford Gallington


Thank You Frank

The tempurature at the bottom where the stove pipe connects runs about 240 to 260 degrees, the tempurature at the top

the stove pipe just as it goes through the roof is around 100 to 114 degrees, the flashing around the stove pipe runs abo

degrees at the top

frank kralik


What about if you make an oven box near the top on the outside , like 12" x 8" x 6" size . It should give enough heat to

your measured temperature near top was around 400 F right?

Clifford Gallington


That is a good idea Frank! I wonder if it could just sit on the top?

Also an update on the temperature at the stove pipe base...after an all morning burn yesterday while I was working in the

garage and using hard wood pallets as fuel the temperature was at 300 degrees f.

frank kralik


Thanks for temperature update.

If you put oven box on top, the temperature might be too high for baking. My wife bakes bread at 400F. So I would just s

find the right spot where the temperature will be good for your baking needs, and place the box there.

Clifford Gallington


I was trying to think of a good way to bake on this heater, I kicked around about a dozen ideas, then decided to take a n

functioning toaster oven and stripping put the electrical parts and then putting it back together and sticking it on the top

stove.

what I wound up doing is after opening up the toaster oven and stripping out the unnecessary parts I added insulation ar

the oven box and between it and the outside skin, then put it all the way back together.

frank kralik wrote:

Good job Cliff. What is temperature reading of your exhaust pipe, starting from the barrel?

I wonder if I could cut an opening in the front of the body of the stove near the top and weld in an oven box out of some 14 ga

steel and put a door on the front or would this make the air flow not work very well insode?
http://www.permies.com/u/155788/frank-kralikhttp://www.permies.com/u/155788/frank-kralik


14/23



Initial trial did not heat up to more than about 150 degrees, so I removed the bottom of the oven, which was just a crum

tray/door and put it back on top of the heater.

with a decent fire going I was able to get the temperature up to 375 in about 10 minutes, then I put in a tray of frozen c

dough snicker doodles! and the temperature gauge.

the temp doped to about 325 degrees and in about 8 minutes was back at 350 where the cookies were supposed to be fo

cooking so I closed one of the air inlets to keep the fire consistent. I left them in an other 10 minutes and the temp was

consistently staying at 350 then I took the cookies out, they were almost perfectly done, I do think I could have left them

for an other couple of minutes and they would have been just a little better.

After the cookies were removed I stuck the temp gauge back in and closed the door, and with in a minute or so it was ha

around 350 degrees.

I still need to cover the holes in the front of the oven where the control knobs were so the insulation is not exposed, I thi

will use a piece of tin from the crumb tray and roll the edges to make a cover for them.

here are a few photos

IMAG0475.jpg

IMAG0481.jpg


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IMAG0483.jpg


16/23






Rion Mather

Joined: May 31, 2012Posts: 644

Thanks for the advice, Clifford. Heck, you could place pots on top to cook with your heater. Or to go with your previous id

maybe even add an extended top and create an oven. But hey, if the toaster oven is working great, then why bother.

I do love the look of your heater. It looks a lot like a regular wood stove. It is by far my favorite design that I have seen

Is there anything behind it?

http://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/forum

Clifford Gallington


Thanks! I still think I will make a permanent oven some time, I think I will cut it into the body towards the top, I hope to

a nice cast iron door to start with and build the oven from there.

I do not have anything behind the heater yet, I am kind of thinking about bricks around the back side, but may just go w

piece of something on the wall to shield the heat

I don't know?

Rion Mather

Forgive me but I don't know much about rocket mass heaters. What size of square footage can you heat with that? How

Rion Mather wrote:

Thanks for the advice, Clifford. Heck, you could place pots on top to cook with your heater. Or to go with your previous idea,

maybe even add an extended top and create an oven. But hey, if the toaster oven is working great, then why bother.

I do love the look of your heater. It looks a lot like a regular wood stove. It is by far my favorite design that I have seen yet. Is

there anything behind it?

1
http://www.permies.com/u/152566/Rion-Matherhttp://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/forumhttp://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/forumhttp://www.permies.com/u/152566/Rion-Mather


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posted Monday, November 26, 2012 11:54:09 PM

Joined: May 31, 2012Posts: 644 doing? How much wood do you need?

Clifford Gallington


I am heating my garage which is about 500 square feet, the garage door is not insulated and the rafters are open is a lot

heat is leaving the garage in these areas.

So far it has not been really cold, but I burnt about the amount of small tree branches that would fit in a five gallon bask

about 8 hours maybe, it is slow to heat the area but will warm up from 30 f. To about 55 in an hour, I put a fan behind it

then I can get he whole garage to 60 in an hour.

I know once I insulate my door and put in a ceiling I can heat this area a lot quicker and get it quite warm.

I went and picked up pieces of coal they falls off of the trains and am test that tonight, after about two hours of burning

very comfortable.

Wood branches and pieces of broken shipping pallets need to be added to the fire about every 30 to 45 minuts, but again

the insulation is in the burn can be slowed down with the vents and may only have to tend the fire every hour or more af

is established.

Clifford Gallington


Coal.....NO!

I have burnt coal in a coal/wood stove and enjoied the consistent hot heat, but my heater ....not the same, it burns smo

consistent but the smoke out of the chimney is heavy and grey, it makes the neighborhood smell like assfault

Adding wood in the fire box cleans up the smoke and makes great heat again.

Well glad I do not have any more coal.

Sorry neighbors about that smoke

Rion Mather


From a sales standpoint, the stove seems to be a great idea because you could switch it out easily with a regular woodsto

which are really popular in this region. Like I said, I am not familiar with rocket stoves but if you could get that to pass co

then you would have a great replacement for conventional wood stoves. You definitely need a surround, at least in my ar

free standing stoves and fireplaces.

Both of my jobs are in sales, so I tend to think that way.

allen lumleypollinator

Joined: Mar 16, 2012Posts: 2115Location: Northern NewYork Zone4-5 the OUTER'RONDACs percip 36''

Rion Mather : My rule is never live in a Town with a Stop light, never live in a house you can't peeoff of your own back

steps,and being a fire man I am not afraid of the Insurance Co. Works for me !

Checkout the 'threads others have visited' below Pyro-Al.

Rion Mather


Clifford gave me advice on how to salvage my toaster oven in another thread. I have to be honest and say the look of his

caught my eye. Maybe that is the different perspective that I bring to the table. I am concerned with the visual appeal of

product as much as the functionality. His stove does have an old time but modern industrial look to it - very sleek, minim

and cool.

I will take your advice Allen since all I am not familiar with the smaller stoves.

Clifford Gallington


Rion Mather wrote:

From a sales standpoint, the stove seems to be a great idea because you could switch it out easily with a regular woodstove, wh

are really popular in this region. Like I said, I am not familiar with rocket stoves but if you could get that to pass code, then you

would have a great replacement for conventional wood stoves. You definitely need a surround, at least in my area, for free stand

stoves and fireplaces.

1

1

30

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http://www.permies.com/t/3965/homestead/women-peeing-outdoorshttp://www.permies.com/t/3965/homestead/women-peeing-outdoors


18/23



posted Tuesday, November 27, 2012 1:35:10 AM

posted Tuesday, November 27, 2012 6:19:45 AM



I think before it could be marketed the body should be nade out of lighter material so it transfers or radiates heat quicke

maybe even using stainless fire box and heat riser to make the whole thing lighter.

I do not know that getting it to the point of meeting code and being marketed would be much fun for me, I tend to be m

the lets see what can be put together out of these parts or fixing old unwanted/broken tools, just tinkering and solving lit

problems.

Rion you are welcome to take the design and do anything you would want, I figured if it worked out and I put my progres

trial and error on here someone who was a lot smarter and understood more of these things may get a bright idea and m

perfect heater.

Rion Mather


I'm more interested in the food business than the stove business. Ha! Again, I love the style of the stove. It has a nice

steampunk quality and would work well with a lot of my railroad antiques so I am going to keep it in mind. I have bookm

the thread. Cheers, Clifford.

Clifford Gallington

Joined: Nov 08, 2012

Posts: 85Location: Kansas

I had no idea what steampunk was so I got the google out! You are going to laugh but I almost ...instead of welding the

bottom plate and the top plate... I was going to weld a ring around the body of the stove and drill holes that matched it athe top/bottom and bolt it on like a boiler, mainly because I thought it would look cool and I have a supply of large stain

steel bolts.

Fun times had by all!

Xisca Nicolas

Joined: Aug 06, 2012Posts: 901Location: La Palma CanaryZone 11

Hi Clifford

Is it possible to have any idea about what it cost you ?

(of course I know it will in the end depend on what one can get for free or second hand, but just to get an idea...)

And also: how heavy is it?

Xisca - Canary - Look at pics!Dry subtropical Mediterranean - My projectHowever loud I tell it, this is never a truth, only my experience...

Clifford Gallington


Absolutely!

the weight will have to be a guess, I was going to go to an engineering website to get the specifics and weight for each p

and figure it up, but that seems to hard now that I think about it, so I am going to guess that it is around 250 pounds or

little more, I know that the legs were perfectly straight but I layed the stove over to weld on some finishing parts and wh

started to stand it up the legs had enough leverage to bend the 1/4 inch plate steel so they are not level any longer.

here is a break down for the parts and what I spent, I did keep the receipts so I had a clue as to what the damage was.

costs were involved as I did stupid things and broke some stuff and had to re do things and bought stuff to experiment w

but this somewhat finished project was around the $300 amount.

I believe it could be made cheaper and lighter but I kinda like it like this.

Things I wonder about are putting the fire box in the middle and having a shorter riser tube and leave the chimney at the

bottom, the only reason for this is so it is easier to light and not have to lean over so far.

Both of my jobs are in sales, so I tend to think that way.

Xisca Nicolas wrote:

Hi Clifford

Is it possible to have any idea about what it cost you ?

(of course I know it will in the end depend on what one can get for free or second hand, but just to get an idea...)

And also: how heavy is it?

1

7
http://www.permies.com/u/153737/Xisca-Nicolashttp://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/k607/Palma38/http://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/k607/Palma38/http://www.permies.com/t/16695/community/Presenting-Spanish-finca-ecological-projecthttp://www.permies.com/t/16695/community/Presenting-Spanish-finca-ecological-projecthttp://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/k607/Palma38/http://www.permies.com/u/153737/Xisca-Nicolas


19/23





posted Monday, December 31, 2012 5:14:19 AM

Material Quantity Price Note

6 x 6 - 1/4 sq. tube 24" $40.40 fire box

6 x4 - 3/16 rect tube 8" $13.70 outlet for stove pipe

1/4 inch plate steel 19" round $41.40 Top

1/4 inch plate steel 19" square $41.40 bottom

8" x 1 -1/4" pipe 4 $0.00 legs

4 inch pipe 24" $16.00 heat riser cut to size

4 inch pipe 8" $0.00 air intake tube

4 inch automotive exhaust tubing 7' 6" $49.91 stove pipe

18 inch steal oil well casing 24" $0.00 body of heater I had this

4 inch pipe 22" $0.00 from outlet to the chimney I had this

14 gauge steel 3 sq. ft. maybe $0.00 air doors, clean out covers front door parts made from electrical box covers I had

Fire Proof stove insulation 2' x 4' $22.10 three wraps around riser tube to insulate it

tie wire 40" $0.00 to hold insulation while I wrapped the chicken wire

chicken wire 24" x 24" $0.00 to wrap around insulation to hold it in place

toggle latches 3 $6.13 to hold ash clean out doors closed

hinges 2 $0.00 for the ash doors

stove gasket rope 10' $17.90 to seal doors

stove gasket cement 1 tube $5.50 to hold the gasket on

glass cook pan lid 1 $2.00 for the glass on the door bought from good will

1/4" copper couplings 4 $2.36 spacers to hold the glass to the door

BBQ high heat black paint 1 can $7.99 to make it look a little more decent

welding rod 1.25 pound $8.00 to stick all the pieces together

5/16" steel rod 10" $0.00 Fire box door latch

strap loop 1 $1.60 fire box door latch

bolts nuts washers a hand full $0.00 to hold hinges and latches on, also to make hinges for the fire box door

compression springs 3/8 x 5/8 2 $1.28 for the air intake flaps for resistance so they stay where I want them tolifting eyes 3/8 2 $0.00 to lift the stove if I want to

cut off wheels 5 $28.54 to cut the steel parts to fit

beer several?? $25.00 ummm?

TOTAL $331.21

well I did that in Excel and it did not come across quite as pretty as I was thinking.

if this is to hard to look at and figure out I can try again

Xisca Nicolas

Joined: Aug 06, 2012Posts: 901Location: La Palma CanaryZone 11

Thanks for all the details!

As I saw it outside (on your pics) before you put it in your garage, I thought it would have been somehow lighter to carry

Some pocket rocket (I do not mean the tiny camping ones!) are certainly lighter, and not so strong.

Clifford Gallington


yea it is hella stout for sure!

but that is how I seem to do things is some place between OVER-KILL & hella stout...i don't know why oh well thanks forinterest

Clifford Gallington


**UPDATE**

heheHA HA- do you like how I made the up date look rather important with the two stars on each side of it?

we finally had some cold weather here over the holiday and I had a piece of brass that I was wanting to shape and sooth

on a handle I was making so I started my heater up. The garage is rather large, some where around 225 to 250 square fe

and has open rafters and the 17 ft wide garage door is made of tin. It was 14 degrees F. I started the heater with some n

Xisca Nicolas wrote:

Thanks for all the details!

As I saw it outside (on your pics) before you put it in your garage, I thought it would have been somehow lighter to carry...

Some pocket rocket (I do not mean the tiny camping ones!) are certainly lighter, and not so strong.

7


20/23



posted Wednesday, January 02, 2013 3:34:34 PM

posted Saturday, February 09, 2013 6:14:43 PM

posted Saturday, February 09, 2013 8:38:36 PM

posted Tuesday, February 19, 2013 9:29:51 PM

posted Monday, April 15, 2013 12:29:37 AM

paper and some small sticks and then added some larger ones until the fire was burning good, I had to add about 5 or m

10 sticks about an inch n diameter or even a little large until the heater was really warmed up and then I added some pie

hard wood shipping pallet about 2 inches by 4 inches and about every 10 to 20 minutes would push more wood in to the

box, after about an hour it was about 40 F I put a fan above the heater in the rafters blowing the heat back down and in

30 more minutes I was about 50, and then about 55 after the two hour mark. I found that once I had ran the heater abo

hours and the temperature over the body of the stove was 400 and the top was about 600 that I had to close the air off

almost all the way and the fire seemed to quit roaring and then put out a real even heat, I think it was working like a for

when the air was wide open and to much heat was going up the chimney.

Jeremiah wales

Joined: Dec 28, 2012Posts: 96

This is interesting. I do not understand how this would work for heating a house when you go to sleep for the night. But t

Rocker Stoves and Mass Stoves have not settled well in my mind yet. I am thinking the old way. Get a big stove. Burn bi

pieces of hardwood to last all night and when you wake up in the morning you still have coals there and you can add new

for the morning. But with these rocket stoves and mass stoves. you are using tiny pieces of wood. It is Kindling in my min

How can this tuff last all night.

I usually shut down all the air intake on my present wood stove. But seems like on Rocket and Mass stoves you leave it fu

open.

I have watched all the videos, But still confused. Still watching and learning before I commit to change from my regular w

stove.

Does anyone have any comments that may get me thinking differently?

Thanks

Clifford Gallington


*** UPDATE***

If I was building this heater today I would:

use lighter weight steel for the stove body so the heat transfer would be faster

I would definitely leave the top 1/4 inch as it would warp otherwise

I would go with a riser tube that was shorter and move the fire box up so I do not need to bend over so far to put the wo

I would move the riser tube back a couple more inches in the stove body and add that length to the fire box to give a litt

longer firebox

Rion Mather


I still think it is pretty wicked, Clifford.

Clifford Gallington


One more thing that I think I would do different is to weld a steel tube around my riser tube to provide more insulation fo

combustion, I think this would make initial start up produce less smoke because it would heat up the chamber faster. As

now it will produce smoke for ten minutes or so then it clears up.

Clifford Gallington


here are a couple of videos before I moved it inside the shop last fall

1

1
http://www.permies.com/u/156772/Jeremiah-waleshttp://www.permies.com/u/156772/Jeremiah-wales


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posted Tuesday, April 16, 2013 6:55:29 AM

posted Thursday, January 09, 2014 5:43:13 PM

Rion Mather


So how is the stove holding up? How is the cooking going?

Lyle Miller

Joined: Dec 27, 2013

Posts: 2

Mine looks very similar I used 4" exhaust pipe and 8" stove pipe for the outside. On the inside, I brazed coffee cans toge

and packed a clay sand mix in-between the 4" and coffee cans

image.jpg

1
http://www.permies.com/u/165707/Lyle-Millerhttp://www.permies.com/u/165707/Lyle-Miller


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subject: my homemade wood stove

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