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Staying in the black through green production

Incorporating Clariants Advanced Denim dyeing process into KARL MAYERsIndig-O-Matic system the perfect collaboration in terms of efciency,exibility and eco-friendliness

Inuenced and invigorated by the global economic crisis,from 2011 onwards, the denim market will prove to be mul-tifaceted, innovative and in a state of change. A clear trend

reversal can be seen as far as these indigo-blue fabrics are con-cerned, which is away from traditional, mass-produced goods,the so-called basics, and towards high-fashion womens andmens wear.

This new diversity in jeans couture is making increasing de-mands on the quality, exibility and cost effectiveness of produc-tion. In order to meet these growing performance requirements,the process designers, working in conjunction with the ma-chine developers, are increasingly integrating the functions and

operations involved in the processing sequences of spinning direct beaming/warping/assembling sizing/dyeing into theweaving preparatory operations. This strategy has also helpedthe machine manufacturer, KARL MAYER, together with theproducts and processing techniques developed by the chemi-cals company, Clariant, to gain expertise on a global level.These two companies have combined their special knowledge

of denim and, in so doing, have concentrated on integratingthe conventional ring dyeing process.Conventional indigo dyeing, which is limited to a maximum of6 % dye xing whilst taking into consideration adequate wash-fastness, is more important than ever nowadays. Clariant has

May/2011

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Fig. 4: KARL MAYERs indigo sizing machine and theassociated chemicals from Clariant

system reduces the length of the air passage by more than30 % and works according to the cross ow principle a meth-od which involves blowing air intensively at a constant tem-perature into the reaction zone. The result is a concentrated andcompletely uniform indigo oxidation, which improves xing ofthe indigo pigment onto the yarn.

the eco wash trough, which operates with roughly 10 15 %less wash water than similar systems.

the KAMCOS control system, which accurately displays andoptimally adjusts the elongation and tension values in everyzone and for every processing stage in the machine. The cus-tomer can quickly spot any faults and weak places in theprocessing chain and deal with them efciently.

a completely automated chemicals kitchen and a measuringsystem for the indigo dyeing process.

All the process components and machines made by KARL MAYERoperate extremely accurately and in perfect harmony with eachother the result of technical perfection! The material is fed ac-curately, reliably and compactly through the modules, and thestate-of-the art technical features guarantee optimum results.These include high-resolution, high-precision yarn tension meas-uring devices, yarn guides with conically tapered sides, guiderollers having a special grooved design, and a lifting roller sys-tem for equalising different yarn consumption values.The yarns are handled gently by means of an accurate, continu-ous yarn guide control system, and the shortest possible, iden-tical residual running lengths are guaranteed at the end of eachbatch. Warp beams having uniform working widths and ho-mogeneous yarn volumes are produced extremely efciently.KARL MAYERs production equipment also offers a high levelof reproducibility and machine availability, and these perform-ance features guarantee an exceptionally high level of efciencywhen producing denim.

The Pad/Sizing-Ox system uses minimum resources formaximum resultsClariants Pad/Sizing-Ox system is a revolutionary denim proc-ess, in which the yarn can be dyed extremely efcientlyand in an eco-friendly way in a sizing machine. This process isknown as the Advanced Denim process and is based on a com-bination of DiresulRDT liquid sulphur dyes and the new sizingauxiliary, ArkolDEN-FIX p. The use of Diresul RDT creates

unique effects and produces a high colourfastness, accurate re-sults and very good reproducibility of tones and shades whenused in KARL MAYERs efcient VARIO DOUBLE dyeing system,for example.Shade defects can be corrected easily and adjusted and stabi-lised very quickly. The colour can also be changed quickly andeasily. New and interesting colours can be produced as well asdeep blue, attractive grey shades and black, nely graded

The sizing/oxidation recipe: 6 8 % ArkolDEN-FIX p

0,2 % Trex

MSW a 2 3 % DiresulOxidant BRI liqSetting the pH with OpticidPSD liq to a value of

4.5 5 Temperature of the size bath, 85 90 CMoisture content after the size trough, 100 115 %.

The dyeing recipe: x g/l DiresulRDT liq (only for DiresulRDT liq)

7 10 g/l reducing agent D p 7 10 g/l Na OH 50 % 2 5 g/l LeonilEH liq

2 3 g/l Ladiquest2005 liq Addition of the processing agents at 70 95 C

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News Letter

shaded effects and special washed-out effects. The startingmaterial for this is the raw yarn, which is supplied in the formof ropes or warps.The Pad/Sizing-Ox also offers advantages when sizing usingKARL MAYER machine technology (Fig. 4). These include goodadhesion, a high water solubility, resistance to alkalis and highatmospheric humidity, an excellent size lm and a high levelof efciency during subsequent processing on high-speedlooms. The Pad/Sizing-Ox process also offers advantages forthe environment, since the consumption of resources is great-ly reduced throughout the entire process. At a batch load of10,000 m of blue denim and an operating speed of 20 m/min,

the Indig-O-Matic can save 92 % of water compared to theslasher machine. Nor is any of this precious liquid used duringdyeing. Furthermore, energy consumption is reduced by 30 %and cotton waste by 87 %. Virtually no efuent is produced. ThePad/Sizing-Ox can also produce washed-out effects withoutdamaging the environment. The process operates using ozoneor peroxide and consequently does not produce any harmfulemissions containing hypochlorite or permanganate. All in all,the Pad/Sizing-Ox and Indig-O-Matic are two partners who aresetting the trend in the textile sector a partnership for whomthe chemistry is just right.