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Abstract
Pre-production is the area where all the sampling, testing and sourcing is done. Studies
show that Pre-production stage itself takes almost 60% time of the total order. The costinvolved in the stages of Pre-Production is almost three times that of the bulk production.
The product development stage involves the trend research anticipating through the ideas
of development of prototypes, setting the base range for the product. It also comprises of
the fabric selection from fabric fairs and assortment of newly developed fabrics from the
supplier.
This project deals with three key areas of pre production i.e. fabric management, the
delays that occur at the pre production stage and lead time in the stages of Pre-
Production. The data taken here covers 15 different styles at the pre production stage andone style at the production stage. The lead time for the production depends critically on
the time taken for sourcing of raw materials, mainly fabric. The lead time varies as and
when there are delays in the TNA. Most of the times, there are delays in the TNA due to
late delivery of fabric to the involved factory. The planned lead time is the pre advised
time proposed by the merchandiser in the TNA whereas the actual lead time is the
extension of dates which occur in the TNA after delays happening in the development of
the style.
The delays at this stage are the extensions which merchants ask the buyer to give beyond
the planned schedule.
To save this time and to meet the required in store dates for the season, the best thing to
be done is to manage the pre production activities in a better way. Reducing the non-
value added activities will reduce the delays thus making the entire supply chain more
efficient and agile. Instructing the vendors correctly and organising a vendor assurance
study before giving the order to any vendor would be beneficial. Also, the vendors here
have to understand their responsibilities and their part in meeting the timely delivery.
While in the production stage, operator training would be the best method so as to
improve the efficiency and quality which the manufacturing industry of today strives for
the most. Also, presence of an Industrial engineer is very important for the correctplanning and implementation at the time of bulk production.
These measures, if followed meticulously, would surely help meeting the deadlines
placed by the buyer, thus making our stores ready for the season on time.
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Certificate
This is to certify thatthis Project Report titled FABRICMANAGEMENT, THEIR DELAYS AND LEAD TIME ANALYSIS" is basedon my original research work, conducted under the guidance of Dr.D.Samuel Wesley and Mr. T. Murugan towards partialfulfillment of therequirement for award of the Bachelors Degree in FashionTechnology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of FashionTechnology, Chennai.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material,
wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.
Signature of Author/Researchers
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to my guide Dr.
D. Samuel Wesley and Mr. T.Murugan for their exemplary guidance, monitoring and
constant encouragement throughout the course of this thesis. The blessing, help and
guidance given by them time to time shall carry me a long way in the journey of life on
which I am about to embark.
I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to my Company Mentor
Mr. Anurag Oberoi (Team leader Ann Taylor LOFT Casual bottoms and Ann Taylor
Dress, Triburg, for his cordial support, valuable information and guidance, which helped
me in completing this task through various stages.
I am obliged to staff members of Triburg for the valuable information provided by themin their respective fields. I am grateful for their cooperation during the period of my
assignment.
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CONTENTS
Sl. No. Description Page no.
Acknowledgement
Chapter 1
Introduction 8
Background 10
Objective 9
Scope of study 10
Expected benefits 10
Company profile 11
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Sl. No. Description Page no.
Chapter 2
Research methodology 13
Research process 13
Chapter 3
Product development 23
Chapter 4
Delay analysis 35
Chapter 5
Lead time analysis 47
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Sl. No. Description Page no.
Chapter 6
Conclusions 68
Developing action plan 70
Limitations & future prospect of project 71
Annexure 72
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Chapter 1: An Introduction
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OBJECTIVES:
Primary Objectives:
1. To find out reasons for delay at pre-production stage.
2. Understanding the work culture of different departments.
3. Providing probable solutions to the delays.
4. To find the difference between the actual lead time and theAnd the planned lead time.
5. To reduce lead time of operations by combining different operations.
Secondary Objectives:
1. Understanding the concept & dynamics of delay in Pre-production.
2. To understand the various aspects in Apparel manufacturing which cause delays in pre-production activities.
Research topic: Fabric management, their delays and lead time analysis
Research Problem: A study on causes for delays in pre-production activities of
garment manufacturing.
Research objectives:
To analyse the extent of delays To determine the extent of pre production delays To identify potential areas causing frequent delays To determine factors those can be controllable To determine if there is some difference in the actual and planned lead time.
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BACKGROUND:
Evolving consumer preferences whose awareness level of trends, fashion consciousness,
disposable income and consumerism is at all time high. This much consumer awareness
wants different merchandise at even shorter intervals complimented with greater
shopping experience, which is inducing product lifecycles to shrink dramatically.
Pre-production delays are the extension of days beyond standard and planned schedule
for the activities starting from order enquiry to all approvals required for bulk production.
These delays increases the lead time even more than the standard one and hence to
survive in the global competitiveness is more difficult for the global manufacturers.
NEED FOR THE STUDY:
Pre production networks are unique for every single enterprise, every single buyer and
even for every single order. In case of absence of standardized process network,
preproduction activities are highly prone to delays in the process.
SCOPE OF THE STUDY :
It will help us to get a view of process flow of production at pre-production.
Make company proactive in approach to forsee kind of delivery schedule and get insight
of delays. Establish framework for the set of activities required for excluding the delay
element.
EXPECTED BENEFITS:
Reduce delays in shipment
Reduction in lead-time (if possible)
LOCATION: TRIBURG , Udhyog vihar sector 20, Gurgaon
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Company Profile: (An introduction)
Triburg is the Largest Apparel Sourcing company in South Asia with offices in 5countries. It supplies US $500 Million in merchandise for global customers (American
Eagle, Armani Exchange, DKNY, Ann Taylor etc.)Product mix ranges from Apparel toHome Furnishings.
Triburg is the number one buying office in the Indian subcontinent with years ofexperience in the Indian sub-continent with over 29 years of experience in the sourcingbusiness. Triburg is the only company in india with expertise in providing a completeproduct range in textile apparel, leather apparel, shoes , bags and home productsincluding soft lines and hard lines.
In 1979, two young technocrats decided to give a new meaning to apparel sourcing insouth asia, they targeted their entrepreneurial drive at becoming a market leading
enterprise. With their hands on approach, a personal commitment to responsibility,meeting customer needs proactively and delivering world-class quality on time, thatvision became a reality. They grew from strength to strength, picking and training theirgrowing team with the same basic values. Their motto is the mission statement which isepitomized in all their 3 regional offices(Dubai, Srilanka and india) and their 22 branchand liaison offices spread over Asia and the United States.
Delays:
Delay means retarding detention and postponement of set of event and activities and toput off them to future time.It is unplanned deferment of a scheduled activity because of something or occurrence thatimpede its commencement or continuation. It has time associated cost effects on a contactwhich may be measured in term of time money or a combination thereof. As far asapparel industry is concerned Deviation from quoted lead is referred to as detentionDelays occur due to several reasons and these can occur at various stages of product andhence broadlyMain causes for the delay can be classified as:-
1) Technical Problem
2) Employee related Problem3) System related Problem
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1) Technical Problem :These problems are incurred due to some problem in making out the use of technology
effectively and efficiently. Poor utilization of capacities also lead to delay as it would
result to piling up of work which would stand pending until the earlier loads are
completed.
2) Employee related Problem :The garmenting activities are primarily people driven functions and employee play a very
important role. There are several reasons under this category also some of them are
miscommunication, wrong interpretation of the information and work get affected as all
activities are interdependent on each other.
3) System related Problem :This is mainly related to the process activities and the way entire system works. This
includes the time taken in documentation, inter-departmental communication, the release
of orders, flow of work, processes followed. The system is unique to every company and
it is way the various functions are executed. And developing a system to work is very
difficult.
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Methodology
Step I: Define the problem and the research objectives
Research problem: A study on causes for delays in pre production activities and fabric
management before the fabric ex mill date.
Research objectives:
1. To analyze the extent of delays in executing the orders.
2. To determine the extent of pre-production delays in overall delays.
3. To determine the potential areas causing frequent delays.
4. To determine factors those can be controllable, to avoid delays.
Step II: Develop the research plan:
Designing a research plan calls for decisions on data sources, choice of research design,research approaches, research instruments, sampling plan and contact methods.
Data Sources:In this research, both secondary as well as primary data will be used.Also help is taken from Internet, magazines and newspapers that helps in getting latestinformation about the happenings in this sector.The Secondary data also includes Process flow charts, process parameters, andprocedures. The primary data consists of survey of various people involved in relatedactivities and Queries from company employees to understand the process better.
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Research Design:
Research design is the plan, structure and strategy of investigation conceived so as toobtain answers to research questions and to control variance. A research design specifiesthe methods and procedures for constructing a particular study.In this research, the design is Descriptive research.
Descriptive research:
It can be defined as fact finding with adequate interpretations. Fact finding would involvejust data gathering. In descriptive research more is involved in the form of reflectivethinking. Reflective thinking relates the facts gathered to the objectives and theassumptions of the study. It involves observing things with out influencing them.The Descriptive research focuses on the factors, which help to understand the various
causes for delays in related activities.
Step III: Collect the information :
Information collection from the various people involved in production over a period of
time is a major task for me in carrying out my research work. On the basis of the proper
existing systems assigned for each activity in the organisation there was freedom for
collecting data directly or interviewing concerned persons.
Step IV: Analyze the information
The data had been segregated manually and the analysis work has been done with thehelp of MS.Excel. The data on Orders which primarily got delayed in Pre-productionstage have been analyzed on the basis of the following parameters:
Sample submissions Quality problems Lab dips
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LITERATURE REVIEW:
The sourcing decision does not merely depend on the cost of manufacturing andshipping. Additional cost implications of lead-time, inventory, supplier performance,and customer service level are also to be considered. These parameters are furtherreflected in the inflexibility costs of using suppliers that are inflexible an unresponsiveto changes in demand (before, during and after a product selling season) that lead to adisproportionate level of demand amplification across a longer supply network and anumber of considerable cost implications. In other words retailers that are unable torespond to sudden market changes will experience vast losses in terms of finalmarkdowns and missed sales opportunities.[1]
Trims and fabric can cause problems for both designers and manufacturers if designersplan their production badly and misjudge the lead times for delivery of fabric and allother components (buttons, zips, labels etc.) When placing an order, time also needs tobe factored in for additional processes such as sending patterns out for grading.
Incomplete or poorly timed delivery of components to factories can cause a lot ofproduction problems. Designers sometimes assume that because factories have thefabric and patterns, they will be able to start work, but factories will not usually startwork until all of the components have been delivered. Trims often have just as longorder lead times as fabrics, which many designers who are just starting out don't seemto be aware of. Sometimes, what seems like the smallest part of the garment - forexample the sizing or composition label - can delay the finishing of a garment byweeks.[2]
In satisfying the need for effective service performance the manufacturer must ensurethat the correct customer order quantity is produced and supplied to the requiredquality and at the agreed delivery date through the supply chain. By paying attention toall sources of waste for both innovative and functional products the enterprise willwork towards meeting or exceeding the customers expectations. However, the
objective of efficiency of the manufacturing facility is derived from a productionorientation of an enterprise where its core focus is geared to internal productionperformance measures of manufacturing product at a rate greater than the norm. Thecompletion of specific customers requirements for order quantity is of a secondary
importance. The objective of effectiveness however is derived from a customeroriented manufacturing enterprise where the prime objective is to service the customerorder requirements explicitly. This potential conflict of interest from satisfying the
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operating units demands and the customers expectations needs to be reconciled bythe short term shop floor planning and control system.[3]
For any designer in todays world, a key to success is having access to a reliable and
professional manufacturer or production unit. But many young or new designers are
struggling to find manufacturers who have the skills and facilities to make their
product. The high-end designer fashion industry (which includes both designers andmanufacturers), is small and specialist. As a result, information tends to be
shared in a very informal way, often by word-of-mouth. In fact, some designers are
reluctant to share their 'good' manufacturers for fear that it might affect their own
production. This means that it can be
hard to get the right names and contacts for manufacturers unless you are already
established. Designers are often forced to draw upon
their own informal networks as there is no reliable source of information.
Part of the problem is that manufacturers don't generally devote time to marketing
themselves, due to lack of time, low levels of IT skills and a lack of available finance.
Together, these factors make it difficult for emerging designers to find manufacturers,
except through referrals.[4]
All the business activities should try to operate efficiently. However, this is
particularly important for a growing business. In any market, a business needs to be atleast as efficient as its main competitors in order to be able to compete and survive inthe long-term. A more efficient business will produce lower cost goods thancompetitors and may generate more profit possibly at lower prices Increasingefficiency will also boost the capacity of a business, assuming there is no change in thenumber of inputs employed. The capacity of a firm refers to how much a business canproduce during a specific period of time.[5]
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ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN PRE-PRODUCTION
Today's garment merchandisers have to move with frequent changes in demand and thedeveloping technologies utilized in manufacturing and production. To find out customer
requirements, they regularly visit retail outlets, and come up with latest updates from
frontline staff. In order to keep an eye on developments in sourcing, site visits are made
every week to mainland factories to meet suppliers and study production. In garment
merchandising, there is no specific rule, so its important to be able to think on one's feet.
The main procedures of merchandisers are as followed:
1)Understanding Sample Order
Merchandiser has to understand the buyers requirementsafter receiving specification in
the sample order. In many cases, there are modifications pertaining to the specifications
in the order to dispatch on time and the right quality. He has to talk with the in-house
veterans on the execution problems of sample orders, as the right information is required
in decision making.
2)Managing order route card and production timetable
Merchandiser has to manage every single production schedule and order route card that
helps to follow-up the execution in the planned way. It is expected to be acknowledged of
the various descriptions like: design, no. of modules, no. of operators, how many
processes, and date of dispatch, quantity, output capacity, and deadlines in the schedules.
The sub-ordinates are normally assigned to follow-up with execution of the plan.
Merchandiser plans the activities depending on the essentials or non-essentials, and top
priority are given to the most essential tasks. This is customary that the essential activities
are handled personally or with the support of junior merchandisers/sub-ordinates. In a
daily schedule, merchandiser has to carry-out and categorize which is the most significant
and urgent task. The activity that has to be focused with full attention to sweep-off non-
essential activities and have to be to be corrected by prioritizing to meet the deadlines.
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6)Communicating with associated people and buyer
It is essential to communicate with the buyers regarding the order. It is expected to give
some time to the buyer to read the sent messages. Merchandiser should go through the
messages received from the buyer and reply on time. In many cases, merchandisers have
to provide order status to the buyers. Also, merchandiser has to communicate with the
people that are in-house, vendors, contractors and job-workers.
Only through the right communication can one meet deadline for the concerned orders.
Apart from the above mention procedures, merchandiser has to assign subordinates to
help him in the order execution, and direct the procedures. He has to revise his knowledge
from time-to-time to know current market trends. To record preferences for all the
planned activities, use daily or time log systems. The Merchandiser should find out exactreasons for time consumption. It is necessary to keep record of time value and keeping it
safe, as it is going to be shared with concerned parties/buyers. It is certain that
merchandising jobs need huge time planning.
In Apparel sector there are 2 types of Merchandise, One is Woven merchandise ( Such as
Shirt , Pant , Blouse etc ) & the other one is Knit merchandise ( Circular Knit :- Tee shirt ,
Polo shirt ,Fashion knit like Sweater Etc ) . For quoting a price, merchandiser must
calculate fabric consumption first, because fabric price cover more than 60 % of that
quoted Price.
As a Merchandiser, for any type of Garments Consumption calculation, first we have to
know what type of garments we are going to make. For that, we need to know the specific
parts name & the measurement of that particular garments parts. Measurement may be in
inch or in centimeter (Measurement in Inch for American order & Centimeter for
European order). For accurate measurement we need to make a Paper pattern or CAD
pattern first.
We all know every part of garments have its length & width measurement. Basically on
woven garments, we calculate the consumption in Yard/ Doz (2.54 Cm= 1 inch & 36 inch
= 1 Yds,). In that case we also need to know the Width of that particular fabric which we
are going to use. Now we will calculate each of the separate part based on this Length &
Width to have the total consumption, for this we can use Separate part formula as
below:-
(LENGTH X WIDTH) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width (suitable sewing
allowance with each length & width for each application is also to be considered).
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After calculating the consumption of all the part this way, we have to add all that
separate parts consumption tighter ,then we add the wastage percentage based on the
fabric nature which we are going to use for that particular garments.
We can also workout the consumption of a bottom item by using the below Solid
formula for calculate consumption"
Solid formula for calculate required Fabric consumption / Doz :-
(Total LENGTH X Total WIDTH ) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width X36inch = (Total + 5 % Wastage) X 12 Pcs= Result in ..Yds / Doz .
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Fabric/ trims management : TNA
+
+
IN STORE
DISTRIBUTION
CENTRE DC
(AC )AT
CONSOLIDATOR
(SEA OR AIR)
GARMENT BULK
X - FACTORY
PACKING FINISH
PACKING START
SEWING ENDS
FINISHING ENDS
FINISHING STARTS
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CUTTING ENDS
CUTTINGSTARTS
FABRIC TRIMS
INHOUSE
FABRIC TRIMS
X- MILL
MILL STARTSDYEING FABRIC
FABRIC GREIGE
GO AHEAD
PROTO
SAMPLE
LAB DIPAPPROVALS
FIT APPROVAL
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Chapter 2: Product development
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Content of consecution of entire apparel PD to production and teams
involved
Event Clustered acts/Chief
actors
Brief act illustrations
Trend research Setting the base forPD process throughtrend research/ Trendresearcher
-Collection of trendinformation through idea tripand shopping frominternational market, shoppingfrom local market, fashion
publication , websites andfabric fairs.-Analysis of collected trendforecasts.-Setting seasonal theme andpreliminary planning forproduct range
Productdevelopment
Anticipation throughtesting ideas anddevelopingprototypes/
Product developers(Designer , productmanager, patternmaker, finishingexpert)
-Anticipation of product rangeand setting the base range.-Fabric selection developedfabrics from the suppliers.
based on the idea collectedfrom fabric fairs andassortment of newly developedfabrics from the suppliers.Pattern selection from thepattern bank and developmentof new pattern. Test for fabricshrinkage and effect on theproduct.- Select product colour, shade,detailing like embroidery,
labels, stitching and otherdetails.- Development 1st proto andcorrective 2nd or 3rd proto asper necessity. Salesmansamples
Actual productrange
Setting the productrange/Sales team
-Confirm the final productrange and development of
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(product manager,sales representative)
salesman samples.-Sales meeting along with theproduct range catalogue andproduct price.-Sales forecasting andpotentiality of sales.-Transfer product developmentknowledge to the productionteam and check formanufacturability.
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Fabric development:
Pd cycle 1
Suppliers responsibility during product development:
Fabric suppliers responsibilities during product development: Accept charges for sample yardage as part of the cost of doing business. Assume liability for failed garment test attributed to fabric problems. Assume liability for latent fabric defects. Review fabrication alternatives and pricing with Sourcing. After fabric and order commitment dates have been determined, confirm in
writing: price, sample yardage ship date and bulk ship date to Sourcing.
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Confirm receipt of lab dips, strike-offs, handlooms and sample yardage requestsvia email to Sourcing within 24 hours of receipt.
Produce sample yardage and ship to specified location (Overseas Office/ garmentmanufacturer). If sample yardage will be late, the fabric supplier must notify theappropriate Sourcing Manager immediately in writing.
The delivery of lab dips is expected in 7-10 days, and sample yardage in 2-4weeks.
The Quality Approval Swatch is then passed on to the Sourcing Manager. The R&D testing of fabric is requested. The Fabric Merchandiser forwards the
testing report to the fabric supplier.
The fabric supplier also provides proposed care instructions.
Fabric trend process:
Fabric Director works with Trend Services in November for Spring and May forFall.
Fabric Director meets with Trend Directors to ensure alignment. Color/Fabric/Trend Directors: Initial Concept meeting to present early trend
direction to Design Directors and Product Development Teams.
Color/Fabric/Trend work sessions with each brand. Fabric Director gathers market intelligence from fabric suppliers. Fabric Director conducts video conference to convey trend direction to Fabric
Merchandisers and fabric suppliers .
Fabric Director meets with Sourcing to review development fabrics and countriesthat will be used to develop.
Fabric Director: Attend trade shows (sample any new directional fabric ideas);also travel Europe for fashion during Premiere Vision.
Fabric development process:
Color palette is finalised Develop Fabric Menu. Designers select qualities to be sampled and prepare Product Packages to be given
to Sourcing.
Sourcing: Begins sending original fabrics for development to overseasoffices/fabric suppliers.
Handloom/Sample Yardage is requested.
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Fashion Fabric Fair or Mill Week Sourcing will negotiate fabric price and nominate the garment manufacturer. Garment manufacturer will contact fabric supplier.
Mill evaluation:
A mill evaluation may be required. The request for evaluation will be made at thediscretion of buyer. The mill will be informed. If required, the evaluation will beconducted by the Sourcing / Quality department. This evaluation will review all aspectsof the mills ability to consistently produce high quality product based on formalized
quality programs.The mill evaluation includes the following:
1. Yarn Manufacturing
If the mill is vertical and produces yarn, a critical review of all quality programs toproduce a consistent yarn is conducted. Key areas of evaluation include testing of rawmaterials, blending and spinning. Color control should be completed at this time to verifyyarn properties.
2. Purchased Yarn
Does the mill check size and consistency of every shipment of yarn? Is uniformitychecked? Are waxes or lubricants controlled?
3. Knitting / Weaving
Review of all procedures to ensure accuracy of the fabric being produced
4. Greige goods inspection
Review of procedures to ensure accuracy of statistical controls, point systems and
proper records.
5. Dyeing / Finishing
It involves a thorough review of dyeing techniques, methods and procedural controls ofthe dyeing department. Written procedures and records are reviewed along with colorcontrols such as spectrophotometers, proper lighting and operator color vision testing.
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6. Final Inspection
Review of the mills ability to ship consistently high quality piece goods and maintainrecords to be used for continuous improvement.
7. Lab Testing of Finished Goods
Review of all lab tests and procedures as outlined in the Lab Certification program listedin this manual. Recommendations are given to the management of the mill for correctiveaction. A mill may request a re-evaluation by providing an action plan to the Evaluatorwhichdescribes the improvements to be made and gives dates/timetable for improvements.
Identification of fabric defect:
Often Inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments. Theultimate solution, of course, is to provide actual examples or photographs of both majorand minor defects. This section provides a list of defects and explanations and simplifiesthe language and the judgments used in making visual fabric evaluations. The QualityControl Manager can provide this list to inspectors as a practical tool for achievinguniform inspection decisions.
Major and minor defects:
Major defects: A defect if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item tobe a second.
Minor defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be tremed a second eitherbecause of severity or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting it isnecessary to rate questionable defects as major since the inspector wont know where thedefect would occur on them.
Woven fabric defects:
Burl mark: When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, It is removed byburling tool. This will usually leave an open place in the fabric.
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Warp slub as observed in #307049(color :latte) R.no-30162
Knot as observed in #307049(color :latte) R.no-30162
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Crease mark as observed in #307049 (color: incense khaki)
Smash: caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.
Soiling filling or end: Dirty , oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or onpackagedyed yarn.
Spot mark: When the loom is stopped , the yarn elongates under tension ; Whenloom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.
Color evaluation procedure :
Solid Bulk Lab Dip Request
All Ann Taylor Solid Lab Dips are requested by an Ann Taylor representative. Eachrequest is processed on an Ann Taylor Bulk Lab Dip request form. This form contains allthe pertinent information needed by the Supplier in order to process the request.The following information must be included on each request form: Ann Taylor Requestor Ann Taylor Contact Fabric/Yarn quality
Season Division/Department Final approval date Color name Ann Taylor 4 digit color number 3 x 3 for all request made from a corporate standard
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Solid Bulk Lab Dip Submittal
All Suppliers are required to follow the procedures when submitting bulk lab dips forAnn Taylor. All lab dips are to be attached to the Ann Taylor Lab Dip Submit form . Allof the information provided on the Ann Taylor Request form must be included on theAnn Taylor Lab Dip Submit form in addition to the following:
Supplier contact Supplier submit date Supplier lab dip number
All bulk lab dips are to be submitted as follows:
One color per submission No more than three variations of each color per submission
The lab dip submits should be prescreened by the mill All swatches must be a minimum of 2 x 2 in size. Ann Taylor has Colorists in certain overseas offices to prescreen all submits
before sending them to the Ann Taylor Home Office in New York for finalapproval by the NY Colorist.
Viewing Conditions and Procedures
All lab dips must be reviewed in a MacBeth light box & Procedures). Ann Taylor requires all of its light boxes to be calibrated by a certified MacBeth
engineer once a year.
Garment wash approval process:
This process encompasses denim, non denim and pigment programs. Directsuppliers/mills submit submission to appropriate triburg buying office merchandiser ,
who passes on the submission to the designer or product development manager . The
designer provides any standard and instruction on what needs to be achieved to establish
the wash standard. The adopted quality swatch is submitted for hand feel and general
appearance approval ; suppliers must submit before wash and after wash swatches for
comparison purposes. Washing details must be specified by the supplier.
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Denim programs require to submit a light , medium and dark swatch for approval to
represent the range of shade band of the production. All production must fall within this
approved band.
Non denim and pigment programs require the supplier to submit lab dips before wash and
after wash. Lab dips should be washed in the same condition as the future production.The solid color approval form and lab dips are to be used , indicating clearly that it is a
garment wash program in the product description field of the approval form. Lab dips will
be submitted to the appropriate buying house merchandiser who can pass the lab dips on
the appropriate color team to match to the indicated standard.
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Chapter 3 : Delay analysis
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Delay analysis:
Reason of
delay
Factors responsible Suggested measure Example
Lab dip Not matching thedesired shade;Communicationlapses
Proper suppliertraining
Unmatched labdips as per thegiven instructions(flare occurrence)
Approvaldelays
Rejections,Incomplete &improper submission
Usage of correctcomposition offabric and colors
Rejection ofsample yardageor bulk
Quality
problems
Priorities for
selected suppliers
Nip impression of
padding mangle isto be checked
Gsm variation,
Seam puckering,csv
Changes inspecification
Fit sample approvedwith remarks
Changes should bebrought in Preproduction sample
Revision intechpacks
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Fish bone diagram:
1) Lab dips
sl. No. reasonno. ofcases
as apercentage
1 man 6 100
2 machine 3 50
3 material 2 33.33
4 method 1 16.66
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
man machine material method
Series1
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These delays result from problems related to the prints and colors not matching the specified
standards and merchandise not getting the desired hand feel.
Print and color related problems: - These problems arise when the supplier is not able to achieve
specified prints and colors. The supplier gets the Lap dips and strike offs approved but are
somehow unable to get the same quality in bulk.
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2) Approval delays:
sl.No. reason
no. ofcases
as apercentage
1 man 3 27.27
2 machine 4 36.363 method 2 18.18
4 material 2 18.18
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
man machine method material
Series1
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The second biggest problem which is not allowing the various departments to plan and perform
according to their capacities is the problem of approvals i.e. at various stages the departments
especially embroidery, printing, knitting and dyeing have to wait for the various approvals.
Although there is no permanent solution to this problem we can only work to minimize the loss
due to this problem.
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If the pickup after the Padding mangle is not same throughout the width of the fabric then thedifference in depth within the width of the fabric is observed. Due to which centre to selvedgevariation is observed. The ways to keep a check on csv is to see that the pick up % in left, middle& right position of the fabric after the padding mangle and the nip impression of the paddingmangle is to be checked periodically.
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4) Changes in specification:
sl.no. reasonno. ofcases
as apercentage
1 man 2 28.57
2 machine 0 0
3 method 3 42.85
4 material 2 28.57
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
man machine method material
Series1
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It was found that primarily there was change in specifications because there was no standardsbeing set up for the fit and specification of even basic styles like Ann taylor loft casual bottoms
and tops.
There are times when the merchandisers sent the sample on old specification instead of getting
new specifications and hence again resubmission happens. Sometimes changed specification are
not being sent and only comments are sent by the merchandisers and hence they are unable to
understand and develop sample according to new specification. So again in this condition
resubmission of sample is required is required.
These specification changes are the major contributor to the delay in pre-production of particularstyle example location of logos and pocket positions etc.
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Root Cause Identification
In each of the areas below, indicate any factors that contributed to the delay in treatment:
Contributing
Factors
If YES, what contributed to
this factor being an issue?
Is this a
root cause
of the
event?
If YES, is
an action
plan
indicated?
YES NO YES NO YES NO
Shade not matching
Poor Supplier training for
building lab dips
Inappropriate
submissions.
Flare occurence
Priorities for
selected suppliers
Fabric pickup is not same after
padding mangle
(color distribution is not same)
Fit sample approved
with remarks
Minor changes to be brought in
later sampling stages
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Chapter 4: Lead Time Analysis
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Lead Time Analysis:
Lead time and timely deliveries
Meeting the delivery on time is the most important factor in today market to have good
reputation and existence with good market share in this competitive world. To keep abreast
with the dynamic market conditions these days one need to be able to get more of the
fastest selling merchandise on sale during season whilst its appeal lasts and
correspondingly eliminate lines which are not popular and become drain on resources. The
main areas of concern are
Merchandise development Communication System compatibility Long delivery time
Export market is such where there is lot of innovation in styles and particularly fashion
market which very dynamic and shorter run of production are increasing day by day.
What make situation more difficult is the interdependence of the activities and it is not at
all surprising that the time taken to get goods from concept to market place is often
longer than the selling season itself.
The maximum amount of time spend is in preproduction activities.
These activities include the process of procuring yarn and fabric, getting the samples
made and getting them approved by the buyers. The actual garmenting process does not
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Durations in production and pre production
sl.no Style number total leadtime
pre productionduration(1)
productionduaration(2)
% time in preproduction
1 307982-sum 130 76 54 58.5
2 303123-spr 174 102 72 58.623 297032-spr 129 87 42 67.44
4 301693-spr 162 91 71 56.17
5 298509-spr 174 102 72 58.72
6 313876-fall 148 79 69 53.37
7 308947-fall 92 57 35 61.95
8 307068-fall 114 58 56 50.87
9 303123-fall 140 100 40 71.42
10 311698-prefall
90 37 53 41.11
11 314628-hol 151 101 50 66.88
12 307753-fall 119 74 45 62.18
13 307756-fall 140 95 45 67.85
14 314239-fall 162 117 45 72.22
15 308220-fall 111 66 45 59.45
Average 82.8 52.93 60.45
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61%
39%
percentage time spent in 1 & 2
1
2
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Series2
Series1
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Planned vs Actual lead time
sl No. style no. Actual lead time
Planned lead
time Difference
13079282-sum 153 130 23
2 303123-spr 174 150 24
3 297032-spr 129 119 10
4 301693-spr 162 151 11
5 298509-spr 174 165 9
6 313876-fall 148 136 12
7 308947-fall 109 92 17
8 307068-fall 100 114 149 303123-fall 140 125 15
10311698-
prefall 90 90 0
11 314628-hol 151 146 5
12 307753-fall 150 119 31
13 307756-fall 118 140 22
14 314239-fall 162 156 6
15 308220-fall 109 111 2
137.9333333 129.6 201
Interpretation: As it can be seen that mean actual lead time is higher than mean planned lead
time, so it can be said that there is significant difference between the planned and the actual
lead time.
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Series1
Series2
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Reducing lead time in the production stage of style # 307753
Operation bulletin of style #307753
sl. No. Operation Machine Sam Remarks
CUTTING SECTION
1 Block cutting Straight knife
2 Fusing at Fusing m/c
3 Fusing panel recut Band knife
4 Fix cutting rest all panel Straight knife
5 Notch should be as per the pattern Table
6 Cutting check as per pattern Table
7 Issue cutting Table
SEWING SECTION
NECK FACING
1 Side seam of neck facing A 0.6 COMBINE 1 , 3
2 Side joint neck facing C 0.48 COMBINE 2 , 7
3 Serge neck facing A 0.58 COMBINE 1 , 3
4 Hem neck facing C 0.82 COMBINE 4 , 5 , 9
5 Mark the neck facing 0.62
SLEEVE
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6 Join the sides of sleeve C 0.52
7 o/l sides of sleeve A 0.38 COMBINE 2 , 7
8 Serge the sleeve open A 0.88
9 Press the sleeve open for blind hem 0.88 COMBINE 4 , 5 , 9
10 Hem at sleeve opening B 1.38
UPPER BODY
11 Mark the front for lace attatch 0.62
12 Attatch lace at front body C 0.62 SHARE 12 , 15
13 Finish lace attatch at front body C 0.68
14 Attatch the front yoke to upper body C 0.72 COMBINE 14 , 17
15 O/l the front yoke joint A 0.62 SHARE 12 , 15
16 Attatch back yoke D 0.8817 O/l at back yoke A 0.68 COMBINE 14 , 17
18 Match front upper body to back upper body 0.52
19 Serge at shoulder A 0.82
20 Shoulder attatch C 0.58
Match the neck facing 0.52
21 Attatch neck facing C 1.12
22 Back stitch at neck facing attatch C 0.92
23 Sew side seam C 0.86
24 O/l at side seam attatch A 0.62
25 Match sleeve to upper body 0.52
26 Attatch sleeve C 1.25
27 O/l at sleeve attatch A 0.78 SHARE 27 , 33
28 Sew gather at waist line D 0.88
29 Side joint waist band C 0.76
30 Crease the waist band and mark 0.92
31 Attatch waist band C 1.28
SHELL SKIRT
33 Sew back darts D 0.85 SHARE 27 , 33
34 Sew pleat at front waist line D 0.88 SHARE 34 , 41
35 Serge at centre back A 0.78
36 Attatch centre back C 0.68 SHARE 36 , 39
37 Bottom serge A 0.78
38 Sew the side seam C 0.88
39 O/l at side seam A 0.68 SHARE 36 , 39
40 Press the bottom hem 0.92
41 Bottom hem B 1.32 SHARE 34 , 41
ASSEMBLY
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42 Match upper body to lower body 0.52
43 Attatch upper body and lower body C 1.28 COMBINE 43,51
44 Finish waist band with crack stitch C 1.78 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47
45 Serge at zip open A 0.78
46 Attatch zip at centre back C 1.28 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47
47 Finish zipper end and top C 0.78 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47
48 Top stitch at zipper attatch C 1.02 COMBINE 49 , 48
49 Tack zipper at bottom C 0.32 COMBINE 48 , 49
50 Make and attatch main label at neck facing C 0.85
51 W/c lable attatch C 0.45 COMBINE 43,51
FINISHING
Marking for button attatch and button hole CButton watch C
Button hole making C 1.33
Spotting (if reqd) C 3.02
Thread cutting C 0.84
General checking C 1.14
Ironing D 0.42
Measurement checking D
Folding and packing D
MACHINE SUMMARY
Type of m/c NO.s
3 thread overlock(A) 8
Blind hem chain(B) 2
SNLS 17
SNLS - UBT(D) 6
TOTAL 33
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Observations acquired after combining several operations:
Sl.
No. Operations combined
total
sam
observed
value1 Side seam of neck facing
1.18 0.7743 Serge neck facing
Total sam when operations are performed individually= 1.18
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.774
Savings = 0.406
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
sam
Observed
value4 Hem neck facing
2.32 1.704
5 Mark the neck facing
9 Press the sleeve open for blind hem
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 2.32
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.704
Savings = 0.616
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
sam
Observed
value12 Attatch lace at front body
1.24 0.80615 O/l the front yoke joint
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.24
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.806
Savings = 0.434
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.No. Operations combined
Totalsam
Observedvalue
14 Attatch the front yoke to upper body
1.4 0.92417 O/l at back yoke
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.4
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.924
Savings = 0.476
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
sam
Observed
value27 O/l at sleeve attatch
1.63 1.03533 Sew back darts
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.63
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.035
Savings = 0.595
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
sam
Observed
value34 Sew pleat at front waist line
2.2 1.27641 bottom hem
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 2.2
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.276
Savings = 0.924
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
sam
Observed
value36 Attatch centre back
1.36 0.88439 O/l at side seam
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.36
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.884
Savings = 0.476
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
sam
Observed
value44 Finish waist band with crack stitch
3.84 3.294
46 Attatch zip at centre back
47 Finish zipper end and top
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 3.84
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 3.294
Savings = 0.546
3
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5
3.6
3.7
3.8
3.9
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
Sam
Observed
value48 Top stitch at zipper attatch
1.34 1.11649 Tack zipper at bottom
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.34
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.116
Savings = 0.224
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Sl.
No. Operations combined
Total
sam
Observed
value51 W/c lable attatch
1.73 1.41543 Attatch upper body and lower body
Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.73
Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.415
Savings = 0.315
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2
total sam observed value
Series1
Series2
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Calculations:
Total sam without any combination or sharing = 41.14
Observed value after combining several operations together = 36.482
Total savings = 4.658
Total savings in terms of percentage = 11.32%
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Conclusions :
A penny saved is a penny earned. The delay reduction and Control measures suggested herein
when implemented will result in limiting the huge amount of money that supplier pays
against delayed orders and will also increase On time delivery rate thus meeting the TNA and
In store dates. The Senior Merchandisers, Merchandiser and Product and Quality team were
asked to categorize the cause of delays into controllable and un-controllable delays
The actual lead time is higher than the planned lead time, so it can be said that there is
significant difference between the planned and the actual lead time which could be reduced if
the operators are trained properly as well as the vendors are instructed correctly. Everyone
has to understand their responsibility so that the job is done properly and timely.
Lead time reduction was seen possible in the pre production and production stages by
implementing several methods of combining , sharing and eliminating several activities
which brought control the lead time upto 11 % in the production of style no. #307753
Whereas after following the suggested measures based on the root cause analysis the
reduction of delays in some pre production activities were summed as :
Delay area Duration Duration after
following
measures
Percentage
reduction
Lab dips 7 days 4 days 40
Approval(sy) 15 days 10-12 days 26
Quality 20- 23 days 15-16 days 22
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Results:
After combination of some operations in the operation bulletin the lead time wasreduced to 11 %.
time taken (in
minutes) difference
total sam 41.14
4.658
observed
value 36.48
After following the suggested measure from the improvement action plan the delaysoccurring in the approval of lab dips , sample yardage and quality issue wascontrolled to 40 % , 26% and 22% respectively.
Delay area Percentage reduction
Lab dips 40
Approval(sy) 26
Quality 22
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Improvement Action Plan
Pre-production stage:
Strategies for
Improvement Measure(s) of Effectiveness Responsible Person(s)
Action item #1: Training seminars for workers Fabric supplier
Action item #2:Usage of correct composition of
fabric and colors
Fabric supplier
Action item #3:
Nip impression of padding mangle
is to be checked Dyeing mill
Action item #4:Changes should be brought in Pre
production sample Vendor
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Limitations and scope for further study
A project when completes lays the foundation for another Research study, for nothingis ever perfect. The scope and limit of the project did not permit the implementation
of each suggested measure.
Many times it was very difficult to conduct in depth interviews since the departmentmerchandisers didnt have much time to devote.
Raw data collected was for two months available at Triburg centre of learning ,so allsuggestions and recommendations are applicable only to the said company.
Due to less exposure of the vendors side it allowed only a few days in a week to seekany kind of data collection.
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REFERENCES :
1) http://www.equal-works.com/resources/contentfiles/307.pdf
2) http://www.nesta.org.uk/publications/toolkits/assets/features/case_study_trims_-_choice_procurement_and_timely_delivery
3) http://www.equal-works.com
A new market opportunity Johanna Bergvall-Forsberg
William Lee Innovation Centre
University of Manchester
4) http://www.nesta.org.uk/publications/toolkits/assets/features/case_study_-_finding_a_production_unitmanufacturer
5) http://www.tutor2u.net/business/gcse/production_efficiency_improvements.html.
6) Overview of the Indian garment industry By : M. K. Panthaki
7) http://www.docstoc.com/docs/87615939/Fabric-and-Garment-
Performance-Testing.
8)http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-production-
processes-in-garment-html.
http://www.equal-works.com/resources/contentfiles/307.pdfhttp://www.equal-works.com/http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-production-http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-production-http://www.equal-works.com/http://www.equal-works.com/resources/contentfiles/307.pdf -
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Annexures