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An Outdoor RoomWRiteR: Bill lahay. illustRAtOR: Roxanne lemoine. PROject designeR: Jeni hilpipRe-wRight.
To make the garden structure featured on the cover of this issue, follow these instructions.
®12 wood stakes (18–24 inches long) ®Four cardboard tube concrete forms, 12-
inch diameter, 4 feet long*
®20 bags ready-mix concrete, 80 pounds each*
®Four metal post base brackets with fasteners*
®1 cubic yard crushed rock or pea gravel
®12 pieces 1×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for window frames)
®Three pieces 4×4 (nominal) pressure-treated pine, 8 feet long (for part A)
®22 pieces 4×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for parts B–L)
®Two pieces 2×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for part M)
®Two barn sash windows (22×29 inches) or equivalent (optional)
®Three barn sash windows (22×41 inches) or equivalent (optional)
®One package 5d (1 3⁄4-inch) galvanized finishing nails
®Thirty 3⁄8×6-inch lag screws with flat washers
®One package No. 10×3-inch deck screws
®10 sheets corrugated galvanized steel roof panels, 25×72 inches
®One galvanized cap/ridge flashing, 8 feet long
®One package washer-head screws (for metal roof panels)
®One package No. 6×1 5⁄8-inch deck screws
®1 gallon exterior-grade clear wood sealer (or semitransparent stain)
*Optional: recommended for high-wind areas or where required by code
¸materials®Tape rule®Hammer ®Posthole digger (if placing
concrete piers)®Builder’s level (4 feet or longer)®Trenching shovel®Carpenter’s pencil®Angle square or combination square®Portable circular saw®Table saw®Wood chisel (1 inch or larger)®Drill with 3⁄16- and 3⁄8-inch bits®Drill bit, 12 inches long,
1⁄4-inch diameter®Ratchet driver with 9⁄16-inch socket®12-inch power miter saw®No. 2 Phillips screwdriver or
driver bit®Two stepladders (8 feet)®Paintbrushes
¸ toolsPAge 34
Skill level: Beginning woodworkerTime to complete: One weekend (allow additional time if you include concrete footings)Estimated cost: $1,200 (with footings)
get goingFirst, select a site that is reasonably level, and drive
a wood stake at each corner (each wall measures
93 inches). To ensure a square footprint, adjust the
stakes until the diagonals measure the same length
(131 1⁄2 inches). If you live in
a windy area or your local code requires concrete
footings for a structure this size, dig holes for four
concrete piers under the side walls as shown on
page 94. Level the cardboard forms in the holes, fill
with mixed concrete, and insert a post base
bracket in each while the concrete is wet. For our
project, we also trenched for the sides and back
wall so the sill plates would nest flush with the
ground. Use the trench digger to dig the trenches
several inches deeper and wider than necessary,
then add crushed rock or pea gravel to the
trenches to improve drainage. Let the concrete
footings cure for at least three days.
Build theWindow FramesAlthough the window assemblies are installed later
in the process, building them first lets you space
the beams and collar ties correctly. The finished
window frame sizes will depend on the window
sash you buy. For the frame stock, use the circular
saw to cut 1×4 cedar boards to the required
lengths and attach them to the sash as shown in
the Window Assembly Detail illustration, above.
Then use a table saw to rip the extra 1×4 stock into
do it guide
DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 93
3⁄4-inch molding strips and attach them as shown,
using 5d finishing nails. Set aside for now.
cut and Assemblethe Wall FramesStart by cutting the sill plates (A) to length;
because they rest directly on
the ground, these timbers should be pressure-
treated pine rated for ground-contact use. Then
cut the other frame parts (B–D) to length. For the
top wall plates (D), mark the half-lap notches as
shown in the Half-Lap Joint Detail illustration,
opposite, and use the portable circular saw to
make multiple cuts in the notch portion. Break
away the waste material with a hammer, then use a
chisel to pare the surface flat and smooth. Note
that these end notches are the same for all four
top plates, but are oriented differently—set the
front and rear plates with the notch faceup and
the side plates with the notch facedown.
On each corner post (B), mark the locations for
the sill plates (A) and crossbeams (C). The vertical
distance between the two beams should equal the
height of the taller window assemblies. On a flat
surface, such as a patio or driveway, fit together
parts A–C of one side wall. Use the 12-inch-long
B
C
E
D
A
L
F
G
HJ
K
M
AA
BB
B
B
B
C
C
C
C
C
D
D
D
DD
D
F
F
F
HJ
K
L
Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing
3/8" lag screws6" long
Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels
(6' long)
Window frame of1 x 4" cedar
M
3" deck screws
3/8" lag screw6" long at
corner posts
B
No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints
3/8" lag screw6" long at corners
Window frames(1x4" cedar)
Concrete pier footing(12" diameter)
Post-base bracketembedded
in concrete pier
Note: Concrete piers optional.
BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES
ROOF ASSEMBLY
D
45o bevelon part M
Half-laps
M
45o
11/2"
31/2"
END VIEW DETAIL
An Outdoor Room1x4" cedar Wood frame
barn sash
3/4 x 3/4" cedar molding
#6 x 15/8" deck screw
5d finishing nails
WINDOW ASSEMBLY DETAIL
B
C
E
D
A
L
F
G
HJ
K
M
AA
BB
B
B
B
C
C
C
C
C
D
D
D
DD
D
F
F
F
HJ
K
L
Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing
3/8" lag screws6" long
Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels
(6' long)
Window frame of1 x 4" cedar
M
3" deck screws
3/8" lag screw6" long at
corner posts
B
No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints
3/8" lag screw6" long at corners
Window frames(1x4" cedar)
Concrete pier footing(12" diameter)
Post-base bracketembedded
in concrete pier
Note: Concrete piers optional.
BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES
ROOF ASSEMBLY
D
45o bevelon part M
Half-laps
M
45o
11/2"
31/2"
END VIEW DETAIL
do it guide
94 DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006
PaRTS [a]
Sill Plates [B]
Corner Posts
[C] Cross-beams
[D] Top Wall
Plates
[E]Center Beam
[F]Rafters
[G]Ridge Beam
[H]Purlins
[J]Collar Ties
[K]Ridge Blocks
[L] Roof
Braces
[M]Beveled
Roof Plates
THICKnESS 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 1 1⁄2
WIDTH 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2
LEnGTH 86 84 86 93 86 67 86 86 25* 10* 60 86
QUanTITY 3 4 6 4 1 4 1 2 2 2 2 2
Notes: All dimensions are in inches. *Lengths may vary; cut to fit.
drill bit to drill a 1⁄4-inch hole through
the posts and into the beam/sill ends at each joint
as shown. Then switch to a 3⁄8-inch bit and enlarge only the holes in the posts.
Tap a 3⁄8×6-inch lag screw
into each hole until it seats firmly, then tighten
with a ratchet driver. (Use this technique on the
roof frame joints, too.)
Set some scrap blocks of wood across the wall
trenches, then recruit a helper to lift the first wall
assembly into position; use ground stakes and
temporary braces to stabilize it. Repeat for the
second wall section, then use more lag screws to
connect the two walls with the rear sill and beams,
creating a U-shape structure. With at least two
helpers, remove the scrap blocks from the
trenches and lower the frame assembly into place;
check for level, plumb, and square, and attach the
sills to the post base brackets in the concrete
footings. Use 3-inch deck screws to attach the top
wall plates (D). Backfill the trenches with gravel.
cut and Assemblethe Roof FrameRather than precut all the parts for the roof frame,
work in stages so you can test-fit the pieces as you
go. Start by attaching the center beam (e) to the
front and rear top plates (D) with lag screws, just as
you connected the wall crossbeams to the posts.
Next, use the power miter saw to cut four
rafters (F) with 45-degree miters at the base ends;
leave the opposite ends
a few inches longer than listed. With a helper, set
two rafters up at the front gable end, with their
angled ends placed at the corners and the upper
ends slightly offset so they bypass each other.
Mark each rafter end along the upper edge of the
opposing rafter, then square-cut those ends and
cut half-lap notches as shown, similar to the top
wall plate ends. Refit and attach with 3-inch deck
screws to the top wall plate corners as shown.
Repeat for the rear rafters. With all the rafters in
place, fit and attach the ridge beam (g) and the
purlins (H) with lag screws as shown.
Using the smaller window assemblies for
spacing, cut and fit the collar ties (J) into the end
gables as shown; attach with 3-inch deck screws.
Then cut and attach the two ridge blocks (K) the
same way. Finally, cut a 45-degree miter on one
end of each roof brace (L) and do a test fit to mark
the lower end; cut to fit, and attach with lag screws
as shown.
With the frame complete, apply a coat of
exterior-grade clear sealer or semitransparent stain
if desired.
install Roofingand WindowsUse the table saw to rip two cedar 2×4s with a 45-
degree bevel cut to make the roof plates (M); use
3-inch deck screws to attach them to the top wall
plates, with the bevel facing out and aligned with
the rafters as shown. Starting at one end, place a
corrugated metal roofing panel along the rafter
B
C
E
D
A
L
F
G
HJ
K
M
AA
BB
B
B
B
C
C
C
C
C
D
D
D
DD
D
F
F
F
HJ
K
L
Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing
3/8" lag screws6" long
Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels
(6' long)
Window frame of1 x 4" cedar
M
3" deck screws
3/8" lag screw6" long at
corner posts
B
No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints
3/8" lag screw6" long at corners
Window frames(1x4" cedar)
Concrete pier footing(12" diameter)
Post-base bracketembedded
in concrete pier
Note: Concrete piers optional.
BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES
ROOF ASSEMBLY
D
45o bevelon part M
Half-laps
M
45o
11/2"
31/2"
END VIEW DETAIL
31/2"
13/4"
Make multiple saw cuts 13/4" deep
Break away waste pieces
Pare smooth with chisel
HALF-LAP JOINT DETAIL
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
edge, with a slight overhang and with its top edge
slightly below the peak of the ridge beam. Attach
with washer-head screws. Overlap the next panel
at least one full ridge, and fasten. Repeat to install
the remaining roof panels, then attach the cap
flashing along the ridge.
To install the window assemblies, simply fit
them into place and drive 1 5⁄8-inch deck screws
through the 1×4 stock into the crossbeams, top
wall plates, and/or collar ties. ß
1x4" cedar Wood framebarn sash
3/4 x 3/4" cedar molding
#6 x 15/8" deck screw
5d finishing nails
WINDOW ASSEMBLY DETAIL
www.diyideas.com
DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 95