Edwardian & WWI Chapter 15

Chapter 15

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1900 - 1920

THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I

C H A P T E R F I F T E E N

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The first decade of the 20th Century was called the Edwardian Period after King Edward VII of England (Reigned 1901 to 1910).

Alexandra, consort of Edward VII, King of Great Britain

Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist

Edwardian styles with an emphasis on an S shaped silhouette were ascendant from c. 1900 1908.

Undergarments supported this line.

Drawers

Camisoles or Combination Suits

Corsets

Corset Covers

Petticoats

Not only did corsets shape the body, but some corset covers with attached ruffles provided the desired full-bosomed effect.

Visit the Twentieth Century Silhouette and Support virtual exhibit at the Met

The Gibson Girl, created by Charles Dana Gibson, personified the ideal of young feminine beauty.

The white cotton or linen dress, ornamented with tucks, ruffles, and lace, resembled the frilly lingerie of the period and was called a Lingerie Dress.

A high, boned collar

Sleeves often softly gathered to a wristband, called bishop sleeves

Narrow waist, with a decorative belt

A full bosom

Characteristic features of garments included:

These same elements were evident in the popular shirtwaists and skirts of the period.

By 1908 the line started to change. New features included and elevated waistline or Empire style revival and the Hobble skirt 1908 1914.

The shape of undergarments echoed the new line.

Oriental influences were evident in some clothing.

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Fashion Designer Paul Poiret, credited with making narrow Hobble skirts popular, was a major influence on fashion.

Another important designer of the period was Fortuny who was know for pleated Delphos dresses and handsome fabrics.

Elements of fashionable lines included somewhat higher waistlines and more slender skirts.

By this time automobiles were coming into wider use, and men and women dressed in Dusters, protective hats, and goggles as they rode in open cars.

World War I began in 1914 and lasted until 1918.

Clothing became more practical. Skirts shortened and widened, clothing became less encumbering as women took on more tasks usually done by men.

Both day time and evening dresses were shorter and fuller. Military influences were evident.

After the war styles changed again, taking on more slender lines that served as a transition into the next decade.

Bathing dress continued to become less encumbering.

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C H A P T E R F I F T E E NTHE EDWARDIAN PERIODAND WORLD WAR I1900 - 1920

Throughout this period women worked actively to gain the right to vote. By 1920 women in the United States had been granted the vote.

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Changes in styles for men were less frequent and less dramatic than for women.

Union or one-piece undergarments or drawers and undershirts were worn.

For a mans suit, the elements continued to be a shirt, worn with a necktie, a vest, jacket, and trousers. Sack suite jackets predominated.

Outdoor working men wore warm wool jackets and businessmen wore tailored overcoats, such as the Chesterfield.

As men engaged in active sports, they wore garments appropriate for each sport.

Clothing worn by soldiers during World War I made its way into civilian life after the war.

Sweaters

Trench coats

Wrist Watches

Small Boys were less likely to wear skirts after 1910, and instead wore shorts, knickers, or trousers.



Childrens clothing became more comfortable and less restrictive, although elements similar to clothing of adults can be identified.

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McAllen children, March 1912.

Children trying on new shoes on shoe day, 1905.



For Further Study

Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of the dress of the year. http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

Fashion Designers

http://www.fortuny.com/Home.html http://www.designerhistory.com/historyofashion/poiret.html http://www.gbacg.org/Articles/dressmakers.pdf

Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.



Image Credits

Edward VII - Photo at Tree Planting, courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, London.Alexandra, consort of Edward VII, King of Great Britain, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59506 (b&w film copy neg.)].Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59503 (b&w film copy neg.)].Edwardian Style Dress, from the authors slide collection.Edwardian Drawers, http://www.knowlesville.com/matt/vintage_fashion/images/1915-drawers-1.jpg. Edwardian Undergarments, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection #828275.Edwardian Petticoat, http://www.vintagemartini.com/clothing/edwardian/pages/2387.html.1905 White Cotton Sunburst Cutwork Camibloomers, http://www.antiquedress.com/item2153.htm.Camille Clifford in Corset, http://www.geocities.com/ther_over/clifford.html. WB Erect Form Corset Add, http://www.adclassix.com/images02erectformcorsets.jpg. Ruffled Corset, from the authors collection.Article on the Gibson Girl, from the authors collection.High School Graduate Picture 1904 Girl in Lingerie Dress, Photograph courtesy, Melissa Clark.April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 557Tea Gown c. 1905 - Front and Back, http://www.antique-fashion.com/2468a.jpg, courtesy Karen AugustaGolfers Mrs. J. S. Sheehan, Grace Anthony, and Nellie Anthony standing in the shade of a structure on an unidentified golf course, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0509/s050954.jpg, SDN-050954, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical Society.April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 573Women in Empire Revival and Hobble Skirts, from the authors collection.Royal Worcester Kidfitting Corsets advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg. xvThe Original Brassiere - the "Bien Jolie" advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg xv



Image Credits

Lucile Avant Garde Vivid Voided Velvet Evening Gown, ttp://www.doylenewyork.com/pr/couture/04CT02/images/3393_Lucile.jpg Advertisement for Silk Kimonos, New York Times, April 25, 1915, Library of Congress, Serials and Government Publications Division, Washington, D.C., http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.gdc/sgpnyt.19150425 Lassitude: dinner gown by Paul Poiret, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 2, Dover Publications Goodness, How Cold It Is, winter coat by Paul Poriet, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 16, Dover PublicationsFortuny Evening Gown "Delphos", http://www.mkg-hamburg.de/english/Inhalt/samml/tex2.htm Multiple images from authors collectionsMotorist, Mrs. F. W. Hedgeland, driving a car with two women in the backseat], http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0033/s003345.jpg, SDN-003345, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical Society."Various soldier Images from Prudential Army-Navy Booklet, http://freepages.military.rootsweb.com/~worldwarone/WWI/PrudentialArmy-NavyBooklet/ Women's Suits of 1915, (French Fashion Magazine, LArt de la Mode, 1915) Women in World War I Era Dresses, from the authors collection.Woman in Dress from Magazine Ad 1918, from the authors collection. Crowd posed on and in front of the Steel Pier, Atlantic City, New Jersey, Library of Congress, [LC-USZ62-100234 (b&w film copy neg.)], http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/cph/3c00000/3c00000/3c00200/3c00234v.jpg Woman and child in bathing dress, from the authors collection. Silent movie, Women suffragettes visit TR at Sagamore [1917] / Hearst-Pathe News, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4168.mpg Hart, Schaffner and Marx advertisement, from the authors collection.Hanes Union Suit Ad 1918, Fairchild Archives.Group D class, Illinois College of Photography, Effingham, Illinois, January 25, 1911, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/award/ndfa/ndfahult/b400/b415r.jpg



Image Credits

F. Lowden, in topcoat, holding hat, Library of Congress, [LC-DIG-ggbain-03636 (digital file from original neg.)], http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/ggbain/03600/03636r.jpg Yale Football Team 1908, Library of CongressChildren trying on new shoes on shoe day, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0028/n002805.jpg McAllen children, March 1912, http://runyon.lib.utexas.edu/n2r?urn:utlol:runyon.05042.jpg, The Center for American History and General Libraries, University of Texas at Austin Source collection, Robert Runyon Photograph Collection"Silent movie, TR calls on neighbors at Christmas, 1917 / [Production company unknown], Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4101.mpg



Edwardian & WWI Chapter 15

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Transcript of Edwardian & WWI Chapter 15