Edible Baja Arizona - November/December 2015

MA

DE

IN T

UC

SON

No. 15 N

ovember/D

ecember 2015

Arizona Grapes for Arizona WineTucsons China Dignifying Hunger Gulf Shrimp

edibleedibleedibleedibleedibleedibleNovember/December 2015 Issue No. 15 $4.99

edibleedibleedibleBAJABAJABAJA AAARIZONARIZONARIZONA

edible Baja Arizona 5

6 COYOTE TALKING

10 ONLINEWhats happening at EdibleBajaArizona.com?

12 VOICESWe asked community members at the Armory Park Senior Center: Whats your favorite food memory?

18 GLEANINGSInch by Inch Wormery; Tumericos treats; Tubacs new garden.

24 BAJA EATS

32 THE PLATEThe spiciest thing they should never take o the menu.

41 EDIBLE HOMESTEADUnderstanding chill hours; Arizonas home baking program; vegan pies for the holidays; whats in season in farms in Baja Arizona.

62 IN THE BUSINESSDiablo Burgers Derrick Widmark talks conservation through food.

70 LOCAL GIRL GOES LOCALKate ate local foodand only local foodfor 30 days. Heres how it went.

82 MEET YOUR FARMERAt the o-the-grid SouthWinds Farm, Joe Marlow is optimistic about growing organic produce and changing behavior.

90 POLICYRevisiting chicken politics in the Old Pueblo.

100 HOME MADEA program at Emerge! Center Against Domestic Abuse is helping women reclaim the kitchenand reconnect with themselves.

140 BUZZArizona winemakers are working to protect their growing industryand the premium that comes with growing grapes in Arizonas rugged terrain.

150 BOOZE NEWS

158 INKPig Tales; The Ethical Meat Handbook.

162 LAST BITEMolly McKasson plants her winter garden.

Features Contents

104 A DISPLACED HUNGERAt the Kino Border Initiatives Nogales comedor, recently deported migrants get more than just a warm mealthey get a sense of dignity.

116 BY CATCHING SHRIMPMexicos shrimp trawlers are decimating Gulf ecosystems and bottoming out already fragile fisheries.

128 MADE IN TUCSONIn a factory just south of downtown, Tucsons HF Coors is continuing a 90-year legacy of manufacturing durable dinnerware for restaurants, hotels, and homes.

6 November/December 2015

ON A SUNDAY AFTERNOON in mid-October, my wife and I made our way to the base of Sentinel Peak and entered the adobe-walled Mission Garden. This is where the Friends of Tucsons Birthplace are lovingly tending to the agricultural history of Chuk Shon, the Tohono Oodham words for place at the base of the black hill. A few hundred people had gathered to celebrate an early harvest meal at a long table adjacent to a glorious orchard of heritage fruit trees. A fundraiser for the Friends and Native Seeds/SEARCH, the event was a quintessential Baja Arizona experience: sitting down to share a meal in the very spot where people have grown and eaten food for more than 4,000 years. It was a way to reconnect with that singular sense of place that emanates from eating close to home.

Our own Kate Selby, who masterfully manages all our digital content, set out to make that very connection to place. At an editorial retreat earlier this summer, we fl oated a story idea about documenting 30 days of eating solely from sources within 250 miles of Tucson. Kate enthusiastically volunteered for the assignment and in this issue reports on the transformative impact it had for her and her family. As she reported in our September/October issue, before the experience, she had never visited a local farmers market. She discovers that within the tents and tables of Tucsons farmers markets, there exists the most delightful community: producers and consumers striving together to abandon the industrial food system in favor of a more humanand in the case of meat, milk, and eggs, more humaneway of sourcing food. With a newborn in the house and a demanding work schedule, Kate discovered that the challenge wasnt nearly as di cult as she imagined. Every temptation I encountered was made more bearable by reminding myself that my choice to eat local was a deliberate step toward supporting a more sustainable and diverse foodshed. Get inspired by Kates journey and you might experience your own local eating epiphany.

I know what the desert is likeI know how hard it isI know all they have been through. Thats why I want to cook well for them. We want to make it delicious. I always try to put love and fl avor into the food. These are the words of Mariana Serrano Reyesa migrant who was deported when she attempted to cross the border four years agoexplaining her commitment to provide daily meals to recently deported migrants at a special place just across the border in Nogales, Sonora. Known simply as the comedor, this project of the Kino Border Initiative will serve more than 40,000 meals this year to deported migrants who are often left in Mexico literally starving after their experience. The comedor has become a community centerand sometimes much more for many who have left or been torn from their communities, writes John Washington. Providing these basic needsa safe place and a delicious warm mealcan be transformative for the people who fi nd themselves in this desperate situation.

In the waters o Mexicos Gulf of California, more than 1,200 shrimp boats spend seven months every fall and spring in search of the most valuable fi sh Mexico exports. Maria Johnson takes you aboard the shrimp boats in her powerful photo essay on the industry. As she writes, the environmental impact of bottom trawling is immense, primarily due to the high rate of bycatch, which totals more than 86 percent by weight in the region. This mean that for each pound of shrimp, there are nearly nine pounds of other organisms that are thrown back to the sea dead or injured. Ultimately, consumers can have the biggest impact by demanding more sustainable fi shing methods.

Megan Kimble visits a Tucson treasure known as HF Coors. Located just south of downtown, the company is continuing a nearly 90-year legacy of manufacturing durable dinnerware. The factory, Megan writes, is 33,000 square feet of clay-covered motion; turning 20 tons of clay and 5,000 pounds of glaze into more than 25,000 dishes every single weekThe pottery is imaginative, distinctive, diverse. It is heavy; it is homey. It is used in hundreds of restaurants across the United States, dozens in Tucson. A genuine made in Tucson success story that youll want to discover for yourself.

And fi nally, a bit of magazine business: With this issue we are excited to move our printing from Denver to Courier Graphics in Phoenix. It will be splendid to be 90 minutes away from press check and to be able to support yet one more local business. Were happy to be able to state thatEdible Baja Arizonais 100 percent made in Arizona.

As always, theres much, much more to discover in this issue. Well see you around the table. Salud!

COYOTE TALKING

TERROIR: A SENSE O

F PLACE O

N YOUR PLATE.

Douglas Biggers, editor and publisher

Reconnect with that singular sense of place that emanates

om eating

close to home.


On the cover and above: Tempranillo grapes om Flying Leap Vineyards in Elgin.

Photo by Amy Martin

Editor and PublisherDouglas Biggers

Managing EditorMegan Kimble

Art DirectorSteve McMackin

Business CoordinatorKate Kretschmann

Advertising ConsultantJohnny Smith

Digital Content ManagerKate Selby

Senior Contributing EditorGary Paul Nabhan

DesignersLyric Peate, Sally Brooks, Bridget Shanahan

Copy EditorFord Burkhart

ProofreaderCharity Whiting

ContributorsLee Allen, Merrill Eisenberg, Autumn Giles,

Laura Greenberg, Paul Ingram, Bryan Eichhorst, John Washington, Maria Johnson, Kathleen Vandervoet,

Lisa ONeill, Sara Jones, Shelby Thompson, Amy Belk, Molly Kincaid, Molly McKasson

Photographers & ArtistsJulie DeMarre, Catherine Eyde, Katya Granger,

Maria Johnson, Isadora Lassance, Elijah LeComte, Amy Martin, Danny Martin, Steven Meckler, Jeff Smith

DistributionRoyce Davenport, Mel Meijas,

Shiloh Thread-Waist Walkosak, Steve and Anne Bell Anderson

Wed love to hear from you.307 S. Convent Ave., Barrio Viejo

Tucson, Arizona 85701520.373.5196

[email protected] EdibleBajaArizona.com

Say hello on social mediafacebook.com/EdibleBajaArizonayoutube.com/EdibleBajaArizona

twitter.com/EdibleBajaAZflickr.com/ediblebajaarizonainstagram.com/ediblebajaaz

pinterest.com/edibleba

VOLUME 3, ISSUE 3.Edible Baja Arizona (ISSN 2374-345X) is published six times annually by Coyote Talking, LLC. Subscriptions are available for $36 annually by phone or at EdibleBajaArizona.com. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without the express written permission of the publisher. Member of the Association of Edible Publishers (AEP).

(Le ) Ten Fi y-Five Brewing's new brew: 100 percent locally sourced "Our Valentine," made with barley om BKW Farms and wild hops

om Mount Lemmon. (Center) Nopales, pescado, and papas tacos during Pencas happy hour, 3 p.m.-6 p.m. in downtown Tucson.

(Right) A #LocalGirlGoesLocal breakfast: local peaches, eggs, and pancakes made with an egg white meringue instead of nonlocal

leaveners and, of course, local wheat.

Join the ConversationEdible Baja Arizona is always serving up esh content online! Visit EdibleBajaArizona.com.

From the Blog:

A Garden Grows in El Barrio

Logan Phillips is turning his backyard into an urban farming paradise, transforming what was a dirt lot into a fertile space, for ideas and food. Follow along as he builds an urban farm in downtown Tucson, with new posts every other week in our A Garden Grows in El Barrio series:

http://bit.ly/AGardenGrows

Our Instagram account has been bursting with photos from places we visit, restaurants we enjoy, gardens we grow, and behind-the-scenes looks at how we make the magazine.

Instagram.com/ediblebajaaz

Bocaditos is our own bi-weekly newsletter that packs the avor of Edible Baja Arizonas online o erings into tasty little bites. It o ers:

A roundup of upcoming local events. e best of the eBA blog and social media. Great giveaways for newsletter subscribers,

like movie tickets to The Loft Cinema and gift certificates to local restaurants.

Exclusive original recipes, and more!

Go to EdibleBajaArizona.com/newsletter to sign up!

instagram.com/ediblebajaazyoutube.com/EdibleBajaArizonafacebook.com/EdibleBajaArizona

pinterest.com/ediblebatwitter.com/EdibleBajaAZ


VISIT MT Lemmon

Shop and Dine in Summerhaven and Ski Valley Stay in a Cabin Stargaze at the UA Sky Center Hike Cool, Forested Trails Learn at the Palisades Visitor Center Have a Picnic Pitch a Tent

Ride the Ski Lift Climb a Rock Listen to the Wind in the Pines Relax on a Deck Savor a Vista

A visit to this natural treasure is wonderful in every season. Climbing 6,000 feet in 25 miles, the scenic Catalina Highway takes you through six distinct life zones, amazing geological formations, and awesome vistas, ending at 9,157 feet in a conifer forest!

TUcsons sky island paradise

I did this cookbook for the family. Its called Healthy Mexican Cooking. I did all the old recipesand all the recipes have stories to them. This recipe reminds me of Tucson in the summerthe story I want to share is about a summer salad. Its called Salpicon. Its a very old recipe. It was always used specifically for Dia de San Juan,

which is June 24. Its a day in Mexico, in Sonora,

that the rains used to start. When people moved up here, they expected the rains to start at the same

time, but usually they dont start, so the people

said, maybe if we keep making this special food

for San Juan, hell come back. The main thing in

ityou may not like itis tongue. My mother-in-law was born here in 1898. They would plan for this all year, talk to the Chinese people who

grow vegetables to make sure they had them. What it includes are lots and lots of vegetables, black

olives, and hard boiled eggs, and the tongue is

made ahead of time, marinated in vinegar. You

dont mix the salad. I still think of my mother-in-law every time I make itshed just get so excited about it. My daughter knows how to make it now, too.

VOICES

We asked community members at the Armory Park Senior Center: Whats your favorite food memory?

Photography by Julie DeMarre

Alba B. Torres, 8312 November/December 2015

My mother made a lot of tamales. In todays world,

you use a mixer to make the masawell, she didnt

believe in that. You had to do it by hand. She always

had a glass of water next to the mixing bowl. Shed do it and do it, and then take a little piece of

masa and if it didnt float to the top, it wasnt any

good. My three sisters and I would be kneading and kneading and kneading forever. Wed say, Mom! And

shed say, keep going. And finally, itd float to the

top, and shed say, O.K., its ready. And then shed

add the red chile in there and mix it all up, and

shed say, O.K., knead it a few more times. But she

wouldnt stop until the masa was totally mixed with the red chile and it was just the right color, a nice

orange-red. We would be kneading forever! We still

talk about that today.

We had a house in Armory Park,

and in the back of the house there was a two-bedroom guesthouse. In between, there was a shed with an old-

fashioned stove, where Mom used to

make homemade tortillas. There were eight of us. The tortillas wouldnt last. Because every time wed pass that

shed, wed snatch one.

There was a special dish that Mom used to make; it was called pan perdido. It was like a cornbread,

mixed with red chile, corn, meat.

Shed put it in the oven so thered be a good crust on the top. It wasnt seasonalshed make it anytime wed asked her to make it, which was

every other week. It was good food because it was home grown. We had pigeons, rabbits. We had fig tree

plants, pomegranate plants, grapes.

Everything was right there, in the

backyard.

Rosa Bradley, 70

Alex Higuera, 80edible Baja Arizona 13

I was born and raised in Tucson. My mother used to make tortillas so we could have them hot for lunch when we came home from school. We always had refried beans on the table. We always had meat, chile

con carneits delicious. I like to make it at home myself. I make better chile than most people.

I dont think I have a secret. You get good meat,

chile, and beansyou just have to cook them right.

Tortillas are a very big part of the meal for me. Theyre hard to make. You dont just put it in the oven

and pull it out. Each one has to be made separateits a lot of labor.

During the war, they needed men to

work on the planes at Davis-Monthan,

so thats what my father did. We lived in the projects right there by 15th Street and Plumer. My mother made

a lot of chile con carne. We grew up eating a lot of different things. I learned about eating vegetables from our next-door neighbor. They were always serving peas and string beans,

things we never had. I saw her eating them, and I got interested.

Today, I like nopalitos. My

sister says she never liked to think about nopalitosits a cactusbut I like to make them in different waysscrambled with eggs, or with

tomato sauce and onion. I also like to eat kale. I was working with the Community Food Bankthey came to

my backyard to show me how to make the raised garden bed just a couple of years ago. Thats how I learned about kale. I like kale a lotits very nutritious. Betty Padilla, 80

Carlos Vasquez, 9114 November/December 2015

My favorite food? Enchiladas. From here in Tucson. My grandmother made them, and my wife makes them,

too. During the holidays, and

special occasions and gatherings,

birthdays and anniversaries. My moms enchiladas are the best because they raised me. Theyre a little spicy. My grandmother made them spicy, but my wife made them not

too hot for the kidsI have three kids. In Mexican culture, when

you eat hot stuff, you drink more

beer. I go to restaurants and they make enchiladas, but not the way my

aunt and my mother made them. The ingredients they use now, its way

different. You go to a restaurant

now, I can tell you, they dont taste

like the old ones, since theyre

using different ingredients.

One of my favorite things when I was a kid was in

the mornings, on Sundays, we would have menudo.

We made it at home. Menudo is a soup with the cow what is it called? Tripe. And hominy. Thats

basically what it is. My mom made it. It takes three hours to make, because the tripe has to be well

cooked. They put cilantro and onions on top, and

lemon, and we ate it with tortillas. That was what we

had for breakfast every Sundaythat was our treat. It was so delicious. Wed look forward to it. A lot of

times, wed get together on Sunday and have a family

get-together with a special meal. It wasnt hard to make, too. We made the white menudo, not with the red

chile, the Texas menudo. I always say, go to Texas if

you want it red. Im past 70Im of legal age, thats

what I always say.

Ramon Chino Quiroz, 75

Aurelia R. Mesa, 70+


A TUCSON COUPLE has discovered how they can both pay it backand pay it forwardin the most unlikely form, that of earthworms and their castings. It came out of a vision of restoration. Our soils are depleted and

worm castings are a quick way to restore them, said Sandra Morse, co-owner of Tucsons Inch by Inch, which produces large sacks of earthworm castings as organic and natural fertilizer for both indoor pots and outdoor garden use. Worm castings have a way of sort of rebalancing the natural world, she said.

This fl edgling fi rm is housed in a 5,000-square-foot warehouse on 19th Street called The Worm Hole. We started in November of 2014 with 20,000 pounds of worms and have been growing them ever since. Every room is fi lled, wall-to-wall, with worm bins and we currently have about 60,000 pounds of castings, she said.

As word begins to spread of these 10-pound bags of gardening gold, Sandra and her husband, Michael, expect demand to grow, tasking the red wiggler worms to increase their castings production. That would be a good problem to have, Michael said. Our partners who introduced us to this concept have a 100,000-square-foot oper-ation in Tennessee and they cant keep up with customer requests.

For the Morses, the cultivation of organic fertilizer with high levels of minerals allows them to make a contribution to the community in the form of waste management. To us, it looked like the perfect stormright place, right time, right philosophy, right product, Michael said.

Under ideal conditions, worms can eat at least their own weight in organic matter in a day. Our containers are 150 gallons and if you put a thousand pounds of worms in a bin, in two months there will be 2,000 pounds of wigglers, Michael said.

Worm castings are perfect for gardenerstheyre rich in humic acids, maintain an even pH balance, and contain more nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium than ordinary soil. Worm castings can be mixed into the soil of existing house plants or top-dressed on household and inside plants. Vegetable seedlings and transplants stand a better chance of success with a little nutritional boostmix one part worm casting to three parts soil. In outdoor raised beds, use two to four inches of castings to start, then add a side dressing during the growing season of half a cup per plant every two months.

We were surprised to learn that not everyone knows the benefi ts of worm castings, said Michael. Well start small at farmers markets, educating the public, and extolling the fact that castings are a great way to enhance our soil.

Word of mouth marketing is already starting a buzz. One farm, an organic orchard in southern Arizona, has already placed a thousand-pound order. But its the inch-by-inch, bag-by-bag growth curve thats in their business plan. Weve been polluting our planet for a long time and we need to change the way we do things, Sandra said.

Inch by Inch. 860 E. 19th St. 520.245.5273.

Inching to GrowCasting earthworms for soil restoration.

By Lee Allen | Photography by Elijah LeComte

Michael Morse, co-owner of Inch by Inch, tends to the gardeners gold that forms the base of their business.

gleanings


ITS 3 OCLOCK in the morning, but the light is already on in Wendy Garcias kitchen. There are butternut squash tamales and gluten free tacos to be made. I want to fix food that is interesting, flavor-filled, and healthyall at once, she says.

Despite her seven-day-a-week commitment, cooking is not just a job for her; its a passion. My foods are fresh, locally sourced, organic, and tastyand prepared with love, she says. When you say vegan or gluten-free, people think its not going to be tasty, and I want to change that perception.

Growing up in a meat-eating family in Hermosillo, Mexico, Garcia got her cooking gene from her father. En mi casa, es papa en la cocina, she says. Garcia became a vegan a decade ago, a choice reflected in her Tumerico products as she celebrates her second anniversary.

Making food is putting myself out there because a little part of me is in every product. I want people to feel comfortable when they come to the Tumerico table at farmers markets. I want them to enjoy my eorts and the love and passion I put into my cooking. I put a lot of heart in what I do. I have fun orchestrating production in the kitchen hoping that others will enjoy eating my food.

The first thing she started selling was butternut squash tamales, now her signature product. I take advantage of the extra pair of hands when my mother comes to visit me. Shell

tell me stories while were making 500 to 600 tamales at a time, working all day and stopping only when we run out of masa. I never have leftovers when it comes to tamales because they go well with rice and beans. Whats not to like there?

While tamales are No. 1 on her menu, other products include sweet potato enchiladas, quesadillas, vegan tacos, tortillas from rice and garbanzo bean flour, wraps, a super burrito, and quinoa burgers. I also make a good curry from scratch and because I personally love spices, I make super spicy salsas that are so hot few people can eat them. The hard-working chef oers a catering menu for groups of five to 50, working with clients to prepare their favorite dishes.

Garcia oers a table of tasty treats at the Santa Cruz River Farmers Market and sells pre-packaged foods at Aqua Vita, New Life Health Center, and the Food Conspiracy Co-op.

Look for a Tumerico food cart on the patio of Revolutionary Grounds coee shop on Fourth Avenue every Friday and Sat-urday evening starting in November. Its like a big hot dog cart that doesnt sell hot dogs, not even vegan ones, she says.

Good food requires good ingredients, hard work, patience, and love, and I think my cooking includes all of those.

Tumerico. 520.270.2055. Facebook.com/Tumerico.

Lee Allen likes to see whats growing in other peoples gardens.

Made with LoveTumerico offers esh, healthy foodand tasty, too.

By Lee Allen | Photography by Elijah LeComte

Wendy Garcia, owner of Tumerico, says that her signature tamales have good ingredients, hard work, patience, and love.

g


A N ETHNOBOTANICAL garden planted in May of 2014 at the 11-acre Tubac Presidio State Historic Park is thriving, acquainting visitors with native and native-adapted plant species, demonstrating water conservation principles in landscape design, and enlivening portrayals of 18th and 19th century Presidio life.

Tubac residents Ursula Uschi and Dave Young schemed up the garden to show the complex relationships between the many cultures that have lived in Baja Arizona and how they interacted with plants.

A visitor guide explains how plants were used by native people. Brewed tea leaves from Mormon tea (Ephedra nevadensis) helped relieve stomach and bowel disorders. Big sagebrush (Artemisia tridentate) could prevent infection in wounds, stop internal bleeding, and treat headaches and colds. Root powder from ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) was applied to contusions and joints to reduce swelling.

While the Youngs were students in the University of Arizona Master Gardener program, they went to the Tubac Presidio State Historic Park for an assignment. It was really bleak, Uschi recalls. There wasnt a whole lot of stu to observe other than mesquite trees.

So they got approval to start a small master gardeners pro-gram, beginning with a few creosote plants. We started with creosote because its such an interesting plant, Uschi says. We learned people had started looking down their noses at it in Tucson developments for a number of years.

The small successful addition drew an unexpectedly positive response from local folks, who asked if they could help out. Uschi suggested that they donate funds to buy plants.

Residents have since donated more than $9,000 for plants, irrigation, signs, and information pamphlets, says park director Shaw Kinsley.

Established in 1752 next to the Santa Cruz River, Tubac was the first European settlement in what later became Arizona. The Tubac Presidio State Historic Park became Arizonas first state park when it opened in 1958 and today includes an 1885 Territorial schoolhouse, a museum, an underground archaeology exhibit, and the printing press on which Arizonas first newspaper was printed. Among the gardens 27 listed plants, there are yucca, agave, sage, ocotillo, chiltepin peppers, and beargrass. Twelve of the 14 varieties of Texas ranger, or purple sage, are growing in the gardenwith a search ongoing for the final two varieties, Young said. The historic orchard includes peach, fig, pomegranate, plum, and quince trees.

The gardens plan was developed by Dave Young; to find plants that had historically thrived in this climate, he relied on Daniel E. Moermans book Native American Ethnobotany.

It was a ton of work, Uschi says. The nicest part was that there were some local volunteers who said, I dont know anything but I can make a hole if you show me where to make it.

And the master gardeners from Tucson would come down once a month and they had the knowledge as well as the will-ingness to dig, she said.

The addition of the ethnobotanic garden is the most won-derful addition we have made to the park because of its beauty and ... its historic and cultural significance, Kinsley says.

Tubac Presidio State Historic Park. 1 Burruel St., Tubac. 520.398.2252. tubacpresidio.org

Freelance writer Kathleen Vandervoet has lived in Tubac since 1978 and enjoys the desert-adapted plants that grow around her home.

A Plants ViewTubacs ethnobotanical garden puts beautyand historyon display.

By Kathleen Vandervoet | Photography by Elijah LeComte

Chiltepin peppers begin to bud at the Tubac Presidio State Historic Park.

g


H ER ES A CRPE story. Michele Frazier knew her husband, Joe, wanted a caf of his own after 30 years working as a chef in corporate America. So, she says, I Googled restaurant for sale. It was ironic. I didnt know anyone who could help me, but I thought maybe I could fi nd some people to talk to. Instead, she found their future: a crperie for sale on Fourth Avenue. That was in 2009. She laughs, Who buys a restaurant when the economy is down? We did.

The rest is Caf Marcel history. Cooking in a space so cramped they could barely turn around without bumping into each other, by the winter of 2015 theyd relocated to their new location, the old Check-erboard Caf on Oracle just north of Grant.

Michele says, Its comfortable. Its all that plus a slice of mom-and-pop paradise. Black tables, black and white tile, pine paneling. The ideal cozy spot to hang with friends for breakfast or lunch. And theres plenty of parking.

Whatever you call crpes, theyre an egg-based batter poured out onto a griddle in a big circle that is used as a vehicle for fi llings, then rolled up. Caf Marcels are light and huge, even their half orders. My friend says a crpe is the French version of the taco. To new customers, Michele describes it as a French burrito. Technically, theyre very thin cooked pancakes. Originating in Brittany, theyre considered a national dish in France. Many cuisines have similar dishes: Africa has the injera; Mexico, the tortilla; India, the dosa.

Now, chef Joe can get all fancy with his seasoned-to-perfection grill. My friend and I split the half order of ham, brie, spinach, and tomato with a side of their creamy herb sauce and our forks dueled in competition ($5.60). It was just the right amount of fresh fi lling before we lit into the spinach, tomato, pesto, and feta cheese crpe ($4.75), and tasted more magic. The feta really made the fl avors pop.

Caf Marcel offers sweet and savory fi llings. I never turn my back on dessert, so we split the pear, apple, brie, and honey crpe with a drizzle of confectioners sugar, whipped cream, topped with berries (half $5.25). It was sweet, but not overwhelming.

Theyre known for serving Arbuckles co eelocal, organic, fair tradewith its share of enthusiasts who show up daily for their Arbuckles fi x ($2.54). One woman even calls in her co ee order ahead. And Joe created the popular Nutella Mocha ($3.75) that has stirred up quite a fol-lowing. Great food; happy local owners. 2281 N. Oracle Road. CafeMarcel.biz. 520.623.3700.

I TS A BALMY NIGHT, and my friend Jennifer and I are ready for our culinary tour of Kalinas Russian Restaurant and Tea Service, so close to the local library I can almost sense the ghostly presence of Dostoevsky drinking his homelands most popular libation. So raising a glass to the famous and the dead, we tasted some of Kalinas abundant vodkas. Trending lately are varieties with two and three ingredients; we sampled an infused bison grass, so smooth it went down without any afterbite.

Our tsarina of food, Natasha Kalina, the owner, started our adventure with an assortment of sweet and savory tastesbaked spinach robed with dill cream cheese wrapped in salmon, eggplant caviar, walnut-crusted blue cheese bites with an edge of raspberry sauce, stu ed egg, and thin salami slic-es. Which goes perfectly with vodka, Kalina instructed as she handed another shot of a Polish distillation to Jennifer.

With Mother Russia, there is always a story. A bit of drama. Even with their dumplings. Kalina explains, Theyre usually made and kept outside in the icy cold, and when someone is hungry for a warm meal, theyre dunked in boiling water for a few minutes. Traditional-ly, pelmeni dumplings are packed with meat while their cousins, the vareniki, are vegetarian.

The pelmeni are lightly seasoned, round, chewy dough balls of pork and beef served with a side bath of vinegar and topped with sour cream. The vareniki are folded dough pockets crowded with seasoned smashed potato, served with sour cream and caramelized ribbons of

A trip around the world, right here in Tucson.

Caf Marcels sweet crpes.


onion. And with Russian food, there is always fresh dill marking the landscape.

Its the perfect Russian Federation. Ev-erythings cooked in house, and daily, the way Kalina remembers growing up back in Ukraine. With family recipes passed down, Kalinas warm version of borscht, from her Ukrainian grandmother, is dense with root veggies, while the cold soup, from her Jewish grandmother, was slightly sweeter, with a bright sparkle of cooked purple-red beets, boiled egg, and cucumber slices. (cup$5/bowl$7).

Drinks also get their due here. Theres nothing like a trip back in time with the Russian Quaalude, a salute to the 1970s, a blend of vodka, Fratello, and Irish Cream Liqueur ($8).

The various Russian/Polish vodka tastes kept pace with the food, but no trip to Russia would be complete without authentic beef stroganoff. I could live o the stu , the sauce rich with earthy mushrooms and sour cream, the steak chopped, the noodles tender ($20.95). For dessert we polished o a house-made mint sorbet and pastry stu ed with real whipped cream and strawberries. We sat and watched the monsoon storm whip tree branches across the parking lot as Kalina said, I want people to experience my food the way you would in Russia. Slow paced and social, spending time with nice food, nice drink. Its almost sacred, she says. Youre creating memories.

8963 E. Tanque Verde, Suite 210. 520.360.4040. KalinaRestaurant.com.

SINCE 1970, Rosas Mexican Foodhas been dishing out its traditional recipes, long enough to have been visited by Johnny Cash, ZZ Top, and Willie Nelson, and earning its status as a Tucson institution. Tucked away in a strip mall at Fort Lowell and Campbell, Max and I head to a corner table.

I go out to eat food that I either cant cook or will never be able to learn to cook well. And really good Sonoran-style cook-ing, which the Old Pueblo can claim as its own with an air of knowing superiority, falls fl at in my hands. After having eaten Mexican food in New York, California, Texas, and New Mexico, all those meals just made me homesick for the f lavor blends that only happen in Tucson. To me, food that even Phoenicians make a pilgrimage down to sample speaks for

itself. Well, thats Tucson and Mexican eats. And its defi nitely Rosas.

Its a down-home, family-friendly, fi -esta-colored two-room paean to Mexico, including the hand-painted murals by local legend Frank Franklin. All of which gives Rosas some charm and history.

Here, the white corn chips are light and house madenever greasyand their salsa has some fiery kick with a garlicky finish that might make your nostrils fl are, but sets up your palate for the next course. We dip into some creamy guacamole, thick with avocado and a hint of dairy.

Max creates a sampler plate of what he thinks are Rosas standouts: Chile rel-leno, white cheese cocooned in a roasted poblano green pepper (not too spicy) blanketed in yellow cheese, is melt-in-mouth excellent. And their shredded beef tamale was both piquant in fl avor and perfect in texture. Theyre known for their interesting combo plates, and this one, including the mound of carne seca, with its fi laments of well spiced shred-ded beef, caramelized onions and green chile, is all chowed down with a side of serious frijoles. I make short work of my bean-stu ed enchiladas, half covered in red sauce, the other half in their house green-pepper sauce (Ortega style), which registers as ideal on my comfort food meter.

Rosas cooks its dishes with the deft hand of tradition on one side and experience on the other. Their combos run $10-14 a plate. 1750 E. Fort Lowell Road. 520.325.0362. TucsonMexicanRestaurant.com.

True Tucson-meets-Mexican cuisine:Rosas enchiladas (above) and chips, guacamole, and salsa.


YOS H I M AT S U Healthy Japanese Eatery has a food-dojo-meets-Japanese-pop-culture-theme park vibe with a collection of bizarre toys, anime, karate-superhero, and kaiju par-aphernalia peppering the interior. Its all housed in a cavernous building thats been through several incarnations as 24-hour chain diners. A cool edifice with high ceilings, its acoustically one of the best places Ive eaten without the decibel level going into the land of infinite reverb. (How do you say amen in Japanese?).

Since they opened at this location in 2002, Yoshimatsu has been serving healthy Japanese cuisine with a minimum of chemical enhancements. They avoid MSG, use only canola oil, and try to serve organic foods, all while aiming to keep costs down.

My group of four decided to embark on a food adventure by picking a selection of random tastings. We started o with

salted edamame ($3.50) and crispy pan-fried pork gyoza ($5.50). Then Miles insisted, I want the fried squid tentacle roll. Hey, I dont say no to a 9-year-old wanting to eat something Id be afraid to run into in the dark. So, along came thesquid, itsprotruding chewy append-ages wrapped in sticky rice with a hint of smoky and spicy ($4). Miles face lit up, so his younger brother Ian tried two pieces, though he preferred the karaage fried chickenthink, Japanese popcorn tenders. ($6.50).

The spicy tuna roll ($5) was perfect-ly Srirachad and complemented the warmed, bitter Sake ($4) while the veg-etarian merry-go-round rolla mlange of mizuna, asparagus, yamagobo, sweet egg, nori, and cream cheese all dipped in tempura and fried, was some dense real estate packed in an epically-sized vegetarian roll ($9.00).We also ordered a small bowl of vegetable yakisoba

(buckwheat noodles), ($3.95) cooked just right, that had a nutty sesame flavor and a pleasing al dente feel.

With Japanese food, its all about the subtlety of the flavors and the dipping sauces that give contrast. Yoshimatsus menu is extensive and their food has a homemade feel. And I cannot get enough of the cultural toucheslike the glass cabinet holding elaborate plastic food replicas, called sampuru, once used as home decorations until restaurants in Tokyo began installing them to attract customers.

Yoshimatsu is a full service restaurant, but Sushimatsu, their sushi restaurant, is in a separate dining room in backyou can order off that menu in the main dining room. We came while it was still happy hour (5-7 p.m.), when appetizers and drinks are discounted. And theres a nifty gift shop. 2660 N. Campbell Ave. 520.320.1574. Yoshimatsuaz.com.

Yoshimatsus edamame and crispy pan-ied pork gyoza.


EVENTS

DO N T M I S S Arizonas nuttiest family fun, the Seventh Annual Sahuarita Pecan Festival on Nov. 14 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Started in 2009 with 10,000 visitors, the festival now attracts 20,000 people to this old time country fair with an agricultural vibe. Think pony rides, tractors, and live animals mixed up with some modern kid-friendly bouncy houses, bungee jumping, and rock wall climbing. Theres enough stimulation to get you just tired enough to fi ll up on choice grub from food vendors all across the Santa Cruz Valley. The hayride is a $3 charity event that delivers you to the pecan orchardsall proceeds go to the Community Food Bank of Southern Arizona. Theres even a pecan pie contest (registration forms can be picked up at Mamas Hawaiian Barbecue in Sahuarita or online). 520.329.5790. Visit SahuaritaPecanFestival.com.

For the fi rst time, the Celebration of

Basketry and Native Foods Festival & Symposium is open to the public. Join indigenous cooks, chefs, farmers, scholars, artists, nutritionists, historians, seed savers, and basket weavers in celebrating the vitality of indigenous people, land, and food. On Thursday, Nov. 12, and Friday, Nov. 13, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., head to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum for hands-on basket weaving workshops, chef demonstrations and tastings, traditional agricultural practices, and a tasting lunch featuring indigenous foods prepared by guest chefs. Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. 2021 N. Kinney Road. 520.883.1380. DesertMuseum.org.

In January 2016, one of my favorite

local eateries, Roma Imports, is adding World Food Lunch Specials to its already deep menu. Theyll be featuring three options daily, cooking up specialty dishes from Germany, Greece, India, El Savador, Hungary, and other parts of the globe. Their restaurant and store is the best-known well-kept secret in Tucson. 627 S. Vine Ave. 520.792.3173. Check our their menus and specials at RomaImports.com.

Laura Greenberg is a Tucson writer. Email [email protected] with informationabout new eats.

THER E AR E some days that only pasta will do. And preferably the delicate kind kneaded with eggs and fl our and rolled out by hand. So when that kind of mood strikes, I head to Tavolino Ristorante with my mom, who appreciates anything she doesnt have to cook (hey, she burns water).

I love their space, large with vintage family black and white photographs, enormous windows, plenty of light, and upmarket without pretension.

We were doing lunch fam-ily style, and tried the beet ravioli ($14), the Bolognese lasagna ($12), the chicken cannelloni ($14), and a salad of burrata, toma-toes, prosciutto, and basil strands.

Like an answered prayer, all the pas-tas were thin and made from scratch. Their traditional Bolognese lasagna in tomato sauce is airy and light, the kind that you walk away from hav-ing eaten every bite but dont feel

weighted down ($12). The cannelloni is a tube of

handmade dough, with a fresh blend of spinach, ricotta, smoked mozzarella, and pulled rotisserie chicken, showered in red sauce ($14). And the beet ravioli, again, a purple pasta square, stu ed with goat cheese, with just the right amount of chew, with marinara on top. (Me and tomatoes are going steady).

They have a cheese guy and he is very, very good. Their burrata is fresh mozzarella with real cream hiding out, kind of like a cheese piata, with my mouth as the bat.

The chef and owner, Massimo Tenino, pays tribute to the rustic Northern

Italian recipes taught him by his mother and grand-

mother. And in paying homage to family, he stocks plenty of wines from his brothers

vineyard in Italy, as well as a full bar. Tavolinos is a

full-scale authentic Italian eatery, from

just-charred wood burn-ing pizzas to rotisserie meats

to house-made pasta dishes. And check out their happy hour

menuits a joyful salute to Italy. 2890 E. Skyline Drive. 520.531.1913.

TavolinoRistorante.com.

Right: Tavolinos salad of burrata, tomatoes, prosciutto, and basil strands. Below: Beet ravioli and chicken cannelloni om Tavolino.


1234

The PlateThe The The PlatePlatePlatethePlate

4 3

1 2

Photography by Isadora Lassance

The spiciest thing they should never take off the menu.

Boca TacosRoasted Habanero SalsaSalsa selections rotate daily. A scoop of the roasted habanero salsa will turn your carne asada tacos into another experience entirely. Order with a side of chips or grab one of their custom-made salsa jars to continue the torture at home. Chips and salsa, $4.50; small jar of salsa, $5.95.828 E. Speedway Blvd.

Jun DynastyStew in TongueNumbing Flaming Chile Oil over CabbageThe title alone should make beads of sweat pop on your forehead. Choose from tofu, chicken, pork, beef, or fi sh. The broth comes loaded with so many peppercorns that food will be tasting spicy long after you fi nish the stew. $12.95. 2933 E. Grant Road

Poco and MomsNew Mexico Style Hatch Green Chile Enchiladas A spice you wont soon forget. Served fl at, these enchiladas come layered with cheese, corn tortillas, and Poco and Moms signature freshand spicyHatch green chile enchilada sauce. $9.99 for cheese; $10.99 with meat. 1060 S. Kolb Road

Sher-E-PunjabChicken Tikka MasalaThis spicy curry dish is made with tender pieces of chicken cooked in the tandoortypically, a cylindrical clay or metal oven heated by charcoaland simmered in masala sauce. Its defi nitely not a dry heat. $9.75. 853 E. Grant Road


[EDIBLE HOMESTEAD]


[EDIBLE HOMESTEAD][EDIBLE HOMESTEAD][EDIBLE HOMESTEAD][EDIBLE HOMESTEAD]

In Baja Arizona, we have the privilege of being able to grow an extraordinary array of fruits and veggies at home. In addition to what we can grow in our garden beds and the citrus or g trees that frequent our landscapes, many newcomers are surprised to learn that we can also grow peaches, apples, pears, cherries, plums, nectarines, apricots, almonds, quince, and persimmon, too.

Its often assumed that our summers and winters are both too warm to keep deciduous fruit trees happy. Its true that our cultivar choices seem limited when compared with cooler climates (especially in the warmest areas of Baja Arizona) but there are still a good many fruit and nut trees that really thrive here.

The very rst step to a bountiful harvest from your own home orchard is to research the number of chill hours your area gets every year. Knowing this magic number will help you select cultivars that are genetically inclined to grow well in your climate. After you plant your trees, knowing how many chill hours you get throughout the season will give you good clues about what to expect from your tree come springtime, and what to watch and plan for over the next year.

Whenever discussing fruit trees with customers or clients, this point of the conversation brings up a lot of questions: What are chill hours, and whats the di erence between chill

Chilling OutUnderstanding chill hours for deciduous fruit trees.

By Amy Belk | Illustrations by Danny Martin

[E.H.][E.H.][E.H.]


hours and cold hardiness? Why does a plant need a certain number of chill hours if its hardy enough for my area? Why does one variety need more chill hours than another? If my house gets more chill hours than a cultivar needs, then that cultivar should do ne here, right?

Chill hours can be confusing to discuss because even the experts arent in complete agreement about what they are. The quick and dirty de nition is that theyre the cumulative number of hours that a tree spends resting during its dormant

period. Calculating chill hours can be a bit befuddling,

but well get into that later. First, lets look at why chill hours are so

important.

Whats happening within a treewhen it goes dormant?

As temperatures begin to cool and days become shorter in fall, deciduous trees prepare for dormancy by slowing production of growth-promoting hormones, and growth-inhibiting hormones begin to build up instead. Leaves change colors as chlorophyll breaks down, and their yellow, orange, or red pigments become more visible. Eventually, the growth-inhibiting hormones take over, and leaves are shed to conserve water when the tree goes dormant. In the warmest areas of Baja Arizona, its sometimes necessary to water sparingly in fall to help coax deciduous trees into taking a break.

Plants are much hardier to the cold once theyre resting, and shutting down many of their normal functions helps conserve energy while they protect themselves through winter. Fruit trees can tolerate extremely low temperatures while dormant, but cultivars vary in how long they like to slumber.

It takes a speci c number of accumulated chill hours, longer day lengths, and warmer

temperatures for a deciduous fruit tree to begin growing normally

again. If one or more of these factors isnt quite right, it will be di cult or impossible for

some trees to wake up. It may seem odd that a plant

should need a designated amount of cold weather in order to break

dormancy, but this requirement is important because it keeps the tree from resuming growth during any random winter

warm spell. Such growth would certainly be damaged when normal winter temperatures

[E.H.][E.H.][E.H.]


returned, resulting in wasted energy, high stress, and multiple pathways for disease, fungus, or insect infestation where branch tips were damaged.

Its best to choose cultivars that need the same number of chill hours that your area gets. If minimum chill requirements arent met (winter is too short) then owering and leaf break may be prevented or delayed, quality and quantity of fruit is often reduced, and the tree may produce excessive suckers or show other signs of stress. If you get more chill hours than a tree requires, theres a risk that it will begin growing or owering before the nal cold snaps are over.

Tracking Chill HoursOnce a tree is dormant, some scientists believe, the

growth inhibiting hormones built up within the tree are slowly broken down throughout the winter, primarily when the thermometer reads between 32 and 55 degrees. However, chilling e ectiveness varies with temperature. Research has found that the most e ective chilling occurs between 32 and 45 degrees, and sustained warm temperatures can negate chill hours that have accumulated in the last 36 hours. Unfortunately, it seems like the more we learn about chill hours, the more confusing it gets.

The roughest method to track chill hours has us simply tally the number of hours below 45

degrees that occur while the tree is dormant.

Temperatures dont have to remain

continuously below 45 degrees to count,

but studies have shown that plant processes are ridiculously slow when

temperatures drop below 32 degrees, so many growers count only the number of hours spent between

32 and 45 degrees. As a home grower, I can say thats about as detailed as Ive ever had to get with tracking chill hours. Growers in areas that experience high uctuations in temperature are more frequently looking to a dynamic model that counts chill portions over a longer time frame rather than just chill hours while dormant.

Of course, the fastest and easiest way to nd out about chill hours in your area is to contact the nearest county extension o ce or your local master gardeners. Theres a good chance that someone has already recorded and published this information for public useand its also likely that these same sources can provide you with a list of speci c fruit tree cultivars that do well in your area.

Amy Belk is a garden writer and photographer, a certi ed arborist, and a certi ed nursery professional who has been learning from her garden for 15 years. She and her husband homestead on a little piece of the desert in the heart of Tucson.

WHAT TO PLANTEven the very highest elevations in Baja Arizona can

still plant onionsonions in November and December, either by seed or by sets. The rest of us can also plant asparagusasparagus, beetsbeets, carrotscarrots, Swiss chardSwiss chard, leaf lettuceleaf lettuce, greengreen and bunchingbunching onionsonions, parsleyparsley, radishradish, rutabagarutabaga, spinachspinach, and turnipturnip.

In the warmer zones, head lettucehead lettuce should be planted by mid-November. CabbageCabbage, cauli owercauli ower, collardscollards, and endiveendive should be planted by the rst of December, and then leekleek and mustardmustard by the middle of that month. by the middle of that month. CabbageCabbage seedseed can be planted until mid-November if can be planted until mid-November if youre below 1,000 feet elevation, and until the beginning of December above 1,000 feet. All but the very warmest zones can plant parsnipparsnip.

GarlicGarlic, kalekale, and kohlrabikohlrabi can be still be planted this time of year, but get them in before the rst of December if you live below 2,000 feet elevation. (Tucsons airport is 2,640 feet.)

If youre between 2,000 and 3,000 feet elevation, you can plant horseradishhorseradish, rhubarbrhubarb, and salsify salsify in ad-dition to everything in the previous paragraphs. Spring Spring peaspeas can be planted only in the sweet spots between 1,000 and 2,000 feet elevation until mid-December.

BroccoliBroccoli and Brussels sproutsBrussels sprouts can still be planted in the warmest regions (below 2,000 feet elevation), but have them planted by Dec. 1 if youre in the 1,000 to 2,000 feet range.

Only the lowest elevations of Baja Arizona (below 1,000 feet) will be warm enough to plant pepperpepperand tomatotomato (by seed), potatopotato, and then cantaloupecantaloupe, cucumbercucumber, muskmelonmuskmelon after Dec. 1. After around the 15th, it will likely be warm enough to plant summer summer squashsquash and watermelonwatermelon, too.


WINTERIZING CITRUSBy Tony Sarah

As cold weatherAs cold weatherA arrives, what can you do to protect your citrus from the coming freezes? Aprotect your citrus from the coming freezes? A The rst step is to harden o your trees by reducing how often you water. This will slow down their growth resulting in thicker stems that are better able to cope with freezing temperatures.

When freezing temperatures do arrive, protect your trees by watering them the day before up to the evening of the freeze. The added moisture releases latent heat as the temperature drops, helping to keep the trees warm. Covering your trees with frost cloth will also aid in protecting your plants. Make sure the blankets reach protecting your plants. Make sure the blankets reach the ground, if possible, and that the corners are secured to prevent the blanket from blowing away in the wind. Adding old Christmas tree lights, or any other type of heat-emitting light, will add more protection.

If the temperature is expected to be at or below 28 degrees for more than three hours, add additional frost blankets or consider leaving the water running at a slow drip overnight.

Citrus vary in cold hardiness. Lime trees are the most sensitive, withstanding temperatures only to 32; lemons are typically hardy to 30, except the Meyer lemon, which is hardy to 26. Grapefruit are hardy to 28. Mandarin oranges, better known as tangerines, are hardy down to 26, with satsuma mandarins hardy to 24. However, mandarin fruit is damaged at 28, especially if exposed for prolonged periods of time. Sweet oranges are hardy to prolonged periods of time. Sweet oranges are hardy to 26, and their fruit to 27. Tangelos are hardy to between 26 to 28. Kumquats are the hardiest, all the way down to the upper teens.

Harvesting your citrus fruit when it is ripe will also help protect it from the freeze. Citrus fruit does not continue to protect it from the freeze. Citrus fruit does not continue to ripen o the tree, so harvesting early will not help.

Stone fruits, such as peach, apple, pear, and plum, not only like the cold, requiring no frost protection, they also actually need a certain amount of chill hours to produce owers. produce owers.

So remember, although your citrus fruit may love a little winter chill to sweeten them up, anything more than a kiss without your protection, their heart will turn heart will turn heartto ice.

Tony Sarah is a UA graduate in horticulture with 34 years of experience in the Tucson 34 years of experience in the Tucson nursery and landscape business.

[E.H.]


[E.H.][E.H.]

Half BakedExploring Arizonas home baked goods program.

By Laura Greenberg | Illustrations by Danny Martin

If I get to come back in another life, I want to be born and raised in a bakery. Bread, cookies, cakes, barsall have a soft spot in my soul and my kitchen. It started years ago when I worked at a restaurant and churned out about 35 cheesecakes a week, in assorted avors. Lately Ive been on an Eastern European baking binge and wondered: If I wanted to go all street legal, how could I sell the good grub?

Then I discovered the Arizona Home Baked Goods Program (AHBGP). Whether your moniker is the Cookie Lady or Grandma Cookie or High School Bake Sale Supplier, anyone with a hankering to release their inner pastry chef can join. If youre a Pima County resident you need to attend the food handlers 4.5-hour certi cation class and pass their test. There are assorted rules and regulations that need following, nothing overwhelming, depending on your county of residence. All are neatly laid out at their website. As of May 2015, more than 4,000 people were registered with the AHBGP.

Tim Keene, the market manager at Food In Root farmers markets, says he looks for bakers who o er something di erent or present a local spin. Thats how baker Nadira Jenkinslong a chef specializing in vegan and vegetarian cuisinefound her sweet spot. A recent Tucson transplant, she was having a hard time nding a commercial kitchen when she stumbled across the AHBGP and shortly after started her business, Home Baked Goods by Global Fusion.

With an emphasis on gluten-free, vegan, and no-re ned-sugar desserts, shes now in business selling her pecan bars, banana-lemon bars, cashew protein bars, fruit- lled empanadas, and assorted cookies at several of Food In Roots farmers markets. She also has her sweet treats in the Ajo location of New Life Health Center. Jenkins practiced until she felt con dent her textures were similar to normal desserts before she went commercial.

For Maureen Octavio, her goals were more personal. When she originally moved to Rio Rico from Hawaii,


she just wanted to get out and meet people. So, as an experienced home baker, she teamed up with her daughter and created A Taste of the Islands. She specializes in both banana-walnut and mango breads while her daughter bakes mini loaves in pineapple-coconut, blueberry, and other avors. They sell at the local Green Valley farmers market as well as FoodInRoots University Medical Center and St. Philips Plaza locations.

The mother-daughter teams busy season hits in fall. Then, Maureen sells about 50 loaves of her banana-walnut and mango loaves a week. Her daughter sells closer to 100 mini sweet breads a week, along with cookies and biscotti. The extra money her daughter earns is enough to pay for her familys grocery bills.

But the local rock star of the home baking movement is bread guru Don Guerra of Barrio Bread. He manages to produce 800 loaves a month of hand-shaped, artisanal breads selling out to his ardent fans within an hour of putting them up for sale online early Friday mornings.

Hes pushed the home baking program to a new level with a vertical business model that is more for the professional than the average at-home cookie meister. Hell explain that originally the home program was for people with disabilities who needed to be able to earn extra to cover bills.

Guerra makes bread employing ancient long and slow sourdough fermentation and hearth baking. But his business model is more entrepreneurial. You have to register to buy his bread on his website, and after ordering, you can pick them up at certain times and locations. He produces nothing that isnt already sold before he leaves his house.

Guerra believes in the community supported

baker approach, which allows him to produce elite quality nutritional bread, sell it, teach classes on it, and assist others in creating their own baking dreams. Working out of his garage, hes the new food entrepreneur in a very old business. He says about the AHBGP that its far easier to lay out even a hefty $50,000 to start a baking business from home than to get involved in a ve-year brick-and-mortar lease, and a build-out of closer to $250,000.

So whether you just want to commune with other foodies, earn some extra cash, or perhaps end up with a full-blown business out of your garage, the home baking program has a place for you.

Visit Azdhs.gov/phs/oeh/fses/goods.

Laura Greenberg is a Tucson writer.


Kitchen 101Text and Photography by Shelby Thompson

Fresh, local ingredients makethe best traditional

and vegan pies.

Pie is not only a holiday tradition, but an American tradition at its nest. With endless sweet and savory varieties, pie has long been the perfect way for bakers to show o the seasons bounty and to showcase and celebrate the local harvest.

TRADITIONAL PIEAn apple pie enclosed in a rich, aky crust and lled

with sweet, warm apples is enough to summon memories long forgotten. Using (almost) all local ingredients for this years holiday pie will make your crust taste richer and your apples taste even sweeter.

ButterWhile its easy to buy a pound of butter at the grocery

store, its almost as easy (and far more rewarding) to make it at home. The creamy freshness of homemade butter is palpable, and will undoubtedly enhance the avor and texture of your pie crust. You dont even need heavy equipment, just a sturdy Mason jar and a strong arm.

Ingredients:1 quart local heavy cream(I used Danzeisen Dairy heavy cream)

Pour 1 quart local heavy cream into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, or into a large wide-mouth Mason jar with lid. If using the mixer, lower the whisk into the bowl and turn the mixer on to its lowest speed. Slowly increase the speed of the mixer until it reaches its maximum speed. After 2 - 3 minutes, the cream will turn into whipped cream. Keep whipping, for another 8 - 10 minutes, until the contents of the bowl have separated into two consistencies: thick yellow butter and milky liquid (buttermilk).

Pour the buttermilk out of the bowl, ensuring that there is as little buttermilk left as possible. (Buttermilk can be saved to use in pancakes, salad dressing, and mu ns.) Put the butter (sans buttermilk) into an airtight container and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Remove the butter from the fridge and remove any more buttermilk that has separated from the butter. At this point, the butter is ready to be used in the pie dough recipe.

Note: if you are planning to keep the butter for a longer period of time, it will need to be rinsed of any lingering buttermilk to prevent spoiling.

If you are using a Mason jar, pour the heavy cream into the Mason jar. Shake the heavy cream in the lidded jar until the butter separates from the buttermilk (about 15 minutes). Proceed the same way you would if you had used a stand mixer.


Basic Pie DoughAs simple as the ingredients for pie dough appear to be, it can be

di cult to achieve a dough that is aky, light, and delectable. High quality ingredients and good technique are essential for creating the perfect pie crust.

Ingredients: 2 cups pastry our (I used Hayden Mills Type 00 our) 2 tablespoons cane sugar 1 teaspoons salt 1 cup very cold butter, cut into small pieces (approximately

one half of the recipe for home-made butter) 8 tablespoons ice-cold water

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together our, cane sugar, and salt. Add the pieces of butter to the bowl. Using a pastry blender or large fork, cut the butter into the our mixture until the bowl consists only of pea-sized pieces of the our/butter mixture.

Evenly sprinkle half of the ice-cold water into the mixture and continue to combine the mixture with a fork or a pastry blender for another 30-60 seconds, or until the mixture begins to form a large mass of dough. Sprinkle the rest of the water into the bowl and continue to mix until the mixture forms a smooth, large mass.

Divide the dough into two rounds and wrap each individual round with plastic wrap. Store the wrapped dough in the fridge for at least two hours, or until it is very cold.

Cinnamon Apple Pie

Ingredients: Pie dough 3 pounds local, organic apples, peeled and thinly sliced cup local honey tablespoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons our, plus extra for rolling out the pie dough

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Remove the pie dough from the refrigerator 10 minutes before you begin working with it. In a large bowl, toss sliced apples, honey, cinnamon, and our together with a large spoon. Liberally sprinkle our on a wide, clean surface. Place one round of dough onto the oured surface and use a rolling pin to roll the dough into a large circle, about -inch thick. The dough will initially be di cult to shape, but will become more manageable as it warms to room temperature.

Fit the sheet of rolled dough into the bottom of a 9-inch pie plate, using your hand to gently press the dough into the corners of the plate. Make sure to leave about an inch of dough hanging over the lip of the pie plate. Fill the pie with the apple mixture. Roll out the second round of dough in the same manner that you rolled the rst round. Lightly drape the rolled dough on top of the apples in the pie plate, leaving an extra inch of dough around the sides. Pinch together the edges of the top and bottom pieces of pie dough to create a strong seal. Poke a few holes in the top of the pie so that air can escape. Feel free to make a pretty design.

Bake the pie at 425 degrees for 25 minutes. Lower the temperature to 375 degrees and bake for another 30-35 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and the apples are bubbling. Let the pie cool for 3-4 hours to allow it to set.


VEGAN PIEFree of butter, our, and sugar, vegan pies rely

on produce that is fresh and in season. Almost all of the ingredients for vegan pies can be found abundantly at farmers markets around town.

Basic Vegan Pie DoughVegan pie dough does not get baked in the

oven. In fact, its two basic ingredients, nuts and fresh dates, need only to be processed together to create a sweet, nutty, and crunchy pie crust that stands up to almost any lling. A vegan pie made with this dough is the perfect way to please anyone with a sweet tooth and an appreciation for seasonal produce.

Ingredients: 1 cup raw walnuts 1 cup raw pecans cup shredded unsweetened coconut teaspoon sea salt teaspoon cinnamon 1 cups pitted fresh medjool dates 2 teaspoons melted coconut oil

Add nuts to the bowl of a food processor. Pulse the nuts, shredded coconut, sea salt, and cinnamon together until they reach the consistency of rough our. Add dates and coconut oil to the bowl and process on high speed until all ingredients are evenly combined. Firmly press the dough into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round pie plate. Refrigerate the dough for at least two hours.

Vegan Pumpkin Pie

Ingredients:Basic vegan pie dough 3 cups cooked, pureed pumpkin esh

(fresh or canned) 1 cup pitted medjool dates 2 tablespoons honey or maple syrup 2 tablespoons melted coconut oil 2 tablespoons cinnamon

Add all ingredients to a blender. Blend on high until the mixture reaches a smooth consistency. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the refrigerated vegan pie crust and distribute it evenly. Refrigerate for at least two hours before serving.

Shelby Thompson practices yoga, hikes with her black lab Cola, and cooks. Her blog thesunandthespoon.com provides nutritious, plant-based recipes.


We are in the middle of an El Nio interval that many meteorologists believe to be the strongest in decades. This year, El Nio brought drought to many areas of the country, but Baja Arizona enjoyed relatively wet and temperate weather. More unusual weather is expected at the end of 2015 and early 2016. But even favorable weather conditions can have unexpected consequences in agriculture. This year a warm and wet spring led to an early infestation of cucumber beetles that plagued many farms in the region. Growing a wide variety of produce and planting each crop in succession can help farmers ensure a constant supply of produce for market, even if they cant foresee every crisis.

Produce farmers arent the only ones a ected by unusual weather. Alethea Swift from Fiore de Capra Goat Dairy

and Creamery says they are expecting their rst batch of kids early this season. Our goats usually come into heat when the monsoons start. Because of an early monsoon season, our rst baby goats will start arriving in December, she says. Since goats take a break from milking during the kidding season, farms keep production up by staggering breeding. This allows them to have a continuous supply of milk while ensuring that each goat gets a break from milking. A continuous supply of milk means a continuous supply of cheesegood news for farmers market shoppers. Customers love our sun-dried tomato and pesto torte. Together with a baguette it is an easy party food, says Swift. At their booth at the Sunday Heirloom Farmers Market at Rillito Park, nd goats milk and cheeses as well as specialty items like chvre an, tru es, and goats milk caramels.

FARM REPORTWhats in season in Baja Arizona.

By Sara Jones | Photography by Liora K

Fiore di Capras herbed goat cheese.

Sunday, November 22, 9am 12pm,WMGs LIVING LAB: 1137 N Dodge Blvd

Come celebrate the delicious shade of mesquite, pomegranate, olive, and other edible native and desert-adapted trees. Enjoy live music, an artisan market, and educational presentations as you explore sustainability practices in action at WMGs Living Lab and Learning Center. Bring the whole familyand come hungry for a tasty Tucson

tradition with the Mesquite Pancake Breakfast!

You can have yourhadeand eat it too!

Edible Shade

RSVP and invite your friends at facebook.com/watershedmg/events

MESQUITE PANCAKE BREAKFAST

Thanks to our sponsors:

Skip the ticket line! Pre-pay for pancakes at watershedmg.org/pancakes


In fall, farmers are watching the weather for signs of frost. The average rst frost on most farms in our region is in November, though it is usually possible to nd warm weather produce like tomatoes and peppers at the market in December. Farmers protect these crops from the cold with row covers and strategic irrigation, insulating them from light frosts. If a hard freeze is expected, farmers with tomatoes left in the eld will usually harvest them green. These end-of-season tomatoes can be left to ripen on the countertop. They also make an excellent tangy tomato sauce.

As the last of the summer produce disappears, leafy greens become more prevalent. Many farms o er a variety of baby greens, which are small and tender and milder than the full-grown leaves. These baby greens are perfect for salads. Quick-growing radishes are also one of the rst signs of the winter season at farmers markets. A variety of winter squash in all shapes and sizes is available, as well as potatoes and sweet potatoes. Apples are still plentiful and citrus begins to appear. Soon markets will be ooded with all sorts of roots and greens that thrive during the winter months.

Winter wheat is another crop that does well in the mild winters of Baja Arizona. White Sonora wheat is the oldest wheat in the Americas, brought to the Sonoran Desert by Padre Eusebio Kino. Oodham people, skilled at desert irrigation, adapted the wheat to grow in the mild Southern Arizona winters, says Terry Button of Ramona Farms. This ancient wheat was once an important crop for the region. After near extinction, it is making a comeback with the help of Native Seeds/SEARCH and local farmers like Terry and his wife, Ramona. The crop is planted between Thanksgiving and New Year when conditions are just right. Sometime in May or June we harvest the wheat, once the moisture content in the kernels is low enough, he says. Ramona Farms wheat and pinole (roasted wheat our) are available at the Flor de Mayo market stand at the Sunday FoodInRoot Farmers Market at St. Philips Plaza as well as at Native Seeds/SEARCH and Whole Foods. You can also taste the wheat in the pappardelle pasta dish at Ermanos Craft Beer and Wine Bar.

FALL SALAD

You could use lettuce for this salad, but the texture and avor of greens like kale or mustard will work better with the other ingredients. No need to remove the skin on small squash like acorn or delicata, but larger squash should be peeled before roasting.

Ingredients: 1 cup wheat berries Several cups loosely packed greens,

washed, dried, and chopped 1 acorn squash cup toasted pecans or pistachios, chopped 2 apples, peeled and diced cup citrus juice 1 tablespoon honey or agave syrup 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Chile powder Crumbled goat cheese

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Slice squash into -inch wedges. Drizzle lightly with oil, sprinkle with chile powder, and toss to coat. Spread squash in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake for 20-30 minutes, until tender and beginning to caramelize around edges. Let cool. While squash is roasting, cook wheat berries in a medium pot in at least one quart of water. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to simmer and cook for 30-45 minutes, until cooked through (wheat berries will remain somewhat chewy). Drain and set aside. Mix together juice, honey, vinegar, oil, and salt and pepper. Pour about half of the mixture over wheat berries while they are still warm. Mix well. Dice cooked squash into bite-size pieces, mix together with apples and greens and season with remaining dressing. In a large bowl, combine wheat berries and veggies and top with cheese and nuts to serve.

Sara Jones is a longtime employee of the Tucson CSA.

White Sonora wheat pasta. Spicy arugula.

You opened the rst Diablo Burger in Flagsta in 2009. Howd it begin?I was running Diablo Trust, a ranching-based nonprofit con-servation group. It was housed at NAU [Northern Arizona University]. Gary Nabhan was at NAU at the time and brought these guys down from Idaho from a group called Lava Lake Lamb. They had a nonprofit like ours and, like ours, they were having trouble making ends meet. They were raising lamb and they started selling their lamb products at local, high-end restaurants; they found that as the sales of the lamb went up, the appreciation for their conservation work went up. That was the lightbulb moment for Diablo Burger.

When people realize that what theyre feeding themselves and their families comes from the local community instead of just a shelf in the supermarket ... there is an awareness that having that land remain open and undeveloped and home to food production and wildlife and carbon sequestration and water storage is valuable to the community. That work of communicating the value of land stewardship, thats the work of Diablo Trust. And food tells that story maybe in the most powerful way.

What were some early challenges in opening Diablo Burger?From Day 1, we said 100 percent of the beef that we would serve would be local, sustainably grown, a product of this land-scape-scale stewardship. Why isnt there a Diablo Burger in every town in the West? The answer is infrastructure. As soon as we started doing this, we realized that the infrastructure for a local-foods-based burger jointprocessing, storage, transpor-tationdidnt exist. It would have been a dealbreaker for me,

except I had a relationship with these ranches already, and they saw the value in taking the leap into an infrastructure-less place.

In that absence of that infrastructure, we had to create it. We invested our first $20,000 of income in an o-site freezer area. The ranches looked for a processing facility that would do 50 animals at once on a custom basis. The tragedy of it in Arizona, where beef is the largest cash commodity, is that there is not a single facility in this state that will do that. Since 2009, we have done all of our processing in Colorado, at a family-owned facility.

Its a model that requires trust between the producer, the ranches of the Diablo Trust, and the restaurant.

Beyond beef, how else are you supporting local producers?We said, Day 1 all beef will be 100 percent sourced locally. And were going to incrementalize on everything else. Ive been pleasantly surprised at how quickly weve scaled up. With the exception of a few products, everything is local. As more people see that its viable, more people want to be a part of it. Restaurants want to work together.

Its a challenge for any business that wants to source locally. Theres an absence of economy of scale, absence of vertical integration. Its really only over time and through relationships that require personal investment.

For example, Aaron Cardona [at Arevalos Farm] and I have been talking about this for the past six months. At Diablo Burger, we use a ton of green chilies; we would love to have a single local

IN THE BUSINESS

Conservation BurgerAt downtown Tucsons Diablo Burger and Good Oak Bar, Derrick Widmark is

building inastructure for local foodone burger at a time.

Interview and Photography by Megan Kimble

Derrick Widmark opened his second Diablo Burger location on Congress Street in downtown Tucson in 2013.


source, so [we said]: We are interested in investing in this kind of solution with you. His model is: I would like to grow this crop and get paid 100 percent at the time of delivery. And our model is: We want to meet with you halfway and pay a certain amount at seeding, at delivery, and as we use it. Its an interesting conversation. Its an example of how you have to have to figure these things out together so that there is a shared comfort level, risk, and benefit.

e average Diablo Burger costs $9. What feedback do you get om your customers about the price?One of the reasons that Diablo Burger is a burger joint rather than a steakhouse is that I personally was turned o by the idea that local food had to be exclusive. The reality is that we are in a national and global context of all food costs going up because fewer and fewer people are growing food for more and more people. The cost of commodity food is artificially low and going up. The cost of what I call artisanal food is organically high and going down. Its a question not of price but of value.

And yet, we live in an economic context of 99 percent of the population living hand to mouth. Making a decision on a value rather than a price-point comparison is not always feasible. But I have had families with kids come to me and say, The dierence between spending $47 for a family of four eating at Diablo Burger versus $39 for a family of four eating at McDonalds is a comparison that deeply favors spending the extra $8 here.

We fight this fight for the right reasonsfor the good of the greater community, not just the good of that small percentage of the population who are price insensitive when it comes to feeding themselves. It needs to be inclusive, accessible. It needs to make sense to someone who is counting pennies.

What would you like to see change or grow in local food?Connecting local supply and demand is the end goal. If Diablo Burger can show that the local community would rather eat local beef than commodity beef, [hopefully] somebody with greater capacity and deeper pockets would say, we need to have a local processing facility. I want to demonstrate that local supply and demand can be connected, and connected with greater eciency.

I think you help create that connection through public/private partnerships. You say, If we had a processing facility here in Pima County, it would create X number of jobs, it would connect local supply with local demand. There would be this economic multiplier eect of forging those connections. That takes vision and courage.

The reality is also that things are changing. These problems that were up against in Arizona are problems that are true across the country. Were all trying to figure them out. Diablo Burger is in our seventh year, and in that time so much has changed in terms of awareness, interest, language. The value of trying to do it, struggling to do it, is in these little microsteps forward. Again, compared to the eciencies and numbers in the commodity market, its a drop in the bucket. But the drops add up over time. We want to nudge the world, one local food meal at a time.

Diablo Burger. 312 E. Congress St. 520.882.2007. DiabloBurger.com.

Megan Kimble is the managing editor of Edible Baja Arizona and the author of Unprocessed: My City-Dwelling Year of Reclaiming Real Food.

Diablo Burgers Seor Smoke burger comes with ancho grilled onions, grilled avocado, bacon, cilantro, and sriracha mayo.



LOCAL

Local Girl Goes Local

Kate ate local foodand only local foodfor 30 days. Heres how it went.

By Kate Selby | Illustrations by Katya Granger

ARE THEY ALL going to fit?Five weeks ago, my husband, Chad, and I were staring at the three local chickens wed purchased from the Double Check Ranch at the farmers market for that nights family potluck dinner. My extended family had all volunteered to cook 100 percent local (or as close to it as possible) for this dinner, since I was in the middle of a 30-day challenge to avoid any food not sourced within 250 miles of Tucson. Knowing that they would balk at the idea of paying $20 for an uncooked bird, I had signed us up to provide two roast chickens. The third chicken was for later that week. We were trying to cook all three at once in pursuit of every desert-dwellers summer goal: to turn on our stove the absolute minimum number of times.

We managed to squeeze all three chickens into the oven with an inch to spare. I turned my attention back to the local cauliflower and butternut squash arrayed on our countertop. A bag of Hayden Flour Mills dry polenta waited patiently in line. The roasted tomatoes, prepped ear-lier that afternoon, were cooling on the stovetop, ready to be peeled and added to the now-roasting chickens and onions. Our

10-month-old daughter had surprised us both by opting for a marathon afternoon nap, and we were taking full advantage of the baby-free time. School was back in session for Chad, in addition to his full-time job, so he studied while I prepped a weeks worth of local food. Of course,

the idyllic afternoon didnt lastthe baby woke and needed to nurse, so Chad gave up on his schoolwork

and took over cooking. We ended up arriving at dinner 45 minutes latebut brought with us two juicy chickens resting on a bed of roasted onions and tomatoes, with some cheesy polenta as a side dish. Except for a little white wine and some pepper, everything had been grown, raised, or harvested in Baja Arizona.

I started Local Girl Goes Local with a simple goal: To eat 100 percent locally sourced food for 30 days. Everything I ate

would need to have been grown or raised within a 250-mile radius of Tucson. Prior to this project, I

had never been to a farmers market. My cooking expertise was somewhere in-between capable of making box mac and cheese fancy with sauted spinach, ham, and sriracha and can throw together a delicious casserole, but dont let her anywhere near a roast. I had always considered eating local to be the

Some foods are so easy to make, youll never want

to buy the premade versions again.

Like beans. And tortillas.

Thing

s You Lear

n Eating 100 percent Local #1

Being able to eat 100 percent

local at a restaurant is equivalent to winning

the lottery. Instead, focus on rewarding

restaurants that make the eort to source local

ingredients.

Things Y

ou

Learn Ea

ting 100 percent Local #2


kind of thing I would love to doemphasis on the wouldbut when the Edible Baja Arizona sta floated the idea at this years editorial retreat, I saw the challenge as an opportunity to finally make the switch to a more deliberate way of eating.

Im happy to announce that I emerged from my 30 days of eating local with both my sanity and my wallet more or less intact. I had expected it to be a lot of work, and I was right: I cannot count how many nights I stayed up until 2 or 3 a.m. in order to find time to work. Part of this was due to the fact that our daughter acquired her third tooth during the 30 days and required extra large helpings of parental attention, and part of it was due to me replacing my work time right after the baby went to sleep with cooking. My routine became focused around food: remembering to put the beans in water to soak at night; getting up in the morning and turning on the crockpot; feeding and stirring my sourdough starter every 12 hours; planning what to cook to last us until the next farmers market or CSA pickup.

And yet, as the project continued, I found myself spending fewer late nights cooking, as I got faster in the kitchen and my stock of pre-prepared local foods increased. My food preparation routine became quite literally routine, and I soon reached the

point where it seemed strange when I didnt have some food maintenance task to perform. By Day 18, eat-

ing local had gotten easiera lot easier. Anyone whos had a baby knows that once you get past the terrifying notion of being responsible for an infant, you accept that the babys needs and moods are just your new normal. I had a similar experience with eating local. Instead of heading to the grocery store whenever we ran out of something or happened to find a gap in our schedules, I designated time for

going to the farmers market, and made sure to go, no matter what. Instead of longing for the foods

that are not part of Baja Arizonas foodshed, I focused on figuring out what I could make from the foods that are.

Most importantly, I allowed eating local to become a way for me to have fun. Getting to know the local food community was

Eating local requires planningbut not as much as

youd think. By keeping common ingredients in

stock and cooking in bulk, I could easily prepare a meal on a

whim.

Thing

s You Lea

rn Eating 100 percent Local #4


an opportunity to talk and relax, not just rush to the checkout line. Cooking was a chance for me to get creative and challenge myself to make something exciting, not just stick with what I knew.

Which brings me to the mil-lion-dollar question. Was I able to eat 100 percent local for 30 days?

Not exactly. I did discover that is it possible to spend a month eat-ing exclusively local food. It is also fairly easy to do so once some basic routines are in place. But I did not manage to totally avoid nonlocal foods. I realized that refusing to eat outside my own house was hardly a realistic portrayal of a well-rounded locally sourced life, so I also ate at Diablo Burger and Zona 78, both restaurants with a commitment to local sourcingbut not necessarily 100 percent. Worse, when my co-baby-wrangler headed out of town for a work conference, the pressure of spending every moment outside of work caring for one tiny human almost dragged me o the wagon with a mere four days left in the challenge. Graze Premium Burgers saved me from eating a meal devoid of local ingredients that nightthey purchase their beef from Double Check Ranchbut it was a significant compromise, given how many ingredients were not sourced locally. In the end, while I cannot say I ate 100 percent local, 100 percent of the time, I can say that for 30 days, every single meal I ate included at least some local ingredients, and that 98 percent of the time, my meals were indeed 100 percent locally sourced.

Was eating local as dicult I expected it would be? Abso-lutely not. Some of my initial assumptions were correct. Eating local is frequently more time-intensive, both when it comes to shopping for food and when it comes to preparing meals; the food from small local farms often costs more than the food from industrial-scale farms; and there are a number of foods that I had previously taken for granted that are basically impossible to find within the Baja

Edible Baja Arizona - November/December 2015

Documents

Transcript of Edible Baja Arizona - November/December 2015