Bioprocessing for Sustainable production of COLoured textiles

ECOECO‐‐INNOVATIONINNOVATION

““Bioprocessing for Sustainable  Production of Coloured TextilesBioprocessing for Sustainable  Production of Coloured Textiles””

BISCOLBISCOLECO/09/256112ECO/09/256112

01/09/2010 01/09/2010 –– 31/08/201331/08/2013

Rebecca Pogni Department of Chemistry – University of  Siena

Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012

website:  www.biscol.unisi.it

Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012

BISCOL Consortium

The Consortium takes advantages from differentexpertises optimized during other research projects:

SOPHIED – IPFP6‐NMP2‐CT‐2004‐505899HIPERMAX‐FP6‐NMP3‐CT‐2003‐505790ITT‐3TNet – Regional projectHITEX – Regional projectINNOVA – Regional project

The reduction of the overall environmental impactof dyeing process will represent a driving force of theproposal according to the experience of the consortium which covers all the steps of the dyeingprocess from the raw material  to the final colouredtextile

BISCOL project is focused on the textile industry proposing a new dyeing process as global alternative  for  the  bioconversion  of  raw  materials  into  competitive  eco‐viable  final products with particular attention to energy saving, reduction in water resource use and  chemical products

1.Textile pre‐treatments 2. Synthesis of new auxiliaries

SO3H

OHNH2 O

NHO3S NH2

OLaccase ( LAC)from Cer r ena unicolor

( CU 355)

2

Curie_22

3. Synthesis of bio‐dyes

4. Optimization of dyeing process 5. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)

Conventional ProcessConventional Process

Biscol ProcessBiscol Process

1 kg1 kgWollen Wollen fabricfabric

1 kg1 kgWollen Wollen fabricfabric

1 kg1 kgColoured fabricColoured fabric

1 kg1 kgColoured fabricColoured fabric

LCA System BoundariesLCA System Boundaries

Process for woollen textilesProcess for woollen textiles

auxiliary

Interaction with fibre dyestuff

Associated dyestuff

Adsorption  Association  Solvation

Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012

LCA Framework

System BoundariesSystem BoundariesProcess for woollen textilesProcess for woollen textiles

Biscol ProcessBiscol ProcessConventional ProcessConventional Process

PrePre‐‐treatmenttreatment

DyeingDyeing

Dyes SynthesisDyes Synthesis

Auxiliaries ProductionAuxiliaries ProductionWaterWaterAcidAcid

New auxiliaryNew auxiliaryBioBio‐‐synthetized Dyestuffsynthetized Dyestuff

EnergyEnergy……

WaterWaterAcidAcid

Traditional auxiliaryTraditional auxiliaryTraditional DyestuffTraditional Dyestuff

EnergyEnergy……..

INPUTINPUT INPUTINPUT OUTPUTOUTPUTOUTPUTOUTPUT

CODCODBODBODCO2CO2……..

CODCODBODBODCO2CO2……..

S1S1

S2S2

S3S3

S4S4

S5S5

S1S1

S2S2

S3S3

S4S4

S5S5

1 kg1 kgWollen fabricWollen fabric

1 kg1 kgWollen fabricWollen fabric

1 kg1 kgColoured fabricColoured fabric

1 kg1 kgColoured fabricColoured fabric

PurgePurge

WashingWashing

DryingDrying

Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012

Comparison of LCA results: Conventional vs Biscol Process

Acceleration of process time

Reduction of temperature         required for textile substrate dyeing

Reduction of water consumption

Objective Indicators Relative Impact Relative Impact Expected

Improved Environmental Performance

Greenhouse Gas Emissions

CO2 ~ 72% 20%

Methane 68‐70% 15‐18%

Air Quality Particulate Matter ~ 70% 5%

Reduction Mutagenic/Carcinogenic ~ 80%

Waste Management Waste Minimization 25%  reduction (total wastewater)

15‐20%

Better Use of Natural Resources

Water  Reduced Consumption 58% 5‐7%

Energy Reduced Consumption 67‐71% 15‐18%

Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012

Comparison of LCA : Conventional vs Biscol ProcessSingle Score

Conventional Conventional ProcessProcess

Ecopoint = 0.819Ecopoint = 0.819

Biscol Process Aux 2Biscol Process Aux 2

Ecopoint = 0.226Ecopoint = 0.226

Biscol Process Aux 1Biscol Process Aux 1

Ecopoint = 0.231Ecopoint = 0.231

LCIA:LCIA: ReCiPeReCiPe Endpoint (H/A) Europe 2008Endpoint (H/A) Europe 2008 *:  the method allows for the calculation of EcopointEcopoint. The aim is to express the total environmental burden total environmental burden of a product or process in a single single scorescore

Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012

Eco Innovators Day, Brussels 8‐9 November 2012

Synthesis of biodyes and new auxiliaries with lower environmental impact

Technical and economical risk: Biobased production process and safer and more effective auxiliaries can be more expensive than the conventional ones

Niche market? The Ecolabel may be used to promote  their market uptake 

Plasma pre‐treatment Technical and economical risk: the irradiative scouring is not good for all the type of textiles. Additional costs induced by the treatment

At a whole the proposed dyeing process may be more expensive than the conventionalone.

Companies could be supported in adopting the new process with specific “eco‐innovation”Funding

A more strict waste legislation to limit the use of chemicals might be helpful