Eco-friendly sizing technology of cotton The Author(s ... · Eco-friendly sizing technology of...

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Original article Eco-friendly sizing technology of cotton yarns with He/O 2 atmospheric pressure plasma treatment and green sizing recipes Shiyuan Sun 1,2,3,4 , Hang Yu 4 , Thomas Williams 4 , Robert F Hicks 4 and Yiping Qiu 1 Abstract In order to avoid using polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), an eco-friendly sizing technology with atmospheric pressure plasma treatment and green sizing recipes has been developed and evaluated with respect to sizing properties and desizing efficiency. The results show that the eco-friendly sizing technology can endow cotton yarn with better sizing properties, including significantly improved size-pick-up, breaking strength, breaking elongation, abrasion resistance and substantially reduced yarn hair, than the traditional sizing technology with the use of PVA. Compared with a typical traditional sizing technology using PVA and modified starch, the optimized eco-friendly sizing technology can impart the yarn an increase of 19.4%, 5.3%, 3.4% and 169.2% for the size-pick-up, breaking strength, breaking elongation and the abrasion resistance time, respectively, and a reduction of 59.3% for the yarn hairiness index value at level 1. The sizing properties can be obviously improved by the atmospheric pressure plasma treatment, which can roughen the fiber surface, etch away the hydrophobic cuticle layer and introduce polar groups. The glycerol in the green sizing recipes can effectively reduce the yarn hairiness and increase size-pick-up and abrasion resistance. The eco-friendly sizing technology has no observable negative influence on desizing of cotton fabrics. Furthermore, a better water diffusion in the fabric can be achieved because of the improved hydrophilicity by using the plasma treatment. Keywords atmospheric pressure plasma, cotton yarn sizing, sizing recipe, sizing properties, glycerol Cotton fiber is one of the most widely used natural textile materials because cotton fabrics are comfortable, breathable and easy to care for. 1 Cotton yarns, espe- cially high count yarns, are easily broken in high-speed weaving. In order to obtain acceptable sizing properties for warp yarns in high-speed weaving, traditional sizing recipes containing certain percentages of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) have been widely adopted in the warp sizing industry for decades. 2,3 However, PVA in the desizing wastewater is difficult to decompose in nature, resulting in high-level chemical oxygen demand (COD) in the water. 4–6 Therefore, the develop- ment of green sizing recipes is urgently needed to pro- tect the natural environment. Starch size and its modifications are biodegradable and abundantly available. They are often used in com- bination with PVA because of their poor fluidity and unstable viscosity. 7 Some problems, such as brittleness and stiffness of size films and poor sizing properties will be encountered if starch size and its modifications are used alone. These could be improved to a certain extent by introducing some small molecules that are rich in 1 Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai, P. R. China 2 Materials and Textile Engineering College, Jiaxing University, Zhejiang, P. R. China 3 College of Textiles and Clothing Engineering, Dezhou University, Shandong, P. R. China 4 Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering Department, University of California, Los Angeles, California, USA Corresponding author: Yiping Qiu, Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, 2999 N. Renmin Rd. Songjiang, 201620 Shanghai, P. R. China. Email: [email protected] Textile Research Journal 83(20) 2177–2190 ! The Author(s) 2013 Reprints and permissions: sagepub.co.uk/journalsPermissions.nav DOI: 10.1177/0040517513490061 trj.sagepub.com at UCLA on April 24, 2015 trj.sagepub.com Downloaded from

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Page 1: Eco-friendly sizing technology of cotton The Author(s ... · Eco-friendly sizing technology of cotton yarns with He/O 2 atmospheric pressure plasma treatment and green sizing recipes

Original article

Eco-friendly sizing technology of cottonyarns with He/O2 atmospheric pressureplasma treatment and green sizing recipes

Shiyuan Sun1,2,3,4, Hang Yu4, Thomas Williams4,Robert F Hicks4 and Yiping Qiu1

Abstract

In order to avoid using polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), an eco-friendly sizing technology with atmospheric pressure plasma

treatment and green sizing recipes has been developed and evaluated with respect to sizing properties and desizing

efficiency. The results show that the eco-friendly sizing technology can endow cotton yarn with better sizing properties,

including significantly improved size-pick-up, breaking strength, breaking elongation, abrasion resistance and substantially

reduced yarn hair, than the traditional sizing technology with the use of PVA. Compared with a typical traditional sizing

technology using PVA and modified starch, the optimized eco-friendly sizing technology can impart the yarn an increase

of 19.4%, 5.3%, 3.4% and 169.2% for the size-pick-up, breaking strength, breaking elongation and the abrasion resistance

time, respectively, and a reduction of 59.3% for the yarn hairiness index value at level 1. The sizing properties can be

obviously improved by the atmospheric pressure plasma treatment, which can roughen the fiber surface, etch away the

hydrophobic cuticle layer and introduce polar groups. The glycerol in the green sizing recipes can effectively reduce the

yarn hairiness and increase size-pick-up and abrasion resistance. The eco-friendly sizing technology has no observable

negative influence on desizing of cotton fabrics. Furthermore, a better water diffusion in the fabric can be achieved

because of the improved hydrophilicity by using the plasma treatment.

Keywords

atmospheric pressure plasma, cotton yarn sizing, sizing recipe, sizing properties, glycerol

Cotton fiber is one of the most widely used naturaltextile materials because cotton fabrics are comfortable,breathable and easy to care for.1 Cotton yarns, espe-cially high count yarns, are easily broken in high-speedweaving. In order to obtain acceptable sizing propertiesfor warp yarns in high-speed weaving, traditional sizingrecipes containing certain percentages of polyvinylalcohol (PVA) have been widely adopted in the warpsizing industry for decades.2,3 However, PVA in thedesizing wastewater is difficult to decompose innature, resulting in high-level chemical oxygendemand (COD) in the water.4–6 Therefore, the develop-ment of green sizing recipes is urgently needed to pro-tect the natural environment.

Starch size and its modifications are biodegradableand abundantly available. They are often used in com-bination with PVA because of their poor fluidity andunstable viscosity.7 Some problems, such as brittleness

and stiffness of size films and poor sizing properties willbe encountered if starch size and its modifications areused alone. These could be improved to a certain extentby introducing some small molecules that are rich in

1Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education,

Donghua University, Shanghai, P. R. China2Materials and Textile Engineering College, Jiaxing University, Zhejiang,

P. R. China3College of Textiles and Clothing Engineering, Dezhou University,

Shandong, P. R. China4Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering Department, University of

California, Los Angeles, California, USA

Corresponding author:

Yiping Qiu, Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of

Education, Donghua University, 2999 N. Renmin Rd. Songjiang, 201620

Shanghai, P. R. China.

Email: [email protected]

Textile Research Journal

83(20) 2177–2190

! The Author(s) 2013

Reprints and permissions:

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DOI: 10.1177/0040517513490061

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hydroxyl groups into the starch size as plasticizers.8–10

In our previous research, green sizing recipes withingredients of phosphate-modified starch (PM-starch)and glycerol were used as substitutes for traditionalones to size the raw cotton yarn. However, the resultsshowed that glycerol may lead to decreased size-pick-up, yarn breaking strength and breaking elong-ation. One of the probable reasons is that the adhesionbetween the fiber and the size (ABFS) becomes poorerafter the introduction of glycerol into the size; the otheris that the raw cotton fiber is hydrophobic due to theexistence of its surface cuticle layer, which is mainlycomposed of pectin and waxes.11,12 The hydrophobicityof fibers brings difficulties to wetting of cotton yarns.

As a clean, dry and green technique, atmosphericpressure plasma (APP) treatments have been developedto modify surface properties of textile materials inrecent years.13–18 Yu and Shouguo19,20 used plasmato treat wool and cotton fibers to improve their hydro-philicity, although they did not study its potentialapplications in cotton yarn sizing. Yunhua et al.21 uti-lized the dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) to improvethe sizing properties of pure polyester and polyester/cotton yarns. However, the DBD used in their studygenerates ‘‘filamentary’’ discharge and has an inhomo-geneous treatment effect on textile materials, especiallyon those with higher moisture regains. In addition, asan important point to evaluate the sizing performance,the influence of plasma treatment on desizing was notinvestigated.

So far, little has been reported on plasma-assistedenvironmentally friendly sizing technology for practicalapplications. This study attempts to develop an eco-friendly sizing technology (EFST) combining APPtreatment with green sizing recipes to replace the trad-itional sizing technology (TST) using PVA. In thispaper, APP treatment was employed to improve theABFS and the hydrophilicity of raw cotton yarns. Inaddition, the desizing efficiency of the sized cottonfabric was also studied. Three different sizing technol-ogies were adopted: (1) the EFST with APP pretreat-ment plus green sizing recipes with different percentagesof glycerol and PM-starch was used to size raw cottonyarns treated by APP; (2) the EFST without APP pre-treatment in which green sizing recipes were used aloneto size raw cotton yarns; (3) the TST-sizing recipes withdifferent percentages of PVA and PM-starch were usedto size the raw cotton yarns. Sizing properties of theyarns from different sizing technologies were comparedand analyzed by different parameters, namely, size-pick-up, breaking strength, breaking elongation, abra-sion resistance time and the hairiness index value. Thesurface roughness, morphology and chemical changesof raw cotton fibers with and without APP treatmentwere examined by atomic force microscopy (AFM),

Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) and X-rayphotoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), respectively. Thehydrophilicity of the fabrics knitted by raw cottonyarns with and without APP treatment was character-ized by the water contact angle (WCA) and waterabsorption time (WAT). Meanwhile, the impact ofAPP treatment on the desizing of fabrics was evaluatedby the iodine dripping method, which can detect theresidual size on cotton fabrics after desizing.

Experimental details

Materials

The 60 count raw cotton yarns were provided byShandong Sanyang Textile Co. Ltd, China. Fabrics(60s, plain stitch knitting) knitted with the raw cottonyarns were used for the hydrophilicity and desizingtests. The starch used in this study was PM-starch(degree of esterification� 0.02) provided by ShandongXiangyu Technology Group Co. Ltd, China. The gly-cerol, iodine, PVA (molecular weight 1700, alcoholysisdegree 99%) and sodium hydroxide used in this studywere chemically pure.

APP treatments

The Atomflo-400 APP treatment apparatus (SurfxCompany, USA), as shown in Figure 1, was employedto treat the cotton yarns and fabrics. The plasma sourcewith a capacitively coupled electrode design can pro-duce the stable glow discharge at 13.56MHz radio fre-quency. More information can be found in theliterature.22 The yarns were delivered by an unwind-ing–winding device, and continuously treated by pas-sing through the plasma working area, which was

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the APP apparatus. APP:

atmospheric pressure plasma.

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1.5mm below the plasma source at a speed of 1mm/s(treatment duration, 20 s). The fabrics were put on theconveying belt and treated with the same treatmentconditions. The parameters of the APP treatments arelisted in Table 1.

AFM, SEM and XPS analysis

AFM (Multimode Nanoscope IIIa, Digital Instrument,USA) was used to examine the roughness of the fibersurfaces. All of the AFM images were acquired in airusing the tapping mode to prevent significant deterior-ation of the fiber surface. The surface morphologies ofthe cotton fibers with and without APP treatment wereobserved by using SEM (JSM-5600LV Model, Japan).The magnification of the images was set as 5000x andthe samples were coated with gold prior to the SEMtest. The surface chemical composition of the controland APP-treated fibers was analyzed using anESCALAB 250 X-ray photoelectron spectroscope(Thermo Electron VG Scientific, USA). The X-raysource was Al Ka (1486.6 eV), operating at 150W and20 eV. The pressure within the XPS chamber was 10�7

to 10�8Pa. Photo-emitted electrons were collected at atake-off angle of 45� and the deconvolution analysis ofC1s peaks was carried out using XPSPEAK software.The C1s core level peak was calibrated at 285 eV.

Wettability measurements

The wettability of the control and APP-treated fabricswas automatically measured by a DMC-AD31S appar-atus (Kyowa Interface Science Co., Ltd Japan) usingthe sessile drop method. WAT and WCA were bothtested with 2 mL dispense volume and the waiting timebefore the measurement of WCA was 1000ms afterdropping the water.

Size preparation and sizing process

Sizing recipes with different percentages of ingredients arelisted in Table 2. PM-S with 100% PM-starch was usedfor the control sample. P30, P50 and P70 were used forthe TST and G5, G10, G15 and G20 were green sizing

recipes used for the EFST. All sizes had the same solidcontent of sizing liquor, 7%. Sizes used in the TST wereobtained by mixing different percentages of PVA andPM-starch sizing liquors, which were prepared previously,and then kept at 100�C for 1h. Sizes used in the EFSTwere prepared by mixing different percentages of glyceroland PM-starch solutions and kept at 98�C for 2h. Theviscosity of sizes used in the EFST was tested by anNDJ79 rotatory viscometer (Mechanical and ElectricalFactory, Tongji University, China) at 95�C and all sizeswere kept at the same temperature before the sizing.

All sizing processes were carried out on a GA392electronic single yarn sizing machine (Jiang Yin TongYuan Textile Machinery Co., Ltd, China) with thesame processing parameters. Using this system, theyarn can be sized, dried and wound up automatically,as shown in Figure 2. The sizing processes werecarried out at a size temperature of 90�C, sizing speedof 80m/min and drying temperature of 65�C; the yarntension was kept at 115 cN to make the yarn go throughthe size box and the drying chamber steadily.

Evaluation of sizing properties

Sizing properties were evaluated statistically by testingdifferent parameters, including the size-pick-up, break-ing strength, breaking elongation, abrasion resistancetime and the hairiness index values of the yarn samples.Sized yarns were all stored in standard textile testingconditions (20�C and 65% relative humidity (RH)) for24 h before testing. The breaking strength and breakingelongation were assessed by testing a total of 50 speci-mens for each yarn sample on YG061 electronic singleyarn strength apparatus (Laizhou Electron InstrumentCo., Ltd, China) to get the mean values. The abrasionresistance time was investigated by testing 30 specimensfor each yarn sample on a Y731 yarn abrader

Table 1. Processing parameters of the atmospheric pressure

plasma treatment

Parameter Values

Helium flow rate (standard liter per minute) 30

Oxygen flow rate (standard liter per minute) 0.3

Jet-to-sample distance (mm) 1.5

Treatment durations (s) 20

Output power (W) 40

Table 2. Sizing recipes with different percentages of ingredients

for the traditional sizing technologies and eco-friendly sizing

technologies

Sizing recipes

Sizing ingredients (%, mass percentage)

PVA PM-starch Glycerin

PM-S 0 100 0

P30 30 70 /

P50 50 50 /

P70 70 30 /

G5 / 95 5

G10 / 90 10

G15 / 85 15

G20 / 80 20

PM-starch: phosphate-modified starch; PVA: polyvinyl alcohol.

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(Changzhou Textile Instrument Company, China) toget the mean value. Both hairiness index values andthe appearance observation were adopted to character-ize the reduction of cotton hairs (fibers) that protrudeout of the yarn. Hairiness index values signify thenumber of hairs whose projected lengths are over fourlevels of 1, 2, 3 and 4mm, respectively, and smallerindex values at four levels mean that the hairiness hasbeen more effectively reduced. Hairiness index valueswere obtained by measuring 200 meters of eachsample on a YG172 yarn hairiness tester (ChanglingCo., Ltd, China) and each sample’s appearance wasobserved using the ZEISS Optical transmission micro-scope (Carl Zeiss Jena, Germany) with an AxiocamMRC camera. The evaluation of size-pick-up dependson a comprehensive consideration of many factors,including the fiber type, the yarn construction andits linear density, fabric structure and other sizingproperties.23 The size-pick-up can be calculated accord-ing to the following equation:

S ¼G� G0

G0� 100% ð1Þ

where S is the size-pick-up; G is the dry weight of thesized cotton yarn; G0 is the dry weight of the yarnbefore sizing.

Desizing effect analysis

The influence of APP treatment on the desizing of thecotton fabric was investigated using the iodine drippingmethod. After desizing, the PM-starch residual can bedetected by dripping the iodine solution onto the fabric,because a deep blue color will be shown whenPM-starch meets the iodine. In the test, two groups of10 fabric samples with a dimension of 2 cm� 2 cm wereprepared: one was treated by APP and the other wasuntreated. Both groups were sized by the EFST withthe G15 sizing recipe and then dried naturally in

standard textile testing conditions for 24 h. For eachgroup, sized samples from number 2 to 10 wereboiled in NaOH solution with a concentration of20 g/L for 2, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 and 40min,respectively, and the bath ratio was set as 1:30.Sample 1 in each group was the control sample withoutbeing boiled in NaOH solution. All desized sampleswere rinsed by distilled water sufficiently, and naturallydried in the standard textile testing conditions for 24 h.The standard iodine solution with a 0.01mol/L concen-tration was then dripped onto the desized samples witha 100 mL pipette. One minute later, the color displayingof each sample was photographed.

Results and discussion

Effects of APP treatment on fiber surface properties

Figure 3 shows scanning electron microscopy (SEM)images of the control and the APP-treated cottonfibers. The surface of the APP-treated fiber was foundto be severely roughened compared with the controlfiber. Figure 4 gives surface mean roughness of theAPP-treated fibers with the increase of plasma treat-ment time. It can be found that the surface roughnessincreases until the treatment time of 15 s and thendecreases. The increased surface roughness mainlyresulted from the etching of the cuticle layer by thebombardment of high-energy plasma species, and thesubsequent decrease of surface roughness is probablycaused by progressive etching and re-deposition of frag-mented pieces.

Table 3 presents the hydrophilicity and deconvolu-tion analysis of C1s peaks for the control and APP-treated samples. It was observed that WCA of theAPP-treated fabric was greatly reduced from 135.4�

(control fabric) to 0� and the hydrophilicity keptrising as the content of the polar groups of C-OH,C¼O and O�C¼O went up. The increase of hydro-philicity was primarily due to the oxidation and plasma

Figure 2. Schematic illustration of the sizing equipment.

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Figure 3. Scanning electron microscopy images of the control and the APP-treated cotton fibers: (a) control; (b) APP treated.

APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

Figure 4. Fiber surface mean roughness with the increase of atmospheric pressure plasma treatment time.

APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

Table 3. Hydrophilicity and C1s peak deconvolution analysis of the control and atmospheric pressure plasma-treated samples

Samples

Treatment

time (s)

Relative area corresponding to different chemical groups (%)

WCA (�) WAT (ms)

C�H/C�C

(285 eV)

C�OH

(286.6 eV)

C¼O

(288 eV)

O�C¼O

(289 eV)

Control 0 67.7 24.6 6.6 1.1 135.4 /

Sample 1 5 66.3 24.3 7.6 1.8 114.5 /

Sample 2 10 64.5 24.9 8.2 2.4 80.7 /

Sample 3 15 59.4 25.2 10.1 5.3 24.2 /

Sample 4 20 57.0 26.0 11.0 6.0 0.0 956

Sample 5 25 43.8 26.7 17.6 12.0 0.0 687

Sample 6 30 32.1 29.5 21.2 17.2 0.0 209

WCA: water contact angle; WAT: water absorption time.

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etching of the hydrophobic cuticle layer, according tothe literature.24,25 The oxidation of the fiber surfacebrought more hydrophilic groups, while more cellulosewas exposed by removal of the hydrophobic cuticlelayer due to plasma etching.

Figure 5 illustrates the overall mechanism of APPtreatment effects on the surface of cotton fiber. Threekinds of actions, namely, surface roughening, cuticlelayer removing and introducing more hydrophilicgroups onto the fiber surfaces, were accomplished byAPP treatment. According to Frank’s adhesiontheory,26 interactions including the mechanical inter-locking and the attractive force on the interface arecritical for the adhesion strength between two compo-nents. In this study, the surface roughness could bringthe mechanical interlocking effect to the interfacebetween the fiber and the size. The increase of hydro-philic groups on the fiber surface will lead to morechances for formation of hydrogen bonds between thefiber and the PM-starch size. Besides, the Van der

Waals forces can be improved by the enlarged interfacebetween the fiber and the size. Consequently, the mech-anical interlocking, the formation of more hydrogenbonds and the enhanced Van der Waals forces betweenthe fiber and the size will conduce to the improvementof the ABFS, which is important for the improvementof sizing properties.

Influence of the EFST on size-pick-up

Figure 6 gives size-pick-ups of yarns and indicates thatthe size-pick-up increased with the rise of glycerol per-centage in green sizing recipes. Furthermore, an aver-age of 18.7% size-pick-up enhancement for all sampleswas obtained by the APP treatment. The improvementof size-pick-up with the increase of glycerol was prob-ably because the formation of hydrogen bonds betweenmolecules of PM-starch and glycerol could decrease thedensity of the intermolecular hydrogen bonds inPM-starch, as shown in Figure 7, leading to reduced

Figure 5. Overall mechanism of APP treatment on the surface of cotton fiber.

APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

Figure 6. Size-pick-ups of sized yarns from the EFSTs with and without APP treatment. EFST: eco-friendly sizing technology.

APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

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Figure 7. Chemical structures of (a) PM-starch, (b) Glycerol and (c) Intermolecular hydrogen bond in PM-starch. PM-starch:

phosphate modified starch.

Figure 8. Viscosity of sizes with green sizing recipes used in the EFST. EFST: eco-friendly sizing technology.

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intermolecular forces. As a result, as shown in Figure 8,the viscosity of the size will decrease, making the sizepermeate into the yarn easily. For APP-treated sam-ples, the size can be absorbed into and adhered ontothe yarns quickly and easily because of the improvedhydrophilicity and the ABFS by APP treatment,improving the size-pick-up.

Influence of the EFST on yarn breaking strengthand breaking elongation

Figures 9 and 10 present breaking strengths and elong-ations of the sized yarns. The breaking elongationreflects the toughness of the sized yarn, which is import-ant for reducing warp yarn breakages in weaving.

Figure 9. Breaking strengths of sized yarns from the EFSTs with and without APP treatment. EFST: eco-friendly sizing technology.

APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

Figure 10. Breaking elongations of sized yarns from the EFSTs with and without APP treatment. EFST: eco-friendly sizing

technology.

APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

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The breaking strength and the elongation were raisedsubstantially by APP treatment but reduced with theincrease of glycerol percentage. An average of 16.2%and 2.5% enhancement for all samples was obtained byAPP treatment for the breaking strength and breaking

elongation, respectively. The primary reason for theenhancement of the breaking strength is that APP treat-ment raised ABFS and thus improved the cohesionamong fibers in the yarn. During the elongation ofthe yarn, increased ABFS could make stress transfer

Figure 11. Abrasion resistance time of sized yarns from the EFSTs with and without APP treatment. EFST: eco-friendly sizing

technology.

APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

Figure 12. Hairiness index values of sized yarns from the EFSTs with and without APP treatment at levels of 1, 2, 3 and 4 mm. EFST:

eco-friendly sizing technology; APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

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among the fibers more effective and consequentlyimprove the elongation of the yarn. For the reductionof the breaking strength and the elongation with theincrease of glycerol percentage, it was likely becauseglycerol decreased the number of hydrogen bondsbetween the PM-starch and the fibers, loweringthe ABFS.

Influence of the EFST on abrasion resistance time

Figure 11 illustrates the abrasion resistance time ofsized yarns. Longer abrasion resistance time implies abetter abrasion resistance of the yarn. The abrasionresistance time was increased by 137.6% for all sam-ples, on average, by APP treatment. Obviously, the

Figure 13. Photographs of yarns from the EFSTs with different sizing recipes (50�): (a), (c), (e) and (g) are not pretreated by APP;

(b), (d), (f) and (h) are pretreated by APP.

EFST: eco-friendly sizing technology; APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

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Figure 14. Photographs of the color displaying for samples from the EFSTs with different desizing time: (a) non-APP-pretreated

samples with sizing recipe of G15; (b) APP-pretreated samples with sizing recipe of G15.

EFST: eco-friendly sizing technology; APP: atmospheric pressure plasma.

Figure 15. Comparisons of sizing properties between the sample AG and sample P30, P50 and P70.

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enhancement of the abrasion resistance was most likelydue to the improved ABFS by APP treatment. Asshown in Figure 11, the abrasion resistance timedecreases until the glycerol percentage reaches 10%,and then increases with the rise of the glycerol percent-age in the sizing recipes. The first decrease could beattributed to the reduction of ABFS caused by the add-ition of glycerol. When the glycerol is more than 10%,it could function as a plasticizer for PM-starch andconsequently make the size film flexible enough toincrease abrasion resistance.

Influence of the EFST on hairiness index value

Figure 12 gives the hairiness index values of the yarnsat levels of 1, 2, 3, 4mm with and without APP treat-ment and Figure 13 show their photographs. It can beseen that the cotton hairs were substantially reduced byAPP treatment and an average of 78.2% reduction forall samples was achieved at the level of 1mm. In add-ition, the hairiness index values at all levelsdecreased with the increase of glycerol percentage ingreen sizing recipes. Two factors were responsible forthe reduction of hairiness index values. One was theimproved size penetration due to the decrease of itsviscosity, as mentioned above. The other was theenhanced hydrophilicity of the yarn by APP treatment,which could allow the outer layer fibers to be saturatedwell by the size in a short period of time during thesizing. Both factors facilitated adhesion of the pro-truded fiber ends on the yarn surface to the bulk ofthe yarn, substantially decreasing the hairiness indexvalues of the yarn.

Influence of the EFST on desizing

Figure 14 shows photographs of the color displayingfor samples from the EFSTs with and without APPtreatment. It can be seen that after being boiled inNaOH solution for 35min or longer time, samplesin both groups display the brown yellow color, indi-cating no PM-starch residual on samples after35min boiling. Because another ingredient in thegreen sizing recipes is glycerol, which is water sol-uble, it may be concluded that the size was com-pletely removed from the samples in both groups.It was proved that the EFST with APP treatmenthad no negative effect on the desizing of the fabric.The main reason was that only hydrogen bonds, thesurface mechanical interlocking and the Van derWaals forces existed between the fiber and the size.These interface interactions could be easily dis-rupted by NaOH in the boiling state. Besides,the APP-pretreated control sample had a largerarea of deep blue color than the untreated one.

The probable reason is that the APP treatmentcould endow the fabric with a better wicking abilitythan the untreated one because of the improvedhydrophilicity.

Comparisons with the TST

The optimized EFST is compared with the TST inFigure 15 and Table 4. Sample AG was obtainedfrom the optimized EFST with APP treatment andsizing recipe G15, and samples P30, P50 and P70were obtained from TSTs with sizing recipes P30, P50and P70, respectively. The control sample was sizedwith sizing recipe PM-S. Figure 15 shows that, withthe exception of the abrasion resistance time ofsample P70, sample AG had the highest size-pick-up,breaking strength, breaking elongation and longerabrasion resistance time. Although sample P70 had abetter abrasion resistance performance than sampleAG, it had an obviously lower breaking elongationthan the other samples. Furthermore, the sizing recipeP70 is seldom used in practical applications because ofthe high content of PVA. Table 4 shows that sampleAG had lower hairiness index values at all four levelsthan the other samples, indicating that the yarn hairscould be more efficiently reduced by the EFST.Compared with sample P30 coming from the com-monly used TST, sample AG had an increase of19.4%, 5.3%, 3.4% and 169.2% for the size-pick-up,breaking strength, breaking elongation and the abra-sion resistance time, respectively, and a reduction of59.3% for the hairiness index value at level 1. It is note-worthy that, as the two most important parametersamong sizing properties, the abrasion resistance timeand the hairiness index values are remarkably improvedand effectively reduced, respectively. From the aboveanalysis, it can be concluded that the EFST with APPtreatment and sizing recipe G15 can render the yarnswith better sizing properties than the TST with com-monly used sizing recipes.

Table 4. Hairiness index values for sample AG and samples

P30, P50 and P70

Samples

Hairiness index values a four levels

(Number/m)

1 mm 2 mm 3 mm 4 mm

Control 5.16 1.08 0.20 0.12

Sample P30 0.59 0.03 0.00 0.00

Sample P50 0.26 0.14 0.03 0.03

Sample P70 0.25 0.10 0.01 0.02

Sample AG 0.24 0.09 0.00 0.00

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Conclusions

In this study, an EFST with APP treatment and greensizing recipes was developed. The sizing properties ofthe cotton yarns were highly improved by the APPtreatment, which could effectively roughen the fiber sur-faces, etch the cuticle layer and introduce some hydro-philic groups to the fiber. The glycerol in green sizingrecipes could effectively reduce the yarn hairiness andincrease the size-pick-up and abrasion resistance time.The APP treatment in the EFST had no negative influ-ence on desizing of the cotton fabric. Furthermore, abetter wettability of the fabric could be obtainedbecause of the improved hydrophilicity by APP treat-ment. In summary, the EFST is proved to have poten-tial applications in the cotton yarn sizing industry as areplacement for the traditional recipes.

Funding

This work was supported by the State Key Program of

National Natural Science of China (No. 51035003), NaturalScience Foundation for the Youth (No. 50803010 and60904056), National Science Foundation for Post-doctoral

Scientists of China (No. 20100470664), Shanghai Post-doc-toral Research Funded Project (No. 09R21410100),Shanghai University Young Teacher Training Program andthe Research Funds for the Innovation of Doctoral

Dissertation of Donghua University (No. 101-06-0019070).

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