Eco-friendly processing of Jute & Allied Fibres

Paper presented to

INTERNATIONAL JUTE STUDY GROUP (IJSG) DHAKA, BANGLADESH

By

Dr. S. K. Chakrabarti

INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRIES’ RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

17, TARATALA ROAD, KOLKATA 700088

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INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRIES’ RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

ECO-FRIENDLY PROCESSING OF JUTE & ALLIED FIBRES

Dr. S. K. ChakrabartiIndian Jute Industries’ Research Association (IJIRA)

17 Taratola Road, Kolkata- 700088

Abstract: In the present scenario, the growing concerns among the people globally against the use of synthetic polymers, toxin liberating substances and non-biodegradable products, because of their hazardous after effects on environment and human health, re-established the needs of natural fibres to our society in terms of packaging and daily use products. Jute, the ligno-cellulosic biodegradable, natural bast fibre is known for decades as low cost packaging material. With increase in awareness for eco-friendly materials from sustainable resources, Jute sector started regaining its market both in traditional and diversified applications. However, for eco-compliance of Jute products and to increase the cost competitiveness of jute commodity items, efforts have been continuing to develop effective eco-friendly and cleaner process technologies. The paper presented encompasses brief description of three eco-process technologies developed by Indian Jute Industries’ Research Association.

1.0 Introduction:

Golden fibre, Jute, is the most important cash crop of great socio-economic importance in South Asian countries specially India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Nepal ,as it provides subsistence to millions of farmers for their livelihood. Jute is characterized specially with its silky lusture, high tensile strength, low extensibility, considerable resistance to fire and heat, good insulation to sound and heat etc. and for the centuries it has been used successfully as flexible low cost packaging material for packing industrial and food products.

The use of jute fibre which was stiffly declining particularly in packaging due to the advent of low cost synthetic fibre and their products has been reviewed by the consumers world over, focusing on eco-friendly materials from sustainable resources. With the increasing global awareness in civilized society towards the use of eco-friendly products, jute is progressively widening its application areas and hence profile of jute fibre is being changed from sacks to consumer utilities, hessian to hard boards and twines to decorative etc. In recent time, considerable amount of research works have been initiated to introduce jute in the various high end applications also and the driving force of such technology development has been the economy and ecology.

In recent time, it has been reported that finished jute products, either

conventional or diversified, contain some undesirable and objectionable non-fibrous components though jute fibres cultivated following Good Agricultural Practice (GAP) and processed under Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) in Jute mills are usually free from any toxic residues. Hence, for better market acceptance and customer satisfaction, Jute sector has been trying to develop eco-friendly technologies for processing of jute and allied fibres in order to meet the stringent EPA guidelines and the Sanitary &

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Phytosanitary issues related to textiles. Development of eco-friendly and cleaner technologies for sustainable production pattern in jute processing has been continuing by various Research Institutes under Environmental Research & Development Programmes. It is an established phenomenon that excessive use of harsh chemicals in textile processing has resulted in pollution of environment and slow deterioration of soil health. Manufacturing of eco-textiles through cleaner production concept is thus receiving new recognitions today, as it is the comprehensive & preventive approach to environmental protection.

This paper will highlight in brief three eco-process technologies such as a) Eco-fibre lubricant in Jute processing, b) Enzyme application in Jute and c) Bio-chemical technology for retention of optimum moisture in Jute Processing, developed and implemented by Indian Jute Industries’ Research Association (IJIRA), Kolkata, for Indian Jute Sector.

2.0 PART (A): ECO-FIBRE LUBRICANT IN JUTE PROCESSING

It is the most important environmental obligation of major jute producing and processing countries e.g. India and Bangladesh etc. to preserve the eco-friendly characteristic of jute products through development of sustainable process technologies. Jute being ligno-cellulosic, coarse bast fibres are traditionally processed by petroleum based fibre lubricant, known as Jute Batching oil (JBO) for the last couple of decades to improve their amenability in subsequent processing through machineries. However, presence of some undesired toxic chemical constituents in JBO (e.g. Poly nuclear aromatic hydrocarbons such as pyrenes, benzpyrenes, benzanthracene etc. reported to be carcinogenic in nature) and its typical odour have posed some problems in terms of its wide acceptability in food contact application. Although the threat perception of jute consuming countries with respect to JBO processed jute bags were not well founded in terms of human health aspects, nevertheless, market has demanded replacement of JBO and it was prudent not to ignore the market signal. In addition, consumer safety and environmental protection are becoming increasingly important issues while exporting textile products in abroad.

Considering the limitations of JBO, demand has been generated to replace Jute Batching Oil in jute processing by a suitable Eco-fibre lubricant. To find out a suitable alternative of JBO various fibre lubricant formulations using Castor oil, Turkey Red Oil, Palm Oil, Polymers etc. had been tried in Jute sector, however, with moderate success. Development of Rice Bran Oil technology by IJIRA being a market driven Process Technology, was a major breakthrough in this direction. Application of Rice Bran Oil based eco- fibre lubricant is mostly restricted to the production of specific exportable premium Jute items known as Food Grade Jute Products (FGJP) to pack cocoa, coffee and shelled nuts etc. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study on jute further recommended for vegetable oil based fibre lubricant formulation especially Rice Bran Oil (RBO) considering its unique nature, eco-compatibility etc. (Table-1).

A brief details of Rice Bran Oil based eco-fibre lubricant developed by IJIRA as

an alternative to JBO has been presented below.

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2.1 RICE BRAN OIL (RBO)

In the field of eco-processing of jute, contribution of IJIRA is well recognized and the Institute is the pioneer of implementing RBO based eco-fibre lubricant to Jute industry as a widely acceptable replacement of JBO specifically for producing Food Grade Jute Products (FGJP).

Rice Bran Oil (RBO) of non-edible variety (Grade II) has been recommended initially by IJIRA as the major ingredient of Eco-fibre lubricant within indigenous vegetable oils of India, as production of RBO is steadily increasing in India scenario (Table 1 ) and its untapped potential is very high so that the likelihood of shortage or price hike is minimum in RBO. On the other hand, rancidity is a common problem in all types of vegetable oils where RBO is a solitary exception due to the presence of multicomponent systems of natural anti-oxidants such as Tocopherol and esters of Ferulic acids etc.

Table 1: Why Rice Bran Oil?

2.2 WORKING SPECIFICATION OF RBO

A working specification for RBO has been laid down by IJIRA keeping in view of meeting the International specification IJO 98/01 made for FGJP (Table 2).

2.3 RBO TECHNOLOGY – A SYNERGISTIC COCKTAIL FORMULATION

RBO based eco-fibre lubricant is basically a cocktail of several components e.g.

Rice Bran Oil (1.5 -2.0 %, w/w) Non-ionic eco-emulsifier Enzymes and Additives

Synergistic effect of the above components has been found to be of critical importance for optimum processing of jute fibres. Present cost of RBO based eco-emulsion is about Rs. 800-900/-per MT of jute fibre.

Sr. No. Special Characteristics of RBO

1. Rice is one of the world’s largest crops. Rice Bran Oil (Gr.II) extracted from Rice Bran is non-toxic, biodegradable and safe for food packaging.

2. RBO is unique in terms of high thermal and oxidation stability and therefore reasonably free from rancidity.

3. Rice Bran Oil is adequately available at reasonable price. Present annual production of RBO in India is 12.0 Lakh MT and its untapped potential is 8.0 Lakh MT.

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2.4 VALIDATION OF RBO BASED TECHNOLOGY

Rice Bran Oil based eco-fibre lubricant developed by IJIRA has been validated by a buyer’s recognized German Laboratory. This inter-laboratory comparison is helpful in developing requisite marketing confidence and to increase the market share of safe jute bags for packing food in an ecological sensitive global market place.

Table 2: Working Specification of Rice Bran Oil

Sr. No. Parameters tested Rice Bran Oil

1. Free Fatty Acid (%) 0.25 – 0.35

2. Unsaponifiable Matter (%) 2.5 -3.0

3. MIV ( % ) 0.05 4. Flash Point > 250 0C 5. Colour 10-12

6. Peroxide Value <1.0 7. Saponification Value 190

8. Cloud Point 8.5 0C 9. TBHQ , ppm 100 10. Ozyzanol Content, ppm 14,400 11. Viscosity (cst) 30-35 12. Mineral Oil Test -ve

2.5 PRODUCT RANGE

RBO technology has made the conventional jute products as well as jute based diversified products more acceptable to customers around the world. Indian Jute sector is currently manufacturing various products such as Hessian cloth/ bags, twill bags, DWF bags, tea bags, leaf bags etc. using RBO based eco-fibre lubricant.

Table 3: Properties of RBO processed Jute Hessian Yarns

Quality 8.5lbs Hessian Warp

8.5lbs Hessian Weft

Actual Count (lbs) 8.34 8.46Count@ 16% M.R 8.79 8.92Count CV % 3.58 3.72Avg. Q.R. 92.0 90.0Range (88-95) (82-94)Strength CV% 15.25 16.85Actual T.P.I 4.22 4.28Spinning Efficiency % 88 % 86 %Batch Compositions DTD3.5 =32%

SNTD4 = 48%ATD6 =20%

DTD3.5=32%SNTD4=48%ATD6 =20%

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2.5 PERFORMANCE ASSESSMENT

The performance of the RBO technology is now a time tested phenomenon. RBO based eco-fibre lubricant has been used by various Indian jute mills and based on the floor level feed back, the eco- fibre lubricant formulation has been modified to increase its performance efficiency. Physical properties of different hessian and sacking yarns have been summarized along with their spinning performance in Table 3 & 4. Weaving performance of RBO treated hessian & sacking cloths at looms is shown in Table 5. Spinning and weaving performances of RBO treated yarns and fabrics respectively have been observed satisfactory.

Table 4: Properties of RBO processed Jute Sacking Yarns

Quality 10.5lbs Skg. Warp 28lbs Skg Weft

Actual Count (lbs) 10.51 28.26

Count @ 20% M.R 11.31 29.03Count CV % 5.21 6.42Avg. Q.R. 85.0 80.0Range (78-90) (74-84)Strength CV% 16.40 20.10Actual T.P.I 4.12 2.40Spinning Efficiency% 82 % 76%

Batch Compositions DTD4=30%DTD5=42%SNTD5=15%Wastage=13% (cuttings, thread waste, habijabi)

SNTD6=21%DTD6 = 30%DTD6 =9%Thread waste =13%Cutting = 23%Habijabi & Spg.Waste=4%

Table 5: Weaving Performance of RBO treated Food Grade Jute Products

Quality Hessian 40”-(11×12)-10

oz/yd

B. Twill 26.5”-(6×8)–13.9

oz/yd

DW Fabric28” -(8×8)– 12.3

oz/ydEnds/dm 47 76 68

Picks/dm 47 31 31

Warp Count (lbs) 8.5 10.5 10.5

Weft Count (lbs) 8.5 28.0 26.0

Loom Efficiency (%) 60-62 78-80 75-78

2.6 IMPLEMENTATION STATUS OF ECO-FIBRE LUBRICANT

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Eco-fibre lubricant formulation based on Rice Bran Oil has been implemented by the Indian Jute Industry and currently seventeen jute mills are licensed by IJIRA to use this technology for producing Food grade Jute products. Attempts are being made to replace JBO by modified RBO based eco-fibre lubricant on whole shed basis.

2.7 TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER AND QUALITY ASSURANCE

IJIRA, being the nodal accredited organization in India for certification of FGJP for export, developed a strict regime of certification in the greater interest of the end users of RBO based eco-fibre lubricant. Jute mills desiring to manufacture toxic - hydrocarbon free FGJP are required to obtain “Capability Certificate” from IJIRA. The essential prerequisite to have such a certificate involves declaring, identifying and marking a full production line within a mill which is totally dedicated and segregated for the production of eco-friendly jute products only.

2.8 PROTECTION OF INTELECTUAL PROPERTY

IJIRA has been granted patent on RBO based eco-fibre lubricant in all major jute producing and consuming countries such as Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nigeria, Brazil, U.K, China , Nepal , Indonesia , India and OAPI countries.

2.9 CONCLUSION

Rice Bran Oil based eco-fibre lubricant developed by IJIRA has been found to be techno-commercially viable for eco-friendly processing of jute and allied fibres and the treated products (FGJP) meet the International specification IJO 98/01(Revised 2005). Indian Jute Mills are comfortable to meet the current export demand of non-toxic, hydrocarbon free Jute products especially for packing cocoa, coffee beans, shelled nuts and related food products. Having stood the test of time, RBO based eco-fibre lubricant is now on its way to replace Jute Batching Oil in Jute fibre processing. 3.0 PART (B): ENZYME APPLICATION IN JUTE PROCESSING

Enzymes being the naturally occurring large protein molecules of tremendous

complexity are produced in vivo by living cells in plants, animals and microorganisms and are used to catalyze various bio-chemical reactions either to produce a novel product or an energy efficient eco-friendly process Technology. Major advantages of enzyme applications are i) it is eco-friendly & safe ii) works under mild conditions iii) very specific, efficient and effective in small quantities iv) amazing catalytic power, does not alter at the end of the reaction known as Bio-Catalyst v) save precious energy vi) replaces harsh chemicals. In an overall consideration the enzymes are the wonder products. Enzyme application, therefore, attracted attention in eco-friendly processing of textiles in general and jute in particular.

Industrial application of enzymes in textile sector started way back in 1857 and

gradually widened its area of application. Today, enzyme application has become an

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integral part of textile processing and with the increased awareness and regulation about the environment concerns, the enzymes are now become the obvious choice. In Jute and allied fibre processing limited application of enzymes initiated in 1970’s.

Indian Jute sector faced an acute shortage of good quality raw jute fibre and the main reason for the substandard quality has been identified as improper and incomplete retting of jute plant under water limiting conditions unlike Bangladesh. Until recently, the farmer’s motivation for production of higher grade jute was also not perceptible. The average grade of jute fibres obtained is characterized by a varying proportion of under retted barky root ends with runners and specks on the body. Such fibres are not suitable for production of finer count yarns of the desired quality at a high spinning efficiency. For gainful utilization of such average to low grade jute fibres , softening of barky root ends and improvement in overall quality of yarns and spinning performance , Indian Jute Industries’ Research Association ( IJIRA) developed , implemented and patented “ Eco-friendly enzyme based technology” for the benefit of the Jute sector. Multiple end uses of enzymes in Jute and allied fibre processing have been discussed in brief.

3.1 PRODUCTION OF FIBRE–SOFTENING ENZYMES

The fungus Aspergillus terreus (IJIRA 6.2) has been selected by IJIRA for its stable biochemical nature and it is grown on sterilized moist wheat bran under solid substrate fermentation. Wheat bran with 50 % added moisture is sterilized at a steam pressure of 25 p.s.i for one hour and subsequently inoculated with the fungus grown previously on sterile parboiled moistened rice and finally the inoculated bran is incubated at 300 C for 3 days for maturation of its growth. Aqueous extract of dried and fresh culture is used as the source of crude enzymes for the softening and cleaning of root cuttings and low grade jute fibres in mills. Enzyme mixture present in the aqueous extract is compatible with oil-in-water emulsion and the activity profile present in the aqueous extract of the dry mouldy bran culture of A. terreus (IJIRA 6.2) is summarized in Table 6.

Table 6: Enzyme profile of 10% aqueous extract of Aspergillus terreus (IJIRA 6.2)Sr. No. Enzyme Components Activity per ml of extract

1. Endo - β(1-4) Glucanase 80 -100 Units

2. Exo - β(1-4) Glucanase 30 Units

3. β - Glucosidase 90-95 Units

4. Jute Hemicellulase 50-80 Units

5. Pectinase 4-5 Units

Ref: J.Textile Institute, No.2, 108 -116, 1980

3.2 MULTIPLE FACETS OF ENZYME APPLICATION IN JUTE PROCESSING

I. Softening and cleaning of barky root ends of Jute

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II. Use of uncut Jute for batch economyIII. Enzymatic modification of TKP size pasteIV. Enzyme pretreatment for improved bleachingV. Bio-polishing of Jute fabric

3.3 ENZYME IN JUTE FIBRE UPGRADATION / BATCH ECONOMY

The thickened root ends of low grade jute fibres are under-retted barks comprising dried cells of parenchyma tissue held together by pectinaceous matter. During piling of the jute fibres both aerobic and anaerobic microbes present in jute plays a vital role in softening and cleaning of barky root ends and predominance of microbes varies with the ambience of jute pile (Table 7).

Application of enzymes called hydrolases in presence of moisture enhances catalytic degradation of specific carbohydrates such as cellulose, hemicellulose and pectins present in hard barky root ends. The synergistic effect of the two biological systems, enzymes and bacteria, brings about the ideal softening of barky tissue in a minimum period of piling. Enzyme application during jute piling causes accelerated maturation of pile Known as ‘accelerated softening’.

Table 7: Microbial profile in Jute piles during softening of barky root cuttings

Piling period( Hrs)

Temperaturein Mini Jute Pile

( 0C)

Bacterial Count / Gm. of Fibre Extent of Softening

Aerobic Anaerobic

24 50 70x106 - -

48 69 600x106 - Low

72 72 300x106 38x106 Moderate

96 54 29x106 280x106 Moderate

The enzyme system developed by IJIRA for upgradation of Jute fibres never ws

The enzyme system developed by IJIRA for upgradation of jute fibres never shows any perceptible damage to jute even when applied in relatively higher concentration and based on the observation while carrying out whole mill trials, an optimum limit of its concentration has been determined ( 2.0 units/ gm of fibre). Enzymatic softening of piled jute has been reported to be an outcome of controlled hydrolysis of the fibre matrix on the periphery of the filaments leading to smooth separation of the fibre filaments from the meshy structure during the subsequent carding operation. The resultant fleece is more lustrous and clean, so much so that slivers obtained from even lower grade fibres softened enzymatically can be spun at a significantly higher efficiency to produce better quality yarns. Effect of IJIRA enzyme on physical properties of jute fibre has been shown in Table 8.

Table 8: Enzyme action on Physical properties of TD3 Jute fibre

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Ref: Application of enzymes in the Jute Industry, Ed. Dr. B .L. Ghosh, IJIRA

SampleNo.

Enzyme concentration( Unit/ gm of

fibre)

Reducing sugar released

( mg/gm of fibre)

LinearDensity

( tex)

Bundle Tenacity( gf/tex)

Carding Resistance

( %)

Compressibility( %)

1. 0 0.149 2.24 19.0 100 1002. 0.5 0.216 2.16 18.8 86 1223. 1.0 0.387 1.90 18.4 76 1454. 2.0 0.456 1.69 18.6 70 1515. 3.0 0.498 1.63 15.9 66 208

Ref: J.Textile Institute, 91, No.1, 28-34, 2000

Effect of enzyme action on reduction of batch cost , spinning performance and yarn qualities have been reported after carrying out series of mill trials and representative data has been summarized in Table 9 & 10. Jute fibres in general contains 5 -7% roots and due to judicious application of enzymes it is possible to use uncut jute to spin even 8.0 lbs yarn without any noticeable problem suggesting gainful utilization of 100% long jute. Enzyme application thus indirectly increases the cost competitiveness of Jute products by reducing the batch cost by 15-20%.

Table 9: Enzyme application on reduction of batch composition

Batch composition (%)

Trial I Trial IIMill Normal Experimental Mill Normal Experimental

DTD3 50 33.3 - -

SNTD4 25 16.7 - -

DTD4 25 16.7 30.0 30.0

DTD5 * - 33.3 42.0 42.0

SNTD5 * - - 15.0 -

Cutting / Waste * - - 13.0 28.0

* Enzyme treated Table 10: Mill data - Yarn properties and spinning performance

Parameters Tested Trial I Trial IIMill Normal Experimental Mill Normal Experimental

Avg. Count( lbs/ spy) 8.20 8.24 10.5 10.4 Count CV% 4.20 3.72 6.5 5.7

Avg. Quality Ratio 90.2 89.6 84.0 84.4 Min. Quality Ratio 58.2 57.4 53.6 53.0 Avg. Strength CV% 17.6 17.4 18.4 18.8

Specks per mtr of Yarn ( Avg.100 )

0.32 0.34 0.36 0.40

3.4 ENZYME IN JUTE SIZING

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Jute yarns are conventionally sized with a thick cooked paste of tamarind kernel powder, however, it is observed that enzymatic modification of TKP size paste not only reduces the cost of cooking of size but also helps in rapid drying of sized yarns. Enzyme modification of size paste has been observed to reduce the viscosity of the size paste and improves yarn sizing and its overall quality. Effect of enzymes on sizing of jute yarns is presented in Table 11. Enzyme application in jute yarn sizing has been observed to improve the weaving efficiency by 2-3% and hence considered as an eco-process technology related to the reduction of cost of jute processing.

Table 11: Enzyme application on sizing of 8.0 lbs Jute Hessian warp Yarns

Parameters tested Unsized Yarns Cooked TKP sized yarns

Enzyme modified TKP sized yarns

Avg. Quality Ratio 86.7 100.6 104.2

Min. Quality Ratio 54.5 68.7 72.4

Strength CV% 18.8 17.4 16.6

Weaving Efficiency (%),40”-(11×12)-10 oz/yd

ND 58-60 60-63

Ref: 18th Technological Conference of IJIRA, 1995

3.5 ENZYME AS BLEACHING AID OF JUTE

The art of bleaching jute has received fresh attention in diversified jute products. Among various methods suggested, bleaching of jute with peroxide has proven attractive since fibers retain adequate strength with reduced health hazards and pollution. IJIRA developed a mixed enzyme based pretreatment procedure for enhancing the brightness of peroxide bleached jute. It has been observed that brightness index of bleached jute material is increased by 3% when pretreated with an enzyme mixture containing cellulase and xylanase (Table12). Enzyme pretreatment being an eco-friendly approach in jute bleaching thus can reduce the consumption of harsh bleaching chemicals in order to attain equivalent brightness.

Table 12: Physical properties of enzyme-pretreated jute after bleaching with peroxide

Jute Materials Sample Brightness percent

Strength Bulk Specific Vol. (cc/g)

Fibre Control 63.3 19.5 4.06Enz-pretreated 66.7 17.9 3.50

Yarn Control 58.7 2.77 4.25Enz-pretreated 61.8 2.55 3.78

Fabric Control 58.4 25.2 NDEnz-pretreated 61.5 23.4 ND

Strength is expressed: Fibre – g/tex, Yarn and Fabric – Kg.Ref: Textile Res. J., 61(2), 720-723, 1991

3.6 ENZYMES AS DEHAIRING AGENT OF JUTE

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Small fibre ends, called ‘fuzz’, projected from the surface of yarn give an unpleasant feel to all cellulosic fabrics. This problem has intensified with jute because of its inherent coarseness and rigidity of jute fuzz cause a pricking sensation. Upgradation of jute fabric means reduction of Fuzz, thus imparting smoothness as well as making the product soft. IJIRA has developed a Bio-polishing technique by using specific enzymes and improved the handle and appearance of Jute–Cotton union fabric. Effect of enzymatic bio-polishing on various fabric properties has been summarized in Table 13.

Table 13: Effect of Bio-polishing on Fabric properties

Treatment Bending length(cm)

Flexural Rigidity( mg-cm)

DrapeCo-efficient

( % )

Compressibility( % )

Warp Weft Warp WeftUntreated 21.1 50.0 185 - 81 28

Soap washed 19.5 49.0 158 2349 79 28

Soap washed + BP

15.5 44.0 85 1800 67 32

Bleached 18.0 46.5 118 2100 69 30

Bleached +BP 13.5 41.0 60 1620 65 33Ref: Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 21, 127-130, 1996

Diversified applications of enzymes starting from fibre upgradation to improvement in fabric properties clearly indicate that these eco-friendly applications are highly beneficial for jute and allied fibres and will find other avenues in the days to come.

4.0 PART (C): OPTIMUM MOISTURE RETENTION IN JUTE PROCESSING

Moisture relationship of Jute and their industrial significance are well known for their technical and commercial implications. Jute is a hygroscopic lignocellulosic bast fibre, however, exhibits a tendency to be in moisture equilibrium with the relative humidity of the surrounding atmosphere. Problems related to the retention of optimum moisture in Jute processing is generic in nature and observed particularly in low humid winter and dry summer. Inadequate moisture in jute processing adversely affects its operational efficiency, deteriorates yarn quality, reduces spinning performance, increases waste generation and ultimately affects overall productivity. Insufficient contract moisture in export yarn and in some diversified jute products leads to huge financial loss by the Jute industry during commercial transaction. Higher moisture in finished goods, on the other hand, invites microbial growth which in turn damages jute products. Hence retention of optimum moisture is very essential in jute processing.

Role of moisture in Jute processing is very critical as almost all the physico-chemical properties of jute fibres are affected by its moisture content and these improved fibre properties plays a significant role in the conversion of fibres into yarns and fabrics.

Some R&D efforts made earlier to resolve this issue were primarily based on the application of inorganic humectants but later on discontinued. To resolve this critical

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issue, IJIRA suggested a bio-chemical route based on specific organic polymers which are compatible to Oil-in-water emulsion. Judicious application of such organic humectants (e.g glycol derivatives) along with JBO or RBO etc. during jute softening has been observed to retain optimum moisture profile at various stages of processing in mill shop floor and found beneficial in spinning. Table 14&15 shows representative data on improved moisture profile at fibre and yarn stages respectively due to the application of Organic humectants.

Table 14: Improved Moisture profile in Jute Fibres by Organic humectants

Samples Moisture Regain (%) of Jute fibre at

50 % R.H 65 % R.H 80% R.H 97% R.H

Untreated Jute 9.6 12.3 16.4 34.4

Jute + OH 1 12.8 15.6 17.9 44.1

Jute + OH 2 14.9 19.2 23.2 52.4

OH: Organic humectants

Table 15: Improved properties of Jute yarns by Organic humectants (OH- 2)

Yarn parameters tested Mill Trial ( A )Dry Summer

Mill Trial ( B )Low humid Winter

Mill Normal Normal + OH

Mill Normal

Normal + OH

Avg. Count( lbs/ spy) 8.06 8.14 8.16 8.12

Count CV% 4.10 3.42 4.36 3.78 Avg. Quality Ratio 86.4 89.8 85.6 89.2

Min. Quality Ratio 56.2 59.4 55.6 60.2 Avg. Strength CV% 17.6 16.2 18.4 17.0

Moisture Regain (%) 11.4 15.6 10.5 14.4

5.0 Conclusion

Responding to the global eco-alertness and to meet market demands IJIRA developed three eco-friendly technologies as described above for eco-processing of Jute and allied fibres which improves not only the eco- character of jute products but also their cost competitiveness. For sustained growth of the Jute sector and eco-compliance of jute products, further development and intervention of such eco-friendly technologies would be the obvious choice.

Acknowledgement:

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The author expresses his thanks to International Jute Study Group (IJSG), Dhaka, Bangladesh, for organizing and sponsoring this one day International Seminar and inviting Indian Jute Industries’ Research Association (IJIRA), Kolkata, India, for making presentations on various challenging issues related to Jute and allied fibres. The author is also grateful to the Chairman, IJIRA and the Acting Director, IJIRA for giving permission to present this paper.

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