Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

76
ECO-FIBRES AND ECO- FRIENDLY TEXTILES R.B.CHAVAN DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILTECHNOLOGY INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI 110016

Transcript of Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Page 1: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ECO-FIBRES AND ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILES

R.B.CHAVANDEPARTMENT OF TEXTILTECHNOLOGY

INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI 110016

Page 2: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY

CRADLE TO GRAVE NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLYRAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES, PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSALMEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDSECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO LABLESWOMB TO TOMB

•GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST

Page 3: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

THREE ECOLOGIES

•PRODDUCTION ECOLOGY

•USER ECOLOGY

•DISPOSAL ECOLOGY

Page 4: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

USER AND DISPOSAL ECOLOGY

•USER ECOLOGY REFERS TO• AESTHETICS

•PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS •EFFECTS OF TEXTILES ON HUMAN BODY.

•DISPOSAL ECOLOGY REFERS TO •DISPOSAL OF TEXTILES AFTER USE

•RECYCLING, •COMPOSTING,

•DUMPING, •INCINERATION

•LEAST POSSIBLE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT .

Page 5: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

PRODUCTION ECOLOGY

COMPRISES OF

•CULTIVATION AND HARVESTING OF NATURAL FIBRES

•THE MANUFACTURE OF REGENERATED AND SYNTHETIC FIBRES

• SPINNING, WEAVING, KNITTING

•TEXTILE CHEMICAL PROCESSING

•GARMENT MANUFACTURE

•PACKING

Page 6: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ECO FIBRES

–CONVENTIONAL COTTON–CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO

FRIENDLY– USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND

VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.

–INHALATION DURING HANDLING AND SPRAY APPLICATION-HEALTH HAZARDS

–PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS

–WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

–WATER POLLUTION

Page 7: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

KING COTTON

COTTON BUD

COTTON

FLOWER

Page 8: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides

Chemical Name

Agri. Use Human Toxicity

Environ. Toxicity

Chlorpynfos Insects Brain and fetal damage, impotence, sterility.

Bees, birds, crustaceans,&mollu

sks

Cyanazine Weeds Birth defects,

cancer. Bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish.

Dicofol Mites, insecticide.

Cancer, reproductive damage, tumors

Aquatic insects, birds, & fish

Ethephon Plant growth regulator

Mutations. Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish.

Page 9: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides

Chemical Name

Agri. Use Human Toxicity

Environ. Toxicity

Metam Sodium

Insects, nematodes, fungus, weeds.

Birth defects, fetal damage,

mutations

Bees & fish.

Methyl Parathion

Insecticide. Birth defects, fetal damage, reproductive & immune system.

Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish.

Profenofos Insecticide & miticide.

Eye damage, skin irritant.

Birds, bees, & fish.

Prometryn Herbicide. Bone marrow, kidney, liver, testicular damage.

Bees, birds, crustaceans, fish, & mollusks.

Page 10: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides

Chemical Name

Agri. Use Human Toxicity

Environ. Toxicity

Propargite Miticide. Cancer, Fetal & eye damage, mutations, tumors.

Bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish.

Sodium Chlorate

Leaf drop & weeds.

Kidney damage & methemoglobinemia

Birds & fish.

Tribufos Leaf drop. Cancer, tumors.

Birds & fish.

Trifluralin Herbicide. Cancer, fetal damage, teratogen, suspect mutagen.

Amphibians, aquatic insects, bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish.

Page 11: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

It takes one pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to

conventionally grow the three pounds of cotton needed to

make a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.

Page 12: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

COTTON SUICIDES-INDIA•Excerpted from "Cotton, Pesticides and Suicides," by Jitedra Verma,

posted in the Earth Island On-line Journal. Verma is a reporter for Down to Earth magazine (Centre for science and environment

•"Since the beginning of the new year, not a single day has passed

without one cotton farmer committing suicide," says a farmer in

Warangal, where almost the entire standing cotton crop has been

devastated, placing communities on the brink of starvation. Faced with a

raging attack on the cotton crop by Spodoptera litura (tobacco cutworm)

and Heliothis armigera (American bollworm), frantic Andhra Pradesh

farmers were sitting ducks for pesticide suppliers offering to sell

pesticides on credit. But the indiscriminate application of pesticides only

led to increased resistance in pests. While pests continued to ravage

crops, expenses mounted and the noose tightened.

Page 13: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

beneath cotton's natural fiber lies a long chain of chemically-intensive,

"unnatural" processes. 

To bring this delicate plant to harvest, it is heavily sprayed - 8 to 10 times a

season - with pesticides so poisonous

they gradually render fields barren.  And that's just the beginning. 

To create finished goods, fabrics are often colored with toxic dyes and

finished with formaldehyde.  

Need for organic cotton

Page 14: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Like most technologies, pesticides are not neutral. 

  Yet many people insist that they can behave selectively, wiping out undesirable elements and

leaving others unharmed.   

The list of tragic accidents involving chemicals used on cotton, however, is lengthy. 

  The 1984 gas leak at the Union Carbide factory

in Bhopal, India - which included chemicals used on cotton - speaks to the question of

pollution during manufacturing.  An estimated 25 million people worldwide are

poisoned by pesticides every year, which translates to 48 per minute. 

It is almost universally agreed that pesticide

exposure heightens the risk of cancer.

Page 15: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

So much is made of the economic advantages of pesticides by chemical

companies interested in sales But little is said of the hidden costs, the contamination of soil and ground water,

as well as the negative effects on farmers, farm workers and wildlife.

Organic agriculture offers the choice to

Because the hidden costs of conventional agriculture will eventually surface

Page 16: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

As frightening as it might seem in the face of crop loss, organic farmers maintain a balance of

"good" and "bad" bugs.  They depend upon beneficial

insects to become parasites or predators on the pests that could

destroy their cotton.  Beneficials can be released in

case of infestations, but it's best to have them permanently residing

on the farm. Once a farmer applies pesticides

to a field, however, beneficials are usually eliminated, triggering the

need for repeated spraying throughout the season.  One of the organic farmer's

friends. A 'Catolaccus grandis' parasitizing a boll weevil larva

Page 17: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic food now symbolizes the highest and freshest quality available.

Suppliers of organic cotton are not far behind. 

If we are really concerned about environmental issues today,

our ideas of excellent product design must include impact on the earth. 

Yet so much of this environmental quality might not be immediately

visible to the naked eye.

We have to see beyond the clothes themselves and look to the

landscapes - the air, water, soil and wilderness - where the real

differences are made.

Page 18: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING

FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS

(ORGANIC FARMING) RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING

FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO

FRIENDLY INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON

ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

Page 19: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ORGANIC COTTON CULTIVATION

CLEANER APPROACH•Organic farmers use biologically-based rather than chemically-

dependent growing systems to raise crops.

Soil •Organic farming starts with the soil. Compost, frequent crop rotations and cover crop strategies replace synthetic fertilizers to keep the soil healthy and productive. Fields must be free of synthetically-derived

chemicals for three years to achieve organic certification.

Weed Control •Weeds are controlled by innovative farm machinery, hand labor or

flame devices rather than herbicide applications.

Page 20: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ORGANIC COTTON CULTIVATION

Insect Pests

Rather than attempting to eradicate all insects with

chemicals, organic farmers cultivate a diversity of natural

enemies which prey on insect pests, and lure pests away

from cotton by planting trap crops. Insect pests can be

effectively kept in balance with well-timed introduction of

beneficial insects to fields.

Page 21: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic cotton certification

INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION FOR ORGANIC AGRICULTURE MOVEMENT [IFOAM]

has formulated standards and guidelines for

organic cotton cultivation and are

followed by many labelling agencies to certify

organic cotton and other farm produce.

Page 22: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Merits of organic cotton cultivation

Environmentally Friendly Technology

Reduction in Cost of Cultivation

Management of Insecticide Resistance

Page 23: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

INDIAN COTTONIndia is the third largest producer of cotton

Percentage of agriculture land under cotton production in India:

5 per cent (8.9 million hectares)

Percentage of total pesticide used for cotton cultivation:

54 per cent

cotton makes for 70 per cent of the textile sector's raw material

Organic cotton in Indian

Organic cotton production in india makes for not even a miniscule percentage of the total cotton production. and while production of insecticide-intentsive cotton farming hits a platuea, organic cotton

production is yet to pick up

Page 24: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic cotton in IndiaFive to seven decades ago, most of the cotton cultivated in the country was ‘eco-friendly’ with little or no use of toxic

chemicals in its production.

Even today, there are many pockets in India, where it is produced without the use of agrochemicals, e.g., areas growing Wagad cotton in Gujarat, Y-1 desi

areas growing Wagad cotton in Gujarat, Y-1 desi cotton of Khandesh region of Maharashtra,

Maljari in Madhya Pradesh,

part of areas growing Jayadhar and Suyodhar in Karnataka

Nandicum in Andhra Pradesh and

parts of cotton areas in north eastern hill region.

Page 25: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final
Page 26: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Vidarbha organic farmers Association(VOFA

1993 Visit of Envirnmental Protection Encouragement Agency (EPEA) Hamburg Germany to Central Cotton Research Institute, (CICR) Nagpur

To confirm organic cotton farming in Vidarbha EPEA confirmed organic cotton in Vidarbha

EPEA confirmed organic cotton in Vidarbha

•1994 Organization of 135 farmers from five districts Nagpur, Wardha,

Yavatmal, Amravati and Akola

•1995 commitment of 12,00 hectares land for organic cotton cultivation

1995 Formation of Vidarbha Organic Farmers Association

1996 Bumper crop of organic cotton

Page 27: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Present status of VOFA

350 Members

90 Practicing organic farmers

3500 Acres area under organic cotton farming

Purchaser: Fare Trade Company Japan

Page 28: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Volauntary organizations in organic cotton

production

VOFA (VIDARBHA ORGANIC FARMERS ASSOCIATION), MOFA (MAHARASHTRA ORGANIC FARMERS

ASSOCIATION), SHRIDA-BIORE etc. have been formed either by farmers groups interested in

organic cotton cultivation or to assist such groups by offering technical assistance.

yield level of 500-750 kg/ha. The technological properties of various cultivators grown

under the organic cultivation such as micronaire (3.8-5.0),

span length (25.5-29.9 mm) and fibre maturity parameters

similar to fibres produced by conventional methods

Page 29: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Maikaal bioRe Ltd.

Madhya PradeshMaikaal bioRe Ltd, which claims to be the largest organic

cotton venture in the world,

in Bheelaon, Madhya Pradesh

has over 1,000 farmers involved in organic cotton production

The production of organic cotton started in 1991 as a private

initiative of Mrigendra Jalan, Managing Director of the spinning mill,

Maikaal Fibres Ltd, and

•Patrick Hohmann, Managing Director of the Swiss cotton yarn trading company, Remei AG

Page 30: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic cotton production in India

14-15 lakh bales of uncertified organc cotton (Cotton

corporation of India)

Estimated certified organic cotton 1000

Total world production 8150

15% of total world production

37% Asian countries production

Page 31: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic cotton India conventional cotton India

Organic cotton World

production

Page 32: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECTCalifornia's Central Valley

Page 33: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ORGANIC COTTON

SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECT

Page 34: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ORGANIC COTTON REDUCTION IN AGROCHEMICALS

Page 35: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)

Country 1992 1993

1994 1995

1996 1997

Argentina 2 120 126 132 70

Australia 479 500 750 400 500 400

Benin 5

Brazil 2 9 1 5 5

Egypt 38 141 598 600 650 630

Greece 450 500 475 400

India 206 268 398 928 900 900

Page 36: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)

Country 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997

Israel 100 100 50

Mozambique 90 90 50

Nicaragua 16 20 20 20

Paraguay 100 75 50 50 50

Peru' 400 700 924 1516 1500 650

Turkey 2 20 30

Tanzania 33 100 100 200

Page 37: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)

Country1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997

Uganda 16 150 250 300 800

USA 2155 4274 5365 7425 3396 2852

Zambia 35 30 30

Zimbabway 5

Total 3408 6201 9498 12864 9028 7967

Page 38: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic T shirtorganic sweat

shirtorgnic terry robe

Organic fashion wear

Organic night gown

Organic slippers

Page 39: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Earth Friendly Fashions

Simplify Life, Relax Your Mind, Calm Your Soul, Open Your Heart.

Experience Fisher Henney Naturals

Page 40: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic cotton body wear

Organic cotton apparel

Page 41: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Organic cotton apparels

Page 42: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final
Page 43: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

COTTON THAT GROWS WITH NATURAL COLOURS DURING CULTIVATION

BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED COTTONS KNOWN SINCE TIME IMEMORIAL

IN INDIA

Page 44: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

NON POPULARITY OF COLOURED COTTON

LOW YIELD

SEED AVAILABILITY

LOW FINENESS, LOW STAPLE LENGTH

LOW STRENGTH

POOR SPINNABILITY

LOW YARN AND FABRIC QUALITY

LIMITED COLOUR RANGE

CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON

Page 45: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION WAVE

IMPETUS TO THE CULTIVATION OF NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

SHADES

PISTA GREEN AND ALMOND BROWN MOST COMMON

OTHER SHADES

CREAM

PINK

MAUVE

COUNTRIES

INDIA

USA

ISRAEL

CHINAPERU

Page 46: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

IMPORTANT ASPECTS

EARLIER

LOW FIBRE LENGTH, POOR SPINNABILITY

YARN SPINNING OF 10 TO 12s COUNT

RESEARCH INPUTS

IMPROVED FIBRE QUALITY

POSSIBLE TO SPIN YARNS OF 30 AND 40s COUNT

SUITABLE FOR WEAVING AND KNITTING

IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS

GREEN VARIETY TURNS BROWN IF NOT HARVESTED ON RIPENING

BROWN VARIETY DARKENS WITH AGE AND EXPOSURE TO LIGHT

GREEN AND BRWON DARKEN ON LAUNDERING

NOT FAST TO BLEACHING

Page 47: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

COTTON CORPORATION OF INDIA AND CENTRAL COTTON RESEARCH INSTITUTE NAGPUR

1996-97 INVESTMENT Rs. 80 LAKHS

CULTIVATION OF COLOURED COTTON AT

KHANDWA, MADHYA PRADESH

DHARWAD, KARNATAKA

PROJECT DID NOT SUCEED DUE TO POOR MARKET RESPONSE

DEMAND OF HIGH PRICE BY FARMERS

MAJOR PROBLEM

CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTO FIELDS

NECESSARY TO HAVE SEPARATE AREA FOR COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION

Page 48: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

MEANS TO OVERCOME TECHNICAL PROBLEMS

LOW STRENGTH AND POOR SPINNABILITY

BLENDING 30-50% OF WHITE COTTON WITH COLOURED COTTON

CHANGE OF SHADE ON LAUNDERING

ON LAUNDERING SHADE BECOMES DEEPER

ALKALINE SCOURING STABILIZES THE SHADE CHANGE

POOR BLEACHING FASTNESS

DO NOT BLEACH

Page 49: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Dr. B.M. Khadi at the University of Agriculture Science Dharwad

developed

Brown, Green and cream coloured cotton

Seeds available for cultivation

Till 1960 coloured cotton grown in some parts of India was exported to

Japan

Coloured cotton is insect and desease resistant and also drought tolerent

Innovation failed to take market place

Page 50: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

The Cottton Project at the college of agriculture, Khandwa is engaged in research to boost the production and productivity of

coloured cotton

In 1996, the centre has been successful in developing a variety of cotton which produces seed cotton having natural almond

brown colour (JCC-1).

There is a vast scope in this direction as such a genotypes will avoid the use of synthetic dyes

the demand of organically grown cotton is increasing very fast.

Some more colours are being developed

Page 51: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Rocklea spinning Mills in collaboration with Australian farmers introduced range of yarns from brown and green

varieties of cotton

Blending of coloured cotton with white cotton in diffferent proporations produce shade

varieties

Australia

Page 52: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

In Australia, Jeff & Marilyn Bidstrup, pioneered Australian

coloured cotton,

When blended, this cotton produces a beautiful "Sand Dune"

colour, ideal for our first EcoDownUnder towels.

The Bidstrups are leading the industry with Landcare Australia

awards and minimising their impact on the environment through "dry

land farming" rather than irrigating.

Environmental management by rotating cotton crops every 3

seasons and no harsh chemicals applied to their land for over 3

years has seen yields become some of the highest in the industry.

Page 53: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

NATIVE COLOUR COTTON PROJECT

PERU

•COMMENCED IN 1984 TO DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY TO SUPPORT

INDIGENOUS FARMERS AND TRADITIONAL ARTISANS

•15000 FARDMERS CULTIVATE COLOURED COTTON

•50000 WOMEN INVOLVED IN TRADITIONAL HAND SPINNING AND

HAND WEAVING•COLOURED COTTON IS PRODUCED WITHOUT THE USE OF SYNTHETIC

FERTILIZERS AND PESTICIDES•COTTON PLANT GROWS UP TO 5

METERS HIGHYIELD 10 KG PER PLANT

•REMARKABLY RESISTANT TO PEST AND DISEASES

•THRIVES IN MARGINAL SOILS WITH LITTLE OR NO RAIN FALL

Page 54: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

PRE-HISPANIC GRAVE in the Chancay Valley of Peru is heaped with naturally colored cotton bolls.  The ancient people of this coastal area filled the body of the deceased with the cotton, which would absorb the bodily fluids, thereby aiding in the process of mummification.  The arid sands of the region preserved the cotton (which was removed from the body when this grave was looted.)

Page 55: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

SIX PRINCIPLE COLOUR

VARIETIES

CREAM

Pista green

MEDIUM BROWN

REDDISH BROWN

CHOCOLATE BROWN

MAUVE

Brown verities possess anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties

COFFEE FILTERS MADE FROM CERTIFIED ORGANIC COLOURED COTTON FREE FROM

PESTIFCIDES, BLEACHES ANDSYNTHETIC COLOURS

Natural coloured yarns and fabrics are certified by SKAL, Dutch certifying agency

Page 56: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

PERUVIAN TAPESTRY from A.D. 1000 depicts a cotton plant complete with roots, leaves, stems, flowers and ripening cotton bolls spilling forth with naturally pigmented cotton

Four species of cotton have different lint lengths.

COTTON HARVESTING is done by hand in Peru

Page 57: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Women then sort the cotton, also by hand, for color and quality.

Traditional spinning bowl

LINT FIBER greatly enlarged reveals the natural twist   The dark masses impart the natural color.

Page 58: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Coloured cotton bolls are hand picked

Small quantity is used for craft production and domestic consumption in rural market.

Large quantity is consumed in uraban market as

textile products

Medical remedy for over fifty somatic and psychosomatic disorders

Colour cotton cultivation by traditional farmers is officially protected

Large number of traditional farmers are immensely benefited

No patents are held on native colored cotton, respecting and promoting the crop

protection rights of the indigenous   people of Peru.

Page 59: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Today Indian descendants of ancient Peruvian cultures still harvest, gin and spin by hand the natural colored cottons of Peru.

Page 60: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Slivers of coloured cotton

Page 61: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Naturally coloured yarn for Kniting and Weaving

Page 62: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Coloured cotton fabrics

Page 63: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

COTTON CLOTHES in naturally occurring colors are produced in Peru

Page 64: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Sally Fox was introduced to colored cotton while

working for a cotton breeder, whose focus was

developing pest-resistant strains of cotton.

The peoples of Central and South America had spun

these strains for centuries, but the fiber qualities were

not sufficient for modern machine spinning.

Here was Sally Fox’s opportunity to combine her

concern for the environment,

work in her field of entomology,

and practice her favorite pastime, spinning and weaving

Page 65: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Sally Fox in 1982 took on the challenge of improving an ancient agricultural art.

Fox successfully bred and marketed varieties of naturally coloured cotton she calls FoxFiber ®.

Today, Sally Fox designs fabrics with her cotton and continues research.

Fox has received a patent and three Plant Variety Protection Certificates for her naturally colored cottons which, in addition to browns, she now grows in reds and greens.

Her invention has been so popular it has sprouted two successful companies -- Vreseis, Ltd. and Natural Cotton Colours, both operating in Arizona.

Page 66: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Natural qualities found in Fox Fibre:Furnish lasting color; repeated washings intensify colors bringing out the warm and rich color tones

Enable our cottons to be spun from 100% solid color

to any percentage of color blends. Blends of Fox Fibre colors (with each other or with white) can

create all of the color shades within the beige, khaki, brown, red brown, dark brown, and green color

spectrums

Provide a fire retardant tendency

Eliminate the need for bleaches, dyes, & other costly processes during textile and product manufacturing

Page 67: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Sally Fox is associted with Athena Mills Arizona

Athena Mills is recognized as a leader for two environmentally descriptive trademarks - Colorganic® and Colour-By-Nature®.

Both marks ensure the final product's color is from naturally colored cotton.

Colorganic additionally ensures certified organic growing practices for all of the cotton fibers in the final product.

Fox Fibre offers consumers an ecological alternative in cotton: today's purchase for tomorrow's environment

Page 68: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final
Page 69: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ECO LABELS

Eco-labels are product labels that

inform consumers about the environmental impact of a

product. They encourage producers to switch to environmentally sound production

process methods (PPMs) for advantage in the marketplace. Eco-labels allow producers to

differentiate their products from products that are less

environmentally friendly and

thus to reach environmentally conscious consumers. 

Page 70: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final
Page 71: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final
Page 72: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ECO LABEL CRITERIA

ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLINESS OF THE ENTIRE LIFE CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT

CRADLE TO GRAVE ASSESSMENT

1. Production of raw materials

2. Production of the end product

3. Packaging and transport of raw

materials and the finished product

4. Use of the product by companies and

consumers

5. Disposal of the product

e.g. assessment of a T-shirt starts in the

cotton field and ends in the incineration

plant.

Page 73: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

ECO LABEL CRITERIA

•As little use as possible of chemical substances harmful to the environment

•No or very few heavy metals in the product

•Energy conservation during production and use

•The lowest possible amounts of harmful

substances in wastewater

•Requirements which ensure that the product works well and will last long

Opportunities for recycling/reuse

•The product should be as unproblematic as

possible in terms of waste

Page 74: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

POTENTIALLY HARMFUL SUBSTANCES

pH

Formaldehyde

Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni,

Hg)

Pesticides Chlorinated phenols

Dyestuffs (specific classifications)

Chlorinated organic carriers

Boicidal finishes

Flame retardent finishes

Colour fastness

Emission of volatiles

Odours

Page 75: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Republic of China–TaiwanGreen Mark

Thailand (Thai Green Label

Korea Environmental

Labelling

Japan Eco Mark

India Eco MarkAustralia/New Zealand Environmental ChoiceEuropean Union Eco-label “Flower”

scheme

Page 76: Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final

Nordic Countries (Nordic Swan )

Austrian Eco-label

Croatia (Environmental Label)

Netherland Ecolabel Foundation