Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final
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Transcript of Eco fibres and ecofriendly textiles ms univ. 21.2.04 final
ECO-FIBRES AND ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILES
R.B.CHAVANDEPARTMENT OF TEXTILTECHNOLOGY
INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI 110016
PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY
CRADLE TO GRAVE NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLYRAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES, PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSALMEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDSECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO LABLESWOMB TO TOMB
•GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST
THREE ECOLOGIES
•PRODDUCTION ECOLOGY
•USER ECOLOGY
•DISPOSAL ECOLOGY
USER AND DISPOSAL ECOLOGY
•USER ECOLOGY REFERS TO• AESTHETICS
•PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS •EFFECTS OF TEXTILES ON HUMAN BODY.
•DISPOSAL ECOLOGY REFERS TO •DISPOSAL OF TEXTILES AFTER USE
•RECYCLING, •COMPOSTING,
•DUMPING, •INCINERATION
•LEAST POSSIBLE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT .
PRODUCTION ECOLOGY
COMPRISES OF
•CULTIVATION AND HARVESTING OF NATURAL FIBRES
•THE MANUFACTURE OF REGENERATED AND SYNTHETIC FIBRES
• SPINNING, WEAVING, KNITTING
•TEXTILE CHEMICAL PROCESSING
•GARMENT MANUFACTURE
•PACKING
ECO FIBRES
–CONVENTIONAL COTTON–CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY– USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND
VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
–INHALATION DURING HANDLING AND SPRAY APPLICATION-HEALTH HAZARDS
–PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS
–WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES
–WATER POLLUTION
KING COTTON
COTTON BUD
COTTON
FLOWER
Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides
Chemical Name
Agri. Use Human Toxicity
Environ. Toxicity
Chlorpynfos Insects Brain and fetal damage, impotence, sterility.
Bees, birds, crustaceans,&mollu
sks
Cyanazine Weeds Birth defects,
cancer. Bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish.
Dicofol Mites, insecticide.
Cancer, reproductive damage, tumors
Aquatic insects, birds, & fish
Ethephon Plant growth regulator
Mutations. Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish.
Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides
Chemical Name
Agri. Use Human Toxicity
Environ. Toxicity
Metam Sodium
Insects, nematodes, fungus, weeds.
Birth defects, fetal damage,
mutations
Bees & fish.
Methyl Parathion
Insecticide. Birth defects, fetal damage, reproductive & immune system.
Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish.
Profenofos Insecticide & miticide.
Eye damage, skin irritant.
Birds, bees, & fish.
Prometryn Herbicide. Bone marrow, kidney, liver, testicular damage.
Bees, birds, crustaceans, fish, & mollusks.
Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides
Chemical Name
Agri. Use Human Toxicity
Environ. Toxicity
Propargite Miticide. Cancer, Fetal & eye damage, mutations, tumors.
Bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish.
Sodium Chlorate
Leaf drop & weeds.
Kidney damage & methemoglobinemia
Birds & fish.
Tribufos Leaf drop. Cancer, tumors.
Birds & fish.
Trifluralin Herbicide. Cancer, fetal damage, teratogen, suspect mutagen.
Amphibians, aquatic insects, bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish.
It takes one pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to
conventionally grow the three pounds of cotton needed to
make a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.
COTTON SUICIDES-INDIA•Excerpted from "Cotton, Pesticides and Suicides," by Jitedra Verma,
posted in the Earth Island On-line Journal. Verma is a reporter for Down to Earth magazine (Centre for science and environment
•"Since the beginning of the new year, not a single day has passed
without one cotton farmer committing suicide," says a farmer in
Warangal, where almost the entire standing cotton crop has been
devastated, placing communities on the brink of starvation. Faced with a
raging attack on the cotton crop by Spodoptera litura (tobacco cutworm)
and Heliothis armigera (American bollworm), frantic Andhra Pradesh
farmers were sitting ducks for pesticide suppliers offering to sell
pesticides on credit. But the indiscriminate application of pesticides only
led to increased resistance in pests. While pests continued to ravage
crops, expenses mounted and the noose tightened.
beneath cotton's natural fiber lies a long chain of chemically-intensive,
"unnatural" processes.
To bring this delicate plant to harvest, it is heavily sprayed - 8 to 10 times a
season - with pesticides so poisonous
they gradually render fields barren. And that's just the beginning.
To create finished goods, fabrics are often colored with toxic dyes and
finished with formaldehyde.
Need for organic cotton
Like most technologies, pesticides are not neutral.
Yet many people insist that they can behave selectively, wiping out undesirable elements and
leaving others unharmed.
The list of tragic accidents involving chemicals used on cotton, however, is lengthy.
The 1984 gas leak at the Union Carbide factory
in Bhopal, India - which included chemicals used on cotton - speaks to the question of
pollution during manufacturing. An estimated 25 million people worldwide are
poisoned by pesticides every year, which translates to 48 per minute.
It is almost universally agreed that pesticide
exposure heightens the risk of cancer.
So much is made of the economic advantages of pesticides by chemical
companies interested in sales But little is said of the hidden costs, the contamination of soil and ground water,
as well as the negative effects on farmers, farm workers and wildlife.
Organic agriculture offers the choice to
Because the hidden costs of conventional agriculture will eventually surface
As frightening as it might seem in the face of crop loss, organic farmers maintain a balance of
"good" and "bad" bugs. They depend upon beneficial
insects to become parasites or predators on the pests that could
destroy their cotton. Beneficials can be released in
case of infestations, but it's best to have them permanently residing
on the farm. Once a farmer applies pesticides
to a field, however, beneficials are usually eliminated, triggering the
need for repeated spraying throughout the season. One of the organic farmer's
friends. A 'Catolaccus grandis' parasitizing a boll weevil larva
Organic food now symbolizes the highest and freshest quality available.
Suppliers of organic cotton are not far behind.
If we are really concerned about environmental issues today,
our ideas of excellent product design must include impact on the earth.
Yet so much of this environmental quality might not be immediately
visible to the naked eye.
We have to see beyond the clothes themselves and look to the
landscapes - the air, water, soil and wilderness - where the real
differences are made.
COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING
FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS
(ORGANIC FARMING) RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING
FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO
FRIENDLY INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON
ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
ORGANIC COTTON CULTIVATION
CLEANER APPROACH•Organic farmers use biologically-based rather than chemically-
dependent growing systems to raise crops.
Soil •Organic farming starts with the soil. Compost, frequent crop rotations and cover crop strategies replace synthetic fertilizers to keep the soil healthy and productive. Fields must be free of synthetically-derived
chemicals for three years to achieve organic certification.
Weed Control •Weeds are controlled by innovative farm machinery, hand labor or
flame devices rather than herbicide applications.
ORGANIC COTTON CULTIVATION
Insect Pests
Rather than attempting to eradicate all insects with
chemicals, organic farmers cultivate a diversity of natural
enemies which prey on insect pests, and lure pests away
from cotton by planting trap crops. Insect pests can be
effectively kept in balance with well-timed introduction of
beneficial insects to fields.
Organic cotton certification
INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION FOR ORGANIC AGRICULTURE MOVEMENT [IFOAM]
has formulated standards and guidelines for
organic cotton cultivation and are
followed by many labelling agencies to certify
organic cotton and other farm produce.
Merits of organic cotton cultivation
Environmentally Friendly Technology
Reduction in Cost of Cultivation
Management of Insecticide Resistance
INDIAN COTTONIndia is the third largest producer of cotton
Percentage of agriculture land under cotton production in India:
5 per cent (8.9 million hectares)
Percentage of total pesticide used for cotton cultivation:
54 per cent
cotton makes for 70 per cent of the textile sector's raw material
Organic cotton in Indian
Organic cotton production in india makes for not even a miniscule percentage of the total cotton production. and while production of insecticide-intentsive cotton farming hits a platuea, organic cotton
production is yet to pick up
Organic cotton in IndiaFive to seven decades ago, most of the cotton cultivated in the country was ‘eco-friendly’ with little or no use of toxic
chemicals in its production.
Even today, there are many pockets in India, where it is produced without the use of agrochemicals, e.g., areas growing Wagad cotton in Gujarat, Y-1 desi
areas growing Wagad cotton in Gujarat, Y-1 desi cotton of Khandesh region of Maharashtra,
Maljari in Madhya Pradesh,
part of areas growing Jayadhar and Suyodhar in Karnataka
Nandicum in Andhra Pradesh and
parts of cotton areas in north eastern hill region.
Vidarbha organic farmers Association(VOFA
1993 Visit of Envirnmental Protection Encouragement Agency (EPEA) Hamburg Germany to Central Cotton Research Institute, (CICR) Nagpur
To confirm organic cotton farming in Vidarbha EPEA confirmed organic cotton in Vidarbha
EPEA confirmed organic cotton in Vidarbha
•1994 Organization of 135 farmers from five districts Nagpur, Wardha,
Yavatmal, Amravati and Akola
•1995 commitment of 12,00 hectares land for organic cotton cultivation
1995 Formation of Vidarbha Organic Farmers Association
1996 Bumper crop of organic cotton
Present status of VOFA
350 Members
90 Practicing organic farmers
3500 Acres area under organic cotton farming
Purchaser: Fare Trade Company Japan
Volauntary organizations in organic cotton
production
VOFA (VIDARBHA ORGANIC FARMERS ASSOCIATION), MOFA (MAHARASHTRA ORGANIC FARMERS
ASSOCIATION), SHRIDA-BIORE etc. have been formed either by farmers groups interested in
organic cotton cultivation or to assist such groups by offering technical assistance.
yield level of 500-750 kg/ha. The technological properties of various cultivators grown
under the organic cultivation such as micronaire (3.8-5.0),
span length (25.5-29.9 mm) and fibre maturity parameters
similar to fibres produced by conventional methods
Maikaal bioRe Ltd.
Madhya PradeshMaikaal bioRe Ltd, which claims to be the largest organic
cotton venture in the world,
in Bheelaon, Madhya Pradesh
has over 1,000 farmers involved in organic cotton production
The production of organic cotton started in 1991 as a private
initiative of Mrigendra Jalan, Managing Director of the spinning mill,
Maikaal Fibres Ltd, and
•Patrick Hohmann, Managing Director of the Swiss cotton yarn trading company, Remei AG
Organic cotton production in India
14-15 lakh bales of uncertified organc cotton (Cotton
corporation of India)
Estimated certified organic cotton 1000
Total world production 8150
15% of total world production
37% Asian countries production
Organic cotton India conventional cotton India
Organic cotton World
production
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECTCalifornia's Central Valley
ORGANIC COTTON
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECT
ORGANIC COTTON REDUCTION IN AGROCHEMICALS
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country 1992 1993
1994 1995
1996 1997
Argentina 2 120 126 132 70
Australia 479 500 750 400 500 400
Benin 5
Brazil 2 9 1 5 5
Egypt 38 141 598 600 650 630
Greece 450 500 475 400
India 206 268 398 928 900 900
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Israel 100 100 50
Mozambique 90 90 50
Nicaragua 16 20 20 20
Paraguay 100 75 50 50 50
Peru' 400 700 924 1516 1500 650
Turkey 2 20 30
Tanzania 33 100 100 200
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Uganda 16 150 250 300 800
USA 2155 4274 5365 7425 3396 2852
Zambia 35 30 30
Zimbabway 5
Total 3408 6201 9498 12864 9028 7967
Organic T shirtorganic sweat
shirtorgnic terry robe
Organic fashion wear
Organic night gown
Organic slippers
Earth Friendly Fashions
Simplify Life, Relax Your Mind, Calm Your Soul, Open Your Heart.
Experience Fisher Henney Naturals
Organic cotton body wear
Organic cotton apparel
Organic cotton apparels
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
COTTON THAT GROWS WITH NATURAL COLOURS DURING CULTIVATION
BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED COTTONS KNOWN SINCE TIME IMEMORIAL
IN INDIA
NON POPULARITY OF COLOURED COTTON
LOW YIELD
SEED AVAILABILITY
LOW FINENESS, LOW STAPLE LENGTH
LOW STRENGTH
POOR SPINNABILITY
LOW YARN AND FABRIC QUALITY
LIMITED COLOUR RANGE
CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON
ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION WAVE
IMPETUS TO THE CULTIVATION OF NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
SHADES
PISTA GREEN AND ALMOND BROWN MOST COMMON
OTHER SHADES
CREAM
PINK
MAUVE
COUNTRIES
INDIA
USA
ISRAEL
CHINAPERU
IMPORTANT ASPECTS
EARLIER
LOW FIBRE LENGTH, POOR SPINNABILITY
YARN SPINNING OF 10 TO 12s COUNT
RESEARCH INPUTS
IMPROVED FIBRE QUALITY
POSSIBLE TO SPIN YARNS OF 30 AND 40s COUNT
SUITABLE FOR WEAVING AND KNITTING
IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS
GREEN VARIETY TURNS BROWN IF NOT HARVESTED ON RIPENING
BROWN VARIETY DARKENS WITH AGE AND EXPOSURE TO LIGHT
GREEN AND BRWON DARKEN ON LAUNDERING
NOT FAST TO BLEACHING
COTTON CORPORATION OF INDIA AND CENTRAL COTTON RESEARCH INSTITUTE NAGPUR
1996-97 INVESTMENT Rs. 80 LAKHS
CULTIVATION OF COLOURED COTTON AT
KHANDWA, MADHYA PRADESH
DHARWAD, KARNATAKA
PROJECT DID NOT SUCEED DUE TO POOR MARKET RESPONSE
DEMAND OF HIGH PRICE BY FARMERS
MAJOR PROBLEM
CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTO FIELDS
NECESSARY TO HAVE SEPARATE AREA FOR COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION
MEANS TO OVERCOME TECHNICAL PROBLEMS
LOW STRENGTH AND POOR SPINNABILITY
BLENDING 30-50% OF WHITE COTTON WITH COLOURED COTTON
CHANGE OF SHADE ON LAUNDERING
ON LAUNDERING SHADE BECOMES DEEPER
ALKALINE SCOURING STABILIZES THE SHADE CHANGE
POOR BLEACHING FASTNESS
DO NOT BLEACH
Dr. B.M. Khadi at the University of Agriculture Science Dharwad
developed
Brown, Green and cream coloured cotton
Seeds available for cultivation
Till 1960 coloured cotton grown in some parts of India was exported to
Japan
Coloured cotton is insect and desease resistant and also drought tolerent
Innovation failed to take market place
The Cottton Project at the college of agriculture, Khandwa is engaged in research to boost the production and productivity of
coloured cotton
In 1996, the centre has been successful in developing a variety of cotton which produces seed cotton having natural almond
brown colour (JCC-1).
There is a vast scope in this direction as such a genotypes will avoid the use of synthetic dyes
the demand of organically grown cotton is increasing very fast.
Some more colours are being developed
Rocklea spinning Mills in collaboration with Australian farmers introduced range of yarns from brown and green
varieties of cotton
Blending of coloured cotton with white cotton in diffferent proporations produce shade
varieties
Australia
In Australia, Jeff & Marilyn Bidstrup, pioneered Australian
coloured cotton,
When blended, this cotton produces a beautiful "Sand Dune"
colour, ideal for our first EcoDownUnder towels.
The Bidstrups are leading the industry with Landcare Australia
awards and minimising their impact on the environment through "dry
land farming" rather than irrigating.
Environmental management by rotating cotton crops every 3
seasons and no harsh chemicals applied to their land for over 3
years has seen yields become some of the highest in the industry.
NATIVE COLOUR COTTON PROJECT
PERU
•COMMENCED IN 1984 TO DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY TO SUPPORT
INDIGENOUS FARMERS AND TRADITIONAL ARTISANS
•15000 FARDMERS CULTIVATE COLOURED COTTON
•50000 WOMEN INVOLVED IN TRADITIONAL HAND SPINNING AND
HAND WEAVING•COLOURED COTTON IS PRODUCED WITHOUT THE USE OF SYNTHETIC
FERTILIZERS AND PESTICIDES•COTTON PLANT GROWS UP TO 5
METERS HIGHYIELD 10 KG PER PLANT
•REMARKABLY RESISTANT TO PEST AND DISEASES
•THRIVES IN MARGINAL SOILS WITH LITTLE OR NO RAIN FALL
PRE-HISPANIC GRAVE in the Chancay Valley of Peru is heaped with naturally colored cotton bolls. The ancient people of this coastal area filled the body of the deceased with the cotton, which would absorb the bodily fluids, thereby aiding in the process of mummification. The arid sands of the region preserved the cotton (which was removed from the body when this grave was looted.)
SIX PRINCIPLE COLOUR
VARIETIES
CREAM
Pista green
MEDIUM BROWN
REDDISH BROWN
CHOCOLATE BROWN
MAUVE
Brown verities possess anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties
COFFEE FILTERS MADE FROM CERTIFIED ORGANIC COLOURED COTTON FREE FROM
PESTIFCIDES, BLEACHES ANDSYNTHETIC COLOURS
Natural coloured yarns and fabrics are certified by SKAL, Dutch certifying agency
PERUVIAN TAPESTRY from A.D. 1000 depicts a cotton plant complete with roots, leaves, stems, flowers and ripening cotton bolls spilling forth with naturally pigmented cotton
Four species of cotton have different lint lengths.
COTTON HARVESTING is done by hand in Peru
Women then sort the cotton, also by hand, for color and quality.
Traditional spinning bowl
LINT FIBER greatly enlarged reveals the natural twist The dark masses impart the natural color.
Coloured cotton bolls are hand picked
Small quantity is used for craft production and domestic consumption in rural market.
Large quantity is consumed in uraban market as
textile products
Medical remedy for over fifty somatic and psychosomatic disorders
Colour cotton cultivation by traditional farmers is officially protected
Large number of traditional farmers are immensely benefited
No patents are held on native colored cotton, respecting and promoting the crop
protection rights of the indigenous people of Peru.
Today Indian descendants of ancient Peruvian cultures still harvest, gin and spin by hand the natural colored cottons of Peru.
Slivers of coloured cotton
Naturally coloured yarn for Kniting and Weaving
Coloured cotton fabrics
COTTON CLOTHES in naturally occurring colors are produced in Peru
Sally Fox was introduced to colored cotton while
working for a cotton breeder, whose focus was
developing pest-resistant strains of cotton.
The peoples of Central and South America had spun
these strains for centuries, but the fiber qualities were
not sufficient for modern machine spinning.
Here was Sally Fox’s opportunity to combine her
concern for the environment,
work in her field of entomology,
and practice her favorite pastime, spinning and weaving
Sally Fox in 1982 took on the challenge of improving an ancient agricultural art.
Fox successfully bred and marketed varieties of naturally coloured cotton she calls FoxFiber ®.
Today, Sally Fox designs fabrics with her cotton and continues research.
Fox has received a patent and three Plant Variety Protection Certificates for her naturally colored cottons which, in addition to browns, she now grows in reds and greens.
Her invention has been so popular it has sprouted two successful companies -- Vreseis, Ltd. and Natural Cotton Colours, both operating in Arizona.
Natural qualities found in Fox Fibre:Furnish lasting color; repeated washings intensify colors bringing out the warm and rich color tones
Enable our cottons to be spun from 100% solid color
to any percentage of color blends. Blends of Fox Fibre colors (with each other or with white) can
create all of the color shades within the beige, khaki, brown, red brown, dark brown, and green color
spectrums
Provide a fire retardant tendency
Eliminate the need for bleaches, dyes, & other costly processes during textile and product manufacturing
Sally Fox is associted with Athena Mills Arizona
Athena Mills is recognized as a leader for two environmentally descriptive trademarks - Colorganic® and Colour-By-Nature®.
Both marks ensure the final product's color is from naturally colored cotton.
Colorganic additionally ensures certified organic growing practices for all of the cotton fibers in the final product.
Fox Fibre offers consumers an ecological alternative in cotton: today's purchase for tomorrow's environment
ECO LABELS
Eco-labels are product labels that
inform consumers about the environmental impact of a
product. They encourage producers to switch to environmentally sound production
process methods (PPMs) for advantage in the marketplace. Eco-labels allow producers to
differentiate their products from products that are less
environmentally friendly and
thus to reach environmentally conscious consumers.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLINESS OF THE ENTIRE LIFE CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT
CRADLE TO GRAVE ASSESSMENT
1. Production of raw materials
2. Production of the end product
3. Packaging and transport of raw
materials and the finished product
4. Use of the product by companies and
consumers
5. Disposal of the product
e.g. assessment of a T-shirt starts in the
cotton field and ends in the incineration
plant.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
•As little use as possible of chemical substances harmful to the environment
•No or very few heavy metals in the product
•Energy conservation during production and use
•The lowest possible amounts of harmful
substances in wastewater
•Requirements which ensure that the product works well and will last long
Opportunities for recycling/reuse
•The product should be as unproblematic as
possible in terms of waste
POTENTIALLY HARMFUL SUBSTANCES
pH
Formaldehyde
Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni,
Hg)
Pesticides Chlorinated phenols
Dyestuffs (specific classifications)
Chlorinated organic carriers
Boicidal finishes
Flame retardent finishes
Colour fastness
Emission of volatiles
Odours
Republic of China–TaiwanGreen Mark
Thailand (Thai Green Label
Korea Environmental
Labelling
Japan Eco Mark
India Eco MarkAustralia/New Zealand Environmental ChoiceEuropean Union Eco-label “Flower”
scheme
Nordic Countries (Nordic Swan )
Austrian Eco-label
Croatia (Environmental Label)
Netherland Ecolabel Foundation