Eat magazine july | august 2014

®

Smart. Local. Delicious.

CELEBRATING 15 YEARS OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVEL

WHY BITTER IS BETTERSMALL BITES PARTY FOODTHE ART OF BREADCABERNET FRANC

THE

FLAMIN’ TACOSGO Mexican with Beef and

Lime Kebabs

BestITALIAN RESTAURANTS

SUMMER GRILLINGJU

LY | AUGUST

l 2014 |Issue 18-04 | FREE| eatm

agazine.ca

EAT Magazine July_Aug 2014_Victoria_48_Layout 1 6/27/14 10:45 AM

2 EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2014

PREVIEWS BEGIN EARLY JULY

84 CUSTOMIZABLE CONDOS STARTING AT $219,000


3www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2014

content

Cover photography by Michael Tourigny

EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locationsin BC including Victoria & Vancouver,Vancouver Island.

twitter.com/EatMagazine

Facebook/EatMagazine

Founder and Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

DRINK Editor Treve RingAssistant Editor Colin Hynes

Senior Wine Writer Larry ArnoldArt Director Gary Hynes

Web Editors Cynthia Annett, Jon JohnsonAdvertising Sales: 250-384-9042, [email protected]

Regional ReportersTofino | Ucluelet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Tim Pawsey, Okanagan:Jeannette Montgomery, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up Island:Kirsten TylerContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Holly Brooke, AdamCantor, Cinda Chavich, John Crawford, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, JeremyFerguson, Colin Hynes, Jon Johnson, Sol Kaufman, Tracey Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, SophieMacKenzie, Sherri Martin, Danika McDowell, Jeannette Montgomery, Elizabeth Monk, MichaelaMorris, Simon Nattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Tim Pawsey, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, KaitlynRosenburg, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia, Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected]

Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4

Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: [email protected] Website: eatmagazine.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced with-

out the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Your destination for bet ter food.Customer Service: 1.800.667.8280 • thriftyfoods.com

with our fresh and convenient deli salads. No rinsing, no chopping, no tossing required. Just open and serve for a delicious side – and then

take all the credit from those who think you made them yourself!

Elevate yoursummer menu

THRIFTY Kitchens

Ancient Whole Grain Salad

THRIFTY Kitchens

Down Home Ham &

Cheese Macaroni

Salad

THRIFTY Kitchens

Greek Orzo Salad

oursummer menu

www.eatmagazine.caSign-up for our Tapas newsletter

Smart. Local. Delicious.

ArticlesConcierge Desk . . . . . . . 05Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .08

Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09Good For You . . . . . . . . .10Epicure At Large . . . . . . .11Wild Foods . . . . . . . . . . .12Beer & a Bite . . . . . . . . . .13Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Eating Well For Less . . . .18Italian Restaurants . . . . .23VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .27Extreme Makeovers . . . .28Bitter is Better . . . . . . . . .30Visiting Chef . . . . . . . . .32Local Kitchen . . . . . . . . .36Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .40Wine & Food Pairing . . .42Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .43News from around BC . .44EAT Web Picks . . . . . . . .46

PhotographerElizabeth Nyland captured thisidyllic scene atPoint No Point,a resort on Vancouver Island’s Juan de Fucashore. Yeah. Looks like summer’s really here.

PREVIEWS BEGIN EARLY JULY

84 CUSTOMIZABLE CONDOS STARTING AT $219,000



for people who love to cook

BBrrooaaddmmeeaadd VViillllaaggee,, VViiccttoorriiaa113300--777777 RRooyyaall OOaakk DDrriivveewwwwww..ppeennnnaakkiittcchheenn..ccoomm

225500--772277--22111100IInnffoo@@ppeennnnaakkiittcchheenn..ccoomm

Bridal Registry Available

The ultimate in non-stick diamonds and nano technology make the dif ference.

Made in Switzerland

TRY ME PROMO...7" frypanReg 79.99Try me promo ONLY 39.99!While supplies last!

step into the sun! 919 douglas st.www.strathconahotel.com

TacoMania...5 delicious, unique tacos!

Rooftop Surfclub

PANORAMAAND PASTRIES

We offer the baked sweets you crave. Our in-house pastry chef Danielle Cole creates everything from mouth watering desserts and fresh breads for the restaurant, to scrumptious pastries for the Marina Coffee House.

250 598 8555 | www.marinarestaurant.com1327 BEACH DRIVE AT THE OAK BAY MARINA


www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2014

JulyTHE OAK BAY VILLAGE NIGHT MARKET (OAK BAY)

Taking place on the second Wednesday of July, August and September, the night

markets will feature local produce, artisans, music and special events in Oak Bay

Village. The Oak Bay Village Night Market features produce from farms throughout

southern Vancouver Island. (oakbay.ca)

VICTORIA DOWNTOWN FARMERS' MARKET (VICTORIA)

Homegrown. Handmade. Year Round. Every Wednesday, Saturday & Sunday 11AM-

3PM Featuring the region’s best farms, freshest food, friendliest vendors, demonstra-

tions and finest musicians. Come with your re-useable bags and fill up on local

goodies. Check out their Vendor Calendar online to see who's coming and when:

victoriapublicmarket.com/market-calendar

VICTORIA VEGAN FESTIVAL (VICTORIA)

The third annual Victoria Vegan Festival (#VVF2014) is a showcase of the vegan

lifestyle, welcoming all, from the curious to the long-time vegan. Taking place on

Canada Day (July 1) at Market Square in the heart of downtown Victoria – this FREE

fun family friendly event will feature speakers, entertainers, businesses and non-profit

groups, and of course you can expect numerous delicious vegan food samples.

victoriaveganfest.com

SAANICH STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL (SAANICH)

This event originated as a celebration of the agricultural roots of Saanich and has

blossomed into a grand festival for all ages. Enjoy an old style family picnic at the

beach or take part in a wide range of free family activities. July 6 at Beaver Lake.

saanichsunfest.ca

DIRTY APRON COOKING SCHOOL KIDS CAMP (VANCOUVER)

For the fifth summer, The Dirty Apron Cooking School is putting kids and teens in the

kitchen. Designed with young learners in mind, students are actively engaged in the

cooking process from start to finish. The camps are open to returning students as they

have all new menus and new experiences waiting. From World Cooking to Knife Skills,

your child will be sure to graduate from the 5-Day camp with a fresh attitude towards

food and where it comes from. 5-Day camps beginning every Monday from July 7 to

Aug 25. Tuition for the camp is priced at $525 and includes a daily recipe book, closely

supervised hands-on instruction and all meals. For more information, including daily

menus please visit: dirtyapron.com.

GARDEN EXPLORERS WORKSHOP FOR KIDS (VICTORIA)

Children will find the gardens to be a feast for their senses as they tour the Compost

Education Centre site while tasting, touching, smelling, and eating some of the

organic goodies growing at the Centre. Participants will harvest, prepare and eat a

snack from the garden, get their hands dirty exploring worm bins and compost piles,

document their garden explorations with a variety of available art supplies and have

plenty of time to roam and ramble around the gardens onsite. July 26 1-3pm.

compost.bc.ca

TASTE: VICTORIA’S FESTIVAL OF FOOD AND WINE (VICTORIA) Victoria’s sixth

annual Taste festival will uncork Thursday July 24, with an evening tasting of more

than 100 British Columbia wines and local cuisine prepared by top Vancouver Island

chefs. Not just a wine festival, this culinary tourism experience is an extra long week-

end of tastings, seminars and events...a festival with a culinary conscience. Events run

through to Sunday, July 27. Tickets sell out quickly. (victoriataste.com).

CONCIERGEBy Rebecca Baugniet

CONT’D TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE 5


On a sunny, late afternoon upstairs at the Argyle Attic, a groupof writers and editors settled in for a session of drinks andappetizers. Pints of beer and ciders and plates of spring rolls andmini burgers were ordered and devoured. The occasion was thefirst meet ‘n greet of EAT’s new website writing team. Call it a bitof a celebration because, after of months of whirlwind activity atEAT HQ, we were ready to raise a glass and toast the beginning ofa new online food publication in BC called EAT – Food & DrinkDaily. With the hiring of eight new web writers, EAT’s doubled its

output of restaurant, food, cooking, event, and drinks coverage.Many of the writers were meeting each other for the first time

and anticipation and pride was felt round the table. In addition to the bimonthly printmagazine, we now have a comparable, stand alone, online presence with multiple dailyposts and a broader mandate to cover local stories. With some 175 new and exclusivearticles on the website, I feel we’ve made a tremendous start, and in the process we’vemade new friends, interviewed interesting locals with great stories to tell, and visited

many new restaurants and food shops (often-overlooked places that our writers felt weneeded to let readers know about). For a preview of some of the most read onlinearticles on EATmagazine.ca see pages 46 and 47. There are links at the end of the articlethat will take you directly to the stories, or simply browse the site’s pull down menuand see where you land.

In this summer issue, our print contributors have worked hard to bring you relevant,thoughtful, and exciting articles—Local Kitchen editor Jennifer Danter reworks the tacoto bring it to your backyard grill; Cinda Chavich takes a look at how bitter flavours arebecoming increasingly prevalent in our in food and drink; our restaurant team visits thetotally redone Lure at the Delta Ocean Pointe Resort. As well, read about Tonolli's, a deliyou just have to go to, an Indian restaurant that offers masala dosa (a South Indiantreat), and a new seafood store at the Victoria Public market. Photographer Lille LouiseMajor and I head out to Metchosin to spend an afternoon tasting chef Castro Boateng’sfine food. His mission? To craft small bite dishes that would work for a casual summergathering.Have a great summer. I’m going to kick back, go for a few swims, and try out some

recipes and recommended wines from this issue. —Gary Hynes, Editor.

Editor’s NoteEDITOR’S NOTE


IT’S IN OUR HANDS. HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS. 1517 QUADRA ST.


7

AugustSLOW FOOD VANCOUVER CYCLE TOURS 2014 (FRASER VALLEY)This summer, Slow Food Vancouver is looking forward to co-hosting two Slow Food

Summer Cycle Tours in the Fraser Valley. The 8th Annual Cycle Tour Agassiz is

planned for August 2, and the 6th Cycle Tour Chilliwack will be held on August 3. The

leisurely self-guided Slow Food Cycle Tours provide an educational and culinary

experience exploring many farms; some that are open to the public for this day only!

The tours give a rare chance to meet the farmers and learn about agriculture in the

spectacular Fraser Valley. Each cycle tour is approximately 25km on the flat along

public roadways. Start and finish your slow cycle any time between 9am-4pm.

(slowfoodvancouver.com)

FEAST OF FIELDS (ACROSS BC)Feast of Fields is FarmFolk/CityFolk’s annual fundraiser. Net proceeds support their

work year round as they help to create a sustainable food system for British Columbia.

Not only will guests have a great culinary experience but they will also be investing

in a secure food future. The Okanagan Feast of Fields will be held August 17 from 1-5

pm, at Okanagan Lavender and Herb Farm, Kelowna. Bremner’s Farm will host the

Lower Mainland Feast of Fields on Sunday, September 7, from 1pm- 5pm. The

Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will be held Sunday, September 14, from 1-5 pm at the

Kildara Farm in Sidney. For ticket purchase information visit the Feast of Fields

website (feastoffields.com).

NORTH SAANICH FLAVOUR TRAIL (SAANICH)The North Saanich Flavour Trail offers residents and visitors the opportunity to

explore and experience Peninsula food and agriculture. Learn how to grow your own

veggies and get started on your winter garden. Discover how to grow oranges and

lemons in your backyard and make homegrown marmalade! Enjoy fine wine and

savour local cuisine. Relax and have a cuppa with fresh scones and home-crafted straw-

berry jam. Take in local history. Picnic by the Salish Sea. August 22-24. northsaanich.ca

GARLIC FESTIVAL (VANCOUVER)Get your breath mints ready, the Sharing Farm’s 6th Annual Garlic Festival is back this

August 24 at Richmond’s Terra Nova Rural Park. Open to all ages, this free event

combines organically grown artisan garlic and garlic goods with family friendly

activities like: live entertainment, cooking demonstrations, exhibitors and everyone’s

favourite, garlic ice cream. (garlicfestival.sharingfarm.ca)

FEAST PORTLAND (PORTLAND, OREGON)Sept 18-21. At EAT HQ Feast Portland is one of the most talked about festivals we

attend. Considered the “flagship food & drink of the Pacific Northwest” it’s a 4-day

showcase for Portland’s food cumminity with large-scale tastings, intimate sit-down

dinners, hands-on classes, live culinary demonstrations, thought-provoking speakers,

and industry get-togethers. You gotta go. (feastportland.com)For more local events see The Buzz starting on page 44.

www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2014 7



Olive Odyssey: Searching for theFruit that Seduced the World

You probably know Victoria born Julie Angus best for her travel writing.Her previous books, such as Rowed Trip and Rowboat in a Hurricane, havetaken us alongside her sensational experiences exploring the world. It’s

with this same zest for adventure and exploration that she sets out in pursuit ofher latest subject the olive. In Olive Odyssey: Searching for the Fruit that Seduced theWorld, Angus endeavours to discover what it is about this peculiar andunassuming fruit that has enchanted cooks and food enthusiasts for centuries.Angus’ writing in Olive Odyssey is, in the best way, reminiscent of her travel

titles that came before. She is an adventurer at heart, and seeks out the olive andits intricacies with the same dogged determination and energy that she hasbrought to past works. This book is infused with the careful detail andthoroughness of the best investigative nonfiction. No facet of the olive and theculture which surrounds it is left unexplored. Adding a personal flavour to thestory, Angus includes a touching account of her and her young family’sexperiences at every step of their travels unravelling this fascinating fruit. Indeedit is these personal elements which give this story its fantastic depth andpersonality. Her breakdown of the olive, its history and its lore, is tangiblyhuman� more than just showing you the olive, Angus takes you along with herand her family to make the discovery in tandem. The result is a highlypersonable and deeply engrossing read loaded with interesting facts and thought-ful, personal moments. And of course, lots and lots of olives.

Author: Julie Angus

Olive Odyssey: Searching for the Fruit thatSeduced the World is available as a hard-cover from Greystone Books for $28.95and is on sale now at Bolen Books.

111-1644 Hillside Ave., Victoriawww.bolen.bc.ca(250) 595-4232

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

LUSCIOUS RUBY RED STRABERRIES aresummer’s plump juicy jewels. Whether they areplucked warm and wild in a meadow, harvestedfrom your garden or picked from a farm's straw-berry fields, they're as precious as a warm sum-mer day. Their taste is a rhapsodic blend ofsweetness, sourness and mild astringency. Theydon't need elaborate preparation to sparkle.Enrobe them in chocolate, inject them withGrand Marnier, or dust them with icing sugar and dessert is served. If dreaming aboutstrawberries is a good omen, a sign of fruitful days and a sweet healthy life, let therebe strawberry daydreams all summer long.As I write this at the beginning of May, the early June-bearing strawberries in my

garden are bursting into bloom with beautiful white flowers. A second varietyproduces berries in July and August. Growing two types of bountiful plants ensures acontinuous crop of strawberries through the summer, and their munificence doesn’tstop there. Each plant produces several new plants every year; that is, each motherplant produces runners that become new daughter plants. I grow most of mystrawberries in large containers high off the ground, which prevents them from beingeaten by slugs, and also allows their runners and daughter plants to “straw” over theedge of the containers (“straw” is the past tense of “strew,” meaning “spread”). Thenew plants can be cut off the mother plants and planted elsewhere in the garden, orgifted to friends and neighbours. If you can’t grow your own, find local farms whereyou can buy or pick strawberries at www.islandfarmfresh.com.These berries aren’t just good, they are so good for you. Every part of the plant has

wide-ranging medicinal properties; the leaves, crowns, roots and fruits are used in teas,tinctures, syrups and ointments to solve conditions ranging from gout to bladderinfections. The berry’s cooling effects relieve sunburns, fevers and many otherinternal and external inflammatory conditions. Strawberries are rich in potassium,folic acid and fibre and are loaded with Vitamin C. They are high in ellagic acid, anextraordinary plant phenol hailed by researchers as one of the most potent cancer-protective substances ever discovered. Strawberries are the world's most widely distributed cash crop, grown in sweet

abundance from Saanich to Stockholm to Sapporo. Their rose-like flavour blends wellwith summer herbs such as lavender, rosemary, lemon balm, bergamot and mint. Theyare ambrosial when bathed in wine, liqueur, or cream and make exquisitely simpledesserts when coupled with other fruits. Mash an avocado, a banana and somestrawberries and stir in a dollop of whipped cream. Pour the mixture into a walnut datecrust or a baked pie shell, chill for a few hours and devour a slice of summer. Or peeland pit a whole peach, stuff it with strawberries, sprinkle with nutmeg and sugar,spoon in some custard and bake at 350F for 40 minutes. That's what I'll be eating inmy strawberry dreams.

GET FRESH By Sylvia Weinstock

Serves 4.

12 large strawberries, hulled and quartered2 nectarines, halved, pitted and thinly sliced1 cup blueberries2 Tbsp lemon juice2 Tbsp sugar1 cup chilled Essensia Orange MuscatFresh mint sprigs, for garnish

Combine the strawberries, nectarines,blueberries, lemon juice and sugar in a largenon-eactive bowl. Taste and adjust the amountof sugar if necessary. Add the Muscat. Toss themixture well, cover and refrigerate at least twohours.Just before serving, spoon the macerated fruits

and their syrup into champagne glasses or largewine goblets.Garnish with mint sprigs, and serve.

Macerated Strawberries, Nectarines and Blueberries

E

My Summer CrushForget cardboard stand ins, for a taste of a realstrawberry look close to home


www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2014 9

Bean Around theWorld

I HAVE WOLFED DOWN PLATTER UPON PLATTER of hummus and pita bread andI very much like a good falafel. During a vegetarian stint, I cottoned on to cauliflower,potato and chickpea curry. This ancient, protein-rich legume remains a staple in myculinary repertoire. That’s just about all I did with the humble chickpea. Lately though, I have taken to tossing chickpeas wantonly into salads. (I particularly

like their slightly nutty taste with peppery arugula). Thick potages too are worthy oftheir presence. (I wrote about Portuguese caldo verde with chickpeas in the December2013 issue of EAT.) I toss a handful into white bean soup for extra nutrition andtexture. In both meat and vegetarian chilies, the chickpea is involved, and spicyroasted chickpeas have become a go-to snack.On a recent trip to Italy, local “ceci” appeared in dish after dish—most of the time

in conjunction with pasta. One such preparation was served at an agrotourismo—analmost self-sufficient farm/trattoria/winery in the Le Marche hills. The family grewgrapes and olives for producing wine and oil, and milled their own wheat for makingbread and pasta. They also grew and dried chickpeas. Strozzapreti (meaning prieststrangler), a rope-shaped noodle, was tossed with ceci, garlic and olive oil. (I amuncertain where the priest fits in.) The simple lunch was the perfect buffer to adrizzly afternoon and jugs of homemade wine. At another agrotourismo—ceciseasoned with rosemary was served with wild boar sausage. I will definitely be tryingthese recipes now I’m home.There is also chickpea polenta (panelle), or as it is known in the south of France,

socca. Chickpeas are ground into flour and cooked with olive oil and salt, just likepolenta. The mixture can then be baked or fried. I may also top this chickpea polentawith creamed or sautéed wild mushrooms. (You can purchase chickpea flour—no needto grind your own.)Italian farmers wouldn’t dream of using tinned chickpeas, but I do on occasion for

convenience. I far prefer using dried chickpeas, however. I dislike tinned chickpealiquid; even when rinsed thoroughly, the chickpeas have a slightly metallic taste. Anddried chickpeas vary in size and texture. Some are large and rough around the edges.Others are small and smooth. I prefer using the first in substantial recipes where thewhole chickpea is star (like a chili or stew). The latter I use to accent salads or forpreparing hummus. The smaller peas are easier to mash, which is how I usuallyprepare hummus. Purchased dips often have the consistency of wallpaper paste and Iam fond of chunkier spreads.This is how I make a delicious and different hummus. Measures are approximate.Soak one cup of dried chickpeas overnight. (Volume may increase two or threefold).

Bring a pot of water to the boil. Add a teaspoon of salt. Reduce to simmer and cookthe chickpeas for about an hour or until tender but not mushy. Strain peas into a large bowl. Let cool. Mix with one small chopped and sautéed

onion (optional), a clove or two of chopped fresh or roasted garlic. Add a couple oftablespoons plain yogurt, a drizzle of chicken stock and a glug of olive oil. (Or omitthe olive oil, drizzling it over at the end, and add more yogurt and stock). I use acouple of heaping tablespoons almond butter instead of tahini, juice of half a lemonand a ½ teaspoon of cumin seed. Mash with a potato masher for a chunky dip or blenduntil smooth. Adding roasted red pepper, chili flakes or fresh chopped coriander makea tasty variation.You can grow and dry your own chickpeas. They’ll grow well in a sunny, warm spot.

And fresh chickpeas right from the garden served with young soft cheese truly exaltsthe humble.

FOOD MATTERS By Julie Pegg

Garbanzo, chickpea, ceci—whatever you call them,these resourceful legumes make a meal out of anything.

If you don’t think it’s the best patio view in town, you need a pair of glasses.

FIND US ON FOLLOW USHOTELGRANDPACIFIC.COM | 250.380.4458 |

®

Great food and drink features, live music and

stunning patio views of the Inner Harbour.

Join us Fridays, starting July 4th, from 4:30

to 6:30. Booking not required, but (trust us)

get there early.

If you don’t think it’s

HO

If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sthe best patio view in town,

HO

you need a paithe best patio view in town,you need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a pai

If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sthe best patio view in town,If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’s

you need a paithe best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’s

GRANDP CIFIC.COM | 250CIFIC.COM | 250CIFIC.COM | 250AGRANDPTELTELHO

the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,ryou need a pai

the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sthe best patio view in town,If you don’t think it’s

.4458 |.4458 |.380.4458 |

If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’s

FIND US ON FIND US ON FIND US ON FIND US ON FIND US ON

the best patio view in town,

FOLL

the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’s

rthe best patio view in town,you need a paithe best patio view in town,the best patio view in town,If you don’t think it’sIf you don’t think it’s

.4458 |.380.380CIFIC.COM | 250 FOLLFIND US ON

FOLL

the best patio view in town,

W USOFOLL

of glaof glayou need a paiof glayou need a paiof glayou need a paiof glaof glayou need a paiyou need a pai

sses.sses.sses.of glaof glaof glaof glaof glaof glasses.sses.of glaof glasses.of glaof glaof glaof glayou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a pai

rrryou need a paiyou need a paiyou need a pai

get there early.



stunning patio views of the Inner Harbou

res, live music and Great food and drink featu



r. stunning patio views of the Inner Harbou

res, live music and

®

WWW.OUGHTRED.COME



GOOD FOR YOU By Pam Durkin

The Art of BreadArtisanal bakers are creating loaves that once againmake bread the staff of life.DESPITE THE POPULAR TREND to declare oneself “gluten or wheat-free,” breadremains, for the majority of Canadians, the “staff of life.” However, in increasingnumbers we are eschewing the commercial, mass-produced breads of our youth forthe handcrafted, slowly fermented artisanal breads our ancestors enjoyed.The reasons for the switch are multiple—artisanal breads are not only superior in

taste and texture, they are also far more nutritious than their commercial counter-parts.So what exactly IS artisanal bread? Although there is no legal definition for the term,

it generally applies to bread that has been leavened with a natural “starter”—a livingculture of live yeast that is slowly and carefully nurtured by the baker. Both the starterand the resulting dough undergo a long fermentation process. When fully fermented,the dough is hand-shaped and baked in a masonry oven—a process that producesloaves with a delicious golden-brown crust.“Baking artisanal bread is a labour-intensive craft, an art form,” says Cliff Leir, owner

of Fol Epi, one of Victoria’s premier sources for traditional European-style breads. ErikaHeyrman of Wildfire Bakery concurs. “There is no machinery involved in this type ofbread-baking; it is a completely hands-on process.”Another distinctive feature of artisanal bread is the quality—and simplicity—of the

ingredients used. Whereas mass-produced supermarket bread might contain up to 20ingredients—including deleterious preservatives—artisanal breads are very pure.“They’re basically water, flour, starter and salt,” states Heyrman, “plus possible healthyadd-ins like seeds or cheese depending on the flavour profile the baker is trying toachieve.” This purity also extends to the type of flour used. The majority of artisanalbreads are made from stone-ground flours milled from heritage wheat varieties (RedFife, Selkirk) or alternative grains like spelt, which are often sprouted before they’remilled. “We do not use the modern hybridized wheat that features in commercialbread,” emphasizes Leir. That is a salient point because the hybridization (cross breed-ing) of modern wheat is thought by many to be the cause of the increasing incidenceof both celiac disease and wheat sensitivities. Not surprisingly, Leir and Heyrman bothhave customers who, though unable to tolerate commercial wheat breads, can easilydigest and enjoy fermented artisanal loaves.Being easily digestible is not the only health benefit offered by artisanal breads.

During the fermentation process, the phytates in the grains are broken down,rendering the grain’s bevy of nutrients more bio-available to the body. In addition,the wild yeast cultures used to start the bread are teeming with the probiotics thatpromote both a healthy immune system and a healthy gut. Health benefits and purity aside, the true selling point of artisanal breads—for food-

ies—is their superb flavour and texture. The acute attention paid to the bread’schemistry and ingredients results in robust flavours and palate-pleasing crust andcrumb textures. “Our customers are people who just love good food,” enthuses Leir.“They are not influenced by anti-carb fear mongering; they are swayed by taste andquality, not trends.” Heyrman echoes this remark. “Consumers constantly tell us theyappreciate being able to purchase bread they know is GMO-free, wholesome, pure andtasty. They’re glad the age-old bread making traditions are making a comeback—they’re quite literally sick of the bland, mass-produced stuff.”Before you rush out and buy your own scrumptious loaf of artisanal bread, there are

some key things to keep in mind. Because artisanal bread is made withoutpreservatives, it tends to have a shorter shelf life than its commercial counterpart.Furthermore, due to the labour-intensive nature of its production—it’s pricier. How-ever, as any bread lover will attest, it is worth every extra penny. To experience the tastedifference yourself, I heartily recommend picking up a loaf at one of the followingfine Victoria bakeries. E

Crust, 730 Fort St.Leaven, 1515B Cook St.Wildfire Organic Bakery, 1517 Quadra St.Bond Bond’s Bakery 1010 Blanshard St.

Fry’s Red Wheat Bread Bakery,416 Craigflower Rd. Fol Epi, Dockside Green, 101-398 Harbour Rd.



Tofino chef Lisa Ahier’s gastro wizardry is captured in a cook-book as hell-bent on excitement as the food that inspired it.

Sobo Mojo

EPICURE AT LARGE By Jeremy Ferguson

THE SOBO COOKBOOK ARRIVES WITHBELLS, notably an affectionate forewordfrom Sarah McLachlan as well as back-cover tributes from Rob Feenie, probablythe finest chef B.C. has ever produced, andsub-continental superstar Vikram Vij. Nosmall praise.The applause could be understated. Chef

Lisa Ahier has emerged as the gastro-wiz-ard of the west of the west coast. Her storyrings familiar to Islanders: how she andhusband Artie opened Sobo (an acronymfor Sophisticated Bohemian) in a purplefood truck in a parking lot behind a Tofinosurf shop. How they came—the tourists,the surfers, the locals—to woof downhalibut-stuffed tacos and miso oysters.And how en Route, Air Canada’s in-flight magazine, named Sobo—a food truck?—

one of Canada’s top 10 new restaurants of the year 2003. And away it went.Fast-forward to 2014. Sobo occupies a smart, inviting space in downtown Tofino.

Its components are a Wood Stone pizza [oven?], furious open kitchen, full bakery anda hap-happy crowd. “We try to maintain moderate prices,” Ahier says, “prices ourfriends can afford.” Which makes her a rarity in this globally famed resort.The cookbook presents the Sobo oeuvre, with easy-to-follow recipes taking readers

from breakfast to bedtime. Mundane doesn’t exist here: think Florentine breakfast pizza, Aztec bean soup,

grilled watermelon and shrimp salad, miso oysters with smoked salmon bacon, polentafries, prosciutto-wrapped halibut, barbecued octopus, cedar-plank salmon, West Texasonion rings, dark chocolate and salted caramel tart. Comprehensive chapters cover off the Sobo evolution, the unique nature of Tofino,

cook notes (sauces, spices, seeds, oils, etc) and the staples, from fire-roasted corn topickled jalapeños, of a kitchen hell-bent on excitement.Ahier’s idea of flavour is “killer” in Tofino-speak. Chef lives the mantra of organic,

local and sustainable, but also transcends it. As foodies know too well, correctnessdoesn’t guarantee flavour. Love does. Foraging for top ingredients, infusing salsa sensation according to her American

southwest sensibility (she hails from Fort Worth) and applying her CIA discipline inthe kitchen, Ahier is simply the most original chef on the Island.It’s a beautiful book. Surf photographer Jeremy Koreski illustrates with crisp food

photography and essence-capturing images of Tofino through the seasons. There’s alsoan endearing generosity here. Ahier’s opening tribute to Artie, “who has put his dreamson the shelf to help me realize mine” is more than eloquent.Full-page profiles salute local farmers and growers dedicated to producing the best

our seas and soil can offer up. The effect of the book isn’t just to set the moutha-watering. It leaves you hungry to be in the kitchen with the chef.Minor cavil? Lisa Ahier’s fried oysters are the best of the best on the west coast and

the recipe, dammit, isn’t here. When she gilds her bivalve lily, expect pan-friedoysters crusted in hemp hearts and served with tequila and avocado ice cream. Alsonot here. So, Lisa, make the next one The SOBO Oyster Book, eh?The SOBO Cookbook: Recipes from the Tofino Restaurant at the End of the Canadian Road

(Random House, $29.95) by Lisa Ahier with Andrew Morrison

Camille`s@ 45 Bastion Square

Victoria, BC250-381-3433

www.camillesrestaurant.com

At 45 Bastion Square

Globally Inspired. Local Flavour.

Open Lunch & DinnerTuesday throughSaturday.

E



The whole beast

- -

Now open in Langford!next to Quality Foods

Open daily, surprising product selection, best value pricingcascadialiquor.com

we’re on the wayto wherever summer

takes you.

we’re on the way

WRITING OUT OF SEASON can be a challenge when your specialty is wild food. Ihave to picture myself plucking spring greens in the depths of winter or rustling upwinter stews in the heat of summer. Summer is the one exception. While I’m stillwriting to the sound of cool coastal spring rain, my near-breathless anticipation ofthe bounty of mid-summer berries means the taste, scent and texture of the seasonlingers year-round. Summer is the season for berries, but few measure up to the diversity and quality of

those in the genus Rubus. Quite simply, the Rubus family includes everything thatlooks like a blackberry (and one or two things that don’t). These easily identified berrieswere my first foray into wild harvesting as a child, and several remain among myfavourite west coast berries.Most readily available of all the Rubus varieties is the highly invasive Himalayan

blackberry. While not native to this continent, this tenacious bramble has made ahome for itself near almost every human settlement on the coast. The rich purple-black berries form impenetrable walls in ditches, along fence lines, or in abandonedfields, particularly in low, wet areas. The berries are usually smaller than those you’dfind in a grocery store but are usually the largest of the Rubus varieties found on thecoast. Himalayans are also among the sweetest of their relatives, having almost no tartflavour when fully ripe. There’s no need even to leave the city. Just keep your eye ona bramble patch until its fruits start to ripen, then gather more than enough for jams,pies, wine or syrup.To make the latter, simmer about three parts berries to one part honey or simple

syrup, press through a sieve to remove seeds and store in the fridge. This syrup is beau-tiful on pancakes or ice cream, or as a drizzle for savoury dishes and summer salads. Similar to Himalayan blackberry is another invasive species, the cutleaf blackberry.

Its berries are larger and firmer, and its leaves and flowers spindly in comparison, butthe subtle differences will be quickly noticed as the two varietes are most often foundgrowing side by side. Most uses of the himalayan blackberry apply to the cutleaf,although the former is noticeably sweeter and lends itself better to wines and syrups.Cutleaf berries are often sold in stores and keep far longer than their cousins.My personal favourite of the coastal varieties is the native salmonberry. I love the

berries’ delicate, citrus-like flavour and the array of brilliant colours, ranging from paleyellow to salmon-flesh pink to vibrant red. Bushes are nothing like the tangled, thornymasses of their invasive cousins. They are tall and pale green with fewer thorns, lightfoliage, eye-catching deep pink flowers and sparse fruits. You won’t find enough forjam or wine, but salmonberries are a perfect finishing touch for desserts or sweet-savoury pork dishes.Other native species include the wild red raspberry, similar to cultivated varieties in

both form and flavour, as well as the black raspberry, thimbleberry and trailing black-berry. All bear significantly less fruit than their invasive relatives with the exceptionof thimbleberries, which appear as broad, flat, slightly furry raspberries on densebushes with huge leaves and no thorns. Thimbleberries turn to mush almost as soonas they are touched but make a tart candy-like treat if formed into patties anddehydrated for winter.Of all its potential uses, however, the subtle flavour of the Rubus genus finds its

greatest expression in wine. Several local wineries—Cherry Point and Averill Creek toname just two—make a rich blackberry dessert wine, but it’s the more restrained tablewine that brings out the best in these berries. Every year I make blackberry table wineduring peak harvest, and the result is delicately fruity and surprisingly similar to Beau-jolais nouveau. Qualicum-based Mooberry Winery makes two such wines from black-berries and raspberries, as well as a sparkling blackberry wine similar to a dryLambrusco.

Blackberries and their cousins: they’re lush, healthy,versatile and sweet. And they’re everywhere. Here’swhat to do with the bounty.

WILD FOOD By Simon Nattrass

Ripe for the Picking

Cont’d on the next page



450 SWIFT ST. VICTORIA BC CANOEBREWPUB.COM

IN CASE YOU FORGOT...IN CASE YOU FORGOT...

VOTED BEST PATIO IN VICTORIAHANDCRAFTED BEER + REAL FOOD

TIMELESS WATERFRONT LOCATION

Colin Hynes

A Beer and a Bite By Colin Hynes

The Beer:Una Mas Canoe Brewpub & Saltspring Island AlesCerveza-style Lager (Victoria, BC)This beer was born out of a vacation that CanoeBrewpub and Saltspring Island Ales took together,"spending weeks nursing down-to-earth cervezas" inNicaragua. They have come up with an easy drinkingbeer that is perfect for those hot summer patiosessions.ABV:5.5%, canoebrewpub.com, saltspringislandales.com

The Conclusion:Una Mas transports you to ahot, lazy day in Nicaragua,where it all began between agroup of friends. It pairs wellwith the tacos, because thecrisp notes are refreshingafter the hit of spiciness thatthe salsa delivers. We findthis is the case with mostCentral American cervezas,which is why they are theperfect summer beer. Havingtacos on a hot day with acrisp beer in hand is nirvana,and we highly suggest youtry it out.

The Bite: Backyard Fish Tacos with Pico De GalloSalsaIf you haven't had homemade fish tacos during thesummertime, you are missing out. We love making abig batch of fresh salsa early in the week, and using itfor a variety of dishes. At the end of the week, after thesalsa flavours have played together in the fridge for afew days, we make fish tacos. It is an easy lunch ordinner, and can be made for a large gathering ofpeople without much effort, but be sure to have lots ofnapkins on hand!

Una Mas Canoe Brewpub & Saltspring Island Ales Fish Tacos

If you’re inundated with berries, rest assured there’s more to be done. For anotherof my favourite beverages, fill any size of jar two inches from the top with wholeberries and the rest of the way with gin or vodka. Steep for as long as your patiencewill allow—I try for at least two months—and then mix with sparkling water or addto any sweet cocktail. Alternatively, steep berries in red wine or apple cider vinegarfor a few weeks to create a flavourful addition to salad dressings. Berries are hosts towild yeast, so when trying either of these recipes, be sure the liquid is at least acouple of inches higher than the top of the berries and seal jars loosely. Otherwise,your mixture could ferment. Even if you do start to see some fizz, just open the jars(carefully—you may get a splash) and add more spirits or vinegar. The abundance and versatility of the Rubus family demands that we spend the

entire summer finding new ways to explore these beautiful berries. I suggest you dojust that.

Cont’d from the previous page

Cont’d on the next page E



I’ve always loved the view from Ocean Pointe Resort’s LureRestaurant. Looking across the Inner Harbour at the lights of downtownVictoria, the Empress and the Legislative Buildings is one of the mostromantic, urban vistas in the world. The restaurant’s recenttransformation has heightened that sexy dining experience.Lure’s re-invention has opened up the venue’s bar, balconies, patio

and dining room into a sweeping, lively space with an inviting, playfulbuzz. The 76-seat bar has been expanded and reconfigured with along, shared table that enjoys views of the Inner Harbour and theemerging replacement for the old Blue Bridge. Seats at the equallylengthy new bar overlook the mixologists’ work, while redesignedentrances to the hotel lobby and dining room have given sweepingopenness and social magnetism to a space that was once too crampedand dark.A new balcony with 22 seats surrounds the east side of Lure’s floor-

to-ceiling windows, and a sunny, 58-seat patio with glass wind screens,wrap-around banquettes and a firepit stretches out the dining roomdoors to the west.The dining room has been transformed too. Its new wooden floors

and tables have been complemented by well-placed banquettes, morecasual stoneware and a beautiful centrepiece light fixture shaped likelarge ship’s bells, shaped like a cluster of large ship’s bells emphasiz-ing Lure’s maritime location.Chef Dan Bain’s menu has been redefined to match the more

casual, relaxed decor and features half-portions and shared-plateoptions as well as an emphasis on locally farmed products.The Vancouver Island born and bred chef describes his cooking as

“virtually self-taught. I started my kitchen career at 13 as a dishwasherand later worked at Earl’s and a couple of other places before land-ing a job at Lure in 2005. I covered all aspects of the kitchen beforebeing promoted to chef de partier saucier and restaurant chef inJanuary 2012.”Bain says he loves the fact that every ingredient has flavours, colours,

textures and aromas waiting to be unlocked and combined. Theboyishly handsome chef continues. “Whether it’s the simplecaramelization of onions or the complex chemical reaction of bakingbread, the results are always fascinating.”Lure’s 20-year-old kitchen has had a complete overhaul. “Only one

fryer is left over,” Bain enthuses, “and I’m particularly excited about thenew unit I’ve got for sous-vide cooking. The kitchen’s clear, cleandesign is a dream for my 14-member staff.”When I visited Lure recently, Bain produced a delicious carpaccio of

micro-thin slices of Lois Lake steelhead. Next came a plate of savourylamb meatballs with chef’s smoky tomato condiment followed by ahousemade cast iron flatbread topped with Fairburn Farm’s mozzarellade bufala, asparagus, prosciutto and wild mushrooms, includingchanterelles, morels and king oysters.For dessert, he served homemade brown butter cocoa-nib ice cream

sandwiched between a pair of his trademark kitchen sink cookies (thechocolate chip sweetness balanced by bits of pretzel and potato chip)with a few sweet cherries swimming in a Jack Daniels and caramelsauce. As a special lagniappe for a chocolate lover, Bain also broughtout a tiny canning jar brimming with dark chocolate pot au crèmestudded with dried caramel bits and crunchy, dehydrated berries. Likeeverything chef served and Lure’s re-imagined interior, it was heavenly.—BY JOSEPH BLAKE

Delta Ocean Point Resort | 45 Songhees Rd.,Victoria | (250) 360-5873

Lure Restaurant and Bar

REPORTERRebecca W

ellman

top left: Cast Iron flatbread – asparagus, prosciutto, wild mushrooms, fairburn farm buffalo mozzarella. topright: Lamb meatballs with smoked tomato sauce. middle: Lure’s chef Dan Bain. bottom: A view of the the recentlyrevamped restaurant.

Elizabeth Nyland


Central Saanich is pastoral, languid and relaxing on a sunny Saturday morning. That is, until youhead up Island View Road to check out Tonolli’s Deli at East Saanich Road and face a traffic jam in thedeli’s small parking lot. Jolted out of my post-beach stroll with child and dog, I am determined to getparking pronto and see why so many people are eager to be there. Inside, we are greeted with sumptuous plenty. There are small, multi-tiered tables dotted with Eastern

European candies, wrapped chocolate and salted licorice. Shelves hold eastern European ingredientsfor purchase. Freezers are packed with take-home lasagnas, goulash and cabbage rolls, borscht andmuch more. Display cases present housemade pastries and local meats. Crusty, hearty, housemadebreads (gluten-free available on order) adorn the shelves. A menu spanning breakfast and lunch includes French Baked Eggs, two farm fresh eggs baked with

white truffle cream, ham and melted cheese on toasted French bread. Lunches feature housemade breadsand soups as well as grilled panini sandwiches. It is not a fancy space, but it is authentic, welcoming andinviting. The former Hill’s Chocolate location was cosmetically renovated. They opened up a wall to theretail area, increased the size of the kitchen and installed all new flooring, plumbing, appliances andpaint, opening in November 2011. The pretty, clothed tables are full of people sipping coffee and tucking into Hungarian crêpes filled

with ricotta and lemon and lightly sprinkled with sugar. Tonolli’s is a humming, busy space and I am sweptup in the welcoming vibe. I want to try everything. I do my best. I start off with a sampling of desserts: a florentine, a chocolate éclair, German apple cake,

gluten-free chocolate tart, lemon tart. While I’m placing my order, my four-year-old dining companionturns off the ground level freezer power switch. Sue McCarten, co-owner, smiles brightly. “Not the firsttime, not the last. Silly place to put the power switch.” Sue and her sister Anita Tonolli have alwaysworked together. The deli is named after Anita’s Italian father-in-law “who passed away just after weopened. He loved to cook and made great family meals, which I had the privilege to be invited to.”My éclair’s centre is a mix of custard (whose organic eggs come from Omnivore Acres eggs), whipped

cream and organic vanilla. It is delicious. The florentine has slightly roasted almonds and the chocolateis divine but does not eclipse the slightly chewy and toasted almond base. The almonds take a perfectcentre stage. The gluten-free chocolate tart is decadent and satisfying. The lemon tart, the “senior’scocaine,” is unusual. Unlike the common lemon tart, the shell had structure, firmness and sweetness.

6991 E. Saanich Rd., Central Saanich | 778-426-2822 |[email protected]

Tonolli’s Deli & Cafe


Heron Rock BistroSince 2005

Supporting Live MusicMonday & Friday Evenings

All Bottles of Wine are $10 less on MondaysOysters and a Pint on Fridays $15

Open 7 days a week!9am-10pmMonday to Friday8:30am-10pm Saturday & Sunday

Sunday to ursday 8pm-10pm50% off all Burgers and Sandwiches

with purchase of a drink

250.383.1545heronrockbistro.ca

left: Savoury tomato tart with feta and onions on all butter crust.right: Chocolate éclair, Gluten-free chocolate tart with pistachio macaron, lemoncheesecake and German apricot kuchen

Cont’d on the next page

Elizabeth Nyland



Distributed by Dovre Import & Export Ltd.p: 800.370.3850 | e : [email protected] | www.dovreimport.com

13931 Bridgeport Road | Richmond, BC V6V 1J6

made in maine | stonewallkitchen.com

Dress for the Occasion



Exceptional. But it is the German apple cake that has me. The top is slightly crusted, sugar-sprinkled. Thebody is moist and the small pieces of apple are sweet and al dente. It is a little sweet, a little doughy,and the delicate crunch of sugar combines for a fantastic cake. We enjoy some smoked turkey and vegetable soup for dessert. The stock and meat are Four

Quarters smoked turkey. It is housemade and tastes like someone who loves you a lot made it just foryou. We follow this with lasagna and a piece of something called Two Castle Bread. Sue’s husband

Murray McCarten went to Akademie Deutsches Bäckerhandwerk in Weinheim, Germany. He spent fiveweeks learning how to make many different kinds of German breads and cakes. The bread, withpumpkin and sunflower seeds, rye and wheat flours, is crusty, dense and moist. The seeds add flavourand texture when toasted.“That lasagna sits perfectly,” says Sue. “The secret is the mollisana lasagne noodles, roasted Roma

tomatoes in the homemade sauce and finally our own freshly made ricotta cheese that I make with homomilk. The cheese is a mozzarella/Edam mix, with a little piave grated in.” Dense, rich, flavourful and easy.With a salad and done! Dinner. So impressive when you want to eat great food at home and not makeit.Tonolli’s is about tradition, slow food, real food, real people. And real recipes. Sue McCarten’s

favourite recipes are her grandmother’s. As well, she is translating a handwritten, 110-year-old Hungarianrecipe book she received from her son’s friend who is second-generation Hungarian-Canadian. It is apleasure to have found this exquisite space, and I can’t encourage you more to go explore Europe onan empty stomach.Also, by the time this is in print, they will have received their new gelato case to offer up 12 gelatos

for the summer. BY GILLIE EASDON

Jay Mannava swirls a thin layer of batter across the hot griddle, the concentric circles growing to forma large lacey crepe. This is the basis of a masala dosa, a South Indian treat that’s rare to find on theisland.“I have customers who come from Nanaimo for dosas,” says Mannava, chef and manager at newly

opened Saaz Restaurant & Lounge in downtown Victoria.Dosas are a particular addiction of mine — a dish I have craved since arriving in Victoria more than

a year ago — and this is apparently the only place to have it.Made with a fermented batter of urad dal, idli rice and rice flour, ground to a paste, Mannava’s

dosas are gluten-free and just as addictive as the crisp crepes I first ate in India. With co-owner RajeshGupta, Mannava opened Saaz in December, in the downtown Yates Street space that housed theformer Curry Lounge. Tucked down a hallway, behind the historic building’s façade, Saaz is a bitchallenging to find, but Mannava hopes the strains of hip Hindi music will attract customers. The off-street room has a fresh look, too, the exposed dark beams and brick walls updated with contemporaryfurnishings, red banquettes and a new bar. The menu ranges from traditional Indian dishes to Mannava’s inventive creations, from a crispy fried

Brussels sprouts appetizer to jackfruit masala with tomatoes and mustard, and Portobello mushrooms withsweet red peppers and fenugreek cream. His specialty is beef short ribs, marinated in red wine andsimmered with ginger and garlic for seven hours, but you’ll also find excellent renditions of classic dishes,from butter chicken to eggplant bharta.Mannava arrived in Victoria four years ago, from his home in Hyderabad, India, via Vancouver. The

former systems analyst caught the culinary bug while working with Nando’s Chicken, and was inspiredby his mother’s cooking to bring south Indian flavours to the island.You’ll find some traditional Hyderabadi foods on the menu — fish curries cooked south Indian style with

coconut milk and rice biryanis with chicken or lamb — though Mannava says his British patrons have afondness for the goat curry. The naan bread arrives perfectly crisp and fluffy from the tandoor oven, andthere’s also a daily lunch buffet ($12).But I always come back for the dosas. Have a plain dosa as a light appetizer, folded and served with

lentil sambhar and coconut chutney for dipping. Or choose the masala dosa, stuffed and rolled arounda tasty potato and onion filling, spiced with chilies, turmeric and kalonji seeds.Mannava’s crisp lentil crepes are made to order and large enough to split as appetizer or have as

part of a larger Indian meal. But believe me, once you try these ethereal and addictive pancakes, youwon’t want to share! BY CINDA CHAVITCH

535 Yates St #103, Victoria | 778.433.7229 | saazrestaurant.com

Saaz



EATING WELL FOR LESS By Elizabeth Monk

Elizabeth Nyland

Elizabeth Nyland

The restaurant at the intimate Point No Point Resort is romance personified. Two smalldining rooms open up to sweeping views of blue-grey sea and sky. So dramatic is the land-scape, and so within the realm of possibility is a whale sighting, that each table has a setof binoculars. Lunch options run from simple to elegant. In the $12 range is the sandwichspecial of the day. Mine was a chipotle mayo BLT on a slender, housemade baguette.Soup of the day, which is included, could be something interesting like the lentil, spinachand almond soup I had. Move into the $15 range, and the magic really starts to happen.Grilled Marinated Salmon with Brie and Parsnip Strudel is a beautiful pastry gift-wrappedin a flourish of greens and topped with a creamy horseradish mousse, abutted by a sliceof juicy barbecued salmon. The crispy confit of chicken leg with cassoulet, brandied cherrysauce and shaved Parmesan goes for the same price. And vegetarian options are cer-tainly available; the vegetarian quesadilla for $12 is a soft and delicious medley of roastedorganic Queensland Blue squash, aged Cheddar, edamame beans and pumpkin seeds.The dessert feature of carrot cake for $4 is imbued with as much flavour as it is history, forit was on the first menu when the current owners started serving simple lunches here in1982.My focus has been the Point No Point lunches, in keeping with the Eating Well for Lesscriteria. However, my true vision for appreciating this place in its entirety is three days spentin one of its oceanview cabins (one with a hot tub on the deck, of course), the daypunctuated by fabulous lunches and dinners in its restaurant. Point No Point is a veryspecial experience.

10829 West Coast Rd., Shirley BC, 250-646-2020

Point No Point

Elizabeth Nyland

Resort, Deli, Market

POINT NO POINT: Grilled Marinated Wild Salmon with Brie and Parsnip Strudel andhorseradish mousse. View from the restaurant over the Juan de Fuca Straight.

THREE VERY DIFFERENT VENUES WITH ONE THING IN COMMON: CREATIVE AND AFFORDABLE FOOD.


Owner Yaseer Youseff holding a large whole wheatNaan. inset: Beef Shawarma with creamy tahinisauce, mixed peppers, onions, lettuce, tomatoes,parsley and pickled turnip on whole wheat pita.


Elizabeth Nyland

Resort, Deli, Market

1551 Cedar Hill Cross Rd. near Shelbourne, 250-727-3632

Fig Delicatessen

Have you driven by Mediterranean Specialty Foods on Quadra Street lately and found it, well, not tobe found? Fear not. It has merely moved, expanded and blossomed into Fig Delicatessen on Cedar HillCross Road. The new space features row upon row of dry goods, an olive bar, a refrigerated case forcheeses and dips and, an exciting new addition, a stone oven. Out of this oven come Mediterraneanpizzas called “manoushis,” which are traditionally rolled up and eaten as breakfast in the Middle East.The bubbly, airy bread bases have different toppings: Zaatar Manoushi for $3.75 is topped with oil andsprinkled with a dark green traditional herb mix; Cheese Manoushi for $4.50 is covered with haloumicheese, a salty, tangy blend of goat, cow and sheep cheese; and Meat Manoushi for $4.95 issprinkled with ground beef and lamb mixed with red pepper paste and onion, and spritz of lemon.Salads range in price depending on size and make a nice accompaniment to the manoushis. The tabouliis just the way I like it: mainly parsley and plenty of lemon. Fattoush is a green salad tossed with redonions, yellow and red pepper, cucumber and—the Middle East’s answer to croutons—pieces of toastedpita. Finally, Fig fills a necessary niche in Victoria by making shawarmas every day for $7. The shawarmameat is a top round cut of beef marinated overnight in coriander, cumin, cardamom and crushed chilis.Shavings of this are stuffed into a pita with tahini sauce, lemon, cumin and, for crunch, lettuce andpickled turnip. You can take any of the above home, sit on tables in a clearing by some of the dry goodsor enjoy the patio in the summer.



Luxembourg CollectionPhotgraph by Stéphane Rambaud

GOOD FOOD IS WITangle up some friends and head dorrangle up some friends and head doW

ers fresh, local, flavOur menu offOur menu offers fresh, local, flav

HIN RANGEGOOD FOOD IS WITVista 18wn to angle up some friends and head do

Wild ours from the ers fresh, local, flav

HIN RANGEVista 18!

est Coast.WWild

Elizabeth Nyland

1701 Douglas St. at the Hudson Market, 778-433-4385

Cowichan Bay Seafood

At the Hudson Market grand opening, I seem to remember one or two menu items at Cowichan BaySeafood. A couple of months later, a couple more. And now, the chalkboard at the seafood-store-cum-casual restaurant is full of options: chowder, cioppino, tacos, mussels, popcorn shrimp, fish and chips andmore. The fish and chips are my new favourite in town, with a coating as light as air and halibut as moistas an ocean breeze. The batter is gluten-free and made with what turns out to be an airy concoction ofchick pea flour, rice flour and club soda. One piece with chips is $11.50 for sockeye and $13 forhalibut. The popcorn shrimp cleverly bridges children and adult tastes. If you ask me, popcorn shrimpare the potato chip of seafood—a totally addictive snack when done well. These have plenty of crunchthanks to cornmeal and are sassed up for more adventuresome adults with a choice of chipotle or wasabiaioli as a dip. A small is $7 and a large is $13. Menu items for the more sophisticated palate include Mussels Braised in Phillips Ginger Beer. The

sauce is definitely gingery yet grounded by the earthier flavours of caramelized onions and roastedgarlic. These go for $8 for half a pound and $12 for a pound. The tacos for $10.99 are just ascomplex, with sockeye or halibut tossed with lime, cilantro and a red cabbage coleslaw steeped inapple cider vinegar. Chef Leana Meyer is Red Seal certified and it shows. She also used to be a buyerat Albion Fisheries. That, too, shows in the fresh-from-the-sea flavours and creative offerings.

Chef Leana Meyer holding up two Dungeness crabs. inset: Fish & Chips, Popcorn shrimp, Mussels Braised in Phillips Ginger Beer.

E


Salt Spring...summer

Find our coffee this summer 7 days a week in front of Mahon Hall in

downtown Ganges!

Fresh, Organic, Delicious, Delovingly, prepared just for you.

mtmaxwellcoffeeroasters

follow us Fever.Tree.Trading

102 Fulford Ganges Rd.250.931.3387250.931.3387

102 Fulford Ganges Rd.

Fever.Tree.Tradingfollow us

artist gallery and gift shop

june 13 to september 14open daily 10-5

salt spring island

Mahon HallDowntown Ganges

Cottage on the lake, farmers markets, artfully curated boutiques, art galleries and relaxing spas for you to enjoy. Explore Salt Spring Island’s natural surroundings. Treat yourself. Take a trip over to one of the most artisanal communities in Canada.

SPECIAL EAT PROMOTION



BUON APPETITO!And you will at any one of

Victoria’s fine Italian restaurants.

IFELL IN LOVE WITH ITALIAN CUISINE during extendedvisits to Rome, Tuscany and Sicily. In Italy, long, leisurelymeals of traditional dishes sourced from nearby farms andfields were sumptuous, joyous feasts. There’s a reason why theSlow Food Movement was founded and thrives in Italy. Foodand dining are central to the culture, and I wanted toexperience meals like that at home in Canada.

Luckily, Victoria has a wealth of wonderful Italian restaurants. Myfavourites range from formal to casual dining, but all share a warmthand familial charm as well as menu offerings based upon traditionalrecipes and regional sources.In 1999, Jo and Peter Zambri opened a tiny bistro in a non-descript

strip mall behind London Drugs on Yates Street called Zambri’s. Acouple of years ago, when they moved their restaurant down Yates toarchitect Frank D’Ambrosio’s beautifully designed Atrium, theymanaged to keep their original restaurant’s warmth and charm in amuch larger, urbane and elegant space. Zambri’s menu continues to beinspired by the years Peter spent working in Italian kitchens, his family’straditional recipes and the finest locally sourced ingredients. Recently, after relaxing at a table in Zambri’s indoor patio with a

Broken Negroni cocktail (Cinzano Rosso, Cynar Amaro, Prosecco), Ienjoyed a meal of crispy oysters with frisee and smoked paprikamayonnaise, a share of my wife’s large Caesar salad and penne withsmoked salmon, capers and cream while sipping a glass of Gavi di Gavifrom the Piedmont. Simple, yet rich and delicious.Silvia Marcolini and Greg Hays have created another of my local

favourites at Cafe Brio. The restaurant’s bright yellow exterior andverdant patio entrance, just steps away from Fort Street traffic, feels likea trip to the Italian countryside. Once inside Brio, the married couple’swarmth accentuates these romantic echoes of the old country. A largecollection of paintings by local artists lines the brightly coloured walls,the room’s lighting and the enticing scents emanating from chef LaurieMunn’s farm-to-table kitchen all create a magical atmosphere. Silvia won over our hearts more than two decades ago when she took

our new baby in her arms and entertained her while my wife and Ishared our first post-birth, romantic meal. That night, Silvia brought usa plate of Olives Ascolane, her mother’s stuffed olive specialty, as anappetizer. Since then we’ve always ordered it to begin our meals at CafeBrio. During Victoria’s warm season we dine al fresco on the patio. When

dining with a large group of friends, we reserve one of the enclosed

Words by Joseph BlakePhotography by Rebecca Wellman

1

During Victoria’s warm season wedine al fresco on the patio.

32


tables that flank the frontdoor. And we invariablytake our time, Italian-style, enjoying chefMunn’s inspired offeringsof local duck, pork andseafood.

Il Terrazzo is anotherlocal favourite, a classyroom with adjacent patiodining hidden down analley off lower JohnsonStreet. A knowledgeable,

attentive staff provide great service. There is a well-curated wine list and a menuthat plays on traditional Italian dishes like cannelloni stuffed with pulled pork,mozzarella, cabbage and apples. Other personal favourites are Pollo Apollonia, pan-roasted chicken breast with prawns, scallops, bacon, tomatoes, garlic, basil andMarsala wine served with three-cheese fusilli, and Scallopine de Mailale, a panko-breaded pork tenderloin. In season, the seafood offerings are particularly tasty. Fromthe first bites of the warm bread and olive tapenade to the evening-capping espresso,Il Terrazzo provides a consistently note-perfect fine dining experience.

Fiamo is a relatively new spot, casual and reasonably priced. The narrow, brick-walled, split-level bistro on lower Yates Street has a rustic atmosphere, personableservice and large portions of artisanal pizza, pasta, salads and specials like ahi tunasteaks and roasted leg of lamb. Butternut squash-stuffed ravioli with goat cheese,pasta carbonara with pancetta and free-range eggs, and seafood risotto with prawns,

23www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2014Cont’d on the next page

5

4



Zambri’s, 820 Yates St., 250-360-1171

Cafe Brio, 944 Fort St., 250-383-0009

Il Terrazzo, 555 Johnson St., 250-361-0028

Fiamo, 515 Yates St., 250-388-5824

Prima Strada, 230 Cook St., 250-590-8595

Padella, 2524 Estevan Ave., 250-592-7424

Catalano, 621 Courtney St., 250-480-1824

Pagliacci’s, 1011 Broad St., 250-386-1662

E

mussels, squidand halibut aresome of thedishes I’veenjoyed at Fiamo.There’s a goodselection ofItalian and B.C.wines on offer bythe glass and ahip, playful buzzat the bar.

Prima Stradahas a newlocation in RockBay, but I stilllove their originalCook StreetVillage venue. It’sa top-notch,casual joint forfamily meals.Caputo Neapoli-tan flour is bakedto smoky, thin-crust perfection in their wood-fired pizzaoven. Topped with salumi made by OakBay’s Whole Beast and Prima Strada’s ownhomemade sausage and pepperoni, thesepizzas are a meat eater’s dream. I also lovethe Margherita pizza, a simple gem featuringtomato, basil and mozzarella de buffalo fromthe water buffalo herd at Fairburn Farm inCowichan Valley. There are several insalateand antipasti offerings and six Italiandesserts on a menu that also includesselected beers and Italian wine by the glass.

Honourable Mentions:

Padella for chef Kyle Gignal’s fresh pasta

dishes and an excellent list of B.C. and

Italian wines.

Catalano for its spacious, elegant ambiance,

clever cocktails and delicious cicchetti

(Italian tapas).

Pagliacci’s for the Siegel brothers’ long

tenure, their room’s noisy, jubilant

atmosphere, and the menu’s long-standing

DiFore family recipes.

6

7

8

10

9

Photos1,2,3| ZAMBRIS |Eggplant cannoli – fior Di latte cheese,tomato scented with cumin, mint and chilis. Jo and PeterZambri. Spot prawns, fried sage, green pepper passata,seared ling cod4, 5 | IL TERRAZZO | Cozze - Steamed mussels with sun-dried tomatoes, spicy banana peppers, roasted garlic, redonion, fresh cilantro, white wine, fresh lime, asiago cheeseand cream. Shellie and Mike Gudgeon6, 7 | Prima Strada | Quattro stazione, CristenDeCarolis and Geoffrey Dallas 8 | Cafe Brio | House made salumi selection, housebrined olives and house made mustards, mortadella, Brioprosciutto, rhubarb veal and pork mosaic.9, 10 | FIAMO | Notorious R.I.B. - Roasted rabbit, stuffedwith chicken, wrapped in prosciutto with crispy grilledfennel arancini, roasted paddy pans, black radish ‘slaw andmaple mustard sauce. Chef James Avila.



Sidney could soon be known as the biking and café-culture destination for cycling enthusiasts of Greater Victoria. Walkaround Sidney any morning and you will find the coffee shops bustling with conversation and laughter and a stack of bikesoutside.

Why bike to Sidney? For starters, the Lochside Regional Trail is a picturesque 29KM trail that stretches from Victoria to SwartzBay. Cyclists pass by beaches, farmlands and suburban neighbourhoods. The trail is mostly flat and is made up of paved pathsand compressed gravel. As you approach the vibrant seaside Town of Sidney, passing by Tulista Park along the ocean you canride straight ahead to downtown Sidney, full of boutique shops, restaurants, attractions and outdoor activities such as whalewatching, kayaking from Glass Beach and fishing from the historic pier. Once you have arrived you must reward yourself with a refreshment break! Cyclists pack the many coffee shops in Sidney

all day long and spots such as Toast encourage group gatherings with long family style tables (inside and outside) to inspireconversation and provide opportunities to meet new riders. Stepping inside Toast Café you may feel as though you have walked

in to a hipster café in Portland. Serving up locally roasted coffee and thoughtfully homemade bakedgoods the fun and efficient team at Toast know what their customers want. If you are lucky enoughto drop in on a Wednesday you must try their Wicked Thai Chicken soup (and yes all soup comeswith toast!). Along with everything else you come to expect at a great café you will also find plentyof gluten free and vegan options on offer. There is even a spot for the wee ones to have some downtime and if you prefer to park yourself on a couch, well they have those too.The options for your daily caffeine fix are in abundance in Sidney. Cruise down Beacon Avenue,

park your ride at one of the many newly installed bike racks and peruse your options. Sidney hasit all on offer for the coffee connoisseur from Starbucks, Tim Hortons, Serious Coffee to theindependent and proudly locally owned cafes such as Red Brick, Stone Street, Lunn’s Bakery &Coffee Shop and Alexander’s Coffee Bar. Another reason to bike to Sidney is the unique and surprising shopping experience that awaits

you. The savvy shop owners in Sidney know how to keep their customers who turn up on 2-wheelshappy. If you have a significant purchase some shop owners will often personally deliver your itemsfor you right to your front door. Now that is seriously fabulous customer service, right? Did I men-tion the five uniquely independent bookshops? Again, Sidney reminds me just a little of Portland.All of these cyclists rely on trusty bike shops to keep them running smoothly. Russ Hays Bicycle

Shop located on Bevan Avenue opened its doors in the mid 70’s and hasn’t stopped since. Owner and hands-on Manager Connor Conley is open on Sundays for a good reason,they can see up to 30 walk-in repairs on a busy Sunday. Russ Hays is open seven days a week to service the growing needs of the biking community in Sidney. Only a few minutes from the core of Sidney is The Flight Path that encircles the Victoria International Airport. This 9.3KM trail offers both novice and expert cyclists a great

opportunity for exercise and to take-in the scenic views of the Saanich Peninsula. You really must come out to Sidney by bike and see what all the rage is about. Don’t forget your pocket money as the culinary offerings and the boutique shopping experience

completes the perfect day out, by bike! For more information visit www.distinctlysidney.ca

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

Fantastic cycling, bustling cafés and unique shoppingmake Sidney a destination for a perfect day out.

Eat Mag Ad • Size 4.375” wide x 2.25” high • Final File • June 03/14

9805 Seaport PlaceSidney, BC

If you cycle by around noon, check out our

lunch time made-to-order sandwich tube!

Enjoy freshly baked goods and Umbria Coffee every day of the week 7am-6pm

Bike. Eat. Shop. Sidney!



Your Friendly Neighbourhood Butcher... A Cut Above

2577 Cadboro Bay Road, VICTORIA

592-0823

Quality meats,

Poultry, Cheeses,

Specialty Products

& Condiments

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

With the craft beer explosion that has rocked Vancouver over the last year or two, it would seem that

anything made outside of B.C.’s borders just wouldn’t stand a chance against the onslaught of local

micro- and even nano-breweries. It seems, however, that Vancouverites are willing to give the nod to

their American forerunners and celebrate the many artisan brews that come out of the state of Oregon.

Portland Craft, as the name might suggest, caters to those believers in a big way. With almost 20

beers on tap, plus another 10 or so in bombers and growlers, it’s an excellent rotating selection that

includes the likes of Occidental, Skagit River, No-Li, Diamond Knot and Basecamp. The wine list isn’t a

big focus, obviously, but a few respectable reds and whites, like the Lakebreeze gewürtz or the Hester

Creek merlot, do make the list. Cocktails are heavy on the bourbon (there’s a very good selection of the

latter, including a flight offering of any four for $10.25).

And, while the hops are from south of the border, the food is as locally and sustainably sourced as is

possible in Vancouver. Most of the produce, for instance, comes via Inner City Farms from local back-

yard producers. The food is well-paired to the beer offerings, but stands well on its own as well. Buttery

green beans with lemon and pepper ($4) get inhaled by the child, as does the steelhead trout tartare.

We fought over it, in fact, and I ended up ordering another one for myself—which, at five dollars a plate,

wasn’t onerous. The frites ($6) are excellent and paired with roasted garlic aioli or a housemade ketchup.

As for larger dishes, don’t miss the braised pork belly ($9) with roasted shallots and fingerling

potatoes. The excellent fattiness is cut perfectly by grainy mustard and sweet roasted shallots. Burgers

aren’t usually cause for a rave, but this one ($14) is a doozy, ground in-house and topped with basil,

pickled beets and aged cheddar. It’s bold and big, a definite two-fister that demands serious attention.

Even seasonal desserts, like the apple-rhubarb crumble, reinforce the fact that cross-border friendships

can be a match made in heaven. BY ANYA LEVYKH

3835 Main St. | 604.569.2494 | www.portlandcraft.comPortland Craft

Some people only eat ice cream in the hot summer months. I am not one of those people. Gelato,

sorbetto or good old-fashioned milk and cream make an excellent finish to any meal. One of the latest

purveyors of classic cool is Rain or Shine in Kitsilano. Opened by industry neophytes (and spouses)

Josie Fenton and Blair Casey, it’s a classic ice cream shop with a very modern and sustainable ethos.

The room is clean, bright and built with reclaimed wood from the Olympic Village, antique milk

bottles and random kitsch like the “unicorn” bull on one wall (yes, that is a waffle cone on top of his head).

Counter service is cheery and knowledgeable, and the goods are available by the scoop or pint.

The sustainable ethos rules the menu as well. Most of the ingredients are local/ethical, organic,

seasonal and sustainable. Blueberries come from Driediger Farms, balsamic vinegar reduction from

Vancouver Olive Oil and stout is sourced from Brassneck Brewery. Add in the lack of chemical additives

or emulsifiers, and you have some seriously good product.

The ice cream is dense and expressive, and the 15 rotating flavours (10 of which are available year-

round) give you the chance to find your perfect pairing. Highlights included blueberry balsamic and the

brown butter snickerdoodle (really). Can’t decide? Order a flight of any four flavours for $9. Pints are

the same price. Try to come on a Tuesday, because Rain or Shine is the first ice cream shop in Vancouver

to throw their crème into a taco. Yes, that’s right, an ice cream waffle taco for $6, with a variety of

toppings. (Did I mention everything, including the cones and tacos, is made in-house?)

And speaking of toppings, these are stellar. Hot fudge and caramel sauce are standard offerings, but

candied hazelnuts? Buckwheat honey? Fig balsamic reduction? I think not. Honey lavender with toffee

brittle and the hazelnuts one night sent me into a swoon.

And, lest we forget those with special diets, there are several vegan flavours, as well as a gluten-free

cone for those watching their wheat intake. BY ANYA LEVYKH

102-1926 West 4 Ave. | 604.428.7246 | www.rainorshineicecream.comRain or Shine Ice Cream

VANCOUVER



award-winning, innovative, island-sourced cuisine

509 fisgard street, victoria 250.590.8795ulla.caulla.ca

eet, victoriad strar509 fisg 250.590.8795

FRESHLittle Farm WineryRosé 2013Similkameen Valley, BC*$25 13%All a rosé should be: pure, bright andvibrant. This single vineyard, 100% cabfranc beauty should be your go-to pinkthis year. Wild strawberry and tangerinearomas lead to fragrant cherries, driedsage and dusty, stony spice.

TACTILEBernard BaudryLes Grézeaux 2010Chinon AC, Loire, France$33.50 13%Iconic producer. 50+ year old vines,fermented in concrete and aged inneutral barrels, yields alluring (andcharmingly funky) notes of sand, cassis,cherry, earth and pencil lead. Clay cladtannins end with great spice and length.

RESINOUSInniskillin Cabernet Franc 2011Niagara Peninsula, Ontario$14 13.5%The herbaceous vein that cab franc canveer to is in full effect here, though notto its detriment. Fresh and spicy, withpine branch, bing cherry, tart cranberryand tobacco leaf on the finish.

SAVOURYOveja NegraCabernet Franc / Carménère Reserva2011Valle del Maule, Chile*$16 13.5%Carménère supports in this satisfying andcomplete mouthfilling blend, withsundried cherry, salted olives, tobacco,bramble and bacon notes.

DEEPSynchromesh WinesTertre Rouge 2011, Turtle Rock FarmsNaramata, Okanagan Valley, BC*$35 13.8%From a single vineyard above theNaramata Bench comes this expressivecab franc/merlot blend with black cherry,spicy cassis, sun ripened tomato, darkchocolate, roasted coffee and fragrantblackberry.

STRUCTUREDParadigmCabernet Franc 2009Oakville, Napa Valley, California*$75 14.3% A beautifully rich and structured Napared, with deep and ripe cassis, crackedblack pepper and herbal thorns balancedout over a supple, complete palate.

VINCABULARY By Treve Ring

Cabernet Franc {cab-er-nay FRAWNK}

It’s easy to mistake cabernet franc for cabernetsauvignon lite. On paper, all signs point that way. Cabfranc buds and ripens early than cab sauv, it’s lighterin tannins, colour and body than the king of grapes,and typically matures earlier in the bottle. Mais non -in reality, cab franc predates and even begat the king,as cabernet sauvignon is a cross between parentscabernet franc and sauvignon blanc. While the peppery, perfumed and finessed franc can

certainly hold its own, it is often selected to play asupporting, rather than starring role. It has proven tobe an excellent blending partner to its heir, especiallywhen accompanied by merlot, as in Bordeaux andMeritage blends. Here, the green tinged raspberry,herbal tobacco, cassis and leafy notes add a fresh andlifted seasoning note to the blend. Dependable franc isconsidered viticultural insurance in the vineyard,

ripening in cooler years when cabernet sauvignon won’t. The grape is well accustomedto cooler climates; it was found in France’s Loire Valley in the 17th century, plantedat the Abbey of Bourgueil under the care of Abbot Breton (Breton is one synonym forthe grape). Cabernet Franc is an indie darling of many BC winemakers, who appreci-ate the complementary savoury and herbal notes of this characterful blue-black grape.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.



MossStreetMarket.com

MossSt.Market Saturdays (10am-2pm)

with over 25 local organic farmers

Catch the

OUTDDOOR FUFUNUNU !N!NSummmmmeer

OUTdoor fun!Summer

86’dResponding to the shifting sands of demographics andeconomics, restaurants are reinventing themselvesmore quickly than ever before. By Tim Pawsey

Some restaurants endure without change for decades. Perhaps that’s eventheir strength. Think Hy’s as a, well, prime example. But in an ever-morerapidly evolving world prone to fad and fashion, the pressure to yield tochange is greater than ever.

Early in May I found myself at Bistro Pastis on West 4th Avenue in Vancouver. Theoccasion was the bistro’s 15th anniversary, for which owner John Blakeley threw acelebratory reception followed by dinner, with each course prepared by a differentchef—including himself. It was a soirée well attended by media and a crowd ofappreciative regulars. I doubt any one gave much thought to the restaurant’s moreformal origins—as fine dining Pastis—very much the destination West Side Frenchroom whose white-linen persona, just a few years after he established it, Blakeleyshifted to the more laidback Bistro Pastis.At what point does it make sense to fold up the tent and move on, either figuratively

or literally?A couple of years ago, Blakeley bought Bistro Paris on Denman (once the hallowed

Café de Paris, where he worked when “fresh off the boat”) and reshaped it into LeParisien. At the time, says Blakeley, it just seemed the right thing to do. But he admitsquite candidly that his timing and style in launching the restaurant two years agomay not have been precisely right. And Blakeley now says it’s time for yet anotherchange. If all goes according to plan, by mid-June Le Parisien and all that it echoesfrom past incarnations will have disappeared.“When I took over, it was an institution that had been around since 1977. It was

damaged and run down. The idea of restoring the West End’s classic French bistrounder a revitalized name and look seemed like a no-brainer,” he says.“But unfortunately the message we put across was not what the West End has

become or what people are looking for. Even though the business plan was right, evenwith the fresh new look and everything else, our execution was wrong. We were tooformal, right down to our staff uniforms. We even wound up attracting our clientelefrom Pastis—which was not the plan!”

VANCOUVER

The soon to be rebranded Le Parisien on Denman Street.


E


TASTING ROOM HOURS WEEKDAYSWEEKENDS

12PM-5PM11AM-6PM

6181B OLD WEST SAANICH ROAD

INTIMATE TASTING ROOM | OUTDOOR SEATING with a VIEW

GO ONLINE TO WWW.DEVINEVINEYARDS.CA

CALL OR EMAIL US 250.665.6983 [email protected]

like us facebook.com/devinevineyardsfollow us @DEVINEVINEYARDS on twitter

2014 SEASON

TASTING ROOM HOURS WEEKDAYSWEEKENDS

12PM-5PM11AM-6PM

6181B OLD WEST SAANICH ROAD

INTIMATE TASTING ROOM | OUTDOOR SEATING with a VIEW

GO ONLINE TO WWW.DEVINEVINEYARDS.CA

CALL OR EMAIL US 250.665.6983 [email protected]

like us facebook.com/devinevineyardsfollow us @DEVINEVINEYARDS on twitter

2014 SEASON

WINERYopen daily

May 10th

to September 28th

local customer appreciation Monday to Thursday in May, *ask for details during your visit

When we talked, Blakeley had yet to completely finalize Le Parisien’snew name (“It will be something French, though not totally French,” hesays*. Nevertheless, he is moving ahead on several fronts to reopen hisnew concept by mid-summer.It’s the golden rule of business, any business, Blakeley says. “The bottom

line is: if it’s not working, you have to change.”Among those who’d concur is Angus An, who originally opened then

cutting-edge Gastropod. The only trouble was, despite rave reviews, An’sinspired molecular cuisine and sous-vide specialties were not appealing tothat broad a base. In short, Gastropod’s timing was off. And, furtherbuffeted by the double whammy of a fast-moving recession, therestaurant’s chances of success looked bleaker by the week.An and his Thai-born wife Kate Auewattanakorn quickly put “plan B”

into play. Rapidly reworking the room and drawing on their Londonexperience with legendary David Thompson (of Nahm fame), theyrelaunched with Maenam as a destination, contemporary Thai room—something they felt Vancouver was lacking—in just three weeks. The rest,you could say, is history. (Other rebrandings, such as Gastropod’s neighbour Fuel into the far-less-

formal Refuel proved less successful, prompting owners Robert Belchamand Tom Doughty to focus fully on Campagnolo.)John Blakeley struggled long and hard before deciding to diverge from

the path first taken almost 40 years ago at Café de Paris. But he’sconvinced that Vancouver—and the West End in particular—is ready fora quantum shift away from the classic bistro style of the original café andits various successors that led to Le Parisien.A major part of the new look includes the first restaurant patio to be

located in a West End commercial lane. After an eighteen-month City ofVancouver approval process, the new 35-seat, south-facing terrace willopen in time for peak summer—and well beyond. “I think it will make a big impact,” says Blakeley, who says the final

design will be well suited to more year-round use. Inside, the room willalso sport an entirely new feel, with more of a lounge setting, windowsthat open right onto Denman, and servers in less defined uniforms thanthe classic bistro black and white.The look has changed. And the demographics have changed—a lot,” he

says.

There’ll also be “more atmosphere” and activity to “add some buzz,”likely in the form of an oyster bar.“It’s all about the new style of Vancouver, which is way more casual than

we were used to 15 years ago,” says the restaurateur. And that goes also forthe menu.“We’ll have a bistro style but much more snacks, appetizers and small

plates. All under $20. Anything more than that just doesn’t work in theWest End any more,” suggests Blakeley, pointing to nearby Nook, Españaand a clutch of popular Asian rooms.Not to mention newly unwrapped Fat Badger (while hardly a makeover),

a British inspired “gastro pub” in the old home occupied by long-runningbut now vanished—and once unswervingly formal—Le Gavroche.* At press time John Blakeley announced the new name will be Left Bank

“It’s all about the new style ofVancouver, which is way morecasual than we were used to

15 years ago,”



Cinda Chavich

Why Bitter is Better

I’m standing amongst a maze of hessian sacks in theTemple of Hops, literally immersed in the sweet,earthy aroma of a flower that is the bitter essence ofbeer.

Here, in the warm attic of one of the many traditionalhop storehouses in the picturesque Czech town of Zatec,it’s the noble variety of Saaz hops that’s celebrated, a mildaromatic hop that has made Czech Pilsner one of theworld’s most famous beers. Over a few giant mugs of golden lager and a massive

knuckle of beer-braised pork in the museum restaurant,brewing advisor Jiri Vent explains how an ancient culturefirst uncovered the magic of Bohemian hops. “From thisarea, beer with hops came to Europe,” he says, describingthe region’s earliest inhabitants—Homo lupulus or “thehop people”—who discovered, more than 1,000 years ago,that adding the cones of wild hops to their brews wouldpreserve them, while adding a unique bitter flavour.“Bavarian and Czech beers are tasty—this is the simple

reason.” That taste, the bitterness that comes from lupulin (alpha

and beta acids) in hops, is both antibacterial andcalming. It’s used to preserve beer and is a naturalsedative, which may explain why that first beer after worktastes so good.But it doesn’t explain our current obsession with

double-hopped IPAs and other extremely bitter flavours.

Whether it’s punchy green olive oils, high-cacao artisanchocolate or shots of double espresso before breakfast,North Americans are embracing bitterness. According to Sensient Flavors, a company that produces

flavours for the food industry, bitter flavours are hot, withboth Fernet (a bitter Italian digestif) and Willamette Hoplisted among the top flavour trends for 2014.Here on the west coast, the land of hoppy craft beer,

artisan cocktail bitters and kale Caesars (made with thebitter greens that grow year round here), is ground zero forbitter food fans. “The Victorian palate seems to have a natural affinity

for tart and bitter things,” says Nate Caudle, bartender atVictoria’s Little Jumbo, where the bar nuts are flavouredwith Fernet-Branca and the bittersweet Negroni is apopular aperitif. “Maybe it’s a backlash to the Britishculture of sweets, but what I hear most is: ‘Give me acocktail with so-and-so spirits, not sweet.’”Whether it’s “potable bitters”—Italian amaros like

Campari, Cynar, Aperol or Fernet-Branca—or “dashable”bitters like Angostura and Peychaud’s, the cocktail crafthas embraced the world of bitters. Mixologists make theirown bitter extracts or look to local products, fromVictoria Spirits’ Bitter & Twisted line (orange, rosemary-grapefruit and black pepper bitters) to House MadeBitters, a small-batch maker of extracts ranging fromgrapefruit and lavender to sundried tomato andchocolate.

Lauren Mote, the Vancouver bartender behind theaward-winning Bittered Sling cocktail bitters, says a bitterelement, when used correctly, lifts other flavours in adrink or dish. “Bitterness adds depth and enhancesflavour,” she says. “Think about a chocolate chip cookie.Vanilla extract, a bitter component, is necessary in therecipe so you can really taste the butter, sugar andchocolate.” Mote says her line of Bittered Sling extracts,created with partner and chef Jonathan Chovancek, areinspired by world cuisine and suitable for both cocktailsand cooking, though cocktails, by definition, mustinclude bitters. “Bitters are to cocktails what salt andpepper is to cooking,” Mote explains, describing the arrayof alcohol-based extracts as the “bartender’s spice rack.” “All of our bitters are extracts, but not all of our extracts

are bitter,” she adds. Their spicy Plum & Rootbeer workswith chocolate, in ice cream or to deglaze the pan whenroasting beef, while the Grapefruit & Hops extract, acombination of bitter and herbaceous grapefruit with B.C.Cascade hops, boosts a Caipirinha or Margarita with adouble dose of citrus and adds zest to shellfish dishes. “Orjust add a dash to sparkling water for a healthy, refreshingdrink,” says Mote. “These ingredients are incredibly goodfor you.”Which may be another reason why health-conscious

west coasters are eschewing sweet and embracing bitter. Bitter tonics have long been prescribed for health,

whether it’s the stomach-settling properties of Jägermeis-ter or the digestive stimulus of a Campari aperitif. It’s the bitter-tasting carotenoids, flavonoids and

polyphenols in spinach, cranberries, dark chocolate andkale that make them good for us, the bitter flavour itselfstimulating taste receptors that signal the stomach toproduce gastric acid and digestive enzymes. Herbalists saybitters are fat burners and should be part of every meal,either in the form of bitter greens or tonics containingartichoke, dandelion and other bitter herbs. Bittercompounds stimulate the liver, stomach and gall bladder,enhance digestion and even act as antidepressants. InChinese and Ayurvedic medicine, bitter melon is used tobalance blood sugar levels, fight bacteria and detoxify theliver—bitter yin to the yang of sweets.Conventional wisdom holds that bitterness is nature’s

way of warning us against ingesting poisonous plants, butit’s not a theory that stands up to scrutiny says island chefand wild plant expert Bill Jones, author of The DeerholmeForaging Book. It’s wise to avoid wild foods that tasteextremely bitter, he says, as it may signal the presence oftoxins. But bitterness is also a sign that fruits are simplyunderripe and just not ready to eat. “Sugars equal energyso it makes sense that prehistoric people would choosesweet, ripe berries and young shoots over bitter plants,”says Jones.Still, bitter foods are essential. “Bitter can be overused,

Whether it’s high-cacao chocolate, artisan cocktail bitters or alpha-hoppy beer, North Americans are embracing bitterness.

By Cinda Chavich

FLAVOUR EXPLORATION



like hot chilies, but it can also add excitement to a dish. All of my cooking has toachieve a balance of sweet, sour, salty and bitter.”If bitterness is bothersome, it can be tamed by cooking. Jones says grilling is a

great way to cook bitter greens. whether it’s Chinese gai lan or Italian radicchio,the high heat caramelizes sugars while the char acts as a foil to bitter flavours.Adding salt enhances sweetness and suppresses bitterness, too, and fat or dairycan mellow bitter tastes. So brush those Asian greens with miso or serve yourradicchio with sea salt and a bit of Parmigiano-Reggiano.Some say the new love of bitterness is evidence that our palates are maturing,

moving from things like sweet sodas to dry wines, from cheap candy to qualitychocolate. Others see the highly hopped, bitter beer trend as the completeopposite—an immature kind of macho extremism, akin to recent hot sauce orextreme sour fads.But there’s no doubt bitterness is big in the brewing world. Many craft brewers

now publish the IBU (international bittering units) number on the labels of theirhoppiest brews. Hopheads tally up IBUs and debate the merits of “super-alpha”hop varieties like Apollo, Centennial and Summit. Brewers are pushing bitteringever higher in what’s been dubbed the “hops arms race.” And now, at 2500 IBUs,Barrie, Ontario’s Flying Monkeys Craft Brewery claims its Alpha-Fornication is theworld’s hoppiest beer.Why? Perhaps small brewers and their fans are simply getting used to all of this

bitterness. Bitter flavours in beer, coffee, olives, tea, even broccoli may taste strong and

bitter to the uninitiated palate, but there’s evidence that your bitterness thresholdincreases as you consume more bitter food and drink. And bitterness, like sugar,may even become addictive.“When I began tasting these bitter IPAs I found even the lowest IBU beers shock-

ingly strong,” says Victoria beer writer Joe Weibe. “But now I try them all and findeach better and better.” Weibe says once you push past your bitterness threshold,“you stop tasting the bitter and you taste the other flavours behind it.”“You have to build your palate up, but then a whole new world opens up,” says

Weibe. “Suddenly new sweet citrus flavours appear—tangerine, tropical fruit, sweetpink grapefruit—and you just want to come back for more.”While double- and triple-hopped IPAs are a North American phenomenon, now

even Bohemian brewers are adding more bitterness to their beers. In Prague, wherethey say traditional Pilsner runs through the veins of every citizen (Czechs lead theworld in per capita beer consumption), there’s a growing taste for hoppyinternational styles, too.“This is our American Pale Ale,” says Lukas Bakule, manager of Klášterní

Pivovar Strahov (the Strahov Monastic Brewery), where a new generation ofbrewers has taken over where 13th-century monks left off. While traditionalPilsner, with local aromatic hops, is one of the 15 varieties they brew, bitter hopsfrom around the world go into Prohibition Double IPA and APA (American PaleAle). The latter approaches North American style, with “prolonged bitterness andfruity aroma,” but is nothing like the hoppy IPAs brewed here at home. Driftwood’s Fat Tug—the gold standard among Victoria’s IPAs—is loaded with

citrusy, piney, grassy aromas and flavour, a favourite for hop lovers with 80+ IBUs.Nelson Brewing Company’s flagship is the organic Full Nelson Imperial IPA, at 90IBUs, while Russell Brewery in Surrey makes Hop Therapy Double IPA (with 100IBUs). Hoyne Brewing Co. offers Devil’s Dream IPA, loaded with Simcoe, Citra andCentennial hops, and Phillips’s lineup of hop-centric brews, sold in their Hop Boxcollections, include Jackalope IPA, Hop Circle IPA, Hoperation Tripel Cross andAmnesiac Double IPA. Driftwood’s latest offering, Twenty Pounder Double IPA,promises “an explosive ordinance of IBUs.”So we know where bittering began, but where will it end? This summer, Russell

Brewery is returning to traditional roots with its Eastern Promises, an unpasteur-ized Czech-style Pilsner made with golden Vienna and Munich malts and milderSaaz hops. With just 50 IBUs, it’s closer to the Czech original, Pilsner Urquell.More bitterness is not always better, says Weibe, but it’s a flavour you can learn

to love. “A well-made IPA is a complex beer that showcases a whole spectrum offlavours,” he says. “It’s a balancing act.” So pass the G&T’s, shake up the Negronis and pour the IPAs—a little bitter makes

everything taste better!

Meating

MEATS

www.tworiversmeats.com 604.990.5288 [email protected]

TWO RIVERS SPECIALTY MEATS DIRECT TO CONSUMER PROGRAM

4.990.5288 infts.com 60smeaerivor.twwww

[email protected] inf mosmeats.cerivortw

modern bistroingredient-drivenhealthy cuisinefresh juice bar

lakeside

2131 Lake Placid Road, Whistler BC

www.nitalakelodge.com1-888-755-6482

E



Small Bites PartyFood

with CastroBoateng

photographed by Lille Louise Majorwords by Gary Hynes

It was a beautiful day when I headed out to Metchosin, where chef CastroBoateng was preparing a small feast for EAT. Boateng is a busy and talentedman. He’s a chef, caterer, forager, cooking instructor, and a food stylist(recently he cooked a big roast of venison—that viewers are supposed tothink could be a child!—for a scene in the TV series, Gracepoint, being shotin Oak Bay). Born in Ghana on the west coast of Africa, Boateng graduated

from culinary school in Toronto and went on to work at numerous fine diningrestaurants around the world, including Turnberry Resort in Scotland, theFairmont Southampton Princess in Bermuda, the Rimrock Resort Hotel in Banff,and the Aerie on Vancouver Island (where he was Executive Chef), before settlingin Victoria to raise a family and dedicate himself to his own unique style of cuisine.Boateng describes his cooking as a mix of French, Scottish, Japanese, and Germaninfluences with a soupçon of spice from his African upbringing. “What I like aboutwhat I’m doing now,” says Boateng, “is I’m able to take local ingredients, likeAlbacore tuna, and still put in the flavours and spices that I’m accustomed to.” For this menu, we asked Boateng to create three dishes that can be served either

family-style or as canapés at a cocktail party. To start, Boeteng prepared adistinctive bar snack comprised of exotic root vegetable chips, spiced cashews,avocado, and a tomato salsa. I was wowed. Up next were spoon-sized bites ofspiced-cured Albacore tuna and salad with cumin dressing. He then preparedpoached prawns with crispy bacon-breaded plantain with an African smokedshrimp mayo. I was impressed with Boateng’s culinary dexterity. Read on for Castro Boateng’s creative and modern recipes.

SHITO POACHED PRAWNS Plantain & Bacon with Shito Mayo



SPICED CURED ALBACORE TUNACarrot, Jicama & Orange Salad with Cumin dressing

SPICED CURED ALBACORETUNA Carrot, Jicama & Orange Salad with Cumin dressing Serves 8 people

1/2 tbsp ground cinnamon2 tbsp ground turmeric1 tbsp ground black pepper1 1/2 tsp ground cardamom1 1/2 tsp ground cloves1 tsp cayenne pepper3 tbsp vegetable oil2 cloves garlic (chopped)1 tbsp fresh ginger (chopped)1/2 bunch cilantro1 lb albacore Tuna2 cups sugar1 cup salt

Mix all spices together into a mixing bowl.Using a sauté pan over low heat, sauté garlic and ginger for

1/2 minute, add mixed spices and cook over low heat for 4minutes. If the paste is too thick add a few tablespoons of oiland continue to cook for few minutes. Add a few tablespoon ofwater and thin down to a paste. Allow to cool, then add chopped cilantro. You will only need

half the recipe to cure the fish.Mix sugar and salt together for the curing mixtureRub the tuna with half the paste, reserve the remaining paste

for later use. Sprinkle half the salt & sugar mixture in a shallow deep dish

big enough to hold the fish. Place fish on top of the salt & sugarmixture, pack the remaining salt mixture on top of the fish.Cover with plastic wrap and leave in fridge for 24 hours. The next day wash the fish under cold running water for a

few minutes to remove as much of the rub as possible, usingdamp paper towel.(optional: you can sear tuna or serve it as is.)

Salad1 carrot (peeled, thinly sliced & julienned)1/4 Jicama (peeled, thinly sliced & Julienned)1/4 bunch cilantro 2 oranges (peeled & segments removed) 1 tbsp cumin powder1/2 cup olive oil2 tbsp white vinegar salt & pepper to taste

Thinly slice carrots & jicama using a mandolin, julienne bothvegetables, add cilantro.Peel & remove segments by cutting in between the membrane

of the orange, add the segments to the salad, reserve the juicefor the vinaigrette. Roast cumin powder in 2 tbsp of oil overlow heat. Keep stirring for 4 minutes to bring out the sweetnessof the spice. Once cooled, combine the orange juice withvinegar, salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Serve tuna with salad and drizzle with vinaigrette



CASTRO’S BARSNACKSCrispy Cassava, Plantain chips, LotusRoot, Taro Root & Spiced Cashew Nuts with Avocado & Tomato SalsaServes 8 people

1 medium cassava 2 green plantains1 medium lotus Root1 small Taro Root1 cup cashew nuts8 cups canola oil Smoked Paprika to tasteSalt & pepper to tastecayenne to taste 2 tbsp honey1/2 tsp cinnamon powder1/4 tsp nutmegCayenne pepper to taste

Place a large sauce pan with oil overmedium high heat. Bring the oil to325F. Pre-heat oven to 350FUse a peeler to peel the outer layer of

the cassava, lotus root and taro root.Use a small sharp knife to peel theplantain as you would peel an unripebanana.Using a mandoline, slice each

vegetable paper thin (mind yourfingers). Fry the vegetables a few at atime, then place on paper towel. Seasoncassava and with paprika, seasonplantain with salt & pepper, season taroroot with cayenne, season lotus rootwith salt & pepper. Set aside to dry.Toss cashew nuts with honey, s/p,

cinnamon and fresh nutmeg, place on abaking tray on parchment paper. Roastin the oven for 10 minutes. Set aside.

Tomato Salsa2 ripe tomatoes (diced)1/4 red onion (diced)3 tbsp olive oilsplash of white balsamic2 tbsp chopped parsley Salt & pepper to taste

Finally dice tomatoes & red onion,combine with the remaining colourfulingredients. Check the seasoning andallow to sit for an hour.

Avocado salsa2 ripe avocado (diced)1 large lemon (juice & zest)1/4 red onions (diced)3 tbsp olive oil2 tbsp chopped cilantro Salt & pepper to taste

Cut avocado in half, remove the pit.Roughly dice the avocado, add thelemon zest and juice. Add the diced onions, olive oil,

cilantro and season with s/p. Check theseasoning.Serve the chips, nuts & salsa with a

glass of wine or your favorite beer.

CASTRO’S BAR SNACKSCrispy Cassava, Plantain chips, Lotus Root, Taro Root& Spiced Cashew Nuts with Avocado & Tomato Salsa

CHEF CASTRO BOATENG

Chef Boateng’s colourful pantry

Castro Boateng’s Guide to Root Vegetables

PlantainThere are three stages of ripeness. When plantain is green it’s very starchy– use as a boiled potato that can be mashed. In some Caribbean countriesthey’ll fry the mashed plantain as cakes. When it’s really green I like to slicethem really thin and make chips.As plantain ripens the starch starts to convert to sugar and they become a

bit sweeter. I cook them as a canapé – I bread then with bacon. A nicecombinationAs it ripens even more and the plantain becomes darker almost like at the

stage where you would throw a banana out. In Ghana we don’t eat toomany sweets but we toss very ripe plantain slices with a little cinnamon,nutmeg and fry them up. With a dusting of sugar and a side of ice cream itmakes an excellent dessert. You could also make a mean Bananas Foster.

CassavaIt reminds me of salsify – rough brown on the outside and creamy on theinside. In Fiji and West Africa they boil it and use it as a mash potato. I liketo slice it really thin (like the plantain) and make chips. A dusting of smokedpaprika works great with cassava.

Taro Root (not pictured)Taro Root has lots of starch so again we slice it really thin and fry them tomake chips.

Lotus RootProbably one of the nicest looking root vegetables with beautiful holes thatgo all the way through it. Same thing - peel it and slice it thinly for chips.

CashewsFor bar snacks it’s always nice to have some nuts. I toss cashews withcinnamon, nutmeg, a bit of cayenne pepper, toss them in honey and thenslowly roast them. My mom back home, what she would do to increase thecrunchiness, is first boil them in hot water. When you boil them it opens upthe pores and more flavour can get into the cashews.


SHITOPOACHEDPRAWNS Plantain &Bacon with Shito Mayo


FRESH SQUEEZED WATERMELON AND CITRUS WITH CUERVO

GOLD TEQUILA

Available until September 1st

Perfec tly placedin the

South Okanagan

www.tinhorn.com

Perfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

SHITO POACHED PRAWNS Plantain & Bacon with Shito MayoServes 8 people

Shito (a traditional Ghanaian spice paste that’s comparable to jerk seasoning)3 chilli peppers (scotch bonnet or habanera) 1 large onion2 tbsp of tomato paste 3 tbsp ginger1 cup of dried ground smoked shrimp, or dried ground smoked herrings, 2 cups vegetable oil Salt & pepper to taste

Using a bar blender. Puree chilli peppers, onions, tomato paste & ginger in 11/2 cup ofoil. Pour the mixture into a saucepan, add ground shrimp, season with salt/pepper, addthe remaining oil. Place on the stove on low heat, stirring it constantly to prevent itfrom burning. Cook for 2 hour or until the mixture turns dark brown. Set aside tocool, use what you need for this recipe and save the rest in a covered, clean containerfor about 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

16 prawns (peeled & deveined)1/2 cup shito marinade 3 tbsp chopped cilantro Salt & pepper to taste

Bring salted water to boil. Lower the heat to medium, then poach prawns in water for2 minutes. Remove the prawns from the water, toss the poached prawns in themarinade, set aside to cool. season with cilantro, salt and pepper.

2 ripe plantains10 slices bacon 1 egg yolk1/4 cup flour2 tbsp shito1/4 cup mayoSalt & pepper

Pre-heat oven to 350F . Place bacon on a tray lined with parchment paper, cook baconuntil crispy. Cool then roughly chop, keep to aside.Peel the plantain by using a sharp small knife. Cut plantain to small rounds (about

8 pieces each plantain.)Start a breading station by placing the cut plantain in flour, then egg wash, then

bacon. Repeat with remaining plantain.Bake the plantain in the oven for 6-8 minutes.Fold the shito into the mayo. Serve the plantain with mayo & poached prawns

Castro BoatengExecutive ChefVictoria, BC

Email: [email protected]: 250.588.9398www.castroboateng.com

Cloves, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon,nutmeg, turmeric, cayenne

Castro’s Spice Box


36

LOCAL KITCHEN

EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2014

Text, recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES

When hunks of beef meet smoke and heat,the end result is going to be joyouslyirresistible. Consider turning the classickebab into a flamin’ fiesta. Cue the fire (trygrilling with wood vs. charcoal) for spicysirloin kebabs skewered with limes for aflame-kissed bite. De-skewer, and then roll‘em up slathered with tomatillo salsa and yourfavourite taco fixings. Grab a beer. Life isgood.

Flamin’

Tacos!

red cabbageslaw addscrunchto themeal

relaxsip acerveza

tomatillosalsa - diyor buy a jar

grilled limes to lift the flavour

give the beef aflavour wallop bymarinatingovernight in garlic, cilantro,chili and cumin

Recipe on the next page



SpeckledBlueberry &

Lime SlicesRecipe on the next page



Shana and Gavin Miller go together like wine and cheese. In fact, that's what theyproduce. The perfect pair make perfect pairings. Nuanced, sustainable, hand-tended,well loved, unique and often charmingly quirky. These adjectives can be interchangedas descriptors of the artisans and also as descriptors of the beautiful products of theircrafts. The sustainably estate grown and hand-tended Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet

Sauvignon, Zweigelt, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay are some of thegrape varietals that Winemaker Gavin works with in his blends, reserves, and singlevarietal wines. Among Cheese Maker Shana's washed-rind, Brie, and blue cheeses areher Upper Bench Gold done in a few styles, U&Brie, Okanagan Sun2, Grey Baby andKing Cole. The cheeses are handmade from 100% pasteurized Canadian cow’s milkfrom D Dutchmen Dairy in Sicamous, B.C. These wine friendly cheeses aren't by-chance matches they are made-in-heaven for

Upper Bench Wines. Shana has considerately designed the cheeses with Gavin's winesin mind, making for a full spectrum culinary experience at their tasting room andmoreover, for you to take home. Wine clubs are increasing in popularity as Okanagan wines are gaining a higher

profile. Vintages are selling out, and people want to go deeper in to their understand-ing and awareness of our region. Upper Bench has geniously expanded on this ideawith their Curds & Corks program - a Wine Club program that ships a completeexperience - the perfect pairing of the latest vintages released and packaged up withShana's special edition cheeses crafted with specific wines and vintages in mind. Youcan also simply call their Wine Club shipments, "a party in a box". So plan to invitefriends over, because that's effectively what happens when you open your delivery!The pair met in Penticton in 1995, fell in love, got married, had two kids, and both

started working at Poplar Grove Estate Winery in the early 2000's. He as winemakerand she as cheesemaker. The rest is deliciously palatable history. Shana developed herlove for cheesemaking at Poplar Grove under original cheesemaker, Sandra Chalmer’sguidance and continued there until 2006 while Gavin moved on to become wine-maker at Painted Rock for their first vintages (2007-2010). The couple's well-matchedtalents were already mingled, so when the opportunity to purchase what is now UpperBench and transform an established 7-acre estate vineyard they jumped on it. Gavin, his assistant winemaker Josh Edwards, and the cellar team are intrinsically

connected to the vineyard, preferring hands on time all the way from bud break,pruning and harvesting, and through to crush then in to the cellar. This ensuresultimate control that results in the quality wine that ends in your glass. The meticulous environs in the cheese factory at Upper Bench are well kept by Shana

and her assistant cheese maker Lisa Fitzgerald. Shana is thrilled to share her passionfor cheese with someone who matches in her ardour to create the perfect cheese. The ingredients for this perfect pairing are simple: Love, time, quality, and good

people. The artistry is in the many ways all this goodness is highlighted atUpper Bench Estate Winery and Creamery.

Visit them at: 170 Upper Bench Road South, Penticton, BC, Canada V2A 8T1Phone +1 250 770 1733. for hours of operation visit: upperbench.ca

Perfect Pairing at Upper BenchBy Tarynn Liv Parker

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION Cont’d from the previous page

Mexican Beef andLime KebabsMade with flavourful beef top sirloin,

these tacos have chew. be sure to cut

meat into small bite-size pieces (easier

eating later) and marinate overnight for

best flavour.

Marinade

½ cup olive oil

3 to 4 Tbsp red wine vinegar

¼ cup chopped cilantro

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 Tbsp ancho chili powder

1 tsp ground cumin

½ to 1 tsp ground cayenne

1 tsp sea salt

1tsp dried oregano leaves

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Kebabs

2 lbs boneless beef sirloin, cut into

small cubes

2 limes cut into wedges

Place ingredients for marinade in a

blender. Whirl to evenly mix.

Place beef in a large bowl. Top with

marinade and toss to coat. Refrigerate,

stirring occasionally, at least 4 hours,

preferably overnight.

Thread meat onto skewers, occasion-

ally altering with lime wedges. Grill over

high heat, turning occasionally until

limes are lightly charred. Since grills

vary, estimate about 4 to 7 minutes for

medium-rare. Let rest at least 5 minutes

before serving. Remove meat and limes

from skewers. Be sure to squeeze the

grilled limes overtop beef just before

eating.

Red Cabbage SlawTart, slightly sweet and savoury, this

slaw makes a good foil for the spicy beef

kebabs. This recipe makes a lot of slaw.

Just saying.

1 head read cabbage, thinly sliced

2 cups rice vinegar

2/3 cup red wine

2 cups sugar

3 Tbsp sea salt

2 star anise

1 Tbsp black peppercorns

Olive oil

Place cabbage in a really really large

bowl. In a large wide saucepan, stir

vinegar with wine, sugar, salt, star anise

and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then

simmer, uncovered, until liquid has

reduced by half. Pour over cabbage and

generously drizzle with oil. Toss to

evenly mix. For best flavour, make 1 day

before serving. Refrigerate up to 5 days.

Speckled Blueberry &Lime SlicesBasically this is a killer pound cake, but

what makes it so moist is the mixture of

butter and cream cheese - and local

blueberries of course. Top slices with

whipped cream or thick Greek yogurt

stirred with pinches of cinnamon and

dried chilies.

11/2 cups all-purpose flour

½ tsp baking powder

½ tsp sea salt

½ 8-oz block cream cheese, at room

temperature

½ cup butter, softened

11/2 cups granulated sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature

½ tsp each vanilla and almond

extracts

1 lime, grated peel

11/2 cups blueberries

Line a loaf pan with parchment paper

and preheat oven to 325F.

In a bowl, whisk flour with baking

powder and salt.

In a separate bowl, using an electric

mixer beat cream cheese with butter

until evenly mixed. Beat in sugar until

fluffy, 3 to 4 min. Beat in eggs, one at a

time. Scrape down side of bowl between

additions. Beat in vanilla and almond

extracts.

Add flour and lime peel. On low

speed, beat just until almost mixed. Add

berries. Using a spatula, gently fold in to

completely mix.

Scrape batter into loaf pan and

smooth top. Bake in center of oven until

loaf is golden and a cake tester inserted

into center comes out clean, about 1

hour. Let cool for 10 min, then turn loaf

out onto a cooling rack and cool.



NORTH ARM KNIVESA new Vancouver-area knife manufacturer creatingkitchen and outdoor knives using the best materials. Ourknives are designed to be beautiful, highly functional andcompetitively priced. Visit our website for our full storyand online store."[email protected]

THE MINT Stop in for a casual bite at street level and experience ourcozy Lunch restaurant, or join us downstairs for dinner,drinks and our unique take on South Asian cuisine.1414 Douglas St., Victoria, BC(250) 386-6468themintvictoria.com

FERNWOOD ROAD CAFEA fun, relaxed and welcoming place to hang out, enjoythe waterfront view and soak in the North Salt SpringIsland vibe. Oh yeah, and have a pretty darn goodcoffee as well.325 Fernwood Rd.Salt Spring Island, BC, V8K 1C3250-931-2233www.fernwoodcafe.com

THE LOCAL LISTEAT’s where to find it guide

RESTAURANTS VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET

EAT Magazine is available thanks to the support of our advertisers. Please support them whenever you can

THECHOCOLATEPROJECT

WHISK KITCHEN STOREWhisk carries a full array of Fiesta ware. Drop down and seeour great selection of kitchenware and come see our beautifulcollection of linens and Julia-inspired gadget wall.Victoria Public Market at the Hudson778 433 9184www.facebook.com/whiskvictoriapublicmarket

SALT SPRING ISLAND

KNIVES DOWNTOWN DUNCAN

HUDSON’S ON FIRST Fine dining in a beautifully restored heritage home. Localingredients, classic techniques and modern presentationare just a few reasons Chef Dan Hudson is creating a buzz.Celebrate Lunch, Brunch and Dinner. 163 First St. Duncan250-597-0066www.hudsonsonfirst.ca

WHISK KITCHEN STOREWhisk carries a full array of Fiesta ware. Drop down andsee our great selection of kitchenware and come see ourbeautiful collection of linens and Julia-inspired gadgetwall.Victoria Public Market at the Hudson778.433.9184www.facebook.com/whiskvictoriapublicmarket

PRESERVATION FOODS CHOCOLATEPROJECTCanada's finest selection of artisanal bean-to-barchocolate. Taste and explore over 180 bars from the topchocolate makers on Earth with local chef David Minceyas your guide.Victoria Public Market at the [email protected] Friday & Saturday from 11 to 5



Rhône Rage

With a treasure trove of intriguing grape varieties, France’s Rhône Valley hascharmed palates with seductive, hard-to-resist wines. This region was thrust into thespotlight in the late 1980s by prominent wine critic Robert Parker with his profusepraise for Guigal’s Côte-Rôties and lyrical waxings on the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Winemakers from around the globe have also fallen in love with the wines, dis-seminating the grapes responsible for them to regions near and far. Thanks to thesechampioning efforts, red varieties like Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre as well aswhites Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne show up on wine labels from around theworld. Located in the southeast of France, between Vienne and Avignon, the Rhône Valley

covers a large area. Varying climatic conditions and soils result in different grapesshining in each corner, necessitating the division between the north and the south.Syrah is the star in the north and the most famous of the Rhône varieties. The best

examples hail from vines grown on very steep, stony slopes. Tending these vineyardsis back-breaking work and many were abandoned before a revival of the area in the1980s. Concealed by the appellation names of Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, Saint-Joseph,Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage, Syrah has a long-standing reputation for fine winein the northern Rhône Valley. Here you find a unique expression of this grape withdistinctive flavours and aromas of white pepper, bacon fat, violets and red plums. Highacidity, firm tannins and savoury qualities make these wines shine better at the tablethan on their own. Gamey red meat is a classic pairing whether it’s venison, rabbit orquail.The appellations of Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage produce the most complex, age-

worthy wines. They are also accompanied by a hefty price tag ($60+). Intensely floral,Côte-Rôtie is described as the more feminine of the two. It is also associated with along-standing tradition of blending Syrah with a splash of Viognier, which impartsexotic perfume notes. Australian winemakers in particular have adopted this practice,often citing the blend (Shiraz/Viognier) right on the label. Clonakilla from Canberrais Australia’s answer to Côte-Rôtie. Expensive but worth every penny! Denser and morepowerful, Hermitage is considered more masculine than Côte-Rôtie. For a New Worldcounterpart, look no further than Penfolds’ Grange. Created with Hermitage as theinspiration, it features Shiraz, the Aussie name for the Syrah grape. With its dark plum,leather and sweet berry notes, Grange reflects the warm climate of Australia.Deceptively approachable in its youth, it too can age for decades. We’ve had thechance to try vintages back to Michelle’s birth year (you guess) and wow do they getbetter with time! While Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage require time in the cellar and adelicious piece of meat to truly shine, most of the New World versions tend to befruitier, friendlier on their own and approachable early in their life.For less expensive versions of Syrah, explore the northern Rhône appellations of

Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. While they may not have the complexity,concentration or longevity of Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, many offer a similar, uniqueand distinct expression. In the New World, Australia, Washington and California alloffer great examples of Syrah/Shiraz. If you want to go local, B.C. Syrah continues toimprove and Nichol Vineyard in Naramata is a long-standing favourite. Not to be over-looked, Chile provides an excellent source of well-priced Syrah, especially fromproducers like Matetic, Koyle and Falernia.Though less common, northern Rhône whites have created their own sensation.

Côte-Rôtie’s neighbouring appellation of Condrieu showcases Viognier exclusively.This blonde bombshell of a grape produces luscious heady wines exuding peach,apricot and blossoms. Beware, these rare, cult-status wines are not cheap prospects.While it’s almost impossible to cite a true equivalent in the New World, countries likeAustralia and Chile excel at turning out affordable and tasty Viognier. Try Yalumbafrom the former and Cono Sur and Anakena from the latter. Often blended together,the Marsanne and Roussanne grapes are responsible for the whites made in the

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may be inlimited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.

TERROIR By Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris

This diverse wine area has inspired a range of lush,fruity and fragrant New World wines.


appellations of Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage. Quantities of these rich,fragrant gems are limited. Curious about Marsanne? Tahbilk in Australia claims to havethe oldest ungrafted Marsanne vines and crafts an affordable, age-worthy example.Moving south, the Rhône Valley opens up with expansive vineyards on flatter, sun-

baked terrain. If single varietals take precedent in the north, blends are the norm in thesouth. Lush, voluptuous and full of alluring raspberry, strawberry and garrigue (driedherbs) notes, reds are dominated by Grenache. On its own, Grenache is soft and notparticularly age-worthy. Syrah and Mourvèdre are common partners giving the colourand structure that Grenache lacks. Spicy and high in alcohol, southern Rhône wines arefound at all price points. Usually medium in weight and fairly simple, wines from thegeneric Côtes-du-Rhône appellation are inexpensive and can represent great value. Thedarling of the southern Rhône is the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, known fordelivering the fullest, richest and most concentrated wines of the area. Be prepared tospend $50 or more for a decent bottle. Saint-Cosme, Beaucastel, Le Vieux Télégrapheand Vieux Donjon are all highly reliable names. For a slightly more affordable alterna-tive, seek out wines from the lesser-known appellations of Gigondas and Vacqueyas.Domaine Santa-Duc never disappoints.And what is the New World equivalent of southern Rhône blends, you ask? Australia

wins again for appropriating the happy marriage of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Inclassic Aussie fashion, they simplified the name, selling it under the catchy GSMmoniker. Wine drinkers have lapped it up, often without realizing the connection withthe Rhône. While wines from the southern Rhône may be more savoury and earthier,the Aussie adaptations tend to be denser and more fruit- driven, laden with spice, black-berries, chocolate and leather. In California, a group known as the Rhône Rangers beganchampioning these grapes in a concerted effort to offer consumers an alternative toubiquitous Californian Cab. Bob Lindquist from Qupé and Randall Graham from BonnyDoon were at the forefront of this movement, reviving old plantings of Grenache andMourvèdre and encouraging growers to plant Syrah. Today, numerous Californiawineries are crafting wines along the Rhône model, full of ripe flavours from the intensesunshine.Summer is the time for flings. If you haven’t already fallen in love with the Rhône

grapes, indulge your hedonism. The wines range from exotic and intriguing to generous,round and voluptuous. How can you resist? There is plenty to keep you sated over thelong leisurely days and well into the balmy evenings. will be rolling off your tongue.Salud!

Tasting NotesWHITECono Sur, Viognier, Chile, $11-13 (SKU# 566836)Voluptuous, fresh and bursting with apricot and peach aromas, this wine over-delivers for the price. Theperfect summer house wine.D’Arenberg, ‘The Hermit Crab’ Viognier Marsanne, McLaren Vale, Australia $20-23 (SKU#892729)Aromatic with marzipan, fruit salad and lemon zest notes. A crowd pleaser and the ideal choice for asummer potluck.2010 Tahbilk Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes Central Victoria, Australia $20-23 (SKU# 559716)Vibrant and light with explosive notes of lemon curd, hay, lanolin and mineral. Did you say oysters with lime? 2011 Chapoutier, ‘Chante Alouette’ Hermitage Blanc AOC, France, $76-81 (SKU# 444281)(100% Marsanne) Rich with a mouthful of toast, nuts and orange zest notes that burst on the finish. Whatlength! Truly outstanding and a dream with fresh crab.

RED2011 Delas, Saint-Esprit, Côtes-du-Rhône AOC, France, $20-23 (SKU# 915470)Generous pepper, herb and wild floral notes. A serious Côtes-du-Rhône that gives plenty of pleasure forthe money. Barbecue chicken, veal or pork? All of the above.2011 Château La Courançonne, ‘Cuvée Gratitude’ Côtes du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu AOC,France $24-27 (SKU#840801)Grenache-based with a healthy dose of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Expect some structure and a slightly wilderearthy expression of Côtes-du-Rhône with grilled herbs, black raspberry, olives and licorice notes. Helloherb-crusted pork roast.2010 Delas Frères, ‘Les Launes’ Crozes-Hermitage AOC, France $25-28 (SKU# 174664) Classic Northern Rhône Syrah offering violets, white pepper and wild fruit. Savoury and balanced withlingering crunchy black fruit. Enjoy with anything meaty from the grill. 2010 Tar & Roses, Shiraz, Heathcote, Australia $25-28 (SKU #29660)Think mouth-filling and dense but also intriguingly complex and fresh. Plum and blueberry meet mint, licoriceand flowers. Flattering velvety tannins. Try with chicken teriyaki or ribs.2010 Matetic, ‘Corralillo’ Syrah, San Antonio, Chile $30-34*Red plum and an intriguing meatiness with layers of concentrated fruit and a hint of chocolate.


TERROIR By Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris

E

[ ]communicate. educate. inspire.

WATCH VANCOUVER ISLAND’S HOTTEST CHEFS COMPETE

IN A HILARIOUS FUNDRAISER FOR FARMLAND CONSERVATION!

GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY AT CHEFSURVIVALCHALLENGE.COM

TICKETS $40 - FAMILIES $100

Chef Survival Challenge VIiextremeMadrona Farm 07.Sept.2014O.u.r. ecovillage shawnigan 05.oct.2014

INCLUDES

MUSIC, KIDS TENTBBQ

MUSIC, KIDS TENTFEASTINCLUDES BBQ

, CULINARY, ZIPLINING! SUNDA

FEAST, ZIPLINING! SUNDA, ZIPLINING! SUNDA

, CULINARYFEAST

, CULINARY ARTS

Y NOON-5PMY NOON-5PMARTS PERFORMANCE,

PERFORMANCE,Y NOON-5PMY NOON-5PMPERFORMANCE,

PERFORMANCE,

MUSIC, KIDS TENT

MUSIC, KIDS TENT

, ZIPLINING! SUNDAMUSIC, KIDS TENT

, ZIPLINING! SUNDA, ZIPLINING! SUNDA

, ZIPLINING! SUNDAY NOON-5PM

Y NOON-5PMY NOON-5PM

PROCEEDS T

ARMLAND CONSERVO FPROCEEDS T

TION THROUGH THE BIG DREAM FAARMLAND CONSERV

TION THROUGH THE BIG DREAM F

TION THROUGH THE BIG DREAM F

ARM FUND!TION THROUGH THE BIG DREAM F

ARM FUND!

A,

TE

SY

GR

EG

AS

P

[AlarisDesign]e.ate. educatommunicc e. inspir

OM

AR

ISD

ES

IGN

.C A

LD

ES

IGN

:T

ES

Y G

RE

G A

SP

OU

R (

C)

CO

CK

; (

L) I

ST

OS

:T

PH

OA

HA

M G

R (

R)

A.A

.O

M;

.COT

AP

HO

AS

P

Watch Vancouver Island’s hottest chefs demonstrate how far they will go to protectthe farms that feed us! Support the Chef Survival Challenge! in Victoria onSeptember 7 at Madrona Farm and in Shawnigan at OUR Ecovillage on October 5,during the last weekend of the Savour Cowichan Festival “We think that this will be agreat closing event to the wonderful nine day celebration of Cowichan food and drink.We are looking forward to involving the great energy and enthusiasm of the talentedWarm Land chefs and pairing with the fabulous local wine and cider.”What can you expect? 5 Hours of great food, great company and a really good time.

Cheer on top chefs as they complete the obstacle course in pursuit of their selectingredients, then watch them prepare gourmet plates auctioned to the hungriest andmost generous of patrons. Meanwhile a gourmet BBQ is prepared for everyone whoattends to leave with full bellies. As you soak in the ambience, enjoy a glass of localwine, cider or beer. Try the zipline, or mingle to meet your next great love. There areevents and activities for children, a stage filled with music and the rare opportunity toenjoy it all on-farm. For $40/ticket or $100/family this is probably the most affordable foodie event going.

Mark your calendars! Tickets and more info at www.chefsurvivalchallenge.com

Take a stand for local food! With our Province’s recent dismantling ofthe Agricultural Land Reserve WE as community have to work harderto safeguard what's left of our farmland.



SOMMELIER’S CHALLENGE By Treve Ring

Cassoulet - from Carcassonne, in the south(classic, with white beans, duck legs, pork shoulder, mildpork sausages & pancetta with garlic, celery, carrots,tomato, onion, thyme)

BM. The wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon region aresome of the best value out there and this makes pairing theregion’s traditional Cassoulet a simple choice. Theappellations of Minervois and Corbieres, with their rustic yetjuicy character, would be great and most at under $20. Thesewines are predominantly Carignan with Syrah, Grenacheand Mourvedre playing supporting roles. Syrah, inparticular, shines here; its deep, wild, animal charactercombined with the region’s classic notes of garrigue (rose-mary, thyme and lavender), would complement the meaty,

savoury elements of this dish beautifully. If your mind iscloser to home check out some of the really interesting Syrahcoming out of the Okanagan!

TD. In Carcassonne at the foot of the Pyrenees along theCanal du Midi this rib sticking cuisine is matched withCabardés A.O.C. (1999) where the vines and climates of thecooler Atlantic South West meet the warmth of theMediterranean South. Soils of clay and limestone bearMerlot and Cabernet(s) as much as Syrah and Grenache ontheir preferred ground. In addition, all the other Bordeauxvarietals AND the Languedoc ones (minus Mourvèdre) areemployed. "Bord'Oc" ? or "Languedeaux" ? Your call but Cabardés tastesof it's unique mix. A perfect blend of warmth and structureto wash down this all time classic dish.

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. Since we’re big cycling fans here atEAT, she decided to base this edition’s pairings on le Tour de France with two dishes from regions where the cyclists will be racing this July.

T H I S M O N T H ’ S E X P E R T S

What to drink with that!

Brent Muller (BM)

Wine Director, Vic Pub Co.What started out as a summer job with the Liquor ControlBoard of Ontario has evolved into a fascination with wineand a dedication to the profession. With 6+ years retailexperience, French Wine Scholar accreditation and hisWine & Spirits Education Trust Diploma in progress, Brentis always happy to chat modestly with guests aboutanything wine, spirits or beer. Ever expanding his skill set,you can now find him plying his trade in Victoria as WineDirector for the Vic Pub Company.

Tyler Dawson (TD)

Buyer, Manager, Liberty Wine Merchants

West VancouverTyler is well known for his unique approach to wineappreciation and education; summing up his "Fun Source,Serious Supply" motto as a surprise and delightpractitioner. Tyler is the youngest grandson of George C.Reifel (a pioneer in local and international beveragemarkets). With 25+ years of experience in fine wine andretail operations, hospitality beverage management, andeducator to both consumers and trade, his thirst forauthenticity, value and deliciousness in the glass, hasnever waned. He has become a specialist in trademission prospecting for new experiences to oenotain hiscustomers and the B.C. marketplace, and he is the Ty inthe “Ty the Wine Guy” brand.

www.wickinn.comtel 1.800.333.4604

Meals are like the punctuation marks of a great trip. They give shape to the narrative of your

adventure. We encourage you to explore Tofino and then come visit us at the Wickaninnish

Inn to enjoy fresh baked pastries in the morning, a lovingly prepared picnic lunch, or a

dinner at The Pointe Restaurant that will put an exclamation point on your time here.

@TasteWickInnBC The Pointe Restaurant 250.725.3106

LEAVE ROOM FOR THE WICK

Grilled line-caughtMackerel - over smoked beets with arugulaand lemon from Le Touquet Paris-Plage, in the north

BM. So many possibilities! My instinct tells me oakedChardonnay from Bourgogne would be a great place to start.Something like young, vibrant Mâcon-Villages or Pouilly-Fuissé. Here, golden apple and delicate citrus flavours willmingle with the freshness of the lemon while great acidity,good texture and solid barrel influence will play off the fattymackerel and smoked beets that carry through. And theaffordability you can find in the Mâconnais compared withits neighbours to the north simply can’t be beat! In another

direction, a barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc from Californiacould be fun too. The real dark horse for me though wouldbe a delicious Pinot Noir from Alsace. You don’t see themvery often but if you do, don’t hesitate! Great ripe berry fruit,classic Pinot earthiness, and then fresh acidity make this areally interesting proposition.

TD. Vieux Champagne. The drink. Just a stage away...Glorious, funky, toasty, yeasty, caramelized, slightly deflated,fully mature fizz with a nervous center of acidity stillbuzzing. Cut and balance to slice through the oily richnessand match the zing of a lemon squeeze plus the desirabledecrepitude only bottled aged Champagne can bring to arich full flavoured fish with grill marks.


Dore Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Extra Dry NV Italy $15.00-17.00While Prosecco may well be “the darling of the bubble biz” the first sip of thisdelightful little brut from the south of Italy will get you thinking. Light, soft andsubtly fruity, with green apple and pear flavours. Clean and slightly off-dry with a nicetight bead. Very good value.

Joie Pinot Blanc 2013 Okanagan Valley $23.00-25.00While other wines dazzle with power and oak, Joie Pinot Blanc is never overblown. Nobutter, no butterscotch. The 2013 is delicate, with a youthful freshness and a hint ofripe apple on the nose. There is an intensity to the wine but it is not heavy orponderous, it is fresh and clean with ripe grapefruit, citrus flavours and verdant,mouth-watering acidity that excites the palate. The balance is impeccable.

Pentage Viognier 2013 British Columbia $26.00-28.00This is not a big over the top Viognier with huge alcohol and power to match. It isrelatively delicate compared to many, with vibrant apricot and pineapple aromas, lushconcentrated fruit flavours and a slightly oily texture that develops as the wine opensup.

Clos du Soleil Pinot Blanc 2013 Similkameen Valley $21.00-23.00The fruit for this delicious white is sourced from Middle Bench Vineyard in Keremeos.It is forward and generous with very pure fruit: peach, pear and nectarine. Fruit thatyou might stop and purchase at the farm gate while passing through on your way tosomewhere else. The nose is ethereal and the palate completes the job, dancingbetween ripe fruit and racy acidity. This is the ideal aperitif wine, cool and refreshing,a joy to dink.

Sandhill Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Okanagan Valley $16.00-18.00This tasty, dry Sauvignon Blanc from Sandhill Estate Vineyard delivers the goods withgooseberry and fresh mown grass notes on the nose, simple fresh fruit flavours andcrisp acidity that gives it length and vigor.

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier 2012 California $25.00-27.00This Chenin Blanc (80%), Viognier (20%) blend is superb! Honeydew, peach, pear, thenose is absolutely incredible. Crisp and clean with rich, tropical fruit flavours, a richcore of zingy acidity and a long slightly off-dry finish.

Portada Winemaker’s Selection 2011 Portugal $14.00-16.00Yeow, this is one heck of a wine for the money! Deeply coloured with an intense noseof red fruit, herbs and dusty earth. Medium-bodied but mouth filling with rustic fruitflavours and loads of character that persists through the long rich finish

Ca’ Montebello Oltrpo Pavese Barbera 2011 Italy $16.00-18.00Barbera is usually a rough country wine that in the wrong hands will take the enameloff your teeth and do irreparable damage to your digestive tract. Because of its lowtannins and tart acidity Barbera can also produce some of the most food friendly winesin the galaxy. Deeply coloured with red cherry and spice aromas, gobs of sweet ripefruit and just enough acidity to hold it together. Absolutely delicious.

Las Moras Opi Signature Malbec 2011 Argentina $18.00-20.00Generous and fleshy with cherry, earth and black pepper aromas jump out of the glass.Very rich and powerful with saturated berry flavours and a patina of fine-grainedtannins. Another great value from Argentina.

Las Moraz Paz Malbec 2011 Argentina $20.00-22.00There is nothing shy about this thick concentrated Malbec from the dusty slopes of theAndes. Inky black with black raspberry, smoke and vanilla aromas. Full bodied withsweet fruit flavours, plenty of grip and a long smooth finish that just keeps going.

Tormaresca Torcicoda Primitivo 2010 Italy $28.00-30.00Concentrated and powerful with heady aromas of plum, spice and earth, full-bodiedand richly textured with sweet fruit flavours, soft acidity and silky smooth tannins.

Joseph Drouhin Laforet Pinot Noir 2012 Burgundy $30.00-33.00Soft and fruity with attractive raspberry and red currant aromas, medium-bodied withsweet fruit flavours, balanced acidity and a soft silky texture.


By Larry Arnold

Choosing a wine shouldn’t be a grilling - leave that for the BBQ.Let us help you find the perfect BC wines this season.

Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable, yet not pretentious……approachable, with a hint of sass!”

ON THIS FARM THERE ARE SOME WINE CHICKS...

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.vqawineshop.ca

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhoopp

Established 1998

CHALK IT UP

In Coast Victoria Harbourside Hotel & Marina146 Kingston Street, Victoria BC V8V 1V4

Chalk it up is part of our Seafood festival event

CRAB FEST2014

HARVEST2014

F E A S T2014

PRAWN FEST2014

/bluecrabseafoodhouse/the_bluecrab

Fresh Seafood from the FishmongerExperience great tasting seafood at our annual “Chalk It Up 2014” seafood festival event. From July 1 - August 31, savour exquisite seafood creations with friends and family surrounded by breathtaking harbour views.

For the best seats in the house book online at bluecrab.ca or call 250.480.1999

S E A F O O D H O U S EH O U S E

eaf

S E A F O O D

ood fr

CHALK IT UP F

V8V 1V4oria BC ticV, eettron S146 Kingstel & Marinaotoria Harbourside HticVoast In C

ts in the house book online aor the best seaF

tions with friends and family surreacrom Jr. Ftenal evestivood food festivseafseafood f

ood at tasting seaft tasting seafood aeae grExperienc

ood freafeafood fresh SrF

halk it up is part of our S ental eval eventestivestival evd fd festivooeafeafot of our Shalk it up is parCChalk it up is par

201420142014FESTBACR V TSEVRAH A S TF E

2014STSTFEPRAWNPRA

.480250allor cca.bluecrabtts in the house book online a

ing harbour viewstaktheay brounded btions with friends and family surrquisitxour evugust 31, sauly 1 - Aom J

“Chalk It Up 2014”t our annualood a

ishmongerom the Food fr

/the_bluecr

1999..1999.480

.ing harbour viewsood e seafe seafood quisit

“Chalk It Up 2014”ishmonger

ab/the_bluecr abseafoodhouse/bluecr

Liquid Assets

E


VICTORIA: Is there any wonder July and August are food festival season? The ongoing buffet of ediblejoys nature offers us during these two months deserves to be celebrated. July starts off with a celebrationof all kinds of plant-based goodness at the Victoria Vegan Fest (#VVF2014) on Canada Day (July 1) atMarket Square. The event will include vegan food vendors, presenters and an interview series called “Thisis What a Vegan Looks Like”. (victoriaveganfest.com) On July 6th, as part of the Saanich Summer Sunfest,a Strawberry Festival will be taking place at Beaver Lake Park. (saanichsunfest.ca). At the end of themonth, the hugely popular four day festival of food and wine, Taste, launches its sixth edition, bringing backperennial favourites such as the Sustainable Seafood event with Finest at Sea on July 25, and the Swineand the Vine event on the patio of the Pacific Restaurant on July 26. (victoriataste.com). If you have visitors coming to town this summer, a fun way to introduce some of the city’s best sips to them

is with the Victoria Harbour Ferry’s Pickle Pub Crawl. Running every day until September 14th, youand a group of friends can hop on a pickle boat and tour the harbour’s best pubs. There are stops atCanoe Brewpub, the Guild, Lure Restaurant and Bar, and more. Each stop serves a complimentaryappetizer with your beverage purchase. (victoriaharbourferry.com) Word on the street is that the Vancouver sandwich shop everyone is talking about is planning to open

a Victoria location on Yates St this summer. Meat and Bread already has two locations in Vancouver, oneon Cambie and one on Pender. Victoria is only one part of the company’s expansion plan – look out forthem in Seattle this fall. (meatandbread.ca) Also on the Downtown lunch spot news list, the DelicadosDeli franchise has moved out of 799 Fort St, with the Aegean Café poised to set up shop there early thissummer, vacating its present location (731B Fort St.). (facebook.com/pages/Aegean-Cafe/). Sometimes thesubtle changes get overlooked, so if you haven’t yet visited Crust Bakery, which opened last fall in theformer Renaissance Bakery location (previously the Rhineland) on Fort, you may be surprised when youstep inside. Tom and Crystal Moore, are the husband and wife team behind the new bakery and took amonth this past winter to renovate the space, giving it a fresh, modern look. Traditional pastries sit besidehouse specialties such as Tom’s take on the Cronut, and gluten free treats as well. (facebook.com/crust-bakeryonfort) A new Indian restaurant, Masala Bites opened at 1015 Fort St in late spring, taking overthe space briefly occupied by Indyoga. Masala Bites “welcomes you to experience the art of healthy liv-ing through their spice mixtures”. (masalabites.ca) Another restaurant transformation downtown is happening on the corner of Government and Fisgard.

The Nando’s franchise closed this past spring and Varsha Sips + Nosh is gearing up for a summer open-ing. Follow their progress on facebook (facebook.com/varshasipsandnosh). Esquimalt now has a new Japanese restaurant. Kyubey Sushi is on Head St, next to Blue Nile

Restaurant, serving sashimi, tempura and sushi, and featuring a tatami room that can seat 8-12 people.(facebook.com/pages/Esquimalt-Kyubey-Sushi)Do you want to grow more of your own food this summer? The Victoria Compost Education Centre

has a line-up of workshops that can help you achieve that goal. Topics range from Basic Composting toBackyard Chickens, Natural Beekeeping and Canning. Workshops are offered every Saturday. Children’sworkshops are also offered. (www.compost.bc.ca) If you aren’t quite ready for growing your own produce,you can still support local growers at summer farmers’ markets, and now at the Grocer at the Hudson,the Victoria Public Market’s new permanent green grocer, as well. (facebook.com/TheGrocerAtTheHudsonVPM) —REBECCA BAUGNIET

COWICHAN VALLEY | UP ISLAND: As I write this, summer is still a promise away yet I'm alreadyexcited about the amazing ways to eat and drink our way through the sunshine this season. Here's a rundown of the upcoming must-attend festivals and links to check before you go.July 5 & 6 starts things off with Cowichan Valley Grape Escape - get on your bike and take a tour of

the regions' farms, cidery, and wineries while raising donations for MS. Along the way re-hydrate withbeverages from Merridale Cider followed by a gourmet dinner courtesy of Shawnigan Lake School headchef James McClellan. (cowichanvalleygrapeescape.com)July 5 at Deerholme Farm don't miss 'A Carnivores Dream' local food dinner with lots of meat! I'm

thinking BBQ, sunshine and a beautiful setting -what could be better? Or on August 3rd try 'Dinner in aJapanese Vegetable Garden' - (deerholme.com for details).July 6 and every Friday night after take a scenic trip to Salt Spring Island Winery and enjoy live music

on their beautiful patio in the garden while sipping the wonderful wines produced on site. ([email protected])On the 11th, make your way up Mt. Washington in Comox for their annual Tapped Beer Festival fea-

turing tastings from Lighthouse, Big Rock & Central City breweries followed by a pig roast in the court-yard of Raven Lodge. (mountwashington.ca for details).If you haven't yet had your fill of roast pig, Rocky Creek Winery in Cowichan hosts their 5th annual

on July 12 in the vineyard accompanied by a live jazz trio, and desserts catered by Farm's Gate Food.

(rockycreekwinery.ca)August brings us the 16th annual Alpine Wine & Food Festival up Mt. Washington in Comox on the

8th & 9th. Tastings from local wineries on the Friday, and a delicious wine-pared dinner on the Saturdayall accompanied by live music and stunning views. (mountwashington.ca)If that doesn't tickle your fancy how about Campbell Rivers' Salmon Festival Seafood Cook-Off at

Nuns Creek Park to feature the Professional Oyster Competition, seafood cooking demonstrations, andall manner of seafood tastings over the 9th, 10th &11th. (crsalmonfestival.com).Also on August 9 is the Galliano Island Beer & Wine Festival in Lions Park. Unlimited tastings from

the winemakers, merchants and beer makers along with fresh made finger foods and a complementaryRiedel crystal wine glass to take home. (galianowinefestival.com)For something a little different, August 24 brings the Cittaslow White Dinner to Rocky Creek Winery,

Cowichan. This elegant dinner in the vineyard is chic picnic style! Each attendee brings a dish to share, andcomes dressed fully in white as they do in France for that famous elegant pop up dinner party; Diner enBlanc. (email: [email protected])And finally, offered every Friday from July to mid September enjoy a wine and chocolate bike tour

through the Comox Valley. Meander along the ocean trails enjoying wine tastings, organic blueberries anddecadent chocolate treats. The ride finishes at chef Ronald St Pierre's restaurant Locals beside the OldHouse, where you can relax on the patio with a well earned refreshment. (islandjoyrides.com)This summer will fly by before you know it so make the most of it - I dare you to attend only one!

—KIRSTEN TYLER

TOFINO: The high season is in full swing as Tofino and Ucluelet welcome thousands of visitors from aroundthe world. This year there are new restaurants and a specialty food producer to add to the alreadyimpressive culinary scene.

Zoe’s Bakery and Café at 250 Main St. in Ucluelet opened its doors May 1st. Owner/operator andpastry chef Zoe Jordan has put in her time in west coast kitchens, including the Pointe Restaurant at theWickaninnish Inn and Fetch at Black Rock Resort before starting her own venture. In addition to sweetand savoury baked goods look for breakfast frittatas and quiches, and daily soups and sandwich specials,along with Drumroaster Coffee from Cobble Hill. The buzz is good, and it’s no wonder consideringdaily specials like this one: a Two Rivers roasted pork loin sandwich with house made “Lucky Lager”mustard, chimmichuri and apple carrot slaw. Sold! (facebook.com/zoesbakeryandcafe). A new Tofino venture hopes to supply local restaurants and foodies alike. Picnic Charcuterie, located

on Industrial Way (behind Red Can Gourmet), is the brainchild of new Tofino resident Tina Windsor.Specializing in local products, including Vancouver Island Salt and meats from Tannadice Farms in theComox Valley, various cured, smoked and cooked meats are available as well as homemade preserves.Tina has a background in grass-based livestock husbandry, and artisan cheese and charcuterieproduction. She practices traditional techniques, and strives to use only the minimum required preservation.Tina suggests filling your growler at Tofino Brewing Company (conveniently across the road) to ac-company your picnic. (picniccharcuterie.com).

Long Beach Lodge Resort recently opened Tofino’s first beachside bistro, the Sandbar Bistro in frontof their property on Cox Bay. The outdoor patio seats 40 plus, and caters to the beach crowd with TofinoBrewing Company beer on tap, wine, highballs and a selected menu. This could be a busy sunset spot!(longbeachlodgeresort.com)

The Ice House Oyster Bar was set to open soon at press time. Located at 250 Grice Rd on the waterin a former fish plant, this new venture is by resident Alan Beesley. Look for more details in an upcomingissue. Summer also means the Tofino Public Market is happening every Saturday from 10am-2pm on the

Village Green. Artisans, live music and good food are part of the mix. Enjoy Sarah’s tamales, JulieLomenda’s 600 Degrees Bakery bread, cinnamon buns and more, old-fashioned popcorn, as well ascupcakes from Tofino Cake Studio, coffee from Foggy Bean Coffee Company in Ucluelet, and hotand cold teas from Tofino Tea Bar. On long weekends, look for the markets on Sundays as well. For moreinformation, look for Tofino Public Market on Facebook. There are many new food options as well as old favourites to enjoy this season in Tofino. —JEN DART

OKANAGAN: There’s something magical about summer in the Okanagan. It’s a sensory extravaganzaof fragrance, colour, and taste – from farmers’ markets to vineyard dining and everything between. Fruitstands open shuttered doors and present their local bounty, luring drivers off the beaten path and onto backroads resplendent with apricots and cherries. Find your niche, and tuck in.KELOWNA: The newest tasting room on the block isn’t a new winery at all: Sandhill’s urban loungeopened in late May. Expanded from the quaint Calona Wines tasting room on Richter Avenue, the new

The Buzz WHO’S DOING WHAT IN VICTORIA, VANCOUVER, THE OKANAGAN, TOFINO, THE COWICHAN & NANAIMO




contemporary space gives a nod to grower history and offers daily tours, educational sessions, andspecial events. And adding to the winery dining scene is Blu Saffon Bistro at Volcanic Hills EstateWinery. Chef Colin Rayner is also proprietor, and feeds hungry wine lovers from May to Septemberfor lunch and dinner.PENTICTON: One of the region’s better (and newest) meals on wheels is Roxy’s Diner Food Truck,by chef Vincent Denis and wife/partner Christine Leman. Chef Vincent hails from Big White’s SanteBar & Grill, and in this newest playground chef is exploring his twist on the modern diner. With menustaples like the Winner Winner Chicken-n-Waffle Dinner Sandwich, South Philly-kanagan Cheesesteak,and Bringing Home the Bacon Dog (bacon wrapped, deep fried gourmet hotdog), chef’s menu is fun,diverse, and oh-so-tasty. Regularly found in the parking lot at Canadian Tire or select summer festivalsand events. OLIVER, OSOYOOS & THE SIMILKAMEEN: In Oliver, it’s food truck season with Hammer’s Houseof Hog (south) and Jampee’s Thai Food (north) – plus a new pop-up Mexican joint on the outskirtsof town, which nobody can remember the name of but everyone is raving over. Look for the lineups andhave cash in hand. Down in Osoyoos, former food truck Beach Bum Lunch Box has permanent digsin the Nk’Mip Corner Convenience Store east of town, offering some of the best smoked meat this sideof Montreal. Over in the Similkameen, The Grist Mill welcomes chef Natasha Schooten to providecountry culinary delights in a rural setting, complete with newly built outdoor stone oven.EVENTS: Okanagan foodistas gather in white on July 10th for the Diner En Blanc – in typical fashion,location to be disclosed on the day of. The 5th Annual Similkameen BBQ King takes over the historicGrist Mill on Saturday July 12, celebrating local food and wine with nine chefs competing for thecoveted title of BBQ King. In Kaleden, fans of Joy Road Catering should get in on an Evening ofEffervescence at Linden Gardens July 18 for a Gatsby-themed, bubble-centric feast. OkanaganFalls Wineries go rustic with their 3rd Annual Party In The Park on July 11, and new winery Liquiditywelcomes Clusterfest – an artist festival series July 26 to August 3 with outdoor theatre, in the vineyard.The Summer Okanagan Wine Festival heads for the hills with their Mile High Wine and MusicFestival August 8 through 10 at Silver Star, featuring wine tasting and live music. Dress is casual, andcomfortable footwear is recommended – outdoor dancing can wreak havoc on heels. Don’t say wedidn’t warn you. —JEANNETTE MONTGOMERY

VANCOUVER: Glowbal Group owner Emad Yacoub once joked that his wife, Shannon Bosa, hadthreatened to divorce him if he opened yet one more restaurant. That was probably about three restosago, and as far as I know they’re still blissfully bonded. The wraps came off Emad’s latest in early May,a new Trattoria at reborn Park Royal South.There’s a non-too subtle clue as to how Yacoub is steering his empire on Glowbal’s website, whose

landing page for its Italian brand proclaims: “Every neighbourhood needs a Trattoria.” Park Royal’sBOX-designed ‘Tratt’ sparkles with the now familiar Glowbal pizzazz. Next up: a Tratt for Burnaby. Inthe wings—perhaps—a still to be finalised anchor in the downtown, view-corridor devouring TelusGarden behemoth. And rumours persist about a Toronto outpost—a nod to the CEO’s industry beginnings. If second floor locations are challenging (and they are) second locations can be a blessing or a curse.

Chalk one up, then, for the early success of Kitsilano’s Yak & Yeti Bistro (in the former Flying Tigerspot), the more edgy and updated approach taken by the owners of the West End’s Gurkha HimalayanKitchen. The arrival of the sibling location says a lot for co-owner and chef Shiva Marahatta, whomakes a point of difference between Nepalese and Indian cuisine. In the rush to get to your table at Hawksworth, it’s easy to overlook the sexy, clean lines of the

restaurant’s holding bar. Not so much, though, since the unveiling of head bartender Cooper Tardivel’sspecialty barrel aged bottle cocktail program that yields an increasingly worthy parade of ingeniousconcoctions. Tucked into a comfy booth one recent night a group sampled his Hendricks Gin, presentedfor two, in antique-styled bottle. The Hendricks’ travel companions, Dry Curaçoa, Dubonnet and FrenetBranca combined for a seductive combination that still allowed the gin to shine through. Tardivel’sprogram is ongoing, with a different base spirit highlighted every week.Drop by Les Amis du Fromage’s East Van outpost on a weekend and the chances are you’ll find a

lot more than the usual superb selection of cheeses and specialty meats. Newest lure is Les Amis, pop-up patisserie program, in which local pastry chefs are invited to set up a small showcase. Recentappearances have included The Salty Cookie Company, and The Lemon Square, as well as thesweetly tongue in cheek creations of Petit Four Pastries. LADF owner Joe Chaput says response hasbeen very positive—so much so that he’ll continue the idea as soon as the next group can be assembled.Hot on the heels of yet another major win, in the Gelato World Tour North America, Vancouver gelato

guru James Coleridge is busy gearing up for a couple of major expansions. Sometime this summer he’llpull the wraps off an expansive emporium on the False Creek north promenade (just east of Provence).Look for the familiar gelato bar but also an expanded menu of pizza Napoletana, desserts, coffee,Italian breakfast and more! Then comes a prime location in Grosvenor’s Ambleside revitalization in2016. No doubt you’ll be able score at both a taste of his world-beating salted Pecan with Montmorencytart cherries & Tahitian vanilla. —TIM PAWSEY



ONLINE CONTENT

1624 Government St. // Victoria Public Market silkroadtea.com

SilkRoadVictoria @silkroadtea

Dive into mouthwatering coastal berries & our own locally grown black tea leaves. Serve iced with a dash of local honey and of course you can always add a splash of Victoria Gin.

PINKIES UP! BERRY VICTORIA

With our new limited edition tea...

On eatmagazine.ca you can find fresh content brought to you by our editorsand contributors. Browse our topics covering Edibles, Folks, Places andLibations. It’s all free and accesible by computer, tablet and smartphone.

eatmagazine.caFood & Drink Daily on the Web

INTERESTING LOCALS —Holly BrookeA Talk About Food with OlympicRower Will DeanThere is something almost supernaturalabout Olympic athletes. The sheerdetermination, diligence, and dedicationit takes to go for the gold are phenome-nal. More than the rigorous trainingsessions (seven days a week, three times aday), it requires eating like a championtoo. eatmagazine.ca/interview-with-will-dean

FIRST LOOK —Sophie MacKenzieKid Sister, Not Just PopsiclesAnymore.I had the chance to meet up with thegood people of Kid Sister on what felt likethe first day of summer peeking throughthe April showers. Located among thechurches, government buildings, andapartments of North Park, Kid Sister is abit of a hidden gem. eatmagazine.ca/kid-sister

TOP 5 —Adam CantorSecrets of the CityLoy Sing Co. (554 Fisgard) is a smallbutcher shop in the heart of Chinatown,which incidentally also serves barbecuepork, duck, and chicken. The cheap andconsistently delicious items areadvertised on a series of handwrittenplacards, taped up here and there behindthe counter.eatmagazine.ca/5-secrets-city

DRINK THIS—Treve RingRosé Revolution – The Ultimate BCRosé Guide: 40 Wines ReviewedPerhaps better Rosé Evolution? At leasthere in BC, where we have collectivelyembraced the joy of dry, refreshing rosésafter far too long in the throes of sweet,saccharine pink wine. Rosé wine,especially from the heartland ofProvence, has long been a key sommeliergo-to. eatmagazine.ca/rose-revolution-the-ultimate-bc-rose-guide-40-wines-reviewed



Culinary Arts: Baking & Pastry Arts

viu.ca/culinary

Researching your options? Come spend a day in our kitchen. Contact: [email protected]

8-06-3320

Skills Canada winners Thalia Austin (left) and Toshi Akama (right) with VIU Culinary Arts instructor Joerg Gabler (centre).

Food, wine and culture � eld school in Italy. For more information visit viu.ca/educationabroadFollow the blog at sites.viu.ca/italy2014

INTERESTING LOCALS —Sol KaufmanHow to Feed a Game Designer withKANO/APPSNo Doritos, no Twizzlers, no MountainDew. What kind of game studio is this? In many ways, social gaming startupKANO/APPS is a poster child forVictoria’s burgeoning technologyindustry. Created by a quartet ofUniversity of Victoria grads, thecompany has grown to…eatmagazine.ca/feed-game-designer-kanoapps

FIRST LOOK—Holly BrookeThe Green Grocer in the VictoriaPublic MarketIt’s safe to say that the Victoria PublicMarket has achieved its goal: to house ayear-round marketplace where variousgrassroots businesses provide local andethically sourced foods. With thewelcome addition of The Grocer…eatmagazine.ca/first-look-green-grocer

MUST-HAVE —Kaitlyn RosenburgCinnamon Buns from PatisserieDaniel At first, I don’t notice the breadboardscrammed into spare pockets of space atPatisserie Daniel. Hundreds of bread-boards. One entire wall groans under theweight of boards big and small, invarying states of quality. Breadboardsspill over onto the floor…eatmagazine.ca/thoughts-patisserie-daniel

RECIPE —Jennifer DanterSkillet ChickenThis is my Sunday Dinner fall back. Apile of meaty chicken legs sauced up withgooey business (aka “sauce”) pluspotatoes, onions and tomatoes mixed infor a one-pot, well rounded meal. Giveme a baguette, a bottle of red and a stackof wet wipes. Makes enough for dinnerfor two plus leftovers for lunch the nextday.eatmagazine.ca/skillet-sticky-chicken

CULTURE—Jeannette MontgomeryBye Bye Barrel: the closing of anOkanagan cooperageIn our celebrity-oriented climate, manyindustries have one person or role in thespotlight. With music it’s a band orsinger playing centre stage with thesound engineer in the background; at awinery, the winemaker often gets moreairtime than the viticulturist…eatmagazine.ca/bye-bye-barrel-closing-okanagan-cooperage

Plus… much much more…including: How (Some) Chefs Help Drive Changefor Good—Tim Pawsey (eatmagazine.ca/how-some-chefs-help-drive-change-for-good). InVancouver, Fraser St. is on the Up and Up.— Danika McDowell(eatmagazine.ca/vancouver-fraser-st)


Cookware | Bakeware | Tableware | Accessories

Muffet & Louisa#109 – 2506 Beacon Ave250-656-0011

A Step Above – Quality FoodsComox, Courtenay, Powell River, and Qualicum Beachwww.qualityfoods.com

Penna & Co.#130 – 777 Royal Oak DriveVictoria250-727-2110

Le Creuset Stainless Steel CookwareLe Creuset Stainless Steel Cookware


Eat magazine july | august 2014

Documents

Transcript of Eat magazine july | august 2014