Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters

instructables

Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...

by WUVIE

For a quick, fun and very easy garden project, grab abag of concrete, your imagination, and follow me!

Concrete planters and garden ornamentation are awonderful addition to the outdoor setting aroundone's home. Often, such decor comes with a highprice, enormous size and incredible weight which isnot easily transported. The solution? Make your own.

While you would likely not fare well to dive right intolarge scale concrete landscaping, you can dabble a bitin a smaller project to begin with. Then, when you ndhow addicting this craft is, take it easy on me for

suggesting it. So let's get started.

Curious about the intro bowl? See step ve for details.Curious about the frog? He is a real. Hyla versicolorhave the ability to change colors.

Found a typo? Please, by all means, let me know. :-) Iappreciate it!

Is your reply positive and constructive? I'd love to hear it.Please refrain from being nasty or negative. That is not thepurpose of this site.

1. A local tree frog makes himself at home. He appears to 'blend right in'. 2. Yes, this is an actual frog. A Gray Tree Frog (Hyla versicolor) which hasthe ability to change colors to adapt to its environment.

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Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...:

http://www.instructables.com

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-make-concrete-bowls-and-planters/

http://www.instructables.com/member/WUVIE/

Step 1: Gather Your Materials...


What you will need:

CONCRETE - http://www.quikrete.com/index.asp

QUIKRETE® Concrete Mix (No. 1101) is the original4000 psi average compressive strength blend ofPortland cement, sand, and gravel or stone. Just addwater. Use for any general concrete work. (Verbatim asposted on the Quikrete site) Resist the urge to useheavy duty concrete, as it is very chunky. For thosefamiliar with mixing their own concrete instead ofusing a mix, by all means do so. We use Quikretebecause it is available in our area and has proven tobe of quality for the items I've made.

Though many home improvement stores carry ready-to-mix concrete in 80 pound bags, it is also availablein other sizes, depending on your preference as wellas ability to lug it around. Be sure to allow storeemployees to help load the larger bags into your car.There are many types of ready-to-mix available,choose accordingly. I prefer Quikrete (mainly becauseit is readily available in our area) and Quikrete VinylConcrete Patcher, but these products are meresuggestions. Nothing is cast in stone. Yet.

COLORING - Not a necessary item at all, thoughcoloring concrete is quite fun, and easy! Check outliquid cement colors near the concrete section of yourlocal hardware store. A 10 oz. bottle will color quite abit of concrete. If you want to maintain colorconsistency in your projects, consider making up largebottles of colored water for your project, and be sureto keep a lid on the container of mixed water. Shakewell before using. Don't get carried away by dumpingin more colorant than recommended, or yourconcrete will not set properly.

MOLDS - An endless supply of molds, containers andother ideas are available everywhere. Scour yard sales,thrift stores and other thrifty places for interestingshapes and sizes. Don't stick to bowls, use yourimagination. You could even make your own. Try notto choose anything with great detail, as you may bedisappointed. For ner detail, use Vinyl Patch mix,which has far less bumps and bits of rock, or use agood cement and sand recipe.

Just about any container can be utilized as a mold forconcrete, provided you are able to get the nishedproduct out of it. Bowls, cups, milk cartons, jugs, theideas are bountiful. At present, I've found muchdelight in selecting unique glass containers fromsecond hand stores and yard sales. If the nished itemcannot be dropped or dumped out of the mold, afterthe concrete has fully set up, simply (and gently) tapthe glass to crack or break it from your concretecreation, then rinse o the glass and be sure to take itto the recycling center.

Plastic, stainless steel and other materials releasefrom the cured concrete easily when non-stick spray isapplied to the mold prior to adding concrete.

NON-STICK COOKING SPRAY - Yes, release agents aresold speci cally for the purpose of mold release whenusing concrete, but quite frankly, a cheap can of non-stick cooking spray works just ne. Use it generouslyto ensure your project will slide out of the mold. I'veused both generic and Pam brand cooking sprayswith success. Thanks to the many wonderfulInstructable folks who have also suggested usingother agents such as WD40 and perhaps even motoroil.

WATER - Necessary to mix with the concrete. Not toohot, not too cold, not too much, not too little. Perhapsmy 'luck' has been the love of making mud pies as achild. Think Goldilocks, and mix well.

RUBBER GLOVES - Nothing fancy needed, but youshould wear them. Be safe, not sorry. Concretepoisoning is no fun, and it's not pretty. I know thisfrom personal experience.

EMERGENCY MOLDS - So you've mixed a pristinebatch of concrete, you've sprayed the mold and you'rein the process of lling it. Whoops, not enoughconcrete! Quick, dump it out and reach for anothermold. Keep one close by for this very reason, anddon't forget to spray it rst. It is better to make a bitmore than to end up a bit short.

A POKER - You'll need something about thecircumference of a pencil to poke out air bubbles.

A LARGE SPOON - Or any similar item to mix the


Step 2: Mix Concrete, Fill Your Mold...

concrete. My favorite? A skinny garden trowel. Keepyour eyes o items in the utensil drawer of the kitchenunless you no longer wish to use it on food.

BUCKETS, MEASURING CUPS, MISCELLANEOUS 'TOOLSOF THE TRADE' - Obtain inexpensive tools and reservethem for concrete projects alone, as they will becometarnished with concrete. Don't be wasteful. Clean andre-use your tools.

1. A cheap plastic chip and dip server makes for an excellent tree ring for ayoung seedling you want to protect from a weed trimmer. 2. A plethora of lighting fixtures can often be found in second hand stores fora song. If you can't sing, they will typically charge less than a dollar for yournewfound treasure. 3. Stainless steel bowls work well!4. Bowls. There are millions of choices. Mix and match. Combine.Experiment. And donate blood. 5. Like how I put a box around the price tag sticker? Me, too! Cheap fruit andveggie platters make adorable stepping stones, or you can leave out thecenter section to make a ring of petals to surround a plant for decoration orplant protection.

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Step 3: Allow Proper Concrete Curing Time...

Spray your mold with cooking oil and set aside. Mixthe concrete so it is about the consistency of peanutbutter, not a slushee. It should hold a bit of formwhen shaped into a ball, but not so wet that itslumps, and not so dry that you can't make a ballwithout a great deal of e ort. Not too wet, not too dry.

Pack the mold, tapping and poking the concretedown into any crevices in the mold. Once lled, levelo the top with something at like a ruler. If you can,carefully bounce the project on a rm surface that iscovered with something cushy. You don't want tobreak the mold, especially if you've chosen a glassmold.

Set on a level surface out of direct sun. Wait twentyfour hours before you even think of touching it.

1. Quikrete is aname brand, and nota requirement forthis project.

Concrete creation is generally not advised in hightemperatures. Work in the shade if you simply cannotresist a Summer project.

CONSIDER A WATER BATH - Concrete is not as easy asmixing, setting and forgetting. It requires a period oftime to harden, or 'cure'. Unfortunately, concrete isnotorious for setting before the ingredients have hada chance to bond as securely as they could have. Theresult of a rushed concrete job is cracking, weakeneddurability and a crumbled project. I allow my projectsto remain in the mold for a minimum of 24 hours,longer for thicker items, then carefully set the iteminto a deep bath of water for a minimum of one week.Okay, ne, I admit it, I stu them into unoccupiedpond plant containers and sometimes in with the Koi(not advised for everyone, though our tanks areHUGE). Often I submerge the entire project to avoidany damage. DON'T rush it, don't be impatient. Thereward to patience is well worth it. A week. I mean it!

Many people also merely cover their projects with wetburlap (thanks, Cyoung13) or plastic wrap and such.Unfortunately I've never used such methods, so Icannot speak for them, but they are equallywonderful methods of preventing your project fromdrying out too quickly.

For those who simply haven't the time or the meansto ensure your project stays moist, you might consideran acrylic concrete cure & seal, available in most homeimprovement centers in liquid form. Brush, roll orspray this formula onto freshly set (not freshlypoured) concrete. Look for the deep yellow jug withgreen and black labeling in the concrete section. Thisproduct can be used on recent projects, or evenexisting concrete.

http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/ConcreteSealer.asp

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Step 4: Sanding and Sealing Your Ware...

Step 5: Use Your Imagination...BUBBLE BOWLS!

1. Time keeps on ticking, ticking, ticking... into the future.

Now that your project is nished, you love it, you sitback and adore it, you cock your head sideways andwonder what to do next.

It's beautiful, but have you considered making it evenmore so? Grab a sanding block, your project and let'shead outdoors!

On a breez y day, set your project up outdoors in anarea where you will get a good dose of air. You don'twant to inhale any kind of dust, you know. With asanding block, rub your project vigorously in a smallarea. Now feel the other side. What a di erence! Goahead, sand

the entire thing. After it is completely sanded, rinse ito , dust it o , whatever ensures you have removedany residual dust.

Head to your local home improvement store for a jugof this, or a similar item, depending on what yourstore carries:

http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/ConcreteSealer.asp

Using an appropriately sized brush, roller, or sprayer,apply concrete cure and seal, allow to dry, and enjoyeven more!

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You are not limited by much when choosing molds foryour concrete garden treasure. The bowl in the introwas created using what is typically known as a Bubbleor Cell bowl. As it is di cult to explain, pictures havebeen provided. One of the pictures features acopyright message. Not to worry, it is mine. Love you,Dave's Garden!

The glass bowl in the rst image is shown upsidedown. Typically, it is lled with arti cial owers, thenturned upside down to allow the bowl to be used,while still being able to see the owers inside theglass bubble. Look closely and you will see theindented bubble in the middle. The only opening tothis 'bubble' is the one you see at the top. This bubble

can be lled. I hope I've made sense.

* Updated to include additional images. So many ofyou did not understand what a Bubble Bowl was, andI understand. It is hard to imagine without a picture. :-)

When lled with concrete, allowed to dry, then ippedupside down, the glass is carefully broken from theconcrete, leaving a heavy and very durable bowl.Don't forget to recycle the broken glass.

I hope you have enjoyed this Instructable as much as Ihave enjoyed making it.

1. A glass dish typically known as a 'Bubble Bowl'. 1. The bowl itself is a bit of a bubble. What you arelooking at is a dish, but the underside is empty.

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1. Ah, now I see! Once the bowl is turned upside down, it becomes yetanother bowl, in a sense. This section is filled with concrete, then laterturned back upside the other way.

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1. Spray the insides well with cooking spray. Cheap brands are fine. Iused butter flavor, but don't repeat that.

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Step 6: Additional Idea #1...

1. Once the bowl is filled with concrete, clean up your act. Seriously. Youwill be so much more proud of your project if you keep things neat andtidy.

1. Three bowls, which will be air dried for a day, then plunged into waterfor a week for proper curing.

I'll post just a few samples to provide a starting pointfor your creativity.

*Also see step 9*

Fill a bowl (plastic is reusable) half or three quartersfull of concrete.Spray a bowling ball with cooking oil, hold it by theholes and insert into the bowl of concrete.Push hard, twisting the ball as you press down, but

don't let the concrete over owthe bowl. Allow to sit for a day or so, then twist theball out of the bowl. The harderyou push, the deeper your bowl will be. Neat! Don'tforget to cure it properly.

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1. A bowling ball in a bowl of concrete created this great deep well. Theedges are rough, but that only adds an interesting touch to an otherwisebeautifully smooth interior.

Fill your choice of container with concrete, squish aglass votive holder into the concrete.Allow the glass to remain in the concrete even when itdries. Try not to be too sloppy, andyou won't have to clean up the glass afterward. Let itcure, add a candle, and enjoy. Youcan remove the original container or allow it to simplybe a heavy item with concrete intact.

In this example, a ower-shaped votive holder waspressed into a bowl, then later broken out,leaving a nice shape with a well for a votive candle.

As this bowl has only today come out of a curingwater bath, I will allow it to dry, then grinddown the rough edges.

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1. A glass votive candle holder was used to form the floral impression in theconcrete.

This bowl is made using the same type of glass bubblebowl as in the introductionof this Instructable, but it is much more shallow andof larger circumference. It is heavy, whichmakes for an excellent pet food or water bowl after ithas been properly sealed...don't want Fidoto become sick from anything harmful that may leak

from the concrete. Thanks for the reminder,Quester55.

No tipping! Best source for these bubble bowls -yard sales and second hand stores.

1. Another wonderful glass Bubble bowl was used for this creation.

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Step 10: More on the Bowling Ball Bowl From Step 5...and a Link to a Great Instructable!

Special thanks to Design Sponge and Design Gal forthe idea of using a glass xture. My wheels began toturn!

http://saltlakedesignergal.blogspot.com/2009/07/concrete-garden-balls.html

A very large glass lighting globe was using to makethis 30+ pound concrete sphere.Please note, the glass was removed entirely, I justwanted to share a photo showing boththe concrete and the glass, which if you look carefully,you can see it is thinner glass insome areas of the globe. A fun project I enjoyed

doing.

I simply lled a large glass globe with concrete, left italone for a week, then submergedit in water for another week. Wearing safety glasses,the lighting globe was then removedby gently smacking it with a hammer. What am I goingto do with it? I haven't yet though thatfar, but for now, it simply remains in our gardenwalkway for amusement. It isn't likely someonewill run o with it very far. :-)

1. See how thick the glass is here...2. Compared to the thickness of the glass in this area.

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http://saltlakedesignergal.blogspot.com/2009/07/concrete-garden-balls.html

Step 11: Libbie Wanted in on the Action...

Several of you expressed interest in the bowling ballbowl. Say that three times fast!

In a nutshell, you simply choose a bowl that is largerin circumference than your bowling ball.Fill the bowl half to three quarters full of concrete,submerge the ball in and give it a squish.Allow it to dry.

Remove the ball, remove the bowl and there you haveit. :-)

Want more? You should de nitely check outCreativeman's Bowling Ball project!

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Bowling-Ball-Planter/

Great job, Creativeman!

Libbie decided she should keep an eye on the concrete ball as it cured.Just in case something went awry, you know.


https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Bowling-Ball-Planter/

Great information, thank you for sharing. You can also make a lighter mixture called Hypertufa. Therecipe for it has been around for years. People can Google for the info. Also if you want to make athinner walled vessel you can add fiberglass "shavings" to the mix which will give the thinnercement more strength.

Based on the finished concrete surfaces you show, and your words about mixing water, I must sayyou're working rather dry. That's fine if you want the holey texture, but normal usage is to addenough water to get a soupy mix like chili, pourable but not runny. I have cast into glass globesand my concrete comes out really shiny! That won't last outdoors, but it's remarkable. Also,dunking a hardened casting still in its mold into water for a week is overkill. Water only enters viathe exposed surface. And very little is needed if you mixed it as I suggest. Much more important forstrength is sloshing and bouncing the mold, when half-full and then 3/4 full and all the way, ifpossible. See www.archicast.com for serious fun with concrete. Shown are our really big spheresguarding the FedEx Forum Plaza in Memphis.

This is an older post but I see folks are still commenting. It's a great idea but everyone shouldcheck their local recycling policies. In most cases, you're not allowed to put broken glass in yourrecycling bin for safety reasons. You may be able to drop it off at a local facility, but the curbsidebins are handled by sanitation workers who may not be prepared for shards of glass.

While you DEFINATELY shouldn't just dump it in recycling or trash just loosey goosey, I've alwaysused a paper grocery bag, put the broken glass in there, marked it "BROKEN GLASS" thenstapled the bag shut. Double bag it if you want to use even more caution.

Our glass recycling is limited to cleanly rinsed glass jars and bottles. I’m told other glass does notmeet the specifications needed for recycling. So don’t just “wish cycle” and assume your brokenglass will be re-purposed, likely it will become garbage and add expense to the recycler.

You know those big balls they sell in the toy/bicycle section in stores like KMart and WalMart...I'mtalking the 3 foot diameter balls that are already pumped up and are thin rubber? They are stored ina bin that has twine or netting to keep the balls corralled. Or the Yoga balls used as a Stability Ball.

That would be a great form, if it held up...for these concrete creations.

A yoga ball for sure! Great sphere ideas, keep 'em coming!

If you consider concrete is like a wetter form of pottery clay, akin to clay slip used to pour ceramicsand other moulds...you can use concrete to make forms (look it up on the internet) you can getsome really cool forms. It's actually how the pros do it with concrete castings. For instance..if youwanted to make a gargoyle or 100 gargoyles or basins with complex cool designs or 100 of them -you take the original and pour concrete around it to make half moulds and join the pieces (similarto push molds) or join the two molds and pour in the middle...shake it a lot to get air bubbles out,and let dry for a while. Then instead of breaking the glass, you just take off the mold straps andpop the two halves of the cast mold out.

For water features with fittings, just pour the concrete around the fitting. It will likely stay. If it slips,you can caulk it after the fact. I thought of inserting a chain link that is stainless steel, or weatherresistant...then you'd have a ball and chain, haha.

Concrete molds are possible and workable, but nowhere near the ease of use of polyurethanerubber molds. Concrete often has 'bugholes' and these will act as locks on the piece you pour inthem. This assumes you have used adequate form release.


http://www.archicast.com

I am very intrigued how to stiffen the huge vinyl balls enough to keep them spherical for concretecasting.

Can you use big balloons but not fill it but coat the inside with mortar mix or concrete maybeseveral times to make it sturdy but not solid so they are not so heavy?

No, I don't see it.. Big balloons? People tried weather balloons. Pressure of air is nothing like theweight of concrete. A lot of thought has gone into sandboxes, big strong crates of sand, and youhang a shaped scraper from a pendulum and scrape out the sand to leave a hemisphere void ofdamp sand. In theory you could do it with sand-mix. This could be the koi pond or it could contain aweather balloon which you fill to cast a hemisphere.

Loved your post!

Ball and chain - what a fun idea! So glad you shared, thanks!

When it comes to cleaning. What do you recommend when cleaning tools and such, if you have aprocedure of cleaning up and how you go about it. Thanks

I've owned a concrete crafts biz. Concrete (especially vinyl and quik-setting) hardens quickly onyour tools, the only way to remove those chunks is hammer and chisel. My solution: The first step Ido is ALWAYS get a gallon bucket of water handy(like a kid's play bucket). Fill it up so a tool'shandles will be immersed. As you need to switch tools, immediately drop the cement-covered toolin the bucket. No need to dry a tool before using it again.

If you're spending hours on projects or it's a hot day, concrete will dry inside the mixing container,stop playing in the mud to scrape it off with a (very stiff) wire paint scraper brush and wash withH2O as you scrape. Does not require gloves.

Remember concrete sticks hard as a rock to metal, but since I use garden trowel, huge mixingspoons, and a small spade, all for strength, the water bucket is just SO much EZ'er than the chisel.You can also use the garden hose, Scotch-brite pad or the coarsest wire Brillo pads. No soap.Have fun!!

If you wash tools in the kitchen sink as I do, please do not rinse off concrete in the 'garbo' side andlet cold water run for a minute or so to make sure all the grit is washed through the pipes.

(Pic of a local archery store owner with the custom planter I made.)

That’s beautiful!How did u make the urn I’ve been trying but can’t get it right

It's lightweight 'hypertufa', rounded off using a watered down paintbrush then lightly sanded assoon as the bowl is set hard. Doesn't have to be perfect. Good luck to u!

Years ago, I experimented with mixing large amounts of peat moss into the mix to make atombstone for my dog. I put the leftover mix into some hubcaps I had around. It worked out welland the items were relatively light. You've got some great ideas for some fun "and" useful projects.Thanks for sharing.

Does it have to be peat moss or will potting soil with peat moss work as well?

informative post thanks. You love what you do which is always a good thing.

I wondered if you'd have any ideas on a project I'm hoping to do.

I want to build a fountain with maybe a 2meter bowl at the bottom then maybe a 1m bowl and 0.5mone on top with a stand between them. I can buy these sorts of cascade fountains if I had oodles of


cash.. but as I haven't I'm thinking of how I could make one. The mould for those kind of sizes don'tcome readily to my mind..

Hello Perfo, thank you so much.

I am so sorry for the delay in my response. Sometimes I get caught up with work and life, and havelittle time left for fun like Instructables.

Have you decided what to use for a fountain, and did you make one? :-)

No , I haven't made one yet but get close to having a go when the weathers nice.. My latest plan isto dig a hole, fill it with sand. Put a plastic sheet over it and shape the bottom. slurp my concrete inthen another plastic layer on top suspended from some sort of frame and filled with water todisplace some of the concrete and give me the dish shape I want.. I haven't a clue if it would workor not...Other way would be to rig up a rotating plate that woudl rotate for 24 hours and be slightelyconical..

What a great garden project! Thank you so much for sharing.

Thank you, Marianne!

Love all your ideas and instructions. I was thinking ..you could use mosaic tiles to create a Gazingball.

I have seen and plan on making a toad Stoll using 4in curved pipe for stem and bowl for top.

I like the idea of smooching another bowl in middle to make it lighter.

Thank you

Hello Karen, thank you so much. I love those ideas!

Thanks for the tips. I am trying my hand at concrete paving stones in the backyard with all sorts ofodd issues. Reading your stuff helps!

Thank you so much! Looking forward to seeing your projects. :-)

cute little froggie! :o) :o)

informative post thanks. You love what you do which is always a good thing.

I wondered if you'd have any ideas on a project I'm hoping to do.

I want to build a fountain with maybe a 2meter bowl at the bottom then maybe a 1m bowl and 0.5mone on top with a stand between them. I can buy these sorts of cascade fountains if I had oodles ofcash.. but as I haven't I'm thinking of how I could make one. The mould for those kind of sizes don'tcome readily to my mind..

If you want to try a large diameter bowl, search high and low for exercise balls. I know them makethem in a variety of sizes for physical therapy. They might be expensive if you can't get them used.Since you plan on doing a fountain, a flat bottom for the pedestal and riser shouldn't be a problem.Then you might search out restaurant and catering supply places and see what they have for hugeacrylic or plastic salad bowls.

Ok , thanks for your comments... Though even a huge exercise ball may not be big enough.... :-)

If you have a local livestock supply/feed store, check them out. You should be able to find large,unbreakable plastic stock tanks that are mostly used for water troughs. They mostly come in ovalshapes, which could actually make an interesting, unique fountain, but Ive bought them in roundshapes as well for our alpacas, etc. Good luck! :)


Ok, good idea. I haven't one real close but I'll keep my eyes open next time I go past one...Thanks

Hi Froggy!

I agree that everything can be a container! I love making garden art with very cheap/ free materials.For example, I waited until after Halloween one year to buy a glass skull on clearance, and tookthe bottom off, filled with concrete. I was very patient in waiting a week to "unfold" by putting it in aheavy duty garbage bag and removing glass with a hammer. Then it was painted. I used a 50/50mixture of play sand and cement. I usually will put in strengthening additives if the piece is larger.

Very cool! I'm so glad you shared this, and added it to the I MADE IT section. Love the paint job,too!

Thanks!

Thank you... concrete is a media I enjoy. I have looked on eBay for cool molds and have mademany things. I like the painting part, especially. Then you can take a plain grey form and bring it tolife. Sometimes people don't even recognize it is concrete until they pick it up!

Wow! 50/50 is pretty hot. I guess being in glass for a week was a pretty good cure schedule. Lookscool.

thanks!

Thanks so much!

How do I add drainage holes for plants?

You could hot glue PVC pipe to bottom of bowel (or duck tape it but I think hot glue better). Justspray the same oil or release agent on the PVC pipe (which needs to be taller than the bowl).There is always a masonary drill bit but that is messy & takes a while.

Using the bowling ball bowl as an example, how about gluing 3 short (1/2"-1"?) lengths of dowelvertically to the bottom of your mold, put in the concrete and press your bowling ball down until youhit them. Alternatively, set the bowling ball in the mold balanced on top of your trio of dowels beforeyou pour your concrete in around the ball.

After you remove the mold and ball from the concrete item there would be a bit of concrete thatseeped in between the dowel and bowl but I imagine that could be carefully chipped out. I haven'ttried this. It's just an idea that came to mind.

You could also use stain glass and set it into the concrete. We use 2 different cements for that...avery fine one where that glass is set down onto the mold surface, mold release, then pour the finercement over that, then the heavier cement. It seems to work very well, and you get beautiful tabletops, stepping stones, and of course you could do that with this method of bowls etc...just an extraidea:) Of course, vibrate layer one, then later layer two when that is added...or just use one finecement...up to you.:) One can get sooo creative with this stuff, and I sure love your added ideas:)Will take that to the glass guild when I see them next. Cheers and thanks!

Many thanks, Tangski!

Dear Wuvie, congratulations on your work. What would you tell me if you used direct colors in theconcrete mix ?? Using various types of paints, one obtains excellent finishes and a divineappearance. How about the idea ???


Paulo, I think using colors in the concrete would be very cool. I'm not familiar with using colorants,but I do hope you'll give it a try, and let us know how yours turns out.

I had been wondering if something like this could be used like a mortar & pestle. Preferablysomething to keep outside (since it's heavy anyway) and to crush up egg shells to use in my raisedgarden beds for insect control (& here I find it :-). I think I'd use a larger bowl (like with the bowlingball) for the mortar, and a smaller globe for the pestle.

Oh, this would definitely be a neat idea. I would use it in the garden, though not for my own food. Ilove Apple's idea to use a light bulb for the pestle.


Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters

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