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    THE SABAH SOCIETYNewsletter 71 MarchApril 2003

    THE SABAH SOCIETY AGM 2003

    Fifty-two members attended The Sabah Society AGM 2003 held on22 April 2003 at Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort (STAR). The

    AGM was followed by a talk on the newly gazetted Tun Mustapha

    Marine Park by Prof. Dr Ridzwan Abdul Rahman of UMS.

    COMMITTEE MEMBERS 2003/2004

    President: Datuk Chan Chew Lun

    Vice President: Dr Heng Aik Cheng

    Hon Secretary: Puan Zahra Yaacob

    Hon Treasurer: Mr Daniel Soo

    Committee Members: Dr Ho Tze Hok

    Dr Ravi Mandalam

    Dr Richard Barrow

    Mr Albert TeoMr Wallace Welliam Tan

    Immediate Past President: Tengku Datuk (Dr) Zainal Adlin

    Hon Editor (Journal): Dr Geoffrey Davison

    Ex-officio Member: Datuk Joseph Guntavid

    SECRETARIAT NOTICES

    1. The Sabah Society newsletter is now also

    available as an e-newsletter. If you would

    prefer to receive the electronic version,

    please send an email to the secretariat.

    2. Notices on all Society events (including

    talks, trips and forums) are sent by email.

    Please supply your email address to the

    secretariat if you have not already done so.

    (Please note that all email addresses will be

    considered confidential information.)

    3. If you have already supplied your emailaddress to the secretariat, but have not been

    receiving emails from The Society, please

    telephone Grace so that the problem can be

    identified and corrected.

    NEW MEMBERS

    The President and the Committee members of The Sabah

    Society warmly welcome the following new members who

    have been endorsed by the Committee, and wish them a long,

    happy and fruitful membership.

    MARCH 2003

    Mr Alphonsus Goh

    Captain (R) George Lai

    Mr Richard Chung

    Mrs Lynda Joeman

    Mr Patrick C L Chin

    Mr Robert Tam

    Mr Ng Ten Sung

    Prof Dr Mohd Fauzi Yaacob

    Mr Frederick Liew

    Ms Tulip Noorizyze

    Datuk Yong Teck Lee

    APRIL 2003

    Ms Amy Chin Siew Mei

    Dr Premadeva Satkurunathan

    Mr Hanfi Hussin

    Ms Sharon Wong Yee Sim

    Mr Jonathan Cocking

    Mrs Arena Awang Chee

    FORTHCOMING EVENTS

    22 May 2003 Video presentation on Borneo

    The Final Safari by Martin and

    Osa Johnson

    2 June 2003 Talk on Discovering Sabah

    through Home Stay

    by Ms Joanna Kissey-Kitingan

    68 June 2003 Trip to Lankayan Island

    mid-June 2003 Talk on Current Status of the

    Medicinal Plant Resources in

    Malaysia

    by Assoc Prof Dr Kamarudin

    Mat-Salleh

    46 July 2003 Educational trip to Danum Valley

    late July 2003 Forum on Likas Bay

    Secretariat: 39-1, 1st Floor, Damai Plaza, Phase 4, Luyang, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia.Postal address: P.O. Box 10547, 88806 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia.Tel & Fax: 088-250443 e-mail: sabsoc @po.jaring.my Website: http://www.sabah.org.my/sabahsocietyAdministrative Exec utant: Ms Grace Tsang

    Ed itor: Ka y Lyons

    mailto:[email protected]://www.sabah.org.my/sabahsocietyhttp://www.sabah.org.my/sabahsocietymailto:[email protected]
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    THESABAHSOCIETYNEWSLETTER71

    THE SABAH SOCIETY

    TALKS AND FIELD TRIPS

    TALKS

    DATE TITLE VENUE

    5 March 2003 Spiders! Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Drs Peter Koomen (STAR), Kota Kinabalu

    18 March 2003 Natural Resource Use & Community in Banggi Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Dr Fadzillah Majid Cooke (STAR), Kota Kinabalu

    25 March 2003 The Leiden Natural History Museum Naturalis Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Drs Peter Koomen (STAR), Kota Kinabalu

    3 April 2003 Conservation & Sabah's Land Law: Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    The Legal Perspective (STAR), Kota Kinabalu

    Mr James Lam

    9 April 2003 A Study of Sea Bajau in Sulu Island: Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    A Comparison with Semporna Sea Bajau (STAR), Kota Kinabalu

    Mr Wilfredo M. Torres III

    16 April 2003 Tunku Abdul Rahman ParkSea Walking Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Mr Francis Liew (STAR), Kota Kinabalu

    FORUM

    DATE TITLE VENUE

    19 March 2003 Gaya StreetThe Future Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Chairman: Dr Richard Barrow (STAR), Kota Kinabalu

    FIELD TRIPS

    DATE DESTINATION NO. PARTICIPANTS

    1516 March 2003 Camping Trip to Tanjung Simpang Mengayau 39

    45 April 2003 Mantanani Island Trip 27

    1820 April 2003 Mount Kinabalu Climb 29

    Sandakan

    Sub-Committee Activities

    The Sandakan sub-committees recent activities

    for members living on the east coast included a

    talk entitled Photo Safari Sabah by well-known

    local photographer Cede Prudente on 26 April

    2003, attended by about 70 people. A small group

    also enjoyed a trip to Sepilok Laut on 1213 April

    2003.Datuk C. L. Chan presenting a certificate to Mr Adrian Lok in appreciation for

    his assistance in arranging the Societys trip to Tanjung Simpang Mengayau.

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    TALKS

    Spiders!

    Dr s Peter Koomen

    Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru ResortKota Kinabalu

    Wednesday, 5 March 2003

    Many people are afraid of spiders. They are among the

    top ten of most scary animals. They are regarded as

    the utter creepy crawlies. Are these feelings right?

    Most people with arachnophobia have hardly any knowledge of

    the subject matter of their fears. A little more interest in spiders

    reveals fascinating animals, in many ways comparable to us.

    Except for deep thinking, spiders can do almost everything

    we do. Spiders only do it in a different way, like eating by

    throwing up and slurping, digesting partly in the legs, breathing

    through the belly, defecating below the skin, and living among

    silk. To detect insect prey, spiders have eight eyes, eight nostrils

    and many hairs functioning as organs for touch, taste, and

    hearing. Seen under a scanning electron microscope they look

    very fanciful. Furthermore, spiders use an enormous diversity

    of tactics to trap insects or to take them by surprise. Looking

    open-mindedly at spiders easily results in being lost in

    amazement.

    Why do spiders need all these amazing features? Answer:

    to make more spiders. Spiders do IT too, but in an even more

    complicated way than we do. Male spiders have special mating

    organs on their mouthparts to suck up their own sperm. This has

    to be transferred to a female, an event to die for. A proposingmale spider runs the risk of being regarded as prey by his

    beloved. Fortunately male spiders know many ways to avoid

    too hasty consumption; many of their strategies seem amazingly

    human. Some males strum a love song, dance a tango, or offer

    a present. Others put the female in a hold or tie her up. You

    name it, spiders do it, and obviously with a lot of success.

    Conservation & Sabahs Land Law:

    The Legal Perspective

    Mr James Lam

    Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Kota Kinabalu

    Thursday, 3 April 2003

    The speaker started with a brief introduction to the various

    classes of land titles in SabahCountry Lease (CL),

    Town Lease (TL), Native Title (NT), Field Register (FR)

    and Provisional Lease (PL).

    He then spoke about a controversial aspect of land law in

    Sabah relating to native titles. All transactions of native land

    between natives and non-natives are null and void. Only natives

    can own native land. The definition of a native is given in

    section 2 of the Interpretation of Natives Ordinance (Sabah Cap.

    64). Included in this definition are not only those who are

    readily accepted as natives, but also any person who is

    ordinarily resident in Sabah, is a member of a people indigenous

    to Indonesia or the Sulu group of islands in the Philippines and

    has lived as a member of the native community for a continuous

    period of five years.

    The subject of land conservation was addressed in terms of

    cases in recent years where rights to seafront land have been

    taken away even though such property had been gazetted by

    previous governments as conservation areas. The speaker

    reminded the audience that gazetted areas can be degazetted by

    any later government.

    Thus societies like The Sabah Society can play animportant role in educating the public on such matters so that

    the people are well informed about affairs of the protection and

    conservation of our land and environment in the state of Sabah.

    MARCHAPRIL2003

    President of the Sabah Society, Datuk C. L. Chan, presenting a

    certificate of appreciation and a copy of thePocket Guide to the Birds

    of Borneo to Drs Peter Koomen from the Netherlands, who gave two

    very interesting talks to the society members: Spiders! and The

    Leiden Natural History Museum Naturalis.

    Vice President of The Sabah Society, Dr Heng Aik Cheng, presenting a

    certificate of appreciation to speaker Mr James Lam, lawyer and author

    of An Introduction to Sabah Land Law.

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    A Study of the Sama Dilaut in

    Sulu Island: A Comparison with

    the Semporna Bajau Laut

    Wilfredo M. Torres III

    Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru ResortKota Kinabalu

    Wednesday, 9 April 2003

    This paper touches on the way of life of the Sama dilaut of

    the Sulu Archipelago in the Philippines and briefly

    compares it with the life of the Bajau Laut in Semporna,

    Sabah, Malaysia.

    The Sama dilaut (sea-oriented Sama), or more popularly

    known in Malaysia as Bajau Laut (sea Bajau), belong to a wider

    sea-nomadic boat culture found throughout Southeast Asia.

    They are typically subsistence fishermen and aquatic foragers.

    In the Philippines, most of them reside near islands and coastal

    areas throughout Sulu, Tawi-Tawi, and Mindanao Island. Ininsular Malaysia, congeries of them can be found along the

    eastern coasts of Sabah, most especially among the various

    islands in the Semporna District. In Sulu society, the Sama

    dilaut are generally perceived to occupy a lower social standing

    compared to their more sedentary neighbours.

    The first part of the paper presented a study conducted

    earlier among the Sama dilaut of Kabuukan island in Sulu

    province, the Philippines. It described the way of life of the

    Sama dilaut from the analytical perspective of household

    adaptive strategies, gender relations, and sea tenurial status. The

    study also examined the changes occurring within Sama dilaut

    communities as families reconstitute themselves to the nature

    and demands of new technology and to the effects of

    external/global forces.

    The study in Sulu has revealed that Kabuukan island and

    the waters within its vicinity are considered as ancestral waters

    by the Sama dilaut who reside there. The Sama in this area have

    an intimate knowledge of their sea territories. And their intimate

    knowledge of their areas is inseparably linked to their

    livelihood, to the interplay of their various survival strategies,

    and to their way of life. Within this web of survival strategies,

    it was also shown that women, and their work, play a vital role

    in the survival of the Sama household.

    The paper also discussed the changes that have occurred as

    a result of the emergence of new technology like seaweedfarming. While seaweed farming presents an opportunity for the

    Sama to emancipate themselves from poverty and from

    previously held misconceptions that debilitate them as a people,

    this new technology is also a doubled-edged sword. The advent

    of seaweed farming has changed the Samas perception of their

    traditional sea spaces, and changed the labour relations within

    their community. Previous indigenous institutions that regulated

    their access and use of sea spaces are rapidly being replaced by

    new rules and regulations that suit the demands of seaweed

    farming. The new activity also promoted the emergence of

    seaweed farming-related wage labour and landlordtenant

    relationships at sea. Seaweed farmings increasing popularity in

    Sulu has also been marked by increasing resource competition

    and ethnic violence, environmental degradation, and the gradual

    displacement of the Sama dilaut by more aggressive

    neighbours.

    The final part of the paper touched on the comparison

    between the Sama dilaut of Sulu and the Bajau Laut of Sabah.

    The way of life of the Sama dilaut and the Bajau Laut is a

    product of historical forces, as well as the forces within their

    natural environment. The Sama dilaut and the Bajau Laut share

    common historical ties. From precolonial to colonial times, they

    played an important role in trade, inter-island communications,

    as well as in the formation of early maritime states in the region.

    However, their marine specialization has relegated them to the

    margins of society.

    In the Philippines, the Sama were always under the shadow

    of a more dominant group. In Sabah, however, the absence of a

    dominant group and strict law enforcement has allowed the

    Bajau to become prominent and prosperous. In the Philppines,despite the presence of formal government systems, ineffective

    law enforcement in the southern Philippines has forced the

    Sama dilaut to depend on traditional patronclient relationships

    for their livelihood and protection. As the Sama are chained to

    a relationship of clientagecharacterized by injustices and

    violencetheir general well-being has suffered. This situation,

    and other factors like war, piracy, and the displacement caused

    by seaweed farms, has forced the Sama to seek the safer fishing

    grounds of Malaysia.

    THESABAHSOCIETYNEWSLETTER71

    Hon. Treasurer of The Sabah Society, Mr Daniel Soo, presenting a

    certificate of appreciation to speaker Mr Wilfredo M. Torres III, who

    spoke about the Sama dilaut of Sulu and the Bajau Laut of Sabah.

    Francis Liew, who addressed members on seawalkingthe latest

    underwater viewing activitybeing thanked by the President of The

    Sabah Society, Datuk C. L. Chan.

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    Malaysias strict law enforcement has maintained order and

    created a conducive environment for the Sama. The country has

    successfully controlled piracy and the proliferation of firearms.

    The Sama dilaut find the Malaysian seas safer areas to fish in,

    and the markets are fair. In Malaysia, the bonds of clientage that

    have chained the Sama for so long are broken. And this has

    allowed Sama dilaut to thrive and prosper here.

    Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

    Sea Walking

    Francis Liew

    Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Kota Kinabalu

    Wednesday, 16 April 2003

    Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, which lies 38 km off Kota

    Kinabalu, is made up of five islands surrounded by coral

    reefs. The park covers a total area of 4,924 hectares, ofwhich two-thirds is sea. The five islands are Gaya, Manukan,

    Mamutik, Sapi and Sulug. The unspoilt natural environment

    and clear water teeming with fascinating marine life, plus its

    close proximity to the city, make the park a very popular

    destination with picnickers, nature lovers and divers. When the

    park was gazetted in 1974, it only covered the major part of

    Gaya and Sapi (3,638 hectares). In 1979, the government

    acquired the other three islands, which were previously

    privately owned.

    Pulau Gaya, the largest island (3,665 hectares), derives its

    name from the Bajau word gayo(big). Ridges 6001,000 feet

    high form the islands backbone. It has 16 miles of shoreline

    with beaches, mudflats, mangroves and sandstone cliffs. The

    major beach is Police Beach, a quarter-mile of fine white sand.

    The coral reefs along the entire coast are in excellent condition.

    Pulau Sapi has one of the nicest beaches in the park. Its

    clean white sand and crystal clear water plus the coral reefs

    fringing the shoreline make it ideal for swimming, snorkelling

    and diving. Day-use facilities include a jetty, picnic shelters,

    barbecue pits, picnic tables, changing rooms and toilets.

    Pulau Manukan, a 51-acre boomerang-shaped island, is the

    parks second largest island and the most developed. There is a

    trail system around the island and 20 chalets, a clubhouse,

    restaurant, souvenir and diving centres as well as recreational

    facilities such as a swimming pool, football field, tennis court.Pulau Mamutik is the smallest of the five islands. Borneo

    Divers operates a dive school on the island. Day-use facilities

    include changing rooms, toilets, picnic shelters, and barbecue.

    Pulau Sulug. This 20-acre island is the furthest from the

    city, and is relatively undeveloped. This island is popular with

    foreign visitors who prefer the quiet, wilderness atmosphere.

    Good reef patches lie on the southern end of the island.

    Changing rooms, toilets, picnic shelters and tables are provided.

    Seawalking: In 2002, the Sabah Parks wholly-owned

    subsidiary company, Sabapak Eco-Holdings Snd Bhd, and Club

    WAT, a Korean company, set up a joint-venture company,

    Borneo Seawalking Sdn Bhd to operate a new underwater

    viewing activityseawalking.

    This activity, the first of its kind in Malaysia, is based near

    Sabah Parks Base Camp Jetty on Pulau Gaya. With the aid of

    Sea Trek underwater helmet diving system, non-swimmers and

    non-divers are able to experience and explore the wonderful

    underwater world without even getting their hair wet.

    There are no oxygen tanks or complicated equipment and

    the activity is very safe and easy, with no training required. Theunderwater trail is about 1520 metres descent from the

    pontoon boat and the distance covered is about 50 metres.The

    walk takes 2030 minutes to complete. While in the water,

    seawalkers are guided by a fixed rail so that they do not step on

    the corals. Two helpers and a diver are always with the walkers

    while in the water and the diver points out interesting marine

    life throughout the duration of the walk.

    FIELD TRIPS

    Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, Kudat1516 March 2003

    by Balvinder Kaur Kler

    In true tradition of the Sabah Society, members set out for a

    special weekend to pay homage to The Tip of Borneo or

    Tanjung Simpang Mengayau.

    The first group of 14 members led by Assistant Team

    Leader Adrian Lok gathered at the Sabah Society office and left

    in a 4-wheel drive convoy by 8:30 am headed out towards Kota

    Belud. With the new road, Kota Belud is literally around the

    corner, perfect for our brief breakfast stopover. We got back

    onto the road and arrived shortly at a well signposted T-

    junction. If you turn left, you will reach Matunggong 29

    kilometres away and Kudat 70 kilometres away. Turn right and

    you will head out towards Kota Marudu. So all you do is turn

    left and follow the road and signposts. No excuses accepted for

    getting lost on the way to Kudat!

    Somewhere down this portion of the journey, you will see

    a beautiful visual of Marudu Bay on the right. Our convoy had

    the pleasure of a few more stopovers which made our journey

    all that more educational. We arrived in the sub-district of

    Matunggong where designated villages are involved in the One

    Village-One Industry initiative. We passed Kg. Gombizau

    The HoneyBee Farm and shortly after, we stopped at Kampung

    Sumangkapknown for its Gong Making and we also stoppedat Kampung Bavanggazo, where you can learn more about the

    Rungus people and their lifestyle and traditions. And most

    importantly, purchase those beautiful beads and handicraft at

    local prices!

    After yet another stopover for lunch in the township of

    Sikuati, we got back onto the main road and soon come upon the

    Blue Sign. You cant miss itfollow the arrows on the Blue

    sign and you will make your way towards either Sunjamal

    Resort or The Tip of Borneo. So, here begins the final stretch of

    our journey with no more stopovers planned. There were

    coconut plantations and small villages on either side. We are a

    convoy of five vehicles and the lead vehicle arrives at a junction

    with another Blue signpost and waits for the others to catch up.

    MARCHAPRIL2003

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    Minutes go by, no vehicles follow and so the lead vehicle turns

    to go back up the road to discover our compatriots fixing a flat

    tyre. Okay, half an hour stopover, unexpectedly! So what are the

    odds of having a second flat tyre? Perhaps it had something to

    do with our stopover theme but as we turned into that final

    stretch, yet another vehicle had a flat! Here, the benefits of

    travelling in convoy come forth and perhaps walkie-talkies need

    to be used for trips in the future as mobile phone networks were

    unavailable.

    Finally, we arrived at our destination through Kampung

    Kalampunian Laut to a secluded corner of Sabah where the

    white soft sand and the layered azure shades of the sea reach out

    to welcome you to the northern Tip of Borneo.

    As you drive up towards the highest point, the Malaysian

    flag fluttering in the wind greets you. This flagpost was set up

    in conjunction with National Day celebrations last year, which

    at State-level were held in Kudat. You stand here and take in the

    magnificent and glorious view of being at the Tip of Borneo.

    We wished there was a sign that stated Welcome! You are Now

    Standing at the Northern Tip of Borneo. To the right, you see

    the lighthouse on Pulau Kalampunian and further out on thehorizon is Pulau Balambangan. In fact, it is possible to walk

    down to the actual tip, which is made up of an interesting array

    of rock formations you learnt about in Geography lessons at

    school. Stand at the very tip and have your photo taken but be

    careful not to be swept away by the waves!

    We drove back down to set up our campsite at the

    beachfront. At this point, the second convoy arrived with Team

    Leader, Dr Heng Aik Cheng. This group consisted mainly of

    families with children (eight) and even a cute little dog! It was

    3:30 pm on a fresh, breezy, haze-free Saturday afternoon with

    the sun shining brightly. In total, 39 members of the Sabah

    Society had arrived for the weekend camping trip at Tanjung

    Simpang Mengayau.

    Tents of all shapes and sizes were set up whilst some of the

    members went swimming as others started gathering driftwood

    for the campfire. Luckily, there were no sandflies or mosquitoes

    during our visit. The District Officer of Kudat, Mr. Sebastian

    Lim had kindly arranged for Sabah Society members to use the

    toilet and shower facilities at the Police Outpost which was

    within walking distance of our campsite.

    The moon (almost full) was already out in the evening sky

    as the sun began a two-and-a-half-minute descent into the

    horizon. Some members were back at the Tip to watch the

    sunset while the rest stayed at the campsite. Many a poet has

    written about the sunset. Take our word for it, it was beautiful

    to watch the sunset, here at the Tip of Borneo. After a barbecue

    dinner, members continued to chat into the wee hours of the

    night. Tanjung Simpang Mengayau is a suitable place for

    stargazing as there is no light pollution and we could clearly see

    the constellations of Orion and the Southern Cross. In fact,

    some of our members decided to sleep out under the stars!

    Here is a wonderful opportunity to develop this site as a

    camping ground. Visitors would pay a fee for utilising the

    campsite which would have basic facilities including toilets,showers and garbage disposal but accommodation would

    remain on a bring your own tent basis. This would promote

    domestic tourism and encourage more locals to visit the Great

    Outdoors of Borneo.

    Earlybirds the next morning caught a glimpse of the new

    day dawning upon the island of Borneo. After breakfast the next

    morning, everyone started to pack up their tents and rubbish

    was taken home. Some of us went back up to the Tip for more

    photo-taking. Our camping trip to Tanjung Simpang Mengayau

    had come to an end. For most of us, this had been our first trip

    out to the Tip of Borneo and it had been worth every instant.

    THESABAHSOCIETYNEWSLETTER71

    Some of the intrepid members of The Sabah Society on the first camping trip to Sabahs latest tourist attraction, Tanjung Simpang Mengayau,

    the most northerly point of Borneo. While most favoured tents, others opted to sleep on the beach as it was a balmy night.

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    Instants

    by Jorge Lui s Borges

    If I could live again my life,In the next Ill try,

    to make more mistakes,

    I wont try to be so perfect,

    Ill be more relaxed,

    Ill be more full than I am now,

    In fact, Ill take fewer things seriously,

    Ill be less hygienic,

    Ill take more risks,

    Ill take more trips,

    Ill watch more sunsets,

    Ill climb more mountains,

    Ill swim more rivers,

    Ill go to more places Ive never been,Ill eat more ice creams and less (lime) beans,

    Ill have more real problems

    and less imaginary ones,

    I was one of those people who live

    prudent and prolific lives

    each minute of his life,

    Of course that I had moments of joy but,

    if I could go back Ill try to have only good moments,

    If you dont know thats what life is made of,

    Dont lose the now!

    I was one of those who never goes anywhere

    without a thermometer,without a hot-water bottle,

    and without an umbrella and without a parachute,

    If I could live again I will travel light,

    If I could live again Ill try to work bare feet

    at the beginning of spring till

    the end of autumn,

    Ill ride more carts,

    Ill watch more sunrises and play with more children,

    If I have the life to live but now I am 85,

    and I know that I am dying ...

    Reference: The Garden of Jorge Louis Borges

    http://www.sccs.swarthmore.edu/users/00/pwillen1/lit/index3.htm

    Mantanani Island56 April 2003

    by Aw Chak Teng

    It was a crispy fresh morning as I arrived at Likas Square topick up Kay, and off to The Peak to pick up Christine

    yes, the redoubtable Kiwi who missed Sabah so much that

    she flew back (actually Kiwis dont fly, which made this even

    more remarkable) at short noticeyep, thats one tough old bird

    indeed. We caught up with the good ol times and expected

    some new exciting times in the days journey ahead ...

    As expected, we arrived first at Kota Belud (because I was

    the trip leader, and also the trip writer, which is not necessarily

    the best combination). As soon as we left our still-warm

    empty cups at the local stall, we spotted Makii-san (Hajime) and

    his fine family trooping towards us (Yorika, Miyoko, Azusa,

    Takashi, and little Midori). From the other end marched Ogami-

    san (Ken), Yoko, Momoka, and little Haruto. Soon, all arrived,except the very important little red carBalsthe one bearing

    our gracious hostess for the next two daysGillian (Gilly)

    Elliot. We were waiting on the other side of the grandstand.

    So, off we set again. We took a wrong turning, but saw the

    magnificent countryside of Kota Belud basking in the morning

    light. (We were on holiday, werent we?) Finally, we arrived at

    the jetty. After an hour of bumpy boat ride, I woke up in time to

    vaguely make out an island resembling Costa Rica* (as in

    Jurassic Park, Yikes!!) Here we are, beamed Gillian,

    welcome to Gillys Island*! (as in Gilligans Island*).

    *The correct answer is Mantanani Besar

    First things should always come first. As soon as we

    dropped our bags, we took photos, plenty of them. With thatheavy duty out of the way, we relaxed instantly with ice-cooled

    lemon tea and hot-fried Malaysian pisang goreng. With light

    refreshments tucked away, we got our room keys, but not before

    we each signed our own d warrant i.e. have warrant will

    dive, still at your own risk.

    No diving that morningthe first (group) dive was

    scheduled for the afternoon, the second (group) dive for the next

    morning because there was not enough gear for everybody.

    Strangely, I saw Prem (his Chinese friends called him Ah

    Peng?!) and a few other divers were actually smilingbecause

    they brought their own gear, and so, have gear will dive, at will,

    but this time at the risk of your own gear.

    This was pretty much free activity time now. Presently,

    Peng (I meant Prem) and I hopped into a kayak and decided to

    test our kayaking skills by paddling to Lingisan Island (about

    12 km away?). First, left and right; then, right and leftand

    we were going nowhere. Soon, left-left, right-rightand we

    were puffing hard, finally going somewherebut not where we

    wanted to goright towards the open sea! Ah sodirection

    was as important as effort!! But still we were beaten to the

    island by Min-cheong and company. We had short chats and

    long rests in between. Revenge was sweet on the return, as we

    paddled right up the shore, beating all comers.

    Lunch came and divers went. The certified ones, that is.

    The discoverers(good namesounds liked adventurers), we

    MARCHAPRIL2003

    Caught in the early morning sunlight, the camping site of the intrepid

    members of The Sabah Society on the first-ever society trip to the Tip

    of Borneo, Tanjung Simpang Mengayau.

    http://www.sccs.swarthmore.edu/users/00/pwillen1/lit/index3.htmhttp://www.sccs.swarthmore.edu/users/00/pwillen1/lit/index3.htm
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    were called, because we were about to discover what scuba

    diving is (or, is not) all about, after (or, if) the certified ones

    returned. There was only one sensible thing to do nowget

    prepared for the discoveryby taking a good nap...

    The turn of the discoverers finally came and we truly

    braved it. First, putting on the gear itself was half the joy (or

    pain, depending on how you put it on!). Second, walking

    upright with it would strengthen your back (or kill you,

    depending how you walk!). Thirdly, breathing with the mask on

    was a piece of cake and a breeze of fresh air (or trying very

    hard to strike an easy balance between not swallowing the

    whole mouth-piece and not spitting it out; between focusing on

    hearing your own stereophonic breathing and on looking at the

    scenic surroundings; and the fine distinction between subtle

    underwater language and a real frantic sign for help). All said,

    we truly enjoyed the discovery experiencewe saw the

    biggest giant clams to the smallest sea slugs; and we

    experienced the delicate combinational art of buoyancy,

    propulsion, and balancein short, we swam like a fish. The

    only disappointment was no sighting of the other fish (actually

    a mammal)the elusive dugong or the legendary mermaid.But, thats another story.

    More free activities followedkayaking, snorkelling,

    swimming, or just plain lazing around gazing at the magnificent

    sunset Wondering what people here do for a living? Presently

    some sweet musica toxicating fusion of light metallic and

    heavy primpingcaught my seawater-filled ears, and I strolled

    across to the shed. A compressor was filling rows of diving-air

    cylinders; and a young man was strumming a guitar, humming

    softly to himself. There I found a simple lesson in economics

    and philosophythe air was free (and fresh), and the man was

    happy (and contented).

    After dinner, more lazing around And some excitement

    stirred when Hori produced a bottle of vintage wine from

    somewhere. After intense interrogation he confessed to

    sneaking off during the days dive to retrieve the bottle from a

    sunken ship (which I immediately named Horis wreck, a little

    beyond Gillys wall). Nobody gave a hoot, though, about the

    sunken loot, when we shared in the drinkingto Horis health,

    of course! (May he sneak off often and returned heavily laden.)

    Next morning (I kicked myself for missing the early bird-

    call), the morning divers were ready and gone. This time I

    teamed up with Rina and Lily for a three-person kayaking tag-

    team. We were confident of emerging as champions (there were

    no other kayaking team around). Perhaps we were a little over-

    confidentwe were thrown overboard even before we started!

    (But, as I was saying, no other team saw us do that.) Soon the

    divers resurfaced, the snorkellers surfaced, and the kayakers

    returned in triumph, with their oars up in the air!

    After an early lunch, it was time to say goodbye to Gilly

    and her island in the sun (and the clams, corals and sea-slugs

    under the water). Was it a good trip? Lets just say that I, and

    also others, are still searching for the elusive dugong (actually I

    did the next best thing-I bought a dugong T-shirt !), and looking

    forward to hear the haunting song of the mermaid.

    Mount Kinabalu Climb 20031820 April 2003

    by Dr Ravi M andalam

    Sabah Society organized for its members, the first climb up

    Mt Kinabalu in its 40-years history. The climb was

    ostensibly for first-timers, the not-so-fit and the totally

    unfit members. Twenty-eight Society members (including

    family members) signed up for the three-day event.

    THESABAHSOCIETYNEWSLETTER71

    Pictured on the beach at Mantanani Resort are members on the third Sabah Society trip to the resort. No dugongs were sighted, but there were

    plenty of activities for everyone. The energetic dived, snorkelled and kayaked, while the lazy (and the children) swam and walked.

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    An overcast sky greeted us on Good Friday, as the members

    arrived in several batches at the Kinabalu Park for the overnight

    stay at the cabins. Our Datuk President warmly greeted the

    members and, in a brief address to them, stressed the historic

    nature of the climb from the Societys viewpoint. Dr Ho Tze

    Hok was designated as the de facto leader of the team. Upon our

    Presidents request I briefed the climbers on the dos and dontsof the climb, particularly since there were a significant number

    of first-timers. I need not have worried; the performance of the

    entire team surprised me the next day! After an early supper

    everyone retired to bed, to be up in the morning for the climb.

    I woke up the next morning to the melodious whistling of

    Cat Stevens Morning has broken by one of our members. The

    mystery musician, I learnt later, was none other than our Dr Ho!

    What a lovely song!! And rightly enough, as I stepped out of the

    cabin, it was the sweetness of the wet garden that greeted me,

    with Kinabalu looming majestically in the background.

    After a quick breakfast, all the Society climbers assembled

    at the Park Office to receive their tags and engage porters to

    carry their luggage up to Laban Rata. The Park Office presenteda cheerful state of kelam kabut, with jostling parties of climbers

    clamouring for porters, guides, tags and transport to the

    Timpohon Gate. Our designated guides were nowhere to be

    seen, and I was getting increasingly anxious about this delay!

    One of the senior guides, Saupinggi, helped me trace them to

    the waiting room behind the office. Four guides, Messrs Simpat,

    Sayun, Patrick and Ronnie, were to accompany us up the

    Mountain. The other formalities were sorted out by 8:30 am and

    we were ready for our departure to Timpohon Gate.

    About this time, Dr Heng, our Vice President, just back

    from a medical mission to evacuate two injured Malaysian

    doctors from war-torn Iraq, drove in from KK to join the party.

    His arrival was greeted by expressions of great delight by manymembers. I must admit I too was overjoyed and relieved to have

    him back aboard for his medical expertise.

    Upon arrival at the Timpohon Gate, we had a brief photo

    session. Datuk Chan flagged off the team at 9 am. We split into

    smaller batches, the quicker ones forged ahead while the slower

    ones took their own time to scale the mountain at a leisurely

    pace. Ben Chai had already made his intention clearhe was

    not intending to go beyond Layang Layang, where he planned

    to celebrate his birthday at the staff quarters. He had stocked upwith eight packets of cup-noodles and was determined to spend

    the night there. The rest of us soldiered on to our destination

    Laban Rata Rest House at 11,000 feet. I brought up the rear,

    together with Dr Ho and Shaji. While Dr Hengs elder son

    Tseng Hui raced up to reach Laban Rata by 11:30 am, we the

    rearguard took 6 hours to finally arrive at 3 pm. The weather

    was pleasant throughout the day except for a heavy, but brief,

    downpour at 1 pm. However, the sky was overcast until 5pm,

    when the clouds parted to allow us occasional glimpses of the

    rocky summit and its soaring peaks, glinting in the twilight.

    Inside the Rest House, our teammates spent their time

    chatting and joking as they sipped endless cups of coffee and

    tea. The ladies in particular, Chui Chui, Aisah, Grace, Christina,Lisa, Balvinder, Catherine, Christine, Rina and Mrs Tai, looked

    fit and cheerful and none the worse for their exertions. The

    Wong family, father and four children, seemed to be the most

    relaxed of all. And yet, despite all the carefree banter, there was

    some anxiety and tension in the air about the next days climb

    to the summit. Lisa managed to contact birthday boy Ben and

    find that he had reached Layang Layang staff quarters safely. I

    spent the evening watching the sunset. Shaji had carried a load

    of books published by the Sabah Society all the way up to

    Laban Rata. Dr Ho, on behalf of the Society, donated the books

    to the caretaker of Laban Rata Rest House for the reading

    pleasure of future climbers.

    The team was up early next morning at the unearthly hourof 1 am. Many confessed to not having slept a wink throughout

    the night. After a quick breakfast we were off at 2:30 am, with

    MARCHAPRIL2003

    Sabah Society Boleh! This was proven without a doubt when all members (only a few are shown here) on the first Sabah Society climb of Mount

    Kinabalu reached the summit. A remarkable achievement, as the trip was aimed at the old (children are old??) and the unfit.

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    two guides leading the way and two others bringing up the rear.

    We all made good time and reached the ropes at the Sayat Sayat

    rock face by 4:30 am. Once again, Chui Chui and the Heng boys

    were far ahead, with the Jamiesons, Christine, Balvinder, Lisa

    and the Wong family following them. Paul, suffering from

    mountain sickness, briefly toyed with the idea of stopping at

    Sayat Sayat, before gamely deciding to follow us to the summit.

    Grace, Christina, Mrs. Tai, Aisah and Gulam, all showing signs

    of exhaustion, nevertheless kept on climbing, with grit and

    determination. The atmosphere at 13000 feet has only 50%

    oxygen compared to sea level. The slightest exertion on even a

    gentle slope is enough to make one breathless and exhausted.

    Mark, Dr Ho, Dr Heng and I were at the rear to ensure that no

    one was left behind.We gradually went past the South Peak and St Johns Peak

    on our left and Tunku Abdul Rahman Peak, Donkeys Ears and

    Ugly Sisters Peak on our right, the last ones from our team

    eventually arriving at the foot of Lows Peak by 7:30 am. By

    then, the Jamiesons, Christine and the Wongs decided to come

    down from the summit. The last few hundred feet are invariably

    daunting for the first-timers, as one is confronted by the narrow

    crevices and steep boulders on the way up to the top of the peak.

    Gulam and Mark preferred to stop just below the summit. All

    the rest made it to the top.

    From the top the entire west coast was visible, including

    Pulau Gaya and the other islands off the coast at KK. To the

    north, Tambuyukon loomed, beyond the North Peak of

    Kinabalu. The twin peaks of Mentapok and Menkobo were seen

    to our east, jutting above a sea of clouds. Southwards, far on the

    horizon, the long Trusmadi range and its peak could be seen, the

    second highest mountain in Malaysia. Just in front of us was the

    immense chasm of Lows Gully.

    After duly recording our climb with a brief photo session,

    our party descended. Some of us made our way to the Sacrifice

    Pool for some prayers of thanksgiving to the mountain deity, in

    true native tradition. Thereafter started the painful descent back

    to Laban Rata and finally down to Timpohon Gate.

    Thus ended Sabah Societys historic climb up Mt Kinabalu.

    Enduring images of the climb will remain etched in my memory

    foreverthe sheer will and determination shown to reach the

    target, particularly by Grace, Aisah, Gulam, Christina and MrsTai, the wonderful team spirit displayed by one and all (there

    was no bickering whatsoeverunusual for such a large party),

    Hengs cheerful face as he dashed up to the Park at the last

    minute to join us, the quiet gentle demeanour of the Jamiesons,

    the Tais and the Wongs and the cheerful company of my

    younger friends Shaji, Mark and Paul Chin. And yet the most

    lingering memory of all, the tuneful morning call by Dr Ho:

    Morning has broken, like the first morning

    Blackbird has spoken like the first bird

    Praise for the singing, praise for the morning

    Praise for the springing, fresh from the word

    Sabah Society Boleh!!!!

    THESABAHSOCIETYNEWSLETTER71

    After the climb from Timpohon Gate. it was time for members of The Sabah Society to relax at the Laban Rata Rest House and forget their

    anxieties about the following days ascent to the summit of Mount Kinabalu.

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    FORUM

    Gaya Street: The Future

    Shangri-Las Tanjung Aru Resort

    Kota KinabaluWednesday, 19 March 2003

    CHAIRMAN: Dr Richard Barrow

    SPEAKERS: Datuk Hiew Thien Choi

    (Director-General of DBKK 20002002)

    Datuk Ambrose Lee

    (Lawyer, Executive Adviser to Sugar Bun and

    entrepreneur)

    Datuk Yong Teck Lee

    (Lawyer, President of SAPP, former State

    Assemblyman & MP for Gaya constituency,

    former Sabah Chief Minister)

    Dr Chua Kim Heng (present Director-General

    of DBKK)

    The controversial plan to convert Gaya Street in the heart of

    Kota Kinabalu into a pedestrian mall was the subject of a very

    well-attended public forum organized by The Sabah Society.

    The four speakers were chosen for their close association, in

    various ways, with the now-abandoned scheme. The forum

    ended in a lively question and answer session during which

    members of the audience with varied interests in the area voiced

    their opinion of the scheme and its cancellation. Perhaps the

    only disappointment was the lack of attendance by Gaya Street

    stakeholders (only three attended the forum) despite thedistribution of leaflets to notify them of the forum.

    Datuk Hiew Thien Choi, former director-general of DBKK

    explained the original concept of the project. It was part of a

    much larger plan to revitalize the central business district. Five

    meetings had been held with stakeholders prior to the

    implementation of the plan, but attendance was very poor. He

    admitted that the masterplan had flaws, but with changes it

    could still proceed. The private sector could take over some

    components of the plan.

    The present DBKK director-general, Dr Chua Kim Heng,

    who showed numerous photos of Gaya Street before, during andafter the project, said that the plans for Gaya Street could be

    revived, if the public wants it. Without change the street is likely

    to become a slum like Sinsuran Complex. He feels that the

    future of the street is in the hands of the people of the city.

    Yong Teck Lee, MP and Assemblyman at the time of the

    project, who also has his office on Gaya Street, felt that though

    the pedestrian mall was a good idea, not all the stakeholders in

    the area had been consulted on the planned changes. Their input

    to the plan, he felt, was vital to the success of the project.

    Ambrose Lee spoke about the Sugar Bun development near

    Gaya Street. Although complaints were received about noise

    and rubbish during the construction period, the area has now

    been totally transformed, the numerous plants giving a forestfeel to the development. Lee pointed out that Jalan Jati did not

    belong to Sugar Bun; the company had a ten-year lease on the

    street for which it was paying rent. He would like to see the

    whole of Gaya Street closed and covered, to provide shelter

    from sun and rain.

    Chairman Dr Richard Barrow would like to see Gaya Street

    developed as an eating-out area for both local families and

    tourists. But a pleasant and healthy atmosphere can only be

    achieved if the road is closed to all traffic. DBKK could perhaps

    offer incentives to suitable businesses to move to the area.

    One of the many questions and comments from the floor

    was that while a great deal of money was spent on the

    development of Gaya Street, nothing was being done to cleanup the filthy back lanes behind it. A case of priorities gone

    awry?

    All in all, a very successful event. Lets hope the next

    forumon Likas Baywill be equally lively.

    MARCHAPRIL2003

    Chairman Dr Richard Barrow (centre) with the four speakers (left to right)Datuk Hiew Thien Choi, Datuk Yong Teck Lee, Datuk Ambrose

    Lee and Dr Chua Kim Hengat the Public Forum on Gaya Street: The Future organized by The Sabah Society.

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    THESABAHSOCIETYNEWSLETTER71

    Sabah Society Committee Members for 2003/2004 (left to right): Dr Ho Tze Hok, Mr Albert Teo, Mr Daniel Soo (Hon Treasurer), Dr Richard

    Barrow, Datuk Chan Chew Lun (President), Dr Heng Aik Cheng (Vice President), Puan Zahra Yaacob (Hon Secretary), Dr Geoffrey Davison

    (Hon Editor (Journal)), Mr Wallace Welliam Tan and Dr Ravi Mandalam.