Dress Toddler

7/17/2019 Dress Toddler

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©2015 Lesley A. Karpiuk || http://www.ThePinkToque.com || http://www.geeksoap.net || [email protected]

Sew Sweet Crochet + Fabric Toddler Dress AfreepatternbyLesleyKarpiukof ThePinkToque.com

Materials Needed

Size I crochet hook, or whatever hook to reach gauge

Medium weight yarn, like a cotton or acrylic (See notes

below for considerations)

At least 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric

Coordinating thread

Sewing machine

Optional

Double folded bias tape

Buttons

Gauge

13 sts = 4" and 9 rows = 4" in hdc

Bodice Size

This pattern is for size 2 years with a 21" chest. See suggestions

below for adapting to larger sizes: 4, 6, and 8. (The larger sizes

have not been tested!)

Stitches Needed

Fhdc

= foundation half double crochet. This creates a foundation chain and a first row of half double crochet

stitches all in one.

sl st

= slip stitch

ch = chainhdc

= half double crochet stitch

sc

= single crochet stitch

blo = back loops only. Insert your hook into the back loop only instead of both loops of the st.

Notes before You Start

The bodice is worked continuously in rounds with the right side facing out. To avoid a noticeable diagonal join

seam along the way, you'll start each round by skipping the first stitch (I like to put a marker in the first stitch to

"hold" it) and then work the last stitch(es) of the round into that skipped stitch before joining at the beginning

with a sl st. Later on you'll notice the ugly diagonal seam will be hidden on the inside, but will be virtually

invisible on the outside/right side. It's magic!

Bodice Pattern

Round 1: Fhdc 48. Be careful not to twist stitches and join with a sl st to first Fhdc. You'll now be working in

rounds going forward.

Round 2: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 23 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from * around. (The last 2 hdc

increase will be worked in that first skipped stitch.) Join with a sl st to first st. (50)

Round 3:

Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st

to first st. (60)

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Round 4: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st

to first st. (70)

Round 5:


to first st. (80)

Round 6:


to first st. (90)

Round 7:


to first st. (100)

Rounds 8 - 10: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) hdc around. Join with a sl st to first st. (100)

Round 11: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 23 sts, ch 1, skip next 22 sts, hdc in next 28 sts (first armhole

made), ch 1, skip next 22 sts, hdc in last 5 sts (second armhole made), join with a sl st to first st. (56 sts + 2 chs)

Rounds 12 - 16:

Ch 2 (skip first stitch) hdc around. Join with a sl st to first st. (58)

Rounds 17-18:

Ch 1 (skip first stitch) sc around in blo. Join with a sl st to first st. (58) - this creates two rows of

the bodice's "belt."

Finish off and weave in ends.

Suggestions to Adapt for Larger Sizes

In Round 1, Fhdc 50, 52, 54 sts to go up in sizes 4, 6, and 8 respectively. Adjust the other numbers in the

pattern accordingly; in Round 2, for example, 23 sts is one stitch short of halfway around (so that the

increase 2 hdc can go in the halfway point.)

Rounds 3-7 as written above are increase rounds. If you look, you can see the "pattern" I followed to do the

increases. Just add one more to the number of hdc you do before the 2 hdc increase.

For size 4 - add one more round of increases before beginning Rounds 8-10 as written above. (i.e. *hdc

in the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to first st.)

For size 6 - add two more rounds of increases before beginning Rounds 8-10 as written above.

For size 8 - add three more rounds of increases before beginning Rounds 8-10 as written above.

Rounds 12-16 as written above are rounds to add length to the bodice under the armholes to the waist.

You may find that you need to add more length to your bodice if you're adjusting for larger sizes. It

depends on your preference: less length = more of an empire waist. I suggest adding at least one more

round to the length for size 4, two more rounds to the length for size 6, and three more rounds to the

length for size 8. But that's not a hard and fast rule - it all depends on the look you're going for.
















You may also be able to play with sizing to go larger (or smaller!) by increasing or decreasing your hook size to

get a smaller gauge.

Fabric

You'll need at least a half yard of coordinating fabric; more for bigger sizes. Pre-wash and press your fabric. For

the 2 year size, I cut a 30" x 12" rectangle of fabric. My bodice was 10.5" wide when gently stretched, which

means the circumference was 21" around. I cut a wider rectangle because I used a running stitch across the top

and cinched it to the 21" length. This gave the skirt a slightly pleated look at the top where it connects to the

bodice instead of just being a straight skirt. You could also sew in elastic here to achieve the same effect if you

want, but I didn't have any at the time. If you prefer a straighter "pencil" skirt, I still recommend adding an extra

couple inches or so to your rectangle width than you need to account for the seam and your bodice's stretch. If

possible, measure your model for length and add 2" to account for the top and bottom hemming, and the fact

you'll lose a little length when you attach the skirt inside the bodice later.

For the dress where I went up a hook size and held two strands of cotton yarn together to make a slightly

larger, thicker bodice and skirt to wear over a long-sleeved top and tights in the fall, my bodice was 12" wide

when gently stretched, or 24" around. I cut my fabric square 35" x 14" to accommodate the slightly larger size,

and because I wanted the skirt to be a tad bit longer for warmth. Remember: you can always cut too much and

hem or trim if you need to.

A Note about Stretch - Yarn and Fabric

Consider the stretch of both the yarn and the fabric you choose, because this will affect your measurements. I

used a cotton yarn and cotton fabric for the examples in this pattern. The bodice will always have some stretch

due to the nature of being crocheted, but be sure to add a little extra width to fabric that isn't as stretchy (like

the cotton I used) to make sure it has some give when worn. No matter how wide you cut your fabric to

account for stretch, your end goal after sewing up your side seam is to get your fabric to roughly the same

width of your gently stretched bodice so that the circumference of your fabric and the circumference of your

bodice match up when you sew them together. It's better to have slightly wider fabric that you can pleat or

cinch to meet your bodice measurements than to have too little fabric that won't stretch, or that looks badwhen stretched too tightly.

Preparing the Fabric Skirt

Heat up your iron! Pressing when you fold the

fabric to hem will make your edges look crisp and

clean! Fold both the top and bottom edges over by

a 1/2" or so to hem them with clean edges that

won't fray. If you want, grab some double folded

bias tape (Often found with buttons and zippers)

and sandwich the bottom edge of your skirt in

between the bias tape and stitch across the top of

it with a zig-zag stitch to add a pretty, coordinating

trim at the bottom of the skirt without hemming. I

still recommend folding over the top edge at least

once (twice is even better - once over and once

again in on itself) and stitching a straight (or zig zag)

stitch across to secure, even though this part will be hidden on the inside of the bodice. This way you don't have

fraying on the inside, which could be itchy and uncomfortable to the wearer.
















Now fold your skirt in half width-wise, good sides

facing each other on the inside. You'll likely have a

little more than the width you need, which is perfect -

you need to account for the side seam. Make sure

after seaming, the width is the width of your gently

stretched crochet bodice. For example, my bodice for

a size 2 dress gently stretched was 10.5" wide. When

folded in half, my skirt needs to also be roughly 10.5"

after sewing up the side seam. Measure and mark

with pins where your seam should be to make your

skirt the proper width. Sew up the seam, cut off any

excess and use a zig zag stitch along the raw, cut edge

to "serge" it and prevent fraying.

Putting It All Together

Now that your bodice and skirt are both done, it's time to put them together! Grab your pins and begin by

slipping the top of the skirt (right side out) inside the bodice, also right side out. Line up your skirt fabric so that

the vertical seam goes right up the middle of the back side. Carefully pin the skirt around inside the bodice,

stretching it a bit on the sides and pinning there, too. I slid my fabric up into the bodice about 2 rows from thebottom and lined the top edge of the fabric slightly above the first row where you switched to sc in the blo.

(Top of the "belt.") I then pinned right along the top edge of the bodice's sc rows in a line around to hold the

fabric in place.

Sewing

Slip the dress carefully onto the arm of

your sewing machine and start

stitching! I used a straight stitch along

the top of the bodice's "belt" all the

way around, starting & finishing at theseam in the back, and then a zig zag

stitch along the bottom edge of the

bodice where it meets the fabric, to

form a really secure connection

between the bodice and skirt. I used

thread that matched the yarn of the

bodice closely, and the stitches were

hardly noticeable! The straight

stitching blended in well to the straight

edge of the sc in the blo pattern, and

the zig zags looked almost decorative

right at the bottom. (This was also consistent with the zig zagging I did between the bias tape and fabric along

the bottom hem of the skirt.)

Finished

Note:

I'm sure you could also pin this and sew it inside out and then flip it right side out, but I felt like it didn't

make much difference visually with the sewing machine stitches on the crochet fabric. It may be more or less

fiddly for you when pinning the skirt and bodice together, so whatever is most comfortable for you.
















Washing & Care Instructions

Take care to follow washing instructions of both the yarn and fabric that you use, taking the most delicate into

consideration for washing. I highly recommend that you do a gentle wash cycle, keeping the dress protected

inside of a pillowcase, and lay flat to dry instead of putting through the dryer for best results and to keep your

special garment looking beautiful for repeat wear.

Dress Variations and Other Ways to Spice it up

Use cotton yarn for summertime outfits and acrylic or wool for cooler seasons.

Use a smaller hook and do a dainty crochet scalloped edge around the neck, sleeves, and bottom of the

bodice. Here’s an example of a scalloped edge.

Crochet a pretty flower to dress up the front. Use a coordinating button to be the center of the flower

and to affix it to the bodice.

Hold two strands together when crocheting for a thicker, less-see-through bodice. Use two different

colors to mix things up!

Hold two strands together and crochet with one hook-size up to make a thicker, warmer bodice and pair

it with a 'warmer' fabric (like corduroy!) for the skirt to make your dress into a jumper that can be worn

over long-sleeved shirts and/or tights for a beautiful fall or winter outfit. Make sure to measure and

adjust fabric dimensions accordingly when making the skirt; your bodice will be a few inches wider and

the outfit overall a little bigger to accommodate being worn over other clothing.

Use self-striping yarn or multiple yarn colors and stripe them as you work to make it colorful.

Lightly sew in a rectangular piece of plain fabric on the inside front of your dress if you feel it's too see-

through. It doesn't need to be fully lined! For best results in case you are worried your stitches will be

visible on the front, make the fabric rectangle wide enough to go the full width of the front, making the

sewn edges line up with the side edges of the bodice. This would make any visible stitches appear to be

a side seam and be relatively hidden. No need to sew the top and bottom edges, unless you want them

to be visible because you're using a more decorative stitch.

Make the skirt full-length to dress it up and make a more formal outfit. Use sparkly yarn or fancy fabrics

to really dress it up, too!

Add a crochet trim along the bottom of the fabric skirt! Check out this tutorial. Use ribbon! Gently weave coordinating ribbon around the neck, sleeves, or waist of the bodice for a

fashionable way to dress it up. Add ribbon just at the waist of the bodice to simulate a belt. If adding

ribbon along the neck, consider tying a big, decorative bow at one shoulder or at the back for a pretty

fashion statement. It's recommended that you secure the ribbon with some thread at the bow or ends

after weaving to help keep it in place so that it doesn't move or cinch the crochet fabric later. (Unless

you want to use the ribbon to cinch the neckline or waist – yet another option!)

Use buttons in a row up the back of the bodice to give it the appearance of buttoning up the back.

Arrange and attach buttons to look like a necklace on the front of the bodice. Weave in a little ribbon

with them to add to the effect.

Attach coordinating flowers or hair bows with alligator clips to the front pocket area to change up thelook on the fly.

Make the rectangle of fabric three times wider than needed and use a ruffle presser foot on your sewing

machine or elastic to really make the top edge of the skirt extra ruffly and full.

Crochet with beads! Here’s a tutorial. Beads will be embedded into the crochet, but they can also be a

choking hazard if not careful, so take that into consideration.

For the crochet-savvy:

Re-attach yarn to the sleeves when complete and continue crocheting rows of

HDC around and around until you have a 3/4th length sleeve or full-length sleeves for your dress for fall

wear. Follow the same pattern of ch2 and skipping the first HDC, HDC around, and having the last stitch










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worked into the skipped stitch before using a sl st into the ch2 space to complete each sleeve row, just

as you did in the bodice pattern. Don't forget to count rows and measure along the way so that you

remember what you did on the first sleeve to replicate on the second sleeve. You'll want to gently

decrease the last several rows as you get closer to the wrist opening of the sleeve.













Dress Toddler

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