DresdenBladeJellyRoll Class

©Designed by Sue Dwyer – Obsession 2 Quilt www.obsession2quilt.co.nz

Dresden Blade - Jelly Roll 77 ½” X 77 ½”

Welcome to Dresden Blade – Jelly Roll FREE On-Line Class

designed by Sue Dwyer & Toni Brazendale for

Obsession 2 Quilt – www.obsession2quilt.co.nz launched October 2011.

Please read all & listen to all instructions carefully before beginning. All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated.

All fabric is cut across the fabric unless otherwise stated.

We recommend you choose your Background & Border Fabrics after you have constructed your blades.

If you still have any questions please email us on [email protected]

Class Requirements:

One Jelly Roll or Forty 2 ½” Strips

2.80m Background Fabric

One Fat Eight for Circle & Half Circles

0.25cm for the Sashing Border

0.60cm for the Second Border

1.50m for the Final Border

0.60cm for the Binding

0.15cm Freezer Paper

Template Plastic

Scissors & Pen for Template Plastic

Rotary Cutter, Mat & Ruler (15 ½” Square)

General Sewing Supplies

General Thread for Piecing, Thread to match Background Fabric & Clear (for light fabrics) or a Smoke (for dark fabrics) Invisible Thread & Threads for Quilting

Sewing Machine cleaned & oiled with a new needle (80/12 for general piecing & 70/10 for

Invisible Thread work) NB: You need to change the needle in your sewing machine every 8 hours of actual sewing time, this does not include the time you spend cutting only the time you spend

sewing.

NB: We used a Scrapers Delight Jelly Roll, the same fabric for the Circles, Half Circles Sashing Border,

1st Border & Binding.

http://www.obsession2quilt.co.nz/


Step One:

Making the Blades:

Join the pattern pieces together.

Trace the Blade Template only onto Template Plastic, ensuring you put on all the markings. NB: We use plastic cutting boards which can be purchased from the $2 Shop – In a packet of 3.

Cut out the Template using a pair of paper scissors.

Separate the Jelly Roll Strips (2 ½” Strips) into darks and lights. If unsure as to whether they sit in the dark or light pile put them aside until the end. NB: If not using a Jelly Roll you will require 40

X 2 ½” Strips, cut across the fabric.

When you have separated the obvious ones into piles, count them – you need 20 Strips in each pile. Now add the unsure ones into the piles to make two piles of 20.

Stitch them together in pairs of one light & one dark, down one long side of the strip

Press the seam open.

Line up the centre line on the template with the

Seam Line of the joined strips and draw on 3 blades from each pair of strips, (if you cut the

plastic you run the risk of the blades not fitting

together correctly) & cut out on the drawn line.

Place the template the same way for each strip.

NB: with all the light strips on the right side, left

side up. (picture 1 – right)

Fold each blade in half & stitch together across the

top of each blade, trim the point and turn out to the

right side and press the seam open so that the seam forming the point comes down on top of the centre

join. (picture 2 – middle right)

Stitch blades together in pairs, starting at the top

and press seam open (backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam) (picture 3 – bottom)

Stitch together the pairs to get groups of 10 (1/2 of

the circle) repeat another 5 times (six ½ circles in

total)

Take two ½ circles and join together to form the centre of the quilt top. Press the seams open.

Make sure that the two half circles are different fabrics, so that there is one of all 40 fabrics in the

centre circle.

Press well.

Dark

Light


Step Two:

Attaching the Centre Circle:

For the Background in the Centre you require a piece of fabric that is a

minimum of 42” long, using the full width of the fabric. Fold in half the

in half again & press well. (picture 1 top right)

Using your board, line the folded edges of the square on a horizontal & vertically line of the board & measure 20 ¼” & cut, turn the board &

measure 20 ¼” again &cut. (picture 2 bottom right) This will give you

one 40 ½” Square.

Align the centre circle with the 4 press marks on the background square and pin the centre circle on. Pin at every point. (picture 3 below

left & 4 below middle)

With invisible thread in the needle and a bobbin thread to match the background, attach the Centre Circle using a straight stitch with a 1/8” seam allowance & stitch around the centre of the

circle.

Set the machine to zig zag with the needle just catching the blades on one swing and the

background on the other, taking a few stitches in place at the point of each blade. This will give it an invisible and like it was hand done. Turn your machine speed down until you are confident.

(refer to Attaching the Blades Video )

Press well.

http://www.obsession2quilt.co.nz/Free-Video-1


Step Three:

Attaching the Half Circles:

Two 30 ½” Squares are required for the four ½ Triangles

For the Background Triangles you will need two pieces of fabric that are a minimum of 32” long, using the full width of the fabric. Fold in half the in half again & press well. (picture 1 bottom left)

Using your board, line the folded edges of the square on a horizontal & vertically line of the

board & measure 15 ¼” & cut, turn the board & measure 15 ¼” again &cut. (picture 2 bottom

middle) This will give you one 30 ½” Square. NB: If you have a 15 ½” Square, use this ruler to square up fabric.

Open up the Square & fold diagonally, press.

Repeat with the other square to yield Four Triangles.

Cut along the pressed diagonal line for the Corner Triangles. (picture 3 bottom right)

Press each Triangle in half, making a smaller triangle to give you a press line to align the blades with.

Align the centre of one of the half circles with the press marks on the background triangle and pin the centre blade first, the place a pin at every point. (picture 4 below left & 5 below right)

Repeat for the remaining Three Triangles.

Attach the ½ Circles as you have attached the Centre

Circle, using straight stitch with a 1/8” seam allowance along the edges & inside the circle & a zig zag for the blades.

(refer to Attaching the Blades video)

Press well.

Repeat until all four triangles are attached.



Step Four:

Stitching the Circles:

Take a two pieces of Freezer Paper big enough for the Circle & the Half

Circle.

Trace the Full Circle once & the Half Circle once from the pattern sheet onto the dull side of one of the pieces of Freezer Paper.

Press both pieces of Freezer Paper together – shinny side of the piece you

have drawn on to the dull side of the remaining piece of Freezer Paper

Cut the Freezer Paper Templates out on the line.

Press the Freezer Paper Templates to the Circle Fabric, shinny side down & cut out adding a ¼” seam to each template. NB: You require One Circle & Four Half Circles.

Remove Freezer paper & stitch around the edge using a large stitch leaving 2” thread tails on

each side. (picture 1 top right)

Press shinny side of Freezer Paper to wrong side of the stitched Circle & ½ Circle pieces again &

pull up the thread tails up, to gather the seam up over the Freezer Paper. (refer to Attaching

Circles Video)

Press from the back, remove Freezer Paper, press, turn so that the right side of the circle is up & press again.

Fold in half – finger press to make a centre line & line up with the centre of the blades.

Pin in place starting with the centre pin, working out to either side.

(picture 2 bottom right)

Attach using the same zig zag method as the blades.

Press well.

Repeat until you have attached One Centre Circle & Four Half Circles.

Step Five:

1st Border:

Cut Four 1 ¾” Strips for 1st Border

Lay two strips for the 1st border across the centre of the quilt & trim to size. (picture 1 bottom leftt

& 2 bottom middle)

Attach one to the top & one to the bottom. Press seams away from the centre.

Join the remaining three strips together on the bias, trim & press seams open. (picture 3 bottom right)

Fold the strip in half & lay down the centre of the quilt & trim to size.

Attach one to both sides of the quilt. Press the seams away from the centre.




Step Six:

Attaching Triangles:

Attach one triangle to each side of the centre square, opposite

sides first and then the remaining two sides, putting the centre

square on point. (picture 1 bottom left & 2 bottom right)

Press the seam towards the first border. NB: You should now have the seams from the centre & the triangles pressed onto the 1st

border strips, we do this to help the border stand out in the

quilting process. (picture 2 right)


Step Seven:

Attaching Remaining Borders:

Cut Six 3” Strips for 2nd Border

Cut Eight 6 ½” Strips for Final Border

Attach the 2nd Border by joining the strips into two groups of three

strips together on the bias, trim & press seams open. (picture 1 right)

Fold one strip in half & lay across the centre of the quilt & trim to size. (picture 2 bottom left & 3 bottom right)

Attach one to the top & one to the bottom of the quilt. Press the

seams away from the centre. Fold the remaining strip in half & lay down the centre of the quilt & trim to size.

Attach one to both sides of the quilt. Press the seams away from the centre.

Repeat the above method for the Final Border, joining together the Border Strips into four lots of pairs. Using two of the paired strips for the top & bottom & the remaining two for the sides of the

quilt top.

NB: The quilt top should now measure 77” X 77”


Step Eight:

Preparing the Quilt for Quilting:

Place your Batting over the back of a chair or on

a spare bed for at least 24hours before you

require it to allow all the fibers to relax. This will

give you a flatter quilt, making it easier to quilt.

Join the backing & batting together if required

to make it at least 4” larger than the quilt top.

Eg) 81” X 81”

Lay out your backing fabric down wrong side up and pin down firmly to keep taught. NB: As

this is a large quilt, we would recommend you

use a large table & hold the backing fabric down with bull-dog clips if possible. If you are

able to use bull-dog clips start pining at the

middle, then move the quilt over using the weight of the quilt to hold down the sides while you

pin the other side. (picture 1 top right) If not able to use a table then tape the quilt down firmly to

a flat surface like a hard floor. (refer to Preparation for Quilting Video)

Place your batting, ensuring you place it the right side up on the backing fabric and then place you’re well pressed quilt top right side up.

Using safety pins, pin the quilt. If unsure of how many to use the rule is the more the better. Don’t close safety pins until you have finished pinning as closing the safety pins early can distort the

quilt. An easy way to close the pins is with a crochet hook, use the hook in the non-dominant hand

to pick up the pin point and press down with your dominant hand on the pin to close. NB: Do not

pin to close to the edge of the blades as you need to quilt close to the edges of the blades.

Pin, using straight pins on an angle down all the straight edges you that be quilting in the ditch such as the borders & the outside edge. NB: Remembering to place the pins with the head of the

pin away from the oncoming machine foot when stitching, this will enable you to stitch right up to

the pin before having to remove it. (picture 2 bottom right)

NB: You cannot ditch stitch

the Blades as the seams

have been pressed open;

therefore if you stitched

in the ditch you would

be stitching on the thread

– not the fabric.



Step Nine:

Quilting:

Set your machine up with the walking foot, a bobbin to match the backing fabric & an invisible

thread or a thread to match the background fabric on top. NB: When using Invisible Thread use a

clear for light colours, a smoke for dark colours & a smaller

needle.

Increase your stitch length & stitch around the outside first then

in the ditch of all the borders, removing the pins as you go. Trim

your threads. (picture 1 right) NB: We increase the stitch length

to help the machine take up the extra layers.

Set your machine up with the quilting/free-motion foot, lower

the feed dogs & stitch around the blades, keeping as close to the

edge as possible. If you stitch onto the blades, don’t panic even the best quilter’s make mistakes. Stop & go back & re-stitch

along the edge & the when you have finished go back & un-

pick the oppsy. (refer to Quilting Video) NB: If you have a pair of

quilting gloves, use these as they give you a better grip & remember to lower the foot on your

machine so the tensions will engage.

Quilt the Triangles, Centre Circle, ½ Circles & Borders as desired NOTE the blades can’t be ditch stitch as they have the seams pressed open. We would recommend an Eco Pattern around

the blades & a design on the blades & in the borders. Use your preferred marking method to

place your design onto the Quilt. We use a Miracle Marking Kit on a dark background, removed by steam pressing & on a white background we would use a Blue Pen, removed by washing. (refer

to pictures below) NB: Before beginning any quilting, test drive a piece of layered fabric to ensure

the tension is correct & write the settings in your machine manual as a reference for next time eg)

40 Weight Rayon Thread, Free Motion Foot, Top Tension 3 – each machine set up will be

different.



Step Ten:

Attaching the Binding:

Trim the batting and backing, using a large square ruler to

square the corners up & a straight ruler & cutter to trim

up the edges. (picture 1 top right)

Cut Nine Strips 2 ¼” & join together on the bias to form one long Strip. Press the seams open. (picture 2 bottom

right)

Lay the quilt down flat & place a registration pin in the quilt somewhere in the centre.

Take the binding strip & measure out the binding.

(refer to Binding Preparation Video)

Find the centre of the quilt on all four sides & place a pin.

Fold the strip in half with the wrong sides together & pin the binding on.

Attach using your walking foot & a ¼” seam around the quilt mitering the corners, remembering to increase your stitch length. NB: If you get a bubble don’t panic, remove from the machine &

turn over letting the machine take up the slack. (refer to Attaching Binding Video)

Join the edges together at the start/finish with a bias seam, changing the stitch length back to normal & trim.

Finger press seam open, fold wrong sides together & increasing the stitch length again finish

attaching the binding.

Fold the binding towards the back & pin with straight pins, so that you will reach the head of the

pin with the needle first. Only pin approximately 10” at a time.

Thread up a needle in the colour of the binding & slip stitch down by hand. (refer to Slip Stitching Binding Down Video)





The Following are Optional Steps:

Step Eleven:

Attaching a Hanging Sleeve:

Preferable use the same fabric as the Backing Fabric

If the Wall Hanging is larger than 40” in width you will require two sleeves. One Sleeve: Cut a piece 9” X the width of Wall Hanging less 3” Eg) If the Wall Hanging is 30” wide the

Hanging Sleeve is cut at 27”

Two Sleeves: Cut a piece 9” X the width of Wall Hanging less 5” & cut in half. Eg) If the Wall Hanging is

50” wide the Hanging Sleeve is cut at 45” then in half so you have two pieces 9” X 22 ½”

Double Hem the two short ends.

Fold in ½ & lightly press.

Open out & fold raw edges into the centre press marks, wrong sides together, and right sides out & press again. (picture 1 bottom middle)

Using a ¼” Foot, join the two raw edges wrong sides together,

backstitching at both ends. (picture 2 right)

Keeping the original cresses in place, press the seam open. The Hanging Sleeve is now ready to attach.

One Sleeve:

Making sure you attach the Hanging Sleeve to the top of the Wall Hanging, find the centre of both the sleeve & quilt, placing one of the press folded edges

directly under the binding pin the sleeve to the quilt.

Pin the rest of the sleeve on ensuring the open seam; is flat against the back of the quilt & you have a hump in front – this enables a rod to slide

through easily & makes it hard to detect when hanging. NB: The

Hanging Sleeve should not go all the way to the sides, allowing room for

the rod to be hidden from view. (picture 3 bottom right)

Two Sleeves:

Making sure you attach the Hanging Sleeve to the top of the Wall Hanging, find the centre of quilt, measure back 1” either side & place a registration pin.

Following the method above attach the Hanging Sleeves starting at the registration pins going to the outside; this enables you to place a hook in the centre for extra stability when hanging your

quilts.


Step Twelve:

Label:

Press a piece of Freezer Paper, shinny side to the wrong side of the Label Fabric for stability

& using a permanent pen, (we recommend a Micro Pigma Pen0.1 – 0.5 as they are acid free)

write the following information:

Makers Name

Date/Year Quilt was made

If a gift – who is receiving & why

Products used ie) cotton outer, 100% wool batting, cotton

top

Washing Instructions – DO NOT DRY CLEAN!!

Congratulations

you have now finished a Free On-Line Class designed by Sue Dwyer

& Toni Brazendale for Obsession 2 Quilt – October 2011.

Please feel free to email us with any comments or questions on [email protected] or visit our website www.obsession2quilt.co.nz

for more On-Line Classes, On-Line Block of the Months

& On-Line Patterns.

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.obsession2quilt.co.nz/

DresdenBladeJellyRoll Class

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Transcript of DresdenBladeJellyRoll Class