Drawing the Plans

The next step after the lot is paid for is to complete your plans. You may have been

dreaming for years, but now is the time to crystallize the plans and get them into

final form. This is admittedly difficult, as many of the ideas we have are mutually

incompatible and contradictory. We have to begin to make choices, to make definite

decisions. Do we want a separate dining room, or is a breakfast nook adequate? Do

we need a family room; if so, can we afford that much house? What kind of roof will

be used? What kind of exterior walls will we finally build? All these questions and

hundreds more will have to be given definite and specific answers before the plans

can be completed.

In order to draw the plans accurately and quickly, you will need a few small pieces of

equipment:

A drawing board at least 18" x 24", preferably 24" x 30".

T-square as long as the board.

45° plastic triangle; a 30°-60° is also useful at times.

A 12" rule, or an architect's scale. Two drawing pencils, H and 3H. Soft eraser.

Drawing paper, 18" x 24" or larger.

Tracing paper, comes in sheets, or in rolls of 10 yards or more.

Masking tape to hold paper in place on board.

The drawing board can easily be made of a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood.

Hardwood, such as birch or maple, is much better than fir or pine, but these can be

used if covered with two or three layers of firm hard paper. The left end of the board

must be straight and smooth, as the T-square slides along that end, unless you are

left-handed, in which case the right end of the board must be straight.

It is better to get a T-square with transparent edges, as it is easier to see where to

begin and end a line if you can see through the T- square.

As you will use only a few simple scales, an ordinary rule will be satisfactory, but you

can buy a regular architect's scale if you wish. You can also get good results even

with a yardstick. The scale used in America is 1/4" = 1' 0". In some countries the

metric system is used, but American carpenters would find it more than confusing.

For the details of the cupboards you will use either 1/2" — 1', or 1" = 1’. For the plot

plan let 1" = 16', but if this does not fit the paper, select any appropriate scale.

Many people prefer an H pencil for the lettering and a 3H for the lines. An ordinary

pencil is not good because of a tendency to smear, and as the blueprints are made

directly from the pencil tracings, a more opaque lead is needed. There are several

makes of good drawing pencils—Turquoise, Lumograph, Castell, Koh-i-noor, to name

a few.

It is possible to get mechanical lead holders that take drawing pencil leads and hold

them securely. Ordinary mechanical pencils do not hold the lead securely enough

and they take smaller leads. Drawing leads, about five inches long, are larger in

diameter than ordinary leads. With a mechanical pencil you will need a special

sharpener made exclusively for this type of pencil. If you can afford the three-dollar

investment in a pencil and sharpener, you will find it much easier to make a first-

class drawing. The point of the pencil can be kept perfectly conical, so that when

rotated slightly as you draw a line the point will stay sharp and will continue to give

you a fine but dense straight line, perfect for blueprinting.

If you do not wish to make the investment necessary for a mechanical pencil, get a

good drawing pencil, sharpen it with a knife, and keep the lead pointed by rubbing it

on a piece of fine sandpaper. Even if this will not give nearly as good a point as the

previously suggested equipment, it is often used.

Sometimes the pencil is sharpened to a chisel point. Although this gives a point that

will last longer, a little practice will be necessary to get a really satisfactory drawing,

as it is difficult to get the corners to intersect properly. Incidentally, it is better to let

the lines overlap a bit at the corners rather than to have them fail to meet.

Ink tracings are seldom used nowadays, as the pencil work which gives satisfactory

results and is quicker to do, can be changed more easily in case you find that

necessary. If you decide to make your tracings in ink, be sure to use black ink, as

blue or green ink is not opaque enough to make good prints.

The paper can be attached to the drawing board with inch-long pieces of masking

tape at the corners. This is much better than thumb tacks, as they are often in the

way and they damage the board.

A layer of firm hard paper on the board under the drawing will make a better

working surface than the bare board. It is possible to buy a regular board-covering

material, which is a tough paper with a hard smooth surface, but wrapping paper will

do if necessary. This is also attached to the board with masking tape. Avoid putting

the tape on so that it covers the left end of the board and gets in the way of the T-

square. The left end of the drawing board must be kept clean and free from all

irregularities, as these would throw the T-square out of line and result in a poor

drawing. A piece of smooth inlaid linoleum makes an excellent board cover and

drawing surface.

Drawing to scale is not difficult to understand. If 1/4" = 1' 0", take a rule and

measure off one inch; this will represent four feet of house, ten inches will represent

forty feet of house. A little figuring will show that 1/16" on the drawing equals 3" of

house. A wall is drawn 1/8" thick, to represent 6". A wall is only 53/8" thick, but it is

so near 6" that most draftsmen call it 6" and no harm results. It is a pleasant surprise

to find a room a fraction of an inch larger than shown, but if the walls are drawn too

narrow, you think you have more room than you actually do, and sometimes you try

to crowd too many things into a given space.

As ideas come to your mind, you can begin your sketching on the back of an

envelope or any scrap of paper you happen to have. As you refine your sketches,

ordinary writing paper may be used; a pad of graph paper with lines 1/4" or 1/8"

apart each way would be easy to work on as you can follow the lines on the graph

paper and will not need any other equipment than a pencil to work to scale. While

wrapping paper can be used for drawing, a lighter colored paper would be better.

The paper on which you work out your exact plan is called a "work sheet." This must

be large enough for the entire floor plan. Most print shops will sell white bond paper

in large-sized sheets, about 17" x 22", which will be very satisfactory for work sheets,

and cheaper than drawing paper.

To draw a plan efficiently, take a sheet of paper large enough for the plan and lay

out the entire building to scale (always use a scale of 1/4" = 1' 0") with pencil,

showing the walls, doors and windows, and dimensions. Erase and change on this

sheet as much as you wish—it is only a work sheet—until you get exactly the floor

plan you want. The only thing required of this sheet is that it be accurate when you

have finished the drawing; how messy it looks when you get through with it is not

important. The final tracing is what counts; it must be carefully done and complete.

When you are satisfied with the plan and are sure that everything is worked out

exactly the way you want it to be built, get a high quality tracing paper for the final

drawings. This can be bought in sheets, often 18" x 24" in size, or in rolls of 10 yards

in widths from 24" to 36". Get the best quality of tracing paper you can find. Place it

over the drawing and fasten it in place with masking tape. Then take your T-square

and triangles, clean them with a soft cloth or Kleenex, sharpen your drawing pencil,

and you are ready to make the final tracings. The tracing paper will be transparent

so you can see what is underneath. Trace everything you have on the work sheet—

walls, windows, doors, electric outlets, plumbing, and print neatly the words, living

room, bedroom, etc., in the appropriate places to indicate the use of each room. Put

the sizes on the doors and windows, and show the outside dimensions.

A little study of the plans shown in the following pages will help you to see what to

include on the tracing.

In making the final tracing, use a 2H or 3H drawing pencil, sharpen it to a conical

point, and rotate it slightly as you draw, especially on long lines, to keep it from

getting flat on one side, and press down hard. If you break the lead once in awhile,

that indicates that you are using about the right pressure. If you never break the

lead, it is a sure sign that you are not getting the best line that your pencil can give.

If your lines are not heavy enough, your blue prints will not come out clear and

plain enough to be understood. Keep the pencil very sharp and press hard to

make a clear dense line that will print well.

Do your tracing neatly, making a narrow line of uniform width, one that will look

neat and will show up on the final print. When the tracing is completed, you can

discard the work sheet and keep only the tracings.

The tracings can then be taken to the blue print shop and the prints made. You can

usually get either blue prints or black and white prints. The tracings should be

taken home and filed away carefully, as you may wish to made additional prints

before the job is completed. The tracings must not be taken to the job, as too

much handling, especially with hands that are working and sweaty will spoil their

neat appearance.

At least eight or ten sets of prints should be made for most jobs, as the city building

department will want two copies, the loan company two, and three or four will be

needed on the job. Plumbers, electricians, heating men all want copies of the plans,

besides what the carpenters and concrete men will need.

Don't let this scare you as it will all be explained and simplified in the next few

pages. You need make only one drawing at a time, and the floor plan is the most

difficult.

The following drawings are needed in a complete set of plans:

Floor plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"—show all doors and windows with sizes,

plumbing fixtures, electric lights, convenience outlets and switches, outlines of

all cupboards and built-ins.

Elevations, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"—all four sides of the house.

Foundation plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"—trace from the floor plan. Show

typical cross-sections of the foundation and piers or other special features.

Roof plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"—trace from floor plan, gives sizes of the

rafters, hip rafters, ridges, types of valley and roofing materials. Show cornice

details.

Ceiling framing plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"—may sometimes be combined with

roof plan.

Cross-section of the building, scale: 1/2" = 1' 0"— show also wall framing

and bracing.

Cupboards and special details of construction, scale: I" = 1' 0"—show

details of windows and doors.

Plot plan, scale: 1/16" = 1' 0"—show location of all buildings, sewer lines, water

pipes, gas meter, electric light source, telephone line, drives and sidewalks, slope of

ground, trees to be protected, existing fences or those to be built. Give complete

dimensions of the lot, and of the set-back of the house from the street, and the

distances of the house to the lot lines.

Keep the number of sheets to the minimum, but beginners will do well to draw on

smaller sheets than those used by professionals. If your drawings are about 18" x

24", they will be large enough to get an ordinary floor plan on one sheet, or two

elevations, with room enough for details without crowding. Make all sheets the same

size, with a border about a half inch wide all around the drawing, with perhaps an

extra inch on the left end to give room enough to staple the sheets all together to

make a set of plans.

With the smaller sheets, you can trace the foundation and roof plans from the floor

plan, and by turning the front and one end elevation over, you can trace off much of

the rear elevation and the other end; there will be differences, but the roof lines and

the heights of the windows and the floor levels will be similar.

The floor plan should be drawn first, but it is all right to begin on the front elevation,

as soon as you have a fair idea of the rooms that will be in the front of the house.

You will probably draw several sketches before you finally decide on the plan. If you

are more interested in the front appearance than in some other things, you may

draw this first and make the rooms fit your idea of a front picture. You will probably

find it necessary to change both the floor plan and the elevation several times before

you get them to match perfectly and to meet your needs, your ideas, and the ideas

of your family.

Begin by drawing small freehand sketches of both the floor plan and the front view,

until you get what looks like a workable idea, then transfer it to larger paper. It is

better to begin early with a full size drawing of 1/4" to the foot, as then you will get

used to drawing to that scale, and the parts of your drawing that work out right can

be traced directly on the final tracing paper.

A floor plan is not strictly a floor plan, but is a plan of a house cut horizontally

somewhere above the window sills, to show as much of the building as possible.

A cross-section is often very useful in showing how things are put together. Imagine

that you are taking a large saw and cutting through the part of the building you

wish to show in a cross-section. Then in your mind remove the part you have just

sawed off, take a square look at the part that is left, and draw the pieces that show

where the saw has cut. Draw the parts as they are in relation to each other. This will

give you a cross section.

A scale of 1/2" to the foot will give a cross section that is easy to draw and not too

difficult for the workmen to read.

If you want to economize on paper and printing costs, the elevations and roof plan

can be made to a scale of 1/8" = 1' 0", which makes a picture just half as large

in each direction as the regular drawing of 1/4" scale. These small drawings will

take just as long to make, but the blueprinting will not cost so much if you get

more drawings on one sheet.

Cupboards are often drawn so that 1" = 1'. This gives a drawing large enough

so that you can get all the necessary details in. If you want smaller drawings, a

scale of 1/2" = 1' will make very acceptable working details and is large enough to

show the details clearly.

Special moldings or unusual features, especially those that involve curves that are

not parts of circles, are often drawn full size, as it is very difficult to reproduce an

irregular curve if the size of the drawing is different from the size of the object. Or-

dinarily, it is better to avoid too many irregular or unusual things, as this will

make the house cost more and will not add much to the value.

Remember to make the floor plan to a scale of 1/4" to the foot as this is almost

universal practice in America. Avoid odd scales like 3/8" or 3/16" to the foot, as

they tend to confuse the builder when he is used to the regular 1/4" scale.

Orthographic Projection

Builders seldom use perspective drawings, that is, pictures drawn to show things as

they look, but use what is known as orthographic projection, which shows things

in their true relation to each other, looked at directly, and not from one side or the

other. If you look straight head on at the end of a plank and draw the end from

that position, you have an orthographic projection.

The sketches in this book will illustrate the difference between a perspective and

an orthographic projection. In perspective, the observer stays in one place, drawing

the complete thing as it looks from that one place, whereas the builder draws

every part as if he were looking with one part at a time directly in front of him.

Most of the illustrations in this book will be orthographic projections, as this will

give the builder the type of drawing he is used to and will often be clearer and

give more accurate information than the perspective drawings. It will be much

easier for you to make understandable drawings if you will take the trouble to

learn the simple orthographic method, which is much easier than the perspective,

and much better understood by builders. It is used in this book to give you

examples that you can use for models in your own planning.

The Specifications

When you have completed the plans and are satisfied that you have just exactly the

right house for you, the right size, the correct number of rooms, a workable

arrangement, and a pleasing exterior appearance, you need one more thing before

you start to build. That is the specifications. This important building document, not

so well known as the plans, is a group of typewritten sheets, made in several

carbon copies, usually bound in a folder, that sets forth in detail the exact house

to be built, giving the location, the street address, the name of the owner, and of

the person who prepared the plans. The plans are referred to by date or number, so

that they can easily be identified. The specifications are on an equal footing with the

plans, and are just as important.

The first part of the specifications is known as the general conditions. This gives in

detail the responsibilities of the contractor, his sub-contractors, and of the owner.

The owner generally is responsible for the fire insurance, while the contractor takes

care of the workmen's compensation insurance, unemployment benefits for the

workers, in fact, everything that has to do with the men he employs. The

specifications should be very clear on these points.

Be sure to state that the owner reserves the right to reject any or all bids without

incurring obligations of any kind.

The second part of the specifications gives a complete description of each part of

the work, just how each part of the house is to be built, with what materials, what

qualities of materials are to be used, how the work is to be done, and just what is

involved in the work of each trade, with a section on everything from excavation,

concrete work, through plumbing, wiring and heating, to the linoleum on the

kitchen floor and the paint on the bathroom ceiling. Make the specifications as

complete as possible.

If you plan to write your own, it would be a good idea to get a sample set of well-

written specifications that have been used to build other houses similar to yours and

use them as a guide in writing your own. This will give an idea of the scope and

form of specifications, the phraseology used, and the vocabulary of builders.

The main thing is to say exactly what you want to say. Give the make and catalog

numbers of plumbing fixtures, electrical equipment, heating plant, windows, and

any other items you have definitely selected. Sometimes it is wise to state after a

definite selection, "or approved equivalent," just in case the thing you have selected

is difficult to get, you and the contractor can select something else that is

equivalent, but you are the one to do the final approving.

Be sure to include everything from screens on the windows to the type of roofing on

the porch, and everything else you consider important.

A brief set of sample specifications follows on the next few pages.

A specialty contractor who is awarded the contract for some part of the building, as

plumbing, wiring, or plastering, is to be known as a SUB-CONTRACTOR. There may

be two classes of sub-contractors: those employed by the general contractor and

those employed by the owner.

The work in general shall include all labor, materials, tools, equipment, transportation,

temporary protection, and superintendence necessary to complete the entire

building, including everything shown on the plans, and/or mentioned in these

specifications, and everything necessary to make a complete and finished building

whether shown or specified or not so shown or specified.

The plans and specifications as previously mentioned, together with the agreement

signed at the time of awarding the contract, will be referred to collectively as the

contract.

GENERAL CONDITIONS:

a. The plans and specifications are intended to supplement each other and to

agree mutually. In case of direct conflict between the two, these specifications are to

be followed; but anything shown in the plans but not specified or specified but not

shown in the plans is to be installed complete in a satisfactory manner the same

as if both shown and specified. Anything that is necessary to the construction of

a substantial, durable, and weather-tight building, and anything that is locally

considered to be essential to good construction, is hereby included in the contract,

whether specified or shown in the plans or not so shown or specified.

b. The OWNER reserves the right to reject any or all bids without incurring

any obligations whatsoever.

c. The CONTRACTOR will take full responsibility for all labor relations, and will

comply with all pertinent Government regulations, city, state, or national, regarding

the employment of labor and working conditions. The CONTRACTOR shall carry

insurance that will protect the owner from claims under Workmen's Compensation

Acts, or claims arising from injury to persons, animals, or things, or from any activity

of the contractor, his employees or his agents in connection with the construction of

this building.

d. The CONTRACTOR assumes full responsibility for the construction of the

building, and no claim may be made against the OWNER because of injury or

damage to adjacent property, or other claims arising out of the activities of the

contractor, his employees, or agents. The CONTRACTOR will save the OWNER

harmless from all legal entanglements and financial claims arising from the entire

work of the construction.

e. The CONTRACTOR will pay all labor promptly, keeping a signed payroll to

assure the OWNER that all labor is being paid regularly. He will also pay for all

materials before the tenth of the month following their purchase, and will furnish

receipted vouchers to show that previously purchased materials are paid for, before

expecting additional payments under this contract.

f. The CONTRACTOR will do all in his power to prevent liens from being filed

against this property, but if a lien is filed, the CONTRACTOR will see that it is

removed at once.

g. The CONTRACTOR may not sub-let or sub-contract the principal parts of this

building without the written consent of the owner, but may sub-contract such

specialties as tile work, plumbing, electric wiring, plastering, sheet-metal work, etc.

h. The OWNER reserves the right to let additional contracts in connection with

the construction of the building.

i. The CONTRACTOR and the SUB-CONTRACTORS must so coordinate their

work that each part is done at the most convenient time in relation to the work of

others, and each one is responsible for the protection of the work previously done

by others, so that his work does not damage what has already been done.

j. The CONTRACTOR is entirely responsible for the quality and protection of the

work done by his SUB-CONTRACTORS, so that the building can be turned over to

The OWNER in first class condition.

k. Changes, additions, or omissions in regard to this work may not be made

except upon the written signed request or authorization of the OWNER, and only

after a price has been mutually agreed upon in writing for such deviation from the

contract documents. Changes or extras will not be allowed or paid for unless

definitely ordered in writing and signed by the owner.

l. The CONTRACTOR shall provide such latrines or toilets as are necessary for his

employees. No unsanitary conditions in or around the premises will be tolerated.

m. The CONTRACTOR is permitted to construct on the building site such shops,

storehouses, sheds, etc., as are necessary to carry on the work successfully and

efficiently, provided they are located as directed by the owner, and further provided

that the contractor agrees to remove all such temporary work from the premises

before the building is accepted by the owner.

n. The CONTRACTOR will carry forward the work as rapidly as is consistent with

efficiency and with quality construction. The building must be completed before 196,

otherwise the CONTRACTOR will be charged dollars per day (to compensate the

owner for the extra rent and inconvenience caused him by not being able to occupy

his building) from the above date until the building is completed and turned over to

the owner.

o. In the event prices of labor and/or materials should increase, the

CONTRACTOR may not ask for additional payment on this account.

p. The OWNER may require the contractor to remove from the premises any

workman found to be incompetent, careless, dishonest, incompatible, or who fails to

observe the sanitary regulations.

q. Any materials delivered to the site and condemned by the owner or his

authorized agent must be immediately removed from the premises.

r. Any work done or material placed that is unsatisfactory to the owner or his

agent must be removed and replaced with satisfactory workmanship and material.

s. All work requiring special skills must be done by experienced craftsmen in a

skillful and workmanlike manner; substantial, true, straight, level, and plumb,

entirely satisfactory to the owner or his representative.

t. All work must be guaranteed for a period of one year from the date of the

completion of the building.

u. The OWNER will carry fire insurance on the building from the time the frame

is up until the completion, payable to the OWNER and the CONTRACTOR as their

interests may appear. The owner's interest will be interpreted as the amount the

owner has paid the contractor plus any amount he has paid for materials or labor

outside the contract. The contractor's interest will be the amount he has invested in

the building less any payments he has received.

v. The CONTRACTOR will take measures that will safeguard the trees and shrubs

growing at the site that he and the owner mutually agree will be left on the site.

The contractor will remove at his own expense any trees that need to be removed.

w. The CONTRACTOR will provide such equipment as is necessary to the efficient

construction of the building.

x. The OWNER may require that the CONTRACTOR furnish a performance bond

in the full amount of the contract price. The OWNER will pay for such bond if it is

required.

y. When the building is completed the CONTRACTOR will clean up the premises,

removing all surplus materials and equipment, and temporary structures, will leave

the lot approximately graded, will wax the floors and wash the windows, remove

surplus and excess paint, and will leave the building entirely ready for immediate

occupancy.

z. The OWNER will do the final grading of the lot and will take care of the

landscaping and the lawn.

EXCAVATION:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the excavation specifications.

The CONTRACTOR shall clear the actual building site of all plants, rocks, grass

and debris, as directed by the OWNER.

Excavation for the foundations must be made to the full size, shape, and

depth shown on plans, and carried down to solid, undisturbed earth. No

filling is permitted in the bottom of the excavations. Excavation must not

contain water when the concrete is placed, although the earth should be

damp.

Any fill soil will be placed in layers, and each layer rolled with a heavy

mechanical roller. This contractor will furnish and transport all required fill.

Before submitting his bid, each contractor should visit the site and make his

own estimate of the facilities and difficulties to be encountered, and the

amount of cut and fill necessary to complete the work according to the

plans.

CONCRETE WORK:

The concrete contractor shall furnish all materials and labor necessary to

complete all concrete work, footings, foundations, floors, walks, and drives

shown on plans, and all portions of the work which logically form a part of

the concrete work. Floors are to be smooth and level, in first class condition.

Outside concrete is to slope properly to drain. All floors, walks, patios, and

drives are to be reinforced with 6" x 6" x 10/10 gauge wire mesh.

Continuous membrane waterproofing is to be placed under all floors of the

building, but not under the outdoor concrete.

All concrete shall be transit mix, of a quality using at least five sacks of cement

per cubic yard. All concrete shall be placed within one hour of the time water

is first added to the mixture. Concrete shall be vibrated or spaded into the

forms to make a solid homogeneous mass free from voids or porous places.

If it is found advisable to mix the concrete at the building site, a power-

driven machine mixer shall be used. After all the ingredients have been

placed in the machine, mixing shall be continued for at least two minutes, and

longer mixing may be required if necessary to assure a uniform and

thorough mixing of the materials.

The concrete mixture shall consist of the following ingredients: one part

approved Portland cement, 2^ parts clean, sharp sand, and 3V& to 4 parts

clean gravel or crushed rock. Not more than seven gallons of water shall be

used per sack of cement. The same quality of concrete work is expected

when mixing at the site as if ready-mixed concrete is used.

Concrete must be kept continuously damp for two weeks after placing to

assure a proper setting of the material.

The concrete contractor is to build his own forms.

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the concrete specifications.

MASONRY:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the masonry specifications.

The masonry contractor shall furnish all labor and materials to complete the

fireplace as shown on the plans, including brick, tile, flue lining,

reinforcement, dome damper, clean out doors and ash trap, andirons and

whatever else is necessary to complete the fireplace and flue for the furnace.

Mortar shall be mixed as follows: one part Portland cement, three parts clean

sharp sand, and one-sixth part lime putty or fire clay; all shall be properly

mixed and used within two hours of the first mixing. Mortar that has partially

set shall not be remixed and used.

All joints shall be well filled with mortar and struck or otherwise finished as

directed by the owner. The surface of the work shall be kept clean and free

from mortar.

CARPENTRY:

Carpentry includes the furnishing of all labor and materials, and equipment necessary

to complete the portions of the building to be constructed of wood.

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the carpentry specifications.

All labor is to be first class, with all joints well fitted and all parts of the

building securely fastened and nailed in place.

Such scaffolding as is necessary must be erected in a substantial manner to

prevent injury to workmen or the building. The owner must be given free

access to the building at all times, and if work for the building is being

carried on in other places, he must be given opportunity to inspect such

work at any reasonable time he may desire to do so.

Sills resting on concrete shall be of redwood, of foundation grade, or

treated lumber suited for this use, and all lumber coming in contact with

concrete or masonry shall be of similar quality.

Studding, plates, and blocking shall be of standard grade or better Douglas

fir or long leaf yellow pine; joists and girders, and rafters shall be of

construction grade. Roof sheathing shall be of utility or better grade.

The top plates must be doubled, and alternately lapped at the intersections.

Joints in the upper plates shall be staggered at least four feet. Angles where

stud walls or partitions meet shall be so framed that no lath can extend from

one room to another. All walls and partitions are to be thoroughly braced

either with let-in 1" x 6" braces, nailed with four 8d nails at each bearing, or

with pieces of 2" x 4" cut in between the studs at the proper angle, and

well and thoroughly spiked in place.

Framing shall be doubled around all openings in the best approved manner.

MILLWORK AND FINISH CARPENTRY:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of these specifications.

All cabinets shall be made to fit the space provided for them; dimensions

shall be taken from the rooms themselves rather than from the plans to

allow for slight discrepancies of an inch or so that the actual rooms may

deviate from the plans.

All cabinets shall be shop made or mill made, with mortise and tenon or

doweled joints, properly glued and fitted to insure first class and durable

cabinets. All exposed surfaces to be machine sanded, and again hand

sanded after installation. Kitchen cabinets are to be of selected birch or

maple on all exposed surfaces; all other cabinets are to be of pine.

Drawers are to run on hardwood runners. All drawers to be fully guided and

supported to slide freely.

All working surfaces except as noted otherwise are to be of formica, turned

up 6" at the back and turned down 1%" at the front, to make a neat formed

job without sharp angles.

Doors enclosing the space under the sink are to be ventilated.

HARDWARE:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the hardware specifications.

All bolts, anchors, tie straps, nails, and hardware for sliding doors are included

in the material to be furnished by the contractor.

An allowance of two hundred dollars ($200.00) is to be made in the contract

price for the finish hardware. This includes the locks for the doors, door

closers, hinges, pulls, catches, hinges for the cabinet work, door stops, knocker

for front door, or other hardware items selected by the owner. If these items

cost more than the above $200.00 the owner will pay the difference, but if

the net cost to the contractor is less than the above amount, the owner

will be credited with the difference.

All other hardware not listed above is to be furnished by the contractor.

DOORS:

All doors are to be of solid core birch veneer flush type, well and

skillfully fitted and placed. The owner may select other types of

wood, with corresponding adjustments of the price. Exterior doors

to be screened.

All doors need to be crime-proof too. You must use gadgets that

can secure doors from within. This can be achieved through

traditional lock and key systems and electronic lock systems.

WINDOWS:

Windows are to be of aluminum frame, horizontal sliding type, fitted

with nylon rollers, and glazed with "B" or better flat-drawn double

strength glass. All windows must operate freely, and be so fitted as

to exclude dust and wind. The bathroom windows are to be glazed

with approved obscure glass.

All windows that open are to be fitted with approved screens, easily

detachable for window washing. Shade screens are to be furnished

for the two windows facing the east.

Where the windows adjoin masonry or stucco, suitable caulking

compound is to be placed to make an absolutely water-tight job.

Where exposed, heads of windows are to be flashed with rustproof

flashing.

ELECTRIC WIRING AND LIGHTING:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the wiring specifications.

All wiring is to be done in strict accordance with the codes that apply

and all must operate perfectly before being acceptable to the owner.

All electrical work is to be as shown on plans, installed in a skillful and

workmanlike manner, complete in every way.

Service wires are to be No. 1 size. Note that No. 6 wires are to be run

to the oven and the stove top. Service switch is to be 100 amperes in

size, fitted with approved circuit breakers. Not more than six double

convenience outlets to one 20 ampere circuit breaker, and not more than

ten lights to one 15 ampere circuit breaker.

Ivory-colored switches, plates, and duplex outlets are to be furnished.

The wiring contract includes all labor and material necessary to a

completed job, and includes installing the light fixtures.

An allowance of two hundred dollars ($200.00) is to be made in the

contract for the lighting fixtures. The owner will select the fixtures and

if the cost is less than the above sum, he will be credited with the

difference; but if the cost is more, the owner will pay any excess over

the two-hundred-dollar allowance. The contractor is to install these

fixtures without an additional charge.

PLUMBING:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the plumbing

specifications.

All plumbing shall be done in strict accordance with all pertinent laws,

ordinances, codes, and regulations that apply to this work The

plumbing contractor shall be responsible for all damage to any part of

the building caused by his work, or as a result of leaks, or breaks in the

pipes, or fixtures, furnished and installed by him for a period of one

year after completion of his work.

All plumbing fixtures are to be first quality "Crane," "Standard," or

approved equivalent.

All pipes shall be thoroughly flushed out before fixtures and faucets

are attached to them. The ends of all pipes are to be reamed.

The following fixtures and equipment are included in the plumbing

contract, all installed complete and in first class operating condition:

Note: These will vary from one house to another; include only those

that you will want in your house.

1 double sink 20" x 38", basket strainers, mixing faucet, acid resisting.

1 Waste King or approved equivalent garbage disposal unit.

single laundry tray, and rough in for automatic washer.

1water closets (specify type desired) with Olsonite or approved

equivalent white seats.

2 cast iron lavatories, Cat. No

1—51/2 cast iron bath tub, complete with shower, mixing valves and

curtain rod. Owner to furnish shower curtain.

1—40-gallon gas-fired water heater installed complete with flue. Gas

line to furnace; furnace to be installed by heating contractor.

Water supply to house using 1" line from meter to house valve,

reducing to 3/4" pipe as it enters house.

4—3/4" hose bibbs to be placed as directed by owner.

Connection to the sewer with 4" burned clay glazed tile with proper

fittings and clean out.

Provide brass clean-outs at the end of every line and major change of

direction of drainage pipe.

All plumbing must be installed complete in first-class working order to

the entire satisfaction of the owner.

ROOFING:

All roofs are to be covered with first quality, vertical grain red cedar

shingles, of the thickness known as 5/2. Shingles are to be exposed

41/2" to the weather, joints staggered at least 11/2"; and well and

properly nailed in place with galvanized nails.

Flashing is to be of 26 gauge galvanized iron, 18" wide in the valleys.

Roof must be absolutely weather tight and guaranteed for a period of

one year from the date of completion of the building.

As an alternate, contractor is requested to give a figure as to the cost of

rigid asbestos shingles put on with copper nails, and using copper

flashing in valleys and around openings.

As an additional alternate, give figure on slate roof, nailed and flashed

as suggested above for asbestos shingles.

Gutters shall be placed on the eaves with downspouts as shown on

plans, all of 26 gauge galvanized iron. Gutter connections shall be

waterproof, and shall have adequate slope to insure proper drainage

to the downspouts.

All roof work shall be done by experienced men using special care to

insure a weather tight roof.

HEATING:

The heating system must be adequate to heat the building with a

temperature difference of eighty degrees between the inside

temperature and the outside temperature, and must be guaranteed to do

this. Natural gas will be used as the fuel which will be brought to the

site of the furnace by the plumber, but the heating contractor will

make the connections. Hot air is to be circulated in galvanized ducts,

26-gauge, to each room in the house. Registers are to be of the louvre

type that can be closed when the heat is not desired in certain rooms.

Squirrel cage type fans are to be used to distribute the heat through

the ducts.

As an additional and separate figure, heating contractor is to submit a

bid on a refrigeration type cooling system that will keep the house

comfortable in the hottest summer weather.

INSULATION:

Rock wool insulation 3" thick is to be placed in all exterior walls of the

house, and over the entire ceiling area.

Aluminum foil backed by strong paper of a quality equal to "Sisalation"

is to be securely fastened to the underside of the rafters over the

entire roof area, to reflect the heat. Adequate and properly screened

vents are to be placed in the roof or gables to assure a good

ventilation of the attic.

PLASTERING AND STUCCO:

All exterior walls, except where shown otherwise, are to be covered

with a good quality stucco, over 15 lb. felt and 11/2" x 17 gauge wire

mesh. Stucco is to be of three coats, total thickness not less than one

inch, of a waterproof type, properly and skillfully placed. Stucco is to be

brought to a true and even surface. The finish coat is to be of a color

and texture selected by the owner from samples furnished by the

contractor. Stucco must be so formed that water will drip from the

outer edge of the stucco over the windows and will not run down the

glass. Stucco is to be complete to a point three inches below the

finished grade.

Lathing on interior walls is to be rock lath or grip lath well nailed in

place. All interior angles are to be fitted with cornerite or 4"" strips of

metal lath carefully bent and fitted into the corners. All exterior angles

are to be fitted with a metal corner bead.

Plaster is to be hardwall plaster mixed with perlite or other approved

lightweight aggregate, plus a small amount of sand to make a hard

and durable plaster. All walls are to be rodded to a true and even

surface.

Ceilings are to be plastered with 1" of acoustical plaster.

Plaster around bathtub and near lavatory must be of cement over

metal lath so as to make a proper base for ceramic tile.

Plasterer must take care not to get plaster on brick work, stone work,

and concrete porches. Plaster that gets on windows and door frames

must be promptly cleaned up and washed off to leave all surfaces in

good clean condition. Plasterer must clean plaster out of the electrical

boxes.

Plasterer is to furnish samples of the color and texture suggested for

the owner to select what he wants in each room.

Plaster in the kitchen and bathroom is to be troweled smooth in

perfect condition for painting.

PAINTING:

All exterior woodwork is to be given three coats of first quality outside

paint, of a color selected by the owner.

Walls in the kitchen and bathrooms are to be given a sealer coat (not

glue size), two coats of flat undercoat, and a coat of semi-gloss

enamel, all of first quality. If the surface is not perfect, the owner may

require an additional coat of semi-gloss enamel. Ceilings are to be

painted the same as the walls, except that the owner may select a

lighter color.

Walls and ceilings in the living room, hallways and bedrooms are to be

given two coats of a rubber base paint, as Kemtone or similar approved

equivalent.

All hardwood woodwork, kitchen cabinets, etc., are to be given two

coats of lacquer sanding sealer, well sanded and then given four coats

first quality clear lacquer, then rubbed to a smooth surface.

FLOORS:

Floors are to be of select quality white oak, well and carefully laid,

properly nailed, and sanded by machine to a true and even surface.

Oak floors are to be finished with a penetrating type sealer in three

coats, and buffed by machine to a smooth surface, and waxed by

machine.

Floors in the kitchen and bathrooms are to be of first quality inlaid

linoleum, of a quality equal to Armstrong's best grade. Linoleum shall

be cemented in place; a plywood sub-floor is to be used and felt pasted

to the plywood before the linoleum is applied. Floor in the utility room

is to be the same as the floor in the kitchen.

Porches are to be floored with patio grade quarry tile, of a color

selected by the owner.

This material has been reproduced by Omega Security Solutions to provide new

homeowners with helpful insights. If you want to ensure your family’s safety at

home, contact professionals in security solutions for help.