Dolls House

Routing Techniques forDDOOLLLLSS HHOOUUSSEE MMOOUULLDDIINNGGSS

A 32 page guide to producing dolls house and miniature mouldings

BO

OK

/DH

1

BOOKLET

IN A SERIES

One of the most pleasurable aspects tomaking your own dolls house is thefitting of the mouldings in each room.They must be machined to the correctproportions and from the right period tobe accurate. Although 1/12th scale pre-machined mouldings can be purchasedfrom Dolls House shops and hobbyshops, there are many advantages inactually producing them yourself.

Often it is difficult when purchasingmouldings to obtain uniformity as theycan differ from batch to batch. Theshapes of the moulds can be differentand the overall dimensions of thepurchased mouldings can be out ofproportion or even oversize.The price of these pre-machinedmouldings can also prove to be quiteexpensive, especially when buyingskirting and cornice mouldings as longlengths are usually required.

All the proportions of 1/12th scalemouldings must be an accurate scaleddown version of those found in full sizebuilding joinery. The ideal means of obtaining the correctsize moulding is, therefore to make yourown. There is of course also a sense ofachievement from machining the mouldsyourself from start to finish and, addedto this, your dolls house project can becompleted to your own uniquespecification.

INTRODUCTION11

2trend routing technology

The dolls house cutters in the set are alltungsten carbide tipped. Tungstencarbide is a hard, wear-resistant metalthat gives long cutting edge life and willgive a clean cut on the timbers used inscale moulding manufacture.

Nine of the cutters in the set arespecifically designed to carry out themaking of mouldings. The three straightcutters can be used for rebating,grooving and slotting these mouldings.

They can also be used for theconstruction of other parts of the dollshouse such as the wall and roofingcomponents.

The moulding cutters allow the dollshouse maker and miniaturist to runwhatever length of moulding is required.If a small length of mould is kept on file,the router can be set against the sample,to enable further lengths to be machinedto replicate the original. These laterlengths of mould will be the same as theearlier lengths, so ensuring uniformity.

Using standard hand routers one canmachine virtually all types of scalemoulds, including stair handrails,skirting, cornice, coves, architraves,capping, and stair tread nosings. Theycan be used for different styles, includingVictorian and Georgian periods. By usingcertain parts of the shapes in conjunctionwith others, unique moulds can beachieved. Numerous variations of

moulding, even more than those shownin this booklet, can be produced.The timber used for the mouldings is inimperial sizes. The chart below can beused to convert them to metricequivalents.

ABOUT THE 12 PIECE SET

Imperial Metric

1/16 1.6mm5/64 2.0mm3/32 2.4mm7/64 2.8mm1/8 3.2mm9/64 3.6mm5/32 4.0mm11/64 4.4mm3/16 4.8mm13/64 5.2mm7/32 5.5mm15/64 6.0mm1/4 6.35mm5/16 8.0mm3/8 9.5mm7/16 11.0mm1/2 12.7mm9/16 14.3mm5/8 15.9mm

11/16 17.5mm3/4 19.1mm

3

What else do you need?The routerThe dolls house cutters have either 1/4(6.35mm) diameter shanks or 8mmshank diameters and can be fitted to lightduty routers, such as the BoschPOF500A and Black & Decker BD780. Avariable speed facility on the router is notnecessary for producing dolls housemouldings. The small diameters of thecutters allow spindle speeds up to27,000 RPM to be used.

More professional routers such as theTrend T5 can also be used. These havethe benefit of more power, and theavailability of a fine height adjuster. The most important factor is that ofpower. Your router must have a powerrating of at least 500 watts to achieve thebest results. Small handheld types ofgrinders or drilling units such as theDremel or Minicraft are not suitablefor use with this set.

The tableBecause of the extreme accuracy thatmust be achieved and the small nature ofthe timber being machined, the routermust be used fitted inverted into a routertable. The dolls house router cutters areunguided (i.e. they are not fitted with aguide bearing) and therefore the materialmust be guided to engage the cutter by astraight line guide or back fence. Otheradditional guiding mechanisms whichwill be described later, may also be usedto machine the timber accurately andsafely.

ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS

trend routing technology


To actually cut the moulds the routermust be fitted inverted in a routertable. Proprietary tables are readilyavailable, but a home-made table can beconstructed to suit your ownrequirements.

CRAFTSMANROUTER TABLEThe Trend Craftsman Router Tableis a general purpose router table whichcan be fitted with the necessary home-made adaptations for machining dollshouse mouldings.It should be fitted with a false table top sothat the aperture through which the cutterprojects, will be as small as possible. By fitting a false top, guards and other

devices can be easily screwed to it. Thefalse top can be constructed from 6 or9mm MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard)or plywood, and should be slightly largerthan the alloy table itself.The false top should be drilled out tomatch the fixing holes in the Craftsmantable surface. The false top can bescrewed to or held by battens onto thealloy table top of the table. The back fence can also be used if a falsecheek is fitted to it. This cheek will needa small aperture cut into it. The falsecheek can again be constructed fromMDF and can be screwed or clamped tothe existing back fence.

A Home-made router table can bemade very simply from MDF or other flatstable material.

Pressure down

Timber feed direction

Back fence

Pressuresideways

Side fence

Timber

Side fence

Timber feed direction

Cutter rotation

Side Pressure

Side view

End view

Plan view

THE ROUTERTABLE22


A home-made dolls house router table issimple to make, even with only limitedwoodworking skills. It is made of easilyavailable MDF or from plywood and usesfittings from the Trend range of routingjig accessories. (Please see the currentTrend Routing Catalogue).

The low fence fitted to the table is againcut from MDF and slotted to allowadjustment of the cutting width. It isfitted with a dust extraction hood (TrendPart No. RR72). This also acts as a backguard to prevent accidental contact withthe cutter. We stronglyrecommended that thisor a similar guardis fitted.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Cut the 4 leg pieces to size from15mm thick MDF and glue each pairtogether with PVA adhesive. Whendry, plane both to the same size andsquare, and chamfer the verticaledges.

2. Cut the base from 15mm MDF andplane the edges square.

3. Cut the Table top from 12mm MDFand square the edges.

4. Mark the centre point of the top andneatly drill a 25mm diameter hole.

5. Using a paper template (or ifpossible use the removable facingfrom the base of the router), markthe position of any suitable fixingholes in the router baseplate,centred around the 25mm hole.

ROUTER TABLE CONSTRUCTION

5

6. Drill and counterbore holes to takesuitable fixing bolts.

7. Drill and counter sink the fixingholes to take the No.10 x 1 1/4chipboard screws.

8. Cut the under rail from 15mm MDF.

9. Assemble the table by screwingand gluing each joint andchecking that all is square beforeleaving to dry.

10. Cut the table fence from 12mmMDF and trim the edges square.

11. Cut the two slots using a 1/4diameter straight cutter andsetting the routers side-fence torun against each end of the MDF in turn. A 1/4 diameter straight cutter can be obtained from the Trend Routing Catalogue or is available in the Set SS3. Please see inside the back cover of this booklet.

12. Position the fence on the tableand mark the centre of the lobeknob holes.

13. Drill the appropriate diameterholes through the top and insertthe pronged tee-nuts.

14. Mark and cut the semi-circularcutter recess along the fence edgeto match with the hole throughthe top.

15. Screw the guard/dust extractionport to the top face of the fence.

6

7 trend routing technology

Materials Cutting List (all in mm)

Description Size Qty

Base board ......................300 x 475 x 15 1

Legs ................................220 X 275 x 15 4

Top ..................................300 x 500 x 12 1

Fence...............................100 x 500 x 12 1

Under rail ........................38 x 335 x 15 1

Guard/dust spout ............(Trend no RR72) 1

Pronged Tee-nuts ............M6 2

Lobe Knobs .....................M6 2

Washers ..........................6mm 2

Chipboard screws............No.10 x 1 1/4 12

Special NotesTable sizeThe table surface area can be made toany suitable size, but should be largeenough to allow ease of operation.

Central apertureThe aperture through which the cutterwill protrude should be as small aspossible. The hole should only be about3mm larger than the tool diameter. Inthe case of the home-made table, thehole is made to suit the largest dollshouse cutter in the set, and shouldtherefore be about 25mm in diameter. Afalse table fitted to the top of the machinetable with a smaller diameter hole canalways be fittedwhen using thesmaller diameter cutters.

Table ThicknessThe recommended thickness of themachine table is 12mm. This thin tabletop allows maximum projectionof the tool above the table. The 12mmtable top can be reinforced with astretcher underneath to preventsag. As only light routers areneeded for dolls house work theirweight is not too great to allow a thintop to be used. If a heavier router is tobe used, then the table will need to bethicker, i.e. 18mm MDF or other suitablematerial. The table will then need to havea thinner plate recessed into it fromwhich the machine can be secured. This thinner plate can be made from

metal. The metal insert plate that fits into theCraftsman Router Table is available as an accessory and can be used for thispurpose. The plate is available withdifferent pre-drilled countersunk holes forthe most popular makes of router.Please refer to the latest TrendRouting Catalogue.

Gap min. 1.5mm

Table

Aperture

Gap min. 1.5mm



Fitting the router Two counter-bored holes are used forthis purpose. These holes are oversize,so that the pan head machine screws thatthread into the base of the router, can bemoved in the counter-bored holes toallow exact centring. For instance, theTrend T5 has two M6 threaded holed inits base (which are used to secure to jigsetc.) and therefore the counter-boredhole should be 12.7mm (1/2) indiameter and the through hole should be6.35mm (1/4) to 7mm in diameter.

Back fence The back fence must be planed squareand true. The fence has two slots routedinto it, enabling it to be secured to thetable top. The table top has two prongedtee nuts fitted to its underside. Thesepronged tee nuts have an internal threadsize of M6, which is the same as thethreads on most knobs on routers forfixing of the side fence and guide rails.These now redundant knobs can be usedto secure the back fence to the table.The slots on the back fence have to berebated to allow the knobs to tightenproperly in the tee-nuts.

Back fence apertureThis allows the cutter to project throughthe back fence. This aperture must notbe too wide, (here suggested of equaldiameter to the hole in the table). This isto allow all parts of the tooling to beused, enabling different moulds to bemachined.

Counter-bored holesallow exact alignment


With the machined component having amaximum height of 5/8 it is thereforenecessary to have a back fence of 12mmMDF. The fence could be fitted on theback edge with a higher batten for thickerwork, such as higher skirtings etc. Thishigh batten will also need an aperturemachined in it to accept the cutter. Thiswould make the fence reversible.Depending on which size of componentis being machined, the higher fence canbe used for thick stock and the thin fencefor narrow stock.

Dust ExtractionThe back fence can be fitted with a dustspout so that a dust extractor can befitted. This shroud can be taken from aspare proprietary back fence orpurchased separately. The shroud notonly allows extraction of the wood wastebut also protects the back of the cutter.Two holes in the face of the shroud alsoallow a user-made chip deflector to befitted. It is always advisable that a dustextractor is used when routing to removethe wood chips and dust at source. Ahose can be attached at one end to thedust extractor and the other end can befitted into a dust spout fitted to the back-fence of the table.

Pressure GuardsThe back fence and machine table givethe component being machined a goodsupporting area, but top and sidepressures are also necessary to stop thematerial lifting or being pushed awayfrom the cutter. These pressure guardswill also make it safer to rout thematerial, as the operators hands are keptwell away from the rotating tool.Various pressure fences can be used,these include spring loaded blocks, fingerpressures (shown above) and concertinatype pressure guards. When possible itis advisable to use thin material for thepressure guards for dolls housemouldings such as 12mm MDF. A rebatemay need to be cut on the edge thatwould abut the component, to allowaccess with a push stick.

Feed

10


Push Stick & Push Block A push stick and push block are alsoadvisable to help guide the material beingmoulded. The push stick should be atleast 350mm long and can have a birds-mouth shape cut-out on one end. Thisend should also be cut with a taper tomake the birds mouth narrower to allowgreater access between the pressureguards. The push stick is used on verysmall components to push thecomponent past the cutter and thereforeto keep the operators hands well awayfrom the cutter.A push block is a device which also canbe used to hold small components toensure stability and safety when routing.

A cross cutting jig is used to rout acrossthe grain. The jig has a batten on it, thatis square to one edge, and this acts as asupport when cutting across the ends ofnarrow components.

No-Volt Release SwitchThe router table should be fitted with aNo-Volt Release Switch (NVRS) this canbe secured to the leg or workboard toprovide easy access to the on/offbuttons. Should the power supply to therouter be turned off at source, the routerwill not re-start until the green button ispressed. This NVRS is available as anaccessory, Trend ref. E35146 (230V).

Fine Height AdjusterThe routers used should ideally have afine height adjuster fitted (for Elu MOF96,Trend ref. E40906) which would fit inplace of the depth stop flag on the router.This fine adjuster allows the router cutterto be set at the correct height for themould. By turning the fine heightadjuster one way or the other the cutterwill be raised or lowered. A fine heightadjuster is essential for any router that isused inverted in a table.


Choice of TimbersThe choice of timbers should be ideally ahardwood which is straight, closegrained and does not tear whenmachined. Suitable timbers includeLime, Brazilian Mahogany, Obeche,Jellutong and Ramin. Beech can also beused but when machined to small sizesthe surface can give a pitted effect.

Preparing the timberThe easiest way to mould the timber is tofirst plane it with square sides by hand ormachine. The timber should be machinedin thickness to suit the particular type ofmoulding required, i.e. 5/8 or 3/4 forthe height of skirting, 3/16 for architraveheight and so on. The timber should bekept as wide as possible to give goodsupport when machining.

Moulding the timberThe mould can then be routed on oneedge only, usually the full mould iscreated in one pass, as it is not normallynecessary to take many shallow passesdue to the very small nature of the cut. Ifthe moulded edge has feathered slightly(this is dependent on the timber used)the mould can be passed through thecutter again. The correct sequence is needed to ensure a good mould isobtained. There are four differentmethods for machining mouldings. These are as follows:

DH

/08

ROUTINGTECHNIQUES33

Method 1The moulding is first machined onto theedge of a wide piece of timber. Themoulded edge is then parted from thetimber on a small diameter saw bench. The sawn edge on the moulding shouldbe quite clean providing a fine toothparting blade is used. The edge can thenbe planed true and the operation repeateduntil the timber is too narrow to holdproperly. This method ensures that thetimber is supported properly on all cutsand that it is less lightly to twist whilstrouting.

Side pressure

Top pressure

Split after mould

12


Method 2The timber is first parted to the correctthickness on a saw bench. Each strip isthen moulded.The timber must be planed to the correctheight for the mould required beforeparting. The thin stock must then becleaned up. Several lengths of stock canbe parted in one session. Due to thevery thin nature of the material the sidepressure fence must be set veryaccurately when moulding so as to

prevent material tilt. Flexing andfracturing of the strip could also occur,so ensure a slow constant feed rate ismaintained.

Method 3As method 2, but square or rectangularprepared sectioned timber is purchasedalready to size. These are then moulded.

Method 4An alternative method to 2 and 3 is to fixthe thin sections of timber to a largerpiece of material, such as a straightsection of MDF. This can be achievedusing double-sided tape, which willensure the moulded section can beremoved afterwards. This method isespecially useful for very awkward strips,which would otherwise twist or vibratewhen being routed.

DH

/08

DH

/08

Top pressure

Part before mould

Side pressure

Straight section of MDF

13


Routing procedure

1. The height of the cutter is set sothat the relevant parts of the toolthat create the mould required arecorrect.

2. Set the back-fence to ensure thecorrect depth of mould into thetimber will result.

3. Adjust the top pressure guard untilit touches the top of the blankmaterial to be cut.

4. Clamp in position. Repeat for theside pressure guard.

5. Switch the router on and test themould on a waste piece of timber.

6. When routing use the push stick tohelp move the blank materialtowards the cutter. Keep the feedrate constant.

7. Mould the timber along its wholelength. When the moulding iscomplete switch off the router.

Square sectioned mouldsSome mouldings such as handrails mustbe cut with the timber having beenmachined to its finished size prior to itsmoulding i.e. 1/4 square for a handrail.A moulding of this size is more difficultto machine due to its very small nature,which can tend to twist, and vibrate. Byusing side pressure guards and a saddle(a material support made from an offcut)on the outfeed side of the machine table,these difficulties can be overcome.

Setting up for skirtingboardsSkirting boards are the easiest moulds torout. The simplest method is to cut themould on a wider piece of timber andthen part it afterwards. The timber isprepared to the correct thickness such as3/4 high for tall skirting or 5/8 forsmaller skirting. Pre-parting the timberand cutting the mould on the thin stripcan also be done in the same way butextra time and care will be needed to

ensure that the thin strip does not flex ortilt whilst the mould is cut.

ArchitraveThe simplest method is to cut the mouldon a wider piece of timber and then partit afterwards. The timber is prepared tothe correct thickness for architrave suchas 1/4.

HandrailsFor handrails the timber is prepared tothe correct dimension such as 5/16 x1/4. Machine the first edge, and thenturn the material, so that the mould canbe repeated on the opposite side. Once the edge moulds are complete thegroove on the underside of the handrailto accept the stair spindles (or balusters)can be routed. Fit the 1/8 diameter two flute cutter Ref.DH/03 into the table. Set the height ofthe tool to the depth of cut required.Reset the back fence so that the grooveis central to the hand rail. Set the topand side pressures as normal, rout thegroove in two passes, to remove anywood chips caught in the groove and togive a cleaner cut.

Furniture mouldsFor panels, table tops and shelves ofcabinets etc, the timber is prepared tothe correct thickness and dimension. Setthe cutter height and back fence to thecorrect position. The panels are routedacross the grain (short grain) first, thenthe mould is routed along the grain. If adeeper mould is required reposition thecutter height or fence. Alternatively adifferent part of the cutter or a differentcutter can be used to build up the mould.When cutting across the grain due to thevery small nature of the components, itmay be necessary to hold the componentin a jig to ensure it remains at 90 to thecutter. This jig can be made of MDF andhave a batten secured at 90 to its edgeadjacent to the back fence, to act as aguide to keep the component in thecorrect position.

Cornice mouldsThe timber is prepared to the correctdimensions such as 3/8 thick. Theoperation is similar to that for cuttingskirting boards. A mould should be cuton a wide piece first and then partedafterwards. Due to the general size ofcornice moulds it may be necessary totake two passes by varying the back-fence positions to achieve the mould.For softer timbers, the mould can bemachined in one pass. If it is necessaryto cut the cornice on a square piece oftimber the same method as cutting ahandrail can be used. However as alarge portion of the material is removed,a support or saddle may be required onthe outfeed side of the table to preventthe material from tilting.

DH

/07 DH

/11

DH

/09

15

Side pressure

Top pressure

Top pressure

Side pressure

16

Door and fireplacesurroundsThe simplest method for door andfireplace surrounds is to cut the mouldon a wider piece of timber and then partit afterwards. The timber is prepared tothe correct thickness suitable for thesurround.Some door surrounds have a series ofparallel grooves running along the fulllength. These can be achieved by settingthe height for one groove, machine alongits length. Turn the material over andmachine the second groove. The lastgroove in the middle of the surround canbe routed by resetting the height of thecutter until in is in the centre of thetimber section.

Picture frames and mirror The simplest method for most shapes, isto cut the mould on a wider piece oftimber and then part it afterwards. Thetimber is prepared to the correctthickness for framing and routed usingthe same methods as cutting architrave. To rebate the back of the frame, fit thetwo flute straight cutter ref. DH/03 intothe table and set the height to give thecorrect height of rebate. Position thefence so that the correct depth of rebateis obtained. The timber will become verynarrow and quite weak, so fit the top andside pressure clamps to securely hold thematerial being routed. The mould is thenparted from the core material on a sawbench.

Grooving and rebatingRebates and grooves can be routed usingthe straight fluted cutters. The smallestdiameter cutters must be used with greatcare as they can be broken easily if toodeep a cut in one pass is made. Forrebates, it is advisable to use the largerdiameter two flute cutter ref. DH/03.Even larger diameter straight cutters areavailable. These can be purchasedseparately, such as Trend refs.C006x1/4TC which has a 6.3mm (1/4)diameter or C013x1/4TC (9.5mm or 3/8diameter). For both grooves and rebatesthe cutter is fitted into the table and theheight of the tool is set. Once the heightis set, position the fence so that thecorrect depth of rebate is obtained.

DH

/04 DH

/03

DH

/03

Top pressure

Side pressure

Top pressure

Side pressure

Top pressure


FinishingThe moulds can be cleaned up with finewire wool. Rough sawn edges can becleaned up with fine grades of abrasivepaper glued to a flat board, or by using ahand plane. The mouldings can be stained, painted,oiled or left uncoated.

Guide bushes andtemplates With the router used portably, a guidebush can be fitted and used inconjunction with a template. It enablesthe router to be guided around the edgeof a pre-cut template or along a slot ofsimilar width as the guide bush diameter.

The guide bush itself, is fitted flush intothe base of the router, and has a shortflange concentric to the cutter. Thisflange is run against the edge of thetemplate or guide. When routing, followthe normal feed direction (i.e. against therotation of the cutter), depending onwhether it is an internal or externaltemplate. Keep the flange tight againstthe template and do not lift the router asthe cutter will damage the template edge.The cutter will always leave roundedcorners. These can be trimmed squarewith a sharp chisel.

The template can be made from 6mmplywood or MDF. The use of thinmaterial allows ease of shaping andfinishing. When drawing out the template shape,remember that the difference between thecutter and outside guide bush diameterneeds to be allowed for. This margin (E)is calculated by deducting the cutterdiameter (d) from the guide bushdiameter (D) and dividing the remainderby two. For external templates deductthis amount from each edge of thetemplate or guide, or for internaltemplates add this amount to each edge.

Guide Bushfitted to routerTemplate

E

dD


Walls and windowaperturesTemplates can be made that allow therouter to rout out the window aperturesand doorways, as well as cutting theouter edges of walls and roof sectionsThe straight two flute cutter Ref. DH/03used in conjunction with a guide bushwill enable the shape of a template to befollowed on thin material, no more than6.35 (1/4) thick. Several passes mustbe made. For normal thickness walls(i.e. 3/8 ply or MDF) a straight cuttermust be purchased separately, with alarger diameter and longer cut length,e.g. C013x1/4TC. The machined edgeswill only require minimal cleaning up

with abrasive paper. Choose a guidebush diameter that will leave at least2mm clearance between the cutter andinside edge of the guide bush ring, toallow waste to clear easily. Alternatively a bearing guided trimmercutter can be purchased, this will enablethe template to be made the same size asthe finished product. This cutter isavailable separately in the Trend CraftRange or is included in the 12 pieceStarter Set ref. SET/SS3. See inside backcover for details.

Recessing hinges for dollshouse frontsA simple template cut from thin plywoodcan be used for recessing hinges. Cut

the template to size allowing for theguide bush margin. Pin a clamping blockto the template edge or simply clamp thetemplate in position over the work.Square the routed corners of the recess.

Joining walls and roofsA guide bush can also be used for cuttinggrooves to form joints between walls. Thisis carried out using a Tee square with aslot, the same diameter as the outsideguide bush diameter, cut along the blade ofthe square. Edge joints are best formed bycutting a rebate, either using a self-guidingrebate cutter, or a straight cutter held in atable-mounted router.

Template

Simple templates for doorand window apertures

18

19

5.0

1.6

DH

/01

5.0

2.0

DH

/02

8.0

3.2

DH

/03

STRAIGHT CUTTERS

Thin false table

Table

Fence Thin false table

Table

Fence

D

Rebates

Sash rails andstiles

Sliding box sashframe casing

CUTTER SELECTION44

All dimensions in mm


DH

/04

1.0

12.7

7.0

VICTORIAN BULL NOSE

Fence

Table

Skirting

Door surround

Architrave

20

DH

/05

12.7

1.0 9.5

Fence

Table

Dado Dado

Skirting Architrave

Picture rail Picture frame

TORUS BEAD

trend routing technology21


3.5

13.0

22.0

DH

/06

MULTI-MOULD

Fence

Table

Bead

Bead

Bead

22

Cornice Coving Cornice

Cornice

Skirting Architrave Picture Frame

Ovolo mould



7.5

12.7

1.6

DH

/07

45

MODERN TORUS

Fence

Table

Nosings Nosings

Nosings

Skirting Handrail

24


DOUBLE BEAD

Fence

Table

Beading Beading

Skirting Skirting

Dado Picture frame

5.5

12.7

0.8

DH

/08

25


DH

/09

2.0

2.022.0

10.0

OGEE CLASSIC

Fence

Table

Cornice

Cornice

Cornice

26


5.1

12.7

DH

/10

45

BEAD OGEE

Door Surround Architrave

Skirting Skirting

Fence

Table

27


DH

/11

8.32.0

15.9

1.51.0

TRIPLE CLASSIC OVOLO

Fence

Table

Dado Shelf

Cabinet/Table

Shelf Picture Frame


15.2

15.0

0.75

1.0

1.5

DH

/12

TRIPLE BEAD

Fence

Table

Nosings & Beadings


ALWAYS use the router and other power tools in a safemanner and away from children.BEWARE of unsafe working practices and potential hazardswhen using a router.CLOTHING such as ties or loose or baggy garments, whichmay be accidentally caught and pulled into the cuttershould not be worn or should be tied back when using arouter. DUST presents a severe health risk if inhaled. Always weara dust protector and/or use a vacuum extractor connecteddirectly to the router.EYE protection must also be worn to protect the operatorfrom ejected waste particles.EAR protection should also be worn, when routing for longperiods of time.FEED direction of the cutter into the workpiece or theworkpiece into the cutter should be against the rotation ofthe cutter.GUARDS should always be used when using a routermounted in a table. Always ensure that your fingers cannotmake contact with the cutter. Always use a push stick

together with hold down clamps when machining smalltimber sections when the router is mounted in a table.HURRIED setting up and routing can lead to accidents.Take your time to prepare yourself and the machine. Carryout safety checks before switching on.INSPECT the condition of the router cutter before use.Ensure that the cutter is held firmly in the collet, rotatesfreely and is well away from the work before the power isswitched on.JUDGE the correct feed speed by listening to the tone of therouter.KEEP router cutters sharp. Take care when handling themespecially when removing them from the collet or from a storage block.LISTENING to the sound of the router will often indicatethat the cut is being made too deep or that the cutter isblunt.MANUALS and other information supplied with the routeror cutters should be read thoroughly to ensure you arefamiliar with the controls, functions, and operatingprocedures.

ABC

D

E

F

G

H

I

JKL

M

THE A-Z OF SAFETY55


NEVER leave the router running unattended. Wait until therouter comes to a complete stop and switch off at the wallplug before making adjustments, changing the cutter oroperating the spindle lock. OBSTRUCTIONS should be kept clear of the path of the router and the routing area. Do not clear swarf or other debris away from the cutting area with the machine still running.POWER to the router must always be switched off and the machine isolated from the supply before changing cuttersor making adjustments. Make sure the power switch isOff, before plugging in, to avoid accidental starting. QUESTIONS regarding the safe operation of your router canbe answered, by Trends Technical Department. Theaddress and phone/fax numbers can be found at the end ofthis publication.ROUTERS must be allowed to reach their full running speed before commencing any routing operation. Do not switchthe router on with the cutter touching the workpiece.SHORT-CUTS must not be taken to the detriment of safe working practice.TIDY work areas and benches help to prevent accidents.Always keep the floor around the work area clear of all obstacles. Store router on a shelf, in a cupboard or in astorage box, so chips and nails cannot fall into the airintake.

UNDERSTANDING the current statutory woodworking regulations (such as the Supply of Machinery (Safety)regulations 1992 and The Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1992 and any amendments) is essential for all professional router users. NO-VOLT release switches should be fitted to all tablemounted routers, both to isolate the router in an emergencyand to prevent it switching back on when power is restoredafter a power failure or supply disconnection. WORKPIECES must always be securely and safely clamped to the work bench, in a vice or by some other means priorto commencing the routing operation. Do make sure thatany clamps are not within the path of the router. EXAMINE the cutters and router collet before use. Equally check that any knobs or screws on the router are tight and have not vibrated loose.YOUR safety when routing is more important than therouter or its cutters.ZERO accidents should be the first consideration whenusing routers and other power tools.

O V

W

X

YZ

P

Q

R

ST

UN

32

It is essential to regularly maintain yourcutters and collets in order to keep themin a safe and usable condition.

It will also help to maintain the life ofyour router by keeping the loads imposedupon it to a minimum.

Keeping your cutters sharp is a verysimple operation requiring little skill andremembering a few basic rules.

Clean all resin deposits from the cutterwith Resincleaner solvent or by scrapingwith a piece of stiff plastic beforeapplying a dry lubricant spray such asTrendicote.

Use a diamond sharpening stone toregularly hone your cutters, but only everhone a router cutter on the flat face ofthe cutting edge.

When honing your router cutters, applylight even pressure, and use an equalnumber of strokes on each cutting face.

Brass brushes should be used to removedeposits from the inside of the collet.

Regular application of a dry lubricantspray will prevent resin build up.

Rustbuster is used to lubricate thepillars of the router & to prevent surfacecorrosion.

CUTTER & COLLET CARE66

These products are available from your local Trend stockist.

12 PIECE STARTER SETAn ideal first purchase with yourrouter. A wooden box containing 12essential cutters for your basic pro-jects.

Router cutters are tungsten car-bide tipped.

Suitable for grooving, profiling& moulding softwoods, hard-woods, MDF & plywood.

Sets are available with 1/4 or8mm shanks.

Order Ref: SET/SS3

4 PIECE CUTTER SETA set of four TCT cutters aimed st thosenew to routing is now available.

10mm straight flute cutter. 60 V-groove cutter. 8mm bearing guided rounding over

cutter. 12.7mm decorative panelling cutter. Sets are available with 1/4 or 8mm

shanks.

Order Ref: SET/SS6

SIX PIECE CUTTER SETDeveloped from the highly success-ful SS3 set this economical set con-tains six popular TCT cutters sup-plied in a wooden box.

Set comprises a 45 V-groove, a bearing guided ogee, two straights and two bearing guided rounding over cutters.

Sets are available with 1/4 or8mm shanks.

Order Ref: SET/SS7

CUTTER & COLLET CARE KITThis kit contains all the essential accessories to max-imise the life of your cutters, collets and router.The kit comprises:

A DMT mini-diamond sharpening stone and water bottle.

Rustbuster anti-corrosion agent spray.

Trendicote PTFE dry lubricant spray.

Four sizes of brass brushes for cleaning collets.Order Ref: CCC/KIT

BOOK/DH v2.0

12 PIECE CUTTER SET FOR DOLLS HOUSESThis range of miniature cutters is designed tosuit dolls house requirements at 1:12 scale andfor all types of miniature or small scale worksupplied in a wooden box.

Router Cutters are TCT & 1:12 scale. Sets are available with 1/4 or 8mm shanks.Order Ref: SET/DH1

TREND BOOK/DH1Trend Machinery & Cutting Tools Ltd

Watford EnglandLiterature Hotline: 0800 4 TREND (0800 487363)

Technical: 01923 224681 Fax: 01923 236879

Email: [email protected]: http://www.trendm.co.uk

Available from your local Trend stockist.

Dolls House MouldingsIntroductionAbout the 12 piece setAdditional requirementsThe router tableRouter table constructionCutting listTable size, central aperture & table thicknessFitting the router, back fenceDust extraction & pressure guardsPush stick, fine height adjuster & no-volt release switchRouting techniquesRouting procedure - Skirting & architraveHandrails, furniture & corniceSurrounds, frames, grooving and rebatingFinishing, guide bush and templatesWalls, windows & roofsCutter selection - StraightsVictorian Bull NoseMulti-MouldModern TorusDouble BeadOgee ClassicBead OgeeTriple Classic OvoloTriple BeadSafety - A to MSafety - N to ZCutter & collet care

Dolls House

Documents

Transcript of Dolls House