Dog with Fear

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    2007, Pat Miller/Peaceable Paws LLCAll Rights Reserved

    FEAR ITSELFBy Pat Miller

    President Franklin D. Roosevelt, speaking about the Great Depression, said, We havenothing to fear but fear itself. If only it were that simple when dealing with dog behaviorinstead of failing economies. Fear-related behaviors can be debilitating to theinappropriately fearful dog. They are heartbreaking, frustrating, even sometimesdangerous for the human trying to deal with her dogs strong emotional responses, andfor the dog who may injure himself or others in his desperate efforts to escape or protecthimself from the fear-causing stimulus.

    Three Faces of Fear

    The complex of fear-related behaviors includes fears, anxieties and phobias. While theyare closely related emotional responses, they differ significantly in several ways,

    including the presence or absence of a physical trigger, the intensity of the dogsresponse, and the ease with which the emotional response and related behaviors can bemodified. In general, these three conditions can be among the most difficult of behavioralproblems to treat.

    There is a strong genetic component to fear-related behaviors. Whereas once we tendedto place a lot of the blame on owners for their perceived role in creating fearful dogs,today we recognize that a geneticpropensity toward fearfulness is a significant factor inthe actual manifestation of fear-related behaviors. While environment especially lack ofsocialization can play a critically important role in bringing these behaviors to fruition,genes explain why two dogs with similar upbringing and socialization can react so

    differently in the presence of a potentially fear-causing stimulus, and why even a well-socialized dog can suddenly develop phobic behaviors.

    Fearis defined as a feeling of apprehension associated with thepresence or proximity ofan object, individual, or social situation. Its a valuable, adaptive emotion, necessary forsurvival and appropriate in many situations. Its good to be afraid of grizzly bears,tornados, and semi-trucks skidding out of control on icy highways. Your dog is wise tofear the flashing heels of a galloping horse, strong waves crashing on an ocean beach, thespinning wheels of a passing car. People and animals who feel no fear are destined to liveshort lives.

    Of course, overly fearful dogs may lead short lives as well. Fear-related aggression is asignificant risk to a dogs long and happy life. A fearful dogs first choice is usually toescape, but he may bite defensively if cornered or trapped, and dogs who bite are ofteneuthanized. In addition, a constant emotional state of fear makes for a poor quality of lifefor a dog, and for humans who are stressed by their fearful dogs behavior.

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    Debates about anthropomorphism aside, most biologists agree that human and nonhumanmammals experience fear similarly. Recall one of your own heart-stopping, adrenalin-pumping life experiences. Perhaps you were approached by a menacing stranger in analley on a dark night, threatened by a large predator on a camping trip, cornered by anangry bull in a pasture, or just missed rear-ending a car in front of you when a moment ofinattention caused you to miss the warning flash of taillights. Remember how helpless,vulnerable and terrified you felt? You can empathize with your dog when you see him

    trembling in the presence of a stimulus that elicits a similar response in his canine brainand body.

    Anxiety is the distress or uneasiness of mind caused by apprehensive anticipation offuture danger or misfortune, real or imagined. Anxious dogs appear tense, braced for athreat they cant adequately predict, sometimes one that doesnt actually even exist.Anxiety can be a chronic condition, one that significantly impairs a dogs (and owners)quality of life, and one that can be more challenging to modify than the fear of a real andpresent danger. Separation distress is perhaps the most widely discussed anxiety-relatedbehavior in dogs, but owner absence is not the only cause for canine apprehension. Manydogs are anxious on car rides anticipating, perhaps, a visit to the vets office, or some

    other bad place. A dog who has been attacked by a loose dog while walking on leashmay become anxious about going for walks, constantly stressed, scanning theneighborhood for another potential attacker.

    Again, human anxieties are similar to canine. If youve been mugged in a dark alley, youare likely to experience some degree of stress anytime you find yourself walking down analley in the dark. Some people experience extreme anxiety over taking exams, even whentheir past successes show that they pass tests with flying colors. Barbra Streisand,successful singer that she is, suffers from extreme performance anxiety, still becomingphysically ill every time shes about to walk on stage. The danger or misfortune may beimagined, but the anxiety is very real.

    Phobias are persistent, extreme, inappropriate fear or anxiety responses, far out ofproportion to the level or nature of threat presented. They are stubbornly resistant tomodification through habituation or desensitization repeated low-level exposure to thestimulus that causes the extreme response. While inappropriate in degree, a phobicresponse is not totally irrational it is usually directed toward something that couldbeharmful. Common human phobias are related to snakes, spiders, high places, flying allthings which havepotential to be life threatening. In reality, the majority of snakes andspiders are relatively harmless, its rare for humans to accidentally nosedive off askyscraper, and only a tiny percentage of airplanes ever crash. Common canine phobiasinclude extreme reactions to thunderstorms and other sounds, fear of humans, andinappropriate response to novel stimuli (anything new and different).

    Lucy and the Halloween Parade

    When we adopted Lucy, our Cardigan Corgi in June of 2004, one of the things thatappealed to me was her obvious self-confidence. This was a dog, I thought, who couldtravel with me to seminars, appear in public, perhaps even compete in Rally or Agility, orboth. I worked on socialization, taking her places with me whenever I could. She took it

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    all in stride, just as I anticipated until I made the mistake of taking her on the HumaneSociety of Washington Countys Halloween Parade float. I thought she was old enough atnine months to handle the parade environment. I was wrong.

    The parade is the pride of Hagerstown, Maryland an all-afternoon and evening affair asfloats and marchers get lined up and ready to move through the center of town. Lucy wasenjoying the commotion, eating yummy treats as we strolled past stationary floats,

    greeting people and practicing socialization and good manners behaviors. With the signalthat it was time for the parade to begin we hustled back to the float, loaded up, and settledin our seats along with a half-dozen other dogs and their handlers.

    Lucy continued to enjoy the attention as we rolled along the spectator-lined street. Peopleof all sorts walked up to the slow-moving float and petted her. Her ears were up, her eyesbright, and her tail wagging merrily. Then she heard the drums.

    I hadnt realized our street would merge with the marching band street. I watchedhelplessly as my confident Corgi melted down before my eyes. Her ears flattened backagainst her head. Her tail went down, her eyes lost their shine, and she began to tremble,

    rapidly losing her enthusiasm for the treats she had been happily consuming.

    Then I made my second big mistake. We should have bailed out of the parade at thatpoint and arranged for someone to come back and collect us after the festivities wereover. Instead, I opted to stick it out, hoping to use my higher-value treats to countercondition and desensitize her fear response to the drums. Instead we achieved the exactopposite the constant exposure to the too-intense stimulus effectively sensitizedher toloud noises, increasing her fear response. That sensitization caused her to be intenselysound-phobic, which generalized to thunderstorms, the banging of our horses in theirstalls in the barn, and worse luck, cheering and applause.

    Getting BraveWhether youre working with fears, anxieties or phobias, the solution to an inappropriateemotional response is counter conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) to change yourdogs emotional response to the stimulus or situation. In The Cautious Canine, authorand behaviorist Dr. Patricia McConnell calls counter conditioning a universally effectivetreatment for fear-based behavior problems. Think of it as training your dogs emotionsrather than training his actions. Behavior change will follow emotional change.

    Counter conditioning involves changing your dogs association with a scary stimulusfrom negative to positive. The easiest way to give most dogs a positive association is withvery high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use chicken canned, baked or boiled,since most dogs love chicken and its low a fat, low calorie food. Perhaps your dog isafraid of your vacuum cleaner. Heres how the CC&D process works:

    1. Determine the distance at which your dog can look at the non-running, stationaryvacuum cleaner, and be alert and wary but not extremely fearful. This is called thethreshold distance.

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    2. With you holding your dog on leash, have a helper present the non-runningvacuum at threshold distance X. The instant your dog sees the vacuum, startfeeding bits of chicken, non-stop.

    3. After several seconds, have the helper remove the vacuum, and stop feedingchicken.

    4. Keep repeating steps 1-3 until the presentation of the vacuum at that distanceconsistently causes your dog to look at you with a happy smile and a Yay!

    Wheres my chicken? expression. This is a conditioned emotional response(CER) your dogs association with a non-running vacuum at threshold distanceX is now positive instead of negative.

    5. Now you need to increase the intensity of the stimulus. You can do that bydecreasing distance to X minus Y, by increasing movement of the vacuum atdistance X, or by turning the vacuum on. Id suggest decreasing distance first insmall increments by moving the dog closer to the location where the vacuum willappear, achieving your CER at each new distance, until your dog is happy to beright next to the non-running, non-moving vacuum, perhaps even sniffing ortargeting to it.

    6. Then return to distance X and add movement of your non-running vacuum,gradually decreasing distance and attaining CERs along the way, until your dog isdelighted to have the non-running, moving vacuum in close proximity.

    7. Now, back to distance X, with no movement, have your helper turn the vacuumon briefly, feed treats the instant its on, then turn it off and stop the treats.

    8. Repeat until you have the CER, then gradually increase the length of time youleave the vacuum running, until hes happy to have it on continuously.

    9. Begin decreasing distance in small increments, moving the dog closer to thevacuum, obtaining your CER consistently at each new distance.

    10.When your dog is happy to have the running, stationary vacuum close to him,youre ready for the final phase. Return to distance X and obtain your CER there,with a running, moving vacuum. Then gradually decrease distance until your dog

    is happy to be in the presence of your running, moving vacuum cleaner. He nowthinks the vacuum is a very goodthing, as a reliable predictor of very yummytreats.

    The above example concerns a fairly simple fear behavior. The more complex thestimulus and the more intense the response, the more challenging the behavior is tomodify. Anxieties and phobias generally require a greater commitment to a longer termand more in-depth modification program, and often beg the intervention of a good,positive behavior professional.

    Back to Lucy

    I chastise myself regularly for taking Lucy to that Halloween parade. In my defense, Ididnt realize we would meet up with loud drums and plenty of dogs without a geneticpredisposition for sound-phobia would have been just fine with the noise. In fact, becauseof the genetic influence, theres high likelihood that her noise phobia would have beentriggered sooner or later anyway perhaps by a very intense thunderstorm.

    Weve made some progress with her sound phobia. Loud television programsoffer ideal opportunities for counter conditioning and desensitization, as do recordings of

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    thunderstorms and applause, where the intensity of stimulus (volume) can be controlled.Real thunderstorms are another story, however. They inevitably are super-threshold occurring at an intensity that triggers a strong emotional response, trembling and shuttingdown to a degree where she can no longer accept high-value treats. For those, weveadded melatonin, a snug T-shirt (the economy version of an Anxiety Wrap(http://www.anxietywrap.com) - operating on the concept of swaddling as a comfortingdevice), a Comfort Zone plug-in DAP diffuser, and the use of an anti-anxiety drug

    (Alprazolam) obtained through consultation with our behavior-knowledgeableveterinarian. Were considering the purchase of a Storm Defender cape(http://www.stormdefender.com) to see if it might be even more effective than the snugT-shirt, and we may use a Calming Cap (http://www.premier.com/pages.cfm?id=188)to reduce the intensity of stimulus of lightning flashes. Were encouraged by Lucysimprovement, and hope for the day when shes no longer traumatized by storms andapplause. We might even make it to the Rally ring one day.

    SOCIALIZATION

    Socialization means giving your puppositive exposures to the world while hes young

    enough to be forming his world view. Early socialization is your best immunizationagainst fear-related behaviors. The mostimportant period is from the age of four weeks tofour months. After that, the window of opportunity starts to close. Dogs who miss theirearly socialization never totally recover, and are much more likely to fall victim tofearfulness. Ongoing socialization is important throughout a dogs life.

    Lots of early socialization will help your puppy grow into a confident, friendly, outgoingcanine companion. Failure to socialize creates shy, fearful dogs who can never enjoy theworld, and are at high risk for biting someone, sometime. Dogs who bite tend to haveshort, unhappy lives.

    A dogs adult personality comes from nature (genetics), andnurture (environmentalinfluences). If your pup is genetically confident hell still needsome socialization tobecome a well-adjusted adult. If hes genetically shy or timid, hell needtons ofsocialization to become a normal dog. The best insurance against fearful, potential bitingadult dogs is to socialize the heck out ofall puppies.

    Note the importance ofpositive experiences. Protect your pup from painful or frighteningexperiences. Dont expose him to excessively loud noises or extreme visual stimuli likeyour towns 4th of July fireworks display or Halloween parade! Supervise interactionswith children so they cant tease and torment him or encourage inappropriate puppybiting and chasing. Instead, have them feed him tasty treats for sitting politely kids love

    to learn how to train dogs! Make puppy experiences like trips to the vet for vaccinationsas positive as possible lots of treats in the waiting room, lots of treats while he gets theshot, lots of treats from the vet and clinic staff. In fact, make it a point to visit your vetswaiting room when you donthave an appointment, so going to the hospital doesntalways mean being poked and prodded.

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    See a pattern? Using tasty treats generously to give your pup a positive association withmany potentially aversive stimuli and experiences is calledclassical conditioning.

    Present any aversive stimulus at a low intensity at first far away, low volume, andassociate it with yummy stuff. Every time the scary thing appears, feed your pup tastytreats lots! As long as he can see the scary thing, feed tidbits. When the thing leaves,stop feeding. When your pup realizes that the thing makes good stuff happen, hell want

    the scary thing to appear. Then you can increase the intensity closer, louder and keepfeeding treats, until the pup is completely happy about the sight or sound.

    Do this with things that are neutral, making sure your pup has a positive association withthose things too. Children are the most common victims of dog bites. Start creating yourpups positive kid association first time he sees them by feeding treats wheneveryounghumans are around dont wait to find out if he is afraid.

    FEAR: SIDEBAR THE FACE OF FEAR

    Most people, even non-dog owners, can identify a dog who is in abject fear trembling,

    drooling, crouched low, tail tucked, pupils dilated perhaps even losing control ofbladder and bowels. Its much easier to miss the more subtle early-warning signsindicating the early onset of fear. Yet, as with all undesirable behaviors, fear is easier todeal with sooner, rather than later, so there is real value in being able to determine when adog is slightly fearful and take prompt steps to alleviate the fear either by removing thefear-causing stimulus and/or implementing a program of counter conditioning anddesensitization.

    Ignorance of subtle fear signals is one of the primary reasons a purportedly child-friendly dog mauls the unsuspecting toddler. Because the dog never exhibited overtaggression to the child growling, lunging, snapping the owner assumed the dog was

    kid-friendly. Instead, the dog may have always felt threatened by the presence of children their high-pitched voices, sudden movements and sometimes inappropriate behaviorstoward the dog. Misinterpretation of fear-signals can also be the cause of inappropriateowner behavior punishing the dog or forcing the dog to confront the threat both ofwhich can worsen a dogs fears and trigger an aggressive response. To avoidexacerbating your dogs fear, or perhaps turning a fear into a phobia, watch for thefollowing early warning signs and be prepared to protect your dog from the perceivedthreat:

    Makes an effort to leave Hides behind you

    Averts eyes Panting increase in respiratory rate Sweaty paws leaving footprints on cement Reluctance to take/eat treats Ducking the head Licking, yawning, blinking

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    An excellent resource to help you better understand your dogs body language signals isthe DVD The Language of Dogs by Sarah Kalnajs, Blue Dog Training and Behavior,2006; 2hours 13 minutes, $39.95. Available at www.dogwise.com.

    RESOURCES

    There are several excellent books that address fear-related behaviors in dogs. For a morein-depth exploration of the topic, consider the following, all available atwww.dogwise.com:

    The Cautious Canine; How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears by PatriciaMcConnell, Dogs Best Friend Ltd., 1998. Softcover, 30 pages, $6.95;www.dogsbestfriendtraining.com. This concise but information-packed booklet isa gold-mine of information on managing and modifying your dogs fearfulbehaviors.

    Help For Your Fearful Dog; A Step-by-Step Guide to Helping Your Dog ConquerHis Fears by Nicole Wilde, Phantom Publishing, 2006. Softcover, 141 pages,

    $24.95. This in-depth volume contains detailed information on fear-relatedbehaviors as well as specific modification instructions for working with a widevariety of fear-causing stimuli.

    Ill Be Home Soon; How to Prevent and Treat Separation Anxiety by PatriciaMcConnell, Ph.D. Dogs Best Friend Ltd., 2000. Softcover, 36 pages, $7.95. Anexceptionally useful booklet to guide you in modifying and managing your dogsseparation anxiety.

    For the Love of a Dog; Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best FriendbyPatricia McConnell, Ph.D. Ballantine Books, 2005/2006. Hardcover, 332 pages,$24.95. While not specific to fear-based behaviors, this ground-breaking newbook by Dr. McConnell explores emotions in dogs including the emotion of fear.

    WHAT YOU CAN DO

    1. Super-socialize your pup and avoid exposing him to extremely intense stimuli tominimize the likelihood hell develop fear-related behaviors.

    2. Manage your dogs environment to the extent possible to protect him from thingsthat make him afraid. If you do find him becoming fearful, remove him from thestressor as soon as possible to prevent increasing sensitization.

    3. Implement a program of counter conditioning and desensitization to help himovercome his fears.

    Pat Miller is a Certified Dog and Horse Behavior Consultant and Certified Professional

    Dog Trainer. She offers classes, behavior modification services, training clinics andacademies for trainers at her 80-acre Peaceable Paws training facility in Fairplay,Maryland, and presents seminars worldwide. She has authored The Power of PositiveDog Training, Positive Perspectives, Positive Perspectives 2, and Play With YourDog. Miller is training editor for The Whole Dog Journal, writes for Tufts UniversitysYour Dog, and several other publications. She shares her home with husband Paul, fivedogs, three cats, five horses and a donkey. www.peaceablepaws.com

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