Columns

Cast-OffAnchors and Anchoring: The first of a two-part series looks at anchor design, holding power, load requirements and components.

DIY ProjectsEnd mildew with this easy-to-make dorade vent;Synthetic alternative to wood.

ElectronicsGetting a Fix on GPS: Selection, installation and troubleshooting.

Engine TroubleshootingIncrease speed, handling and performance with a computer-matched prop; Summer cruising tips.

Powerboat RiggingStep-by-step installation of a Hy-Trac hydraulic steering system plus maintenance tips.

Sailboat RiggingUpgrading mainsheet traveller systems.

Knotty Know-HowBelaying a cleat.

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DIYSUMMER 1996

FEATURES

Departments

TalkBack DIY boat owner's Information ExchangeTechTips Boat-tested tips.

6 PROJECTBOATREPAIRING A DELAMINATED HULLA boat is rebuilt from the keel up after faulty construction causes the outer fiberglass laminate to separate and peel off the hull in sheets.

RECIPES FOR GREAT

GALLEYSThe “ideal” galley offers all sorts of possiblities for adventurous do-it-yourselfers to improve convenience, functionality and safety.

For instruction on repairinga delaminated deck, seeDIY 1998-#2.

CHANGING NAMES

Q: I recently purchased a boat withits name painted across the transom.The boat was built in 1993, so I ‘massuming the name has been therefor three seasons. I want to renamethe boat using vinyl graphics. Howdo I remove the painted name with-out damaging the gelcoat?Paul Travis, Undecided, Fifty Point, Ont.

A: There are several ways to removesign paint from gelcoat. Oven clean-er (Easy-Off is one brand) does agood job of removing some but notall paints. Apply the cleaner, thenuse a wide-blade putty knife (plasticis best) to lightly scrape off the paint,being careful not to scratch the sur-face. Interlux Pintoff 299 will alsoremove the paint, but use a metalputty knife because the product candissolve plastic ones. After removingall the paint, rinse thoroughly andapply your new vinyl graphics. (SeeSPRING ‘95 issue for step-by-stepinstructions.) Some people use ovencleaner followed by a heat gun, butyou must be extremely careful not toheat up the surface. We recommendthat you try Pintoff before resorting toa heat gun.

REMOVING A GORI

Q: My boat is S2 9.2A and is fittedwith a Gori folding propeller. Iwould appreciate some informationon how to remove the prop from theshaft. Brian Lee, St. Catharines, Ont.

A: For a solution, we contacted OleJensen of Jensen Marine in Oakville,Ont., who for many years distributedGori propellers and now handlesthe Danish-made Flex-O-Fold prop.In order to remove a Gori propeller,you must first take off the blades. Atthe end of the hub you will see two

TALKBACKsmall holes that hold two Allenscrews that secure the pivot pin.Remove the screws and knock thepins out of the hub. Now, undo theAllen screw on the side of the hubwith a 7/8” socket wrench, andunscrew the nut inside the hub. Toremove the hub from the shaft, youwill need to borrow or rent a proppuller with two long prongs. If theprop has been on for a long time, itmay take a lot of pressure to get itoff. However, persistence will payoff in the end. When you go to rein-stall the prop, grease the shaft tofacilitate removal next time.

CAUKLING AWOOD HULL

Q: I enjoy your magazine and sub-scribed to only yours after looking atno less than eight other boating pub-lications. I recently purchased a 9m(30’) 1966 Chris-Craft Crusader. AsI consider myself to be an accom-plished woodworker, topside issuesdo not concern me but I could usesome advice on the bottom, which isdouble-planked, 22mm (7/8”)Philippine mahogany. In two placesthe antifouling has peeled off andone spot shows a gap in the plank-ing. The question arises: Whenshould a gap be caulked, and whencan it be left alone? Which caulkingshould I use? I gather from youradvice and that of other sources,that 3M 5200 would be appropri-ate. Also, how dry should the hull bebefore caulking? Finally, how farinto the joints, both running and end,should the caulking penetrate?John Griffiths, M.I.S. Directed, N.E.Massachusetts

A: Shipwright Duarte Picanco ofNoahs in Toronto, Ont., offers theserecommendations: “We tend to

leave gaps that are smaller than2mm (3/32”) alone, since it is difficult to inject enough caulkingmaterial in and the gap will seal upwhen the wood swells anyway.Caulking should penetrate a mini-mum of 12mm (1/2”) into the joints.The wood surfaces must be dry tothe touch; excess moisture can causea chemical reaction which could cre-ate a weak bond. Depending onyour situation and conditions, thecaulking process could take any-where from a few days to a coupleof weeks. We have used both 5200and Sikaflex 240 in the shop withexcellent results, but prefer the quick-er tack-up and curing time of theSika products. Regardless of theproduct you use, remember that thewood must be dry, cleaned of anyloose, flaking paint or old caulking,and degreased before you start.”

Need help with a problem? Unableto find information on products ordo-it-yourself projects?

DIY TALKBACK is a special reader servicethat makes available to you the resourcesof marine industry experts on topics suchas boat repair, engines, trailers, electricity,plumbing, electronics, sails, maintenanceand more.

Cost is FREE to DIY subscribers.

Send your questions to:TALKBACK via mail, or E-mail. Includeyour name, subscriber ID number (if known),boat name and home port in all correspon-dence. MAIL:P.O. Box 22473Alexandria, VA 22304 E-MAIL: info@diy-boat.com

TECHN

ICAL H

ELPLIN

E

SHAKE IT UP: The power in drychemical fire extinguishers tends topack or “cake” over time. Periodicallyshake the cylinder vigorously, theninvert the cylinder and strike it sound-ly two or three times with a rubbermallet to loosen the powder. Sheilah van Nostrand, Dream Catcher,Keswick, Ont.

WHEN YOU NEED MORE JUICE:If you inadvertently run your batteriesdown at anchor so much that theywon’t turn your engine starter over,and there is no help nearby, try usingjumper cables that you keep aboard(you do keep them aboard, don’tyou?). Connect the ship’s service bat-tery in series to the starting battery(negative post to positive post, andpositive post to negative). This mightproduce enough voltage to turn thestarter over, but if so, use the starteronly in short bursts and allow time forit to cool between starting tries. Phil Friedman, Port Royal Marine, Pompano Beach, FL.

MAKING CONTACT: Next timeyour flashlight fails to shine, the faultmay be with the contacts and not thebatteries. Surface oxidation on inter-nal switches where two pieces ofmetal touch can prevent electricalcontact. Periodically open the flash-light and clean all the contact pointswith a standard pencil eraser.

TAPELESS COTTER PINS: Usingneedle-nose pliers, curl the ends ofcotter pins so they form a tight coil.You’ll save on rigging tape that other-wise would be wrapped around thepin ends to keep them from punctur-ing fingers, ankles and sails. It willalso prevent your from reusing thepins, which is not a good practice.

TEAK OIL RAGS: Spontaneouscombustion may cause rags whichhave been used to apply teak oil to

TECH TIPScatch fire. To prevent this from hap-pening, soak rags in water immedi-ately after you use them.

FAULTLESS CONNECTIONS: If youdidn’t do it this spring, now is the timeto go around your boat with a screw-driver and tighten all the electricalconnections. A loose connection canresult in voltage drops, overheatingand even electrical failure. Check andretighten wire connections regularly.

PLEASE GRAB BAGS: Plastic bagsdiscarded in marina slips and water-ways are a leading cause of failedwater-pump impellers. If you see bagsfloating on or under the surface, useyour boat hook to remove them. Youcould save yourself and others frompump failure and possible enginedamage. George van Nostrand, Dream Catcher, Keswick, ON

SCRATCHLESS CLOTH: Use a terrytowel when you apply polish tosmooth surfaces such as gelcoat. Anydirt remaining on the surface ends upin the loops of the towel. A chamois,cloth diaper or similar smooth ragcan drag sand or grit residue andscratch the finish.

CHARCOAL UDPATE: In theTechTips column of our FALL ‘95 issuewe suggested you use charcoal toabsorb odors and moisture whenyou’re not using the boat. A readerfrom Montreal, Que., called to tell usthat on a boat the charcoal should bestored in a metal container, such as acookie tin, rather than a plastic one.Charcoal is highly susceptible tospontaneous combustion.

Tech Tips welcomes contributionsfrom readers. If you have a boat-test-ed tip you’d like to share, send com-plete information along with yourname, boat name and home port.

Tech Tips welcomes contributionsfrom readers. If you have a boat-tested tip you’d like to share, sendcomplete information along withyour name, boat name and homeport to: DIY Tech Tips,

P.O. Box 22473, Alexandria, VA,22304 or E-mail to

i info@diy-boat.com.

Story and Photos by Paul and Sheryl Shard

We watched with trepidation as thehaul-out crew positioned the slingsunder our home-built Classic 37 sail-boat, Two-Step. Lifting the boat witha crane always made us nervous,but we were worried about the con-dition of our fiberglass hull followinga 20,000-nautical-mile voyage tocountries around the Atlantic Ocean.Three years in warm tropical seascan take their toll.

Fiberglass hulls arerenowned for their highstrength and durability;however, fiberglass is sus-ceptible to osmosis blister-ing and, if left unchecked,can cause structural dam-age and hull delamina-tion. To prevent osmosisfrom happening to ourboat, we had coated thebottom with six protectivelayers of Interprotect2000, an epoxy barriercoating.

Now back in ourhome port of Port Credit,Ont., the foreman gavethe hand signal and Two-Step began to rise out ofthe water. We had hauled

out briefly in Gibraltar the previousyear — to redo the bottom paintafter our transatlantic passage toEurope — and had been pleasedwith the condition of the hull at thattime.

When we decided to build aboat in 1985, we both agreed tostart from a bare hull rather thanbuild the hull ourselves. We knewthe limitations of our skills (andenthusiasm) and felt it prudent to trust

this job to a professional. We founda small independent builder with themolds for the Sparkman & Stevens’designed Classic 37 and, with goodreferences, had him and his crew setto work. We took delivery of the hullin the summer of 1986.

It was the only part of the boatwe did not build ourselves. We dideverything else though, right fromsmelting the lead for the internal keelto doing the interior and exterior

woodwork, electricity andplumbing, rigging andcountless other jobsrequired in building aboat. When we finished,we had accumulatedmore than 6,000 hours oflabor between the two ofus during the three-yearprocess.

As Two-Step was lift-ed out of the water wesaw, with relief, only afew barnacles clinging tothe prop and a few barespots on the bottom of thekeel where the 1.8m (6’)draft had found unmark-ed shoals. Otherwise, theboat was in great condi-tion — or so we firstthought.

The outer layer of fiberglass peeled off the hull in huge sheets— like peeling a banana!

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DIY

PROJECTBOAT

REPAIRIN

G

A DELAMINATED HULLFaulty construction causes the fiberglass

laminate to separate and peel off the hull in sheets.

Mistaken Identity

Then something very strange happened. During the nextfew days, as we cleaned and unloaded the boat in theyard, we noticed a few deep blisters in the gelcoat,about the size of a quarter, so we marked them anddrilled them out to dry. But as the days went by, moreblisters began to appear. The blisters actually seemed tobe growing and spreading!

We continued to mark and drill out new blistersdaily. They were all the same size and discharged asour-smelling ooze about the consistency of honey.Within a week,our belovedboat had a seri-ous case of the“pox.” Mystified,we sadly left theboat to dry outover the winter.

In the spring,things got worse.We were backat the boatyardand Paul waspreparing to fillTwo-Step’s blis-ters while I didsome refinishingin the galley. Icould hear himtapping at thehull as I worked. Then I heard a noise that I will never for-get. A sound like fingernails on a blackboard. A scrap-ing, withering “rrrrrrrrrrrip” of fiberglass. I raced downthe ladder and found Paul leaning against the cradlewith a piece of our hull in his hand.

“Our boat’s falling apart,” he said.He had dug the edge of a chisel into a large blister

and discovered that the outer layer of fiberglass wouldpeel right off. We were stumped. Our problem did nothave the symptoms of a typical osmosis or delaminationproblem. We needed expert advice.

We called our friend Wally Dzuryk, former projectmanager of CS Yachts. He took one look at our peelinghull, checked the substrate and tapped the hull all over.He knew immediately what the problem was.

“Your hull isn’t delaminating,” he said. “It was nevercorrectly laminated in the first place.”

Wally explained that it is common practice forbuilders to prepare hull molds for the next boat by coat-ing them with gelcoat, then spraying on a thin layer of

After pressure washing the hull withfresh water, blister cavities were filledwith a mixture of microballoons,Cabosil and polyester resin.

chopped fiberglass strands mixedwith resin. Although this saves timefor the builder, when the hull is leftfor more than two or three days thesurface must be cleaned andground to remove the wax that wasadded to the resin to promote cur-ing, or subsequent layers of glasswill not bond properly to the outerlayer.

Boats with blistersunder the gelcoat or blis-ters caused by voids deep-er in the laminate are easi-ly repaired by grinding theblisters out and filling themwith an epoxy coating.Where blisters are causedby inferior laminating tech-niques, however, repairingthe visible blisters stillleaves voids between theouter layer and the hull,causing new blisters toappear every year. As thehull layers were never cor-rectly bonded, we suspectit was the Interprotect coat-ing that blocked the waterfrom getting into the voidsooner.

After a thorough sur-vey, Wally assured us thatthe underlying hull wasstrong and sound. Therewere only a few voids inthe topsides and we couldinject those with epoxy tore-bond. We were relieved;we knew that if we had to strip andrelaminate the topsides, we couldnever fair them to our satisfaction.

Under Wally’s direction, westripped away the fiberglass lami-nate from the waterline down to thekeel and laid in four new layers offiberglass mat and roving. Next wefaired the bottom and reapplied

Interprotect epoxy barrier coat andantifouling.

Make-Ready

The first job was to build a shelteraround the boat to keep the hull dry.We made a simple structure of 2x2scovered with a clear plastic tarp. Foradded protection, we ran a rain gut-ter made of folded electrical tapearound the hull above the waterlineto prevent any water running downthe topsides from traveling down theexposed hull below the waterline.We supported the boat with 4x4wood beams bolted to the toe rail

and various other props at the sternand bow, so the entire bottomwould be accessible without havingthe cradle pads in the way.

Then we began stripping awaythe old laminate. This was much eas-ier than we thought it would be,which demonstrated how poorly thislayer was originally laminated. With

a sanding disk on a grinder, Paulcarefully ground to the depth of the

outer layer of laminate allaround the waterline.Then we peeled away theouter layer of fiberglassdown to the keel.Sometimes it tore away in1.8m-long (6’) strips. Thehull was surprisinglysmooth underneath. TheAirex closed-cell foamcore, visible through thenext few layers of fiber-glass, was well sealed.Airex is impermeable towater and adds strength,stiffness, impact strengthand sound and thermalinsulation that preventscondensation in the boat’sinterior and kept us coolin the tropics.

Dark gooey patchesshowed where moisturehad collected in the voids,mixed with resin and leftglycol, a by-product ofpolyester resins that,unlike water, does notevaporate. We pressure

washed with clean water beforeattempting to sand and fair the hulland left it to dry.

To prepare the exposed hull forreglassing, we used a small grinderand 36-grit disks to smooth the hulland create a “tooth” for the newlaminate. A light touch is importanthere to avoid cutting crescents in the

The hull was divided into sections and labeled with awaterproof marker in preparation for applying the newlaminate. The lighter area below the waterline is theAirex core which remained intact.

Mat and roving were precut andlabeled so they could be applied with-out stopping.

PROJECTBOAT

glass. Then we washed with acetoneand clean rags to remove any lasttraces of wax. Finally, we filled anydips and crevices with a putty ofresin, microballoons and just enoughCabosil to thicken the mixture — toomuch Cabosil and it would be toohard and impossible to sand. Whenwe were satisfied with the fairingjob, we measured the hull into sec-tions the width of a piece of fiber-glass mat and labeled and markedeach with a waterproof marker.Then we premeasured and cut themat and roving into lengths.

Six-Layer Wrapper

On Wally’s recommendation wehad decided to use polyester resininstead of epoxy. It’s less toxic tohandle, much cheaper than epoxyand forms a reasonable mechanicalbond to the existing fiberglass.Epoxy would have provided astronger bond but would haveadded more than $1,000 to the bill.Of course, we would still apply anepoxy barrier coat over the newfiberglass.

Now we had to wait for goodweather; we needed two consecutivedry days. We taped the waterline togive a clean edge. The new lami-nate would stand proud by 15mm(1/16”), but would be masked bythe boot stripe.

The first day, we applied a layerof 1.5-oz chopped strand mat as abase. It took five of us to do the job— two to position and hold the mat,one to hold the mat against the hull,one to mix the resin and another towet-out the glass with rollers. Wehad to work quickly before the resinhardened, keeping less than a gal-lon in the paint tray while beingcareful not to mix more than wecould use in 15 minutes or less. Weused a paint-mixer attachment on adrill to stir the mixture. Soon weworked out an assembly line systemof pre-wetting the hull, positioningthe mat, wetting the mat, mixing

more resin, and on and on.The next day, we hand-sanded

the bottom and washed it with ace-tone. Then we applied another 1.5-oz mat followed by 18-oz rovingand a final 1.5-oz mat. Adding onelayer to the entire hull took aboutone and a half hours. We waitednearly another hour for each layer topartially cure before applying thenext layer. Applying consecutive lay-ers “green on green” forms onechemical bond between the layersthat is much stronger than four indi-vidual layers.

When the final layer had fullycured, we sanded high spots andbegan fairing using a similar mix ofmicroballoons, Cabosil and resin,and an old saw blade as a puttyknife, to follow the contours of thehull. We enlisted Wally’s help againwith the final fairing around thewaterline and his professional eyegave us an arrow-straight bootstripe. Finally, we washed the

bottom with acetone one more timeand applied the Interprotect 1000and 2000 epoxy barrier coating asper the instructions, followed byantifouling. With the help of friendsand family, it had taken 11 days tocomplete the job.

The hull repair was a massivejob but, as all do-it-yourselfers know,the satisfaction and feeling of controlyou get from tackling a big problemcan make even such a large job wellworth the effort. Now we know ourown hull and feel more confidentthan ever as Two-Step cuts throughthe waves. She has been back to theBahamas twice since we made thisrepair and remains blister-free.

Paul and Sheryl Shard spent threeyears sailing to 23 countries around theAtlantic Ocean in a Classic 37 sailboatthat they built from a bare hull. Theirbook, Sail Away! A Guide to Outfittingand Provisioning for Cruising(CDN$24.95) and video documentaryof their voyage, Call of the Ocean

DIY REPAIR BILLThe following is the approximate cost for repairing a 11m(37’) sailboat from the waterline down to the keel. Pricesvary depending on the products used and amount of paidlabor. It’s a good idea to enlist someone with professionalboatbuilding experience as supervisor of your team. If youhaven’t done much fiberglass work, check with a profes-sional yard for an estimate. We got rough estimatesaround $10,000. This works out to almost $300 per foot(LOA). Estimates for DIYers run from $50 to $100 per footdepending on how much help you enlist.

Temporary shelter (lumber, plastic, staples) $1004x4 legs to support hull $50Acetone $50Cabosil, microballoons $50Polyester resin (20 gallons) $360Fiberglass mat and roving $380Interprotect 1000 and 2000 (6 coats) $420Antifouling paint (2 coats) $400Rollers, sandpaper, grinding

discs, brushes, solvent$ 100

TOTAL: $1910

Laminating the four layers was arduous overhead work andit took five crew to do the job.

PROJECTBOAT

(CDN$29.95) is available in bookstores and chandleries orfrom Pelagic Press, Tel: (705) 484-0061.web site: http://www.searoom.com/shard

anchors: fluke; plows; kedges orhooks; and mushrooms. Among themost popular of these is the fluke-style, lightweight burying anchordeveloped by Richard Danforth.There are a variety of Danforth-typeanchors marketed under the Fortress,Kingston, Performance (West Marine)and other brand names. This styleholds exceptionally well in sand, mudor clay bottoms. In weeds or rockybottoms, however, the flukes of allDanforth types tend to skate ratherthan dig in. The pivoting flukes alsocollect mud and weeds on retrieval.A recent adaptation, the American-made SRS self-releasing anchor, is afluke-type with feet. Made of stainlesssteel, it was designed primarily forholding in rocks.

The plow-type anchor comes inseveral styles. The CQR’s uniquedesign resembles no other anchortype. Its deep-burying flukes are con-nected to the hinged shank that piv-ots somewhat parallel to the bottomas the vessel changes its direction ofpull. Similarly designed plow-typeanchors are the Kingston, Max,Bruce and Delta. The latter two areone-piece anchors with no welds. TheBruce anchor is designed so theanchor always rests on the bottom onone of its three flukes. The Delta,made by Simpson-Lawrence, isweighted so that the flukes dig in assoon as it reaches the bottom.Furthermore, it is balanced so that itcan fall unaided from the bow rollerand, on recovery, it is self-stowing —an advantage for singlehanders andwhen the anchor is used with a wind-lass. In tests conducted by the Britishpublication Motor Boat andYachting, Delta anchors rated best insetting and holding in sand and claybottoms.

The Max anchor made byCreative Marine has a unique three-

position shank (fixed models are alsoavailable) which can be pinned atdifferent angles to improve holdingpower in a variety of seabeds. Theanchor is easy to set as its wideflukes quickly dig into mud, sand,weeds and rocks. Independent test-ing in the U.S. gives this anchor topmarks for deployment and holding.Because of their large flukes, all plowanchors tell you a lot about the bot-tom when retrieved.

The kedge or hook type anchors,such as the Yachtsman, Herreshoffand Fisherman, are somewhat remi-niscent of the huge, traditional Navytype. Such anchors are more depen-dent on weight for holding powerthan fluke or plow anchors. Whilethis design is an excellent choice forhooking rocks and coral heads orpenetrating through grass andweeds, its bulkiness and excessiveweight makes the anchor difficult tostow. Other hook types are the stock-less Navy which, pound for pound, isprohibitive on modern pleasure craft.The grapnel, a stockless, five-pronged anchor is sometimes usedby anglers but works better forretrieving lost equipment on the bot-

tom by dragging it back and forth.Northill-type anchors look a little likemodified grapnels. These anchorsare best used during daytime ratherthan for overnight security unless theyare trapped in a rock ledge or coral.

ANCHORS ANDANCHORING

The first of a two-part serieslooks at anchor design, holding power, load require-ments and components.

By Sheilah van Nostrand

No craft, be it a rowboat or a yacht,should be without ground tackle.Anchors hold the boat in positionwhen lunching, fishing, or overnight-ing away from the dock. In an emer-gency, such as an engine failure ordismasting, an anchor doubles as asafety device, securing the boat untilhelp arrives.

The ideal anchor sets quicklyand resets itself when the windand/or current shifts. It should holdwell in all bottom types: sand, mud,stones, weeds, coral, rock and mixedbottoms. It should withstand highload stress, hold well with a shortscope, release easily from the bottomand store compactly on deck or in alocker. Unfortunately, no one anchorpossesses all of these qualities for allboats in all situations. Makinginformed choices on what to use onyour boat and how to use it is as per-sonal as your hair style.

GETTING HOOKED There are essentially four types of

CAST OFF

CQR

MAX

The fourth anchor type, mushroom anchors, are used primari-ly for permanent moorings in muddybottoms because of their unmanage-

able weight. Their efficiency as ananchor is otherwise at the lowest endof the scale.

When it comes to choosingground tackle, you don’t want to min-imize or economize. Consideranchors not for the calm conditionsyou hope to use them in but rather forthe worst conditions. Buy name-brandquality, examine overall construction

and welds (where applicable), andstudy the features of each type in aneffort to match your style of cruisingto the security needs of your boat.Serious cruisers often carry two ormore types of anchors in readinessfor a variety of seabeds.

HOLDING POWER

The sizing of ground tackle is deter-mined by a boat’s length, beam,weight, the owner’s boating habitsand the type of seabed that is expect-ed.

The best way to select workingand storm anchors (you should haveboth) is to consult the boat’s designer,builder or an experienced owner of asistership. Where this is not possible,the minimum load requirements on ananchoring system, provided by theAmerican Boat & Yacht Council, arelisted in Table 1. Manufacturers alsoprovide suggested anchor sizesaccording to a boat’s overall lengthor gross weight. Use these values asa general guide. When buying ananchor, you must also factor in hull

CAST OFF

Table 1 — MINIMUM HOLDING REQUIREMENTS (in lb/kg)

Use this chart to determine the minimum loadrequirements on an anchoring system in

varying wind conditions.

LOA BEAM Storm Anchor Working Anchor Lunch Hook‘/m Sail Power (42 knots) (30 knots) (15 knots)

15 5 6 500 250 604.5m 1.5m 1.8m 225 112.5 27

20 7 8 720 360 906m 2.1m 2.4m 324 162 40.5

25 8 9 980 490 1257.6m 2.4m 2.7m 441 220.5 56

30 9 11 1400 700 1759.1m 2.7m 3.3m 630 315 78.7

35 10 13 1800 900 22510.6m 3m 3.9m 810 405 101.2

40 11 14 2400 1200 30012.1m 3.3m 4.2m 1080 540 135

Note: Holding power will vary depending on the type of bottom and anchor, the style of the boat and the wind conditions. These values do not consider any additional load factors (see Holding Power). Courtesy American Boat & Yacht Council.

SRS

form, displacement and superstructure, and the usual pre-vailing wind and sea conditions.

Rough seas, strong currents and wind all increase theloads on your ground tackle. In 15 knots, forexample, wind exerts about 135kg(300lb) of force on a 12m (40’)boat. Mass also plays a crucialpart. A heavy-displacementboat has more “yanking”power than a lighter one.Boats with lots of windage— such as tall masts, fly-bridges or canvas enclo-sures — produce more load as the wind increases. Thewetted surface of all underwater fittings, even the pro-peller, increases drag. Where any of these load conditionsexist, you should always select the next size larger. Whenbuying an anchor, remember bigger is better.

TWO’S BETTER

How many anchors do you need? Oneanchor is never considered sufficient. Despite therisk of fouling one anchor beyond your ability to retrieve it,there are times when it is desirable to set two.

For small boats on day trips in protected waters,choose a versatile anchor of a suitable weight and holdingpower for your vessel. Then stow a second anchor foremergency use. For cruising boats, three anchors can pro-vide an efficient mix: light lunch hook for brief stops in pro-tected waters while you remain on board; a workinganchor for regular overnight service; and a third, largerstorm anchor selected for its superior holding power inextreme weather conditions. Caution dictates that therealways be at least one anchor ready for deployment withina minute or less in an emergency, such as engine failure ina crowded, narrow channel.

PUTTING IT TOGETHER

The rode consists of all the gear between the anchor andthe boat. Use nylon line, which doesn’t rot when storedwet and is very elastic, stretching a third or more underload. Three-strand twist outstretches its double-braidedcousin by about 50%, but braid is easier to handle andstow. Here again, buy name-brand quality — your holdingpower depends on it.

Much of the advantage inherent in nylon is lost bybuying too large a line, thereby losing the benefit ofstretch. The ability of a line such as nylon to stretch andgradually absorb the heavy shock load on fittings andground tackle is of particular value when a boat surges atanchor in steep seas. In rough waters, a nylon snubberattached to the line will absorb even more of the shock.

A short length of chain, 1.8m to 2.4m (6’ to 8’), issometimes attached between the anchor and its three-

strand nylon rode, particularly when the boat will beanchored in rocky or coral bottoms. Contrary to popularbelief, short lengths of chain only aid in setting the anchorand keeping the shank parallel to the bottom in calm con-

ditions; stronger winds lift thechain off the bottom.Cruising boats and boats fit-ted with windlasses often useall-chain rodes. However, as

the extra weight alters a boat’s speedand trim, all-chain rodes are not recom-

mended for modern, lightweight cruisers.When buying chain, it’s essential to match the

link length to the windlass pulley. Of the three most com-mon types of chain used for anchoring, BBB has morelinks per foot and is marginally stronger than Proof Coil;High Test is stronger than both.

When you’re attaching line to chain or the anchor,use galvanized or nylon thimbles and

galvanized or stainless-steelshackles. Use a screw-pin

anchor shackle securedwith wire or a nylon tie,or a bolt-type shackle.It’s a good practice to

limit working loads ofshackles and thimbles to

Delta

Kingston Lightweight

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one-fifth the rated breaking strength of rope. Shackles canbe bypassed by attaching the rode directly to the anchorwith an anchor bend or bowline, then tying an extraround turn on the ring and seizing the free end to the line.

Keep in mind, however, that knots reduce the strength ofa line by 40% or more; splices by about 15%. Refer toTable 2 for suggested line and chain diameters in windsof 30 knots or more.

The weakest part of the rode is the splice; it shouldbe of a reasonable length, taut and firmly seized at thejoin. Also pay close attention to the quality and fit of thesplice on the thimble. It should be a tight, snug fit andseized (or whipped) around the line and at the “V” of thethimble.

Lastly, on larger boats be very sure to attach the bit-ter end of the rode to a large cleat, mooring bitt or eyebolt, to avoid accidental loss of the anchor. Never per-manently attach the anchor in a small rowboat or run-about until you’re ready to use it. In the event of a cap-size, the anchor could sink the boat.

PART 2 in our anchor series continues in the FALLissue with a look at anchoring techniques and tips.

CAST OFF

Use this chart as a general guidewhen purchasing anchor rodes.

LOA 3-STRAND NYLON CHAIN

up to 25’ 3/8” 3/16” PCup to 7.5m

27’-31’ 7/16” 1/4” PC8.1m-9.3m

32’-36’ 1/2” 1/4” PC9.6m-10.8m

37’-44’ 9/16” 5/16” PC/BBB11.1m-13.2m

45’-50’ 5/8” 5/16” PC/BBB13.5m-15m

NOTE: Rode sizes are based on the use of high-quality anchor line. Both line and chain diameters are rated for winds up to 30 knots.

Table 1 — DETERMINING RODE SIZES

Use pipe clamps and smallscrews, if you need them, to holdeverything in place until the gluedries. Now glue the baffles into posi-tion. (See diagram for placement.)

Tightly screw on the vent to thebase plate and, using the latter as atemplate, mark the hole on the boxtop. Make certain the vent will faceforward when it’s installed. Cut thehole about 5cm (2”) from the aftedge, centered on the top, using ajigsaw.

To determine the most suitablelocation on deck for the vent, make acardboard template of the dorade’soutside dimensions. Position the pat-tern on deck, carefully avoiding anyrigging, wiring or other obstacles

both on deck and below. Select alocation with minimal deck

camber, if possible, andavoid positioning the ventsover berths, as they draw

a lot of air. Transfer theshape to the deck with a

pencil.Now mark the air hole intothe cabin. Center the PVCpipe in the dorade, about25.4cm (10”) from theback edge. Using the pipefor a template, trace the

outside edge. Cut the hole,insert the pipe and file to fit.

From below in the cabin, markthe length so the top edge of the

pipe sits about 5cm (2”) above decklevel and the lower edge is flush withthe deckhead. Cut the pipe with a

hacksaw and glue it in place.Round all corners and edges

with a small block plane,rasp, Sur-Form or othershaping tool. Sand every-

thing smooth with an orbitalsander and 120-grit paper.

Dry-fit the box again to the

PROJECTSDIYADD A VENT Materials12mm (1/2”) plywoodCleat stock, 2.54cm x 2.54cm (1”x1”)10.1cm (4”) threaded cowl vent10.1cm (4”) threaded deck plate10.1cm (4”) diameter PVC pipeTeak finishing ringEpoxy glueMarine paintNylon insect screen

Nearly 95% of all fiberglass powerand sailboats are inadequately venti-lated. When a boat is left closed fora week or so, humid air turns thecabin into a greenhouse that growsall sorts of harmful water-based mat-ter — namely, mildew, corrosionand wood rot. When you’re onboard, even a few hours spent in astuffy, smelly cabin can be unbear-able.

Bad ventilation is easily reme-died by improving air flow. One ofthe most effective ways to do this isto add a pair of cowl vents mountedon dorade boxes. This design is a lotsimpler than the teak dorades withdovetail joints crafted for customyachts. Made of 12mm (1/2”)epoxy-coated plywood or StarBoard(see next page), they require mini-mal woodworking skills.

Although most dorade boxesare rectangular, the forward edge ofour design is sloped to reducewindage. To hide exposed edges ofthe plywood, sandwich the endsbetween the sides; the top then over-laps all upper edges.

Follow our diagram and cut outall the pieces. Also cut two piecesthe width of the box, one 5cm (2”)and the other 7.6cm (3”) in height.These are glued to the interior andact as baffles to prevent rain and

spray from entering the cabin. Cut four oval drain holes about

19mm (3/4”) deep, near each cor-ner on the bottom edge. (Cut onlytwo holes on one side if the box is tobe mounted flush against the cabinside.) Glue 2.54cm (1”) square orright-angled strips (cleats) to theinside top and bottom edge of theends and sides, avoiding the drainholes. Secure with C-clamps untildry. Then, glue the box ends to thesides, lining up the outer surfaces.

ANN

E-M

ARIE

HEN

DRY

3” or 4”Cowl vent

Baffles PVC pipe Insect screen

4” diameter hole

Wood or Plexiglass

top

16-1/2”

6-1

/2”

7-1/

2”

7-1/

2”

4” diameter opening indeck with insect screen

1” squarecleat stock

Drainholes

Baffles

deck. Place in position and use abevel gauge to measure the deckangle. Using a plane, file or sander(or whatever you feel most comfort-able with), bevel the lower edge tomatch the deck. Dry-fit the box againand repeat the bevelling process asnecessary until the box rests evenlyagainst the deck. Mark the place-ment of the screws and drill pilotholes in the deck. Screws must fastento the cleat stock. From inside thecabin, redrill the pilot holes to fit thescrews, drilling into the cleat stock.Apply three to four coats of epoxy toall inside and outside surfaces, fol-lowing the manufacturer’s instruc-tions. Finish with an epoxy-basedenamel or polyurethane marinepaint. Attach the vent base plate tothe box top with polysulfide sealant.Mount the box on deck with screws

threaded from the cabin deckhead.Now fasten an optional teak ring(available at marine stores) to give aprofessional finish to the interior.

The large 10.1cm (4”) ventdraws a lot of air; keep a wool sockor hat handy to plug the hole on coolnights. If bugs are a problem, you’llneed to fashion an insect screen to fitover the PVC tube. When combinedwith a solar exhaust vent (see DIYProjects, SUMMER ‘95), you’ll havethe freshest cabin in the harbor.

SYNTHETIC ALTERNATIVE TO WOODIf you’re tired of stripping, sandingand painting or varnishing exteriorwood trim, or you need to replacedecayed plywood components,there’s an alternative.

StarBoard from King PlasticCorp, is a strong, durable marine-grade polymer fabricated into sheets

of various thicknesses and as thin as6mm (1/4”). It does not rot or fadeand cannot delaminate. It’s pre-fin-

ished surface has a matte texturethat repels stains, is scuff- andscratch-resistant and easy to clean.

This synthetic material is easilycut or drilled with standard wood-working tools. You can useStarBoard to replace wooden itemssuch as swim platforms, chair bases,ladder steps, cockpit grates, baitwellhatches, rod holders, handrails, gal-ley counters, tables and cabinets —the potential applications are end-less. It’s available in six standardcolors to match most common gel-coats.

The product is easy to workwith. Simply measure, cut and fit.StarBoard cuts easily with a tablesaw or radial arm saw, using a car-bide blade with 50 to 70 teeth. Noadditional finishing is necessary. Forprofessional results, finished edgescan be rounded with a router. Arouter bit with four spiral flutes worksbest as it ejects plastic chips awayfrom the cutting surface and mini-mizes overheating which gums upthe bit. You can even hide the fasten-er holes with wood bungs cut fromStarBoard.

StarBoard bonds to fiberglass,aluminum, steel, wood, plywoodand itself with a specialized two-partKing StarBond adhesive dispensedfrom a glue gun that can be pur-chased or rented from your localStarBoard supplier.

DIY has arranged to make someitems out of StarBoard this summerand we’ll give you a detailed reportin our Winter Annual Boat Refit issue.

PROJECTSDIY

KIN

G P

LAST

IC C

ORP

.

GETTING A FIXON GPS Unless you’ve been hibernating inCyberspace, I’m sure you’ve heardabout the Global PositioningSystem, or GPS. Operated by theU.S. Department of Defense, the sys-tem was declared fully operationalin June 1995 with the launch of thelast of 24 satellites. These satellitescruise in six orbits at an altitude of20,000 km (12,400 miles) and sig-nal their position and altitude abovesea level (on some units) every sec-ond, 24 hours a day.

Understanding GPS operationis actually quite simple, when theoryisn’t muddled with modulations, dilu-tions, dopplers, pseudo-somethingsand other GPS terminology. (For allthe GPS ins, outs and how-tos, pickup a copy of The Users Guide toGPS by Bonnie Dahl.) GPS operateson microwave-based carrier signals,much as your householdmicrowave oven does. Eachsatellite is equipped witha highly accurate atom-ic clock and sends outa time signal innanoseconds —that’s one billionthof a second. AGPS receiverreads the timemeasurementsand calculatesits own lati-tude/longitude(lat/lon) posi-tion based onits distance to a particular satel-lite.

At any given

time there are at least 21 satellitestransmitting, 10 of them below thehorizon. GPS receivers are pro-grammed to identify each satellite,its orbit, its check code and how faraway it is. When your GPS receiverlocates the satellites, it evaluates intwo or three dimensions exactlywhere you are. A 2D search pro-vides an X-Y-type fix; a 3D fix calcu-lates altitude as well — which isn’trequired for marine applications, ofcourse, unless you’re airborne.

To obtain a 2D position, areceiver needs at least three satel-lites — four satellites for 3D. It“hunts” the skies for satellite signalslocated within a cone shape(Figure 1). Known as preferredorientation, most receivers readonly the signals within this cone,locking onto from three to six satel-lites to obtain an accurate timemeasurement. A unit that reads sig-nals from satellites orbiting outside

ELECTRONICSthis cone will receive inaccuratetimes and erroneous lat/lon.

Receivers also look for satelliteswith the best geometry and the lowest electrical interference. Thisinformation is presented as a signal-to-noise ratio, a measurement ofhow well the unit is receiving thesignal. A low ratio means the satel-lite or a constellation of satellites islow on the horizon and the geome-try is poor. Receivers have differentways of presenting the signal-to-noise ratio, depending on thebrand.

GPS accuracy is largely deter-mined by selective availability, orSA, an operational mode imposedby the U.S. military. It’s an errorintentionally planted in the GPS sys-tem that degrades accuracy 15m(49.2’) or more to the right or left ofthe receiver’s location. Contrary towhat we printed in our SPRING ‘96issue, SA fluctuates around 100m(328’) 95% of the time, dependingon the U.S. political climate.

Differential GPS (DGPS) is awhole different system and

is more accurate thanstandard GPS lat/lon.

Most units, exceptfor the rock-bot-tom-priced ones,are differential-ready. Thismeans theyhave the capability toreceive correction sig-nals fromland-based

reference sta-tions. These sta-tions continu-ously monitor

20°

40°60°

40°

20°

Preferred orientation

GPS

EARTH

A GPS receiver needs only three satellites within its preferred orientation cone toobtain an accurate lat/lon. Satellites orbiting outside this cone, either right or left or

centre, will be watched or ignored by a receiver.

Figure 1

Anne

-Mar

ie H

endr

y

the signals for the GPS satellitesand calculate geographic and SAerrors. Revised measurements arethen broadcast to a DGPS receiverthat applies the corrections to thesatellite signals, and the result is anextremely accurate navigation posi-tion correct up to 3m (9.8’) most ofthe time.

DGPS requires installation of asecond antenna — actually, a loranantenna, and an interpreter. Somemanufacturers are now offeringcombination VHF and GPS anten-nas. A portable unit will require acable link of some kind. DGPS alsocomes with a premium price tag. Itcan add $1,000 or more to thetotal cost.

Performance Versus Price

When shopping for a GPS unit youneed to consider application, per-formance, user-friendliness, screendisplay, waterproof construction(important for using a GPS in thecockpit) and power and add-onoptions for portable models.

Consider how you intend to usethe unit, now and in the future.Portable units are the most popularwith boaters. You can transportyour portable GPS between boats,

use it for other outdoor activities, ortake it home to practice on or tohelp you plan your next cruise.Most portables run on AA 1.5-voltbatteries, either alkaline or

rechargeable ni-cads which lastabout twice as long. GPS“engines” are power hungry, how-ever, and portable units can burnthrough six AA batteries in aboutfive hours, depending on the unitand the temperature; more expen-sive units will operate for a longerperiod. Defaulting to a 2D searchwill reduce battery consumption byabout 10%. If you want a portableunit, purchase one with a 12-volt

power adapter, bracket mount andexternal antenna so you can oper-ate the unit belowdecks. (GPS can-not read through moisture.)Installing a 12-volt power outlet inthe cockpit will save batteries. Andholding your portable GPS well outin front will maximize signal recep-tion.

A fixed GPS with an externalantenna is a good choice when theunit will be used on board only oneboat. Fixed units connect to theboat’s 12-volt supply and outshineportables in both performance andaccuracy. Fixed units are moreexpensive than basic portables, butadding options to enhance the effi-ciency of a portable, increases thecost to near the price of a fixed unitanyway.

Screen presentation is anotherconsideration. Fixed units have larg-er screens that display multiplepieces of information simultaneous-ly, while portable units provide mini-mal data on tiny screens.Obviously, the more data that’s dis-played, the less often you need topunch the keys to get to the desiredinformation.

Options on some GPS unitsinclude audible anti-theft alarms andman-overboard functions. If youplan to communicate with an autopi-lot, chart plotter, radar or fishfinder,you’ll need a unit with a NMEA0183 interface. If you own a lap-top, a PC interface lets you down-load GPS information into naviga-tion software. A laptop is a cheaperoption than a dedicated plotter andit can be used for myriad othertasks.

GPS receivers range from $300for low-end portables to $2,500 forfixed units. Prices generally reflectthe accuracy level of the unit. Agood receiver can tell you whereyou are up to the available SA(15m/49.2’ or better). A lower-priced unit may place you in the

ELECTRONICS

The preferred choice of many boaters,hand-held units often compromise per-formance and accuracy for portability.

30m (98.4’) to 50m (164’) accuracy range, despite thedegraded SA. High-end units generally track and holdsatellites better than their less-expensive relatives. Whenyou buy, you get what you pay for.

The antenna type and location (see Installation) isthe key to signal reception and receiver performance.Fixed units have a remote antenna mounted on a sternrail or some other above-deck location. Portable unitsoften have linear phase antennas (also known as quadri-filarhelix) — the stubby, cube-shaped type. A betterantenna for many applications is the more expensivepatch type, a square, wafer-thin antenna used with fixedunits and placed inside some portables.

Before buying a GPS, visit your dealer for a hands-on demonstration. Examine the durability of the unit. Is itwaterproof? Check the quality and size of the display. Isit user-friendly? Ask for the manual and, following theinstructions, try moving through the key sequences. Is iteasy to learn or will you be living with the manual inyour other hand? The more keys, the longer the learningcurve. This is especially true with a portable GPS, whoseoperating system you’ll have to become very familiarwith because of continually changing screens.

Fixed Installation

A fixed GPS unit is as simple to install as an AM/FMradio. Select a flat, smooth bulkhead in a dry location, ifthe GPS is not waterproof. Mount the unit close to thenav station (if you have one), as you’ll need to refer toyour charts, and in a place where the keypad is accessi-ble and the screen is easily read. Using the supplied tem-plate, drill the mounting holes and mark the cutout. Cutthe hole with a hole saw or jigsaw, insert the instrumentand fasten it to the bulkhead. Connect the positive wireto a distribution panel or switch, and the negative wireto a common ground. Attach the antenna cable andinterface cable, if the unit has one. Use cable ties to sup-port the wires and cables. Unlike a loran, a GPS receiv-er doesn’t require a huge ground or an isolated battery,and noise filters are rarely used. Mounting a unit on aswing bracket near the companionway allows viewingfrom the cockpit; leave lots of slack in the wires andantenna cable to allow for expansion. You can alsoinstall a repeater (about CDN $300) in the cockpit or fly-bridge.

The palm-sized antenna needs a clear shot at the skyand should be placed away from rigging, metal objectsand other obstacles. Preferred locations are on a stan-dard VHF antenna bracket on the stern rail or, on apowerboat, above the flybridge. Never mount the anten-na underneath cockpit canvas, such as a camperback.Microwave energy absorbs water molecules (that’s what

ELECTRONICS

heats food in a microwave oven)and wet canvas will prevent theGPS from receiving signals.

Mismatched Signals

Unlike loran, GPS is not affected bymagnetic or electrical interferenceor lightning. But while the atomicclock is extremely constant, thereare inherent problems with themicrowave carrier that causeslat/lon errors.

Positive and negative ions formpeaks and valleys in the ionosphere(80 to 120 miles above the earth)and the earth’s atmosphere. Thisaffects the speed of GPS signals,causing them to slow down, bend orrefract. Water vapor also affects thesignal.

Signals also have a tendencyto bounce or reflect off structures,such as buildings, rocks or trees,before getting to your receiver. Thisis known as multipath error. Insteadof going directly to a receiver, thesignal takes a more indirect path.Better receivers compensate for thisproblem but it still can cause somemeasurement error, depending onthe unit.

Any moisture — such as densecloud or pea-soup fog — betweenthe antenna and the microwave sig-nal lowers the signal-to-noise ratio.To test this theory, put your handover the antenna and watch theratio fall. Some GPS signals maywarble around big cities withexcessive radiation, the so-called“greenhouse” effect, or from“wormholes”, (and it’s only StarDate 1996) caused by the thinningionosphere. And as with loran,electronic spikes through the systemfrom engine start-ups can causesoftware crashes.

Tally the probability of theerrors mentioned above, then factorin a random SA, signal geometry

and antenna positioning, and theposition inaccuracy can be verysmall or quite large, depending onthe unit. Locking onto a home fix inthe morning is no guarantee thatyou’ll arrive at the exact positionwhen you return.

As with any electronic naviga-tion device, don’t rely solely onwhat you see on the display screen,especially in bad weather condi-tions. Think of GPS as a navigation-al aid, a finely precisioned electron-ic tool that, like your home comput-er, requires a manual backup.Coupled with good plotting skillsand common sense, a GPS helpsmake every cruise a safe one.

Small yet powerful, palm-sizedGPS antennas receivemicrowave-based signals fromorbiting satellites.

The Silva NAVIMAP digital chartplotter links to the Silva GPS andprovides a simple way of measuringdistances and programming waypoints into the GPS.

TROUBLESHOOTING••• — — — •••

ENGINE

mended rpm range while carrying anormal load. When an engine does-n’t reach the rated rpm it runs hotter,may overheat and puts a load on thepistons, crankshaft and bearings. If,however, an engine revs past the rec-ommended rpm it will wear faster.

NO LONGER GUESSWORK Boat engines are generally factory- ordealer-equipped with stock propsdesigned to provide satisfactory per-

formance over a widerange of boat typesand operating condi-tions. When yourboat doesn’t run atthe recommendedrpm or could bene-fit from improved

handling or speed, pro-peller manufacturers, marine dealersand prop shops can provide guid-ance in choosing the correct pro-peller size and style.

For a $55 fee, Bayview PropellerRepair in Woodview, Ont.(705/654-4409), for example, willprepare a detailed computer analysisto determine the best prop for yourneeds. First, they’ll send a question-naire that asks for detailed dataabout your boat, engine and pro-peller as well as background informa-tion, such as how the boat is usedand what you’re hoping to achieve— better hole shot or top-end speed,say, or more control in turns orincreased handling when docking.You’ll need to provide: the manufac-turer’s name and model of the boatand engine; engine data, such asrated horsepower and rpm, shaft size(inboard) and gear ratio or reductionat the gear case; the diameter, pitch,number of blades and rotation ofyour current propeller; the maximum

Diameter is twice the distancefrom the hub center to a blade tip.Increasing the diameter improvesacceleration and may also reducecavitation. A large prop also gener-ates more thrust than a small one but,if it’s too large, reduces the engine’smaximum rated rpm. Conversely, aprop that’s too small will cause theengine to cavitate and over-rev.

Generally, the most efficient propis one with the largest diameter thatfits the space available. Installationlimitations usually dictate howmuch the diameter can bealtered. On sailboats where theprop is in an aperture, theremay not be sufficient blade-tipclearance to swing a largerprop. (In some cases, a largeprop can also increase hullvibration.)

Pitch, the distance a prop wouldmove in one revolution, is responsiblefor rpm on an inch-by-inch basis. Alower pitch provides more pullingpower while a higher pitch almostalways increases top-end speed butreduces hole shot and acceleration.Cupped blades, which have a smallcurve or lip on the trailing edge of theblade, react like a higher-pitchedprop, giving them more bite in thewater, improving rough-water stabilityand reducing cavitation.

The first step in finding the rightpropeller is to determine the engine’srecommended rpm operating range.

(You’ll find this listed in theoperator’s manual.) The

correct propeller isone that provides

the desiredperformanceand allows

the engine torun at or near

the top of the recom-

EVALUATINGPROP PEFORMANCEMatching your boatand engine to theright prop can make anoticeable differencein overall speed andperformance.

Propellers are the most important fac-tor in a boat’s handling, ride, comfortlevel, speed, acceleration, enginelife, fuel economy and safety. The cor-rect prop can improve a powerboat’stop-end speed by several mph; a mis-matched prop affects stability, canventilate in turns at top speed andcan cause chine walking. Maneuver-ability and control, especially whendocking, are noticeably improved ona sailboat that’s paired with the rightprop.

Factors to consider when select-ing a prop include: the boat’s lengthoverall; gross weight, including theboat, motor, fuel, passengers andusual gear; your style of boating (rac-ing, cruising, fishing or skiing); andthe local water and current condi-tions. On larger cruisers and sail-boats, the design of the boat plusengine size, gear ratio and shaftdiameter alsodirectly influencepropeller perfor-mance.

Overall perfor-mance is relative tothe prop’s diameter,pitch and number ofblades. In a propsize of of 15x10, thediameter is 15” andthe pitch is 10”.

propeller diameter possible (tip clear-ance); and the boat’s current maxi-mum rpm and hull speed in knots ormph.

With this information and inputfrom past statistical results plusknowledge from Bayview’s 32 yearsof experience sizing props, DennisJohnson, manager of BayviewPropeller, can advise you on yourprop requirements. Before comput-ers, when prop sizing was done byhand, it could take a day to arriveat a near-match that often was incor-rect and normallyrequired finetuning by trialand error,according toJohnson.Computers elimi-nate the guess-work and, usual-ly within a fewhours, will providea perfect propellermatch for all applica-tions, with the exception of smallhigh-performance powerboats (seeTrial and Error).

POWER: DIALING IN RPM

With runabouts and small cuddycruisers, you can check prop perfor-mance by comparing tachometerreadings to the boat’s top speed.Refer to the owner’s manual to findthe recommended wide-open-throttle(WOT) or top speed range, and the

engine’s peak horsepowerrpm. Take the boat for aride with a mediumload and run it atWOT with the enginetrimmed out.

If your on-water testsshow the engine is exceed-

ing the recommendedWOT and rpm range,you have two

options: increaseprop pitch or switch to

cupped blades. If, instead, theengine doesn’t reach the recommend-ed WOT, prop pitch must bedecreased or cupping must be elimi-

BE KINDTO YOUR

PROP

Damaged props decreasespeed, affect performance andburn more fuel. The vibrationfrom damaged prop bladescan ruin seals and bearings inthe lower unit, causeserious prop cavita-tion and reducethe life of thegearcase andpowerhead.Inspect your propregularly for chipsand dents and if youfind damage, have itrepaired as soon as possible.

TIPS

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11Issues

The Portable Solution

nated. In either situation, a 5cm (2”) increase or decreasein pitch will result in roughly a 300 to 400 rpm drop orrise. Changing from an uncupped to cupped propeller, orcupped to uncupped, while maintaining pitch and diame-ter, will typically reduce or increase rpmby about 200.

Once the WOT rpms fall withinthe recommended range, the propis correctly matched to theengine’s rpms. However,some aspects of performance,such as poor holeshot or top-end speed, may not yet beachieved. This can be correct-ed by switching propeller mod-els or styles and, again, match-ing the size to meet the properWOT rpms.

There are a wide selection of three,four and five-blade propellers for outboards and stern dri-ves. All-purpose, three-blade stock aluminum props are theleast expensive, retailing for around $200. Stainless propscan be as much as five times stronger than aluminum and,when it comes to high-speed performance, peak blade effi-ciency and bite, are tough to beat. Standard stainlessprops cost $350; more high-tech props such as the five-blade Quicksilver High Five or OMC Renegade push$700.

The new three and four-blade line of stainless-steelBallistic props from Attwood are a good compromise ifyou’re looking to improve top speed at an affordableprice. Depending on the pitch, these props sell for less thanCDN$439/US$380. Props are shipped in a durable plas-tic carrying case that doubles as an on-board storage casefor your spare prop.

On larger boats, a prop evaluation also considers thedesigned hull speed and engine reduction gears. Consider

TROUBLESHOOTING••• — — — •••

ENGINE

AS THE PROP TURNS

If your engine is right-hand rotating,then the propeller should be a right-hand prop;

if left-hand rotating, then it needs a left-handprop. Rotation is marked on the prop hub as RHor LH. Check the hub before ordering a replace-ment prop.

TIPS

this example: a 9.6m (32’) Wellcraft St. Tropez cruiserpowered with twin Crusaders. Maximum rated horsepow-er for these engines is 350 hp at 4,400 rpm. Equippedwith 17x17 three-blade props, the boat runs at 4,500rpm and a slow top speed of 32 mph at WOT.

Bayview Propeller did a computer sizing for the owner and recommended changing the size of the props.The analysis also showed the boat’s tachometers werefaulty. (A knowledgeable prop shop can often discovermechanical problems with the engine or transmissionwhen doing a sizing. It’s important when recording themaximum rpm that tachometers are accurate.) When indoubt, have the results confirmed by a technician. Withnew tachs installed and the boat re-propped with two17x16, three-blade cupped props, the Wellcraft reached

36 mph at 4,350 rpm.

SAIL: TAKE CONTROL

For the past thirty-some years, two-blade pro-pellers were standard issue on sailboats. Such

props were adequate for light-displacementboats but on heavier boats, they provided

inadequate acceleration (especially instrong currents or high seas), controland maneuverability. Sailboats need aprop that delivers the maximum thrustfor the engine and gives the operatorcomplete control in most situations.In many cases, performance is greatlyimproved with a three-blade prop ofthe largest diameter that will fit.

(Folding and feathering props are beyond the scope ofthis article and will be reviewed in a future issue.) Themarked increase in thrust from three-blade props willdeliver better control and handling that greatly outweighsthe extra drag.

Consider the example of a Alberg 29 — a modifiedfull-keeled boat with a prop installed in an aperture. Thepowerplant is a Yanmar 2GM inboard diesel rated for15 hp at 3,600 rpm and with a 2.62:1 reduction gearratio. The owner complained the boat lacked controlwhen docking and was powerless in strong currents.Bayview Propeller generated a computer analysis andrecommended a Michigan 15x10, three-blade prop. Asthere wasn’t room to swing the 15, however, the ownerhad to settle for a 13x12 prop which gave sufficientblade-tip clearance without added vibration. The smallerprop develops 154.8kg (344lb.) of thrust, compared to167kg (371lb.) for the larger prop, a loss of 7.5%. Thatmay seem like a small percentage, but in heavy seas, theboat will be noticeably slower to maneuver. The otheroption recommended by Bayview Propeller was todecrease the gear ratio which would then allow installa-tion of a smaller-diameter prop.

gains of as small as 1 mph required on these boats.) Deal with a reputable shop and understand the

exchange and adjustment policies before you buy. Manyprop shops will either rent you a prop to try or sell you oneon the understanding that if it doesn’t meet your expec-tions, it can be exchanged for a prop of another size.With any rental or exchange program, if you damage it,you buy it.

TRIAL AND ERRORPropellers are not cheap and you can spend a lot ofmoney before you get the right one. A computer analysiswill avoid most problems, suggesting a prop that’s perfect-ly matched for boats, other than custom boats, due to lackof prior data, or small high-performance powerboats.(With performance boats the prop will be the right one forthe boat, but the analysis doesn’t specify the fine-tuning

TROUBLESHOOTING••• — — — •••

ENGINE

11 TIPS FOR TROUBLE-FREE CRUISING

1 Run your engine once a week. This dissipates moisture,circulates the oil to protect internal engine parts andcharges the battery.

2 Warm up gasoline engines no longer than three min-utes at the dock. Running under load at a slow speedbrings the temperature up faster. Excessive cold idlingcauses oil dilution, air pollution and wastes fuel. Dieselsoperate better warm and should be run at idle speed for atleast 15 minutes before departing.

3 Check the battery electrolyte levels and top up with dis-tilled water as you need to. Clean the terminals and tightenthem with appropriate tools. Never disconnect a batterywhile the engine is running as it will cause the alternator toburn out.

4 Daily inspections when running the engine includechecking the engine oil and fuel levels and inspecting thebelts and cooling system for leaks. Keep a watchful eye ontemperature gauge and voltmeter readings.

5 Check engine water flow on start-up and periodicallyduring operation to ensure the water pump is working.

6 Regularly examine outboards and stern drives tobe sure there is no monofilament fishing line around thepropeller shaft seal which can cause oil leakage.

7 Periodically check hoses and hose clamps, all bolts,belts and fasteners and tighten and replace where neces-sary.

8 Routinely check the level of the oil reservoir on the insideof the transom found on some newer stern drives. Alsocheck the hydraulic steering fluid level.

9 Replace rusty outboard metal gas tanks which can clogfilters and carburetors, resulting in poor performance oreven failure to run.

10 Maintain a log of checks and repairs. Either buy aseparate log, incorporate the data with your cruising log,or write the information in a simple notebook that is kepton board.

11 Make a point of listening to and learning the soundsand “feel” of the engine, drive train and shift and throttlecontrols.

RIGGINGPOWERBOAT

UPGRADE TOHYDRAULICSTEERING

TOOLS

Assorted wrenchesScrewdriversSocket setVice gripsHammer and malletHex key setPrybarRags

Drivers of boats equipped withmechanical steering systems, espe-cially high-horsepower, high-speed,single-outboard boats, often wrestlewith the steering wheel to steer theboat. This is caused by torque. As thepropeller turns, the resistance it meetsin the water creates torque, whichfeeds back through the steering sys-tem to deliver a pronounced “pull” atthe wheel.

Outboard, stern drive or inboard-powered boats can virtually eliminatetorque feedback by upgrading to anhydraulic steering system. A low-maintenance system, hydraulic steer-ing is also highly responsive — theengine turns the instant the wheel isturned. This makes docking andmaneuvering easier and the boattracks straighter with minimal steeringeffort.

DIY spent an afternoon with RickFrank and Barb Taylor of BarrickEngines in Etobicoke, Ont.(416/798-8411), observing Rick ashe installed a Hynautic Hy-Trachydraulic steering system in a 5.4m(18’) Bass Cat. A former automotivemechanic, Rick specializes in servic-ing all makes of outboards — espe-

cially high-performance models — aswell as stern drives.

The high-priced bass boat wasrigged with a 200-hp Limited EditionJohnson and factory-equipped dualrack-and-pinion steering. Space limi-tations behind the dash, however,restricted the movement of the cables,causing them to seize when thewheel was turned hard over. OwnerBob Peters, a top-rated tournamentbass angler, needed to replace thecurrent setup and considered threesteering options: power, rotary andhydraulic.

Power steering was ruled outright away; it lacks the sensitivity nec-essary for high-speed control androbs engines of horsepower, losing 8to 10 mph at the top end. Mechan-ical rotary steering would deliver amarginal improvement in perfor-mance and the two helms in this dual-steering setup would fit neatly behindthe dash, but it would still requireupkeep of a mechanical system. Andas each rotary helm would cost $400anyway, Peters opted to spend $250more to gain the improved perfor-mance and handling of an hydraulicsystem. Hydraulic steering costs near-

ly twice as much as some mechanicalsystems, but requires little mainte-nance and will last the lifetime of theboat.

Hynautic Operations, a divisionof Morse Controls, and TeleflexMarine sell steering kits packagedwith everything you need for a refit.The Hy-Trac system installed in theBass Cat included 15m (50’) ofhydraulic hose, hydraulic fluid andmounting bolts to fit all enginebrands. Components accommodate awide range of dashboards andengines — helms mount infront of orbehind the dash and cylinders havereversible port or starboard hookup— but you may need to improvise.

Installation is easy for the homemechanic and requires only basichand tools. Rick completed the dual-steering installation in the Bass Cat inthree hours. However, unless you’veinstalled a system before, allow fouror more hours to complete the job,depending on your boat’s existingsteering setup and cockpit layout.

What follows is a general look atthe procedures for removing a dualrack-and-pinion steering unit andinstalling a Hy-Trac two-line hydraulic

Hy-Trac kitscontaineverythingneeded toinstall anhydraulicsteering system onmost boatsand engines.

RIGGINGPOWERBOAT

system. (For detailed instructions onremoving mechanical cables see ourPowerboat Rigging column in theSPRING ‘96 issue.) We recommendthat you read your installation manu-al carefully before beginning, particu-larly the air purge instructions — anyair in an hydraulic system can causesteering malfunction.

Remove the plug in the center ofthe steering wheel using ascrewdriver or prybar. Unscrewthe 5/16” nut under the plugwith a wrench. (You may need

an impact gun to loosen it.) There aretwo ways to remove the wheel: Rentor borrow a steering wheel puller, orrecruit a friend to pull the wheelstraight up, lifting evenly on bothsides of the wheel, while you hit theshaft with a mallet. One good smackshould pop off the wheel. Next pryoff the bezel.

Remove the three bolts (someunits have four) and self-lockingnuts that hold the helm. Lightlypull down the steering racks

from behind the dash. Do this careful-ly as racks are a popular place to fas-ten other wires. Use side-cutting pliersor wire cutters to remove all theattached cable ties. Remove the eightbolts that hold the two racks. (A sin-gle-cable system has one rack andfour bolts.) Remove all cable tiesattached to the steering cables.

Disconnect the steering cables atthe engine by removing the nutson the cable ends and thedraglink bolt. Attach vice gripsto the cable and bang with a

hammer to extract the cable from thetilt tube. When there’s not enoughclearance between the tilt tube andsplashwell to draw out the cable,place a metal punch or rod on thecable end and hammer away, bend-ing the cable as necessary. (If youprefer to keep the mechanical cables,the engine must be removed.) Tape arope messenger line to the cables atthe dash and slowly pull from thetransom. Cables may snag, often onother wires, and feeding is easier onboats with unrestricted gunwaleaccess.

Now you’re ready to install thenew system. Use the suppliedtemplate — our kit came withoutone, so we used the trim ring —2

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to trace the 4-1/2” cutout for thehelm. On a black dash, use a colormarker or etch the line with an awl.

To make the large circular cut,Rick drilled a series of holes witha 1/4” drill. Ream the holes sothey connect and the cutoutpiece will fall out easily. Lay the

template (or trim ring) over the holeand file the edge, if necessary, toensure a tight fit. Smooth the edgewith a file. If your dash is flat (ourswasn’t) you can use a jigsaw, butcover the underside of the base platewith masking or electrical tape so youdon’t scratch the dash. Rememberwhen you’re drilling into fiberglass towear safety glasses and a dust mask.

Insert the helm from behind thedash, back side facing out andproperly oriented so that whenit’s mounted correctly (right sideout) it will be straight and the fill

plug on top. Drill the four mountingholes. Before continuing, vacuum the

area to remove all fiberglass dust andresidue. Ensure that the protectivecaps on the helm, cylinder and hoseends remain in place to prevent dirtfrom entering the system.

Remove the helm, reinsert it fromthe rear of the dash with theshaft facing out, place the trimring over the dash, insert fourcarriage bolts and hand tighten.

Slide the wheel over the helm and

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thread the nut on loosely. You’ll cen-ter the wheel with the engine afteryou install all the components.Securely tape the hydraulic hose tothe messenger line at the dash and,with someone feeding the cable atthe helm, pull it through to the tran-som. Check your manual for the cor-rect placement of the factory-installedbrass ends on the hose. These fittingsconnect to the helm on our Hy-Tracsystem. To run two hoses together, aswe did, fold the single hose in half,form a loop, secure it with tape, thenattach the messenger line to the loop.Mark the port hose with tape at bothends.

Remove the extra mounting tubeand bracket (on dual- steeringsetups only). Now mount thecylinder bracket to the front ofthe engine using the specified

bolts. Remove the old draglink, bolton the draglink bracket applying aspare coating of Loctite (supplied inthe kit) on the threads, then attach thenew draglink. Fasten the cylinder tothe bracket with Allen screws. Use ascrewdriver or rod to pull the cylinderram so it aligns with the draglink andattach the nut loosely.

Measure the length of thehydraulic hose, then add anextra 1.2m (4’) to allow forerror and to simplify thehookup. Use a sharp utility knife

and cut the hose squarely. Removeany burr on the inside edge of thehose and lubricate with a speciallyformulated hose oil, or you can sub-stitute automatic transmission fluid —any other lubricant is not compatible

8 9

MAINTAININGHYDRAULICSTEERING

A hydraulic system requires onlygeneral maintenance and willnever rot, break or seize. A fewsimple maintenance steps shouldensure long-lasting operation.

• Check the fluid level at the helm regularly. If it’s low, fill witha hydraulic-steering fluid recom-mended by the manufacturer. The oil should fill to just belowthe threads of the filler cap.

• Visually check all fittingsaround the helm and cylinderassembly for oil leaks. Turn thewheel hard over in both direc-tions to pressurize the system.Check for leaks at all line connections.

• Inspect the helm pump andcylinder for possible seal wear as indicated by oil leakage.Where a leak is evident, contactyour dealer for servicing.

• Check hoses for leaks, chafingor other visual signs of wear.

• Apply grease to all moving partsbetween the steering system andengine using a marine-grade water-proof grease.

• Periodically spray all exposedcomponents with a water- displacinglubricant/protectant.

• When the system is used in saltwater, check for signs of corrosionand periodically wash down thecylinder assembly with soap andwater and wipe down the helm toavoid salt buildup.

• Occasionally take the wheel offand make sure the helm shaft is welllubricated with a marine grease orNever Seize. This prevents galvaniccorrosion between the wheel andshaft.

• If the steering seems mushy orslow to respond, or you hear a click-ing noise at the helm, check for airin the system and bleed, if necessary.

• Contamination of the hydraulicfluid is the most common cause ofsystem failure. Some manufacturersrecommend draining and replacingthe hydraulic fluid annually to prevent contamination.

with hydraulic systems. Following theinstructions, carefully screw on the two-part, self-locking brass hose fittings.Now, attach the hydraulic hose to theproper port and starboard fittings onthe helm and cylinder and tighten.Tighten the four carriage bolts holdingthe helm.

Clean the bleed fittings on thecylinder then slide the clear1/2” ID tubing over the nipples. Assemble the bleedkit following instructions.

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RIGGINGPOWERBOAT

Rick holds the container ofhydraulic fluid above thedash and slowly turns thewheel to port then star-board, five times per side.

As he continues turning, resistancedecreases and he can turn faster. Airand fluid exits through the clear tub-ing at the cylinder end.

When the air “burping”stops, right the container,remove the adapter fromthe helm unit, clean anyexcess oil with a paper

towel and reinstall the fill plug. Closethe bleed nuts at the cylinder andremove the clear tubing. Tighten thebleed nuts on the helm unit.

Check for leaks at all hoseconnections. Refer to themanual for draglink adjust-ment. Center the engine,

align the wheel, tighten the steeringwheel nut and insert the center plug.Pull any slack in the hose inside thegunwale and fasten to the wiring withcable ties.

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TOOLS

Assorted screwdriversDrill and bitsWrenches or socket setSealant

By Thomas Fogh

Upgrading a mainsheet traveller system is one of the easiest andmost rewarding improvements thatyou can make to your boat. A prop-erly functioning traveller adjustseasily to optimize sail trim forspeed and keep the helm in bal-ance, particularly in gusty windconditions. If the person who trimsthe traveller on your boat finds it difficult or uncomfortable to handle,

then you are a candidate for a trav-eller upgrade.

When it comes to upgrading atraveller, it’s important to look at theperformance advantages of an efficient traveller system. The mostobvious benefits are ease of sailtrim and helm balance. Whenyou’re sailing short-handed or withnon-sailors or family, the crew canmake regular adjustments to a prop-erly set up traveller, for optimumperformance, rather than leaving itin one position.

A very basic system consists ofa track, car, two adjustable trackstops and track ends. Adding con-trol lines routed through blocks andcam cleats reduces friction and canincrease the purchase from 2:1 to

6:1, depending on the setup.Newer high-performance systemshave windward-sheeting travellercars. Such cars have integral cleatsmounted on the cars so they canbe pulled to windward withoutrequiring the leeward control lineto be released.

Upgrades can consist of simplyadding a few blocks to an existingsystem at a cost of $10 to $75.Many production boats come facto-ry equipped with a system that isadequate for light winds, but as thewind increases, the effort requiredto trim a traveller can be anexhausting workout for some crew.Traveller controls should be power-ful enough to move the car easilyunder all loads and be locatedwhere the helmsperson or crew canoperate them conveniently.

Quick and inexpensiveimprovements include: installing aspring (smaller boats) or a stand-uptoggle (larger boats) to hold themainsheet block in an upright posi-tion; mounting fairleads on cleats tohelp cleating and uncleating atsharper angles; or leading controllines under the dodger to cam cleats(Figure 1). You can improve basicsystems with the addition of a newcar and end stops designed for acontinuous-line system (Figure 2). Ifyour boat is equipped with such asystem and remote cleating, addingswivel cam cleats will facilitate cleat-ing from practically anywhere in thecockpit. Should you decide toremove the old track and install anentirely new system, you have theoption of adding all the above fea-tures, depending on the setup.

Where the traveler in mounted on the cabin top, leadthe control lines under the dodger to cam cleats mounted on one side. For travelers mounted behind thehelmsperson, lead the control lines forward, along thecockpit seat backs to cam cleats on each side.

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UPGRADING MAINSHEET TRAVELLER SYSTEMS

Figure 1

DODGER

traveller can be adjusted from various positions in thecockpit.

An aft-mounted traveller, where the traveller isbehind the tiller or wheel, is not as popular these days asit once was. There are two options here for increasedperformance. The first is to move the entire system for-ward, if possible. If this is not desirable, then considerremote cleating, where the control lines lead forwardalong the cockpit seat backs to a cleat that is withinreach of the helmsperson or mainsheet trimmer. Havinga continuous-line system allows the leeward side to beuncleated so the traveller is easily pulled to windward,when necessary.

Cockpit traveller systems are the most common typefor smaller boats. Some models have cleats mounted onthe traveller cars. This setup can be difficult to uncleatwhen the crew is sitting on the windward (high) side. Amore common solution is to lead the control lines verticallyup from the car to a turning block and cam cleat mountedon each side of the cockpit seat back. (Figure 3). Thisallows the crew or helmsperson to trim the traveller whilesitting on the high side without having to reach in to

There are three basic ways to mount a traveller: onthe cabin house, behind the helmsperson (aft mounted)and in the cockpit. For cabin house-mounted travellers,the remote cleating setup (Figure 1) is one that is com-monly used. Such systems usually do not allow thehelmsperson to trim the traveller; this setup requires acrewmember to be in charge of traveller adjustments. Thecontrol line is usually lead to the aft edge of the cabinhouse; however, this makes trimming difficult for peoplesitting on the rail. By installing swivel cam cleats the

Figure 2

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A continuous-line systemwith a 3:1 purchaseimproves performanceand handling.

RIGGINGSAILBOAT

grab the line or struggle to cleat it. Mounting control- linecleats correctly is critical. If they’re not angled correctly,the operator may have to lean in to release the controlline, or cleat it with a foot. Do a dry run and execute allmaneuvers before drilling fastener holes.

When you install a completely new traveller system,the track you select will depend on the size of your boatand configuration of the deck and cabin house. Most pre-drilled travellers use 10.1cm (4”) hole spacing on thetrack, allowing you to use the original holes drilled in thedeck for your old traveller. (European track and boatshave marginally wider hole spacing.) Installation involvessimply removing the old track, bolting the new one to thedeck and bedding the fasteners in a marine-grade poly-sulfide sealant. Various screwdrivers, a drill and bits, andwrenches or a socket set are the only tools you’ll require.

Some pre-1985 tracks (Nicro-Fico and others), don’tfit this standard hole pattern. If you cannot find a trackwith a similar bolt pattern, you have two options: Fill theholes with epoxy and redrill, or purchase a sliding-bolt

In a cockpit system, control lines lead vertically up from thecar to turning blocks and cam cleats mounted on each sideof the cockpit seat back.

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Figure 4

Continous-line travellerwith adjustable controlline cleats can be fittedfor purchases up to6:1.

track. Sliding-bolt tracks from Lewmar Marine have novisible fasteners; instead, the bolt heads slide in agroove on the underside of the track. This lets you retrofita new track using any bolt-hole pattern without havingto match the original fastener holes. Bent tracks or oneswith compound curves can be easily custom-orderedfrom your dealer.

There are numerous ways of setting up a new trav-eller. Once you select the desired track and placement,factor in the number and physical strength of your crewand their personal preferences, then set some prioritiesfollowing basic principles: 1) the line must lead to theperson trimming the traveller; 2) there must be enoughpurchase to allow the mainsail to be trimmed while sail-ing to windward, especially in heavy air, without unduestrain on the trimmer; 3) proper-size blocks and line mustbe used to minimize friction and maximize purchase(check with your dealer or the traveller manufacturer).When you purchase traveller components, follow thissimple rule: the bigger the block, the smaller the line, theeasier a traveller system operates.

There are few upgrades on a boat that are as inex-pensive, simple and rewarding as improving a main-sheet traveller and line controls. While these are typicaltraveller installations, use them as a starting point. Thetype of sailing you do and the setup of your boat willdetermine which installation is best suited to your needs.No matter what traveller you choose, the end result isalways the same — a properly functioning traveller willsave you time and muscle-power on the water.

Thomas Fogh is manager of Toronto-based North Marineand has sailed competitively in Optimists, Lasers and Laser2s, Solings and Tornados, in which he placed second at the1992 Olympic trials. He a member of the Canadian SailingTeam and is currently campaigning a Soling for a spot onthe 1996 Olympic team with his father Hans and John Kerr.

TYPICAL PRICESTraveller Setup Abbott 22 C&C 41

Continuous Line w/ $500 $900cleats on end stops

Remote Cleating $600 $900

Cockpit System $450 $1,000

Need MoreShelves?

Don’t overlook existing wall space.Here, the carpenter in you can reallystrut your stuff. Between sink andwindow, over the stove and counter,there is often space for an attractiveand highly functional shelf. Make itlong or make it short, make it foldwith a hinge and support straps or

tion, consider making a cutting boardto fit over the sink (1). Cut a slot or ahole near the back edge of theboard, place a bowl in the sinkunder the slot and you have a ready-made compost catcher. If the stovedoes not already have a drop-downcover over the elements, create addi-tional work space by adding anothercutting board overtop (2). Supportthe board with rubber-tipped cleatstock so it sits above the elements.

Still need more work space?Extend an existing countertop byadding a fold-down table (3) thatattaches to the counter with a pianohinge. Or cut a rectangular slot inthe facer board below the counterand install a pull-out cutting board(4). The top drawer is commonlyused for cutlery and other odds andends. Consider adding a lightweight,3mm-thick (1/8”) masonite cover or,better still, a see-through acryliccover (5). Lay the cover on 6mm(1/4”) side supports and add a fin-ger hole near the front and a light-duty piano hinge on the back edge.When this lid is down it helps pre-vent unwanted crumbs from fallinginto the drawer and doubles as anextra countertop. On smaller boatswithout a utensil drawer, make awooden holder with dividers for cut-lery and mount it vertically on thecountertop or on the inside of a cupboard door.

Whether it’s small orlarge, new or old, agalley’s convenience,functionality and safety are of prime importance.

By Sheilah van Nostrand

alleys on most boats aremediocre, at best. Consideringtheir cramped quarters and

limited counter and storage space,cooks have good reason to mutiny.While the compactness of a boat’sgalley does place everything near athand, boat designers often overlookthe necessities that can transform agalley into an efficient food-prepara-tion center.

Among the main requirementsare that the galley be accessible, safeand make meal preparations fasterand simpler. Beyond those basicassumptions, your galley can be tai-lored to your specific needs. Forexample, a galley for a singlehanderwill require less workspace than onefor a family of four. The galley offersall sorts of possibilities for the adven-turous do-it-yourselfer.

Add a Counteror Two

As most boats lack sufficient counterspace in the galley for food prepara-

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Recipes for Great

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Stash the Trash

Now that the meal is in progress,what are you going to do with all the

make it fixed. Fixed shelves aremore convenient if you add a remov-able fiddle (6) high along the frontof each shelf to prevent the contentsfrom sliding off and soaring throughthe cabin while the boat is underway. This is a handy location for fre-quently used dry goods, such assugar, coffee, tea, and so on, whichyou can store in plastic peanut butter

jars or coffee tins paintedor wallpapered to matchthe decor. Use strips ofVelcro to store the removable fiddleon the underside of the shelf whenit’s not needed. Spice jars stow neat-ly in a drawer near the stove (7).Install plywood dividers in the draw-er at an angle to separate the con-tents and so the jars lean forward.

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converted into a recycling garbagebin (8b). Insert four plastic bins heldby wire racks to hold newspapers,bottles, plastic and cans.

Speaking of plastic bags, thereare some inexpensive plastic-bagholders of various shapes and sizeson the market — or you can makeyour own out of wood, plastic, clothor PVC (9). Cut 38mm (1-1/2”) pipeto fit the space, join the piecestogether with 90° elbows and PVCcement, then stretch a plastic bagover the holder.

CupboardConversions

If you’ve moved a ton of stuff fromyour home kitchen to the less-than-adequate galley, you may be won-dering where you’re going to store itall. For a start, explore the possibili-ties of converting existing cupboards.Dishes, for example, are easily storedin cupboards (10). Place a plate orbowl in a cupboard so it touches theback wall and one side wall. Cut twoor three lengths of 6mm or 9mm(1/4” or 3/8”) dowel slightly longerthan the stack of dishes is high, butstill short that you can remove threedishes at a time. Place the dowelingvertically against the dishes, spacedas necessary to hold them in place,then drill holes the same diameter asthe doweling about half way into thebottom of the shelf. Glue the dowelpieces securely in place. This systemprevents dishes from thrashing

wrappings and trimmings? No problem! Just lift the lid on yourin-counter garbage disposal unit(8a) and drop the garbage in.Some boats have a corner cupboardunder the counter which is very diffi-cult to get at and not very functionalor efficient. Buy an appropriatelysized plastic container, then cut ahole the same diameter as the con-

tainer in the countertop over thisdead space. Glue on some cleatstock so the lip of the basket restsbelow counter level. The lid can behinged for added convenience, orleft loose and simply removed with afinger hole or a handle. Use plasticshopping bags as liners for yourcontainer. A deep drawer is easily

around yet allows for easy access.Keeping the dishes to the back of thecupboard provides space at the frontfor a plastic revolving spice rackmounted on the inside of the cup-board door. In another cupboard,trim the upper shelf back and attacha permanent fiddle (11). Use thelower shelf for plastic mixing bowlsand storage containers. On theinside of the door, buy or make aholder for pot lids (12) or hang thelids on the insides of cupboard doorswith light line or shock cord (13).

If you have enough space —and we’re talking 12.7cm (5”) max— add a pull-out pantry in the end ofan existing counter (14). And some-where at the back of the counter oron the cabin sides, you should find aniche for a small teak or acrylic glassrack (15).

NO SURPRISE

PACKAGES

Using a permanent marker,write the contents of contain-ers, as well as the date thefood was packaged, on apiece of tape, then stick thetape to the container. This willreduce search time and helpensure that you use the foodbefore it spoils.

TIPS

SAVINGENERGY

To reduce the swing-ing-door syndrome at meal-

times, store like foods such assalad fixings, fresh veggies,meats, cheeses, fruits andcondiments together in large,shallow plastic trays beforetransferring them to the fridge,ice box or cooler. When youneed them, you can quicklyremove only the necessary con-tainers, then repack and returnthem after use.

TIPSGALLEYS

STORAGE TIPS

Tin cans are always a problembecause of their weight and bulk. It’sa good idea to stow them low. Thebottom shelf of the pantry (14), bot-tom drawer near the sink (16) orunder a galley seat are ideal loca-tions. If you’re storing tins in the

bilge, first remove their labels andidentify the contents of each tin bywriting on it with a waterproof mark-er. Pots and pans are also bulky andheavy and should be stored low.Camping stores carry an interestingarray of stackable cooking pots withremovable handles that take up verylittle space.

FUEL FORTHOUGHTOne of the most important steps infurnishing this repast, of course, iscooking it. Stoves should bedesigned, manufactured andapproved for marine use andyou’ll find a variety of alcohol,kerosene, propane (LPG), compressed natural gas (CNG) orelectric stoves available for use onboats.

Electricity is likely the safestsource of heat for cooking aboardbut, of course, you’ll need shorepower or an auxiliary generator.Pressurized alcohol is probably theleast safe-fuel. It has scantdetectable odor, demonstrates littleor no color to its flame, and islighter than water and thereforeable to float on top of it. Alcohol,like kerosene, also has a tendencyto flare up unexpectedly. Theexception is Origo’s line of non-pressurized alcohol stoves. TheseSwedish-made stoves are safe andefficient. DIY’s editor replaced anolder kerosene stove with anOrigo 3000 and, except for thesometimes messy filling of the fuelcanisters, it’s been a convenientand reliable “cooker.”

Propane and its safer cousin,natural gas, are the most widelyused fuels on larger boats.However, both present a serioussafety hazard if they’re notinstalled and operated in compli-ance with strict codes. Install afume detector with both fuels. Andremember that using a portable

stove with portable LPG or CNGbottles attached is prohibitedinside a boat with accommoda-tion. Stoves should be fitted withsplash-proof protectors. An exhaustvent or opening hatch (22) overthe stove helps get rid of cookingodors and keeps the cabin cooler.Do not store small propane cylin-ders or charcoal lighter fluid onboard. Charcoal should be storedin a sealed metal container to keepit dry and contain the highly com-bustible coal dust. Last but notleast, have fire extinguishers at theready, but away from the cookingappliance for safety’s sake (23).

Microwave ovens offer someonboard advantages over electricand fuel-powered stoves. Availablein a variety of sizes and wattageratings, microwaves reduce cook-ing time and emit much less heatinto the surrounding cabin. If yourboat has counter space availablefor a microwave, your only con-cern is the power supply. Boatsequipped with generators arehome-free; others must determinebattery consumption and add extrabatteries (if required) and an invert-er. Due to their size and weight,microwaves must be well securedand adequately ventilated. Whenchoosing a unit for marine use, it’sworth paying a little more for amodel with splash-resistant, touch-pad controls rather than knobs.Touch-pad controls are much moreresistant to moisture intrusion andtherefore less likely to cause problems, especially when boatingin salt water.

GALLEYSas salad fixings, meats, dairy prod-ucts, fruits or condiments, in plasticcontainers or trays. Remove drinks,lunch fixings and snacks for theentire day and store them in a small-er container or cooler to avoid hav-ing to continually open the maincooler. Extra blocks of ice (ratherthan cubes) will keep for severaldays in a separate cooler if the cool-er lid is sealed completely with ducttape, then placed in the coolest spotaboard.

CLEAN UP

Once the meal has been devoured,it’s time to clean up the mess.Returning to the countertop, add aplastic tote tray that sits on a pieceof non-skid rubber mat near the sinkand holds the dish soap, handsoap, a sponge and the sink stop-per. (Non-skid matting has 101 usesas shelf liners, between dishes,under glasses and as place mats.) Ifwall space or under-the-counterspace is limited, consider an uprightpaper towel dispenser (18) madewith a 3cm (1-1/2”) dowel, eitheron a stand or mounted directly onthe counter. Use a large plastic lidwrong-side up with a hole or “X” cutin the middle for the dowel to keepthe roll of towel raised off the coun-tertop. A plastic, collapsible dishrack (19) with an integral base forwater collection folds down to 6cm(2-3/8”) and occupies minimalspace in a cupboard. Hang a cou-ple of towel or dishcloth racks onthe inside or outside of a cupboarddoor or at the end of a counter(20). Attach odd-shaped items, such as a smallbroom and dust pan on decorativewire (21) and your clean-up appa-ratus is complete.

After all these renovations,alterations, repairs, revisions, addi-tions, improvements and modifica-tions... you deserve a night out atthe best gourmet restaurant intown!!

COOL SENSE Another major aspect of galleyprowess is managing food andrefrigeration. Ideally, the temper-ature for foods that spoil shouldbe between 1.1C and 4.4C(34F to 40F). Refrigerationworks best when the coolant isabove the food. So, in the cooleror ice box, use a container onside rails or a rack to hold iceabove the food. In a 12-volt orAC fridge with a freezer unit,conserve power by rotating plas-tic containers of ice or frozenbeverages between the freezerunit and the top shelf of thefridge. More effectiveness canbe obtained when the cooler isnot overcrowded and there isconstant air movement. Checkout your local camping store fora small fan called Fridge Mate.It runs on two D-cell batteries thatshould last a month or more andoccupies no more space on thebottom shelf than a jar of mus-tard.

Keep a food thermometer inyour cooler or fridge or purchaseone that provides a temperatureprobe to be taped strategically inan icebox, fridge or cooler whilethe digital readout remainsattached to the outside. Thisoption is particularly handy forbattery and/or AC-operatedunits. If the temperature risesabove 4.4C (40F), just turn thepower on and leave the doorclosed.

Have you ever wondered whycarrots, apples and other fruits andveggies are packaged in bags withholes? This is no fluke; the holes real-ly extend the freshness and quality ofproduce. Try using Ziploc vegetableand fruit bags with freshness “vents”that emulate the bags used by pro-duce growers. Fresh fruits and veg-gies (such as potatoes, carrots

onions, oranges, etc.) also need aircirculation to prevent rot and mildew.Open-weave baskets, nets or wirebaskets (17) hung in a cool airylocation are all suitable.

Consider preparing meals athome and freezing them. Thisreduces meal-preparation time at theboat and helps keep the ice boxcold. Store like foods together, such

EASY ID

When storingcans, jars or boxes

in a drawer, locker or undera dinette seat, label the topwith a waterproof marker foreasy identification and toreduce frustration when labelscome off. Remove labels fromall cans stored in the bilge toprevent clogging the bilgepump.

TIPS

KNOTTY KNOW-HOWONE ROUND, TWO FIGURE AND A HALF

We’ve includ-ed this knotfor ownersand crewmembers whoincorrectlybelay a cleat. Incorrect cleating can often cre-ate one of two problems: The line comes loosebecause it’s not locked with a figure eight knotor you cannot free it quickly because the firstturn of the line doesn’t wrap around the baseof the cleat. A good rule of thumb is: oneround turn, two figure eights and a half-hitchto hold it.