FEBRUARY 2014 `100

I N D I A ’ S F I R S T T R A V E L M A G A Z I N E

Eternal Regional Cuisines � The Jharkhand You’ve Never Seen The Chhattisgarh Experience � Contemporary Art To The Fore

TWO STEPS AHEADStunning Destinations To Refresh Your Heart & Mind

VOLUME 27 ISSUE 2

28ONE-STOP BEAUTYQuaint village life meets a vineyard, afort and hilltop temples in Akluj,Maharashtra. It’s perfect for aromantic getaway.

34PROUD CITADELSIndia and heritage are veritablesynonyms. For centuries, rulers andpatrons have built forts that havebraved the sands of time. As wecelebrate our 26th anniversary, wetake you to 26 forts that everyonemust visit at least once.

52UNSEEN JHARKHANDWe go deep into this yet-unspoiltstate to see a people and landscapesthat will come as a pleasant surprise.We present this beauty via photos.

62UNREVEALED WONDERYou’ve probably never heard ofPrashar Lake, the hidden gemsurrounded by lush mountains. It’s ascenic adventure you must undertake.

71COMPLETE CHHATTISGARHHere’s an indepth look at the mostvisited locations in this state, as wellas pointers on how you should planyour trip now.

Anchor

The Most Picturesque Forts In India | Unseen Jharkhand |Chhattisgarh Unlimited | The Tranquil Lake | History Comes Alive

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The rustic beauty andbounty of ChitrakoteFalls in Chhattisgarh

will draw you in

FEBRUARY 2014 3

12GASTRO TRAVELLER New menus and restaurants awaityou in some unlikely nooks of ourcities, with a plateful of cuisines.

14CURRENT CONCIERGE Comfort, luxury, great views and goodservice are at hand in some new andrefurbished properties. Book thatroom now.

22INQUISITIVE TRAVELLER There’s so much happening in themonth of February. We pick the mostinteresting deals and travel news.

88THE RUSTIC OBSERVER Ruskin Bond talks about a hilltopthat has some very interesting legendsattached to it.

89THE ART FILESAshoke Nag highlights the advent ofnew age artists and how they shapedthe contemporary art scene in India.

90THE EXPAT DIARIES Victoria Burrows on how travellinglets you meet interesting people,whom you stay in touch with.

91THE TRAIL ORGANISERArjun Majumdar lists the four easyor moderate treks that all trekkingenthusiasts should undertake.

92THE GYPSY CHRONICLESAbhishek Madhukar travels toGopalpur and finds some sights andsounds that most people overlook.

93THE INFORMEDGUESTBOOKVivek Pareek talks about the explicitsimplicity of a homestay.

96THE COOL TOOLSThese trendy gadgets are not just fun,but great companions for anyone wholikes to hit the road once in a while.

97SNOW STUNNERThe new Yamaha Apex SEsnowmobile is a machine that prowlsthe snow-laden trails.

98WEATHER-PROOFIt is the season to be outdoors, butyou need to take care of yourself.These grooming products will makesure your skin is well looked-after.

100JOURNEY COMPANIONSNew movies, music and apps that willelevate your journey.

104SUN, SAND & VACATION We take a short trip to Bali—withluxury beach resorts and all the localtourist sights you should take in.

108FRIENDS OF FAR LANDSDiscover India takes you on an AfricanLion Safari in Hamilton, Canada. It’sno less fun than the grasslands.

Gateway

Some Great Places, Ideas & Deals Await YouIn Almost Every Corner Of The Country

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ManifestoO P I N I O N S & O B S E R V A T I O N S

THE SENSE OF HEARINGOur Columnists Recount Their Most Acoustic Memories

ChestM A K E T H E M O S T O F T H A T J O U R N E Y

Essential Travel Reads | All-Weather GroomingSmart New Gear | Boost Your Entertainment On The Move

Nothing adds a touch of flair to a vacation quite like Moët & Chandon’s latest holiday accessory. Thisexquisite trunk, better known as the Moët Ice Impérial Summer Escape Trunk, actually transforms into a

bar-on-the-go at any holiday destination, be it a romantic rendezvous aboard a sun-drenched yacht, afull-blown beach party or even a chill session amidst pointy peaks, and ensures your party spirits stay

uplifted throughout. It houses 20 bottles of Moët Ice Impérial that can be enjoyed in any of the 24 largeglasses it can also stock, in addition to two removeable glass shelves, two ice buckets, and three

smartly-devised sections for ice cubes, garnishes and other accessories. P

Circumnavigate

Revisiting Scenic & Vibrant BaliAnimals Steal The Show In Hamilton, Canada

T H E W O R L D , F R O M T H E I N D I A N E Y E

Like us on FacebookGo to facebook.com/pages/Discover-India-Magazine/219485604732339

Follow us on TwitterGo to twitter.com and follow ourtravels at @DiscoverIndia25

EXPLORE OURSOCIAL SIDE...

4 FEBRUARY 2014

VICTORIA BURROWSInternational travel and food writer

for a number of journals

ARJUN MAJUMDARExpert trekker, blogger and founder

of Indiahikes

ABHISHEK MADHUKARPhoto journalist who covers travel,

culture and social affairs

01/02/2014

RUSKIN BONDPadma Bhushan and one of India’s

most celebrated writers

ASHOKE NAGReputed contemporary art critic,

commentator and journalist

First off, I must thank all the readers—and even casual glance-throughers—of

Discover India for the overwhelmingly positive response to our January cover story on the Jewellery Trail. A lot of you have appreciated the golden colour we have used to frame the picture although, I must admit, we were a little concerned about breaking our vintage DI whiteframe. But then, because the issue marked our 26th Anniversary, it made sense to infuse a bit of celebration via a solid colour.

This month, and every month hereafter, we’re going to have a 26-themed story in the magazine. Not because we’re full of ourselves, but because you’d expect us to mark this milestone by doing more than just a single special issue. For February, we have chosen the 26 forts every Indian must visit. You’re bound

to have seen some of them already, but you’d do well to plan a family holiday to one of the others. I can guarantee it’ll make for a great vacation.

There are also some unique destinations that our writers and photographers have outlined for you. From hidden lakes in Uttarakhand to small but hospitable towns in Maharashtra, there’s something for everyone, regardless of whether you like to rough it out on the trail or whether you’d like a quiet and luxurious getaway. Not to forget our Special Feature on Chhattisgarh, a state that has so much to offer in terms of cultural history and natural beauty. We cover the best tourist sites this central Indian state has to offer, and I’m sure you’ll plan a trip sometime in the near future. Another article that we’ve spent considerable time putting together is a photo-feature on the unseen parts of Jharkhand which, again, will force you to rework your perception ofwhat this state—like this magnificent country—has to offer.

The year 2014 has started off well for us here at Discover India, and I lookforward to your comments and suggestions as we move forward. It’s only because of your continued feedback that we have been able to get better and become moreambitious in our editorial endeavours. And, as always, if there’s some destination that you’ve been to and would like others to know about, please do write in. Travelling is a community, and experiences only make the path easier for our fellow travellers.

VIVEK PAREEKEditor

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Creative DirectorBIPIN KUMAR

Senior Sub-EditorSAMONWAY DUTTAGUPTA

Assistant Art DirectorMUKESH KUMAR

Editorial ConsultantYANA BANERJEE-BEY

Contributing DesignersSACHIN JAIN (Deputy Art Director)AJAY KUMAR (Assistant Art Director)

SUJIT SINGH (Senior Visualiser)

Editorial AssistantKANCHAN RANA

PRODUCTIONSUNIL DUBEY (Deputy General Manager),

DINESH MASIH, BRIJESH JUYAL (Pre-Press Executives)

SALES & MARKETINGJYOTIE RATHOD (National Sales Head)

RUPAL SHUKLA (New Delhi) 0124 4759688HIMANSHU SHRIVASTAVA (Mumbai) 022 42467777

SUJIT BOSE (Kolkata) 033 22874298 D KARTHIK (Chennai) 044 28141816JOY TALAPATRA (Bengaluru) 080 22219578 P.P.S. MARWA (Lucknow) 0522 2780754

NEERAJ RAWAT Manager (Marketing)

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SONYA CAROLINE SHAH Manager (Human Resources)

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ASHISH SAWHNEY (Manager, Subscriptions)Regional Managers SATHYA NARAYANA T S (South)

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PresidentXAVIER COLLACO

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Financial ControllerPUNEET NANDA

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Discover India is published by Media Transasia Ltd. 1205, Hollywood Centre, 223 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong.

Tel: (852) 28153111; Fax: (852) 28511933; Editorial email: discoverindia@mtil.bizEntire contents Copyright © 2013 Media Transasia Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in anylanguage in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Requests for permission should be directed to

Media Transasia (India) Pvt. Ltd. Opinions carried in Discover India are the writers’ and not necessarilyendorsed by Media Transasia (India) Pvt. Ltd or the publishers. The publisher assumes no responsibility for

return of unsolicited material unless accompanied by sufficient return postage. Nor is it responsible formaterial lost or damaged in transit. All correspondence regarding advertising or editorial should be addressed

to Media Transasia (India) Pvt. Ltd., 323, Udyog Vihar Phase IV, Gurgaon—122016, Haryana, India.Tel: 0124 4759500, Fax: 0124 4759550

I N D I A’ S F I R S T T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E

GOES DIGITAL!Get India’s first travel

magazine on your iPad, your tablet or your smartphone with our digital edition.

With destinations, experiences, expert tips and incredible

photos, you’ll be able to plan your next holiday in a snap. Log on and buy your copy

today at...

www.magzter.com/discoverindia

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.

ABHISHEK GUPTAPHOTOGRAPHERAfter spendingseveral years in

Africa as aprofessional

photographer,Abhishek came

home to Jharkhand.He captures its

unexplored parts andshows us how much

it has to offer.

Contributors

DIVYA DUGARWRITER

Divya is a publishedauthor, documentary

filmmaker and atravel writer-

photographer. Whennot travelling or

making plans to doso, she loves to

spend time with herthree dogs. She

takes us to the 26best forts in India.

YANA BANERJEE-BEY

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTYana is an

accomplishedtraveller, havingscaled peaks and

worked at theworld’s largest

sporting events.She’s also been an

editor for more thantwo decades.

BINDU GOPAL RAOWRITER

A cost accountantwith an MBA, Bindu

feels that travelwriting gives her anopportunity to meeta variety of peopleand allows her to

explore new places,all of which makesjourneys even morefulfilling. She takesus on a trip to Akluj.

ABHILASHA SIHAGWRITER

Abhilasha says she is“cool and positive”and is quick with asmile. She loves to

travel and cook,and is a regular

contributor to thegizmos section of DI.

ADITYA GUPTAWRITER

Aditya has a businessin home fashionproducts, and hispassion for designmakes him work

closely with clientsaround the world ondesign issues. He isfond of architecture,

travel andphotography. He

writes on Bali.

RUPALI DEANWRITER

Rupali has a passionfor all things good in

life—travel, food,books, plays, films,

photography,Champagne, the

joys of a spa... andvery smartly has

converted this into aprofession. She is a

regular foodreviewer for DI.

SAHIL MOHANGUPTAWRITER

A manic technologyjournalist who is

always wired to thetee, Sahil is currently

the head of onlineoperations at My

Mobile. He is also asound engineer andblues guitarist, and aregular contributorto our apps section.

8 FEBRUARY 2014

Amazing IllustrationsI am an avid reader of most travelmagazines, so I do come across eachmagazine’s Anniversary edition. I like theway Discover India celebrated its specialissue with a ‘Pop Art’ essay. Theillustrations were stunning and showed that

a lot of thought had gone into them,especially with regard to the vintage chartsand designs. I liked the idea immenselyand I think it would be a good idea for youto issue prints. I can certainly see myselfputting up one of these illustrations in mystudy or living room.SUJIT SINGH Mumbai

Charmed By ChangeI have not been a reader of Discover India,but an issue landed on my desk inDecember. Since then, I have revisited allyour old issues online and bought most ofthem. Your content is quite different fromthe other travel magazines, and you don’t

try too hard to pander to this trend ofcelebrities and luxury. I especially likeyour list features, like the one you carriedin your January 2014 issue. Whatimpressed me was the choice ofdestinations, which were rather uncommonand places I would like to visit. NETRA SHARMA Bengaluru

An Artist’s JoyI want to thank Discover India forintroducing a column on contemporary artand I hope it will be a regular feature.Being an artist, it’s a pleasure to readsomething on the subject, because most

articles tend to be about the business of artin terms of money. Plus, if the piece iswell-researched and well-written, it is justthat much more welcome.SAMBUDDHA DUTTAGUPTA New Delhi

Exquisite LakeLake Kawaguchi and its surrounding areaseemed like an artist’s impression of Japan,until I realised that they were actuallyphotographs. This was just the push I needed to take my family to this place. I went there with my parents two decadesago, and I would like my children to see itfor themselves. They’re also excited afterseeing the beautiful photos thataccompanied the article. You’ve given us anunintended family vacation!VIDYUT MALHOTRA Gurgaon

DI COORDINATES

Physical mail: Discover India, Media Transasia India Ltd, 323 Udyog Vihar Phase IV, Gurgaon—122016;Facsimile: +91-124-4759550; Email: DiscoverIndia@mtil.bizFOR SUBSCRIPTIONS Call +91-124-4759616/17, +91-9899414369 or email circulation@mtil.biz

The Jewellery TrailWhenever I travel, the first thing on my mind is shopping. I like tobuy locally-made clothes, artifacts and jewellery, of course. I did not

expect to find a story like the one Discover India has featured on the bestplaces to buy jewellery in India. The story was quite informative and theaccompanying photos were very well-produced. I’m looking forward to

more such stories in your magazine. Also, I am sure there are manywomen like me, and we would love to see a regular section on jewellery

and clothes in your magazine. DIVYA SINGH New Delhi

Missives W E G O W I T H Y O U R F L O W

10 FEBRUARY 2014

Gateway

Some Great Places, Ideas & Deals Await YouIn Almost Every Corner Of The Country

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With clean lines and seating that hasa welcoming touch, this outlet is

none too traditional in its décor. Owner-founder Zorawar Kalra’s answer toupdating Indian food has been to plate itartfully, applying science to cooking andadding innovative ingredients. The

amuse-bouche, the ‘wild rice sev puri onthe go’ served in a pretty rickshaw, wasnovel and yet followed a familiar format,with shades of street food flavours. TheThalassery rasam, steamed basadumpling, dosai tuile, pinenut pattice,ragda hummus, feta salad anddeconstructed pav bhaji stoke yourappetite with unique flavours.

I threw myself upon the dessert traywith abandon. Not that I needed anexcuse to sample the Jalebi caviar withsaffron glaze and pistachio rabri, a tray

of childhood memories, and thecrowning glory—Ghewar cheese cake—which was utterly spongy,decadent, rich. Address Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra,Ground Floor, First International FinancialCentre (CITI BANK Building), G Block,Opp. Sofitel Hotel,Bandra-Kurla Complex, Bandra (E),Mumbai—400051Timings Open for lunch and dinnerMeal for two `2,500, without alcoholReservations 022 6642 4142

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The decor, ambience andservice conjure up the

warmth of an Italian home.The restaurant includes ashow kitchen with twosingle-compartment wood-fired ovens, portico seatingand a bar area. Enjoy yourmeal indoors or on theopen deck with thebackdrop of a busy pizzaoven. To whet the appetite,

a platter of bruschetta, aselection of fish croquettes,wood-fired, oven-roastedasparagus with taleggiocrumbs, spicy salami andred onion pizza, andhomemade Italian bread are perfect.

The pasta dishes andmains do not disappoint andsome, such as the spinachand ricotta ravioli and grilled

tenderloin with peppersauce, are outstanding. Thepan-fried mackerel is aseafood lover’s dream andleaves you wanting more.Save room for the heavenlytiramisu, made from home-made mascarponecheese which enhances itsflavour. The restaurant hasall the perfect ingredients formemorable dining! If I had to

pick one restaurant out ofthe myriad of excellentchoices in Pune, this wouldcertainly top the list.

Address La TerrazzaTrattoria, Hyatt Regency,Weikfield IT Park, PuneNagar Road, Pune—411014Timings Open for lunch and dinnerMeal for Two `2,500approximately, without alcoholReservations020 6645 1400

ITALIAN WARMTH AND FLAVOURLa Terrazza Trattoria in Pune has excellent ambience as well as food.

CREATIVE FOOD AMID CLASSY CHICMasala Library by Jiggs Kalra, Mumbai, reinvents Indian food.

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GatewayGASTRO TRAVELLER

CROSS-CULTURAL RECIPES

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CULINARYODYSSEY FORINDOPHILES

Copper Point, Chennai, offers ajourney through traditional

kitchens across India. The menuoffers delicacies from the southernstates of Tamil Nadu, Kerala andKarnataka as well as tandoori andMughlai cuisine. For starters, trythe Vasantha Neer, a refreshingdrink made with tender coconut,honey, lime and chopped malaiflavoured with mint. They have avariety of spiced seafood andflavoursome kebabs and a rangeof soups as well. The restaurant

offers a good mix for vegetariansand non-vegetarians and hassome unique dishes like Subzi kaMela, the Kashmiri GoshtRoganjosh and Meen Moilee, atraditional Kerala fish-based dish.A must-try is appam with stewand Kozhi Varutha Kozhambu.Indulge your sweet tooth with theElaneer Payasam, made withfresh tender coconut, and theFalooda Kulfi. Address 120, Sir ThyagarayaRoad, GRT Grand, Chennai—600 017Timings 12.30 pm to 3pm;7.30 pm to 11.30 pmMeal for two `1,200 plus taxesapproximatelyReservations 044 2815 0500

This is a Chinese restaurant atwhich you must let yourself go

and eat until your senses aresatiated. The cooking and flavoursdeserve it. The first piece of adviceI have is that Chinese soup-loversshould not miss the chicken andmushroom clear soup here. It is arefreshing, clear and tangy delight.Also try the ever-popular andtraditional hot and sour soup. Thedimsums in this restaurant areequally a must-have, as they are afine representation of the excellentquality that the kitchen upholds. Atmost places, the dimsum dishestend to be centred around the usualingredients. However, what makesthe difference is the creative use ofthese ingredients by the chef. Thisis what brings in the element ofsurprise, breaks the taste andencourages the diner to sample some more.

Other must-tries include theBeijing roast duck, the pan-friedpomfret with soy and ginger, and the BBQ spare ribs. When youare done, go for the desserts. Theyrange from oriental delights to the dependable ice-creams. For atypical oriental, refreshing sweetending, opt for the steamed coconut and cashew parcels, which are decadent to the core!

A good selection of beverages(with a nice wine list that includesPinot Grigio, Riesling and so on)complements the meal. There are nomediocre dishes here and the serviceis impeccable.Address WelcomHotel Dwarka, PlotNo. 3, Sector 10, District Centre,Dwarka, New Delhi—110001Timings 8–11.30 pmMeal for Two `2,500 plus taxes Reservations 011 4222 9222

FULFIL YOUR CHINESE CRAVINGShanghai Club, New Delhi, has no mediocre dishes.

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From your arrival inthe grand foyer, setamongst eight acres

of luscious green andwaterbodies, with itsregally columnedverandahs, you will beswept into another world.The hotel spells luxury andexclusivity in a theme thatruns through every roomand facility. At theDevarana Spa, along withthe standard spa fare, thereis a pervasive influence ofThai traditions—evident inthe Thai ambience, staffand treatments. On offer isa wide range of relaxing,rejuvenating, and holistictreatments administered by

skilled therapists. Top-class restaurants andbars are a highlight at theproperty and provide anunmatched mealexperience. Kiyan offersthe very best in worldcuisine, with farm-freshproduce, authenticity intaste and picture-perfectplatters. Lah bar has aselect ‘young’ fare, offeringtrendy mixology options,boutique brewery beersand new-age wines. Theambience, music andservice reflect thefashionable yet no-fussattitude of today.

Kai, the signatureMichelin starred-restaurant,

is the world-renownedcontemporary take onChinese cuisine and ismatched only by theopulence of its outdoormarquee setting. Dusitprovides a superlative stayexperience for guests.Commencing with thesmile of the bell boy whoinsists on taking over yourluggage right at theentrance and going on tothe friendly receptionistwho checks you in, youwill love this place with itsThai slant on thecontemporary hotelexperience. The accent iscertainly on service of thehighest quality.

TRENDY, CLASSY & FUSS-FREEDusit Devarana New Delhi offers Thai charm with modern exclusivity.

NAVIGATORAddress Dusit Devarana New Delhi,Samalkha, NH-8, New Delhi—110037

By Air 10 minutes’ drive from the airport.

By Rail New Delhi railway station isan hour’s drive away.

By Road Located between New Delhiand Gurgaon, it is well-connected

by taxis.

Price Factor `20,000 per night,inclusive of breakfast and transfers.

Reservations 011 3015 8656

GatewayCURRENT CONCIERGE

Pride Sun Village Resort & Spa, Goa, is plush and indulgent.

Located close to NorthGoa’s happeningBaga beach and its

markets and water sports,Pride Sun Village Resort &Spa offers an indulgent andall-inclusive experiencewithin its landscapedenvirons. And, in keepingwith Goa’s ethos of sun, sandand surf, a statue of Helios,the Sun God of the ancientGreeks, welcomes you to the resort.

This resort blendsclassic, contemporary andlocal styles to highlight thespirit of Goa. All the 136air-conditioned and plush

suites come with high-endfacilities and the sprawlinghalf-acre lawn is a big draw.The restaurants—Hibiscus,Sunflower and Tonatiuh—offer an array of lip-smacking culinary delights.Each restaurant has its ownunique ambience andimpeccably-themed décor as well as goodgastronomic experiences.

There are also twoswimming poolscomplemented by a sun-bedded pool area as well asan exclusive spa that offersa variety of therapies with asalon for even more

pampering. A state-of-the-art gymnasium is alsoavailable for the fitness-conscious. A range ofevening entertainmentprogrammes is organisedwithin the resort and it alsooffers the convenience ofshopping at the nearbyShopping Arcade. State-of-the-art communicationssystems and presentationfacilities make the spaciousconference rooms ideal forseminars and workshops.So go ahead and plana luxurious workingholiday or a chilled-out, do-nothing break!

NAVIGATORAddress Saquwadi, Baga Arpora,

Calangute, Goa—403 518.

By Air Dabolim airport is the nearest.

By Rail Karmali is the nearestrailway station (11 km).

By Road Calangute is well-connected with major cities.

Taxis are also available fromPanaji and Madgaon.

Reservations 0832 226 9103

SUN, SAND AND SPA IN GOA

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Barefoot at Havelock,in the AndamanIslands, is a

refreshing delight: for thesheer promise of its name,for its recently-launchedAyurveda spa (the only oneof its kind on HavelockIsland), and for its plushrainforests andkaleidoscopic marine life.

The two-kilometrebeach (Beach No. 7) thatmarries soft, white sand torippling ombre waters hasnever failed to entice since2002, when the resort waslaunched by co-foundersSamit Sawhny, AshishGupta, Susheel Dixit andDeepak Govind under the

Barefoot group, a non-profitorganisation that promotestourism in the region.Reborn from the erstwhileJungle Resort, Barefoot atHavelock sprawls overseven acres of pesticide-and fertiliser-free groundsand houses 25 rooms.

In keeping with itstheme, the hotel does notoffer room service,television or telephones. Italso features an RO watertreatment plant thatsupplies water from anatural spring, therebyreducing plastic imports.

The property is builtwith locally-sourced naturalmaterial—wood, cane,

bamboo and thatch. Builton stilts, the Nicobari Suiteis architecturally designednot to require air-conditioning. There arethree other typesof cottages.

Guests can make diving(PADI-certified) trips,snorkel alongsideswimming elephants orcatch dinner in a dunghi.Walks with nature guidesare also organised. Or visitthe Ayurveda Centre. Plushluxury is unavailable herebut the peace of holidayingwithout disrupting natureand the enviroment go alonger way incleansing the soul.

LEAVING ONLY FOOTPRINTSBarefoot at Havelock, Andamans, is for those who value the environment.

NAVIGATORBy Air It is a 90-minute journey fromPort Blair airport. You are dropped to

the Havelock jetty from where a speedcatamaran departs at 8.45 am daily.

Price Factor `4,200-11,000 (lowseason, August-September); `9,500-

22,000 (peak season, December-January) for double occupancy (`500

less for single occupancy).

Reservations 09840238042; emailreservations@barefootindia.com/

reservations@barefoot-andaman.com;web barefoot-andaman.com

GatewayCURRENT CONCIERGE

The Thaneerhulla Heritage Bungalow, Coorg, is an old world experience.

Set amidst lush coffeeplantations, Coorg is aholiday destination

like none other. Add aheritage bungalow in thispeerless natural setting and aholiday here is guaranteed tobe a cherished memoryforever. The ThaneerhullaHeritage Bungalow, namedafter a beautiful pond, hasantiquated wooden flooringand a cosy fireplace that addsan old world charm to thisquiet haven 3,000 feet abovesea level.

History and heritageblend seamlessly with thepicturesque hills of theWestern Ghats and thearoma of coffee creating an

experience nonpareil. TataCoffee has beautifullyrestored the more than 100-year-old bungalow andguests have the option ofstaying in the ThaneerhullaRooms or the ThaneerhullaSuites. All the rooms comewith en suite bathroomsand personalised butlerservice. The five spaciousand airy rooms areappointed with Victorianfurniture, TV, Wi-Fi, hotand cold running water, air-conditioning and a view ofthe coffee plantations.There is also a spaciousdining and living areawhich is common. Thekitchen dishes out some

lovely Coorgi delights andalso home-cookedContinental and NorthIndian food. Guests canalso enjoy healthyvegetarian cuisine, which isprepared only on request.

The NagaraholeNational Park, Irupu Falls,the sacred Talacauvery(birthplace of the Cauveryriver) and Bylakuppe (aTibetan settlement) are alllocated within an hour’sdrive. Or do the ‘Bean toCup’ plantation tour thattakes you through thetranquil, green estate.You can also tee off atthe private nine-holegolf course.

NAVIGATORAddress Thaneerhulla Heritage

Bungalow, Thaneerhulla Division,Woshully Estate, Tata Coffee Ltd.,

Pollibetta—571 215.

By Air The nearest airport is atMangalore (181 km).

By Rail The nearest station is Mysore(102 km).

By Road There are several busesfrom Bengaluru and Mysore to

Pollibetta in Coorg.

Reservations 080 2356 0761; emailreach.plantationtrails@tatacoffee.com

AROMA OF COFFEE & HISTORY

FEBRUARY 2014 17

18 FEBRUARY 2014

If you are planning abeach holiday, youshould definitely

consider Puri in Odisha.The place has some ofthe most scenic beachesyou will find on theeastern coast, but it isthe prolific heritage thatmakes it rather unique.

And while you’re there,the best thing you can dois stay at a property thatallows you to be close toNature and to the city.The Mayfair Group’s latestproperty in Puri, MayfairWaves, lets you do justthat. This ocean-frontboutique resort is adjacentto the existing Mayfair

Heritage, and is ideal for afamily getaway.

The resort can also be amemorable destination forweddings, given that it hasall the scenic beauty youcan look for. Plus, MayfairWaves can also hostcorporate residentialevents, given its state-of-the-art conference andbanquet facilities.

The rooms are dividedinto the premium roomand premium suitecategories. The rooms arespacious and stylish, andsome offer privatebalconies or sit-out areasthat let you gaze atpicturesque sunsets in the

Bay of Bengal. The suitesare also well-furnished.The premium suites offerthe additional benefits of aseparate living and diningarea, two bathrooms and aprivate balcony.

Other facilities includea spa that offersrejuvenation and relaxationpackages, the multicuisi-ne restaurant Samudra, andThe Shacks, a beach-frontbar area. Of course, asbefits a premium property,a swimming pool, amultipurpose gym, a gameroom and a well-stockedboutique add to theexperience. It’s definitelyworth a visit.

BEACH-FRONT WONDERMayfair Waves, Puri, offers some magnificent ocean views.

NAVIGATORAddress Mayfair Waves, Chakratirtha

Road, Puri - 752 002

By Air The nearest airport is BijuPatnaik Airport, Bhubaneswar, a

one-hour drive to the hotel.

By Rail Puri is well-connected bydirect train services from major Indiancities. The station is a 10-minute drive

from the hotel.

By Road Puri is 540 km from Kolkataand 90 km from Cuttack.

Reservations 06752 660 101;email waves@mayfairhotels.com;

web mayfairhotels.com

GatewayCURRENT CONCIERGE

20 FEBRUARY 2014

When one talksabout getawaysfrom the City of

Joy, Kolkata, a lot ofoptions come to mind.Some of them are loadedwith natural beauty andone such place is the BestWestern Premier VedicVillage Spa Resort. It istucked away on theoutskirts of Rajarhat,some 20 minutes from theairport. Kolkata’s onlynature resort is lush andscenic, with variedbirdlife offering adelightful touch ofromance, tranquility andleisure to offset the hustleof metropolitan life.

The resort’s impressivedécor will charm evenvisitors who are not tunedin to design... and thisbegins at the entranceitself. As you move into theproperty, you willimmediately be taken in bythe rustic charm of thereception area with itsthatched roofing—built bylocal artisans—andterracotta murals. The cosytea lounge, with a sereneview of water cascadinginto a blue lotus pool, willimmediately relax you.

The accommodationoptions range fromstandard double rooms andsuites to compact studios.

There are also deluxe villasthat overlook the lake,independent Earth villas,the Zamindar Suite andFarm Bungalows with agarden or orchard view. Forthose looking for anexclusive experience, theAqua Homes—with aswimming pool and gardenon the rooftop—and SpaHomes, which come with awhirlpool bath, areexcellent options. Otherfacilities include theSanjeeva Medical Spa,famous for its treatments,and the V-den, anunderground leisure centre,and speciality restaurantsYagna, Agni and Bhoomi.

RELAXATION CENTRALThe Best Western Premier Vedic Village Spa Resort offers a fine, luxurious stay.

NAVIGATORAddress Shikharpur, P.O. Bagu,

Rajarhat, Kolkata—700135

Reservations 033 6622 9900;09830025900;

email sanjeeva@thevedicvillage.com;web thevedicvillage.com

Tariff Starts from `8,500 and goes upto ̀ 30,000 for both single and

double occupancies. Taxes are extra.

GatewayCURRENT CONCIERGE

22 FEBRUARY 2014

V-Day OnThe HeightsEveryone chooses differentways to spend the mostromantic day of the year withthose they love. How aboutspending V-Day surrounded bythe pine forests of Gulmarg andthe snow-capped Affarwatpeaks while staying at theKhyber Himalayan Resort andSpa? The hotel is offering a3N4D package which includesaccommodation for a couple,complimentary transfersbetween Srinagar and theresort, a non-alcoholic welcomedrink and chocolates on arrival,daily buffet breakfast and buffetdinner at Cloves restaurant, acake with a personalisedmessage on February 14 and a30-minute RelaxingAromachologie Massage for theback and shoulder or feet andshoulder for a couple at the spa.Valid from February 11 toFebruary 17. Price `44,999; For reservations, call 01954254 666; emailinfo@khyberhotels.com; webkhyberhotels.com

Romance &HeritageThe Imperial is offeringV-Day stay for a couplein a Heritage room,check-in at 10 am, latecheck-out on February15, buffet breakfaston February 15, awelcome bottle ofhouse wine and a fruitplatter, Valentine’s Daydinner and one ImperialRelease Massage for30 minutes at TheImperial Spa. Price`19,999, includingtaxes; For reservationscall 011 411 16303;emailreservation@theimperialindia.com; webtheimperialindia.com

GatewayINQUISITIVE TRAVELLER

MORE

The Royal WarmthOf Winter

Fairmont Jaipur’s WinterEscape package offers twonights’ stay, buffetbreakfast and dinner fortwo at Zoya, along withHappy Hours from 6 pm to8 pm, 25% discount on spaand laundry services, 15%on the mini-bar andcomplimentary usage of thepool, gym, steam, saunaand jacuzzi. Valid till March31; Price `18,000 onwards;For reservations, call 0142642 0000; emailjai.reservations@fairmont.com

The Chinese Way To Entwine Hearts

Good food is part and parcelof Valentine’s Day for everycouple. Lovers of Chinesecuisine can opt for RoyalChina’s special unlimiteddimsum lunch whichincludes unlimited softdrinks and house wine. Theyalso have a Valentine DinnerSpecial with sparkling wine,red and white house andsoft drinks with a five-course meal. Address RoyalChina, 16th Floor, ErosCorporate Tower, NehruPlace; For reservations, call011 4981 8000/008

FEBRUARY 2014 23

Celebrating The Day OfLove In Tranquility Make this Valentine's a memorable one atthe beautiful property of VasundharaSarovar Premiere, Vayalar, which is locatedon the tranquil backwaters of Kerala andensures a dreamy, languid holiday on whichyou can relax and rejuvenate. The propertyis offering a 2N3D package for a couplewhich includes accommodation, a non-alcoholic welcome drink, breakfast, fruitplatter, 15% discount on laundry servicesand first 30 minutes Wi-Fi complimentary,15% discount thereafter. Valid fromFebruary 14 to February 16. Price `18,999; For reservations, call 011 2638 3851; email reservations@sarovarhotels.com; web sarovarhotels.com

Love Among The Roses At R The Spa This Valentine’s Day, celebrate your love at R the Spa at Radisson Blu PlazaDelhi. It is offering a special couple package which includes a honey andchocolate scrub with olive oil added in the scrub. Besides this, there’s amassage with rose and geranium oil for a divine feeling. The relaxing ritualconcludes with a strawberry and rose facial in which the skin is hydrated withorange juice followed by exfoliation and massage with strawberry and freshcream and a final pack of crushed strawberry and fresh rose petals. Price `12,000; For reservations, call 011 2677 9191

24 FEBRUARY 2014

MountainHighsThe Himalaya alwaysrouses a unique feeling ofromance for a couple.Why not go to Naldehraduring this season of love?The Chalets Naldehra isoffering a special 2N3Dpackage which includes anon-alcoholic welcomedrink, a bottle of wine, aplum cake, a lunch onFebruary 14 for the coupleand a spa treatment forthe couple. Valid fromFebruary 13 to February15. Price `14,990onwards; Forreservations, call 01772747 715; emailcontact@chaletsnaldehra.com; webchaletsnaldehra.com

GatewayINQUISITIVE TRAVELLER

MORE

Sweeten Things Up

Surprise her with acandlelight dinner alongwith free desserts at MarketCafé, done up with heartsand balloons. Goodies onoffer include sparkling wine,winter mulled wine, sangria,and cocktails and mocktailsto accompany scrumptiousMediterranean and Mexicancuisine. Address M - 40,1st Floor, M Block Market,GK Part II, New Delhi. Price `1,500 plus taxes percouple approximately; For reservations, call011 4168 2937

A Reason To SmileIn Coimbatore

Choice Hotels India hasopened a property inCoimbatore under theirupscale brand, Clarion.Clarion Hotel Coimbatorehas 107 rooms and suites.Facilities include Orchid BaliSpa, space to groove to themusic at Zero Degree Barand an opportunity to enjoya sumptuous meal at the24x7 Bytes Restaurant. Forreservations, visitchoicehotelsindia.com

FEBRUARY 2014 25

Bringing Alive TheRajasthani TraditionsLiving the traditional Rajasthani way hasa new address in Jaipur as theWelcomHeritage group has recentlycome up with their latest property,WelcomHeritage Traditional Haveli, atBani Park, which is a central part of thePink City. It is in close proximity to therailway station. The 24-room hotel hasthree suites and all rooms are aremarkable mix of classical andcontemporary décor. The hotel has alarge banquet space, an Indian restaurantnamed Zaika, the Alfresco Bar, the Ospa and an outdoor swimming pool onthe roof. For reservations, call011 4603 5529; emailsunil@welcomheritagehotels.in

A Cup Of TeaWith CakeAmour—The PatioRestaurant, Cafe & Bar isgiving Delhiites anopportunity to enjoy tea withtheir Hi-Tea Platter thisseason. There’s acombination of sweet andsavoury bites to go alongwith your steaming cups oftea. Choose from a varietyof tea with pound cakes,chocolate cake, cookies,sandwiches and shrimp andchicken canapés. AddressAmour—The PatioRestaurant, Café & Bar, 4thFloor, 30, Hauz Khas Village,New Delhi. For reservations,call 09212126687

Island Of JoyThis is the season whentravelling around India ismost pleasant. If you visitthe Andaman and NicobarIslands, the best place tostay is the Sinclairs Port Blairfor it’s offering an attractivepackage. The 3N4D packageincludes a welcome drink onarrival, afternoon city tourcovering the Cellular Jail,Anthropological Museum,Cottage Industries Emporiumand Marine Museum and thelight and sound show in theCellular Jail on Day 1;breakfast and trip to Rossand North Bay islands on Day2; breakfast and full-day tripto Jolly Buoy/ Red SkinIsland on Day 3 and check-out on Day 4 after breakfast.It includes airport transfers,free accommodation for achild below six years, boattickets and entry tickets.Price `34,740 onwards,including tax; Forreservations, call 033 22801317/ 09674457869; emailsudhakaran@sinclairs-hotels.com

For any queries, write to: corporatesales@dainikbhaskargroup.com

The group now covers 14 states with 67 Editions.

THE LAND KNOWN FOR REVOLUTION AND KNOWLEDGE SEES A NEW SUN RISE

Dainik Bhaskar launchesin Bihar with Patna editionDainik Bhaskar launchesin Bihar with Patna edition

Patna

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The Most Picturesque Forts In India | Unseen Jharkhand |Chhattisgarh Unlimited | The Tranquil Lake | History Comes Alive

G R E A T I D E A S F O R T H E T R A V E L L E R

PHOT

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28 FEBRUARY 2014

AnchorVINEYARD GETAWAY

Akluj, a small town near Pune,offers soothing natural environs, a modern entertainment zone,hilltop temples, a fort, and a peek at village life.Words & Photography BINDU GOPAL RAO

Sugarland Gem

ocated about 170 km from Pune, thistown is a little gem—thanks to its salu-brious climate, local attractions and thefact that it makes you reconnect withnature. Once you visit Akluj, you comeback with fond memories that lingerlong after you are back home. The high-way that leads to Akluj is well-main-tained and the pleasant environs makethe four-hour journey seem shorter. I would recommend you stop at one ofthe eateries on the highway and samplea simple yet traditional Maharashtrianthali with Bhakri roti, eggplant curry andspicy groundnut chutney powder. Theyeven serve you hot jalebis sprinkled withdried rose petals!

Heading into Akluj, on this rathersweet note, the first thing I noticed was

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FEBRUARY 2014 29

30 FEBRUARY 2014

the abundance of grapes on either sideof the road—especially since it was theharvest season. The vegetation lendsan air of calm and Akluj provides aperfect getaway for a couple seeking tospend quality time together or even afamily that wants to bond by simplychilling. There are several small butneat hotels in the town which offersimple accommodation and great food.

Located in Solapur district, thistown is not just culturally rich but alsooffers much for the religiouslyinclined. Apart from sugarcane, cotton,wheat, groundnut and jaggery are themost popular produce and a weeklycattle market is held every Mondayand is a local attraction. This sleepytown owes the origin of its name toGoddess Aklai. There is a temple inthe town dedicated to the goddess andlocal legend has it that the idol of thedeity was discovered by shepherds inthe waters of the Nira river. Naturally,this is an important tourist stop here.

What sets this destination apart isthe fact that there is really nothingmuch to do. Therein lies its charm.This is exactly what a holiday should

be—a time to recharge one’s batteriesand reconnect with loved ones. Thevast expanse of nature here is perfectfor long pleasant walks in an unpollut-ed environment—something that allcitydwellers nowadays yearn for.

I must specifically mention that thesunrise is spectacular. The lovelinessof the changing hues of the sky ismatched only by the chirping andtweeting of a variety of birds. And ifyou are taking a walk amidst vineyardsin the right season, you will be amazedto see the quantity of grapes that cangrow in a field! And, yes, they certain-ly taste as juicy as they look.

Unlike the seasonal grapes, how-ever, there is one thing that you willalways see, irrespective of when youare here. And that is an endless trailof lorries, bullock carts, tractor-trailersand even bicycles laden with sugar-cane stems—all headed to theSahakar Maharishi Shankarao Mohite-Patil Sahakari Sakhar Karkhana, theco-operative sugar factory. My hosts,Arjunsinh Mohite-Patil and his wife, tell me that these are local farm-ers transporting their produce to the

factory for crushing and conversion to sugar granules.

Set up in 1960, the factory employsmore than 1,000 people and is on themust-see list of many visitors. When Iwent into the factory, I felt a rush ofsweetness in my throat thanks to thetonnes of sugar that were beingprocessed and packed. It was also myfirst time in a sugar factory and theprocess of converting sugarcane tosugar turned out to be fascinating.Incidentally, the Mohite-Patils are pio-neers in the co-operative movement inthe region and set up Maharashtra’sfirst sugar factory. With a crushingcapacity of 6,000 tonnes per day, thefactory is certainly the pride of Aklujand is driving economic growth in theregion. It is quite a sight to see vastnumbers of 50-kg bags of sugarstacked in rows to be transported tothe rest of the state and country.

And that’s not all. If you are lookingfor fun, games and amusement, headto the Sayajiraje Park, a recent localattraction modelled on the lines of anentertainment zone that has somethingfor the entire family. With a water

FEBRUARY 2014 31

park, an amusement park, a children’spark, boating and a safari park, there isno dearth of options here. A must-seehere is the Mamacha Wada (meaningmaternal uncle’s house), a display of atraditional Maharashtrian house. Theentire model village recreates life inrural Maharashtra and is ideal for bothchildren and adults to experience villagelife first-hand.

Subject to weather conditions, youcan even take an ATV ride on the trackaround the park for a bit of speed,excitement and adventure. Kids willalso enjoy the remote-controlled speed-boat here. The water rides, completewith a slide, a wave pool and even a raindance, ensure that you have a whale of atime, literally. A large lake in whichboats of different capacities are availablefor boating is a popular option with fam-ilies. A dense forest surrounds the lakeand is home to seasonal birds, while thewaterfall adjacent to the lake makes foran enchanting sight.

If you are looking to take an amazingsouvenir back home, check out theSayajiraje Shoppe that offers a range ofgifts like handicraft articles, home décor

(From far left) The beautyof the vineyard at Akluj iscomparable with vineyardsanywhere in the world;visitors can see emus here.This one peers curiously at the camera.

(Left & right) At the Akluj Fort, you can see

its historical importance;panels highlightingimportant events in

Shivaji's life throughrelief murals

items, leather bags and purses, per-fumes and quality chocolates, apart froman interesting collection of toys.

The town also has a host of templeslocated in picturesque locations thatafford a sense of serenity like nowhereelse. The Parvati Mandir welcomes youwith a grand entrance gate, an imposingstatue of Shivaji Maharaj and a beauti-fully landscaped garden featuring aJapanese pagoda. The blissful surround-ings give you a bird’s-eye view of Aklujand the inner sanctum of the temple,which houses marble idols of LordShiva and Goddess Uma.

However, two other prominent tem-ple complexes, devoted to Ganesha andShiva, erected on the top of a hill, aremy personal top picks. Set amidst asprawling mango farm, the Ganeshatemple also has a small emu enclosureattached to it. I was told that at onetime there were over 50 emus housedhere but most have been released andonly a few are left now.

The adjoining Shiva temple also hasan interesting story. While constructionwas going on, the masons found a stone

32 FEBRUARY 2014

resembling a shivling and this prompt-ed the building of a temple here. Infact, the original shivling is in the base-ment of the Shiva temple which alsohas a library devoted to religious texts.My host told me that the entire prop-erty belongs to his family and theyacquired it at a very low price. Hismother had said that something mustbe done to benefit the people, as away of thanking God. Her remarkresulted in the building of the twotemple complexes.

When in Maharashtra, it is hard toescape Shivaji and Shivshrushti is agreat place to learn about the life andtimes of the Maratha leader. Lasershows are held every day in the morn-ing and night at this venue. Built byYadav king Raja Singhan in the 13thcentury, the Akluj Fort, Shivshrusthi,has been restored through a uniqueproject initiated by the MaharashtraTourism Development Corporation(MTDC). The project has beendeveloped over a restored fort of sixacres and houses a collection of 172sculptures of prominent personalities

of the era of Shivaji. It also has a col-lection of 21 replica panels, explainingimportant events in Shivaji’s lifethrough sculptures. The replica panelshave been made of fibreglass, andeach and every sculpture and scenedepicted in the project has been madeunder the guidance of renowned his-torian Babasaheb Purandare. A touraround this fort is unique simplybecause the life-size sculptures arevery real.

Given nature’s bounty here, makesure you explore every aspect. I waslucky to have lunch at the Syrah hill-top amidst the picturesque settings ofthe Garwad vineyards. This 15-minutedrive uphill on a bumpy road that onlyan SUV can manage was memorablenot just for the food but also for theviews of the valley below. The LavaniMahotsav, held once a year inDecember or January to promote theculture of Maharashtra, is quite differ-ent, compared to festivals in otherparts of the state, and is a must-visit.Akluj is your perfect rustic holiday thatwill leave you asking for more.

Reach AklujBy Air Solapur airport (120 km) is the nearest. Puneis a more convenient airport,175 km away.By Rail Kurduvadi Junction,50 km away, is the nearestrailway station.By Road Mumbai is 261 kmaway and Pune is 169 kmaway. Akluj is easilyaccessible by road from boththese cities in all possibleways. The place is also well-connected to all towns andcities of the state throughgovernment-run and privatebuses along with cabsavailable for hire.

NAVIGATOR

FEBRUARY 2014 33

AnchorLIVING HISTORY

POEMS INSTONE

DISCOVER INDIATRAVELS TO

THE TOP

There’s more to India’s citadelmasterpieces than their history. They

evoke a multitude of emotions thatsurface each time you visit them... again.

Words DIVYA DUGAR

T

34 FEBRUARY 2014

The Red Fort in the nationalcapital is one of the most

well preserved forts in thecountry. Tourists from all

over the world visit the forttime and again for its

breathtaking architecture

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36 FEBRUARY 2014

1. AGRA FORT (Uttar Pradesh)This red sandstone fort began construction in 1565 underEmperor Akbar. Shah Jahan added many structures withinand was later imprisoned there until death by his son. Thefort holds fine architectural sights, such as the Diwan-i-Am,Nagina Masjid, Diwan-i-Khas and Jehangir Palace and theview of the Taj Mahal from it is not to be missed. Watch thevarious moods of the Taj Mahal from the Oberoi Amarvilas,one of the best places to stay in Agra.Navigator The best option is to fly to Delhi. Take the NewDelhi-Bhopal Shatabdi Express (12002), departing NewDelhi at 6 am and arriving in Agra at 8.06 am. Delhi to Agra(220 km) takes three hours.

2. AMBER FORT (Rajasthan)No fortress compares with the 16th-century Amber Fort

built by Raja Man Singh I. Overlooking the beautiful float-ing garden in the Maota Lake, it has a four-level layoutpunctuated by a series of gates. Its most spectacular part isthe Sheesh Mahal or Mirror Palace. Don’t miss the Diwan-i-Am or Public Audience Hall with its symmetry of columns.You can view Jaigarh fort—situated right above Amber Fort.Walk around the back lanes of Amber Fort, with step wells,temples and the Anokhi museum of hand printing. Eat at abeautiful restaurant, 1135 AD, which has canopies, chande-liers and mirrored walls.Navigator There are flights from most cities to Jaipur. Takethe New Delhi-Ajmer Shatabdi Express (12015), departingNew Delhi at 6.05 am and arriving in Jaipur at 10.35 am.New Delhi to Jaipur (280 km) takes about five hours by road.

3. BHANGARH FORT (Rajasthan) On the edge of the Sariska National Park stand the histori-cal ruins of Bhangarh, built by King Madho Singh in the17th century. Extremely well preserved, the premises of thefort are dotted with temples, markets, water tanks andhavelis. According to legend, the entire city was destroyedovernight by the curse of a tantric who was rejected by RaniRoopmati. Navigator Fly to Jaipur or to New Delhi. Take the NewDelhi-Ajmer Shatabdi Express (12015), departing NewDelhi at 6.05 am and arriving in Alwar at 8.00 am. Alwar toBhangarh is 80 km by road; Jaipur to Bhangarh is 78 km;and from New Delhi it is 240 km.

4. BUNDI FORT (Rajasthan)The origins of Bundi can be traced to the 12th century. Asteep climb brings one to the entrance of Bundi Palace witha carved door; inside are galleries, courtyards and paintedrooms. It requires several hours if not a full day to grasp themagnitude of the art. It is best to stay at Haveli BrajBhushanjee, a heritage property. Navigator Jaipur airport is the nearest. Take the GoaSampark Kranti Express (12450), departing New Delhi at7.25 am and arriving in Kota at 1.10 pm. Delhi to Bundi(475 km) takes eight to nine hours by road. Bundi to Jaipur(210 km) takes four hours.

orts are among India’s most valuable architectural and cul-tural heritage. They stand today as they have for centuries,offering an opportunity to re-live history by taking a walkback in time. Replete with ramparts, gates, moats, tunnels,stables and watch towers in differing stages of preservation,they remain landmarks in the history of our country, with theair of bygone eras still clinging to them. India’s various fortsbear testimony to the glory of different dynasties, and ofwars fought over territory, while some are majestic architec-tural marvels. We take you to 26 of the most significant fortsacross the country.

(Above & below) The temple of Lord Shiva inside the AhilyaFort in Maheshwar has its unique beauty which is hard to

miss; the Diwan-i-Khas with its garden inside Agra Fort

FEBRUARY 2014 39

5. CHAPORA FORT (Goa)Made famous by Bollywood movie Dil Chahta Hai, ChaporaFort was built in 1717 by Goa’s viceroy to protect Bardezfrom the Marathas. At the northern tip of Vagator, the ruinsof the fort tower over Chapora river and the beach.Afterwards, kayak the Chapora or go on a cruise.Navigator All major cities have direct flights to Goa. Takethe Dadar-Madgaon Jan Shatabdi Express (12051), departingMumbai at 5.25 am and arriving in Madgaon at 2.10 pm.Mumbai to Goa (600 km) takes nine to 10 hours by road.

6. CHITTORGARH FORT (Rajasthan)Chittorgarh Fort is one of Rajasthan’s oldest forts, strewn withinnumerable architectural sights—Rana Kumbha andPadmini’s palace, Surajpol, the victory tower and the

Neelkanth Mahadev Jain temple. It makes for a great day tripfrom Udaipur. Navigator Take a direct flight from New Delhi or Mumbai toUdaipur. Take the Mewar Express (12963), departing Delhi at7 pm and arriving in Udaipur at 7 am. It is 115 km fromUdaipur and takes about two hours by road.

7. DANSBORG FORT (Tamil Nadu)Constructed in 1620, it is one of the biggest forts built by theDanes, after Kronborg, complete with private quarters, ware-house and cannons. The Nayaks of Thanjavur ruledTranquebar and a deal was struck between the king, VijayaRaghunatha, and the Danish Admiral, Ove Gjedde. TheDanes used the port for trading until the early 17th century. Stay at the sea-facing The Bungalow hotel. Walk around thevillage and visit the New Jerusalem church, built in 1718. Navigator Chennai is the closest airport to Tranquebar.Tranquebar town is 280 km from Chennai and 120 km fromPuducherry by road.

(Clockwise from bottom left) The grandness of Bundi Palace is a treat for any heritage-lover’s eyes; Amber Fort in Jaipur is nevermissed out by a tourist visiting the city; the view of the Vagatorbeach and the sea from the ruins of Chapora Fort in Goa is amazing

So far as I am able to judge, nothing has been left undone, either by man or nature, tomake India the most extraordinary country that the sun visits on his rounds. Nothingseems to have been forgotten, nothing overlooked.

— M A R K T W A I N , A U T H O R

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40 FEBRUARY 2014

The Chittorgarh Fort is thelargest in India. It was ruled

by the Guhilots, Sisodias,and Suryavanshis, until it

was seized by EmperorAkbar in 1567, but it was

abandoned a year later

42 FEBRUARY 2014

8. DAULATABAD FORT (Maharashtra)Daulatabad’s spectacular 12th-century fort sits atop a 650-fthill and was once the capital of the Tughlaq dynasty, underMuhammad bin Tughlaq. Inside the fort are the ChandMinar, the second tallest tower in India after Delhi’s QutubMinar, and the Chini Mahal. It takes close to 600 steps toreach the top, but the view of the Deccan plateau is worth it.Navigator There are flights to Aurangabad from Mumbai andDelhi. Take the Tapovan Express (17617), departing Mumbaiat 6.10 am and arriving in Aurangabad at 1.15 pm. From Puneit is 235 km and from Mumbai it is 365 km by road.

9. DINDIGUAL FORT (Tamil Nadu)Dindigual is famous for its hill fort, Dindigul Malai Kottai.Built in 1605 by the Madurai Nayaks, it was later under

Tipu Sultan and held strategic importance during theCarnatic Wars. Also visit the Tadikombu temple, just eightkilometres from Dindigual town, which has exquisitelycarved sculptures. Navigator The nearest airport is Madurai from whereDindigual is 60 km. Take the Chennai Central-PalaniExpress (16001), departing Chennai at 9 pm and arriving inDindigual at 5.50 am. Chennai to Dindigual (430 km) takesabout six hours by road.

10. GINGEE FORT (Tamil Nadu)Perched atop three hills, Rajgiri, Krishnagiri and ChandrayanDurg in Villupuram district, Gingee is one of the most impor-tant forts in Tamil Nadu. Visit in the early morning before itgets hot and see its halls, tanks and temples.

If there is one place on the face of earth where all the dreams of living men have found a home from the very earliest days when man began the dream of existence, it is India!

FEBRUARY 2014 43

Navigator The nearest airport is Chennai. Take the ChennaiEgmore-Guruvayur Express (16127) to Tindivanam (aboutan hour-and-a-half) and then go to Gingee Fort (28 km).Gingee is 160 km from Chennai and 250 km from Bengaluruby road.

11. GOLCONDA FORT (Andhra Pradesh)Golconda was initially a mud fortress built by the Kakatiyas(1150-1323). It gained power in the 16th century under the

Qutub Shahis. After many unsuccessful attempts, Aurangzebcaptured it in 1687; its ruins are testimony to the plunderthat followed. To enjoy the fort, use imagination and a guide. It is easy to get lost in this 11-km complex. Don’tmiss the beautifully carved tombs of the Qutub Shahis, notfar from the fort.Navigator There are direct flights to Hyderabad from all themetros. Take the Hussain Sagar SF Express (12701), depart-ing Mumbai at 9.50 pm and arriving in Hyderabad at 12.10pm. Golconda Fort is 12 km from Hyderabad and it takeshalf an hour.

12. GWALIOR FORT (Madhya Pradesh) Construction of Gwalior Fort began around AD 525 but itrose to prominence and power with the Rajput Tomar

8 (Clockwise from top left) Gingee Fort is so well-fortified that it was called the “Troy of the East” by the British; the Golconda Fort was known for its storage of diamonds; Gwalior Fort built by Raja Man Singh Tomar encloses three temples and six palaces

from the very earliest days when man began the dream of existence, it is India!— R O M A I N R O L L A N D , F R E N C H S C H O L A R

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44 FEBRUARY 2014

dynasty. It is one of India’s finest forts with intricate crafts-manship. It includes two temples, the Saas-Bahu complexand the Teli ka Mandir. It is worth walking down from thefort complex from the Urwahi gate, which is home to 22 Jainrock sculptures from the 15th century.Navigator Take the New Delhi-Bhopal Shatabdi Express(12002), departing New Delhi at 6 am and arriving inGwalior at 9.25 am. Delhi to Gwalior (350 km) takes five tosix hours by road.

13. JAISALMER FORT (Rajasthan)Dating to the 12th century, Jaisalmer Fort rises out of theThar desert framed by turrets and towers. It is a labyrinth oflanes, courtyards, temples and palaces. Start walking fromDashera chowk, flanked by Raj Palace, and then movearound the citadel, inhabited by about 3,000 people. Thefort is dotted with eateries and guesthouses, but to experi-ence life within the fort stay at Garh Jaisal Haveli Hotel.Navigator There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbaito Jodhpur. Take the Jaisalmer Express (14659), departingDelhi at 5 pm and arriving in Jaisalmer at 11.15 am. Jodhpurto Jaisalmer (285 km) takes about five hours by road.

14. JANJIRA FORT (Maharashtra)The unconquerable 350-year-old Janjira Fort was occupiedby the Siddis, originally from Habeesh (Abyssinia), in Africa.One of our best marine forts, it towers 90 feet above the sea.It took 22 years to build and was occupied until 1972. Itsthree massive cannons, Kala Bangdi, Chavri and LandaKasam, can still be seen. Also visit Padmadurg Fort, built byShivaji’s son, Sambaji, in the 17th century.Navigator The best option is to fly to Mumbai or Pune.Take the August Kranti Rajdhani Express (12954), departingNew Delhi at 4.55 pm and arriving in Mumbai at 10 am.Mumbai to Murud Janjira is 150 km by road and from Pune it is 190 km.

15. JUNAGARH FORT (Rajasthan)A visually stunning fort, Junagarh was built between 1589and 1593 by Raja Rai Singh. It is a collection of palaces, thebest of which are Anup Mahal, Karan Mahal and Phool

(Left & right) The Jaisalmer Fort, made of yellowsandstone, is also known as the “Golden Fort”; tourists

love visiting the Kangra Fort because of the breathtakingviews of the valley it offers

In the great books of India, an empire spoke to us, nothing small or unworthy, but large,serene, consistent, the voice of an old intelligence, which in another age and climate hadpondered and thus disposed of the questions that exercise us.

— R A L P H W A L D O E M E R S O N , P O E T

The Vindhya Ranges providedenough natural protection toMandu Fort, the reason it wasthe fort capital of the Parmarrulers of Malwa

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48 FEBRUARY 2014

Mahal, which are architectural gems. It also houses a muse-um of World War I aircraft and weaponry.Navigator The nearest airport is at Jodhpur, which hasdirect flights from New Delhi and Mumbai. Take the DelhiSarai Rohilla-Bikaner Intercity Express (22472), departingDelhi’s Sarai Rohilla at 8.40 am and arriving in Bikaner at4.40 pm. Bikaner is 316 km from Jaipur, 240 km fromJodhpur and 330 km from Jaisalmer by road.

16. KANGRA FORT (Himachal Pradesh)Located 20 km from Dharamsala is Kangra Fort, oncebelonging to the Katoch kings of Kangra. It has had a violenthistory—Ghazni, the Tughlaks and the Mughals attacked it.Though it’s in a state of ruin due to the 1905 earthquake, theviews are spectacular. You can see the Banganga-Manjhi con-fluence. Also visit the museum housing miniature paintingsfrom the Kangra School and ancient rock statues.Navigator Fly to Dharamsala from Delhi. Take theDauladhar Express (14035), departing Delhi at 10.45 pm andarriving in Pathankot at 8.20 am. Pathankot to Kangra is 100km, and from New Delhi it is about 460 km by road.

17. KISHANGARH FORT (Rajasthan) Maharaja Roop Singh constructed Kishangarh Fort in the1650s—a cupola-clad structure dotted with courtyards and alatticed palace complex. Don’t miss the murals, includingthe paintings of Bani Thani, the royal mistress, who is theicon of the Kishangarh School of painting. Stay in the beauti-ful Phool Mahal hotel, framed by the Gundalao Lake.Navigator Most cities have direct flights to Jaipur. Take theNew Delhi-Ajmer Shatabdi Express (12015), departing NewDelhi at 6.05 am and arriving in Jaipur at 10.35 am. Jaipur toKishangarh (100 km) takes a little over an hour by road.

18. KUMBALGARH FORT (Rajasthan)Kumbalgarh Fort is surrounded by forests and the Aravallihills. It was built around 1443 by the great warrior ruler, RanaKumbha. Its highlight is the 36-km wall, akin to the GreatWall of China. A steep climb to the top of the fort brings oneto Badal Mahal, which offers views of the great wall, wideenough for eight horsemen to ride abreast. The best place tostay is The Aodhi hotel, boasting a vantage view of the fort.Visit the surrounding Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary.

The Sanskrit language, whatever be its antiquity, is of wonderful structure, more perfect than the Greek, more copious than the Latin and more exquisitely refined than either.

Navigator There are direct flights from New Delhiand Mumbai to Udaipur. Take the Mewar Express (12963), departing Delhi at 7 pm and arriving in Udaipurat 7 am. Udaipur to Kumbalgarh (110 km) takes abouttwo hours by road.

19. MANDU FORT (Madhya Pradesh)The hilltop fort of Mandu dates to the 10th century. Manduwas originally called Mandapa Durg or ‘fort with pillaredhalls.’ The most famous buildings are the Jahaz Mahal(home to Ghiyasuddin’s 15,000-strong harem), HindolaMahal, Rupamati’s Pavilion and the Jama Masjid, which wereerected between 1401 and 1529. The city of Mandu springsto life during the monsoon.Navigator There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbaito Indore. Take the Pune-Indore Express (19311), departingMumbai at 8.05 pm and arriving in Indore at 9.50 am. Indoreto Mandu (98 km) takes over two hours.

20. MEHRANGARH FORT (Rajasthan) Atop a cliff, Mehrangarh Fort has a vantage view of Jodhpurcity. Called “the work of angels, fairies and giants” byRudyard Kipling, it is a maze of courtyards and various sec-tions, added by 17 generations since 1459. The RajasthanInternational Folk Festival is held every October here. Navigator There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbaito Jodhpur. Take the Mandore Express (12461), departingNew Delhi at 9.15 pm and arriving Jodhpur at 7.15 am.

21. PALAKKAD FORT (Kerala)Palakkad Fort, also known as Tipu's Fort, was built in 1766by Haider Ali to improve relations between Palakkad andCoimbatore. It is well preserved and has a children’s parkand a small museum. One can also visit the 500-year-old Jaintemple on the bank of the Kalpathy. Navigator The nearest airport is Coimbatore (60 km). Takethe Chennai Alappuzha (Alleppey) Express (16041), depart-ing Chennai at 8.45 pm and arriving in Palakkad at 5.20 am.Chennai to Palakkad (550 km) takes about nine hours byroad. Kochi to Palakkad is 138 km.

FEBRUARY 2014 49

Greek, more copious than the Latin and more exquisitely refined than either. — S I R W I L L I A M J O N E S , E N G L I S H S C H O L A R

(Both pictures above) The Mehrangarh Fortcombines the brute power of stone with thefinesse of intricate craftmanship

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22. QUILA MUBARAK (Punjab)Initially a mud fortress built by Baba Ala Singh, founder ofthe Patiala dynasty in 1763, the Quila Mubarak was recon-structed in brick. The Darbar hall houses cannons, swords,shields, and daggers of Guru Gobind Singh. Stay in thecolonnaded Baradari Palace, built around 1876, and now aheritage hotel. Visit Adalat Bazaar which sells parandhi forthe hair and Punjabi juttis. Navigator Fly to Chandigarh, from where Patiala is anhour’s drive.Take the Amritsar Express (11057), departingNew Delhi at 4.30 am and arriving in Patiala at 10.30 am.Delhi to Patiala (250 km) takes four to five hours by road.

23. RANTHAMBORE FORT (Madhya Pradesh)The Ranthambore National Park has one of India’s mostmajestic hill forts, built in AD 944. Emperor Akbar stayedhere around 1558 and later gifted it to the royal family ofJaipur. It is better not to dawdle after sunset, as leopards

stroll around the periphery. On festival days, pilgrims throngthe Ganesha temple. Navigator Most cities have a direct flight to Jaipur. Thenearest station is Sawai Madhopur. Take the GoldenTemple Mail (12904), departing Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddinat 7.40 am and arriving in Sawai Madhopur at 12.55 pm.Jaipur to Ranthambore (180 km) takes about three hours byroad; Delhi-Ranthambore (365 km) takes about six hours.

24. RED FORT (Delhi)Built by Emperor Shah Jahan, the Red Fort was home tothe Mughals for over 200 years. A red sandstone and marblecomplex, it houses some of the finest architectural splen-dour we have. Start from Lahori Gate, moving towards theDiwan-i-Am, and then the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of PrivateAudience), which is inscribed with a famous couplet byPersian poet Amir Khusro: ‘If there is a paradise on earth, Itis this, it is this, it is this.' Afterwards, walk around the

India was the mother of our race and Sanskrit the mother of Europe’s languages, Mother India is in many ways the mother of us all.

FEBRUARY 2014 51

walled city of Shahjahanabad, with mosques and havelis.Navigator There are direct flights from almost all major air-ports and a central railway line.

25. VELLORE FORT (Tamil Nadu)Once the headquarters of the mighty Vijayanagara empire, this 16th-century fort in Vellore city was also the site of a rebellion against the British in 1806.Considered one of the finest military forts in South India, it is made with heavy granite stone. Its moat had 10,000 crocodiles. The fort premises house a temple, mosque and church.Navigator The best option is to fly to Chennai. Take the

Chennai-Bangalore AC Double Decker Express (22625),departing Chennai at 7.25 am and arriving at KatpadiJunction at 9.20 am. Bengaluru to Vellore is 215 km by road,while Chennai-Vellore is 140 km.

26. ZORAWAR FORT (Jammu & Kashmir) Zorawar Fort, constructed in 1836 by Thanedar Magna onthe orders of Wazir Zorawar Singh, is now under the Indianarmy. But tourists can visit the fort and museum dedicatedto the Dogra warrior. To avoid crowds, visit Leh in winter.You will also see the best monastery festivals such asDosmoche in February. Navigator Fly to Leh from New Delhi. Manali to Leh (470km) takes about 14-15 hours by a long journey on road. Theroute is open from June to September. Srinagar to Leh is415 km and takes about 10 hours. The road is open fromJune to November.

is in many ways the mother of us all. — W I L L I A M D U R A N T , W R I T E R , H I S T O R I A N & P H I L O S O P H E R

(Clockwise from top left) Vellore Fort was once guarded by 10,000 crocodiles in its deepmoat, waiting to grab any intruder; the exteriorview of the Red Fort; the Quila Mubarak boastsof some fine Sikh architecture

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THE GOOD EARTHJJhhaarrkkhhaanndd ooffffeerrss ccaannooppiieedd ffoorreesstt ttrraaiillss,, cclleeaarr rriivveerrss aanndd ggrreeeennppaassttuurreess ttoo ssooootthhee uurrbbaann ttrraavveelllleerrss..Words & Photography ABHISHEK GUPTA

AnchorPRISTINE PARADISE

FEBRUARY 2014 53

THE SALT OFTHE EARTHThe robust faces of the Adivasis,who still live in primordial stylealongside the Damodar river,truly belong to the land. Theirhomes are swept with a blend ofcow dung, mud and paddy husk,which provides a play of light in awonderful Chiaroscuro when thesunlight strikes it. Their rusticlifestyle moulds their stronglimbs and torsos and men,women and children all seemnaturally limber. Unaware of theoutside world, they live inharmony with nature and itsdiurnal rhythms, bereft ofmodern amenities.

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56 FEBRUARY 2014

BOUNDLESSELEMENTS A 40-km drive from Dhanbadtakes us onto the Delhi–Kolkata highway, with lushgreen on both sides. We beginto feel the rejuvenatingfreshness that Jharkhand offers.Topchanchi is a populardestination for locals for itsBritish-built reservoir and asmall wildlife sanctuary. But,beyond it, the dense forestswitness a mega migration byelephants each year.

Following spread Dassam means10 and this is how DassamFalls get their name—from the10 streams of water plungingtogether in a milky cascade.Named by the local Mundarisof Taimara village, the Fallsoccur on the Kanchi, a tributaryof the Subarnarekha, and fallfrom 144 feet. They are a40-km drive on the Jamshedpurhighway (NH33).

Reach River BarakarThe river is 30 km from

Dhanbad on NH32 towardsGiridih. NH32 connects

with NH2 (Kolkata–Delhihighway). One can stop

at Ludhuria for tea.From Ludhuria, take the

road towards theKaramdaha–Barakar bridge.

StayThe nearest place to stay isin Dhanbad (Hotel Sushant

International, Skylark). Ifyou want to stay near the

river, make sure you carry atent or you can also

request locals foraccommodation.

Reach DhanbadFor going to all these

places, it is best to reachDhanbad by rail or air and

then do the rest of thejourney by road.

By Air Ranchi (171 km) isthe nearest airport and has

flights from all over India.By Rail Dhanbad’s station

is well-connected to allmajor places in the country.

NAVIGATOR

SERENE VISTASThe Karamdaha is a new bridge overthe Damodar, and its surroundingsare still undiscovered by even intrepidtravellers. Jharkhand’s mineralscolours its soil, while the villages arestill spared of plastic waste. Theriver water is so clean that the riverbedis visible during summer and winter.

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AnchorTRANQUILITY LAKE

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It was cold and windy, the fire took two hours to get going,the melted snow made the trail dangerously slippery…

but Prashar Lake’s beauty and serenity were ample rewards.Words & Photography SAMONWAY DUTTAGUPTA

SACRED DEPTHS

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t was in the wee hours that I woke up with a start as my head hit theglass window of the Manali-bound Volvo. We were an hour away fromMandi, but the winding roads of the hills had started to make theirpresence felt. I wiped the cold, watery moisture from the window for aview which any nature-lover would love to wake up to every morning.While thick fog had settled on the river flowing past, the first light ofthe sun illumined a golden mountain peak.

After two years of planning, I was finally en route to Prashar Lakewith my friend, Saptarshi. As the bus dropped us at the Mandi ISBTaround 6.30 am, we were greeted by a sharp fall in temperature andteeth-chattering wind. My woollens were out of my backpack in notime. We spent an hour at the bus depot, buying supplies and figuringout how to complete the rest of the journey.

P

The first sight of freshsnow with the finaldestination hidden rightbehind the curve made thelast bit of the journey to thelake even more exciting

FEBRUARY 2014 65

Prashar Lake is 50 km from Mandi. We had a choice ofwaiting a while and taking a local bus which would drop usat Baggi, 20 km from Prashar Lake by road and eight kilo-metres if one treks through the wilds. We had decided totake the trail on the way back. So we hired a cab from thebus terminus and started our journey.

Five kilometres away from our destination, we got ourfirst sight of snow. Fresh snow! We were lucky to reach on aday when the place received the season’s first snowfall. But,as they say, for all good things, one has to pay a price. Thecar could not make it for more than two kilometres, thanksto the slippery road. The trek was arduous. A 12-kg back-pack, a three-kg camera around my neck, a bag of five one-

litre water bottles in one hand and a charcoal stove in theother. Saptarshi was carrying a similar load. We were plan-ning to spend two nights at nature’s mercy, after all.

So our first glimpse of Prashar Lake was truly hard-earned. The lake, which is known for its ‘mystery island’ inthe middle which changes its position from time to time,shone before us. The snowfall had daubed it with white andgreenish yellow as spells of dry grass and wet marshlandstreaked the landscape. The lake lies diagonally right of thesmall gateway leading into the area. Look to the left and youhave two ranges one after the other—the Pir Panjal Rangeon the extreme left and the Dhauladhar Range on the right.But soon pangs of hunger and a parched throat made me

T

turn my gaze to the dhaba near the entrance. A spell ofstrong sunshine and the bone-piercing wind chill remindedme of the rough outdoors awaiting me as I moved on fromthe wet grass to the dry rocks laid out near the dhaba. Wegot a warm welcome from the shopowner as we steppedinside the stone and wood hut. The outdoor seating arrange-ment had wooden tables and benches. The shelter overheadwas cosy, but the sun outside provided much-needed com-fort. A hot cup of adrak-waali chai and a grand view of thelake made me feel I was sitting in a writer’s haven. Aftertea, it was time for a hot bowl oflip-smacking noodles. That’ssomething that’s comforting notonly when you are starving butalso when it’s cold!

Time seemed to have slowed.No deadlines, no phone calls, nohigh-end gadgets with theirweak battery lives to worryabout. It was just two friendswith raw nature for company. Wetook a stroll around the lake.The water looks green from adistance during this time of theyear but, as we went closer, thetrue colours became visible.Even though it has shades ofgreen due to the presence ofvegetation, the water also has alot of mud in it which makes most of it brown. And therewas a heavy population of fish.

Steps led us to the Prashar Rishi temple adjacent to thelake. The lake is, after all, a sacred one and has a long histo-ry of faith attached to it. I was keen to learn the story butwe had two days in hand. We paid homage to the idol ofSage Prashar after whom the lake is named. It was a chal-lenge to take off our shoes and walk barefoot on the freshsnow on the way to the inner core of the temple.

I had a pleasant interaction with Jeevan, the young priestof the temple, from whom I sought formal permission tocamp at the lake premises. The priest, along with his

extended family, is part of the temple trust. They live in acluster of three or four buildings adjoining the main temple.

Charmed and distracted by all this, we had forgottenhow unpredictable the weather can be in the mountains. Atover 9,000 ft, as happens, the clear blue sky darkened withclouds and strong winds within minutes. We knew we hadto pitch our tent as soon as possible. Thankfully, we didn’ttake much time to decide the right spot as we had alreadydone a quick survey and singled out a couple of options.

The outdoors started challenging us the moment westarted pitching the tent. Thestrong winds made it extremelydifficult. It took a bit longer thanusual. And the funny part is thatthe weather settled just as it wasdone. It was already late after-noon and by the time we had setup the camp area, it was dark.

Now it was time for the realhard work. It took two hours justto get the fire going to cook. Wewere carrying a charcoal stove andconsidering it was windy and thetemperature sub-zero, it was aherculean task to get all the char-coal to start burning properly. Wehad covered the top of the burnerand were blowing in through themakeshift funnel that we made

out of a roll of foil paper. We were taking breaks now andthen. After blowing for two hours, we were too tired tothink of cooking a proper dinner. We prepared some Maggiand were quite happy with it.

Then, settling into the tent took another hour. First wehad to spread the sleeping bags and get all our belongingswithin the shelter of the tent to save them from the frozendew drops settling all around. Then it was time to battle thecold—I began shivering within a few minutes of lying down.After layering up with a thermal inner, sweater, T-shirt, athick jacket, a skull cap and woollen socks, I went into thesleeping bag once again. This time, I was comfortable.

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(Clockwise) Jeevan was more of a friend and guide thanjust a priest; the peaks kept smiling at us as we wereblessed with clear skies throughout; the entire area

looked magical when viewed from higher ground; the teashop provided a centre for amiable company

� If you have enoughtime, go higher up fora trek to Tunga Mata,12 km away. It is anuphill trek through themountain ridge at theback of the lake.

� The Kamru Nag Lakeis another greatoption. The trek startsat Rohanda which is60 km from Mandi.One can club thisalong with PrasharLake, provided there’senough time.

Reach Prashar LakePrashar Lake is hidden awayhigh up in the mountains, farfrom the main road. In orderto reach the place, one needsto get to Mandi first. The lakeis 50 km by road from there.Buses are available till Baggior even till the PWD GuestHouse near the lake. For aone-way trip, a cab chargesanywhere between `1,500and `2,000.By Air Bhuntar (59 km) is thenearest airport. Air India hasa flight from Delhi whichdeparts at 6.30 am andarrives at 7.50 am. By Rail Kiratpur (125 km) isthe nearest railway station.Cabs from Kiratpur to Mandicharge around `2,500 for a one-way trip.By Road The best way toreach Prashar Lake is by road. Comfortable Volvobuses are available fromNew Delhi to Mandi.

NAVIGATOR

THINGS TO DO

FEBRUARY 2014 69

When camping, I always wake up early. And, greeted bya clear sky, we witnessed a most beautiful sunrise over thewide range of peaks in the distance. The morning was silentwith swooshes of a heavy wind dishevelling our hair andchilling our ears. As we stood there, taking in a moment ofbeauty which comes only a few times in a lifetime, I wasn’taware for a while that my eyes were watery with the deep-est feelings of joy, gratitude and freedom.

After a long silence, the sun shone brightly and we feltthe first pangs of hunger. But we decided to visit the templefirst and got the opportunity ofwitnessing the morning aartiwhich is generally not permittedto outsiders. Thanks to the cor-diality we had established withthe priest, we were even allowedentry inside the inner core of thetemple where liesthe idol and burial stone ofPrashar Rishi.

The previous night, we hadadded a layer of charcoal over theburning coals and covered it allwith foil paper. Now, all we need-ed to do was blow on it a bit tocook our breakfast of eggs, Maggiand toast. Then we set out for ahike around the place. And, whilewe were at it, we went to the nearby woods, a few hundredmetres uphill, and got some twigs and broken branches for acampfire at night.

It was a beautiful forest but finding dry, broken branchesand twigs was hard work yet quite adventurous. But, aftercollecting the wood, we didn’t have anything to carry it backin. The only option was to use Saptarshi’s jacket like a sackby tying the sleeves.

After the hike, it was time to get lunch ready. The menuwas dal, rice and chicken. And what we had for cookingutensils was a regular saucepan and only turmeric powder,oil and salt in the name of spices. Dal took an hour to cook,rice another hour. But the real fun was in preparing thechicken. We marinated it in some oil, salt and turmeric pow-der, wrapped it in foil with holes for the heat to passthrough, and simply placed it on the stove directly. It was

one of the most sumptuous and satisfying winter meals I have ever had.

Post-lunch, it was time for another hike to the other sideof the hill, a cup of evening tea and some snacks at thedhaba. The last night of the trip was drawing close. But thenwe remembered that the priest had invited us for theevening puja as well. Afterwards, he invited us to his littleroom behind the temple. While he treated us to some excel-lent tea, he told us the story behind Prashar Lake.

It’s a local belief that the lake was made by one strike ofPrashar Rishi’s weapon and it’sthe place where he meditated forthe last time before leaving hisbody. The lake is said to be sodeep that none till now has beenable to measure it. Legend alsosays the temple was built in the13th century by a baby from asingle tree.

Stories can serve to bond. Wetalked of legends of the past,which was followed by conversa-tions on subjects far and wide.But we needed to get back to thecampsite, have dinner and sleep.The night was indeed a bitstretched with the conversation,the campfire and the dinner but it

was worth it as we retired to sleep with a very happy feeling.The next morning brought another great day of blue

skies, a clear sunrise and beautiful views. This was followedby the soothing sight of a herd of sheep walking past therolling meadows. After tea and breakfast, we packed. Thepoignancy of leaving this heavenly place was compensatedby a heavy dose of adventure during the trek down to Baggi.

Being an avid trekker, I am used to steep mountaintrails, which are more difficult to tackle while descending.But the melting snow had led to mud, making the descentvery difficult. As we slipped and slid, the other challengewas to navigate properly because we neither had a guide norwas there a single human visible on that lonely trail. It tookus much longer than we had expected and when we reachedBaggi, we had missed the day’s bus. However, a shopkeepergave us a ride in his mini-truck to Mandi.

(Clockwise from left) Viewing the only guest house from adistance makes the place seem secluded and exotic;chilling out in the tent was as much fun as any of the

other experiences. It made us feel even closer toNature—a cosy shelter amidst open spaces; it was amoment of unbounded joy when I was welcomed by a

flock of sheep swarming past with their smiling shepherd

In Association With

Presents

Happy BabyHappy Baby& Mom Show& Mom Show

Child, in association with Pigeon, organized a fun-fi lled evening with the Happy Baby & Mom Show on December 24, 2013 at the High Street Phoenix mall, Lower Parel, Mumbai. As part of the event, mothers were invited with their children to walk the ramp, share their happy motherhood memory, showcase a talent with their kids, and answer questions posed by our esteemed panel of judges on parenting.

All the participants received goody bags worth Rs. 1,500 each with babycare and beauty products from Pigeon & Palmer’s. The winners were awarded a 6-month subscription of Child magazine along with goody bags worth Rs. 2,000 each. The event was judged by Ms. Geetika Sasan Bhandari (Child Editor), Dr. Pradnya Gadgil (Cunsultant - Paediatric Neurologist, Kokilaben Dhirubhai Ambani Hospital) and Smita Bansal (renowned TV Actress). The event helped us bring smiles to many mothers and babies! Visit Child’s Facebook page for more pictures (https://www.facebook.com/childmagazine).

A mother-daughter duo showcasing their dancing talent

A chic mom walking with her best accessory—her baby

Our talented participant gets groovy A new mom with her little one

The show in Mumbai was a super success, much like the previous one in Delhi.

Winners with judges Smita Bansal, Dr. Gadgil and the chief photographer from Chubby Clicks

The participants check out their goody bags from Pigeon and Palmer’s

Ms. Geetika Sasan Bhandari and Dr. Pradnya Gadgil our esteemed judges, with participants and winners

Fisher-Price toys and products on display

Ms. Anu Bindra and Ms. Vanika Mahajan, from Fisher-Price and Pigeon, respectively

A stylish mother-daughter duo sashaydown the ramp

A young one engrossed in playing with a toy at the Fisher-Price play zone

I N D I A ’ S F I R S T T R A V E L M A G A Z I N E

In Association With

ChhattisgarhT H E Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L E X P E R I E N C E

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A UNIQUELYINDIANEXPERIENCEFrom the rich history of Sirpur to temples of ancientbeliefs, all leading up to a wealth of art, cultureand Nature, the state of Chhattisgarh has it all.

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here’s something that makes the state of Chhattisgarh verygreen. It can be seen even before one touches down at theplace. The views from high up sitting in that aeroplane aregood enough—emerald greens of the grass, rectangular lushpatches of paddy, felled logs slanting on a dark green rug andthick lotus leaves that blanket the ponds in Raipur, the statecapital. India’s largest waterfall thundering down the blackboulders is here to mesmerise you. The hill mynah trill andwarble piping through the dense sal and moist teak forestswill please you. When jaded, you can slurp on aamath, aheady broth of basta (fresh bamboo shoots), and dig yourfork into phooto, the pebble-shaped chewy mushroom thatcan easily nudge the truffles and chanterelles off the dinnerplate. There’s salfi, too, that calls for a heady swig. There is aflurry of colour, vibrant shades of pink, yellow and red flow-ers amidst the green, even as farmers hunch over the fields,hum a tune and sow 23,000 varieties of paddy that lend thestate ‘the rice bowl of India’ sobriquet. During monsoon,there would be no salfi, the sap of the salfi tree, but therewould be red ant chutney on the menu and pandavani

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The ancient Buddhist site of Sirpuris one that every traveller wouldlove to pay a visit. Every standingpiece of monument makes it worthvisiting once in a lifetime

FEBRUARY 2014 75

singers on the streets. In the haats, you can pick dokra fig-urines and exquisitely-carved combs. In the Kutumsar caves,you can see incredibly stunning stalactite and stalagmite for-mations. Anywhere you go in Chhattisgarh, you’ll find some-thing enticing and captivating that you’ll want to add moredays to your holiday .

HERITAGE RICHNESS: SIRPUR A town called Sirpur or Shripur, which was the capital of theSomvanshi kings, was mentioned in inscriptions datingbetween the fifth and eighth centuries. But the placebecame an important centre for Buddhists between the sixthand 10th centuries. Mentioned in Hiuen Tsang’s travelogue,Sirpur has become a regular on every Buddhist’s itinerary. Inrecent excavations, a rich treasure of Buddhist temples andbeautifully carved stone doors and panels have beenunearthed by archaeologists. One can see colossal Buddhastatues that date back to the period between the sixth and10th centuries when Sirpur was a hub of Buddhism. Thefindings of the recent excavations have been displayed

under a makeshift shed. At other archaeological sites, nearly200 Buddha viharas, statutes of Jain Tirthankars, and aShiva temple have also been dug out. Historians and archae-ologists are intrigued by the presence of statues belongingto the distinct Shaiva, Vaishnava, Jain and Buddhist religionsat one place.

The Lakshman Temple and the Gandheshwar Templeget quick mentions the moment one talks of Sirpur. A blue-white signboard near the temple entrance says it was built in the eighth century by Vasata, daughter of KingSuryavarma of Magadh and mother of Mahashivagupta, whoruled over Mahakosala with Sirpur as its capital. The templehas been declared to be of national importance under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites andRemains Act (1958).

The temple conforms to ancient architectural principlesof using bricks and later strengthening it with stone. Thevagaries of nature have added black streaks to the red of thebricks, but the intricate carving still takes your breath away.The temple’s corbelled high roof inspires awe; the exteriors

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have sunken doorways and urn-shaped motifs in mouldedbrick. On the central lintel are carvings of Vishnu’s avatarsand in the series of panels in the main doorway are delicatelychiselled couples. On the bank of the Mahanadi is theGandheshwar Temple, dedicated to Shiva and sitting amidstseveral Sati pillars and other shrines faithful to the Jain,Buddhist and Hindu styles and traditions of architecture.Devotees throng this temple during a three-day mela inJanuary-February. It is held on Shivratri, near theGandheshwar Temple. Organised by the ChhattisgarhTourism Board, the main objective of the Sirpur NationalDance and Music Festival which took place over January 4-6this year, is to bring artistes into its cultural family and createinternational cultural amity. An initiative to bring together allthe various dance and music forms of the country on oneplatform, this grand festival showcased the diverse art formsof the country. Eminent artistes of national and internationalrepute participated in the festival and showcased Indian clas-sical, folk and tribal music and dance on the enchantingarchaeological stage of Sirpur. The Dalai Lama visited Sirpurfor the second time in the last one year. He travelled to theplace by road amid tight security and meditated for 20 min-utes at the Chanda Dai caves near Sirpur on the hills ofSinghadhurva, located 17 km from the town.

EXPERIENCE FAITH Rajim is the site of the fifth Kumbh that is celebrated at theconfluence of the Mahanadi, Pairi and Sondur rivers, alsoknown as the Prayag of Chhattisgarh. It’s similar to the tradi-tional Punni mela which is held at the Rajiv Lochan templeevery year. The ancient temple town tells a legend, whichsays it was created when the nectar from Lord Vishnu’s lotusfell on the spot where now stands Rajim’s most famous tem-ple—the Rajiv Lochan Temple. The five petals of the lotusare part of what is now known as the Panchkoshi Dham—Kuleshwar, Fingeshwar, Kopeshwar, Patneshwar andPateshwar. Be at Rajim during the Rajiv Lochan Festival(February 16-March 1 every year). Thousands throng thissleepy village to take a dip in the Triveni Sangam, offerprayers at the Rajiv Lochan Temple and carry back hope of salvation.

The history of Raipur dates back to the ninth century.Visit the Mahant Ghasidas Memorial Museum, consideredone of the top 10 museums in the country. Besides, there’sthe Purkhauti Muktangan—a museum maintained by theCultural Department of Chhattisgarh, which displays theartifacts, folk dances, arts and other things great about thestate. Vivekanand Sarovar, popularly known as the BuddhaTalab, is a must-see. Said to be more than 600 years old, the

(Left to right) One of the temples in the ancient town of Rajim; theBhoramdeo group of temples showcase some of the finest templearchitecture present in the country at the moment; the collections

at the Purkhauti Muktangan represent the much-valued art andculture of Chhattisgarh living through the passage of time

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Talab originally spread over 67 hectares. Not too far away isthe Dudhadhari Math, a 450-year-old temple where beauti-ful figures are carved in stone, narrating stories from theRamayana. Don’t miss the Town Hall and the RamakrishnaMission, too.

Previously known as Champajhar, Champaran borrowsits solemnity from Saint Vallabhacharya, the founder of theVallabh sect. Saint Vallabhacharya was born in Champaran inthe 15th century and his followers later built a temple in hishonour. Located 60 km from Raipur, a huge arch welcomesyou. Past the kiosks is a long corridor lined with brightly-painted pillars that merge into a huge courtyard skirted byrooms. The place is considered the holiest by the followersof the Vallabh sect.

Bhoramdeo is another place of utmost faith. It is alsoknown as the Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh and has attractedaesthetes for its sensual carvings, architects for its intriguinglayout and the devout, for the deity, who is believed to fulfilall wishes. Interestingly, the 11th-century temple is dedicat-ed to Lord Shiva, who is called Bhoramdeo by the Gondtribals, the earliest inhabitants of this area.

Dongargarh can never be missed on the list of placesin Chhattisgarh that attract the maximum pilgrims. Perched1,600 ft up on a hilltop, the Maa Bamleshwari Devi Templeis of great spiritual importance. Another prominent shrine inthe vicinity is the Chhoti Bamleshwari Temple. The rope-way in Dongargarh is the only passenger ropeway inChhattisgarh. Shri Danteshwari Temple is a beautiful shrineis dedicated to Goddess Danteshwari, and is one of the 52shrines of Shakti, the divine feminine, in India. It is situat-ed in Dantewada, a town 73 km from Jagdalpur, Chhattis-garh.The temple is one of the ancient heritage sites of Indiaand is an embodiment of the religious and socio-culturalhistory of the Bastar region. Amidst its sculptural beautyand rich tradition, this beautiful temple is situated in a spa-cious courtyard, which echoes peace and tranquillity. Thetemple is divided into four parts such as Garbh Griha, MahaMandap, Mukhya Mandap and Sabha Mandap. GarbhaGriha and Maha Mandap were constructed with huge stonepieces. It is said that several statues were brought fromBarsur and were established here. A Garud Pillar has beenerected in front of entrance of the temple, which was

(Left & right) A priest offersflowers to the goddess at theMa Bamleshwari Devi Temple

at Dongargarh; a traditionalfolk dance in Bastar

brought from the temple of Barsur. Buit in the 12th century,the Shri Mahamaya Devi Mandir of Ratanpur is known forits rich architecture and religious significance. Located at a distance of 25 km from Bilaspur, this temple is sur-rounded by lush green hills. The temple has dual statues ofgoddess Mahamaya—the front one is called the MahishasurMardini and the hind statue is believed to be that ofGoddess Saraswati. During Navratri, devotees flock to these three temples.

DEPTH OF ART & CULTUREAnthropologists believe that Chhattisgarh sits on one of theoldest rocks in the Indian subcontinent, and the ancient resi-dents of the state are one of the earliest indigenous inhabi-tants. It is even difficult to carbon-date the beginnings of theland or its people. But what one can say with conviction is thatthese people have been in this region for thousands of years; itfinds mention in the Ramayana, Mahabharat, the Puranas andthe travelogue of Hiuen Tsang, the Chinese traveller. Andwhere there’s history, there’s bound to be a rich presence ofart and culture. Their value can’t be measured in just any

‘value definer.’ Go deep into the depths of this culturalcocoon in the state and the first place that comes to the mindis Bastar, where the sheer range and artistry of bell metal(dokra) work can take everyone’s breath away. Made of80 percent copper and 20 percent tin, dokra (literally ‘old’) isperhaps as old as civilisation itself. Dokra craftsmen, knownas ghadwa, live primarily in Kondagaon and Jagdalpur.

Bell metal motifs and moulds have kept pace with thetimes, but the tribals still use the ancient technique of cireperdue or the lost wax method. Artists say that cire perdue waspractised in ancient civilisations but the coiled threadmethod is exclusive to Bastar. That’s not all, though. Thesoil of the Indravati lends its sheen to the famous terracottahandicrafts of the state. Made by the kumhars (potters) withsimple tools like a potter’s wheel and a wooden spatula, wetclay moulds are baked on a slow fire.

Wood-carving is also a major handicrafts draw. With 40percent of the state under forests and nearly 10,000 indus-tries dependent on the jungle for raw materials, it is no sur-prise that Chhattisgarh has a rich tradition of wood-carving.Tobacco containers, combs, musical instruments, and men-

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(Clockwise from top left) The dance, the music, the games, thefood and the culture—the rich tradition of this state has beencarried on through generations of inhabitants whose ancestry

dates back to the earliest of times. We are lucky to be alive at atime when we can still see a glimpse of our history through the

kaleidoscope of Chhattisgarh’s art and culture

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hirs (pillars erected in memory of the dead) are some of themost conspicuous wood-carvings.

The best place to take a sneak peek into tribal culture isthe village haat, a weekly marketplace where not only essen-tial everyday items are bartered, but the haat also serves as ameeting place for tribals who trek miles to sell theirwares/produce. Here, one can buy an intricately-woven fishtrap, a carved wooden comb, mahua flowers, quaff the headylocal brew, get a traditional tattoo done, eat the phooto, evenwager a buck or two on a cockfight. Some of the importanthaats of Bastar are: Bahigaon, Barsur, Bastar, Chingitari,Kolong, Mardum and Narainpur. The haat is a weekly affairbut the madai is a moving fair. The most famous madais areBastar, Bhadrakali, Jagdalpur, Nangur, Ramaram, Dantewadaand Chitrakote.

The indigenous people of Chhattisgarh have lived in isola-tion for years and in the course of time, have developed verydistinct dance forms. Not only seasons, special occasions toohave exclusive dance styles. During the hareli (seed-sowingseason), the tribals perform the Gerhi dance on stilts while theSaila is performed with wooden sticks and poles as props. TheBaigas and the Gonds perform the Karma dance during theKarma festival, which is associated with fertility. The Mariaswear bison-horned headgear for the Gaur dance in which theperformers imitate the movements of the bison. Sua is per-formed only by women and the cowherds dance the RautNacha. Not only do the indigenous have a God of Dance,there is also a festival dedicated to him. The Bhils and Gondsperform the Bhagoriya to appease the God of Dance. Drums,

cymbals and flutes are the most common musical instruments.But the Murias boast of 18 musical instruments and Muriamen play the drums, while only the women play the cymbals.

WITHIN THE SYLVAN EXPANSEChhattisgarh, as mentioned earlier, is a place wherein theNature Gods have always blessed manking with open arms.Having said that, it’s one of the greenest places in the coun-try. And when you are there, Mainpat is the first place tobe as one cannot complete Nature travel in the state with-out it. Think of adjectives before you step into Mainpat.The Shimla of Surguja. Chhattisgarh’s beautiful hill station.A Tibet within Chhattisgarh. The only town inChhattisgarh to have a Buddha temple. Host to the MainpatMahotsav that is a must-visit for all adventure-lovers, it is ahill station known for its waterfalls, its statuesque sal andteak forests, its Tibet connection, gurgling streams, beauti-ful waterfalls. Situated 217 km from Bilaspur and roughly45 km from Ambikapur, Mainpat is a tiny village which,according to legend, was visited by Rama during his 14-year exile. Mainpat, however, does not borrow frommythology. It owes its fame to a religious leader. In 1959,when the Dalai Lama sought refuge in India, countlessTibetans migrated to India. The Government of Indiaoffered land to the migrants in various parts of the country.Mainpat was one of them. That decision changed the fateof the dusty village that soon acquired a Tibetan hueand earned the ‘Tibet in Chhattisgarh’ (then MadhyaPradesh) sobriquet.

(Clockwise from top left) Wood-carvings, dokra work, bell metal,jewellery and the fabrics are among the most exciting traditional

art and craft products, tempting for any aesthete

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(Clockwise from top left) The Kutumsar Caves; thewildlife of Chhattisgarh is varied and spread overa number of sanctuaries and national parks; theChitrakote Falls are a sight for sore eyes

Talk about the great waterfalls in the state and one has totalk about the Chitrakote Falls. From Raipur, you need todrive about five to six hours to Jagdalpur, the headquarters ofBastar district, to see the rain gods at their glorious best, fortherein lies the waterfall. Often referred to as the country’sNiagara, Chitrakote is a horseshoe-shaped waterfall where thewater of the Indravati thunders down 90 ft. The mouth of thewaterfall is almost 1,000 ft wide. On an ordinary day you cansee three streams and during the rains, at least seven.

Moving on from the waterfall, there are some amazingcaves which are worth a visit for every traveller. From timesunknown, the little drops of trickling water in the dark con-fines of the Kutumsar Cave have sculpted the most exquis-ite limestone formations of stalagmites and stalactites. Amud track and stone steps lead into the 4,500-ft-long and215-ft-deep Kutumsar Cave. To enter, one needs to walkdown an iron staircase where the limestone art is visible. Justmake sure you have torchlight or a Petromax when you visitthe cave. It is truly breathtaking.

The 250-metre-long and four-metre-deep Kailash Gufa,located in Jashpur, is 40 m above sea level. Nearly 30 m fromthe main entrance is a stalagmite and stalactite formationthat looks like a statue of Lord Shiva. Here, the cave spreadsitself into a huge hall that has been christened ‘the Balcony.’

Notified as the Asian Biosphere Reserve, the iconicKanger Valley National Park is spread over 2,000 sq km.

Named after the Kanger river, this forest has the presenceof trees like teak, sal, tendu, sirsa, mahua and amla.Tamarind, medicinal plants, creepers and herbs also abound. Talking about fauna, the forest boasts of the rare Bastar hillmynah, gaurs, tigers, leopards, macaques, otters, crocodiles, the rare mouse deer, flying squirrels and civet cats, along with a fabulous selection of avifauna. The park is located ata distance of 27 km from Jagdalpur and is open fromNovember to June.

Another must-visit for the wildlife enthusiast is theAchanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary which sits smug in thelap of the Maikal Hills, and is barely 58 km from Bilaspur.Fed by streams of Narmada, Sone and Johilla rivers, it is sur-rounded by dense sal and bamboo vegetation. Established asa sanctuary in 1975, Achanakmar, combined withAmarkantak, is now notified as a biosphere reserve. Thesanctuary’s landscape is mountainous and boasts of severalhills of different elevations. Sihawal Sagar, Pandavani Talab,Tangli-Pathar, Nagbohara, Lakshman Dogri, and KhuriaJalashay are some of best spots inside the sanctuary for animal sighting.

Other wildlife sanctuaries and national parks in the stateare Pamer (442 sq km, nearest railway station is Jagdalpur),Gomarda (227 sq km, nearest railway station is Raigarh),Badalkhol (225 sq km, nearest railway station is Raigarh),Indravati (Dantewada) and Guru Ghasidas (Koriya).PH

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GETTING THEREThe domestic airport at Raipur, thestate capital, is linked to all major

airports in the country. There are dailyflights to Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai,

Hyderabad, Kolkata, Ahmedabad andVishakapatanam. Major carriers operate

regular flights to Raipur. Raipur andBilaspur railway stations connect well

with major rail heads in India. Anexcellent network of roads and

National Highways connect all themajor cities and towns of Chhattisgarh

to other parts of the country.Chattisgarh State Road Transport and private operators run regular

bus services.

ACCOMMODATIONThere are a lot of private hotels at all

the important destinations. Thefollowing are run by Chhattisgarh

Tourism Department, which can bebooked by the given number below

Dandami Luxury Resort, ChitrakoteSonbhadra Tourist Resort, AmadobHotel Johar Chhattisgarh, RaipurHareli Eco Resort, Barnawapara

Hiuen Tsang Tourist Resort, SirpurShaila Tourist Resort, Mainpat

Bardiha Lake View Cottage, Gangrel

HEALTH & SAFETYThe state tourism department has

paid due attention to the basic

amenities and facilities necessary.

Restrooms, telephone booths, snack

bars and restaurants, petrol pumps

and motor repair stations, kiosks and

first-aid facilities are present at

regular distances. Chhattisgarh

Tourism Information centres at

various key destinations have been

set up and they aid tourists with the

required information.

CLIMATE The climate of Chhattisgarh is mainly

tropical, humid and sub-humid. The

climate is hot because of its position

on the Tropic of Cancer. May is the

hottest month and December-January

are the coldest ones. The best time to

visit the state is in the months from

October to March.

NAVIGATORThe Chhattisgarh Tourism Board, with a strong backing from the state

government of Chhattisgarh, has been making concerted efforts to enhance the infrastructure around tourist destinations.

For reservations, call 1800 102 6415; web tourism.cg.gov.in; email visitcg@gmail.com

ManifestoO P I N I O N S & O B S E R V A T I O N S

THE SENSE OF HEARINGOur Columnists Recount Their Most Acoustic Memories

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Pari Tibba, as the paharis call it, or Hill of the Fairies, is a lonely uninhabited mountain east of Mussoorie, at about 6,000 feet. I have visited it occasionally, scram-bling up its rocky slopes where the only paths are the

narrow tracks made by goats and small hill cattle. Rhododen-drons and a few stunted oaks are the only trees on the hillside, but at the summit is a small, grassy plateau ringed by pine trees.

It may have been on this plateau that the early settlers tried building their houses. All their attempts met with failure. The area seemed to attract the worst of weather. Why Pari Tibba should be struck so often by lightning is some-thing of a mystery to me. Its soil and rock seem no different from any other mountain in the vicinity. Perhaps a geologist can explain the phenom-enon. Or perhaps it has something to do with the fairies.

“Why do they call it that?’ I asked an old resident. “Is it haunted?’’

“So they say,” he said. “Years ago, two young runaway lovers took shel-ter for the night in one of the ruins. There was a bad storm and they were struck by lightning. Their charred bodies were found a few days later. They came from different communities and were buried far from each other, but their spirits hold a tryst every night under the pine tree.”

There are no ruins on Pari Tibba, and I can only presume that the debris was taken away for use elsewhere. And I did not stay on the hill after sunset. Had I tried climbing downhill in the dark, I may have ended up as the third ghost. The lovers may have resented my intrusion, or, who knows, they might have welcomed change. After 100 years together on a windswept mountain, even the most ardent of lovers must tire of each other.

Who could have been seeing ghosts on Pari Tibba after sunset? The only inhabitants are the langurs, who feed on rhododendron buds that contain an intoxicating nectar. After din-ing to excess, the young monkeys tumble about in high spirits. Himalayan black bulbuls also feed on the nectar, and this could account for their cheekiness. They are aggressive little creatures, whose song is as musical as the bray of an ass.

Perhaps the fl owers have something to do with the fairy legend. In April and May, Pari Tibba is covered with St. John’s

Wort. The paharis call the fl ower a wild rose, and it does resemble one. In Europe, this fl ower is believed to drive away evil. But do not tread on St. John’s Wort after sunset, lest a fairy horseman carry you off. By day, it is curative—for everything from insanity to injury. Can this fl ower be connect-ed with the fairy legend?

There is yet another legend. A shepherd boy, playing his fl ute, discovered a beautiful silver snake basking on a rock. The snake said to the boy, “I was a princess once, but a jealous witch cast a spell over me and turned me into a snake. This spell can

only be broken if someone who is pure of heart kisses me thrice. Years have passed, but I haven’t found anyone.” The shepherd boy took the snake in his arms and, at the third kiss, found himself holding a beautiful princess. What happened afterwards is anybody’s guess. There are snakes on Pari Tibba, and though they are probably harmless, I have never tried taking them in my arms. But I’m all for perpetuating the legend.

One of India’s most celebrated authors and Padma Bhushan awardee,Mr. Bond gives Discover India an exclusive and fresh take on the hills.

IT IS SAID THAT MOST FLOWERS, WHEN

THEY DIE, BECOME FAIRIES. THIS MIGHT BE ESPECIALLY TRUE

OF THE DAZZLING YELLOW FLOWERS

OF ST. JOHN’S WORTON PARI TIBBA

THE RUSTICOBSERVER

R U S K I N B O N D

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The Modernist artists from India’s western region, led by the Progressive Group, and the modern art painters of Bengal, laid the fulcrum which essen-tially opened windows to the new age artists. Some

of these top Modernists are not accessible anymore, except at auctions by Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Bonhams, and domestic auctioneers like Saffronart and Osian’s. They are also available in limited numbers in a few galleries.

The coming of the ‘new age’ brought with it artists such as Subodh Gupta, Atul Dodiya, Paresh Maity, T.V. Santosh, Bose Krishna-machari, Jagannath Panda and Jitish Kallat, to share a few names. Some of these artists are selling at auctions at very tall prices and ushered in what is known as ‘new’ or ‘contemporary’ art with their paintings, sculptures, digital and installation art.

Modern art is seen to have stretched from the 1940s to around 2000, but contemporary art truly began gaining ground from the end of the 1990s. That’s not to say that Modernist art ceased to exist, but con-temporary art introduced a language that was not bound to any particular medium or subject. This brand of art saw the introduction of photography, video, digital and other diverse media being infused into artistic creations. Strikingly contemporaneous subjects also began to surface and, besides, the subjects were not distinctly ‘fi gurative’ or ‘abstract.’ They were often quite seamless.

Well-known contemporary artist Kallat once told me that the medium is really just a vehicle to germinate an idea. “So, the realisation of a piece as sculpture, photograph, painting or video would be determined by what might best deliver the freight

of metaphors and meanings that make up the work,” he said. Krishnamachari, another extremely popular face of contemporary art, echoes Kallat’s views. “Everything is ‘Art.’ I work with what-ever I am interested in. My work is an amalgamation of every-thing from drawings, paintings, painterly assemblages, sculptures to installations and architectural works,” he says.

People would be familiar with the London-based artist of In-dian origin, Anish Kapoor, who has created waves with his mas-sive works of installation art which have enhanced public spaces.

Renowned Modern/contemporary artist Paresh Maity says, “Public art is tremendously in vogue in Europe, the US and other parts of the world. In India, it is rare and I felt I should go public.” Paresh’s sculptural works in-clude a 10x10-foot tortoise, giant ants and a crab made from scrap motorcy-cle parts and cast bronze pieces, each weighing 500 kilogrammes.

Quite a few contemporary artists are global in the delineation of their sphere of art. While maintaining their distinct identity, some may have been inspired by great international artists and are exhibiting internationally. If

you’re interested, visit galleries such as New Delhi’s Art Alive (which also has a space in Gurgaon, Haryana), Latitude 28, Ex-hibit 320 and Gallery Espace. In Mumbai, you can head to Sak-shi, Guild, Tao, Jehangir Art and Museum Gallery. In Kolkata, my pick would be Galerie 88, Akar Prakar, Aakriti and CIMA, and, of course, an afternoon or evening at Kolkata’s Academy of Fine Arts and the Birla Academy of Art & Culture.

Ashoke is a reputed art writer and critic who contributed to Discover India in 1988, our launch year. He returns to give us insights into Indian art.

THE ARTFILES

A S H O K E N A G

CONTEMPORARY ART INTRODUCED A

LANGUAGE THAT WAS NOT BOUND TO ANY

MEDIUM OR SUBJECT... NOT DISTINCTLY ‘FIGURATIVE’ OR

‘ABSTRACT’ BUT OFTEN QUITE SEAMLESS

FEBRUARY 2014 89

One of the many things I love about travelling isthat it allows me to meet people I wouldn’t usually end up meeting. Sharing a compartment on a long train journey, where the seats face one another, is a

situation especially suited for small talk and conviviality. Some-times these meetings can be quite serendipitous. I recentlytravelled to Jodhpur by train and struck up a conversation withmy cabin-mate who turned out to be running a charity organi-sation. I had just the week before started to look for a way to give back a little of my time to myadopted home of India, so the timingwas perfect. As it turns out, I’ll bemeeting my cabin-mate soon to seehow I can contribute.

On an earlier train journey, the roll of the cabin-companion diceturned out to be equally beneficial.I had boarded the train in a rush andwas hungry, but I was pretty sure that there would be a meal of sortsto be found on the train or on one ofthe coming platforms. “This is India,there’s always something to eat nearby,” I thought to myself as I ran past the snack shops and just madeit onto the train in time. How wrong I was. No meal wouldbe served and no sellers of that classic train soup of pepperytomato, or of mutton curry, or of bun omelettes, or even of chai,walked the aisles.

When my co-traveller made a joke about my loudly grum-bling stomach, and I explained how I had presumed I would beable to buy something on board, he took pity. At the next stop, without telling me what he was going to do, he dashed off the train to buy me a couple of packets of crisps—all that was avail-able at what was now quite a late hour at the only open stall

at the station. He almost didn’t make it back on board before the train pulled out. It wasn’t a healthy dinner, but I was very thankful for it, and touched that he had gone out of his way to be kind to me.

Very few times have I shared a cabin with anyone less than very friendly and generous, and only once have I had a journey so disturbed as to feel compelled to do something about it: I resorted to throwing a spare folded-up sheet into the face of a gentleman snoring wildly on the bunk below me. He grunted,

turned over and only the soothing clatter of the train remained.

I’m not sure how much of a role being female and foreign has played in the treatment I have received during all my travels but, certainly, “Where are you from?” is an easy and rather unthreatening way of startinga conversation and smoothing over the awkwardness of having to share a confined—and, if you’re lucky—cosy space with a stranger. And when the train staff bring the sheets, it’s the perfect signal that conversation can now neatly come to an end and everyone can go to sleep. No one

expects any long-drawn-out “Good nights.”In the morning, there is often only the time for fare-thee-

wells before disembarking, having had an enjoyable journey, with pleasant company, and no expectations of having to swap last names, numbers or addresses without good cause. Some-times I think to myself: If only all social interactions could be so agreeable and defined.

Victoria writes for many magazines and newspapers all over the world. She travels extensively and gives us an outside-in perspective.

THE EXPATDIARIES

V I C T O R I A B U R R O W S

TRAVELLING ALLOWS YOU TO MEET PEOPLE

YOU WOULDN’T USUALLY END UP MEETING AND,

SOMETIMES, THESE MEETINGS CAN TURN

OUT TO BE QUITE SERENDIPITOUS

I

90 FEBRUARY 2014

It’s not easy to talk about Himalayan treks in my social circles. Most people think trekking is beyond them.They think it is similar to climbing mountains—thatyou need special gear and training. Rather than trying to

convince you that trekking is not beyond you, I’m going to list four easy treks, perfect as a start to Himalayan trekking.

The first is Dayara Bugyal, in Uttarakhand, which tops my list of the prettiest meadow treks. It is stunning, where miles ofcarpet-like lush green undulating meadows are spread in frontof you. The snow-covered Mt Ban-derpoonch looms over the meadows,and you can even walk barefoot onthe meadows the whole day. In the evening, you can camp under oaktrees skirting the meadows, as themoon washes the landscape with aluminescent glow that will promptanother walk through the grass.Dayara is easily accessible—a 35-kmdrive from Uttarkashi gets you toBarsu, followed by a morning trekfrom Barsu to Dayara Bugyal. Thecaretaker of the GMVN at Barsu orthe Dayara Resort can help organise the trek for you. Dayara, however, requires camping gear.

The second would be Kedarkantha, again in Uttarakhand.I’m yet to come across a trek with campsites as pretty as Kedar-kantha, and I’ll go as far as to say that I have not come acrossany trek in India that has prettier clearings. Every half-hour, above 8,000 feet, just when you are tiring, an almost-circularclearing appears through the forest, a grassy knoll that’s perfect for a breather. Even gazing at them is refreshing. You start with a long, beautiful drive from Dehradun, and reach Sankri inwestern Uttarakhand. You can stay at the GMVN at Sankri or

Hotel Swargarohini. Again, the caretakers of these lodges can organise the Kedarkantha trek and camping gear for you.

The third trek on this list would be Sandakphu, in West Bengal. Spread over five days, the Sandakphu trek climbs over superb oak and rhododendron forests. When the trek fi nally tops the ridge line, your jaw will drop as you see the ranges between Kanchenjunga and Everest. These magnificent views will stay with you forever. The start of the trek is in Maneyb-hanjang, an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Darjeeling. There are

many lodges along the way and all you need are a decent pair of boots and warm clothes.

The final trek would be HamptaPass, in Himachal Pradesh. I wassomewhat sceptical about putting Hampta down as an ‘easy’ trek, and I’d rather classify it as an ‘easy-moderate’ trek—for the tiring pass crossing. That said, the trek is a fasci-nating journey of rapidly-changing scenery, so much so that it is like a movie in fast forward. From foreststo meadows, from lofty summitsto the desert of Spiti, the trek has everything your nature-starved eyes

could seek. In fact, as the trek ends, you will be left gushing with emotion. I strongly recommend the Hampta Pass for its scenic beauty. The trek starts out of Manali and ends at Chatru, on the Kaza highway in Spiti. You need camping gear for the trek—easily available in Manali. If you’ve seen Yeh Jawani Hai Deewani, you’ll be able to identify the trek—though I have to say the movie stretches things incredulously!

Arjun is the founder of Indiahikes, a blogger and an experienced trekker. He takes a keen interest in training youngsters to appreciate our trails.

THE TRAILORGANISER

A R J U N M A J U M D A R

FROM LUSH MEADOWS TO ENDLESS PEAKS, A TREK CAN OFFER EVERYTHING YOUR NATURE-STARVED

EYES NEED. BUT START SMALL AND ENSURE YOUR PREP IN TERMS

OF FITNESS AND GEAR

FEBRUARY 2014 91

One didn’t have grand plans to bring in the New Year, no parties or quiet getaways. Unlike me, a young girl had a New Year plan—she wanted to travel all the way from Los Angeles to a tiny Hima-

layan village called Gopalpur, in Himachal Pradesh.It would be quite something if it were possible to substi-

tute people who couldn’t make it for their vacation, just like schools have substitute teachers to fill in. Speaking of vacationsand teaching brings me back to the girl from LA, who was tovisit Gopalpur as a volunteer to teachchildren basic English at the Tibetan Children’s Village (TCV), a school for refugees, in exchange for freelodging and boarding. Somethingwe today call ‘Voluntourism.’ The girl couldn’t make it which, in turn, changed my ‘no particular plans.’I seemed to be the only substituteavailable to my roommate, who wascoordinating the programme at Go-palpur, an hour away from our home in Dharamsala.

I was bringing in the New Year just like I’d brought in every otherevening, with a few drinks of OldMonk rum by the fire. By midnight, I began to feel quitealtruistic and offered to join the programme and teach children, though I had no prior experience. The next 10 days would beabout conversations, poetry reading, word games or anythingthat let me plant a creative germ within these beautiful youngminds. In an attempt to bring in some fun, I took the classroomout of the four walls, away from the blackboard and to themeadows, under the blue skies and warm winter sun.

The large school campus was surrounded by lush tea plan-tations, with the backdrop of red, green, yellow and white Ti-

betan prayer flags, fluttering against the clear blue sky and the snow-capped Dhauladhar mountains. It was picture-perfect, with cheerful and inspiring children scampering about.

A lot of the kids at school were born into nomadic fami-lies in Tibet and this style of ‘classroom’ suited them more. They were sent away to India to get a better education under the blessings of the 14th Dalai Lama, as well as to escape theChinese regime and propaganda. Among the kids who stayed back for the three-month-long winter break, around 200 were

orphans who had nowhere to go—the school was their home and the staff their family. The fact that we ‘teach-ers’ could get away from routine jobs to volunteer because some children had nowhere to go for the holidays worried me initially. But I took solace in the fact that the kids left behind opted to come back to the classroom and use their ‘holiday’ to improve their English, math or science.

I picked up a few more Tibetan words than they picked up English, and got to learn about their lives. The orphaned children seemed to have no complaints about not having

a family or a home or a holiday. The school provided them with free education and boarding, but couldn’t please them with the dinner... it was mostly thukpa, a soupy noodle dish with meat and veggies that apparently keeps you warm. I can vouch for one thing: Children and noodle soup ensured that my New Year began in the warmest and most content way possible. And that I learnt more than I could teach.

Based in Dharamsala, Abhishek has written for many publications,including The New York Times. He also reports on the Dalai Lama.

IT WOULD BE QUITE SOMETHING IF IT

WERE POSSIBLE TO SUBSTITUTE PEOPLE

WHO COULDN’T MAKE IT FOR THEIR

VACATION, LIKE SOME SCHOOLS HAVE

SUBSTITUTE TEACHERS

THE GYPSYCHRONICLES

A B H I S H E K M A D H U K A R

92 FEBRUARY 2014

Most of us are so caught up in our daily urbanlives that the thought of taking a few days off is at once liberating and scary. No matter what the duration of the vacation, there’s this niggling

little bulb of doubt. I’ve found that the best way to switch it off is to take a vacation—even if it’s just 24 hours—without a planned itinerary. Just land up somewhere, spend a few hours walking around aimlessly, have a few drinks and a biggish din-ner (preferably under an open sky) and then sleep till you wantto wake up. And, repeat.

We all know the feeling: It takes a couple of hours for our nerves tosettle down, and nothing does thatbetter than a sunset. Most of us alsotend to be wired 24x7 when we’rein the city, so putting your phone on silent (I haven’t had to guts to put it off, yet!) is a boon, but I wouldn’t recommend putting off the TV. Why? Because when you’re in thecity, you feel guilty about spending a few minutes in front of it, and thisis your chance to catch reruns ofreruns without admitting that there’s something better you could be doing.Finally, the conversion of this day into a ‘vacation day’ needs a change of scenery. Open a window, sit out on the balcony or go to the place’s roof. That should do it.

I’ve been introduced to a number of great locations sinceI took over as Editor of Discover India, but it will be a whilebefore I can visit even half-a-dozen of them. Most of the placeson my list are at least 10 km from any major urban dwelling,but I try to make sure there’ll be cellphone network and Wi-fi .If you take all of these into account, the best option for youis a homestay. There’s warmth, there’s no strict schedule and

there’s the chance to just be by yourself. From Uttarakhand to Kerala, the concept of homestays has changed the way we vacation, as more and more people want to cut expensive and elaborate tours without compromising on the experience. There are the obvious advantages—authentic local cuisine, basic amenities, the chance to interact with more than just other tourists and, of course, access to locals-endorsed shops, haats and markets. The most frequent visitors to homestays are foreigners, because they want a fuss-free, real experience.

Homestays have another advantage: They appreciate you. Because you step right into a family’s dwelling, you’re looked after and they want you to be comfortable. We guests reciprocate by not being too demanding, which is a very wel-come break from our city-being. Itis almost cathartic, like discovering a part of you that was forced by stress to retreat deep inside.

Whether you’re heading to the backwaters, the beach or to the hills, I’d highly recommend a homestay, especially if you have kids. There are bound to be other children around,

and they can skip and play while you get that extra few min-utes to bask in the wonderful glow of nothing-to-do. Breathe in the local settings, eat something that’s been cooked fresh and just let time caress your tired body and mind. There’s bound to be a lot of silence, the kind that lets you hear all your thoughts. Now, the next step is to learn to keep it quiet. How? Begin by shutting your eyes and taking a deep breath.

Vivek Pareek is the Editor of Discover India magazine. When he can travel, he likes it to be casual, unhurried and unplanned.

THE INFORMEDGUESTBOOK

V I V E K PA R E E K

THE BEST PART ABOUT A HOMESTAY IS THAT

THE OWNERS AND OTHER GUESTS TEND TO LEAVE YOU ALONE. THERE’S NO PRESSING NEED TO EXPLORE, TO PLAN OR EVEN TO STEP OUT OF YOUR COTTAGE

FEBRUARY 2014 93

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Moët Ice Impérial Summer Escape TrunkNothing adds a touch of flair to a vacation quite like Moët & Chandon’s latest holiday accessory. This

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Afterlight Image-editing apps areavailable on the App Store a dimea dozen, but Afterlight is perhapsthe most feature-rich one and itallows you to upload to a varietyof social networks includingInstagram, where you can furtherapply filters to the image. Camera Awesome Imaging appCamera Awesome segregatesvarious editing options andsimplifies the user experience inan intuitive way. It also offers

unique frames and textures. And itoffers a number of in-apppurchases for Android and iOS.Republique There are not manygames that provide the stealthygameplay and intrigue Republiquedoes on iOS. It’s stunninglybeautiful and combines this withinnovative gameplay mechanicsand an immersive story. Zenga TV Watching TV on the gois not the most initiativeexperience for the average Indian.

Zenga TV has been on a missionto solve this issue for the last fiveyears. Its mobile apps for iOS,Android and Windows Phoneprovide the most exhaustivelibrary of TV content for mobiles,and also exclusive content of itsown. Additionally, Zenga TVimplements its own proprietarycompression technology thatcompresses video to such adegree that it can be streamedeven on 2G networks.

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Favourite destination and why?Hampi. Even though it’s a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site, Hampi is atreasury of temple ruins andmonoliths from the VijayanagaraEmpire era. What not to miss?Walk or hire a scooty or bike. Themust-sees include the courtesanstreet, the Lakshmi Narasimhamonolith, Vithala Temple and stonehuts dedicated to women fighters.

Best eating joints?Sagar Hotel in Hampi Bazaar for idli,dosa and gunta ponganalu, AllTribes Coffee Shop for conversationand coffee. For variety, head toHippy Island (where most foreignersstay in Hampi). The place offersmany options, including GoanCorner for fish curry. Don’t expectanything spectacular in terms offood, though. The place offers morefood for the soul than the stomach.

SSHHWWEETTAA TTAANNEEJJAA is a graphic novelist and author whose latest novel, The Skull Rosary, hasbeen critically acclaimed in India and abroad. She is the quintessential easy traveller and also aformer journalist. She picks five books that everyone can read on any journey.

� Nine Lives byWilliam DalrympleThese nine storiesare well-researchedand mesmerising. Itravelled 500 km to

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FEBRUARY 2014 101

TRAVEL TALKIES

A Tale Of LoveAnd Time Valentine’s month is here andwhat better way to celebratethe day of love than with amovie which has a good dose ofromance? Releasing on February14, Winter’s Tale is a moviebased on a romantic fantasy novel of the same name byMark Helprin. Starring Colin Farrell, Jessica BrownFindlay and Russell Crowe in lead roles, it is set in the19th century where a thief named Perter Lake (Farrell)falls in love with an ill woman (Findlay). Crowe playsPearly Soames, Lake’s former boss and a major factor inkeeping his life complicated. The interesting twist to theplot comes when Lake appears in present-day Manhattanand, having lost his memory, befriends Virginia whohelps him explore his past. What happened in all thistime? How come he is still alive? Is it a rebirth with thesame face? We have to wait and watch. The film isdirected by debutant Akiva Goldsman, who is known forhis Academy Award-winning screenwriting for ABeautiful Mind.

The Road Much Travelled?Most of us have seen movies about a female victim falling inlove with her male oppressor. All we can hope is that ImtiazAli doesn’t regurgitate this cliché in his upcoming flick,Highway. Co-produced by Sajid Nadiawala, the film is duefor release on February 21 and stars Randeep Hooda andAlia Bhatt in lead roles. The movie is based on the story of alively, urban girl and daughter of a big-time industrialist whogets abducted while travelling on the highway with herfiancé (to whom she was to get married in the next fourdays). Her outlook on life tends to change while in captivitywith the rustic criminals. She gets drawn away from her lifeof jewellery, clothes and marriage. The gang doesn’t want totake the risk of asking for a ransom as the girl’s father hascontacts and they could get into trouble. But the leaderremains firm in his resolve and doesn’t want to let go of thegirl. Eventually, she starts to fall in love with him. But willthis journey really change her? We have to wait for the film.

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Circumnavigate

Revisiting Scenic & Vibrant BaliAnimals Steal The Show In Hamilton, Canada

T H E W O R L D , F R O M T H E I N D I A N E Y E

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104 FEBRUARY 2014

CircumnavigateBEACH TOWN

Idyll In BaliA short vacation in Indonesia’s scenic beach town can show you itsvolcano, handicrafts, fire dances and Hindu influences.Words ADITYA GUPTA

Heading to Bali, a morningflight from New Delhideposited us at Singapore’sChangi Airport, where wespent a few hours, enjoyingthe premium services of

Singapore Airlines. We reached Bali after duskand took a prepaid taxi to our hotel. On the 20-minute ride, Bali seemed a clean, friendly andsimple place, as we had expected.

It appeared to have the highest density ofluxury hotels in the world and, given my interestin design and architecture, my plan was to usethree hotels over four nights! We started off withthe Conrad (Hilton Group), where our ocean-front room provided great views and a fragrantbreeze. After a relaxed breakfast, we booked acar to visit the handicrafts and sculpture village,Ubud, and the Kintamani volcano.

We basically handed ourselves over to thefriendly cabbie and asked him to show usaround different places en route to the volcano,which was a two-hour drive away. We went byan interesting monument, and visited a batikfactory and a jewellery factory. Lunch was at abeautiful restaurant with a raised platform-likefeel amid paddy fields.Then we stopped atsome stores/yards selling stone sculptures andwere really impressed by their beauty andreasonable pricing.

Bali has a heavy Hindu influence, thoughIndonesia is a predominantly Muslim country.The themes of sculptures are usually centredaround Hindu goddesses, Ganesha, and Buddha.It was an interesting day and quite a scenic driveto the volcano, which we reached around sunset.

Kintamani presented a beautiful spectacle atdusk. Our experience was a little compromisedbecause of over-enthusiastic street vendors try-ing to sell us stuff and we left the viewpoint fair-ly quickly because of this, going down to the

lakeside to view the volcano from across thewater. It was a pretty setting, the place quietand idyllic.

On the return journey, we stopped by a localoutlet for Balinese coffee and then napped inthe car until we got back to the lively JimbaranBay. We asked the cabbie to take us to an inter-esting place for dinner and his choice was a rowof about 25 restaurants right on the beach, allserving seafood with nearly identical menus andstyling. All of them were doing decent business!We enjoyed dinner at a secluded table with can-dles and the music of the ocean. The seafoodwas as fresh as it can get because one couldselect the items from bins. Most of it was thengrilled and served hot on a little contraptionwith charcoal burning underneath which keptthe food warm and well-smoked for flavour.

(Clockwise from above)The wooden sculpturesof Buddha made in Baliare must-takeawaysfrom the place; Bali’samazing sea beachesswarm with surfers;the beautiful landscapearound the Pura UlunDanu Temple

The next morning, I woke early to welcomethe sun and it was really nice to walk along theocean in the early hours. A cloudy sky compro-mised the sunrise experience but it still madefor some great pictures and fresh air. Afterbreakfast, we moved to the beautiful St. RegisHotel. We stepped out briefly in the afternoonto visit some nearby shops and kept theevening for the hotel which had a fire danceceremony at sunset. We spent the rest of theevening at the swimming pool, located at theocean front. The bar along the pool comple-

mented our swim with some interesting cock-tails, which we sipped sitting on stone furniturebuilt inside the water.

The Kayuputi restaurant of the St. Regis,located alongside the pool, had possibly themost beautiful setting for a restaurant. Thelocale was complemented by an outstandingculinary experience. We sat on the beach untilnearly midnight, feeling the magic of the oceanand the caress of the breeze.

Our next hotel was the über-swish BulgariResort. The only other hotel of the designerbrand is in Milan. The Bali property is locatedatop a cliff alongside the ocean with uninter-rupted 180-degree views of the sea from mostof the villas. A traction trolley takes guestsdown nearly 200 metres to the beach, wherethere is a pleasant bar and an interesting menu.The beach is completely secluded as it is inac-cessible except from the Bulgari resort. After

relaxing in our villa for a while, we went downto the beach and enjoyed a lunch of tandoorichicken and cocktails.

In the evening we had an interesting excur-sion to the Ulluvatu Temple as well as a firedance performance—an adaptation of theRamayana. The temple, too, has a cliff-sidelocation with stunning views of the ocean andcliff. There are monkeys as well and guideswere offering their services to protect visitorsfrom them. For dinner, we went to the mes-merising Karma-Kandara Resort—yet another

outstanding propertyin Bali. The restaurantis by the ocean andthe approach is also bytrolley. We savouredIndonesian prepara-tions along with cool-ing drinks in thisshack-style eatery,which was like a sea-side open-air loungewith exceptional food,service and music.

Back at the Bulgari,we visited its famousItalian restaurant and,since dinner wasalready over for us,enjoyed sometiramisu. The resortfelt cosy and inviting,

with the evening lighting, and we were in nomood to go back to our villa. So we hit the baron the cliff-side with loungers placed for cus-tomers to look out over the cliff to the endlessocean. It was a perfect location for our lastnight in Bali.

The resort is west-facing so there was nomotivation to get up early in the morning. Welingered over a grand breakfast in the Asianrestaurant where our table was at the cliff-edge.Afterwards, we walked on the beach for anhour in complete solitude with just the wind,sand, and some shells for company.

As we left, we felt our visit should havebeen a few days longer. On the way to the air-port, we stopped by one of the sculpture show-rooms and I selected a few outstanding piecesto be shipped to India later. They would surelybe a pleasant reminder of our short but sweetvacation in Bali.

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(Clockwise from top left)Ubud's Monkey Forest

Sanctuary is known for itsrustic pathways and

ancient bridges; Barong isthe traditional Balinese

dance which is taught toyoungsters too; the Hindu

families in Bali come totake a dip in the sacred

springs of Tirta Empul

Reach BaliFrom New Delhi, themost convenient flight totake is the one by JetAirways via Singaporewhich departs at 10.30pm and reaches Bali at10.40 am the next day.From Mumbai, SingaporeAirlines has a flight viaSingapore which departsat 12.05 am and reachesBali at 12.05 pm thenext day.From Kolkata, SingaporeAirlines has a flight viaSingapore which departsat 9.55 pm and reachesat 9.35 am the next day.

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CircumnavigateWILD FRIENDS

The sign reads ‘Trespasserswill be eaten.’ We pay heedand yet do not—we enterthis ‘forbidden’ territorysmugly seated in a rentedCamry, windows rolled up.

We are now caged creatures taking a tour ofthe huge sprawl in which the lords of the wildroam about without a care, casting scornfulglances at us. Those nimble of foot coax,cajole and tease us as they plant themselvesbang in front of our slow-moving automobile,challenging us to rev past them. The moredaring ones press their noses and beaksagainst the windows of our vehicle, inviting usto a conversation with them.

The simian species hop on to the fendersand roofs of practically every passing car, sizingup each on its merit as their perch. There areothers that strongly believe in unity and appearin twos and threes to waylay us in a mockambush. And, yes, not to forget the contentedsouls. Well, at least for the moment, they seem

tTHROUGH AGLASS,

CHARMINGLYAt the African Lion Safari in

Hamilton, Canada, your vehicle’swindows stay rolled up but on the other

side are friendly and curious creatures. Words & Photography CHITRA RAMASWAMY

FEBRUARY 2014 109

(Clockwise from extremeleft) Scenes such as anelephant trying its trunk atbasketball are notuncommon; a giraffe lookson; interesting rides attracttourists of all age groups;leopards spot the actionT

to be so—throwing disdainful looks towards us and wondering what aliens we are. Theking of the jungle, the most majestic of themall, is simply happy to watch the world go by as he luxuriates in the choicest corner of the vast expanse, having partaken of a sumptu-ous breakfast.

We are at the African Lion Safari in Flamb-orough, Hamilton—62 miles west of Toronto.The park, a privately owned and operatedproperty, was founded in 1969 by GordonDebenhan “Don” Dailley, a retired CanadianArmy colonel. The lure of seeing hundreds of animals from around the world, roamingfreely in a large contained area encompassingseven game reserves over 300 hectares is alltoo irresistible.

The park’s safari bus and a handful of cars,including ours, venture on a slow drive along anine-km trail. Initially, we spot a few exoticbirds that cross the vehicle’s path every nowand then, giving us amused looks and posingpatiently as we click away through the window

glass. A couple of cheetahs are the first animalswe spot. It is obvious they are not interested inus; in fact, they seem stubborn about nothumouring us shutterbugs. They are engagedin their own private play, chasing each other inslow motion, but making sure all the while notto get close to us.

Barely do we bid goodbye to the spoilsportcheetahs, we come upon a dozen or more mon-keys, making up in ample measure for theirkilljoy forest brethren. They are all over theparade of vehicles—frisking and chattering,hopping from one vehicle to the other, perch-ing on bumpers and rearview mirrors, delight-ing in the audience they have. We satisfy our-selves, capturing the simian antics through ourlenses, though again through the glass.

Having exchanged plenty of greetings withthe distant descendants of our ancestors, wemove on to the Simba Lion Country where apair of lions is enjoying a lazy morning, per-haps after a heavy breakfast. The lords of thejungle, a few hundred metres away from us,

110 FEBRUARY 2014

maintain their distance and decorum, but dooblige us with brief poses for a shoot.

The more exciting part of our trail bringsus to the Eurasian reserve in which we get tosee a host of animals, including the yak, mou-flon, several species of deer, the TurkmenianMarkhor, nilgai, Himalayan tahr and the emu.It is the emus that captivate us with theirhuge, marble-like eyes and charm. They sure-ly want to engage in a friendly banter with usand weave their way through the line of cars,pressing their beaks against our windows andbeckoning us to chat with them. Some of usshutterbugs exploit their friendliness to thefullest as they oblige with poses. Even as weare clicking away at the emus, the red-neckedwallabies and red kangaroos on the reserve’speriphery cast furtive glances at us frombehind rocks and trees, but fight shy of our digital devices and remain a safe distance away.

Zebras, ostriches, giraffes, eland, white rhi-nos, llamas, exotic species of cranes, geese and

storks stalk us as we pass through the NairobiSanctuary, the Rocky Ridge Veldt and theNorth America Reserve. The drive takes thebetter part of an hour-and-a-half as we stop atseveral places to get up close to these animalsand birds, and sometimes to give way to themas they cross our tracks.

Having sated ourselves with seeing thewild, we are now ready for the ritual parade ofthe pachyderms to their swimming pool. Ahuge crowd is already waiting to witness thissplendorous spectacle of the Asiatic jumbosindulging in aqueous play. We follow this upwith the avian show and elephant acrobatics,all set to clockwork precision.

In Parrot Paradise, we are treated to anincredible display of cerebral abilities, ‘walk-ing’ and ‘cycling’ on tightropes by the birds,most of them with flashy plumage in multi-coloured hues. The Birds of Prey FlyingDemo is just as exhilarating as we witnessavian acrobatics. The falcons, eagles, hawks,vultures and owls soar, swoop down on unsus-

p

Reach HamiltonTo get to Hamilton, onemust reach Toronto, 100 km away.From New Delhi, BritishAirways has a flight viaLondon which departs at11.10 am and reachesToronto at 7.20 pm thenext day.From Mumbai, UnitedAirlines has a flight viaNewark which departs at11.40 pm and reaches at8.47 am the next day.Cabs can be hired fromthe airport to Hamilton.

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FEBRUARY 2014 111

pecting prey, grab their catch and blithelyglide, showing off their several talents all atonce. The walking area leading to the showarenas displays a medley of birds, many ofthem rare and endangered.

It is back to the elephants once more. Theyare at their all-time best—working hard at log-ging, lofting a ball into the basket or kicking asoccer ball without raising dust. They even doa couple of somersaults, probably to belie theirweight, and show off with a flourish theirpainting skills, perhaps putting Picasso, VanGogh and their likes to shame!

Before we embark on the next conductedtour of the Safari, which is easily a full day’souting, we take a lunch break at one of theseveral dining outlets in its precincts. We alsobrowse around some of its shopping outlets.The shops, we observe, are crowd-pullers inthe Park that is open from the beginning ofMay to mid-October every year.

Following the break, we resume our tour ofthe Safari, hopping onto the Nature Boy

Scenic Rail for a 15-minute ride that is a richlearning experience. We are at once treated tonative wildlife and are especially thrilled atseeing the Bactrian camels and reindeer, a herdof which waylays us and plants itself bang onthe rail tracks.

We wind up our visit to the Safari with acruise aboard the African Queen. It is remark-ably refreshing, with the late summer breezecaressing our faces. A tour guide on boardpoints to several animal and bird species thatinclude the ring-tailed lemurs, spider mon-keys, white-handed gibbon, marabou stork andcrested macaques.

Even as we bid adieu to the creatures ofthe forest, there are several visitors having ablast in the park precincts that offer a plethoraof activities. There are hordes of childrengoing wild in the Misumu Bay Wet Play area,splashing around in the water. Several kids andtheir parents explore the animal world at PetsCorner and still others interact with the ele-phants and take rides on them.

(Clockwise from top left)The Lion Safari has more toit than just the big cats.Animals of all kinds,including reindeer, giraffes,ostriches and rhinos areseen in plenty at the place

Departure

{FEBRUARY 1989}TIMELESS THREADS

Living up to its name as the only cultural magazine inIndia, Discover India highlighted how every creativeaspect of a country defines its people and traditions.Be it in our daily life or our customs during festivals,

our vibrant clothing and its associated work aredistinctive and widely acclaimed.

This, really, is India.

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