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Eduved International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research ISSN 2348-6775 (Online) 2349-5480 (Print) 1 Vol. 01 Issue 07 Oct. 2014 DIGITALIZATION OF MADHUBANI DESIGNS FOR TRANSFERRING ON APPARELS USING SCREEN PRINTING TECHNIQUE Ekta Sharma*, Manpreet Kalsy** and Dr. Susan Paul*** *Assistant Professor, ** Student, ***Visiting Professor Textiles and Apparel Designing Ethelind School of Home Science Sam Higginbottom Institute of Agriculture, Technology and Sciences (Formerly Allahabad Agriculture Institute) (Deemed to-be-University), Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh ABSTRACT India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and pattern of art, which is generally known as folk art. Perhaps the best-known genre of Indian folk paintings is the Mithila (also called Madhubani) paintings from the Mithila region of Bihar state. Traditionally Madhubani paintings were done by hand which is tedious, time consuming and laborious process. But in due course of time with easy availability of different styles of printing, these paintings can be brought down on cloth by using various printing techniques. Hence in the present study an attempt was made to develop designs inspired from Madhubani paintings of Bihar for ladies kurtis, bedspreads and sarees. Total twenty designs, ten each for ladies kurtis and sarees were developed manually and these designs were subjected to visual evaluation by a panel of thirty judges for selection of two best designs from each category in order to apply these on various articles. Articles were printed using screen printing method. The total cost of printing ladies kurtis ranged between Rs. 456.6 to 469.1 where as for sarees Rs. 1476.27 to 834.83 depending on the screens involved and the colours used for printing of articles. The prepared articles were finally subjected to visual evaluation by fifty entrepreneurs in order to assess their acceptability. All the articles were highly appreciated by the entrepreneurs and they were also willing to accept these designs. Key words: Acceptability, CAD technology, Madhubani, Screen Printing, Visual evaluation INTRODUCTION Textile designing has been an ancient art and perhaps the most ancient craft of India. Textile designing is the most demanding and emerging field as it is full of scope and creativity but many individuals become quite lost when confronted with the task of finding "inspiration". An inspiration can come from any stimulus that starts the creative process. Sources of inspiration are literally everywhere, but more importantly; it is the designer's artistic sensibility and interpretive style that brings creative design into being virtually live. Any objects or things we see in our daily routine are possible design sources. These may include nature, temples, famous monuments, furniture, various kinds of toys, folk arts and crafts such as wall paintings, floor paintings, sculptures, carvings etc. They can also be created through adaptation of a specific design base and by fusion of different arts. The rich motifs and designs of the

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DIGITALIZATION OF MADHUBANI DESIGNS FOR TRANSFERRING ON APPARELS USING SCREEN PRINTING TECHNIQUE

Ekta Sharma*, Manpreet Kalsy** and Dr. Susan Paul***

*Assistant Professor, ** Student, ***Visiting Professor

Textiles and Apparel Designing

Ethelind School of Home Science Sam Higginbottom Institute of Agriculture, Technology and Sciences

(Formerly Allahabad Agriculture Institute) (Deemed –to-be-University), Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh

ABSTRACT

India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and pattern of art, which is generally known as folk art. Perhaps the best-known genre of Indian folk paintings is the Mithila (also called Madhubani) paintings from the Mithila region of Bihar state. Traditionally Madhubani paintings were done by hand which is tedious, time consuming and laborious process. But in due course of time with easy availability of different styles of printing, these paintings can be brought down on cloth by using various printing techniques. Hence in the present study an attempt was made to develop designs inspired from Madhubani paintings of Bihar for ladies kurtis, bedspreads and sarees.

Total twenty designs, ten each for ladies kurtis and sarees were developed manually and these designs were subjected to visual evaluation by a panel of thirty judges for selection of two best designs from each category in order to apply these on various articles. Articles were printed using screen printing method. The total cost of printing ladies kurtis ranged between Rs. 456.6 to 469.1 where as for sarees Rs. 1476.27 to 834.83 depending on the screens involved and the colours used for printing of articles. The prepared articles were finally subjected to visual evaluation by fifty entrepreneurs in order to assess their acceptability. All the articles were highly appreciated by the entrepreneurs and they were also willing to accept these designs.

Key words: Acceptability, CAD technology, Madhubani, Screen Printing, Visual evaluation

INTRODUCTION

Textile designing has been an ancient art and perhaps the most ancient craft of India. Textile designing is

the most demanding and emerging field as it is full of scope and creativity but many individuals become

quite lost when confronted with the task of finding "inspiration". An inspiration can come from any

stimulus that starts the creative process. Sources of inspiration are literally everywhere, but more

importantly; it is the designer's artistic sensibility and interpretive style that brings creative design into

being virtually live. Any objects or things we see in our daily routine are possible design sources. These

may include nature, temples, famous monuments, furniture, various kinds of toys, folk arts and crafts

such as wall paintings, floor paintings, sculptures, carvings etc. They can also be created through

adaptation of a specific design base and by fusion of different arts. The rich motifs and designs of the

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various arts and crafts can be readily adapted into contemporary forms in an attempt to make them

suitable to incorporate them into textile products. These sources of inspiration play a powerful role in

the beginning of the design process and in research and strategic collection planning. They also play an

essential role in the communication of design ideas, both among designers, and between designers and

managers and buyers. India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional

vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and pattern of

art, which is known as folk art. The folk and tribal arts of India are very ethnic and simple, and yet

colorful and vibrant enough to speak volumes about the rich heritage. Folk art in India apparently has a

great potential in the international market because of its traditional aesthetic sensibility and

authenticity. Perhaps the best-known genre of Indian folk paintings is the Mithila (also called

Madhubani) paintings from the Mithila region of Bihar state. The Madhubani in literal translation means

‘Forest of Honey’ (Madhu-honey, Bans-forest or woods) These paintings are basically religious in nature.

The paintings are done by women predominantly at home, in anointed areas like the prayer room. Hindu

mythology is the main theme. The main figures in Madhubani paintings are adopted from nature and

mythology.

Madhubani paintings, although one of the most intricate art, still governs the entire fashion market.

Even today, when the dressing styles and trends are changing continuously, the beauty and charisma of

Madhubani art still captures the heart of people. Traditionally these paintings were done by hand which

is tedious, time consuming and laborious process. But in due course of time with technological

advancement, these designs directly can be created with the help of various softwares like corel draw,

photoshop etc. The easy availability of different styles of printing, the prepared motifs and designs can

be brought down on the cloth by using various printing techniques. Screen printing is one of the easiest

printing techniques. In the present study the investigator tried to produce Madhubani designs on various

articles by using screen printing technique.

METHODOLOGY

Collection of Madhubani Designs and Design development

The Madhubani motifs were collected through literature survey, wall hangings, books, magazines and

internet and total twenty designs, ten each for ladies kurties and ten for sarees were developed by

arranging motifs in different way with CAD technology using two softwares ie. Corel draw and Adobe

Photoshop.

Digitizing the motifs using Corel draw: The process of digitizing the motifs involved three stages:

Design input,

Design processing and

Design printing.

The first stage is the input of design i.e. either creation of motifs or copying it by coloured scanner. On

opening the corel-draw software the designer has two options either to create a new file or to open an

existing one. For development of motif, the entire design can be imported in to the new blank document

or by dragging the picture from its location to the task bar icon of corel draw and dropped on to the new

blank document. While opening the new document, the name of file, height, width, size of paper,

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primary colour mode, and resolution of the designs have been specified. Width and height of the design

were required in specific unit of measurement such as inches, millimeter etc. Soon after giving command

the CDR sheet with given specification is ready for design creation or editing. Editing of design includes

modification of motifs, colour combinations by creating specific colour separations for printing. This

could be done until one would not be satisfied with the final design. With the help of B-spline tool the

outline of motif have been drawn. B -spline tool used to draw curved lines by setting control points that

shaped the curve without breaking in to segments. Required shaping was done by the shape tool. Pen

tool, free hand tool and outline pen tool were also used frequently. For final shaping and arrangement

many tools from property bar were also used. After completing the motif, colours were filled with fill

tool and colour eye dropper tool. Then the prepared motifs were arranged in the various apparels and

handicraft items in desired arrangements. Once the design is ready, then designer has an option to take

the simulation of the design produced or save the same as CDR or JPEG bitmaps file. For changing the

corel draw file format (CDR) in to JPEG Bitmaps ready files were exported by changing the format to the

preferred location. JPEG Bitmaps format was used to get the print out of the designs.

Fig. 1 Process flow of digitizing the motifs using CAD software - Corel draw x5

Visual evaluation of the developed designs

All the developed designs were subjected to visual evaluation for selection of two best designs in each

category i.e. ladies Kurtis and sarees by a panel of thirty judges. All designs were ranked according to

their preferences obtained. The attributes assigned for evaluation of designs were colour combinations,

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appropriateness of designs, arrangement of motifs and over all appearance of the design and five point

rating scale developed by Premlata (1991) was used for the evaluation of the developed designs. 1, 2, 3,

4 and 5 scores were assigned to those designs which attained poor, fair, good, very good and excellent

respectively.

Preparation of fabric

Cut length of cotton fabric was used for ladies kurties and plain sarees were purchased. Cotton fabric was desized by hot soapy solution for ten minutes to remove the greasy matter so that the fabric may properly absorb the dye and then rinsed and dried in shade.

Printing of Articles

Sarees and Kurtis were printed using PVC colours. Various screens were prepared for each colour. The recipe used for printing of articles is as follows:

PVC colour = 100 parts

PVC reducer = 10 parts

Medium ( Fixer) = 10 parts

Total = 120 parts

Printing paste was prepared by taking PVC colour in a beaker, along with PVC reducer. A medium was then added in this paste to avoid drying of printing paste. It also acts as a fixer. The sari was spread on the printing table and screen was placed on the desired area of the sari where the design is required. The paste was poured on the screen and spread towards the

printer with the help of squeezee by applying the pressure downward at an angle of 40-65. The squeeze was then taken to the opposite side in the same manner. Similar procedure was used to print ladies kurti. After printing, the printed sarees and ladies kurtis were dried in shade and steamed in order to fix the colour.

Cost determination and product evaluation

The cost of all the printed products was calculated separately, the cost was calculated on the basis of money spent for raw materials, screens and other essential items. The cost of designing was not added but abour charges used for preparation of screens and printing of articles were added in the total cost of the final products. The cost of printing paste was calculated by measuring the amount of ingredients for printing one ladies kurti and one sari and left over paste was considered as waste and its cost was not reduced from the cost of printing paste. Each printed article was shown to same panel of judges to assess their acceptability. The attributes of judgment were colour combination, neatness, cost and overall appearance. Five point rating developed by Premlata (1991) scale was used for the evaluation of the products.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

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Visual evaluation: All the developed designs (Plates 1-8) were visually evaluated and results are shown in Fig 2 and 3. It was found that among the designs developed for ladies kurties, design number 5 got the maximum score (4.40) and ranked first followed by the design number 10 (4.33) while in case of sarees design number 7 got the maximum score (4.45) due to the arrangement of motifs and colour combinations and ranked first and design number 6 (4.11) scored second rank. Hence these designs were applied on articles using screen-printing technique.

Developed Designs

Fig. 2 Preference score for designs developed for ladies Kurtis

Developed Designs

Fig. 3 Preference score for designs developed for ladies Sarees

Cost of printed products:

The cost of printing two ladies kurtis and two sarees was calculated separately and the results are

reported in Table 1 and 2. It was observed form the table 1 that the cost of kurti I was slightly higher (Rs.

469.10) than the cost of kurti II ie. Rs.456.60 due to the use of expensive fabric. In case of sarees, the

cost of sari I (Rs. 2834.83) was higher than the cost of sari II (Rs. 1476.27). This was due to the

involvement of eight screens and due to the consumption of more colours. (Table 2)

3.61 3.57 3.583.35

4.4

3.46

4.3

3.11

3.934.33

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Sco

res

3.65 3.77 3.763.93

3.35

4.114.45

3.94

3.52

4.06

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Sco

res

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Table 1: Cost of printed kurties

Items Kurti-I Kurti-II

Consumption Rate

(Rs.)

Value

(Rs.)

Consumption Rate (Rs.) Value

(Rs.)

Cut length of cotton

fabric

2 m 45/- m 90/- 2 m 40/-m 80/-

Stitching charges 1 45/-

kurti

45/- 1 45/- 45/-

Screen cost 1 67.37/

screen

67.37/- 1 67.37/-

screen

67.37/-

Cost of raw materials

used

- - 92.91/- - - 92.91/-

Colours 100 gm. 600/-kg. 60/- 100 gm 600/- kg 60/-

Actual cost - - 455.28/- - - 445.28/-

25% profit - - 113.82/- - - 111.32/-

Sale price - - 469.1 - - 456.6/-

Table 2: Cost for Printing Sarees

Items Sari-I Sari-II

Consumption Rate

(Rs.)

Value (Rs.) Consumption Rate

(Rs.)

Value (Rs.)

Plain saree 1 336/- 336/- 1 336/- 336/-

Screen cost 8 67.37/- 538.96/- 3 67.37/- 202.11/-

Cost of raw

materials

- - 92.91/- - - 92.91/-

Colours 8 colours

(250gm. Per

colour)

600 kg. 1200/- 3 colour 250 gm.

Per colour

600 kg. 450/-

Actual cost - - 2667.87/- - - 1581.02/-

25% profit - - 666.96/- - - 395.25

Sale price - - 2834.83/- - 1476.27/-

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Acceptability of developed products:

The prepared printed articles (Plate 9-10) were subjected for visual evaluation to assess the acceptability

of the products and the results are given in Table 3.

Table 3 Acceptability level of the products

Articles Neatness Clarity

of

design

Suitability of

design

Cost Overall

appearance

Average

Ladies

Kurtis

Article-I 4.5 5 5 4.5 5 4.8

Article-II 4 4.5 4 4.5 4 4.2

Sarees Article-I 5 5 5 4.5 5 4.9

Article-II 4.5 4.5 5 5 4.5 4.7

It is clear from the Table that among the printed Kurtis, the article I was given first preference (score 4.8)

irrespective of higher cost and article II ranked second with the score of 4.2. Among the printed sarees,

similar results were obtained. Article I was most preferred than article II because of its colour

combination and neatness in design. Further despite of higher cost it was given first preference. Thus it

can be concluded that all the products were accepted and highly appreciated.

CONCLUSION

In India most of the states have their own traditional fabrics and designs distinctive of that area.

Madhubani paintings from the Mithila region of Bihar state capture the heart of people. However the

technique involved in producing Madhubani design is very much time and energy consuming.

The present study was an initial step in direction of creating Madhubani Designs using CAD

technology and applying prepared designs on the apparels using screen-printings technique. Screen-

printing is a fast method of producing designs, dose not required expensive equipment, save time and

energy and is not laborious. Since the procedure is very simple and easy to execute, a rural women can

easily adopt it as a mode of income generation and enhance her quality of life. The study may proved to

be beneficial for those women who want to start an enterprises as they can follow up these guidelines

for designing, preparation of screens and printing procedure.

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REFERENCES

Anand, M.R. 1984. Madhubani Painting. Bombay. Printwell 5-49.

Craven, R.C. 1997. Indian Art : A Concise History 8th ed. London. Thames and Hudson. 15-35.

Evans, H.M. and Dumesnil. C.D. 1982. An invitation to design. 2nd ed. London. 30-65.

Ghia, A.M. and Pandit, M . 1983. A study of different hand printing methods done on sarees in Gujarat, Master’s Thesis. The Maharaja Sayajirao Unviersity, Baroda, India.

DEVELOPED DESIGNS

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PREPARED ARTICLES