Diagnostic Study Report on Barpalli Weaving Cluster

7/22/2019 Diagnostic Study Report on Barpalli Weaving Cluster

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BARPALLI IKAT WEAVING CLUSTER

DIAGNOSTIC STUDY


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Contents

S.No.

Item Page No .s

1. Global scenario of handlooms 1- 2

2. Handlooms in India 2

3. Position of Orissa in handlooms 3-4

4. Barpalli Ikat Weaving Cluster 4 5

5. Evolution of the cluster 5 7

6. Structure of the cluster 7 107. Production Process 10 14

8. Value Chain Analysis 14 15

9. Analysis of business operations including creditneed analysis for the cluster

16 20

10. Support Institutions 20 24

11. Social capital of the cluster 25 2912. Infrastructure Analysis 30

13. Current Cluster Map Annexure 3


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H

1. Global Scenario of Handlooms

andlooms have remained not only one of the important options of livelihoods but have also

been the saviours of the various traditional skills that have been inherited by the weavers

over generations. The unique and high-skill oriented processes for creating the exquisite

fabrics have helped the handloom tradition survive the onslaught of automated production

systems. It is estimated that today there are about 4.60 million handlooms in the world out

of which about 3.9 million are in India1. The total handloom production in India was about

5493 million square metres during 2003 04. While the major producers are India followed

by Bangladesh, Pakistan and Nepal, the main importers of textiles & clothing were theUSA, UK, France and Italy.

One of the unique processes in handloom weaving i s the Ikat style of weaving. Ikat is a

tie-dye process on either the warp2

or weft or both according to the designs needs and

then weaving the yarns to achieve the design. When only warp or weft is tie and dyed, it is

called Single Ikat, whereas when both the warp and weft are tie-dyed, it is called a

Double Ikat. Ikats have been woven in cultures all over the world. In the 19th century, the

Silk Road desert oases of Bukhara and Samarkand (in what is now Uzbekistan in Central

Asia) were famous for their fine silk ikats. Today Ikat is still common in Central and South

America especially in Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador, Guatemala and Mexico. Similarly India,

Japan and several South-East Asia countries have cultures with long histories of Ikat

production. There are known links between Ikat production in India and trade of Ikat to

South-East Asia. Patola cloth, a double ikat from Gujarat, used to be exported to Indonesia

for the use of the royal families. The patterns in the Patola Ikats are strikingly simi lar to the

double ikats produced in Bali, Indonesia.

Whether Ikat technique developed in India or any one country alone and then spread from

th h th it i lt l l d i l t i i t l l k A


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H

the printed fabrics of Java or Lombok and turn out to be slightly more expensive. A skilful

weaver of Bali is able to weave not more than two meters a day. In comparison to this an

Ikat weaver of Orissa is not able to weave more than a metre per day and in case of

complicated designs such as the Geet Govind, this becomes even lesser.

2. Handloom s in India

andlooms play a significant role in the Indian economy owing to their rural employment

potential3, next only to agriculture, and also for their contribution to exports 4 from the

country. Since 1960 and up to 95, the share of handloom production in the total textile

production remained more or less constant at about 23%. However after 1995, it started

declining and is pegged at 13% during 2004 - 055. The tradition of handlooms is so strong

that the entire country is dotted with places famous for some or the other handloom

product.

If specifically the centres of ikat are to be considered then there are only three states that

can boast of this unique tradition Gujarat, Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. In Gujarat it is

only the Patan area, which produces the Patola sari, a wedding sari for the women of

Kathiawar region. In Andhra Pradesh the main areas producing Ikats are the Chirala area

and the Nalgonda district (famous for Pochampalli saris). It is only Orissa, which has the

tradition of Ikat across almost the entire state, mainly centred in Bolangir Sonepur

Bargarh Sambalpur districts in the Western parts, Cuttack district in the eastern part and

the Kalahandi Sundergarh districts in the southern parts of the state.

The Ikats of Orissa stand apart from the rest other ikat traditions due to the uniquedesign range that they possess, derived from nature and religious themes. Thus while Ikats

of Orissa have a wide range of flowers, trellis patterns, animals, gods and goddesses and

images from day to day life as their motifs most other ikat patterns have either geometric


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H3. Posi t ion of Orissa in handloom s

andlooms are a key element of the Orissas economy. The Handloom Census of 1987 -88

indicated Orissa's population of handloom weavers at 415,000. Of this, almost 30% were

members of the poorer and relatively disadvantaged Scheduled Castes (SC). Amongst the

population of weavers almost 40% worked on a full -time basis as weavers, and the industry

provided direct employment to 244,000 persons. However, Handlooms census (1995-96)

shows that Orissa's handloom sector generated employment for 208,000 persons6.

Further, a more recent survey undertaken by the Textiles Committee suggests a total

population of just under 100,000 handloom weavers 7. About 55% of these weavers were

found to be from Orissa's western region. About 85% of the weaver households had only a

single loom, while less than 1% had more than four looms. The bulk of weaver households

came from the other backward castes (76.4% of all weaver households) and scheduled

castes (17.5% of all weaver households) communities providing ample evidence of a

correlation between weaving and the low incomes and asset base of weaver households.

The weaver population of Orissa can be categorised in to the following typologies:

Type I (Entrepreneur weavers): buy raw material on their own, work on their own

designs and then market their products through a variety of local channels, traders etc.

Type II(Labourer weavers) - Weavers linked to master weavers: who receive the raw

material and design brief from the master weaver and pass on the final product to them

and receive their weaving wages in return

Type III - Cooperative fold weavers : Weavers linked to the primary cooperative

societies which procure raw material, pass it on to the attached weavers, pay them

wages and then market the final products on their own/ through apex cooperative

society (BOYANIKA).


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department of textiles and handlooms has largely been cooperatives which have been

created, supported and administered by their officials.

Orissas handloom base is made of two distinct types of products, the low quality plain

fabrics that are used for towels, dhotis and plain saris (often referred to as 'Janata' or

people's cloth) and the other of high quality, design intensive tie and dye 'Ikat' and 'Bomkai'

fabrics. While the first category of low quality low skill handloom production has been

facing the stiff competition from power looms at the price front, the other category of high

skill- high quality fabrics, which have bought fame for the state, have not been able to

reach out to the desired markets in a sustained manner.

Orissa is especially famous for its Ikat tradition which as mentioned earlier, is a state wide

phenomenon. These are produced in both cotton and in silk. The main products are saris

(which accounted for 71% of total handloom production8), but increasingly weavers are

producing ladies dress material, scarves, bed covers and other home furnishing fabrics.

Given the nature of the designs and the tie and dye process, i kat fabrics cannot be easily

replicated by power looms. However, the artisanal skills involved in producing tie and dye

ikat fabrics, which were unique to Orissa, have been copied, albeit at a lower quality, inbordering states such as Andhra Pradesh. Yet it is usually acknowledged that the art of ikat

originated from Orissa. Orissa Ikat saris have high demand across the country, especially

for celebratory functions.

4. Barpal i Ikat Weaving Cluster

he Ikat Handloom Cluster of Barpalli is located in the western part of Orissa and comprisesof three villages of Barpalli and one village of Bijepur block of Bargarh district. As shown in

the map at Annexure 3, the cluster consists of about 215 looms in Barpalli town, 288 looms

in Bandhpali village, 180 looms in Baghbadi village of Barpalli Block; and about 192 looms


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B

Dress material (of 2/60s to 2/100s) about 15%

Tussar silk/Bafta (cotton + tussar) saris about 5%

Further details of these product ranges can be seen at annexure 4.

In order to assess the relative position of Barpalli

cluster vis--vis another cluster of similar nature, a

benchmarking of Barpalli cluster with Sonepur

cluster of Orissa has been attempted and is

shown at Annexure 5.

It would be worthwhile to mention here thatBarpalli cluster has about 2150 independent

weavers, i.e. the type I weavers. It is also

important to note that the weavers of even the

Costa community, who were earlier into tussar weaving in the cluster, have moved on to

cotton weaving, though of slightly coarser count.

5. Evolut io n of the Cluster

arpalli village was established by the royal Chauhan family of Sambalpur during the last

part of 17th century. The growth of weaving activity in the area is ascribed to the advent of

the Bhulia Meher community in around 1765 AD from Sonepur. Bhulia Mehers are said

to have been original inhabitants of Rajasthan and Delhi from where they moved to

Dhamantari and Dhansa villages of Raipur district of Chhattisgarh. Later on, they were

brought to Patnagarh of Bolangir district after the first Chauhan King Ramai Deb ascended

the throne of Bolangir Patna. It is presumed that the original Bhulia Meher community,

after settling down in the region, intermingled with the other castes too and soon the Costa

Mehers (who are usually tussar weavers) and Kuli Mehers (who are the least skilled

Weaving of a Bafta sari


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made available to the weavers. The weavers used to get Rs.10/ - to 12/- per month as

wages during that period.

During the year 1956, one voluntary organisation namely, American Friends Service

Committee working in the area for community development, extended h and to help the

skilled weaver artisans of Barpalli area through exporting the fabrics to abroad like USA,

Canada, Great Britain and Australia. Some of the items like table clothes, handkerchiefs,

bed sheets of coarse counts were produced during the perio d. The organisation worked till

1966 for a period of over 10 years. Thus one sees that some diversification in products had

happened even during those times, which interestingly is not seen in the cluster presently.

This indicates towards the lack of continuity of the efforts for product diversification and

niche market linkages possibly due to the absence of a suitable local governance

mechanism in the cluster which could have carried on the activities of the society and

effectively utilised the resources created by it.

It is worthwhile to note that concomitantly the state government went on to create more

cooperative societies which were registered during this period as Janata Vastralaya in

1957, Utkal Vastralaya (late 1960s), Meher Arts & Crafts (1971 ), Ananta Narayan Tie &

Dye Weavers Co-operative Society (1977), Jalpali Weavers Co-operative Societies (1981)

etc. In order to sustain the cooperative societies created in the region, the state

government provided a lot of support in form of subsidies, margin money, rebate, market

development assistance and technical assistance through its Assistant Director Textiles

(ADT) offices and their Weaving Supervisors and Textile Inspectors during 1980 1990.

Further to provide marketing support to the increased production through the primary

weaver cooperative societies, the birth of the Apex Society of the state - BOYANIKA took

place during this period. Sambalpuri Vastralaya also grew through this heightened support

to become one of the largest cooperatives in the country. During this period, these

institutions procured about 70 80% of the total production of the primary societies and


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of even these apex institutions were subsidised to a great extent to make the system

survive.

During the early 1990s itself, the support from these institutions started dwindling due to

their own internal problems and thus the off take for marketing by these agencies reduced

to as low as 10% of the total production. Moreover, lot of payments got stuck from the

support institutions and thus this whole system, which was surviving solely on these

supports, collapsed. Thus the weavers had to switch over to the employment being

provided by the master weavers, national and state awardees etc. One also finds that the

product range which earlier had ikats produced both on cotton as well as silk, is now mainly

in cottons only and in that too in a range of yarn combinations of 2/60s to 2/120s as per the

need of the market. The collapse of the government support to the PWCS also led to the

upsurge in the private raw material suppliers who now dominate the market and control the

prices of the cotton yarn procured by the weavers. Exploitation by these traders by way of

initially providing raw material and then buying off the finished product at their own terms

and further providing raw material to the weavers has also begun in the cluster now.

Presently most of the independent weavers are buying the raw materia l from these traders

situated in Barpalli and Bargarh and selling their produce in the weekly haat at Balejurimarket, the details of which are further given in the report.

6. Struc ture of Cluster

6.1 Core Cluster Actors

The core stakeholders of the cluster are the weavers, master weavers and the National/

State Awardees. The evolution of the weavers into master weavers and then of some of

the master weavers into the awardees tells about the organics relations that these core

cluster actors enjoy amongst themselves. This further shows how the growth of the cluster


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village from Barpalli, where about 10 looms are installed and all the activities of tying and

dyeing as well as weaving are done in-house. This production is exclusively made for

distant markets and supply of uniforms to the colleges of the state. On an average, directly

or indirectly, each master weaver controls anything from 10 -15 looms to about 35-40

looms. Considering the usual investment of raw material in a typical ikat sari made in the

cluster and the optimum rotation of cash being in 3 months, it i s estimated that a smaller

master weaver with 10 15 looms puts in about Rs. 1.5 lakhs for his micro enterprise

while a comparatively bigger master weaver with 35 40 looms has to block about Rs. 4.5

lakhs as working capital.

6.1.2 National/State Awardees

Some of the master weavers have excelled in the craft in so much that their skills have

been recognised by the State/ Central government. As such the cluster has about 11

National/ State Awardees amongst the master weavers of the cluster. Out of the 18 master

weavers of Barpalli town, 10 have received the state/ national award while 1 master

weaver of Jalpalli has been bestowed with this honour. They are actively involved in

innovation of new designs and marketing activities and have been able to nurture ma rketlinkages outside the state due to their participations in the various fairs and exhibitions

sponsored by the State/ Central government and thus ensure links with upmarket

marketing channels. While five awardees of Barpalli still continue to act as mas ter weavers

for their weavers, the other five have moved up the ladder and now devote their energy

only in creating new designs, passing on these to other master weavers attached to them9

and order a certain number of pieces of the design for onward market ing. The relationship

depicts a certain level of mutual trust where the design secrecy is maintained by the master

weavers for their awardees link and also tells about the relative lack of market links of the

master weavers who do not have the right consumer segment to be tapped for innovative

designs. They are mostly dependent on government supported exhibitions, especially from


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this income level turns insufficient for overall growth of the household and just a

subsistence level of living is achieved through the weaving activity.

The weavers of Barpali cluster can be classified into the following types as per the broad

category of the weavers of the state mentioned in the preceding paragraphs:

Type I:TheEntrepreneur Weavers (EW) weavers buying their own raw material,

producing the fabric and then selling the same at local haat, through traders etc. These

weavers, with a total population of about 2150 in the cluster, mainly operate at the local

haat. These constitute about 65% of the total weaver population of the cluster. Some of

them are organised in the form of Self Help Groups (SHGs) about 26 in number, and

some are also linked (on paper) with some cooperative society. Normally, this category

of weavers produce clothes like single ikat/ double ikat cotton saris which are

predominantly consumed in the local market.

Type II: TheContractual Weavers (CW) weavers attached to the master weavers

with a low risk and a seemingly low to moderate exploitatio n by the master weavers in

terms of low wages. The 42 master weavers of the cluster supervise and work with

about 300 weavers.

However, it is important to note that most of the type I and Type II weavers are those who

were at some point of time the type III weavers, i.e. attached to the cooperative societies

earlier. Although there are around 880 weavers enrolled as members of the 3 primary co -

operative societies, there are hardly 50 weavers at present working under the co-operative

fold. As the cooperative societies have collapsed, the weavers have switched over to eitherindependent operations or got linked with the master weavers.

6 1 4 Tie & Dyers


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6.2 Other Cluster Actors

6.2.1 Raw material suppliers

The main raw materials required by the cluster are cotton, silk and tussar yarns. Cotton

yarn is obtained from traders/suppliers having linkages with the cotton mills of Tamil Nadu/

Maharashtra whereas mulberry/ tussar yarns are purchased from Karnataka and

Chhattisgarh respectively. This is usually through various promotional agencies like NHDC,

Sambalpuri Vastralaya, BOYANIKA etc. who supply gray, bleached or dyed yarn to the

weavers. Raw materials are also available in the weekly local market from the bulk

suppliers located in Bargarh and Barpalli There are 5 traders each from Barpalli as well as

Bargarh who regularly supply various types of yarns, dyestuffs and chemicals to masterweavers and weavers.

6.2.2 Equipment Suppliers

Mostly, pit looms of up to 52 56 inches are being used in the cluster in which Dobbys of

4 to 12 hooks are used for borders. Nearly 70 80% of the looms of the cluster have a

dobby attachment. Although there is no loom supplier in the cluster, there are certain

weavers who purchase raw wood from the market and with the help of the local carpentersthey prepare and install the loom. However, there are 5 accessories supplier available in

the cluster. Besides, accessories are also available in the local weekly market.

6.2.3 Traders

There are about 20 traders who take care of marketing of Barpalli handloom fabrics. Out of

these 20, about 15 traders procure fabrics directly from weavers in addition to procurement

from the master weavers. Some of these traders have retail outlets in Barpalli town. In

addition to selling local handloom fabrics, these traders also sell the handlooms of other

states like Chhattisgarh, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh. About 5 -6 traders have


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7.2 Bleaching & Dyeing

Both the cotton and silk threads are bleached and dyed by the weavers themselves. The

maximum quantity of threads dyed is for two to four saris only. VAT and Naphthol -FastBase dyes are used for dyeing cotton hank yarns where as Acid dyes are used for dyeing

silk filaments. The process sequences of cotton and silk yarns used by the weavers are

given below:

Cotton:

1. Soaking of yarns over night in a caustic soda and soap solution

2. Washing of yarns with canal water3. Whitening of yarns using surf/ Tinopal

4. Washing of yarns

5. Dyeing of yarns using VAT and naphthol- base separately.

Silk:

1. Soaking of gray silk with water for over night2. Degumming of silk using soap and soda ash and boil for 30 minutes

3. Washing of filaments using tap water

4. Dyeing of filaments using Acid dyes at about 80oC for around 30 minutes.

The entire process is done by the weavers at their homes using stoves, improper uten sils

and crude make-shift kind of gadgets. The process parameters like temperature, time,

quantity of chemicals to be taken etc. are therefore not within the control of the weavers.

As a result, poor quality of dyeing and thus poor quality fabrics is a fea ture of the cluster.

7.3 Warping


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Procurement of Raw material

(2/120s Grey Cotton Yarn, Dyes & Chemicals)

Soaking of Hank with Water for Overnight

Opening of Bundle & Rewinding /Making Chains

Squeezing of yarn and opening

Bleaching and DryingWarp

Wheel Winding

Peg Warping

Tying as per

Design

Setting of

Tie & Dye Frame

Weft

Dyeing & Drying

Opening ofTied Yarn

Body Weaving

Weft

(Anchal Tie & Dyeing)

Wheel Winding

Peg Warping

Anchal Weaving

Dyeing of Warp

Pirn Winding

SizingPreparation of

Healed(option)

Winding/Fitting

Of Warp with ReedLoom Setting

Dobby

Attachment

Production Process

Product Single Ikat Sambalpuri Cotton Sari

Procurement of Raw material

(2/120s Grey Cotton Yarn, Dyes & Chemicals)

Soaking of Hank with Water for Overnight

Opening of Bundle & Rewinding /Making Chains

Squeezing of yarn and opening

Bleaching and DryingWarp

Wheel Winding

Peg Warping

Tying as per

Design

Setting of

Tie & Dye Frame

Weft

Dyeing & Drying

Opening ofTied Yarn

Body Weaving

Weft

(Anchal Tie & Dyeing)

Wheel Winding

Peg Warping

Anchal Weaving

Dyeing of Warp

Pirn Winding

SizingPreparation of

Healed(option)

Winding/Fitting

Of Warp with ReedLoom Setting

Dobby

Attachment

Production Process

Product Single Ikat Sambalpuri Cotton Sari

Production ProcessProduct Cotton/Silk Bafta Sari with Phada Kumbha Design

Production ProcessProduct Cotton/Silk Bafta Sari with Phada Kumbha Design


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The yarn in the warp and/or weft is dyed in different colours at different places by tying the

place tightly by thread, thick leaf or rubber strip where no dyeing is required and then

dipping the yarn in dye

bath. Thus the untied portion of the yarn gets dyed while the tied portion remains un -dyed.

The process may be repeated by tying the dyeing the portions and opening full or part of

the tied portion as required and then dyeing the yarn, bringing in another colour on the yarn

at places wherever required as per the design.

7.5 Bobbin Winding

After dyeing, the yarn is loosened and woundon a bobbin for preparation of warping, sizing

and pirn winding. This is achieved using small

bobbin winding machines made out of a

simple pulley mechanism where the dyed yarn

gets transferred onto a swift and from which it

is woven onto bobbins using a simple

charkha.Pirn winding is the process of transferring the

yarns from the hanks into spools of the

shuttles used in the weft while weaving. Pirn winding is achieved by using a small swift

consisting of a rotary wheel attached to a harness of convey or belt giving a similar rotary

motion to the spool mounted at the other end. Rotation of the wheel by hands results in the

rotation of the spool and thereby the thread is wound on small spindles.

7.6 Sizing

Sizing is a process where starch based

chemicals is coated on the warp threads

Weavin of Double Ikat dress material


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7.7.1 Drafting

The process of passing the warp yarn through the

heald of the loom as per the design to be woven is

known as drafting. This helps in the future process of

weaving when locating a broken yarn becomes easy

due to the heald and also helps in the designing

processes.

7.7.2 Filling of Reed

In this process, warp is passed through the reed and

the heralds. The warp threads are then joined to the

old warp threads with a deft twist of hand.

7.7.3 Setting up of Dobby

Prior to start of the weaving process, the weaver sets the design of the border and thepallu. The respective ends of the design are tied to an attachment called Dobby. This

process takes around 2 to 3 hours or more depending on the nature of the design. The

effects are produced with the help of weft threads.

7.8 Weaving

The weaving is performed by the skilled weavers

of the family. The looms being used are mainly

traditional pit looms with throw / fly shuttle

technique.

Dobby used in the cluster

Weavin of Sin le Ikat Sari


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Dyeing & Sizing provide nearly 5.5% value to the cost of the sari.

Marketing mark ups add up to 10% and 22% respectively on the cost price of sari.

Figure 1: Value Chain of Sngle Ikat Sambalpuri Cotton Sari

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

Raw material Cost After Dyeing & Sizing After Tying & Dyeing After Weaving= Cost Price MW/ PWCS Margin

Value addition stages

Incrementalvalueadded(%)

Figure 2: Value Chain of Cotton x Silk bafta Sari

100

120


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Figure 3: Value Chain of Double Ikat Sambalpuri Cotton Sari

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

Raw material Cost After Dyeing & Sizing After Tying & Dyeing After Weaving= Cost Price MW/ PWCS Margin

Value addition stages

Increm

entalvalueadded(%)

Figure 4: Value Chain of Sambalpuri Cotton Dress Material

100

120


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9. Analysis of Business Operat ions

he following paragraphs would analyze the clusters business operations with a view toidentify issues which need to be sorted out in order to optimise the entire process.

9.1 Raw Material Procurement

Spinning mills have closed down in Orissa since l ong and as such cotton yarn is procured

through a variety of intermediaries, both public as well as private, from the mills of Tamil

Nadu/ Maharashtra. While the public intermediaries are NHDC11

, Sambalpuri Vastralaya

and BOYANIKA, the private intermediaries are a chain of commission agents and traders

from the mills to the bleaching and dyeing companies to the bulk traders located within the

state and even in Bargarh and Barpalli. This chain of intermediaries results into

comparatively higher rates and an inconsistent supply. Some of these bulk traders located

within Bargarh and Barpalli also have in-house dyeing facilities and thus hey tend to sell

dyed as well as bleached/ unbleached yarn in the weekly local haat at Balejuri.

Dependence for silk yarns is on Karnataka, West Bengal and Chhattisgarh etc. However

since the requirement of silk in the cluster is presently low, the procurement procedure for

silk yarn does not have any major issues. For supplies of dyes, there are private traders

located within Bargarh and even in the small villages of the cluster, who not only supply the

dye, but also provide the recipe of dyeing the yarn. These dyes are sold and bought in

loose and thus the quality of the dyestuff and its actual price are questionable. Possible

use of toxic dyestuffs/ chemicals, banned in the Western countries, may limit the scope for

exports from the cluster.

The prevailing price of various types of yarns and dyestuffs in the cluster are as under:

C i f P i li t f Y

T


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The prices of the yarns have recently shot up very high and thus the weavers have been

facing a lot of problems in order to cope with the higher procurement prices without any

commensurate rise in the sale prices.

9.2 Production Process

The overall production process adopted in the cluster i s no different from the other

handloom clusters in general. However, the weavers have customised certain processes

and techniques for their specific needs. The sequence of the activities is as follows:

9.2.1 Warping

Peg warping is carried out in

the house of weavers in

Barpali cluster. The warp is

prepared for only 2 4 saris

at a time and this

necessitates the setting up of

loom at short intervals. The

present system of putting the

warp on the tie & dye frames

necessitates that not too

many yarns are put on the

same at a time since this

would adversely affect the

tying and dyeing quality

since too many yarns would then be required to be tied and dyed and thus the danger of

the penetration of the dye in the undesired portions cannot be ruled out. However, this


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woven in different seasons. Moreover, the use of rice paste slightly alters the shade of the

dyed yarn and also poses issues while packing of the fabric for long distances (foul smell

etc.). However, for the domestic market, which prefers stiff and highly starched saris, the

process is highly appropriate.

9.2.3 Dyeing

Dyeing is done by the weavers after tying the

yarns as per the design requirements. VAT

Naphthol and Sulphur dyes are used on cotton

and acid dyes are used on silk by the weavers

in the cluster. The warped yarns tied onto a

frame are tied using threads/ rubber strips/

plastic wires etc. and then the dyer rubs each

yarn bundle tied onto the frame by using

brushes and dips the yarns in the dye bath till the desired shade and dispersion of the dye

has not taken place. This process is so tedious and based so much on trial and error that

proper matching of shades for large volumes of fabrics cannot be achieved. Further, a

completely foolproof and proper dyeing process cannot be also adopted due to thelimitation of the yarns being tied and the care

that this tying should not open or else the

design may get distorted due to the

penetration of the dye in un-desired portions.

Thus the dyeing has the problems of colour

matching, less than optimum fastness, and

the hands of the dyers being subjected to theharmful dyes and chemicals for a long

duration. Washing of the yarn after scour ing/

bleaching process is carried out at the canal This leads to weakening of the yarns since


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households. The productivity of these pit looms is very low. Further, the pit looms play

havoc on the back of the weaver leading to fatigue and thus again low productivity. Even if

the pedals of the looms can be changed, a considerable improvement in the ease of t he

weaver can be achieved. The use of dobby limits the size of the motifs and also the

number of patterns which can be created. The use of jacquard can help the weavers make

more varieties of designs on the saris along with the Ikat patterns.

9.2.5 Design & Product range

The design and product range in the cluster is quite limited. Saris and ladies dress material

predominate. The limited design and product ranges could be due to the following reasons:

The lack of exposure of the weavers to new concepts and ideas and market

requirements

Lack of any demand for new designs from the traditional marketing channels (Sambalpuri

Vastralaya & BOYANIKA), who have largely pushed their products to the Oriya clientele.

Limitation of the ikat technique itself - Ikat, being a tie & dye technique, provides mainly

sharp contrasts (dark base with the design/ motif emanating from the undyed portion)

and thus makes the use of pastel shades, which are nowadays in high demand, difficult

and expensive to achieve.

In its finest form, an Ikat fabric looks quite similar to a printed fabric and thus the perception

of the high amount of skill and intensive labour involved does not get appreciated by thebuyer. The buyer usually tends to ascribe low value to the cotton fabric since i t is not

considered to be fit for ceremonial occasion in India. Many designers feel that the same

amount of Ikat work done on a silk fabric provides better returns than on a cotton fabric


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invariably a part of these cooperative societies, they are individually also not able to reap

the benefit from the provision of Credit cards under Swarojgari Credit Card Scheme being

provided by the public sector banks. The poor financial condition of the PWCS has lent the

entire handloom sector as unviable for investments by most of the banks. It is important to

not that the newly created SHGs of women weavers in some of the villages of the cluster

have been able to receive some loans from the same banks under the other sche mes such

as SGSY etc. The Directorate of Textiles & Handloom, Govt. of Orissa has initiated a

revival package of One Time Settlement (OTS) for the PWCS.

9.2.7 Credit analysis of the cluster

The total credit requirement of the cluster can be assessed on the basis of thepresent product range and the looms engaged in the activity and their raw materialand wage requirements.

Table 2: Number of looms engaged in different production

Product Range No. of looms engagedDress Material

Kurta

Salwar

Dupattas

502030

Saris

Silk

Cotton -single ikat

Cotton double ikat

25450300

A. Dress Materials

1. Kurta


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Therefore, 30 looms will produce 30,000 metre of dupattas worth Rs. 13.65 lakhs.

Hence, 100 looms producing dress materials, about 93,000 metres of clothwill be produced whose cost price is Rs. 53.19 lakhs.

B. Sari

1. Silk Sari

In 5 days 1 sari costing to Rs. 1050/- is produced in 1 loom. Thus, 60 saris worthRs. 63,000/- can be produced in a year in 1 loom.

Therefore, 25 looms will produce 1500 pieces of saris worth Rs. 15.75 lakhs in ayear.

2. Cotton-single ikat sari

In 8 days 2 saris worth Rs. 1345/- is produced in 1 loom. Thus, 70 saris worth Rs.47,100/- can be produced in a year in 1 loom.

Therefore, 450 looms will produce 31,500 pieces of saris worth Rs. 211.95 lakhs ina year.

3. Cotton-double ikat sari

In 10 days 2 saris worth Rs. 1600/- is produced in 1 loom. Thus, 60 saris worth Rs.48,000/- can be produced in a year in 1 loom.

Therefore, 300 looms will produce 18,000 pieces of saris worth Rs. 144.00 lakhs ina year


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singleikat sari

Cotton

doubleikat sari

300 18,000 pieces Rs. 144.00 lakhs Rs. 432.00 lakhs

TOTAL Rs. 425.00 lakhs Rs. 1275.00 lakh

9.2.8 Marketing

The cluster was traditionally dependent on the government channels and the apex

cooperative societies such as BOYANIKA and Sambalpuri Vastralaya for the marketing of

its products. However, slowly and slowly some master weavers and the awardees were

able to develop contacts with the outside markets and thus started supplying in a small way

to these customers. Nevertheless, the major share of the sales was within Orissa even by

these master weavers. At the same time, the local markets witnessed the entry of cheaper

printed ikat-like fabrics and also cheaper ikat hand-woven fabrics from Andhra Pradesh,

though definitely of lesser design finesse. This led to a shift in the market preference for

cheaper alternatives and thus instead of high value silk based Ikat fabrics, the production

and marketing of cotton based Ikat fabrics gained momentum.

Presently, the cluster is marketing its products predominantly through the local weekly haat

and through small traders/ local shops wherein nearly 80% of the production of the cluster

is sold. The remaining 15 to 20% of the stocks are sold by the Master weavers, National

Awardees, in various metros like Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata etc. and a very small portion

of production moves through BOYANIKA/ Sambalpuri Vastralaya. Since credit sale is not

allowed to the PWCS by the controlling officers of Directorate of Textiles & Handlooms, thesocieties are not able to reach out to the other markets which usually demand products on

a consignment basis.


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regular support to the PWCS to solve their technical as well as other problems. The various

developmental schemes of the DC (Handlooms) office are also administered by these

offices.

10.2 Krutartha Acharya Centre for Co-operative Management, Bargarh

This is an institute for providing training to the management, employees, and members of

the cooperative societies and the staff of the Directorate of Textiles & handlooms and other

such organisations on the principles of cooperation, management of cooperatives, their

administration, legal procedures, rules & regulations for production, profit sharing, audit

and other administrative issues. The institute has been conducting training programmes for

the officials of the state government on these issues. The institute is keen on promoting the

new Self Help Cooperative Act and has also acted as a resource person for such

orientation programmes for the new act. Thus the institute and its faculty can be effectively

used for providing guidance to not only the weavers but also the officials of the state

government about the new Self Help Cooperative Act.

10.3 Weavers Service Centre, Bhubaneshwar

The Weavers Service Centre (WSC), the state representative of the office of DC

(Handlooms) Government of India, is based at Bhubaneshwar and has the jurisdiction over

the entire state. WSC has carried out a number of training programmes on design,

technology in the cluster in the past. The WSC also provides marketing support to

handloom weavers through the various marketing events across the country in which the

states participation is coordinated by WSC. The WSC also provides registration of theweavers so that they become eligible for the various support schemes of the DC

(Handloom) office, especially the marketing activities. Presently it does not have any

ifi ti iti l d f th l t t t b t b t i l h d f


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10.5 Institute of Textile Technology, Choudwar, Cuttack

The state has a Textile Technology Institute at Choudwar, which conducts diploma as well

as degree courses for Textile technology and has state of the art facilities for testing,calibration, CAD CAM designing etc. Presently the institutes services are hardly available

to the cluster but the probable areas where the institute can be of great value to the cluster

actors are:

Addressing the issues of productivity in the Ikat tying and dyeing technique

Experimentation on various techniques for possibly getting lighter shades in the base of

the fabrics in Ikat patterns, etc. Standardisation of dyeing process, preparation of new shade cards etc.

The institute can be used for conducting training programmes for the weavers in the

cluster.

10.6 Sambalpur District Central Cooperative Bank, Bargarh

This bank has been traditionally providing loans to the various cooperative societies and

the SHGs of weavers. However, due to the poor condition of the cooperatives and lack of

any sustained common business activities by most of the SHGs, the bank has not shown

any keen interest in financing the same. In fact, during the course of interaction the bank

has not shown any inclination for continuing any activity with the handloom sector as such.

10.7 State Bank of India, Barpalli

The Barpalli branch of State Bank of India has recently show interest in the cluster by

providing loans to the SHGs of the various villages of t he cluster as a part of the various

ongoing schemes. This has been at the behest of the intervening institutions such as the

Women & Child Development department, local DRDA office etc. hence the bank ca be a


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12.5% per annum. The organisation has door to door service towards finance related

issues. However, as on date, its involvement in the cluster is not to be seen.

10.11 Regulated Marketing Committee (RMC), Bargarh

Behera market is run by the Regulated Marketing Committee (RMC) of Bargarh district.

The committee comprises of 15 elected members from traders, agriculture department,

municipalities, Gram Panchayat and two other nominated members from Govt. of Orissa.

The District Sub-

collector is the

Chairman of the

committee. The RMC

had purchased

approximately 5.5 acres

of Govt. land in Behera

Gram Panchayat near

Balijuri bus stand during

the year 1990 with an

objective to set up a

daily market for the

traders/ farmers of the

district for better market

linkages. Subsequently,

during the year 2002,

after receiving a lot of complaints from the traders/ weavers on security grounds, the

weekly handloom market, which used to be organised at Bargarh town on every Friday,

was shifted to Behera market by the RMC. The market opens on every Friday for

handlooms, beginning at 4 A.M. and continues up to 11 A.M. It is estimated that this hat

A weaver at the Handloom Haat


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only once in 3 weeks to buy in bulk and then stock the same for regular consumers. These

traders could not find any major issues as far as quality of dyeing or any other such

parameters.

Interestingly a large number of small traders of Bandhpalli and other villages of the cluster

were also found in the market, who were buying the saris from the weavers and stocking

them. This indicates that either they have a local market or they in turn supply to the

traders of other neighbouring states. The average purchase by these traders is of about 30

100 saris per week. It was estimated that each weaver was sitting with about 20 saris for

selling in the haat. Considering that a weaver cannot make more than 2 saris per week,

any of the following situations can be possible:

The weaver is not able to sell all the saris at every weekly haat and thus brings his old

stock along with the newly woven pieces

The weaver brings in products of not only h is own loom but of other looms as well.

The weaver does not come every week to the haat and comes only when sufficient

number of pieces is ready for sales.

However, it is important to note here that the weavers were found to be sitting with as littleas 5 6 pieces to as many as 250 pieces individually in the haat.

10.12 NGOs

Three registered NGOs are operating in and around Barpalli and have some linkages with

the cluster. One of them namely, Bharat Integrated Social Welfare Agency (BISWA) based

at Sambalpur had formed one SHG at Barpalli during the year 2003. The NGO financed

Rs.20000/- to the group by charging interest @ Rs. 18% per annum. All the financialtransactions were made at Sambalpur only. Due to perceived higher interest rate and

communication problem, the group withdrew from the NGO and renamed itself as


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amongst the stakeholders. Hence an overview of the cooperative societies, SHGs etc. is

being attempted in the following paragraphs.

11.1 Self Help Groups (SHGs)

The cluster has some basic elements of cooperation and th is is evident from the existence

of the SHGs in the villages of almost all the Gram Panchayats of the block. There are 24

weaver SHGs present in the cluster out of which 18 are of only women. The details of

these SHGs, their present bank linkages and their grading by NABARD are being given at

the table no.1. These SHGs have been created by a number of institutions, mainly DRDA

and Women & Child Development. Some of the SHGs have been availing loans from the

banks for buying raw material but besides this the group approach to any other activities is

not visible in the cluster. The capacity of the weavers to invest in their own raw material

and produce and sell directly in the market also tells about their entrepreneurial capacity as

also their willingness to work on their own.

11.2 Local Clubs

There are 21 local clubs existing in the cluster. The clubs have been mainly floated by thevarious political parties to woo their voters . Most of them do not have exclusivemembership of weavers but some of them are having weavers as predominant members.A list of these local clubs and their present activities is being given at Annexure 7. One ofthe most prominent clubs is being explained in detail here.

Maa Samaleswari Pathagar, Bandhpalli

One formal club namely, Maa Samaleswari Pathagar, has been formed by the 62 weavers

of Bandhpali village. Each weaver has contributed Rs. 1000/- as membership fees. The

objective of this committee is primarily to provide loans to the needy weavers of the village

on a monthly rate of interest. Besides, it also procures fabrics from the weavers/ local


31/52

coarse varieties of products such as napkins, lungis, dhotis etc. It also acts as a master

weaver for about 50 weavers of Bandhpalli and Baghbadi villages. It has 60 outlets within

and outside the state. It has an established office with the Managing Director being an

Assistant Director of the Directorate of Textiles & Handlooms deputed to administer the

society. Sambalpuri Vastralaya has been one of the main marketers for the cluster but now

it is facing a financial crisis.

11.4 Primary Weavers Co-operative Societies

There are four no. of primary co-operative societies having around 1000 no. of weavers as

members. But actually about 50 members are regularly working in the societ ies. In order tomeet the working capital requirement for production and marketing activities, the PWCS

receive cash credit loan from district co-operative central bank. The PWCS procure raw

materials either from National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) or from the

private traders and give it to the members for weaving. Members are paid for their wages

and the co-operative sells the products to the Apex WCS i.e. BOYANIKA and /or to the

private traders.

11.4.1 Major Issues of PWCS

11.4.1.1 Marketing

Marketing continues to be the biggest problem of weavers co -operative societies in the

cluster. Handloom production appears to be not market oriented. Absence of new designs,

poor colour combination, lack of understanding of changing markets, inefficient marketing

capability, absence of market linkages outside the cluster are some of the prime factors

that need to be addressed for the growth of business activities of the PWCS. Besides,Apex WCS i .e. Boyanika which is supposed to provide marketing support to the PWCS is

neither providing any backward linkages in terms of providing new designs, colour

bi ti k t d d idi f d li k th h lifti f t k


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11.4.3 Employees Provident Fund (EPF)

The PWCs are facing problems from EPF department . Recently, the EPF authority has

seized the bank account of Ananta Narayan Tie & Dye WCS. Out of the fear of action to be

taken by the EPF department, the secretary of the society seems to be repulsive to

discharge his duty properly and smoothly, thus affecting the progress of development work

of the society.

11.4.4 Restriction on appointment/ enhancement of salary of the paid employees by

Govt.

The Register, Co-operative Societies (RCS) Orissa vide his circular no. 8059 dated 26-05-2000 has imposed ban on fresh appointment/ enhancement of salary of paid employees of

the society until further order. As a result, the salary of the staff of the societies since last

five years could not be revised. This is cited as one of the reasons for the staff not taking

much interest to discharge their duties on day to day affairs of the society.

11.4.5 Revival/ Rejuvenation of PWCSRevival of these PWCS can take place if the following steps are taken:

11.4.5.1 Repayment of old dues by Apex WCS / Govt. The old dues if cleared would

provide sufficient working capital to these PWCS and help them reach out to better

markets.

11.4.5.2 Conversion of existing PWCS under Self Help Co-operative Act 2001 -

Existing co-operatives with potential could be helped to convert into the cooperative under

the Self Help Co-operatives Act. For conversion to the new Act, it would be best to look

only at such co-operatives as could get their audit up to date and as could wipe off losses

with releases from the Govt. and Boyanika/Sambalpuri Vastralaya. The option of igno ring

existing co-operatives and establishing new co-operatives in the cluster too could be


33/52

Table 1: Details of existing SHGs of Barpalli Cluster

Area Name of SHG Date ofform.

Members

CommonActivity

FinancingBank

Subsidyreceived

(Rs.)

Loanavailed

(Rs.)

1. BarpaliNAC

1. GangadharMeher (Male)

2. Maa Mangala3.Maa Baisnabi4. Maa Tarini5. Maa Metakani6. Laxmi Narayan7. Gangadhar

Meher (Woman)

11.01.03

11.05.0221.06.0323.08.0529.08.0512.07.0526.09.03

20

161915201520

Tie & Dyeand Weaving

Thrift &Credit

StitchingThrift &CreditThrift &

CreditThrift &Credit Thrift& Credit andtie & dyeing

SBI,Barpali

SBI, Barpali-do--do--do-

BAGB,Barpali

SBI, Barpali

-

-50,000

---

20,000

1,20,000

1,00,00030,000

---

1,00,000

2. Baghbadi 1.Jyoti2.Binapani3.Patitapabana4.Jay Jagannath5.Bir Bajrang

6.Sairam7. Maa Durga8. MaaChandrahasini

19.04.0121.10.0208.12.0213.09.0208.04.02

04.10.0218.03.0101.02.05

1210191513

121015

Tie & DyeingThrift &CreditThrift &Credit

Thrift &Credit Thrift& CreditThrift &CreditThrift &CreditThrift &Credit

SBI, Barpali-do-

SBI, BarpaliSBI, Barpali

-do-

-do--do--do-

10,000--

10,00010,000

---

-3,00,0005,860004,00,00050,000

1,20,0002,50,00063,000

3. Bandhpali 1.Maa

Jagadamba2.MaaSamaleswari3.Mahalaxmi

4 Jay Maa

23.05.02

23.05.0220.12.025.7.01

19

201414

Tie & Dyeing

Thrift &CreditThrift &Credit

Thrift &

Andhra Bank

-do--do--do-

25,000

---

3,10,000

25,00025,00025000


34/52

32

Table 2: List of Primary Weavers Co-operative Societies

Sr.

No.

Name of

thesociety

Address Date of

Formation

Members

Enrolled

Cloth dues pending

with Boyanika /Sambalpuri

Vastralaya

(Rs. In lakhs)

Dues

receivablefrom Govt.

Rs. In lakhs

Loan

outstandingwith Bank

Present Stocks

1 Janata

Vastralaya

At/P.O. Barpalli,

Dist. Bargarh

12.12.57 203 10.86 25.17 49.20 10.97

2 Meher

Arts &

Crafts

-do- 2.4.71 376 4.60 11.36 19.73 6.36

3 AnantaNarayan

Tie & Dye

-do- 3.5.77 121 1.00 - - 0.21

4 Jalpalli

PWCS

At/P.O. Jalpalli,

Dist. Bargarh

31.1.81 295 2.85 10.38 36.05 7.59


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12. Infrastru ctu re analysis of clus ter

The clusters potential is marred

by some infrastructural issues.The connectivity of the villages

is very poor. The villages lack

sufficient spaces for peg

warping and brush sizing and

may have demand for other

such activities such as common

dyeing, yarn bank, commondesign centre and information

kiosk etc. However, since

presently there is no entity to

own and manage these types of

infrastructure, the cluster is surviving on the rudimentary facilities that it has. It wou ld be

perhaps only after some interventions in the cluster that the need for such infrastructure

would get articulated.

13. Cluster Map The current cluster map is placed at annexure 3 of the report.

14. SWOT Analysis

14.1 Strengths

Ikats of Orissa have a lot of repu tation and fame

Rich resource of traditional skills in the form of national & state awardees Regular sales at the local market

Strong support from the State government departments

Poor sanitation in Bandhapalli Village


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14.3 Opportunities

Increasing demand for cotton fabrics across the globe

Persistent support from state government for various activities Possibility of revival of some cooperative societies under the new Self Help

Cooperative Act

Ikat can neither be copied on power looms nor by printing

14.4 Threats

Low general consumer perception for the skill involved in the ikat process leading to

disregard of the product Competition from similar looking printed fabrics

Poor financial conditions of the weaving community as well as the government support

institutions which owe to the PWCS

15. Vision for the clus ter

The vision for the cluster is proposed as:

Barpali cluster would reach out to niche buyers offering its exquisite Ikats in avaried product range to increase the present margins by 15% and the output byabout 10% by the year 2009.

16. Implementat ion Strategy

Barpali handloom cluster is unique in the following ways:

Firstly it has a large number of entrepreneur weavers who buy raw materials, produce

fabric and sell directly. Presence of a strong local market has supported these


37/52

activities. The village level clubs which run in quite a few numbers play a lobbying as well

as welfare activities in the cluster.

While the collapse of the cooperatives has led to a substantial population of

entrepreneur weavers, there is yet again a population of contractual weavers in the cluster

who essentially remain in this state due to lack of funds and risk taking capacity to venture

into the entrepreneurial mode. In some cases these are the weavers who get high ly paid by

the national awardees due to the intricate design they weave and thus get paid much better

than the other weavers.

As such the intervention strategy for the cluster would be separately for entrepreneur

weavers, contractual weavers, master weavers, national awardees and then this again may

be customised and timed as per the need of each of the four villages of the cluster.

Entrepreneur Weavers: This set of weavers is mainly operating in the local markets and

the broad strategy would be to initially increase their market penetration in the existing local

market by helping them avail credit to be able to regularly buy raw material. Further they

would be also helped to diversify into new product ranges and alternative markets to cope

with the lean seasons of the local markets if it is found that the cost of capital would notjustify producing and stocking products during the lean season and that the prices in the

peak season fall due to increased supply. For this matter, these weavers would be

motivated to form Joint Liability Groups for availing credit and need based networks for the

sake of common purchase of raw material and marketing.

Master Weavers: Since these persons have tried out in the regional nd local markets an

have the comparative capacity to invest for exploring new and better paying markets, theywould be helped to take up group based collective marketing efforts and even avail credit

in order to increase their production quantum to sufficient volumes for the distant markets.

Li k ith i k ti h l ld b tt t d f th t


38/52

linkages with the buyers outside the state and their orders have remained very sporadic.

There too the competition has increased and thus the margins have been diminishing. As

such these awardees, who tend to operate with their premium pricing tactics with highly

exquisite fabrics, are not able to reap commercial benefits of their skills. Attempts would

be made to alter the value propositions of their products through either inexpensive design

changes or creation of more value addition perception through new techniques such as use

of vegetable dyed Ikats, use of a variety of yarns in the Ikats to create unique kind of

ranges. These awardees would be helped to reach out to mainstream bulk buyers and

exporters through their joint marketing and value addition efforts.

Contractual weavers: The contractual weavers are either into cotton or into silk weaving.

The local market is predominantly for cotton fabrics only. Thus the weavers who are into

cotton weaving and wish to graduate into entrepreneurial mode, would be helped to access

credit, the present limiting factor and then helped with other necessary inputs for their

capacity building. However, such a route would be initially not taken for the weavers who

are into silk weaving till they are not able to assess the viability of markets and their

capacity to operate in those markets. Taster sessions for some of these weavers, who

have the willingness to outgrow the local markets, would be provided about the nichemarkets, through exposure visits and helping for participation in fairs and exhibitions to

begin with.

Thus the broad strategy to be followed would be to initially consolid ate the position of the

cluster in the local and regional markets substantially and at the same time help some of

the willing weavers to move on to other markets. Emphasis would be to motivate weavers

into group behaviour, thus bringing down their transact ion costs for procurement, sellingetc; help them access credit as per their needs to sustain their regular production to their

fullest potential and then later be provided other inputs such as design/ product

d l t t t i i t Th ibilit f b k / i fi i tit ti


39/52

might take over this role too. Hence the approach would be weigh the options and then

choose the better one.

The CDA would be supported by a number of field support staff appointed by a local NGO

which would also act as the channel for submission of proposals for support, follow up on

registration of self help cooperatives, if need arises, also extend its micro credit support to

the weavers and play a key role for the cluster till the same responsibility gets gradually

transferred to the weavers own institutions.

17. Propo sed Ac tion Plan

17.1 Short term

Exposure visits: Exposure visits of the stake holders would be made in two phases. In

the first phase, some of the members of the SHGs would be taken to the well performing

clusters where the CDP of UNIDO has been successfully implemented for enabl ing

them to understand the broad concept of CDP. In second phase, some of the selected

young entrepreneurs would be taken to some of the important markets outside Orissa to

promote marketing activities. In all the visits, the stake holders will contribute at least

10% of the total expenses.

Strengthening of SHGs: Presently, although there is an existence of significant no. of

SHGs in the cluster, their activities related to production and marketing is very limited.

Many of the SHGs are dependent upon the Govt. subsidies. In the present action plan,

the groups would be pushed into common business activities like, procurement of raw

materials, production and marketing through a reputed NGO so that they would be self

sufficient in long run.

Formation of new Self Help Groups (SHG): At least 15 to 20 new SHGs would be

also formed and strengthened for doing common business activities like the existing

SHGs.


40/52

delivery time, mode of payments etc. more and more new markets outside the state

would be developed. At least 3 to 4 buyer -seller meets can be organised both inside

and outside the state.

Design Inputs: Design plays a vital role in marketing. One of the main reasons for

decreasing popularity of handloom products of Orissa is the absence of new designs.

Thus, 10 to 15 young qualified weavers would be given training on CAD/CAM on design

development from a reputed institution. Later on, one CAD/CAM centre would be set up

in the cluster and this young group would take the lead role in providing design

development support to the cluster stake holders.

Product Diversification (including vegetable dyed products): At present, the cluster

is producing only a limited range of handloom products like sari, salwar suit, lungi,stoles, handkerchiefs using synthetic colours. Attempts would be made to develop new

products using vegetable and other colours which have tremendous market demand.

More emphasis would be given to develop market led products.

Strengthening of the yarn supply for the cluster: Presently, the weavers are

procuring raw materials either from the local market or from 2 to 3 local suppliers for

which some times the price is unexpectedly become high. There is no system to control

the price of the raw materials. Attempts would be made to open a yarn depot under MillGate Price Scheme of Govt. of India through National Handloom Development

Corporation (NHDC), Bhubaneswar.

Credit Linkages for the Groups: Although the groups are availing credit from the bank,

their activities are not looked into by the bank. As a result, many a times the purpose of

availing credit is not utilised properly by the groups. In this context, more and more

micro finance institutes / financing institutions would be linked to the cluster.

Entrepreneurship development amongst artisans: After forming and strengtheningvarious groups around 25 to 30 young entrepreneurs would be selected and would be

provided further training on entrepreneurship so that they can take lead role in overall

b i d l t i th l t


41/52

Improvement in dyeing practices: Presently, the weavers are following traditional

dyeing techniques for which the colour combinations, fastness to light, washing e tc. of

handloom fabrics are not up to the satisfaction of the customers. Attempts would

therefore be made to adopt new dyeing technology with latest developed dyes among

the weavers.

Buyer-Seller meets: In order to promote marketing activities, buyer-seller meets would

be organised at different intervals both inside and out side the cluster by inviting reputed

designers, exporters, producers from all corners of the country and abroad.

Welfare activities with the support of various agencies for the weavers: To initiate

this activity, attempts would be made initially to cover weavers under various welfare

schemes of Govt. of India like Health Insurance Scheme, Mahatma Gandhi BunakarBima Yojana, issue of photo identity card to weavers etc. Depending upon the needs

other welfare activities would be taken up in the cluster such as sanitation, medical

check up.


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40

Annexure 1:India: Financial Year-wise, Variety-wise Production of Cloth

(Qty. in Million Sq. Mtrs.)

Financial Year Cotton Cloth Blended Cloth 100% Non Cotton Cloth Total Qty. Growth rate

. Qty. Growthrate

% Share Qty. Growthrate

% Share Qty. Growthrate

% Share . .

1995-1996 18900 12% 60% 4024 13% 13% 8536 14% 27% 31460 12%

1996-1997 19841 5% 58% 4888 21% 14% 9569 12% 28% 34298 9%

1997-1998 19992 1% 54% 5751 18% 16% 11153 17% 30% 36896 8%

1998-1999 17949 -10% 50% 5699 -1% 16% 11896 7% 33% 35543 -4%

1999-2000 18989 6% 49% 5913 4% 15% 13724 15% 36% 38626 9%

2000-2001 19627 3% 49% 6348 7% 16% 14358 5% 36% 40333 4%

2001-2002 19769 1% 48% 6288 -1% 15% 15334 7% 37% 41390 3%

2002-2003 19296 -2% 47% 5877 -7% 14% 16289 6% 39% 41462 0%

2003-2004 18062 -6% 43% 6078 3% 14% 17970 10% 43% 42109 2%

2004-2005 20578 14% 46% 6025 -1% 13% 18388 2% 41% 44991 7%

2004-2005(Apr-June)

4653 8% 43% 1512 10% 14% 4543 23% 42% 10708 14%

2005-2006

(Apr-June)

5647 21% 48% 1496 -1% 13% 4525 0% 39% 11668 9%

Note: Growth Rate is calculated w.r.t. same period last yearData Source: O/o Textile Commissioner, Mumbai


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India: Financial Year-wise, Sector-wise Production of Cloth

(Qty. in Million Sq. Mtrs.)

FinancialYear

Mill Sector Handloom Sector Power loom Sector Hosiery SectorTotalQty.

Growthrate

. Qty.Growthrate

%Share

Qty.Growthrate

%Share

Qty.Growthrate

%Share

Qty.Growthrate

%Share

. .

1995-1996 2019 13% 6% 7202 17% 23% 17201 6% 55% 5038 34% 16% 31460 12%

1996-1997 1957 -3% 6% 7457 4% 22% 19351 12% 56% 5533 10% 16% 34298 9%

1997-1998 1948 0% 5% 7604 2% 21% 20951 8% 57% 6393 16% 17% 36896 8%

1998-1999 1785 -8% 5% 6792 -11% 19% 20689 -1% 58% 6276 -2% 18% 35543 -4%

1999-2000 1714 -4% 4% 7353 8% 19% 23187 12% 60% 6373 2% 17% 38626 9%

2000-2001 1670 -3% 4% 7472 2% 19% 24503 6% 61% 6688 5% 17% 40333 4%

2001-2002 1546 -7% 4% 7585 2% 18% 25192 3% 61% 7068 6% 17% 41390 3%

2002-2003 1496 -3% 4% 5989 -21% 14% 26109 4% 63% 7868 11% 19% 41462 0%

2003-2004 1433 -4% 3% 5581 -7% 13% 27258 4% 65% 7837 0% 19% 42109 2%

2004-2005 1493 4% 3% 5705 2% 13% 28704 5% 64% 9089 16% 20% 44991 7%

2004-2005(Apr-June)

360 2% 3% 1276 -1% 12% 7037 21% 66% 2035 6% 19% 10708 14%

2005-2006(Apr-June)

339 -6% 3% 1504 18% 13% 7313 4% 63% 2511 23% 22% 11668 9%

Note: Growth Rate is calculated w.r.t. same period last yearData Source: O/o Textile Commissioner, Mumbai


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TotalTotalMade-UpsFabricYear

Export trend of Cotton Handloom Fabrics & Made-ups

Annexure 2:

Trend in value of export of Cotton Handloom Fabrics



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40 2346 5446 0543 1440 06L i

12.1417.5330.4019.0016.63RMHK @

2002-032001-022000-011999-001998 -99Product Name Group

(Value in Rs. Crores)Fabrics

Value Of Exports Over 5 years


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Trend in value of export of cotton handloom Made-ups

102.6882.1262.9734.7431.88Other made-ups

65.6153.9757.3133.3624.85Clothing Accessories

940.71761.22830.10764.24752.91Other Furnishing Articles

116.37106.39104.0479.0265.43Curtains

173.67211.01211.93204.11200.07Bedcovers/Bedspreads

43.5736.4936.798.896.60Toilet & Kitchen linen

47.1936.4930.798.199.91Table linen

39.5120.146.285.573.34Bed linen

(Value in Rs. Crores)Made-Ups

Value Of Exports Over 5 years


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Continent wise export of Cotton Handlooms during 2002-03

443.79340.51369.46316.21315.74Asia

( Rs. in Crores )

2002 - 032001 - 022000 - 011999 - 001998 -99

Continent


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Product group wise composition of cotton handloom exports basket 2002-03


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47

Annexure 3:

Annexure 8:

Current Cluster Map of Barpalli Ikat Weaving Cluster

WSC,

BBSR

ADT,

BargarhTextiles

Committee

Inst. Of Coop.

Management,

Bargarh

Institute Of

Textile

Technology,

Choudwar

BOYANIKA

Export

Promotion

Councils

KAS

FoundationLocal

NGO

SBISDCCBBAGB Andhra

Bank

Yarn, dyes & chemical suppliers

Local Traders 5 Traders from Bargarh 5

NHDC

Behera Market

S. B.

Loom

Accessories

Suppliers (5)

Designing &

Dyeing Service

Providers(11)

Loom

Repairers (3)

Barpalli Town 250 Looms

SHGs 2MWs 5

PWCS - 3

Tie & Dyer - 70

S. B. - 45

NA-10

Bandhpali 250 Looms

SHGs 6MW 1

Tie & Dyer - 20

Formal Micro-credit

Committee

Jalpalli 200 looms

MW- 4

Tie & Dyer - 10

Local

Traders(15-20)

Local Shops

(10)

Local Haat

Behera

Market

S.B.

MWsNW

National Market

Baghbadi 120 Loms

9 SHGs

BAGB- BOLANGIR ANCHALIK GRAMYA BANK, SDCCB - SAMBALPUR DISTRICT CENTRAL CO-OPERATIVE BANK, SBI - STATE BANK OF INDIA, SB -SAMBALPURI BASTRALAYA, WSC - WEAVERS SERVICE CENTRE, ADT - ASSISTANT DIRECTOR OF TEXTILE, NHDC - NATIONAL HANDLOOM DEVELOPMENTCORPORATION, SHG- SELF HELP GROUP, MW- MASTER WEAVER, PWCS- PRIMARY WEAVERS CO -OPERATIVE SOCIETY


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Annexure 6:

List of Holidays in Weavers Community of Barpali Cluster

S. No. Event No. ofDays

Month

1 Paush Purnima 2 January

2 Dola Purnima & Holi 2 March

3 Sabitri Brata 1 May

4 Seetal Sasthi 7 March

5 Rath Yatra 1 June

6 Bahuda Yatra 1 July

7 Ganesh Puja 2 August

8 Nua Khai 2 August9 Biswakarma Puja 1 September

10 Dassera 5 October

11 Diwali 2 November

12 Ras Purnima 3 December

13 Margasira Purnima 1 December

14 Weekly Laxmi puja inMargasira Month

4 December

TOTAL 34


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Annexure 8:

Table1: DETAILS OF MASTER WEAVERS

Villages Name of the MasterWeaver

No.oflooms

Loomsworkingin thecluster

Type oflooms/attachments

Own accessories Loom wiseProduction

Variety of production

Jalpali 1. Sriram Meher2. Ashwini Meher*3. Gobinda Meher4. Keshab Meher5. Biraji Meher6. Sullabha Meher*7. Mohilal Meher*8. Mahendra Meher*9. Nrupamani Meher*10. Kirtana Meher11. Chulamani Meher*12. Udhaba Meher13. Kailash Meher14. Suresh Meher15. Suman Meher16. Mahadev Meher17. Netrananda Meher*18. Sukru Meher19. Shasi Meher

1510551525707513054010121286201010

2351-215726-4----22

Pit/dobbyPit/dobby-do--do-plainpit/dobby-do-,plain-35-do-,plain-20-do-,plain-65pit/dobby-do-plainpit/dobby-do-,plain-7pit/dobby-do-pit/dobby-5pit/dobbypit

Dobby-15Dobby-10Dobby-3Dobby-5--Dobby-15Dobby-25Dobby-40Dobby-5Dobby-20Dobby-5Dobby-3Dobby-7-Dobby-3Dobby-5Dobby-5-

Sari-12, dress-3Sari-7, dress-3Sari-5Sari-5Sari-5Sari-20, dress-5Sari-70Sari-75Sari-130Sari-5Sari-40Dress-10Sari-12Sari-12Sari-8Sari-6Than-15, Sari-5Sari-10Than Sari-10

120s/120s fine cottonsari,120s / 100s,100s / 80smedium cotton sari, 120s/120s, 120s/ 100s,120s/80s, 100s/80s salwar,100s/100s, 80s/80s,60s/32s cotton pant anddopattas are produced

TOTAL 488 42


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Barpali 1. Khetramohan Meher2. Bhagwan Meher3. Sripati Meher

4. Bhikari Meher5. Milan Meher6. Chanchal Meher7. Sukadev Meher8. Kailash Meher9. Iswar Meher10. Chaluram Meher11. Dolamani Meher15. Tarachand Meher16. Surendra Meher17. Dayalu Meher

201045

51010551010553030

1045

5-52246251010

Pit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/Dobby

Pit/DobbyPitPit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/DobbyPit/Dobby

Dobby-10Dobby-5-

Dobby-3----------

Sari, DressSari, DressDress

Sari, DressTassar Than, dressSari, DressSari, DressSari, DressSari, DressSari, DressSari, DressSariStoles, Sari, DressStoles, Sari, Dress

Wide ranges of tie & dyedsaris, stoles, dressmaterials are produced

200 70

Bandhpali

1. Dibya Meher 200 10 Pit/Dobby Dobby-30 Sari-5, dress-195 Mostly dresses and collegeuniforms are produced

Jalpali 1. Dharmali Meher2. Santosh Meher3. Ram Chandra Meher4. Radhakanta Meher

581010

581010

GRAND TOTAL 921 155

N.B. * indicates master weavers possessing no looms in their house hold

Table 2: List of National / State Awardees

Villages Name of the AwardeesBarpali Padmashree Kunja Bihari

MeherSurendra MeherDayalu MeherSmt. Swarnalata MeherBhagwan Meher

Khetramohan Meher

Phagun MeherSukadev MeherSesadev MeherDahita Luha

Jalpali Gobinda Meher

Diagnostic Study Report on Barpalli Weaving Cluster

Documents

Transcript of Diagnostic Study Report on Barpalli Weaving Cluster