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Designer MadridA l i t t le over a decade ago, Chueca was one of theci ty 's most run-down neighborhoods; now i t 's oneof the most fashionable. By Geraldine Campbel l

match. The menu is stocked with

traditional dishes such as jam6nibirico,

a ham made from the acorn-fed pigs of

Andalusia. The Chueca outpost is ne)d

door to the Mercado de Fuencarral, a

mall with three levels of funky tees and

vintage jewelry. F uencarral 43, 011- 34 I 91-

5 3 1 - 687 7, tap as from $ 4.,r l,r A former hangout for Ava Gardnerand Grace I(elly, Museo Chicote has

been in business since 1931 and

famously stayed open through the

Spanish Civil War. Today, it's one ofMadrid's top cocktail bars, with wood

paneling, green leather chairs, and wallslined with photos of its celebrity clien-tele. Gran Vio 12, 011-341 91-532-6737,

museo-chicote.com, cocktails from $ 1 1.

,;rr") The newest addition to the Room

Mate Hotel brand is Oscar, which

opened this fall. Interior designerTomis Alia is behind the avant-garde

look, with rooms that range from the

relatively tame (except for the eroticwallpaper) to the futuristic (one resem-

bles the inside of a lava lamp). Plozo

Vdzquez de MeIIa 12, 011-34 I 91- 548-8 548,room-matehotels.com, from $ i 1 6.

,.:r., MadrileRas flock to H.A.N.D.-Have

a Nice Day for their French fashion fix.

Owners Thierry Bonaf6 and Stephane

Tremoulet travel to Paris every three

5Z bUOget t ravel

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1"r.{s$i".,,s$*;:;:ii,AF^$s iff- :*:\ngg;',r,* , *h**i""-F _r'uuoo,cHr:F*t i.rgfli,.

,q - gi*t["

$,$*;ql*F#;E***r..$*3fr;.kii;!s""ipi'',,**rn ri!#,,'

weeks to stock up on feminine skirtsand blouses with poufed sleeves and . Fundaci6n Patrimonio Comunal

floral motifs by Stella Forest, Paul & Joe, Olivarero sells more than 200 brands of

and Les Petites, among other designers. Spanish olive oils. Olive oil is classifiedHortaleza 26,011-34191-521-5152. by olive variety-at last count, there

were 262-and region; most are,r;ir By day, the small marble

tables at Mama In6s Caf6 are

populated by locals who sip

cafi con leche while talkingintensely or reading the free

newspapers and magazines.

By night, the long and

narow room-with a maroon

ceiling, avocado walls, and

lots of exposed brick-

attracts passersby from

outside the neighborhood,

who stop in for uno copa de

uino after a day of shopping.Hortaleza 22, 0 11- 3 4 I 91- 5 23-

2333, mamarnes.com.

ffi A popular chain of tapas

bars, Lateral is modern and

upscale without the prices to

B udg etTravel .com

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Here's your chance! Go toBudgetTravel.corn/1 O.

WHERE

produced in Andalusia. The L'Estornell

Quincentenary, made from arbequina

olives grown on 500-year-old trees, is

one of the store's most exquisite olive

oils ($52 for one liter). Mejia Lequerica 1,

011- 34 I 91-308- 0 505, pco.es

' cacao Sampaka is a high-end

chocolate shop with an assortment of

both traditional flavors-hazelnut. milk

chocolate, raspberry-and more off-the-

wall innovations, such as black olive.

There's also a caf6 in the back. Orell.ana

4, 0 1 1 - 3 4 | 9 1 - 3 1 9- 5840, cacaosamp aka.com,

box of 16 chocolates from $12.

i ri r In summer, you can smell the sweetaroma of La Abeja Egipcia from a block

away. The shop specializes in products

derived from bees, including more than

30 variet ies ofhoney. Owner Eva

Gonzilez Cobos can explain the medici-

nal properties of her honeys, like one

with rosemary for clearing up colds.

Fernand.o VI 8, 011-341 91-319-6170,Laabeia

egip cia.com, honey from $ 6.

'.lt'l 1}r" whimsical ballerina flats and

kitten heels on display at M6nica Garcia

incorporate bows, tufts of fur, and floral

motifs. The t iny store is easy to miss-

down a set of stairs on the northern side

of Piamonte-but worth seeking out.

Piamonte 19, 011-34 I 9 1-319-9069, monica-

garcia.com, from $i90.

'1,-:, !usinessmen and fashionistas lil<e

Kikuyu for its light Mediterranean fare

and minimalist interior, including black

slate floors and blond wood chairs. The

queso de cabra (goat cheese) is served with

a pile of caramelized onions, atop peas-

ant bread; it's a massive dish that is

easily shared by a table of four. The

inventive entr6es include a paella made

with black rice, shrimp, and baby squid.

Bdrbara de Braganza 4, 011-34 | 91- 379-6611,

kikuyu.es, entries from $ 77. a

November 2O07 Budget Travel 33

Where architecture is clear

discover FINTASTIC varietyWith over 500 hectares of birch forest per Finn. it's small wonder that space and natureplay a major part in every new building created in Finland. When you add that unique

Finnish affinity with modern design and easy sophistication, you have a country where the

old and the new not only live in harmony, but make music together.

For additional information about travel to Finland, a

ffixr#ffi?rffi3n Tr,"ffi

Life's great journeysbegin with a single book.