Design Rsearch: Elsa Schiaparelli

7/30/2019 Design Rsearch: Elsa Schiaparelli

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Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli was an Italian fashion designer in 1890 and died1973. Schiaparelli fame came during the two world wars and is

considered one of the most prominent designers during thatperiod.

Schiaparelli fashion career began in France in 1922, after movingthere from a brief stint in London in 1913, where she marriedCount William Der Wendt 1914 and travelling to New York in 1919where their daughter Gogo is born (1920), after which she divorcesthe Count soon after. It was here where she came into contact withthe protagonists of the acclaimed Dadaist avant-garde movement

who had crossed the Atlantic. These including Man Ray, Baron deMeyer, Edward Steichen, Alfred Stieglitz and Marcel Duchamp,artist all of which will greatly influence her fashion. It was from thismeeting that later she would be invited to move to France by thewife of artist Francis Picabia.

It was during her time in France, whilst working for an antiquesdealer during the day and moonlighting with the Frenchintelligentsias at the restaurant Boeuf Sur Le Toit. From here she

was invited to visit a fashion workshop of Paul Poiret. After herencounter with the designer, Schiaparelli found herself inspired tocreate her own designs, with colour and embroidery being keyaspects of design homage to Poiret.

Schiaparelli was heavily influenced by the cotemporary surrealistartist of the time; her interaction with the Dadaist movement gaveher an insight into the powerful imagery that was being created.

Artist from the movement such as Man Ray and Duchampinfluenced her designs and artist from the surrealist such asSalvador Dali begin to work with her and her designs.

During my research into creature artwork for my designs I cameacross a dress designed by Schiaparelli and Dali (shown below).The skeletal dress, shown below reminded me of the artwork byHR Giger, the external skeletal structure, which created a sense ofvulnerability and internal strength, were also key aspects in thisdress design.


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For the character of the Doctor I wanted her to be an older womenof late 30s early 40s have a slender physique coupled with adistinctive internal strength. Her background is that she already aProfessor of genetics lost her child to an inherent genetic disease,

and that she in turn has devoted her purpose to creating orrecreating human gene to in her eyes a more perfect creation,riding genetic abnormalities and human traits that are unkind. Herinternal strength and vulnerability I want to be reflected in herdress sense, and design, there is also a sense of aggression inSchiaparellis work that also comes out in the character in regardsto the protection of her creations and her work. Also want herdress wear to reflect the creations she has made, to her in hermind reflect her children, things she has created and brought into

the world. The combination of slender and use of animals inSchiaparellis work, as well as her use of surrealism and imagery,would enhance the attributes of this character.

Skeleton Dress

lisathatcher.wordpress.com


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... layers of fabric, then cotton wadding inserted through the back to bring ...

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This is the skeletal dress designed by Schiaparelli and Dali, theclosely resemble the designs by Giger for the alien creature for

Alien. As previously noted it the style and characteristic that comefrom the design that I want mirrored in the character of the doctorand the cloths she wears.


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Schiaparelli has inspired designers such as Prada

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The above right design is inspired designs by Prada that are influenced bySchiaparellis design (Above left). The use of the use of animal feathers andthe skeletal style again used in Schiaparellis would be good signifiers for thecharacter, in more relaxed evening setting where the doctor can wear lessprofessional clothing, I like the use of the animal feather, and feel that thisoutfit or variant would represent her connection with the creatures she hascreated, the cross between animal and man.


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Coat, 1937 (rayon,silk & gilded metallic thread embroidery) by Elsa ...

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Image in copyright

collections.vam.ac.uk

I like the design of the above two dresses, I feel they suit hercharacter, and also feel they present a futuristic feel to the shape.


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Surrealism. In the 1920's thecultural movement of surrealism became ...

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This outfit, with a few modifications I feel would make a goodarchetype for the doctors laboratory coat. This quite foreboding

style, I feel would represent her control and dominance whilstbeing in the lab. The lab being her playground and wear she feels


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most comfortable and in control, this outfit would accommodatethis.

The look and feel for the doctor will need to be expressed in her

style of clothing, chic, sensual, with inner strength and aggression,Schiaparellis design contain all element of this, and would be astark contrast to the clothing of the Lt. Colonel Aketchi and

Ambassador Pandemonium.

Bibliography;

http://www.schiaparelli.com/en/history.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparelli

Final Designs for Character

This design incorporates the feather design that later influencedPrada as well as the skeletal dress by Schiaparelli and Dali.
http://www.schiaparelli.com/en/history.htmlhttp://www.schiaparelli.com/en/history.htmlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparellihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparellihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparellihttp://www.schiaparelli.com/en/history.html


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Taken fro Schiaparellis long dress designs.


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Starting concept for the skeletaldress. This was a key design to get right as it most reflects thecharacter personality.

Further refinements.


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Shot from rear.


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Final refined views.


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Design Rsearch: Elsa Schiaparelli

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