An educational development of an English school boy, with and expressive and rebellious mind

Philip E Griffiths

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ContentsAbstract

Introduction

Concept

Rationale

Colour

Market Level

Competitors

Consumer Profile

Product Review

Timescale

SWOT

Conclusion

Bibliography Appendix

An Educational Develpoment of an English school boy, with an expressive and rebellious mind

Discipline within the school environment has changed since the early 1900s although the early learning stages of school life begin the same for most, with the initial stages of ABC, primary colours, secondary colours and geometric shapes. Imagination and creativity of the mind in the school playground, is where students are able to find their own minds and characteristics. The collection will express the defined english school boy uniform as well as expressive minds and the rebellious side of youth within childrens pschology and distress of children post WWII.‘You send your child to the schoolmaster but ‘tis the schoolboys who educate him. You send him to the latin class, but much of his tuition comes, on his way to school, from the shop windows.’ Emerson: Conduct of Life, CultureThe overall feel of the collection should cater for the Gentleman with an esquire taste of contemporary finishes. The Garments will define the development of school life through to final graduation days.

Abstract

Abstract

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Looking at the progression and learning curves of school life to gradu-ation, with the initial learnings in school and the creativity of youths mind and the pschology of finding their own mind. The report will begin with the initial research of looking at early learning processes, and uniform of the 1900s. With the impression of mind and pschol-ogy research will go into theories of the childs mind. Being extremely inspired by the film IF.... Lindsay Anderson, 1968 will show how the initial silhouettes and characteristics of the rebellious side of the collec-tion will be brought through. The collection will be autumn winter 12. The report will go to explain the aspects of tailoring design as well as sporting aspects being influenced by the schoolplayground and competition of school activity. The research will in-volve considering other films such as Submarine 2011, as this has extensive amounts of inspiring footage of school life for all age groups and also show scenes of expression within characters mine.Looking at Damien Hirsts spot paintings 1986 - 2011, is a good grounding to the experi- mentation of loud clashes within the design and colour palettes. This is where I have began looking at primary colours and his spin paintings which can express the youthful mind. Other methods will include exhibitions ‘The Childrens War’ at the Imperial War Museum(2011) and visits to ‘the Childrens Museum’(2011).Traditions of school ties, hats and Robes which are still worn today will contrast the school boy life during early 1900s with todays school, academy and university students and different ethnics within school environment. which will show the individualities in the way uniform is worn today.

Introduction

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Inspiration started with this image the classic school uniform (see fig 4). The mood of the image gave me the initial idea of focusing on the early 1900 english school boy. Uniform was the obvious starting point. The use of school hats in this image is something I am looking to take forward but I want to explore the different characteristics you have within the school environment from the obvious intellect and athlete, to the sub concious minds of childhood which follows through some individuals life and edu-cational development. Uniform is something that has been brought through many peoples lives but each individual wears it in their own way which makes the collective unique.

‘how children of different ages conceive of their own minds and those of others and whether the way that children’s minds develop can be usefully constructed as similar to theory change in science’

Branded for life, uniform is part of many english school boys life. School uniform is now a lot more comfortable than its early 1900s to even early dates of 1700s. Looking at the designs aspects of traditionally conservative uniform and how it was worn by different people.Eton boys still wear elegant tailcoats with black waistcoats, striped trousers and snazzy bow or tape white ties.

Uniform is essentially taking away peoples individuality but at the same time making each other equal within the school environment. This can come from the idea of students from poor families and rich families.

Underwear and night clothes has a tradition dating back to the origin of mankind. In many prep boarding school boys and girls had uniformed pyjamas and underwear. This leads me to look at other types of uniform within school such as Physical Education and gym clothing, which can be brought through in the collection.‘Underwear remained subject to discretion, particularly in the more con-servative schools.’ Davidson.

Rationale

‘A characteristic of adolescence is to want to proclaim individuality through the costume worn; it is a blameless form of existentialism.’ Davidson (1990)

With early learning and developing self disciplines, the idea of devel-opment and learning individuality is brought back when youth begin to customise there uniforms in the way there wear it, this has an effect on the way people think. Children begin to find their won minds between themselves with physical change but with the idea of looking at early learning tools. This may bring through some interesting ideas for pat-tern cutting and design features on the garments.‘Dot to dot books’ and images are a great starting point which may bring through interesting shapes of geometric for design features but having the feeling of a loose minded individual following instruc-tion.

Educational development

Educational development

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Colour psychologyWith emotions and feeling beginning to be explored with the childs mind and physical activity, exploring the psychology of colour in the way it makes people feel and as well the physical effect it has on us within different environments.‘Colour psychology is the study of the effect that colours have on human behaviour particularly the natural instinctive feelings that each colour evokes. Colour preference is subjective however colour psychology reveals how each colour creates a collective emotional, mental and physical response in people as awhole’ (jrscience.wcp.muohio.edu)‘adults will feel happiness toward red and sadness toward blue. It presents the view that color biases are taught to us as children, and therefore there is little difference between the way adults and children view colour.’ Prentice Hall, 2000‘Overall, red made adults feel anger while it made children feel calm. For yellow and blue both adults and children felt the same emo-tions towards the two colours. For yellow they both felt happy and for blue they both felt calm. Children tended to feel more intensely towards colours in general.’(jrscience.wcp.muohio.edu)With this in mind the way it effects children different can be shown in pieces of the clothing bringing through the rebellious side of colours including red which to adults is a symbol of anger, but the effect it has on making children feel calm.

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SeasonSeason Autumn/winter as this would be the start of the school year. I will be looking at the use of heavy knitwear and lay-ers, and goretex. Wool and Nylon trousers, shorts and blazers shows identification within the collection. As well as accessories as school socks and hats. Looking at the school sports teams in English school life such as gymnasium and football. The image of uniformed children walking in the cold grey mornings through the gates into the school playground where the creativity of the youths mind begins to explore and develop. The black and white imagery creates the emotion in both of the pictures and also relate to the British look.SilhouetteBalancing out proportions with straight cut shirts and sweaters, with meeting points at trouser waist, will create the illusion of shirts being tucked in. Ankle swinging trousers, school shorts and tapered trousers, shrunk blazers and knit but made with functional fabrics instead so perhaps using water resistant nylon. Although will look to include more relaxed silhouette with cotton tops and oversized jackets being wide on shoulders andboxed in length complimented with shorter trousers. Layering will be brought through with under garments with high neck t shirts, and thermal bottoms. I want the outfits to look like they have bee worn in the school playground. A consistant detail between gar-ments will create the uniform feel through motif or accessory.

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Colour and fabricsExperimenting with colour palettes of bold reds, blues and yellow, being adapted with traditional school colours within England of bergundy, Navy blues and mustard yellows may create interesting clashes for detailing and accessory pieces as socks and ties. Exploring the pastel colours and autumn colours for this winter collection.Gore-tex co-invented by Wilbert L. Gore, Rowena Taylor, and Gores son Robert W. Gore. This special-ized fabric will be used in different ways other than the obvious of over coats and jackets but maybe used as pullover sweaters with the silhouettes of school jumpers but made to go over the blazer and uniform.Ripstop nylonfabrics are woven fabrics often made out of nylon, using a special reinforcing technique that makes them resistant to tearing and ripping. During weav-ing (thick) reinforcement threads are interwoven at regular intervals in a crosshatch pattern. This can be brought through in bags, jackets and even trousers.

Prada Current collections of prada have been inspiring to the silhouette with proportion of garments, and use of subtle features of design features.

White MountaineeringWhite Mountaineering is a Japanese brand who specialise with goretex fabrics, but use them in experimented ways including print. They also take into consideration contemporary design, which makes them unique to other outdoor brands. The brand is split into 3 categories .“The field in which we wear clothes is all outdoors.” One, design. Two,utility. Three, technology. The imagination to fuse these elements together. The attitude of not submitting to sales or market needs.Wardrobe White Mountaineering’s basic line consisting of standard items that can be a part of everyone’s wardrobe. The line focuses on textiles and sewing techniques while keeping the designs simple. The selected forms remain consistent but are created with new materials each season.BLK proposes a new feel to outdoor wear with high-spec textiles and technology.The line aims for solidity with a single color: black. It releases items with high visual and utilitarian quality, incorporating textiles developed by experts such as GORE-TEX and Schoeller.

Market level/competitors

Lanvin The design aspects of Lanvin creates it a major competi-tor as it has experimented with uniformed styled garments before. The overall feel caters for luxury but is aesthetically pleasing in a contemporary style.

Dunhillcaters to the needs of the discerning man, from formal and casual menswear, in a similar way to how i feel this collec-tion should be. With recent collections designed by previ-ous creative director Kim Jones, hold a aspect of the con-temporary way in the way the garments are worn but still holds the heritage of the classic brand name.

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The customer would be a young man in the age group 18–30, who works in the city. He has an understanding of heritage fash-ion and respects the work of classic pieces. He is very interested in fashion now and timeless pieces that can be worn in different ways. He is likely to read magazines such as Monocle and about Man about Town.The taste of well defined English tailoring and sharply finished outerwear pieces, with an education of fabrics and finishes but has an interest in wearing contemporary garments to compliment classic pieces. the customer will have an interest in fashion, technology and classical pieces. Works in the city. As well as an interest with going to the gym with specialized equipment and fabrics for physical activity

Customer

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MethodsThis research will include and explore a number of different methods including visits to exhi-bitions and having key influences from film and existing public schools.

exhibitions The approach of methods will begin by analysis of the uniform worn within boys schools during 1900s, this will include visiting the exhibition at the Imperial War Museum ‘The Childrens War’, where an understanding for the viewer of what clothing and accessories a child would have had during the distressed days of families this will also begin to give a sense of emotion to the collection types of garments and uniforms young and more mature English boys would have worn. Exploring the different ways of boys of different races and ethnics wore there uniformed clothing and how it made them individual.Childhood museum Visits to the childhood museum will be regular with toys dating back to the early 1900s as well as accessories for youth and school equipment which will be extremely helpful and influence design aspects of the collection.

Artists With the research of early learning products and school days and collaborating with the expressive and imaginative mind of youth I feel studying Damien Hirst bold, ‘Spot Paintings’ 1986 - 2011 and spin paintings will help express and contrast the feel of the collection.

filmIf.... proves to be something of a universal fantasy. An anarchic trio of disgruntled public schoolboys (McDowell, Wood and Warwick) - plus one girlfriend (Noonan) and a younger pupil (Webster) - rebel against their brutal establishment peers, before literally blasting their way through staff and sixth formers. The influence of from the wing collared shirts and clashes of red within the school colours, begins to give a feel to the initial design aspects of the collection.With a lot of mind manipulation and scenes of colour clashes and imagination fits well with the idea of development and the youth beginning to experiment and find their own mind. The film has scenes being shot in black and white as well as colour this was not intentional but was for financial reasons. Even so this has an effect on the viewer where in some scenes show the students within the black and white school environment but when outside of this environment shows the rebellious colours of the students minds coming through where they appear to go off on their own rules and retaliate against school staff and rules.

LiteratureThen beginning to look at the different types of uniform worn by school boys, analysing the different styles from literature such as ‘Blazers, Badges and Boaters’ A Pictorial His-tory of school uniform.’ Alexander Davidson which will give me and understanding of the different finishes and garments which will be able to compliment the outcome of silhouettes used.Early learning books and picture books, looking at dot to dot books and images. These type of books may inspire geometric shapes as a print or within detail of garments/ cutting.Jocks and Nerds, an inspirational book with images of styling uniform, as well as having in-teresting images of sports clothing and under garments worn for Physical activity which can inspire the basics of clothing for the undergarments and indicates the physical and rebellious side of individuals hidden under their uniformed pieces.

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Product

reviewWith the physical activity within the school playground and development of the youths mind, and idea of sportswear being combined with the uniform pieces. Looking at goretex jacket from White Mountaineering.

The opposite jacket from White Mountaineering shows gore tex fabrics being used, which makes the jacket functional with water resistant fibres. In this case the gore tex has been printed. In comparison to this unique design compa-nies such as Stone Island experiment with fibres creating their own fabrics with similar purpose but have also cre-ated fabrics that can react with heat and light.

The price range of this jacket is high it holds design aspects which are unique and are desired by a niche market within the industry.

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SWOTStrengths with a broad knowledge of uniform and fabric research will begin to make the design aspects strong areas of direction.

Weaknesses Wanting to explore new techniques of manufacturing and having accessories being made gives a focal point which will need to be explored and tested. Also using specialized fabrics, licensed manufacturers will be brought in and as this is a focal point and needs to be thought about first, researching different manufacturers is important.

Opportunities Being able to explore a wide variety of tailoring techniques with new specialized fabrics and contrasting comfortable underwear with satorial pieces and variety of accessories, ranging for a wide audience/market.

Threats If specialised fabrics are unable to be used for cost or design reasons, back up fabrics will have to be re-searched so a lot of research within the finishes and fabrics will have to be considered early on within the project.

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ConclusionIn conclusion the exploration of the sub themes being quite broad will have to be narrowed down. After the research methods have been carried out I will be able to concentrate on the ideologies of each theme, being able to bring them through in pieces so the collection holds the aspect of being uniformed. The psychology of colour and the way in which the child’s mind is expressed in a rebellious way of character within the uniformed environment will become the main focus of the collection where as having features from early learning and activities within school will compliment the overall garments with interesting accessories and styling.With the silhouettes being oversized but balanced out in proportions will compliment the idea of children growing up and growing into adults. Having layering within the collection will create the imagery of an old English school boy and should create the sense of feeling that their mind was has lots of physical activity an emotion going on in life. Undergarments will create a basic layer which will give the uniformed pieces a more casual feel with long johns being shown un-der tailored shorts and trousers and with high neck t.shirts also being shown under shirts or even over shirts.The imagery from the Children’s war will begin to give styling ideas for when designing garments and putting pieces together, creating the idea of wanting to show individualities in a uniformed respect. Experimentation of colours will again be shown with psychol-ogy of colour and emotion but also keeping with primary colours being shown in detailing.The AW12 collection will be created to cater for young gentlemen showing sharp cut garments with a specialised aspects of design and fabric selection influenced with the physical activities and imagination of youthful minds.

BibliographyBlazers, Badges and Boaters, Alexander Davidson (1990)

cpcompany.com

Dunhill.com

www.etonschool.com

Fehrman, Dr. Kenneth R., and Cherie Fehrman. Color: The Secret Influence. New Jersey: Prentice Hall, 2000

GQ.com

GQ Cool, Jo Levin

IF.... Lindsay Anderson, 1968

jrscience.wcp.muohio.edu/ jrscience.wcp.muohio.edu/nsfall01/FinalArticles/ColorPsychology.Chil-drenv.html

Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century, Richard Martin

Lanvin.com

Submarine, Richard Ayoade (2010)

stoneisland.com

style.com

whitemountaineering.com

Lanvin.com

Prada.com

stoneisland.com

www.spring.org.uk/2008/07/way-we-were-10-crucial-child-psychology.php

Appendixfig 1 -The childrens war, Imperial war museum (2011)

fig 2 -jjjjound.com (2011)

fig 3 - tumblr(2011)

fig 4 -The childrens war, Imperial war museum (2011)

fig 5 -The childrens war, Imperial war museum (2011)

fig 6 - plentyofcolour.com

fig 7 -GQ cool, Jo Levin

fig 8 -Damien Hirst Spin Paintings

fig 9 - IF.... Lindsay Anderson, 1968

fig 10 - jjjjound.com

fig 11 - the childrens museum (2011)

fig 12 - IF.... Lindsay Anderson, 1968

fig 13 -White Mountaineering Jacket, Hypebeast.com

fig 14 - plentyofcolour.com

fig 15 -Imperial war museum (2011)

fig 16 - tumblr(2011)

fig 17 - ipernity.com