POR T FOL IO

design

Matilde Pacheco.

Matilde Pacheco. Fashion & Textile Designer. Cesar Cortinas 1966 Montevideo, URUGUAY +598.26.01.94.42 / +598.96.44.00.44 matildepacheco@hotmail.com

Academic Formation Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design UK (2007) Textile Design Workshop + Fashion Surgery > Short Courses Universidad ORT Uruguay (2004 2006) Garment Technician Peter Hamers School of Design (2004) Model Creation I y II Anatomical Drawing + Fashion Illustration The British Schools (2001 2003) IBO International Baccalaureate > ART Standard Level Working Experience ATELIER LIVNI ESCUDER (October 2009 - August 2011) Design Assistant www.analivni.com BAF Week Showroom Assistant ENTREVERO Collection Buenos Aires ARGENTINA February 2010 MoWeek MVD Moda Catwalk Assistant HORIZONTES Collection Montevideo URUGUAY April 2010 Teaching Experience Escuela Universitaria Centro de Diseo Industrial www.eucd.edu.uy Print Design Assistant Teacher March 2008 to date

1Roul Roul. March 2012 Fashion Design ContestColours of France and Uruguay French Embassy, Montevideo, Uruguay.

Roul Roul.

Single outfit design project based on the theme Colours of France and Uruguay. Fashion Show - March 2012 at the French Ambassadors Residence.

Linking theme developed Le Tour de France 1903 La Vuelta Ciclista del Uruguay 1939 Introduction France and Uruguay. Fraternal republics of long traditional liaison. Shared and inherited cultures: le tricolore, the arts, literature, cuisine, education, and sport. CYCLING. Le Tour de France and La Vuelta ciclista del Uruguay. Synonyms of challenge, sacrifice and the cult of sport. Both original of the 20th century, Le Tour de France, unique in its species, is distinguished for being the first cycling competition by stages in history, inaugurated in 1903. La Vuelta Ciclista del Uruguay inspired in the French epic, was celebrated for the first time in 1939. Both are classic and emblematic events of the national sport calendar and inexorable manifestations of popular culture. Nowadays they condense tradition transmitted year after year from generation to generation - and modernism, manifest in the incorporation of ultimate technological developments applied to equipment, clothing and accessories. Design Pitch: Fusion outfit inspired in the most distinctive mirror sport competition of these 2 nations: road bicycle racing. Aesthetics taken from both historical extremes, juxtaposed in full print images, hand printed in a duality of techniques: Digital print and silk screen printing. Vintage photographs from the 1900s, antique maps and hand knitted pieces represent history and traditions, confronted to sparkly hyper modern graphics of reticule dots and ultimate generation permeable cycling helmets. Colour Semiotics Yellow the emblematic colour of the Tour. Powerful protagonist, it speaks us about le Maillot Jaune, the blooming sunflowers fields of July and the radiant Uruguayan sun. Sky Blue Celeste a bound complement to our leading star, allegorical colour par excellence of the Uruguayan Republic, it conveys vitality, purity and freshness. Gray taken from the asphalt winding roads, tires and vintage pictures. Key ingredient to a harmonic colour pallet. Blue Rabid representative of the French republic, it conveys strength and serenity. The classical colour of sport, applied with glittering sparkles, tunefully balancing the global outfit.

Research.

Justaucorps Routier

Jambire Peloton and Cache-col Cycle

Pilot Vlo

Justaucorps Routier: spandex catsuit. Postmodern garment type, officiates as a second skin. It evokes the technological performance of the modern sport, full printed with images of retro cyclists from the beginnings of century, as well as antique maps and sunflowers. Jambire Peloton and Cache-col Cycle: Hand knitted neck and leg warmers that speak of traditional garment types and the millenary custom of two needle knitting. Pilot Vlo: Classic type raincoat, treated at a graphic level with futuristic images of modern porous safety helmets.Model: La Hannay Photography: Javier Kowalski Make-up: Evelyn Contreras General Styling: Matilde Pacheco

2Sea Pendants. January 2012 Hand knitted earrings

Sea Pendants.Seashell forms & Seashell resonance

Have you ever held a seashell to your ear and listened to the sound of the ocean?

Inspiration: Scallops, Molluscs, Nautilus, Cowries Key design elements: Spiralled Whorled Coiled Striped Ridged Layered Grooved Beautiful sea forms translated and reinterpreted into the knitting language, obtaining light, warm and lively earrings. Different designs created by playfully mixing yarns, stitches and colours. Local traditions speaking to your ear, communicating national identity. Made from leftover wool yarns of past projects and collections. Sustainable design approach: 1. Reclaim & Reuse of waste materials 2. Traditional local artisans work and craftsmanship. Uruguayan wool: National textile fiber par excellence. Uruguay is the third wool producing-exporter country in the world. Sheep population in Uruguay (10 million) is the second largest in Latin America. The Spanish settlers introduced the sheep in Uruguay in the 17th century. Since then, our country has developed its own sheep production culture which has been the basic pillar of our economy for decades. Our sheep products are mainly for export to different countries in the world.Model: Evelyn Contreras Photography: Matilde Pacheco

Facts to know: Wool is a protein fibre with unique physical properties. Due to its hollow structure it supports the retention and transmission of heat. Its microscopic scaly cell structure gives it the ability to become matted into felt, a solid fabric with many useful properties. Wool can absorb large quantities of water, without making the wearer feel cold or wet. It enhances comfort in significant changes of temperature. Wool fibres are highly flexible and versatile, enabling wool to be used in many applications depending on quality: from clothing and furnishing to industrial uses. By comparison to other fibres, wool is a true green fibre: Natural, Renewable, Sustainable, Biodegradable.

3Scrap it!. December 2011 Crafty Sketcbook.

Scrap it! Sustainable design approach: UPCYCLE. Design using waste materials to make a product of equal or higher quality.

Piles of discarded and unwanted paper, cardboards and plastics - flyers packages old catalogues recites magazine paper newspapers sketches etc - were cut into 3 standardized sizes. (((30x30))) (((21x21))) (((12x12))). After a light classification different thematic sketchbooks were put together. Made of an array of eclectic papers, each leaf turn presents itself as a surprise. The product is meant for an intimate interaction with the user. Playfully cut, paste, scrap, draw, paint, sew and staple on and with the sketchbook. Creatio stimulus!Photography: Matilde Pacheco

4Noctilucas. September 2011 Commissioned print design for a wedding dress fabric.

Noctilucas 6mts of full hand printed fabric were produced for the dressmaking of this piece. Silkscreen Fabric: Stretch Tulle. Ink: White Plastisol Textile Ink.

Noctilucas are bioluminescent unicellular marine microorganisms. Happy dwellers of Uruguayan coastal waters, large blooms can occasionally be seen as flickering lights in the ocean. These very particular creatures have been the source of countless myths and legends all along the Uruguayan coast due to their beautiful, almost magical nocturnal appearances.

Photography: Diego Batistte

Design Process. The graphic design obtained was a result of research and experimentation with the mono-printing technique. Using a plastic surface and walnut stain ink, spherical shapes were experimented in search of an interpretation of the noctilucas microscopic view, which were then transferred on Canson type paper. The repellent effect that plastic generates on water favoured in the result of water specs, highly related to the inspiration. An array of hand painted circular shapes was produced, scanned and computer manipulated. The choice of fabric and ink was aimed to obtain a delicate lace bright/opaque surface effect.

Photography: Luciano Rosano - LR Producciones

5Horizontes Collection. April 2011 MoWeek Montevideo Fashion Week Presentation Assistant Designer at Ana Livni.

Horizontes Collection. Montevideo is a privileged city due to its horizons. The light rises and gradually disappears, generating a wide variety of shaded tones and gradients.

We apply these concepts to Uruguays most sustainable material: Merino Wool, in the forms of felts and knits hand dyed with diverse resist colour bath techniques (kettle-dyed). We contemplate slow migratory movements, reaching our natural port in ships from different distant places, bringing and establishing their roots on our soils. Migrants not only bring bodies and souls. Each individual brings his own personal story creating and constructing the identity of a country. Different cultures and ethnics come together, blend, intercross and keep changing in time. These concepts are developed and interpreted through images of water, ropes and knots as connections between different horizons, cultures, peoples, cities, histories and memories. The design prints where made with sand, which moves, transforms, and assumes different forms.

Photography: Pazos - Landarin Design: ANA LIVNI - FERNANDO ESCUDER Design Assistant: Matilde Pacheco Design Internship: Helena Luiza Kussik (moda UDESC - Santa Catarina, Brasil) Communication Internship: Linda Mazzanti (FBR - Miln, Italia).

Engaged Tasks: Research, Design, Production, and Styling. Special participation in the knit design collection. Photography: Matilde Pacheco

6Kaleidoscopio. April 2010 Assistant Designer at Ana LivniREclaim and REuse of textile waste materials

Kaleidoscope: A constantly changing pattern or sequence.

Problem: High quality felt production remainders and remnants discarded without a use. Solution: Transformation of such leftovers into standardized forms simple to connect and sew. Piles of different colour felt remnants, were classified, grouped and cut into standardized circles using a customized circular die cutting tool. A minimum repeatable unit was obtained with which to construct porous, flexible and versatile garments. A systematic and industrialized system was conceived in order to sew the circles in continuous strips in random colour sequences which were then used to design 4 different garments: Shawl Poncho Vest Dress.Photography: Pazos - Landarin Design: ANA LIVNI - FERNANDO ESCUDER Design Assistant: Matilde Pacheco Design Internship: Helena Luiza Kussik (moda UDESC - Santa Catarina, Brasil) Communication Internship: Linda Mazzanti (FBR - Miln, Italia).

Photography: Matilde Pacheco

7Filamenti. September 2009 Assistant Designer at Ana Livni Print design for a wedding gown

Filamenti. Print design for a wedding gown. Screen-printing. Fabric: Knitted silk thread. Ink: White Plastisol Textile Ink > Overtone effect.

A Single motif pattern was created directly on the exposing table using the found object technique. Black threads were carefully pulled out from a leftover piece of woollen cloth and used for the design. The threads which retained a wavy pattern due to wools memory properties, were carefully set out over the glass in delicate bunches. The graceful swaying contributed to a wavy rhythm, which came together harmonically with the delicate dress design.

Photography: CARAS Magazine Year XX N1457 9/12/2009

8CSM Textile Design Workshop. April 2007 Short Course Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design Textile development on cloth

CSM Textile Design Workshop.

Techniques learnt and experimented: Pipette hand painting on silk and cotton fabrics, using acid and discharge dyes + steam fixing. Silk and cotton fabrics resist dying techniques: Acid and Direct Dyes. Transfer printing with disperse dyes: Sublimation on polyester fabric using the heat press. Paper experimentation: hand painting, dripping, cutting and masking. Carbon photocopy technique. Devor: fibre removal form mixed fibre fabric + cross dying with acid and direct dyes. Photography: Matilde Pacheco

9Aquatic Men - We come from the sea. December 2006 2nd year Fashion Design School - ORT University Menswear Design Collection

Aquatic Men We come from the sea.

12 piece design collection for the contemporary Uruguayan male consumer inspired in the work of an international plastic artist of our choice. Selected Artist: Dale Chihuly. Skills Developed: Research Local market analysis Consumers interviews Mood and storyboard construction Definition of colour, form and texture pallets Sketching Collection development.

1 0Violence! 21st century issue. June 2006 2nd year Fashion Design School - ORT University 3 outfit experimental collection inspired in a 21st century issue

21st century issue VIOLENCE

Key elements: Bruise Stitch Flesh Tissue Blood-drop Design Methodology: Research > Collage > Concepts > Key elements >Textures > Garment design > Garment constructionPhotography: Matilde Pacheco