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Denim by weave

Weave is the method or

process of interlacing

two yarn or similar

material so that they

cross  each other at

right angle to produce

woven fabric .

In subsequent slides we

present various types of

weaves used in denim

fabric.

Traditional Denim weave

Traditionally, denim

fabric is 3/1 warp-faced

twill fabric made from a

yarn-dyed warp and an

undyed weft yarn and

the warp yarn is indigo-

dyed. Over the years,

many different denim

fabric weaves have been

used, including Dobby,

Jacquard, cross

hatch depending upon

the performance,

appearance and feel

requirement of end

product.

Three by one weave

3x1 weave refers to the number of weft

threads per warp thread, in which three

threads cross every one (hence, 3×1

weave).Denims that have heavier weights

(over 10.5 Oz / square yard) are 3×1

weaves, especially compared to denim

with a 2×1 weave (under 10.5 Oz /square

yard).

LHT-Left hand Twill

Left Hand Twill weave runs diagonally

from right to left, which produces denim

that is a bit softer than RHT. Left hand

twill are also more desirable due to the

strength and durability. Right hand twills

have the tendency to stretch out and stay

baggy until washed. However washing in

a sense resets the fabric.

Two types of twill weave in Denim

RHT -Right Hand Twill 

RHT refers to the direction in which

denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand

twill, this weave is much more common,

as almost all jeans are woven with right

hand twill. The weft (filler) threads is

visible in upward-right diagonal lines on

right-hand twill jeans. This type of twill

weave runs diagonally from left to right,

which produces flatter and smoother

denim. 

One by one Chambray Denim

Chambray is a plain (1 x 1 weave) woven

denim fabric often woven in checkered or

striped patterns.

Application-Chambray Denim

It is usually made from

blue and white yarns

and used to make shirts,

dresses and children’s

clothing

Two by one weave

2x1 Weave refers to the number of weft

threads per warp thread. Most denims

have been traditionally 3x1 weaves,

though lighter weight denims (under10.5

ounces/square yard) often use the 2x1

configuration.

Satin Denim

  Satin is a basic weave construction

with the interlacing of the threads so

arranged that the face of the cloth is

covered with warp yarn or filling yarn

and no twill line is distinguishable. The

satin weave denim is distinguished by

its lustrous, or 'silky', appearance.

Broken Twill Denim weave

In Broken twill denim Instead of the twill

running left or right, broken twill contains

no distinct direction and instead

alternates right and left the end

effect resembles a random zig-zag pattern.

 

Did you know?

Broken twill is bit

streaky and hairy but

has a soft hand feeling &

likable structure and is

selected if same is

desired in finish

product

Chinoo denim

Chinoo is tightly woven 2 ply right hand

3×1 combed cotton twill fabric. Chinoo is

high in demand and featured in upcoming

season by renowned fashion houses

Cross hatch Denim

Cross hatch is a unique type of denim that

shows a square grid-like pattern in the

weave. It is created by mixing uneven

yarns in both the weft and a warp

direction. It is a more rare type of denim

and develops a unique crisscrossed

pattern as it fades and is available in

below mentioned combination of weight,

width, colors etc

Dobby Denim

Dobby is a weaving method in which

the warp threads are raised and

lowered throughout the weaving

process to form small geometric

figures. Dobby denim fabrics are used

mainly for high fashion garments, top

wear and home décor and are

distinguishable by their unique

textures.

Did you know?

Dobby denim fabric is

also used many a times

for appliqué work on

garment to enhance

fashion appeal of base

garment.

Denim Fabric - Herringbone weave

Herringbone weave, also known as

“chevron weave”, has a distinctive V

shaped pattern that resembles a herring’s

skeleton.

Herringbone weave on denim garments

Though generally used

in wool fabrics,

especially tweed,

Herringbone denim is

in trend and used for

various apparel and

non apparel

application.

Jacquard Denim

With jacquard any combination of weaves

and pattern is possible since each warp is

individually controlled with each pick

passage. Due to its attractive and

decorative appeal it is used in high

fashion garments as well as furnishing

and upholstery.

Matt weave

The simplest of all patterns is the plain

weave. Each

weft yarn goes alternately over and under

one warp

yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over

and

under each weft yarn.

Matt Weave or Basket weave: here, two

or more

yarns are used in both the warp and filling

direction. These groups of yarns are woven

as one,

producing a basket effect.

Matt Weave Denim

While traditionally made

of cotton,

today’s oxford cloth is

also frequently made of

a synthetic blend. It is a

sturdy, comfortable

fabric and is relatively

inexpensive to

manufacture.

 

Selvedge DenimInitially known as ‘self-edge’,

the selvedge is the narrow, tightly

woven band on both edges of

the denim fabric. A selvedge end

prevents the edge of the denim from

unraveling and shows a clean,

finished look. Selvedge color varies

with the brand and producer.

Selvedge denim are made out of

denim woven on an old-style shuttle

loom with a continuous weft and a

narrow width (usually around thirty

inches).Today, selvage denim is

valued for its irregularities and

character, and is typically more

expensive than regular denim. 

 

Application –Selvedge Denim

Selvedges in jeans

usually denote high

quality denim, albeit

there are many factors

to consider with denim

quality.