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demystifying finishing for guysWhat to do if he thinks mousse is just a girly dessert.The same guy who wields a glue gun, a hockey stick or a corkscrew with massive confidence can become completely undone when faced with a styling product and a hairbrush. The fact is, anything beyond vigorous rubbing with a towel after the shower is a styling mystery to many men. But, says Thom, a little instruction and a few seconds of effort each morning can make a huge difference between grungy and well-groomed.

the classic

finish (George Clooney, Matt Damon, those adorable Ralph Lauren models)After shampooing, Thom applies a light holding product like mousse to damp strands, parts the hair and then lets it dry completely. “This ‘sets’ the hair,” he explains, “and controls the texture.” Next, he breaks up strands with a brush or with his hands and adds a dab of pomade for shine and unfussy texture. “Pomades and styling crèmes are my go-to products for guys,” he comments, “because the hair remains touchable rather than stiff or crunchy.”

the curly/wavy/

frizzy finish

(Ryan Philippe, Adrian Grenier, Nick Jonas)Curly hair is thirsty hair so moisture is critical. Start with a cocktail of leave-in conditioner and hair crème and apply to damp hair. (If hair is super-dry and frizzy, add a few drops of styling oil to the mix. “Every curly texture is different,” Thom comments, “so you have to experiment with each client.”) Massage into hair and then, hands off! “The moisture in the products will encourage a controlled and consistent curl formation,” says Thom, “and tame the frizz. So tell the guy to leave it alone once it’s dry to avoid disturbing the curl.”

the rocker-with-

long-locks finish

(John Mayer, Ryan Eggold, Michael Steger, Rod Stewart, the Rolling Stones)Styles come and go but some guys will never part with their rocker locks. Whether he opts for a ‘70s glam effect or a more tousled and casual effect, it’s wise to break out the brush and blow dryer, says Thom, to help longer hair take shape. He tells guys to apply a bit of straightening gel (if hair is curly) or mousse (if it’s fine) to damp strands and then use a blow dryer and a round brush, directing strands toward the face. When hair is dry, he shows them how to take a nickel-sized dab of pomade, work it into hands and pinch it into top sections to prevent strands from looking too fluffy. “Then I have them go back and massage the pomade through,” he says. Critical tip? Go easy on the goop! Apply product sparingly—it’s easier to add more than to remove too much. And if the guy does go overboard on pomade or wax, a little dry shampoo or powder will soak up the excess.

the faux hawk

finish (Ryan Seacrest)All of the action takes place after the hair is shampooed and dry with this look. Select a strong-hold pomade, one that will make the hair stiff but not sticky. “I prefer a pomade to a gel,” Thom notes, “because gels can make the hair too sharp.” Then, working from the back, and from the sides, get your hands in there and firmly direct all of the hair upward. Finally, use your fingers to pinch the tips of the faux-hawk lengths to create little spikes.

boys and curlsHelp your guys sport their loopy locks with pride, and avoid hair ‘fro-stration.Curls have come a long way. Thanks to clever cutting techniques, an array of curl-friendly care and styling products and even a few tricks from the chemistry department, Thom keeps his curly clients on the path to cool style.

thom priano

the kindest cuts for curlEvery curly head is different, says Thom, so watch curls carefully and work with them as you cut. If the hair is extremely frizzy or kinky, he opts to cut it dry, so that he can see it take shape as he sculpts. “If it’s a looser, more manageable curl,” he says, “I’ll start cutting it damp and keep going as it dries, watching the curls form and shaping them accordingly.”

If your guy is a zero-maintenance type who has no interest in wrangling his curls each morning (ie: most NBA players) grab your clipper, pop on the number one blade and buzz it to the scalp. If he can manage a bit of hair management, scissor it to an easy-care two inch length, perhaps with tighter sides, a la Orlando Bloom. If he’s up for a styling commitment, give him a longer look with loose, tousled curls by creating the outline with blunt cutting, and then notching into the tips (no higher than ¼ inch) of the curls to encourage gentle unfurling. Ditto for the long-hair, Russell Brand types. If your guy’s strands are on the skinny side, though, skip the snipping into the ends. “Stick to blunt cutting if the hair is thinning,” says Thom. “Don’t cut into the curl at all.”

better curls through chemistryIf your curly/kinky client wants a little help in the control department, try easing the texture with a relaxer. With guys, says Thom, it’s a quick on and off—process just long enough to relax the curl slightly but maintain movement. Many guys are also embracing keratin smoothing treatments

to take their curls down a notch. “We have one client at the salon with shoulder length hair and he loves the service,” says Thom. “Another one wears his hair short on the sides and longer on top and he has it done on the longer sections. It’s quick—it takes less than an hour.”

product is mandatory, not optional“Using the right products is the only way you are going to get a beautiful curl,” Thom declares. “Otherwise, it’s the ‘60s all over again—the hair will be a big ball of fuzz!”

Thom loves creamy shampoos and leave-in conditioners for guys—because, he says, “you can never over-condition frizzy hair.” If curl is tight, apply styling cream or oil to damp hair. Position the curls with fingertips and let strands air dry. If the natural curl is softer, opt for a lighter styling cream and maybe a couple of drops of serum on the ends. “Once the hair is dry,” says Thom, “tell your client never to touch it again. Anytime you disturb curl, you get a mess. If he does disrupt the outside layer, show him how to put some cream or serum in his hands and crunch it into the ends.”

Finally, remember, every head of curls is completely different, so your guys might need to experiment with various styling cocktails until they find the perfect recipe!

Dry cutting is the best way to shape extremely curly textures.

Cropped curls are manageable curls. Notch curl tips for better curl flow. For easy, tousled style, work cream or oil into damp hair, finger style and don’t touch it again!

Orlando BloomWill.I.Am Russell Brand Eric Dane

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bye-bye bieberit’s time to groom your guysFor some time now, fashion-savvy males have been flocking to their stylists and demanding the shaggy, eye-grazing shape made popular by ‘tween heartthrob Justin Bieber. Now, declares grooming expert Thom Priano, get ready for the Bieber backlash. “It’s time to grow up,” Thom says, “and get that hair up and off of the face. The result is so much more adult and sexier.”Young celebs like Zac Efron and Daniel Radcliffe have already gotten the memo—they’ve snipped their little-boy mops into structured, tapered cuts that intensify their masculinity by accentuating cheekbones and jawlines. What makes these groomed shapes modern, says Thom, are the slightly disheveled, texturized front and crown lengths. “These cuts also look great with a crisp, smooth finish,” Thom notes.

thom priano

the anti-bieber cutTurn to classic barbering techniques like clipper cutting or scissor-over-comb to keep the back and sides close, says Thom. Top lengths should be no more than two or three inches on top and as short as an inch in front. If the client wants to retain a bit of length and permimeter texture—like David Beckham or New England quarterback Tom Brady—cut with scissors rather than scissor-over-comb or clippers. Texturize top lengths with scissor tips or thinning shears.

color trendsThese new cuts look great with subtle highlights, says Thom, especially if the guy has a medium-brown base. Avoid chunky sections—instead, create extremely fine foil weaves and place them throughout the lengths. Work on damp hair to help keep foils in place. Lift with color, not bleach, to avoid the need to tone. Use a permanent shade that is two levels lighter than the base to produce a subtle, one-level lift without visible regrowth.

style pointsDepending upon the hair type, Thom usually finishes these looks like this:

1. Using just the hands, remove all moisture with a blow dryer, directing hair upward and away from the face.

2. Apply a small amount of malleable pomade to lengths and finger-style.

If the client has a strong, forward growth pattern, apply a firm-hold gel to damp strands, comb hair straight back and air dry or dry with heat. Break up top lengths with your fingers and work in a bit of pomade to add shine and maintain separation. Finally, if the natural texture is frizzy or super-curly, a keratin smoothing treatment can provide control.

now

then thenthen

nownow

New York Jets Quarterback Mark Sanchez traded his floppy curls for crisp grooming.

Zac Efron’s makeover was uplifting…and shifted his appeal from ‘tweens to adults.

Daniel Radcliffe left Harry Potter—and Harry’s kiddie cut—behind.

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what’s in thom’s kit?22 Indispensable Tools and Products for On-The-Set GroomingWhether he’s grooming J. Edgar’s Miles Fisher for a session for GQ or working on the Ralph Lauren Black Label campaign, Thom makes like a Boy Scout—always prepared. That means stocking his kit with the tools and products he knows will never fail him, and having the right aids on hand for every possible hair type and assignment. “My kit is always changing,” Thom reveals, “because you have to keep testing new things.” Right now, Thom has zeroed in on these items as his must-haves on the set, and tells us why.

thom priano

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Nic shears and thinning shears,

five inches

“When I started my career I worked with smaller shears. Ultimately I’ve discovered that longer blades give me more precise control.”

Feather Razor

“I’m never without a razor and this one performs.”

Oster Classic 76 Clippers

“It comes with interchangeable blades from 000 to 3.75. I feel that these blades provide the cleanest cut.”

Oster Cool Vibes Clippers

“I use this with the clip-on guard for clean-up and for blending the ‘in-between’ lengths I can’t get to with the Classic 76.”

Andis T-Edjer

“I use this to edge the hairline and cut designs in the hair.”

Babyliss Pro Forfex Deluxe

Finishing Trimmer

“It’s pencil thin and perfect for cleaning up neck hair and rogue facial hairs.”

Twin Turbo 3200 Ceramic Ionic

Blow Dryer With Diffuser

Attachment

“It’s 1800 watts, so it dries the hair quickly.”

ADST Mini Ceramic Flat Iron

“Sometimes you need to quickly smooth certain sections of hair.”

Champion Hard Rubber 16 Inch

Comb, Fanike Wide Tooth Comb

and Mason Pearson Brush

“The first one is my cutting comb, the other two are indispensable for styling.”

Water Bottle

“Might be the most important of all! It’s for wetting down the hair for a haircut. Plus I’ll often skip product and just spritz the hair with water to restyle.”

Garren New York Design Spray

Tonic

“This is always my first choice. I use it on everyone—men and women. It contains no alcohol, it promotes shine, it gives body and control. It’s great for setting, blow drying or drying the hair naturally.”

Supremo Magic Move

“This Japanese pomade comes in Light, Soft and Hard. I can use it all day on the set and it never builds up.”

Remino Dry Wax Soft #4 For Real

“This is another Japanese product—I use it for shine. It doesn’t give much hold.”

Rene Furterer Styling Wax

“My new favorite! I use it on my own hair—it provides great control and shine.”

Schwarzkopf OSIS+ Dust It

Mattifying Powder

“Another new product that I love. It absorbs the excess if there is build-up at the end of the day. I sprinkle it into my hands and work it in—it revives droopy hair.”

Garren New York Styling Crème,

Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling

Cream, Kérastase Lumiere

Nutri-Sculpt

“All three are great for adding moisture to dry hair, and for curl definition and taming flyaways.”

L’Oreal Elnett Hairspray

“Yes, this hairspray Hall of Famer is even great for guys. It’s the best because it’s dry, not wet, so once I apply it, I can comb through it and it’s never sticky.”

Products

Tools

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gangster chicthom priano

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The Hottest Men’s Cut of the Season

When Boardwalk Empire debuted on HBO, aficionados buzzed about the show’s unblinking violence and Prohibition-era chic looks. One of the standout characters was Michael Pitt’s Jimmy Darmody, the doomed heir and war hero who met an untimely end at the conclusion of Season Two. But Jimmy’s haircut—buzzed short on the sides, left long on top and waxed to a high shine—continues to build momentum as the hottest men’s cut to emerge for many seasons.

“I love this retro modern gangster cut!” declares Thom. “It’s an evolution of the faux hawk, really. We started shaving off the sides and leaving a thicker, longer top area and this is what developed.”

In addition to the Boardwalk Empire gun-runners and speakeasy proprietors, variations of the cut are popping up on fashion runways worldwide. “All the guys on the runways are wearing this cut, or some sort of adaptation,” agrees Thom.

The top section is where the “personality” of the wearer and the vision of the stylist comes in—it can be anywhere from an inch to five inches long. The section can be swept back or styled to flop over one eye. For an avant garde finish, says Thom, groom the hair so that it’s shiny and slightly wet looking. He likes Rene Furterer Styling Wax because it promotes a thick, glossy texture that lasts all day. For a more conservative finish, style the lengths with a formula like Supremo Magic Move or American Crew Defining Paste, which offers medium hold and minimal shine.

“It’s fun to play with color with this cut, too,” says Thom. “Create a lighter top section for dramatic contrast.”

“It’s a great cut,” he concludes, “because it works for everyone if they’re daring enough to do it. And it can be adapted into a more conservative version if they’re not!”

Here’s how Thom does the disconnected haircut:1. Create a v-shaped top section from the middle

of the brow or the recession point back to the top of the occipital and clip it away.

2. Using a clipper and #2 guard attachment, clip the side and back sections.

3. Switch to a #1 guard and blend the nape and side sections into the #2 areas to produce a tapered fade.

4. With an edger, edge the sides and back to create a crisp, tailored line.

5. Release the top section. Part the hair down the center, as if you are going to cut a bob.

6. Hold subsections perpendicular to the head to avoid layering and to limit graduation and cut to the desired (longer) length. For shorter lengths, create a design line around the head. Comb the front section forward, create the desired length, then work back to the crown, blending the front and back design lines.

gangster chic cut how-to

Actor Michael Penn’s Prohibition-style cut is the epitome of gangster chic.

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ine The style evolved to a crisper and more groomed version

on the Versace Men runway in Milan this season.

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thom priano

the fab fourModern methods for a quartet of iconic men’s hairstyles

Buttoned-up or Bohemian? Military crisp or adorably adolescent? Most guys fall into one of these four style categories, and each category embraces a signature haircut. No matter how unstudied a guy’s overall look may be, says men’s style expert Thom Priano, it’s important to execute each cut correctly, and make sure to update the traditional look with the right details and finishing.

G.I. Joe

the shape: High and tight, slightly disconnected.

the cut: Crop the sides and back, up to the recession point and crown, using an Oster clipper with a #1 guard. Switch to a #2 or #3 guard for the top section, depending on desired length.

the finish: Polish all strands with a light pomade or texturizing formula.

thom says: “In order to create any man’s cut that is fitted to the head, it’s essential to own a clipper with all of the attachments in order to get the desired sections as close to the head as necessary. My favorite at the moment is the Oster Turbo 77.”

the modern twist: A visible line of demarcation between the cropped sides and top lengths.

Schoolboy Swagger

the shape: Well-tailored side and back sections with a boyish, eye-grazing fringe.

the cut: Create the desired length on the sides and back with a #4 or #5 clipper guard. Direct the top section forward and create the design line with shears, blending the lengths with the side. The fringe should be cut in a slight V-shape, with the longest point in the center. Lift a vertical section from the longest point to the crown and snip into the tips. Work to each side in this manner, using the previously-cut section as a guide.

the finish: Work a light pomade with plenty of movement through the lengths.

the modern twist: Texturize the lengths so that they don’t appear heavy or solid.

Classic

The shape: Sides, back and top are evenly balanced with a rounded design line.

The cut: Create the side and back lengths with an Oster clipper and a #5 guard. Direct the top lengths forward and create a rounded fringe section. Lift the center section straight up and create the desired length by snipping the ends with the tips of the scissors. Work to each side in this manner, using each previous section as a guide.

The finish: Mist damp hair with setting spray, create a side part and allow strands to dry until they’re firm. Soften with a brush, add a bit of pomade to the top and comb or finger-style into the desired shape.

The modern twist: Spike the lengths with deep notch cutting to increase the texture in the top section.

Bohemian Shag

the shape: Long and layered

the cut: When men’s hair is long it should be layered in the same manner as a woman’s layered cut. “I like the shortest layer to hit just below the eye,” says Thom, “and the lengths can extend from the chin to the top of the shoulder.”

the finish: Avoid puffy, blow-dried looks. Opt for “day old” textures, created with pomade and styled close to the head.

the modern twist: Facial hair—whether it’s a rugged stubble or a full beard—creates the modern, masculine, rebel vibe.

Adam Levine

Daniel Radcliffe Zac Efron Chris Hemsworth

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hair rules for guy clientsAvoiding “trunk neck” and other strategies for

stellar service

In the chair and at home, there are many ways to elevate your service and your guy’s style I.Q. Here are 10 of Thom’s smart rules for better men’s business and better men’s design.

Practice Product Portion Control

It’s important to use a great grooming product to give your guy polish, but start slow—you can always add more. “If the hair doesn’t move within 10 or 15 minutes after it’s dry,” says Thom, “you’re using too much product, unless you’re going for a stiffly gelled look.” And be sure to demonstrate the correct amount to your client. “Put it right into his hand,” Thom suggests, “so he can see precisely how much to apply.”

Earn Brow-nie Points

Proper brow grooming is an essential part of any men’s service. “I ask my clients to refrain from using brow clippers,” says Thom. “These tools take the hair so short it looks like a beard! I also discourage them from letting their wives or girlfriends shape their brows because they tend to create a shape that is too feminine.” Instead, simply comb brows in the natural growth direction and trim the longer ends to maintain a natural, masculine shape.

Stay High and Dry

If a client has thinning hair, stick to dry finishing products. “Wet products—like greasy pomades—tend to separate strands and reveal the scalp,” Thom points out. “Dryer products help make hair look thicker.”

Conduct Shampoo Class

Most guys dump on the shampoo in the shower each morning and go at it. But manhandling and scratching can damage the root and irritate the scalp. Instead, demonstrate a gentle massage technique using the pads of the fingers instead of fingernails. It’s a kinder, gentler strategy for hair and scalp.

Avoid “Trunk Neck”

If a guy has a large, thick neck, a solid, blunt nape line will accentuate the girth. Instead, use clippers with a #1 guard to etch in a line that follows and blends the shape of the natural hairline.

Lock In The Next Visit

Few guys are big on making plans—and that includes haircuts. As a result, a cut that should be refreshed every four weeks can easily become neglected for months. “Try to get him to prebook before he leaves,” advises Thom. “If that doesn’t work, give him a call or send a text or email after three weeks with a friendly reminder.” If all else fails, contact his wife and ask her to send him in.

Now Ear This

Don’t remove the cape until you’ve trimmed those little ear and nose sprouts for a perfect finish. Thom gets the job done with an Oster’s “The Petite” O’Baby Clipper and tries to convince his guys to pick up a trimming tool to use at home, too.

Improve His Strokes

Most guys are pretty deft with house painting brushes, but hair brushes? Not so much. “Guys generally don’t brush their hair at all,” comments Thom, “but a session with a boar bristle brush before bed each night is a great way to massage the scalp and bring oil through to the ends so that the hair doesn’t dry out.”

Towel Dry, Then Apply

Water dilutes vinegar, scotch…and styling products. To make sure your gels, creams and lotions are working at full strength, towel or rough-dry strands before applying. “Every application is different,” Thom notes, “so read the manufacturer’s instructions for each product.”

Face Reality

There are six to nine face shapes, which means that one haircut does not fit all. “Study each face shape carefully,” advises Thom, “and design the cut and facial hair accordingly. For example, leaving hair on the forehead or in back can slim a full face, as can longer sideburns. And a beard is a great way to reduce a double chin!”

Give guys a grooming product demo after the cut to ensure proper usage and application.

Hair by Thom Priano For Garren New York

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design theoryCustom strategies that make the cut

When a guy settles into your chair, it’s tempting to give him the old snip-and-clip haircut-by-the-numbers. Resist the temptation! Because when it comes to men, one cut does not fit all! It’s important to assess a guy’s face shape and features, and then design your cut accordingly.

A bespoke approach to hair design pays off. Your guy may not understand exactly why he looks better than his buddies, but he will understand that you’re responsible—and that’s good enough for him!

Here’s a primer from Thom, groomer to the stars. (“Mr. Priano, Mr. Pitt is ready for you now!) He reveals the best design strategies for every facial shape. If you want to rule the men’s world, these are insights worth memorizing!

the square face

how do you know? The forehead and the jaw are the same width.

famous faces: David Beckham, Nick Lachey

design strategies: Keep the back short to accentuate the jaw, and leave the top a bit longer to soften the forehead.

the triangle face

how do you know? The forehead is considerably narrower than the jawline.

famous faces: Justin Timberlake, Ryan Gosling

design strategies: Style the hair away from the face to open up the forehead, and keep the hair fuller in the temple area to balance the narrowness.

the oval face

how do you know? This face shape is the ideal. Cheekbones are slightly wider than the forehead and jawline and slightly above the center of the face.

famous faces: Barry Watson, Jude Law

design strategies: Anything goes for this client, so play up his best feature—eyes, lips, etc.—with your design decisions.

David Beckham

Justin Timberlake

Nick Lachey

Ryan Gosling

Jude Law

Barry Watson

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the round face

how do you know? The widest part of a round face is straight across the cheekbones, and this facial shape is as long as it is wide.

famous faces: Elijah Wood, Jack Black

design strategies: Create a side part with a fringe and leave the hair a bit longer to break up the round shape. Also, encourage your client to work with facial hair if possible. Longer sideburns or a beard will soften the sphere.

the heart-shaped face

how do you know? The heart is the opposite of the triangle—the forehead is wider and the face comes to a point at the chin.

famous faces: Pete Wentz, David Cook

design strategies: Minimize the width at the forehead with a soft fringe. Consider a goatee to broaden the chin.

the oblong face

how do you know? This face shape is longer than it is wide.

famous faces: Kiefer Sutherland, Prince Charles

design strategies: Create a low side part and leave some fullness on the sides to create the illusion of width.

…if the nose is large: “Personally I don’t think a large nose is a flaw,” remarks Thom, “so I generally don’t try to camouflage the feature. But if a guy is self-conscious about his nose, keep the hair a bit longer and style it off of the face.”

…if the ears are large: “Let the hair grow over the tips of the ears and use it to fill in the area just behind the ears. This creates a shadow effect and the eye sees more of the hair and less of the ear.”

…if the chin is soft: “I always recommend facial hair for these clients,” says Thom. “You can sculpt it into any shape to balance or correct a soft chin. Sideburns are also effective ways to rebalance a soft chin.”

designing men More design secrets, feature by feature.

Kiefer Sutherland

Prince Charles

Pete Wentz

David Cook

Jack Black

Elijah Wood

photography: Carolyn Contino/BEImages (Kiefer Sutherland); Willi Schneider/Rex USA/BEImages (Prince Charles); Jim Smeal/BEImages (Pete Wentz); Charles Sykes/Rex USA/BEImages (David Cook); Joseph Kerlakian/Rex/Rex USA/BEImages (Elijah Wood); Peter Brooker /Rex USA/BEImages (Jack Black); Karl Prouse/Catwalking (Versace); Craig McDean for Interview (Michael Pitt); Giuseppe Cacace (Versace)

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thom priano2013 men’s trends:the long and short of it

short: controlled texture

Skinned is no longer in. Short hair is a bit longer right now, but still cropped enough to control unruly textures. To control the curls of Justin Timberlake, Thom used Oster Clippers with a #3 guard on the sides and in back, blending into a two-inch top section, which was cut with scissors. He controls singer Eli Lieb’s curls with a keratin straightening treatment, and cuts the sides and back with a #4 guard and the 3-inch lengths with scissors. Justin’s hair is “set” with a combination of setting gel and mousse, then finished with pomade once it dries. Eli’s finish begins with a rough—dry with the blow dryer, followed by a firm molding paste on the top sections to create the spiky texture.

Guys generally embrace a signature length for their hair—whether it’s long and lusty or clipped and no-nonsense. But even though he may not be open to a length adjustment, it’s important to keep your guy’s shape and style current. Here, Thom identifies the top trends for short, medium and long lengths, and illustrates his points with images from his recent projects.

long: rough and tumble

“ Long hair is a signature for certain guys,” Thom observes. “They like the fact that it says, ‘I don’t really care about my hair,’ when in fact they really do!” Thom was booked to groom Brad Pitt for the current Chanel campaign and Chris Hemsworth for GQ. Here are his tips for guys who go to great lengths:

· Layer the hair to enhance the face shape. To make layers look masculine, cut deeply into the sections to create a chunky, rough texture.

· Never blow-dry long hair—it will look fluffy and feminine. Instead, towel dry and then apply styling crème or pomade to enhance and define the texture.

· It’s a fine line between groomed and greasy, so don’t go overboard on the styling products or locks can go limp. Start with a dime-sized amount of product, and add more if necessary.

· Once the hair is more than a couple of inches past the shoulders, it’s time for a trim. Any longer and it loses its shape and movement.

Chris Hemsworth

medium: up and away

Hello eyes! After several years of brow-grazing fringes, medium lengths are heading up and back. “Directing the hair off of the face is very flattering to the bone structure,” Thom comments. (It certainly suits Nacho, Jake and the James Dean lookalike in the Acqua Di Gio campaign!)

The cuT: All of these cuts were done with 5- to 6-inch scissors. Sides are about an inch and the top sections are no longer than two inches. Follow the shape of the head as you cut to produce a squared-off shape.

The FINISh: Apply mousse or styling spray to damp hair, comb into place and air dry. emulsify a bit of dry or light, waxy pomade between hands and work through the top, back and sides to create texture and shine.

Brad Pitt

Jake Gyllenhall

Justin Timberlake

Eli Lieb

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how to groom the groom

Brides and their bridesmaids are accustomed to months of pre-wedding planning and pampering—they plan their updos, plot out their wedding day haircolor, pick out their nuptial nail color—all to ensure head-to-toe perfection when they walk down the aisle. As for their guys? They might remember to stop off for a haircut on the day of the wedding, but often that’s as far as his wedding day grooming goes.

Big mistake, believes Thom. While the bride is certainly the one in the spotlight all day, her guy is right by her side. As a result, he’s center stage, too. So it’s up to stylists to educate their grooms-to-be on the importance of doing some pre-wedding planning of their own. Here are Thom’s tips for producing a well-groomed groom.

tell him, and show him. If your groom doesn’t think that his wedding day look is important, do him a favor and tell him otherwise. He’ll thank you for it when he sees his smart self in all of his wedding photos. Better yet, show him. Many salons put together look books for brides, says Thom, but it’s also a great idea to assemble a portfolio of men’s looks. Find photos of good looking grooms at elegant weddings to demonstrate the importance of looking smart and polished at the altar.

make it a grooming party. Stylists should always provide “the extras” when doing men’s haircuts, says Thom, and that includes grooming facial hair, nose hair and ear hair, and shaping the brows. If that’s not the case when you work with male clients, make a point of doing so when you’re prepping the groom. Better yet, says Thom, bring in the best man and the ushers, too, and give them all the royal treatment. “Guys are often more comfortable trying new things when they’re with their buddies,” Thom points out. Who knows? They may even be willing to go for more grooming—manicures, pedicures, facials, massage…the works! “And don’t leave it until the morning of the wedding,” Thom advises. “He’ll need to look good for the rehearsal dinner and all of the other pre-wedding events, too.”

steer him to a classic cut. His wedding day is not the time to let his freak flag fly. That mullet or Mohawk will not look cool when he looks at his wedding pictures 20 years from now. “There are two classic options for a wedding day haircut,” Thom believes. “A cropped look, a la Justin Timberlake, or a slightly longer look like the one sported recently by Bradley Cooper.” For the short cut, use a number four clipper to cut the nape and sides and leave 1½ to 2 inches on top. Use a scissor-over-comb technique to blend the lengths. Blending is critical when it comes to the longer version too. Thom leaves the back and sides an inch or two longer than the shorter crop, and leaves up to four inches on top. To finish the short cut, apply styling gel to damp hair and once it’s dry, break it up with a touchable pomade and your hands. For the longer version, you’ll just need the pomade. “It’s really important to use a product you can move your hands through,” says Thom. “You want the bride to be able to run her fingers through her new husband’s hair!”

smart strategies when

guys get hitched

Justin Timberlake’s classic crop will wear well in the wedding album for years to come.

Control longer lengths like Bradley Cooper’s with a flexible styling pomade.